Prior to the start of my one month Southeast Asia trip, I had researched many of the places I would be visiting to figure out what sort of surprises, cultural and otherwise, that I would need to be cognizant of. One recurring theme was the air pollution. As I stumbled on to the humid Taipei International Airport tarmac, I knew that I would have to brace myself for thick smog and eye-burning pollutants. After all, The People’s Republic of China and the Republic of China are home to sixteen of the world’s twenty most polluted cities.
But I wasn’t ready for it. Having spent many of my formative years in sparsely populated areas of Canada, I’ve grown quite accustomed to clear blue skies and clean mountain air. In a recent controversial (and censored) report, the World Bank estimated that over 750,000 people die prematurely every year from pollution-related disease. Upon alighting from the plane, I was certain that I would become number 750,001. It is painfully apparent to all visitors that rapid economic development comes with a serious price tag.
After spending a day recovering from jet lag and smog-induced coughing, I took to the chaotic city streets. Taipei has the most efficient subway system that I have ever seen, with enormous numbers of people shuttled to dozens of points around the city at most hours of the day and night. Fares for tourists amount to about 40p for mid-range distances – hardly excessive, especially given the convenience and rapidness of the trains. Plus, handy visitor cards, similar to the ubiquitous London Tube Oyster cards, are also available.
My first stop was the famous Taipei 101 tower, a 106 floor behemoth that looms large over the Taipei skyline. Until it was unseated by the ridiculously enormous Burj Khalifa in Dubai, Taipei 101 held the crown for the highest building in the world with occupied floors. Visitors to the downstairs cafeteria can find a startling array of different food choices, ranging from the tasty (revolving Japanese sushi buffets) to the obvious (McDonald’s) to the slightly unusual (whole birds boiled before your eyes, anyone?). The yuppie crowd will enjoy the ultra-modern shopping store, with organic Japanese Fuji apples and specialty vegetables.
The next stop was the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Dedicated to the memory of the famous first President of the Republic of China, it boasts a colossal central plaza surrounded by themed buildings, designed in the traditional Chinese architectural style. Although feelings in Taiwan towards Kai-shek remained mixed, one cannot help but be impressed by the grandiosity of this tribute to his legacy. The area also holds some neat statues, libraries, and museums, and Taipei is full of richly adorned temples and museums, most of which are also accessible via the metro system.
I concluded my day with a stopover at one of the many famous night markets. The biggest one is Shilin, where one can pick up virtually anything – that is, if you are not overwhelmed by the cornucopia of different smells that emanate from every corner of the place. Dog lovers will be particularly interested in the puppy section, while food aficionados will be taken with the assortment of vegetables, fruits, and sweet breads. My friends and I even tried our hand at some of the Chinese fair games, with mixed results.
Taipei still feels like a land of opportunity. Its future, however, remains unclear. The increasingly powerful People Republic of China insists that Taiwan is part of the bigger mainland and Taiwan’s international status remains ambiguous. However, at the moment it is a prosperous and safe nation, blessed with some of the friendliest people I have ever met. Plus, for the (many) budget-conscious travelers out there, the major city of Taipei has the benefit of being reasonably priced and accessible. Despite my gripes about air pollution, it is still a fascinating and immersive place.
