Cherwell Food attended the opening of Dishoom’s first restaurant in Oxford: a Permit Room based on those in Bombay restaurants where it is legal to serve alcohol. An all-day cafe, they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner: with plenty of unique cocktails at the bar. Dishoom already has two of these scattered across the UK, including in Cambridge(hosting a Permit Room is the only respect Oxford has been second to Cambridge in). We were delighted to attend their Press Night, where we sampled an expansive range of their light bites, unique cocktails and a generous variety of their main lunch and dinner menu.
We arrived to a completely packed bar: incense at the door brightened the room and we were faced immediately with a selection of drinks. The pink pepper pineapple soda had a bit of tang that didn’t overwhelm, and the orange wine margarita was an absolute knockout. It took us a while to even fully process the ambiance of the restaurant. With peppy instrumental music and the chatter of the customers, the dim lighting with warm lamps made it feel more akin to a living room than a venue in the middle of bustling Oxford. We sat next to a jukebox offering guests the opportunity to select music to play after 5pm and were frequented by friendly staff offering appetizers.
We’d heard good things about the spinach chaat and were not disappointed. Our waiter said that it was rare for restaurants to serve the delicacy owing to the effort and precision required to make every leaf crispy. The pomegranate added freshness to the crisp of the spinach, and the yogurt sauce and chutney made the serving rich and indulgent. It was honestly to die for and we kept going back for more tasters. Other vegetarian highlights were the jackfruit puff, which we liked more than the chicken equivalent because of its pulled pork-like texture, and the prawn recheado, which Maddie was a massive fan of to say the least. The prawn was tender and the chili garlic masala added a kick without overpowering the prawn.
Our mains were equally as flavorful, with portions large enough to fill you up even without rice or naan on the side. For a table of four, we had the black daal, chicken ruby, prawn moilee, jackfruit berry pulao, and chicken tandoori special, with broccoli and both plain and garlic naan on the side. The serves were generous and the only thing starved was our table – of space to fit the dishes. We began with the jackfruit berry pulao consisting of jackfruit hidden under a pile of saffron-coated rice. We enjoyed the pulao both on its own and with a curry; the pomegranate seeds were crunchy and juicy and the jaggery added a tad bit of sweetness that cut across the spices. The chicken in the chicken ruby was fork tender, and covered with the glossy curry. You could never miss with it.
Our half chicken tandoori was supplemented by cucumber, tomato, lemon, and green chutney, but even alone, the chicken was flavorful enough. Some parts were slightly dry, but generally the chicken was good, and the dry bits went well with the chutney. The daal was a good source of protein without being meat, and certainly flavourful. The tomato flavor, though an undertone in the curry, prevented the spices from coming out as much, but we still had a touch of heat that came out when dipping a naan or garlic naan in it. Our table mates greatly enjoyed the prawn moilee, with the warmth of the tumeric offset by the runny coconut milk. It was more suited for a cold day than the warm restaurant, but paired with a refreshingly fruity rum kiwi colada shimmy, the curries were able to tone down the spice for those who can’t take the heat.
Dessert was unique: though we didn’t order mango lassi to drink, it existed in a soft serve ice cream form. There was not enough mango in the taste, but with the fennel on top, it otherwise was a refreshing take on a mango ice cream. But the dessert standout was the sweet malai toast. Dishoom’s take on the Indian comfort food made us salivate: the slight chewiness of the milk solids on crunchy toast was unique and certainly more balanced than expected.
Yet it wasn’t the food that stood out the most for us, but the atmosphere and community we were able to feel during the meal. We chatted with the Thakri cousins, two of Dishoom’s founders who took inspiration for the restaurant from their times in Bombay permit rooms. They told us about the history of permit rooms and their role since independence as a gathering place to drink alcohol as it slowly became permissible. Shamil, an Oxford PPE graduate himself, told us he saw similarities between a university student culture which brings peers together over good conversation and drinks, and the way Dishoom’s cocktails bring people together.
Sitting next to Shamil, Kavi, and their loved ones made us feel part of the Dishoom family; sharing plates and insights on life over various cocktails made four hours fly by and left us wanting more. We greatly enjoyed their company and felt that their hospitality showed even through the details within the restaurant: they debated and carefully selected things like the mini bottles and lime oil spritz for cocktails, and were proud of every design. The sense of family, care and warmth at the core of the Dishoom brand is completely at odds with sometimes impersonal experiences you’d expect at a restaurant chain.
Some highlights within the drinks menu were the spicy guava frosé, nonalcoholic lychee French ‘75, and the clarified mango lassi punch. Though a bit more expensive than college bars, there were truly unique cocktails. We were given a Crystal Mary, with tomato and jalapeño vodka. I loved it as it reminded me of a Bloody Mary without the horrific texture; Maddie couldn’t get over the fact that it was savory. I also loved the chai caffe martini, a warmer take on the espresso martini with extra banana flavor through the rum. We got to go behind the bar and shake/serve the martini ourselves, an electrifying experience where everyone cheered on the drink makers.
Overall, the night was just as warm and cozy as the food, with a twist uniquely Oxford. We’d go again 1000% — maybe to try their bacon naan roll for breakfast.
