An employee of Anna October shares what it’s like working for a luxury fashion brand and its approach to slow fashion.
With a punchy short bob and a swooping wide sleeved jumper, Anna arrived at the trendy French cafe in Tallinn which she had chosen for our interview. Anna is from Ukraine and has moved to Tallinn since the war, where I met her on my year abroad. There, she carries on working for the Ukrainian luxury fashion brand Anna October (named after the founder, a different Anna). This is a brand with a classic yet unique style, most famously embodied in its collection of impeccably cut, sensual satin dresses. So, I knew I had to interview her to find out more about this Ukrainian gem of a brand and its unique approaches to fashion.
How would you characterise the style of Anna October?
Anna October is vintage style adapted to modern life. Our garments are summery, elegant and simple. It’s very Great-Gatsby inspired and luxurious, but also very wearable.
Yes, I noticed that when I checked out the website, I felt like, unlike most luxury brands, I really wanted to wear all the clothes!
Yes, it’s supposed to be ready-to-wear. I remember I went to a fashion show of an Estonian designer once, and the pieces were sort of scary, like Halloween costumes! Anna October is much more minimalist. We also don’t do fashion shows. They’re very expensive and are more about prestige than anything else. Instead, we have showrooms where people can come and look at our designs.
What does the process of designing a collection consist of?
Well, the designers often go away and rest to have a think about the next collection, which has to consist of 60 pieces. They then turn the designs into wearable garments, so that they look good on a person. After the design stage, ‘constructors’ (a literal translation of the Russian term) come in to do try-ons with models, and then go away and make changes to cut, measurements or fabric. This is then done many times on models of different sizes to get the clothes absolutely right.
What is your role exactly in the company?
I manage sales and communication with clients. We have lots all over America and Europe, so it’s my job to negotiate a deal when they want to buy our products in bulk.
Why do you think American clients are so drawn to your brand?
Firstly, from a practical point of view, the clothes are mostly party wear for warm weather, which many Americans get to enjoy for much of the year, whereas people in Ukraine and other parts of Eastern Europe cannot! Secondly, the clothes are both extremely high quality but also sustainably made. There is also the political side that many clients want to support a small Eastern-European business.
What’s the most difficult thing about your job?
Having to manage so many different clients and problems is always a challenge. The negotiations can last from a few months to half a year. Learning skills in customer service also didn’t come naturally to me. I had to learn the American-style email-speak, using phrases like ‘I hope you have a nice day’. The phrase ‘I hope you have a nice day’ doesn’t sound as natural translated into Russian, so I had to learn to write emails in a more ‘American’ way to appeal more to American clients.
Can you tell me about the fabrics used in the clothes?
The majority of the fabrics used are deadstock, and many of the jumpers are hand-knitted with alpaca wool.
Do you think we’ve lost a sense of what is good quality?
Yes, although I think nowadays people are becoming more conscious of slow fashion and are trying to find sustainable pieces.
What are some ways we can identify the quality of clothes we’re buying then?
When we look for clothes, we should test that they feel pleasant to the touch. Then check the label: better materials are natural fibres like wool or alpaca. Then check to see if the sewing is high quality and long-lasting.
What are some ways you recommend the readers of Cherwell shop for quality garments second hand?
Lots of luxury brands have sample sales in London, where they sell samples of garments for reduced prices, as well as past collections archives. I also use Vestiaire Collective, an app selling second-hand clothing from luxury brands; there are some Anna October pieces on there!
Can you give us any previews of future designs?
Some of our new designs include black tops with gold embroidery on them. One idea in the making is a black backless dress with a gold flower detailing straight on to the back, reminiscent of the 90s Versace collections, championing black and gold in sensual silhouettes.
Thanks so much Anna, it’s great to hear your take on sustainable fashion and choosing clothing well.
Yes, we should choose clothes carefully, just like choosing a man!
