★★★★☆
Well, that’s it, I’m in love. It is time for me to throw out my Pamela Anderson posters, move out of my parents’ basement, and buy a ring – just as soon as I figure out how to propose to a cellar room. I try so earnestly to be as pissy and bitchy about the bars I review as I am about my mother’s cooking, but Univ has penetrated my heart like Joseph Gordon-Levitt holding a boom box, climbing up my fire escape. Not that he’d even need to be in the fire escape – Univ’s bar even has outdoor seating for smokers! Univ’s is everything a college bar should be and much, much more.
Found easily in the centre of the college and hidden underground, it has an almost speakeasy feel, though lacks sharply dressed gangsters and an oppressive cloud of cigarette smoke. A small, scruffy staircase opens out into a wide and attractively decorated bar. The dominant arches and blue and grey wall colours might appear dingy to some, but just seemed edgy as fuck to me. Irresistably comfy fitted sofas, flat-screen TVs and big blackboards chalked with (bestill my heart!) drinks deals line the walls. Many small tables tactically scattered ensure ample seating on one side, and having had many experiences of awkwardly hovering near-ish a bar counter with aching legs, I appreciate this. For those less grumpy, table football, darts and pool are neatly placed on the other side. The bar itself is a beautifully curved and finished wood. This is certainly the best designed college bar I’ve had the pleasure of visiting, though I must admit it was a little draughty. It was also disappointingly empty, but being Tuesday of 0th Week we’ll have to give them the benefit of the doubt.
Two lagers and one cider are offered on tap, but with many more bottled choices behind the bar. It stocks a spirit collection of about average size, yet is greatly improved by its slightly alternative choices: Sailor Jerry’s rather than just Captain Morgan’s, for example. Their signature drink, the University College Cocktail, is a sweet, refreshing and, most importantly, strong mix impressively designed to sport the Univ colours of blue and yellow. Liquid dispersion is always a nice touch. The prices were slightly more than average across the board, and the signature drink was actually over £4, which might prove quite a strain on Univ regulars, but for me was entirely tolerable in the context of the service and atmosphere offered up.
To point out the most pedantic and unimportant of flaws – as that’s all there are – the music was somewhat louder than the situation warranted, and my spirit mixer tasted ever so slightly metallic. Despite these small imperfections, Univ earned my upmost respect. I will be sneaking in again, and I recommend you all do the same. When you consider the central location, it makes it perfect for a rowdy predrinks. Other bars take note: this is how it’s done.
