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Fashion is intertwined with and inseparable from the culture and the history of Italy. It mirrors the most turbulent times the country faced. But fashion also helped Italy to move past its difficulties, as it went on an exciting, innovative journey. The unique extravagance of Italian fashion drew the rest of the world in. Through “The Glamour of Italian Fashion” exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, you can watch the evolution of it from fascism until now and begin to comprehend its impact on the world.
The exhibition starts by recounting how the fascist government attempted to construct a sense of nationhood. The National Fashion Board regulated production and produced the “Tortonese”, displayed in an uninspiring blue at the start of the exhibition. This ladies’ suit consisted of a broad shouldered jacket and a pleated skirt. The waist is barely cinched and is a far cry from drama of Dolce and Gabbana alta moda couture. So, how did Italy make this transition?
Post-war, Italy was in disarray. Cities were thin and millions worked as farm laborers. Under the US Marshall Plan, factories were retooled and Italian fashion began to feed the hunger for glamour.
Giovanni Battista Giorgini is the man who truly represents the return to luxury. On the 12th of February 1951, in Sala Bianca, he showcased the “First Italian High Fashion Show”. From that February onwards, Giovanni drew on the Italian renaissance and threw events lasting several days, entertaining international buyers with elaborate dinners and balls. Though later designers went on to compete with Giovanni, he pioneered the identity of Italian fashion.
There is a sharp contrast between the dresses displayed at the exhibition, those Giovanni showcased are displayed shortly after we see the Tortonese. It is a reflection of how fashion helped to transform Italy. The elegant tailoring, intricate embroidery and cascading waves of chiffon and lace is a world away from the stiff and square fascist suit. It set the tone of how, for the next 60 years, Italian designers would continue to make waves in fashion industry. It sets the backdrop for old Hollywood, well-dressed Presidents and decorated film star royalty.
The centrepiece of the exhibition has to be Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari “Emerald Suite”, the famous jewelry set given to her by Richard Burton. It truly represents both the extravagance and the eminence of Italian fashion and resonates with you throughout the rest of the exhibition.
A real treat comes towards the end of the visit; a room full of more modern Italian haute couture! Whilst the silhouettes have changed and hem lines have become a bit more daring, the attention to detail remains the same. Each piece still tells its own fascinating story. But for how long can Italian designers continue to indulge their creativity with luxury? Since the political scandal in 2000, economic tensions and immigration issues have threatened stability. Textile production and its related industries are thinning and Italy’s premium fashion houses are continuously foreign owned. Andrea Missoni calls for greater government support so the fashion industry can continue to flourish, and benefit the country the way it did post World War II.
You will take away from this exhibition an appreciation for the sheer power of Italian taste. Plus, it gives you an excuse to look at really pretty dresses and pretend to be cultured!
The Glamour of Italian Fashion Exhibition spans the stylish country’s history from 1945 through to 2014.
The exhibition is open until 27th July 2014 and costs just £9.20 for students.
Great for: Anyone who loves window shopping!
