Wednesday, May 14, 2025
Blog Page 1197

6 songs to show you and your old mates still like each other

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You and your mates don’t see each other as much. You’ve changed. They’ve changed. Your collective memory of the single, unending Saturday night of your teenage years is something you cherish, but you can’t quite recapture the magic. Deep down you intuit that things will never be the same, that you’ll never again feel the sense of true belonging you felt as a seventeen year old, chinning Glens on a freezing street corner, talking about the time you almost got with Sharon from French.

But that intuition, which will prove ultimately to be correct, is something we’re all ignoring. So here are six songs to prove empirically that absolutely nothing has changed between you, Eric and Jenna, and you’re all still brilliant mates.

Which you definitely are. Brilliant, brilliant mates.

1. Call Me Maybe – Carly Rae Jepsen

 

This blast of childish joy was all that anyone listened to a couple of years ago. Of course, that was when Steve still called me to hang out. Steve, if you’re out there, call me? Please? 

2. Flourescent Adolescent – Arctic Monkeys

“Do you remember how we all used to wear those hilarious coloured jeans? And yellow hoodies from H & M?” Yes Dave, I do remember. Yet I cannot reclaim the moment. Just like the easy rapport we once had, it has been lost to the black wastes of time.

Sorry, what was that you were saying about political correctness having gone something or other? 

3. When You Were Young – The Killers

 

An absolute classic from the golden time when your mates were still actually your mates. Less well known is the follow-up to this, titled ‘Now You’re a Bit Older and I Pretend to Myself That I Like You So As To Preserve The Memory I Have Of My Teenage Years’.

 4. Too Late (To Apologise) – Timbaland (feat. One Republic)

 

It’s not too late to apologise for the time you called out one of your mates for saying something stupid, and they all agreed that ‘you’d changed’. But you are too proud to apologise. And what your mate said was really stupid. But there’s a big crew reunion coming up. What should you do? Well, play it cool and do some funny dancing. Why let on that you’re trying to convince yourself that you still know who you are? It will really bum everyone out.

5. That’s Not My Name – The Ting Tings

 

‘I remember back at home they called me Pintmaster Flash’. But you’re not Pintmaster Flash any more, are you? No, now you’re Tim from Hilda’s. Even your old friends don’t call you Pintmaster Flash now, and anyway you only see each other for an awkward drink once every two months. Say it to yourself, go on – ‘Pintmaster Flash’. Understand the extent of your deracination as the words turn to Pintmaster Ash in your mouth.

6. Teenage Dirtbag – Wheatus

 

When was the last time you saw Miranda? Or Alex? Dave’s having a kid, though it seems like only yesterday he was walking around telling girls to smell his finger. When you all meet up at the pub, this comes on, and the smiles that go round diffuse the tension between you all. But later on, in your sleep, you scream the chorus into the uncaring night. Soon you will wake in the grey dawn, too fearful to articulate what you already know, that you’ll never fit in anywhere again.

Happy listening!

In defence of ageing

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My grandparents are leaving the house. I watch them depart through the back door, sigh, and lean against the kitchen surface. The heating has been too high all day (even in a shirt, woolly jumper and jacket, my Grandpa remains cold). As I sigh, an intake of breath echoes mine just outside the door. It’s my brother’s girlfriend. I hear the words “there’s blood” and then suddenly all is consumed in a flurry. Eight pairs of hands blur. Instructions merge and deflect in this sudden vortex of hot flannels, cotton buds, torches, ice, and a white face.

Frozen, no emotion passes through my Grandmother’s swollen face for 25 minutes. Her lips are parted unnaturally, blood falling from her nose and mouth in silent steadiness. My Grandpa punctuates the chaos, “Well it’s confirmed. We’re old and decrepit. When we’re gone you’ll say the silly fools we are.”

I stretch my arms gently around his neck and verbally dismiss his fears, but the certainty is set. Set in the shake of his head and the stone of my Grandma’s face.  

Later, someone remarks that we forget what it is to be old. I certainly remain distracted by the condemnation my own generation faces. We are distorted. We dress incorrectly. We think we are immortal. We destroy our bodies. “Oh how reckless the youth are,” the TV screams. We’re told we have been anaesthetised. Our hearts chucked out, programmed to condemn poetry and seek debauchery.

But the stereotype of ‘the old’ is also opposed with its own intensity. Pre-emptive empathy stalks them. When my Grandpa stops in the street because he is out of breath, he huffs what breath he has at those who pause and check that he is alright. “I have every right to stop, I am absolutely fine,” he rants in his mind, as he self-righteously puffs out his (remaining) energy into asserting his healthy-absolutely-fine-and-not-needing-to-be-patronised chest.

This forced indignation arises too, most memorably, when an elderly couple check in at my job. The gentleman takes the appropriate form and I watch his hands shakily but stubbornly write his name. Each letter zig zags as it follows its curvature, as if a child were practising ‘fun’ handwriting. He gets to the trigger-point on the form at which I am meant to ask him for his card details.

Everything suddenly becomes very tense. He raises his voice in frustration, refusing to do such a thing. Myself, conscious of a boss who isn’t particularly fond of me, and who would certainly not be pleased if I failed to get the details, turn to persuasion. His voice rises, spittle collecting as his face begins to turn red. It transpires that an American company had asked for his details and subsequently stolen hundreds of pounds from him. “That sounds awful,” I sympathetically reply, “but we are merely a country pub. Honestly, we are not going to steal your money. It’s purely a …” I am interrupted. “Well. That’s what you claim! How do I know who you are or what you’ll do!”

Customers turn their heads, the chef peeks round the through-door. My lips quiver. Finally I manage to interrupt. I tell him that I will leave it for the moment. I quickly escort him to his room, help his wife up the stairs, and scarper. As I return, the chef beckons to me. I enter the kitchen and as he asks me whether I am alright, my tear ducts surprise me. I have had many obnoxious customers, many angry customers, many customers who believe that a fat wallet discounts the need for manners. But through all the experiences that hospitality happily provides, never have I cried. The combination of being both young and behind a counter provoked in him a real fear and suspicion of the world.

When did checking into an inn become such a torment? When does a fall become so serious?

When we are in a rush somewhere my friend will sometimes cry for us to slow down, unable to speed up her nervous feet. We laugh at this, and so does she. How foolish to be scared of the pavement and your own feet! But at an unknowable point our feet will pitter patter with that once mocked caution. We too will grey. 

It does not help that to articulate we must use ‘we’ and ‘they’. But we continue, as a generalisation, to treat the oldest generations as if they have somehow regressed back to infancy.

To borrow the words of the memorable Morrie Schwartz, “If you stayed at twenty-two, you’d always be as ignorant as you were at twenty-two. Ageing is not just decay, you know. It’s growth.”

Our aesthetics increasingly emphasise our age, and there is no denying that for some ageing involves mental deterioration. But there is a cliché that must be spoken more. Ageing isn’t just decaying, it brings wisdom too. 

Finland: putting the final touches on a radical curriculum

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Finland’s education system has been long held up as the textbook example for the rest of Europe. Its consistently high levels of attainment in maths, reading and science in the annual PISA rankings, following ‘radical’ educational policies, have made the country a Mecca for education experts and politicians alike. From free universal day-care for children up to five, fully subsidised meals for full-time students, no selection, very few private schools and no tuition fees, the commitment to equity alongside academic excellence has left onlookers marvelling at the system.

But in a controversial move, the Nordic nation is about to undertake its most radical overhaul yet: teaching by ‘phenomenon’ or topic rather than subject. Lessons in traditional subjects such as English Literature or Chemistry are already being phased out for late teens in Helsinki secondary schools. Instead, these students are being engaged in a new method of ‘phenomenon teaching’ of cross-subject topics. The idea is that core subjects such as geography, history and economics are taught through the prism of a relevant topic or phenomenon, such as the ‘European Union’, with the aim of providing more directly applicable skills and knowledge.

Despite reservations among some teachers, the early data indicates an improvement in pupil ‘outcomes’ following the changes. This success has led to the proposal that this new way of teaching, currently being drip-fed across the capital, should by 2020 be the nationwide reality.

Teaching in Finland is a considerably more prestigious profession than in the UK. All teachers hold Master’s degrees and boast competitive salaries. This is crucial as the success of this new model will ultimately come down to the teaching. Either it will pay dividends, as has been the case so far with Finland’s policies, or it could disastrously compromise Finland’s high standing. But while we might usually be inclined to follow in their footsteps, could there be a national appetite for such a radical reshuffle here in the UK? I somehow doubt it.

Learning for learning’s sake, with no evident practical application, still holds sacrosanctity for those like me, a futureless Humanities student. The high regard for ivory-tower learning is especially true somewhere like Oxford, a sentiment summed up by the Vice-Chancellor last year when he stated that the University must “reserve the right to investigate subjects of no practical use whatsoever”. This both aids students’ pursuit of knowledge and opens doors to new research; doors which would have been locked even earlier if we were to streamline secondary school subject matters to practical areas.

Nevertheless, though I don’t feel we should impose such a radical change (nor can we simply pluck the model from Finland’s overarching framework of values and paste it into our own society), we should recognize the failings of our education system.

An ‘exam factory’ approach to schooling has led to an extended training in memory expansion, rather than stimulating intellectual growth. On top of this the government continues its slog to encourage more students to take up the STEM subjects which are vital for the economy, while it is no myth that leading research universities favour ‘hard’, traditional subjects and admit fewer ‘soft’ A-levels. As these ‘soft’ choices are more likely to be taken by pupils from state schools, the result is that we have cultivated an environment of subject stigma where subject choice has become an additional hurdle for the socioeconomically disadvantaged.

With the education system coming under increasing fire in the run up to the general election, and calls from Labour’s Shadow Education Secretary to “rethink some of the fundamentals of the industrial model of schooling”, it will be interesting to see the direction the debate takes. Perhaps Finland’s educational facelift will be the wakeup call we need to take our own drastic measures to stop us trailing at the bottom of worldwide studies.  

Oxford Union invites Anjem Choudary to debate radicalism

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The radical Islamist preacher Anjem Choudary has been invited to speak at the Oxford Union, despite being on bail on suspicion of being a member of a proscribed terror organisation.

The invitation, which Choudary exclusively read to Cherwell, says that it would be “a great privilege” for the Union to host the preacher as a guest and that it would “be delighted” if Choudary honours the invite.

The panel discussion he is invited to appear in will be debating the motion, ‘This house believes that radicalism is born at home’.

The letter also explained the reason behind the debate, describing how “the Western world has suffered” due to radicalism in light of recent events, including the Charlie Hebdo attacks and murder of soldier Lee Rigby. 

Choudary was offered a number of dates on which the discussion could take place; the evenings of 28th May, 4th June or 11th June.

Choudary told Cherwell, “This is not the first time I’ve been invited to talk at a university. One of the most high profile was at Trinity College, Dublin, and these visits have proved very successful.

“Students at universities have more open minds and this will be a good opportunity to present my opinion on radicalism. It will be a very interesting evening.”

Choudary is currently on bail after his arrest in September 2014. He was one of nine men held on suspicion of being members or supporters of banned terrorist group, Al-Muhajiroun.

His alleged offences carry a maximum penalty of seven years’ imprisonment and he is due to attend a police station on 29th April, when police will choose to charge him, release him or extend his bail. 

He commented, “The police are currently looking for evidence regarding my arrest on 26th September. However, it is not a crime to be raided and I believe the police are under pressure from the Home Office.

“This has happened four times over the past five years and I have never been charged. Over the last 20 years, I have had only one conviction for organising a demonstration in Trafalgar Square in 2006, which was – of the 100 I have organised – one that I actually did not.”

Choudary has previously been associated with the recruitment and radicalisation of British Muslims who have in turn been charged with terror offenses in the UK.

He is thought to have played a role in the radicalisation of Brusthom Ziamamni, who was found guilty of plotting to behead a British soldier.

The invitation appears to contradict a recent bid by the Home Office to crack down on the problem of Islamic extremism, particularly at universities.

A spokesperson from the Home Office said, “This Government has been clear that hate speech and extremism have no place in our society. The Oxford Union, like higher education institutions and student unions, should give due consideration to the public benefit and risks when they invite speakers to address students.

“We would also firmly encourage consideration of wider social responsibility and an understanding of how they will manage the risk should a speaker break the law at an event. Anjem Choudary often presents himself as a representative of British Muslims. That is an insult to the vast majority who consider his views abhorrent.”

James Shaw, a Law finalist at St Hugh’s, commented, “I guess my main problem with inviting him is that his appearance would be a direct threat to Shia members of the Oxford community, who are already pretty marginalised within the UK Muslim community (let alone Oxford, where Muslims are already marginalised).

“Choudary has some horrible views on Shias (that they’re kaffirs and need to be destroyed, and so on) and has actually appeared in court before for attacking (or being a part of an attack on) Shias on Edgware Road in London where so many Shias and Sunnis live side by side. Inviting him to speak somewhere where there are Shia muslims living and studying is pretty threatening, given his past conduct.”

Undergraduate Jake Smales was also concerned with the invitation and commented, “Free speech is imperative, but at the same time there seems to be a line that we should be careful to cross. Considering that Choudary is currently on bail and has been criticised for his attempts to radicalise young Muslims, it seems fair enough to question whether legally and ethically he should be given another platform to preach from.

“I understand that could be useful to argue with him, but surely someone who refuses to condone atrocities like the Charlie Hebdo attack doesn’t merit the privilege of this sort of invitation?”

Fresher Jess Smith argued, “If you are going to remove the platform, then you must understand the connotations, chiefly that one is assuming that the students who will listen to controversial speakers at the union are not intelligent enough to make value judgments on whether they agree with there ideas.

“You also remove the opportunity to vocally condemn the ideas that these people support. You can’t be selective about freedom of speech, it is fundamentally counter-intuitive.”

The Oxford Union caused controversy last term when they invited Marine Le Pen to speak, provoking protests both for and against her invitation.   

The Union declined to comment on its invitation to Choudary. 

Fashion queens and royal scenes at Kensington Palace

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The most important ‘rule’ in the sovereign guidebook to fashion is reconciling the conventions of fashion with the principles of royalty. The exhibition showcases the dresses of three royal ladies: the Queen, her sister Princess Margaret, and Princess Diana. Despite the uniting thread of royalty, the three led very different regal lives and the exhibition reflects this in the way it has been curated.

There are three separate sections of the exhibition, each one a distinctive era. In the first, Elizabeth II’s diplomatic dresses are showcased against a background of post-war fifties optimism, whereas in the second, Margaret’s more glamorous costumes are stitched in front of the swinging sixties, and lastly in the third, Diana’s bold styles are modelled amidst the extravagant eighties.

The transition from austerity to affluence, epitomised by the ending of clothes rationing in 1949, led to the contemporary self-perception, and historical reputation, of the fifties being a decidedly more fun and exciting decade than its predecessor. The Queen’s clothes from this era however tell a subtly different story. Admittedly the beautiful and bejewelled collection does portray an instantaneous tale of glamour, but it is the duties of royalty, not the jewels, that sparkle most brightly.

The Queen was a powerful patron to British Fashion designers. Although her dresses’ ultra-feminine shape of nipped-in waistlines and exaggerated full skirts were in keeping with Dior’s ‘New Look’, the Queen nonetheless endorsed British designers. These included Norman Hartnell, Edwin Hardy Amies and Ian Thomas. The elaborate beading was often conceived of as being a characteristic showcasing of both British talent and taste.

Princess Diana also endorsed British designers such as Bruce Oldfield and Catherine Walker. Indeed Diana even popularised them on a paradoxically international scale so that she has subsequently been heralded as responsible for revitalising the fading British Fashion Industry.

The intricate details of Princess Margaret’s dresses however had been stitched not by duty, but by Dior’s chief designer; Marc Bohan. Bohan created his dresses for the glamorous crossover world of Hollywood stars, politicians, and royalty, such as Princess Grace of Monaco, formerly the actress Grace Kelly, Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy. Princess Margaret’s dresses show more freedom that Elizabeth II’s and Diana’s as they are less duty bound and more aesthetically loud.  

Margaret’s dresses evoke a regal theatrically, an almost mythical romanticism, devoid from the other clothing at the exhibition. Because she was under little obligation to patronise British designers, Margaret cultivated a ‘hippy’ image which was in keeping with the 1970s counter culture.

Margaret had also married into fashion royalty rather the monarchical kind. In 1960 she wed Anthony Armstrong-Jones, a renowned fashion photographer. In this decade Margaret was an embodiment of the swinging sixties and donned shorter skirts, slim-lined dresses and the bright and bold colours of Mary Quant’s ‘Chelsea Set’. She was also dubbed a ‘royal rebel’ because images of her smoking dressed in risqué halter neck dresses scandalised the national press.

Taking the three different sections of the exhibition together, it appears that Princess Margaret’s clothing has an edge of Hollywood glamour that made her dresses appear more as costumes of, rather than the reality of, royalty. This is understandably in relation to the different regal positioning of Margaret, as the Queen’s sister, to Her Majesty the Queen, and Diana, married to Prince Charles.

However, when perusing an exhibition, it is always worth thinking about what is not in the display cabinets, but safely under lock and key in the archives. Museum exhibitions provide only partial histories. Because the exhibition was held at Kensington Palace, where the Queen and Prince Philip had spent time together as newlyweds, and where both Princess Margaret and Princess Diana had started their families, an emphasis is given to the ‘Royal Family’.

The exhibition was a presentation of the stability of the Royal Family. The lacunae of the exhibition are notable. Little mention was made of Margaret’s inability to marry Peter Townsend, the comptroller of her mother’s household, because of a Church of England ruling. Rather, the decade of the swinging sixties was emphasised in both her clothing and eventual marriage to an artist of this era. Similarly, the ‘revenge dress’ of Diana’s was absent because the exhibition extended little beyond her marriage. This was the infamous little black dress that attracted overwhelming international attention because Diana wore it the same day her husband, Prince Charles, admitted his affair with Camilla Parker Bowles.

Fashion Rules tells the intriguing narrative of the Royal Family. It is particularly interesting to draw the distinctions between the three different royal ladies and moreover, to see how in this exhibition, both they and their clothes have been used as insignia of their eras. For me, what was most fascinating was to revisit the historical character of Princess Margaret and use her wardrobe as the entrance to the world of a more mythically romantic royal milieu.

Fashion Rules is open now at Kensington Palace until Summer 2015 

Review: Life Itself

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★★★★☆
Four Stars

Before Roger Ebert, no film critic had ever won a Pulitzer Prize or been awarded a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. On his death in 2013, Barack Obama wrote that “for a generation of Americans Roger was the movies… The movies won’t be the same without Roger”. Steve James’ life-affirming documentary paints the picture of Ebert’s long love affair with cinema and charts his debilitating disease as it takes its course in his final days. Unafraid to get close and personal with Ebert’s at times abrasive personality, his alcoholism in his early days, or the crippling effects of his cancer, Life Itself is a stoically honest but always celebratory portrait of the most famous film critic in cinema history.

Following Ebert from his strong Chicago roots, we see him rise up through the ranks of journalism, displaying an editorial aptitude from an early age. Chicago is to become more than just his home – it is to be forever more his journalistic stronghold, and from the moment he takes up the mantle of film critic at the Chicago Sun-Times in 1967, he begins changing the game of cinema criticism. He is pestered throughout his career to move to higher-paid, more “illustrious” newspapers, but he never wavers. He remained with the paper until his death almost fifty years later.

The documentary finally sheds light on the uneasy Albee-esque catfights that took place between Ebert and his costar Gene Siskel when the cameras stopped rolling on their smash-hit review show, Siskel & Ebert & The Movies. Ebert and Siskel were two giants of their time, both bullish and stubborn, and their relationship was more like feuding brothers than fierce rivals. Together, they established the make-or-break “Thumbs up!” or “Thumbs down!” verdict that became so ubiquitous in movie marketing, but throughout their successful careers, they never ceased to grab an opportunity to outshine the other. In the film, their respective wives speculate as to what may have happened if only they had put aside their differences and come to terms with how invaluable they were to one another.

We see Ebert’s adoration of the prestigious Cannes Film Festival, and his impressively tight mingling with celebrities of the screen, harkening back to the days when critics and artists would socialise together in the same exclusive circles. In many ways, Ebert was a chip off the old block of old-fashioned critics, but the documentary asks the poignant question – did his friendly association with the stars ever compromise his criticism of their work? A light-hearted Martin Scorsese – who was firm friends with Ebert for many years – thinks not, jovially recalling a wounded response to Ebert’s crippling review of The Color of Money. It was a way of “condemning and helping”, Scorsese assures us.

Martin Scorsese isn’t the only big name to sing Roger Ebert’s praises. Ava DuVernay and Werner Herzog are among a host of other directors and artists who felt personally shaped by his acerbic craft. Even Steve James credits a large part of his success to Ebert, who lauded his first feature, Hoop Dreams, in 1994. It feels as if the entire documentary is in some way James’ way of thanking Roger Ebert for this early praise; he gives the critic a chance to review for once his own life, rather than the lives of movie characters.

Omnipresent in the film of course is Roger’s wife, Chaz, whose indomitable spirit aids Ebert through his final cancer-stricken years. The camera pokes its neck in deep into Ebert’s hospital bed, and doesn’t shy away from showing us his worst days. There are uncomfortable scenes of the incapacitating disease and the critic’s painful attempts at rehabilitation and recovery. Fighting a disease as tenacious as cancer, Ebert knows that his days are numbered, but this only forces him to continually press on with his work. By his last years, invasive surgery has had to completely remove his lower jaw, and Ebert is only able to communicate via a computerised voice system, not unlike Stephen Hawking. Stripped of the ability to speak, however, Ebert does not allow his voice to be silenced. He triumphantly and inspirationally channels his suppressed energy into online blogging and reviewing, and continues to watch and love films until his death in 2013.

Towards the end of the film, Ebert relays how he often invites a close friend to recite to him the last page of The Great Gatsby. It isn’t hard to understand why these passages resonate so effortlessly with him. Ebert relates that he is more than aware of the passage of time – “of its flow, slipping through our fingers like a long silk scarf” – especially in his final years. Like Jay Gatsby, Ebert was a firm advocate of chasing dreams. He believed in the “green light, the orgastic future that year by year recedes before us”. And, also like the eponymous dreamer, Ebert had too come a long way to his own “blue lawn” – from a working class small-town boy in Urbana, to becoming a national celebrity and the most renowned film critic of all time.

Where are the women at the top of Haute Couture?

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Speaking at the Oxford Union last term, Anna Wintour expressed her desire to see more women as fashion designers. As she said, there are very few female designers in Haute Couture. Most fashion designers who create the exclusive and trend-setting fashions seen on the catwalk are male.

This disparity between female and male fashion designers may at first seem surprising. For many, the fashion industry appears to be one dominated by women. For instance, there are fewer fashion magazines aimed at men than there are at women. Yet even in an industry that largely caters to women, when it comes to Haute Couture, men dominate. In light of this, Kathleen Joe, a fashion journalist has noted that, There are far more women designers at the bottom of the industry, comprising over 70 per cent of fashion graduates; they’re just not rising proportionately to the top.”

However, it is worth venturing onto the High Street to look for a more positive story. For instance, the Chief Design position for H&M is carried out by Ann-Sofia Johansson. Johansson had previously served as the Head of Design of Hennes & Mauritz. She began working at H&M in 1987, and through incredible hard work and determination in her capacity as a design assistant, rose through the ranks to become the label’s Chief Designer.

Her success story is rather isolated however. In 2005, the New York Times stated that The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA) had given its annual award for young talent to 29 men compared to eight women. Even more startlingly, while male designers have taken home the Womenswear Award 13 out of 18 years, a woman has never won the CDFA Menswear award.

Moreover, what’s particularly troubling is that even if women are in relatively high positions on the High Street, these clothes are themselves inspired by the trends on the catwalk; trends that have been set by male designers. If we stop and think, the trends we follow and the styles we wear are more often than not products of male, rather than female designs. What does that say about gender equality in fashion?

At present there is an ever-increasing drive for gender equality across all job sectors with more women being promoted to higher positions. Yet in Haute Couture, a backward development is being made. In the past, there was a far greater number of female designers in Haute Couture – think Vivienne Westward or Coco Chanel, a brand named after the female designer herself. Now, the Chief Designer for Chanel is Karl Lagerfeld and many of the creative directors at top luxury brands are men: Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and Raf Simons at Christian Dior, to name just a few.

Let’s bring women back into Haute Couture, designing for the luxury fashion sector. Let’s celebrate and support current female designers like Stella McCartney and Victoria Beckham. They are both inspirations for other female designers seeking to go into Haute Couture. By showing this support and by flagging up the current issue, Wintour’s desire for more female designers can become a reality.

Kanye not? The racism behind Glastonbury petition

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This has happened before. No, I don’t mean that the brilliant work of an artist has previously been dismissed purely because of the colour of the artist’s skin – though that has happened many times. I don’t mean that an angry mob of ill-informed and unreasonable white people has previously risen up in condemnation of a black artist trying to get out of their box – though that has happened many times.

Brilliantly, comically, horrifyingly, this is not the first time fans of Glastonbury have decided that the biggest name in hip hop was not the right fit for ‘their’ festival. Noel Gallagher, who famously wasn’t even the right fit for his own brother’s shitty band, was one of the more vocal critics of the decision to book Jay Z for Glastonbury Festival 2008.  Why any publication still allows Gallagher to be vocal about anything is a mystery, but also a matter for another time. Anyway, Jay had the last laugh on that one.

Jay Z was “wrong” for Glastonbury, according to Gallagher, because the festival has “a tradition of guitar music”. Similar claims dog the recent booking of Kanye West. According to Ronnie Wood, “Glastonbury is the home of rock music and, look, Kanye isn’t rock”, while an online petition calling for his removal from the line-up has garnered over 120,000 signatures.

Quite how the Pilton Pop, Blues & Folk Festival, as Glastonbury was originally called, has become all about rock music in so many people’s minds bears some examining. Is it true that booking rappers is in some way against the spirit of a festival that is supposed to be headlined by some men playing some guitars very loudly?

It’s true that the first few performers – T. Rex, Fairport Convention, Hunky Dory era Bowie – back in the 70s, tended to employ the guitar in some fairly prominent form. But then, it’s not like the organizers had much choice. Music in this country during the 70s stemmed almost uniformly from blues rock. Bands such as Madness and The Specials pioneered ska and 2 Tone, but the guitar was still pretty much as far as anyone got.

In 1994, one of the biggest years for Glastonbury, Orbital graced the Pyramid Stage with a performance to define a generation, almost single-handedly forcing rave culture into the mainstream – and all without a guitar in sight. Other successful non-guitar driven artists to headline the Pyramid Stage have included Robbie Williams in 1998, a rather different David Bowie in 2000, Basement Jaxx in 2005 (who replaced Kylie Minogue), and of course Jay Z in 2008, defiantly brilliant despite the detractors.

Glastonbury was founded as part of the hippy counterculture movement of the 60s, along with other free festivals of the period, like Isle of Wight Festival. It was in this countercultural, revolutionary spirit that Orbital changed the rules in ’94, and the invitations of Kanye West and Jay Z fit perfectly into the festival’s tradition. Jay Z’s is a true rags-to-riches story – he used to deal crack on the streets of Brooklyn – while Kanye, with his frequent outbursts against multinational corporations, and renegade performances like his iconoclastic display at the Brits, is the archetypal anti-establishment artist.

If Kanye and Jay fit so well into Glastonbury’s tradition, why are fans so peeved? Surely the hippies who railed against the festival’s perceived selling out in 2002, when Mean Fiddler, the UK’s biggest live music promoter, acquired a 20 per cent stake, would be supportive of an artist who has always been critical of corporate control over music and creativity.

Their anger can’t stem from doubts about his ability to put on a show. Regardless of his proclivity to stop mid-performance for a 15-minute rant (I can’t be the only one who secretly wants this; come on, this is what we all balloted for last term), Kanye’s live performances are stunning, star-studded, stupendous. Musically, he’s at the top of his game, and the calibre of guest stars he can call upon – from Skepta to Paul McCartney to Rihanna – is frankly ridiculous. The incomparable Lou Reed, beloved by the Glastonbury faithful, said of Ye on Yeezus, “No one’s near doing what he’s doing, it’s not even on the same planet.”

The real answer, of course, is that the Glastonbury faithful aren’t angry that Kanye West has been booked to play Glastonbury this year. Neil Lonsdale, who started the petition, hasn’t even been to Glastonbury. The most popular reasons given by signatories on Change.org include claims that Kanye “sucks”, is “a cunt”, “has no morals and no talent”, and “a talentless, arrogant, racist douche”.

Obviously it is ludicrous to claim that an artist with 21 Grammys, three albums on Rolling Stone’s ‘Greatest 500 Albums of All Time’, and numbers eight and one on Pitchfork’s list, has no talent, so where does all this hatred come from? 

Emily Eavis, festival organizer, identified the problem in an article for The Guardian, in which she blamed the “dark underbelly of the web”. People of colour following this story will doubtless find nothing surprising in the vile things being said about Kanye. Statistics released last year by Pew Research Center revealed that 84 per cent of African Americans had witnessed online harassment, compared to 69 per cent of whites.

This debate has very little to do with music, as shown by Glastonbury’s past, and far more to do with the Internet’s relationship with race. Black people who try to be successful, to get out of the box in which society wants to contain them, are pushed down and belittled constantly.

Kanye West’s performance on the Pyramid Stage at Glastonbury this summer will be a triumph. That a man such as this still has to prove himself to haters is little short of a scandal; but rest assured, he will.

Hitchcock and Voyeurism

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When audiences first watched a crazed Norman Bates rip open the shower curtains and incessantly stab a nude Janet Leigh to a myriad of chilling stringed screeches, many deserted their seats and stormed out of the cinema. The film was of course Alfred Hitchcock’s 1960 landmark horror flick Psycho, and it remains one of his most acclaimed works of cinema. But what was it that horrified audiences so wretchedly? There is no visible nudity – rigorous censorship made sure of that – and we never see the knife touch, let alone penetrate, a single shred of skin. In fact, when one watches the film now it seems incredibly tame. So why did audiences feel so uncomfortable? It’s a simple but revealing explanation. Hitchcock forced them into a position in which they simply did not want to be – the position of voyeur.

As far back as ancient Greek tragedies, it was customary for horrific or violent deeds to take place “offstage”. Indeed, Roman poet Horace quipped in his Ars Poetica that although “the mind is less actively stimulated by what it takes through the ear than by what is presented to it through the trustworthy agency of the eyes”, gruesome acts such as Medea butchering her children or Atreus cooking his dish of human flesh should never take place “within public view”. It was a rejection of scopophilia, but a simultaneous acknowledgement of its power. There was something undignified and gratuitous about attempting to display violence right in front of the audience’s eyes. Not only were they unlikely to show it particularly effectively, but it was also not what the audience had come to see. As a voyeur, audiences somehow feel complicit in the events onscreen. With Pyscho’s infamous shower scene, Hitchcock thrust his audience into directly witnessing something that may just as well have taken place off-screen, or through a silhouette or some other suggestive technique. The audience are instead rendered as helpless and tragically vulnerable as poor Marion Crane herself: stripped down, holding up their hands in protest, screaming in vain.

Hitchcock pioneered a camera that represented the eye of the audience. Rather than watching all the action from a distance, like a play, the audience are granted their own position within the action itself. They are a character, in many ways. In particular, Hitchcock’s cameras often work as an individual’s point of view. In Vertigo (1958), for example, we experience Scottie’s acrophobia firsthand when the camera meanders and distorts via the dolly-zoom when at a great height. In Rear Window (1954), our vision is eclipsed by florescent bright flashes signifying the temporary blindness caused by the flashbulbs to Thorwald. It also allows us to pick up on things that other characters do not notice, such as when it zooms slowly in on Marion’s wad of stolen money in the motel room whilst Norman attempts to clean up the crime scene in Psycho. It is only natural that this special point of view acquired by the audience comes with its own advantages and disadvantages, liberties and limits. The boundaries are blurred between diegetic and non-diegetic audience involvement. The audience, as a voyeur, must take care with what they “choose” to see.

There is a prevailing obsession with voyeurism running throughout Hitchcock’s oeuvre. He knew that human beings have a fascination with watching. We are naturally nosy, curious, intrusive in our daily existence. This is demonstrated no better than through James Stewart’s protagonist in Rear Window. Finding himself crippled and bored, a man resorts to spying on his neighbours with a pair of trusted binoculars and the zoom of his camera, spinning a web of speculations and accusations from what he takes in through his subjective eyes. It’s also worth noting that the man is a photographer – he literally makes his living from observing with his eager lens. The opening passage of Christopher Isherwood’s 1939 novel Goodbye to Berlin comes to mind, when the meta-narrator declares, “I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking.” Hitchcock confines his audiences to a similar disposition. We are able to look, but not touch. From the safety of our seats, we watch the narrative unfold, except there is one key difference between Hitchcock’s audience and Isherwood’s narrator – Hitchcock wants us to think. As L.B. Jefferies watches his neighbours, he cannot help but make judgements and conclusions about their lives. Hitchcock knows that his audience will inevitably be forced to do the same.

But Hitchcock also knew of the darker side of voyeurism. Jefferies does, after all, become dangerously swept up in the illicit affairs of his neighbour through his scopophilia. This voyeuristic prospect is so compelling that it was adapted 50 years later into a loose remake called Disturbia (2007) with Shia LaBeouf. Norman Bates too exercises his own fetishisation of voyeurism to disastrous results. Before Marion Crane enters the shower, Norman removes a painting from the wall to reveal a peephole, through which he watches her undress. This is creepy to say the least, and Gus Van Sant in his 1998 remake capitalised on this creepiness to the full, having Norman masturbate as he peers at Marion’s body. Hitchcock plays too with his characters’ awareness of their own entrapment in a voyeuristic society. What is paranoia, after all, if not the fear of being watched, of being scrutinized, manipulated, and laughed at? Paranoia in film is a blacked out window – the fourth wall between character and audience. The characters are the victims, the audience are the watchers. North by Northwest (1959) is a prime example of this. Just as Roger Thornhill cannot see the sadistic pilot of the crop duster in the infamous scene in the cornfield, Hitchcock’s characters are often overwrought with a sense of being personally victimised and spied upon by unseen forces. More often than not, these forces turn out to be us, the audience.

What Hitchcock’s voyeurism established was a camera that never leaves its subjects alone – a camera that never hides behind bushes or pans to euphemistic shots of the ocean during lovemaking – a camera not afraid to show the audience exactly what is happening. As well as granting the audience a new role in the watching of cinema, he also opened the floodgates for what could be shown on screen, being somewhat bold and liberal with his prevailing themes of sex and violence. Of course, Hitchcock worked in a world far more heavily dominated by censorship than the cinema of today, but his influence has been invaluable. When Sharon Stone slowly opened her legs in Basic Instinct (1992), revealing her – erm – lack of underwear, she created one of the most infamously erotic scenes of modern cinema. The camera does not shy away from Miss Stone’s vulva; instead, we see exactly what the detectives in the room see, and thus we are just as shocked and uncomfortable as they are.

Alejandro González Iñárritu’s Birdman undoubtedly owes its innovative “eternal” camera techniques to Mr. Hitchcock as well. The camera (and thus the audience) become a inquisitive and curious backstage presence, following the action wherever it leads. Birdman is an example of pure cinematic voyeurism – the camera literally cannot stop watching people for a single moment. It is even scared to blink. We see his influence in the point of view shots of Michael Myers in Halloween (1978), and even the eponymous shark’s beady perspective in Jaws (1975).

Moreover, we must ask if a film as “racy” and explicit as Fifty Shades of Grey could have ever been made without Hitchcock’s audacious smashing down of the barrier between the eyes of the audience and the eye of the camera. There is practically nothing in modern cinema that would now be deemed “unshowable”. The audience – as voyeurs – are trusted with the all-seeing camera lens. To attempt to allude or to hide things from the audience is to patronise them and to be untruthful to the events of the film. It isn’t about showing nudity or violence gratuitously, it’s about trusting the audience with the nature of the material and – moreover – indulging the inherently human fascination with watching other people’s lives, and for that we must unreservedly thank Mr Hitchcock.

Recipe of the Week: Mushroom Stroganoff

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Now that Hilary term has finished and most of us have headed home for Easter, it’s the perfect time to relax, rewind, and raid your parents’ kitchens.  Mama may have made your favourite for your first night back, but she doesn’t have the time to cook your every meal till May, and learning some new dishes that you can’t make in the average underequipped student kitchen is an excellent method of procrastination.  I’d recommend this modern classic while the last of the winter chill is still with us, because, seriously, who has nutmeg in their student flat?

What You Need:
900g mixed mushrooms (e.g. button, chestnut, shiitake if you’re fancy), roughly sliced

10g dried porcini mushrooms
275ml dry white wine (not Tesco’s Own please)
2-3 peeled onions
75g butter
200ml crème fraîche
a large pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
salt and pepper

Method:

1. Start by heating up the wine in a small saucepan until it just starts to simmer, then take it off the heat and leave the porcini mushrooms in it to soak. 

2. Slice the onions as halves and separate the segments into semi-circle strips, and melt 2/3 of the butter in a frying pan (pick one with a lid, but don’t put it on yet).  Toss the onions around in it till they soften, then take them out and put them aside in a bowl or plate, making sure to leave as much butter in the pan as you can.

3. Divide the rest of the mushrooms roughly into three groups, and turn the heat up high on the pan.  Fry each mushroom group one at a time till they brown, adding them all to the onions as you go.  Keep adding butter to the pan as is necessary.

4. Once you’re done, put all these browned mushrooms and soft onions back in the pan.  Drain the wine from the saucepan into the frying pan, then chop the porcinis and add them too.  Add salt and pepper for seasoning, put the lid on the pan and leave it to gently simmer at a low heat for half an hour. 

5.  When you come back to it, take it off the heat and add the crème fraîche and nutmeg.  Put it back on the heat till it’s hot (but not bubbling!) and serve with plain rice.