Sunday 8th June 2025
Blog Page 1521

Preview: Hay Fever

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Hay Fever is a 1920s society romp written by Noel Coward, peppered with sex and dramatics. Set in the affluent Bliss family’s country residence, it will be performed in Brasenose quad in 3rd week as part of Brasenose’s Arts Week. It will appear alongside a screening of The Big Lebowski and a satire in which a man falls in love with a goat (The Goat), I would describe Hay Fever as a more familiar scenario which is nonetheless incredibly compelling.

The Blisses are rich and slightly bored: two parents and two indulged children of around 20 make up the basis of an assured cast. The family is centred around Judith (Emily Lassman) played, in her own manner of speaking, ‘perfectly divinely’.  She is a scandalous matriarch-cum-actress who alternates between her charming façade and biting one-liners. When told that Myra Arundel (Tori McKenna), a flapper-about-town, will be arriving shortly to visit her son Simon, she opines that Miss Arundel ‘goes about using sex as a kind of shrimping net’ and regrets that her son socialises with ‘self-conscious vampires’.

The script is witty, the cast confident and easy to watch. Act I, the only act I was shown, was slick and full of energy. Apart from one occasionally dodgy French accent and a single prompt, the cast have little to tighten up. Repartee is batted back and forth from character to character, making it look easy as they languidly recline on couches. The play opens in a haze of ennui – brother and sister Sorel Bliss (Clare Pleydell-Bouverie) and Simon Bliss (Phil Rigley) lounge and discuss which guests are about to pay each member of the family a visit. Simon sketches as Sorel pouts about her mother’s inappropriately young boxer guest: the mood is frivolous and solipsistic, and also deliciously watchable.  The play corresponds perfectly with what we’ve come to expect from an Oxford summer: afternoon drinks, croquet and lush lawns compliment this pastiche of easy living.

The play’s slightly more resonant side is concerned with the acting seen within the lives of the characters: Judith is an actress, and her children understand how to play a part to get what they want. We observe Judith hastily learning the names of flowers so that she can blag an interest in gardening to her guests when they arrive. The audience sees both sides of a family that is very preoccupied with appearances:  by contrast, their guests are blissfully unaware of the farce they have stumbled into. The idea of a drama within a drama is supposed to lend the script weight, along with an element of social commentary. Whether or not this means the play has a lasting impact remains to be seen: Hay Fever has been criticised for a lack of plot and one-liners. This doesn’t detract from how entertaining Act I was for me – go along with Pimms and pray it doesn’t rain. 

Interview: Tribes

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Johnny Lloyd cuts a relaxed figure as he lounges on a sofa backstage at the O2, long hair covering half his face. But he quickly becomes animated as, after initial small talk, we get on to talking about his band, Tribes, one of the hottest properties in English guitar music since last January when their debut album, Baby, came in at 9. Lloyd describes this as one of the all-time high points in his life. What with this success, and the veritable storm of critical acclaim that has come Tribes’ way, it seems almost criminal that they haven’t been more widely recognized, and remain relegated to the smaller room upstairs in the O2, and the online-only section of Cherwell.

English guitar music hasn’t exactly been dominant in the charts in the last few years, and Lloyd sounds slightly bitter as he complains that “guitar bands don’t get as much support on the radio as they should”. But it’s 2013! It’s the year of the guitar band, as proclaimed by the almighty NME! “They say that every year though,” moans Lloyd, who clearly has an axe to grind as he goes on to say “I resent that guitar music is defined in its own category separate from everything else anyway. It’s damaging to the whole rock n’ roll industry.” So he wouldn’t consider incorporating electronic influences in his own music at all in the future? “Fuck no, I can’t stand that stuff,” he responds earnestly, launching into a mini-rant. “If there’s a computer on stage you might as well go home and listen to the CD. It’s different every night with Tribes. We play instruments, which is almost a redundant thing. It’s like, ‘oh really, you play? Shit, why? Why don’t you just be a DJ?’ We take pride in our musicianship and we always have and we won’t be buying synths any time soon. What’s more exciting, watching the Stones in their prime or watching fucking Basement Jaxx?”

The band’s new album was recorded in the legendary Sound City, Los Angeles, famous for being the studio where Nevermind was recorded. Lloyd says the change of scenery was just part of the drastic change in the band’s mindset with their sophomore effort. When they were recording Baby in Liverpool, Charlie Haddon, a close friend of the band and lead singer of Ou Est Le Swimming Pool, had just leaped to his death from a crane at Pukkelpop festival in Belgium. But Lloyd says LA was “a very cleansing experience”. “The Americans drink less, they go surfing every day,” he continues, outlining what sounds like a very relaxed but also work-orientated nine weeks. Not only that, but they were mixing with the stars. “David Bowie’s pianist did all our piano and we had all the original Motown singers on backing vocals”. In the future, he says he’d love to work with Mick Jones from The Clash, after the great job he did on The Libertines’ first album.

The band are looking forward to festival season, enthuses Lloyd, who insists that British festivals are “better than anywhere else in the world” and goes on to say that “Reading’s one of the best music festivals, it’s my favourite because of the size of it. It’s a great opportunity for guitar music to reach a greater audience.” Tribes play Reading for the third time in a row in August, and are clearly planning to enjoy it.

Wang Leehom visits Oxford Union

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Last Sunday afternoon, Wang Leehom, an American born Taiwanese singer-songwriter, spoke at the Oxford Union to a crowded debating chamber.

Leehom, 36, arrived amongst loud excited cheering and clapping. He focused his talk on how the east and west need to understand each other better and build a stronger relationship “like roommates”. He stressed the idea of generating a novel global music culture called “world pop”.

Leehom spoke of his mixed experiences growing up in New York and the difficulties that he faced as a minority there. Leehom stressed the importance of music in integrating different cultures. “It breaks down walls’, he said, “helping to build bridges, allowing people from different backgrounds to connect”.

He began his speech with a minute silence to pray for the victims of the Chinese Sichuan earthquake and the Boston Marathon bombings.

Leehom moved to Taiwan in his late teens. He learned to play many traditional Chinese instruments and learned what made the Chinese audience connect with “certain structures, melodies and rhythms”.  Thus, Leehom began to fuse his western pop/R&B music with these traditional Chinese song elements and became a pioneer in combining eastern and western soundscapes to create his novel sounds: world pop.

In his talk, and the subsequent Q&A, Leehom strongly emphasised how the east and the west should make more efforts to understand one another, to allow for “more cross cultural exchanges” in order to “break down stereotypes” and remove misunderstandings”.

He said that popular culture can have an “enormous influence on how we think, interact with others, behave and understand one another.

“It is not only pure entertainment”, he said, but it can profoundly shape dialogues, “define values across the globe”.

Summer Day Dreams

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CLOTHES Amelia wears Primark blue polka dot shirt, Topshop black trousers, Mink Pink white shirt, Primark shorts. David wears Hackett jacket, Tommy Hilfiger chinos, Timberland deck shoes, shirts from Jaeger and All Saints, H&M white undershirt.

MODELS Amelia Sparling and David Vigoureux
PHOTOGRAPHER Henry Sherman
STYLIST Tamison O’Connor

Inside the 2013 Vogue Festival

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Arriving at the most glamorous festival in London last Sunday, I had high expectations. Models, fashion editors, designers and photographers – from Alexa Chung and Victoria Beckham to Mario Testino and Donatella Versace – descended upon the Southbank Centre to give guests an exclusive insight into the fashion industry through panel discussions, mentoring panels and interviews.

 

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Attractions included the Vogue Braid Bar, where expert hairdressers created one type of hair braid – fishtail, French, beach, boho and wraparound; a gift shop selling everything from Vogue sweatshirts to copies of Mario Testino’s latest book, signed by the photographer himself if you queued long enough; free Dior and YSL eye and lip makeovers; and ‘cover shoots’ (unfortunately they came at a price).

 

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I had a ticket for the ‘Too Fat, Too Thin…Will We Ever Be Content?’ panel discussion, chaired by Vogue’s editor-in-chief Fiona Golfer and featuring Daisy Lowe, David Gandy, Patsy Kensit and Christa D’Souza. Rather than focusing on whether models were too skinny, the discussion centred around the way in which we deal with our own body image and insecurities. Despite all being slim, every panelist admitted that their weight had been criticised and scrutinised at some point in their life. The whole thing veered between being problematic and genuinely useful: the first observation I made was that every single panelist had a ‘socially acceptable’ body. The only person who’d ever been ‘fat’ (we’re talking a size 12) was Patsy Kensit, and she’s now a promotor for Weightwatchers. Telling everyone to love their bodies regardless of what everyone else says is pretty hard when every panelist has the conventionally perfect body and when none of them have had to deal with, for example, people staring at their bodies in disgust as they walk down the street. Bemoaning lack of bodily diversity in the media is ironic when the problem also makes its way onto the panel. 

 

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Much of the discussion, rather than actually addressing the title question, was focused around ways to reach a target weight: “What’s the secret of getting where we want to be?” asked Golfer. Healthy eating tips were shared. Advocating nutritional education in schools is great, but not in a discussion about whether we’ll ever learn to love ourselves as we are. Kensit even referred to “the correct way to be”, with absolutely no sense of irony. The conflation of health with body weight and the preoccupation with women having to “dress for their shape” – would we tell a man to dress for his shape? – was incredibly frustrating. Despite the muddled message that we should all be proud of our bodies, there was still a lot of fat and thin shaming going on: too-skinny or too-fat women were dismissed as unhealthy, with one member of the audience describing catwalk models as “mutants”. There was a lot of feel-good rhetoric but the panelists didn’t explore the wider underlying issues behind the way we see ourselves, outside of gossip magazines and D’Souza’s argument that “we live in a culture of dissatisfaction and you kind of have to transcend that”. The outlook seems bleak: none of the panelists could see a real way out of this overarching destructive culture of self-hate.

 

But that doesn’t mean there weren’t positives – amid the confusion, some great things were said:

 

“Historically men do the doing; we are looked at” – Christa D’Souza, touching on the elephant in the room: the role of patriarchy in women’s low self esteem

“Eating something and feeling awful about it is a form of self-hate” – Daisy Lowe

“Food shouldn’t be the enemy” – Patsy Kensit

“You are [seen as] a lesser person if you can’t discipline yourself in the face of all the stuff” – Christa D’Souza

“We should be proud of our bodies, whatever shape and size” – Daisy Lowe

“We’re all real women” – Fiona Golfer

 

It was a very nice, uncontroversial, feel-good discussion which ultimately failed to pin down the question itself of whether we will really ever be content – not only with our own bodies but with other people’s too – and whether we will ever stop labelling others as too fat or too thin. In hindsight I was probably expecting too much from the fashion industry. There were definite signs of progressivism, but nothing radical enough to make a real difference. Perhaps I should have gone to ‘Can Fashion Change The World?’ instead.

 

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OTHER MEMORABLE QUOTES FROM THE 2013 VOGUE FESTIVAL

 

“I like first class, but I don’t like first class people – I prefer the people in coach. I like fine restaurants, but prefer the taste of McDonalds. I like to be perfect, but I don’t like perfection – I think it’s dangerous. There is nothing after perfection. I know, I am a walking contradiction.” – Alber Elbaz

 

“Keeping integrity is important, you need to maintain quality.” – Tamara Mellon

 

“I wanted to communicate fashion as an experience, a joy, an emotional thing.” – Susie Bubble

 

“You can find inspiration in everything. If you can’t, then you’re not looking properly.” – Paul Smith

BEAUTY CORNER – Ball make-up at Chanel

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As someone who is by no means skillful with a make-up brush, the first thing I did in preparation for the annual Exeter College ball was book a makeover at the Chanel counter in Boots on Cornmarket Street. The policy for most of the make-up counters is that if you buy two of their products you get a free makeover.  

The consultant started with the LOTION CONFORT toner for dry or sensitive skin, followed by the HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE NUTRITION moisturiser for dry skin. My usual foundation is the long-wear matte Perfection Lumière, but the consultant recommended VITALUMIÈRE AQUA in beige for my dry skin, with LE BLANC base underneath for a longer-lasting effect. 

The dark circles under my eyes were well concealed with the PERFECTION CORRECTION in beige and my perfectly made-up skin was set with UNIVERSELLE LIBRE loose powder. A SOLEIL TAN DE CHANEL bronzer highlighted my cheekbones and gave them a little extra colour.

I wanted my look to be subtle and understated so just a smidge of brown eyeliner was drawn around my lower lids. The emphasis was on the eyelashes with the help of INIMITABLE INTENSE in black, which gave me just the right amount of definition. I opted for my favourite eyeshadow, the ILLUSION D’OMBRE in VISION, a beautiful, sparkly, gold dust colour. The gel texture is a great innovation for long-wear eyeshadow. We finished with eyebrow pencil and the ROUGE ALLURE VELVET matte lipstick.

Although not cheap by any means – Chanel products cost upwards of £20 each and I had to buy two of them – the make-up session was well worth it and I left with moisturiser and foundation for my dry skin. The consultants are willing to put in time and effort to ensure that you’re completely happy with your look and they don’t let you leave until it’s perfect. Most people don’t mind doing their own make-up but if you want something special it’s an easy way to have it professionally done to your exact requirements. And Chanel products are lovely: classy and fabulous, just as Coco would have wanted. 

  

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1. LOTION CONFORT toner, £29

2. HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE NUTRITION moisturiser, £46

3. VITALUMIÈRE AQUA in beige, £32

4. LE BLANC base, £31

5. PERFECTION CORRECTION in beige, £36

6. UNIVERSELLE LIBRE loose powder, £36

7. A SOLEIL TAN DE CHANEL bronzer, £31

8. INIMITABLE INTENSE, £24

9. ILLUSION D’OMBRE in VISION, £24

10. ROUGE ALLURE VELVET matte lipstick, £25

The Case for Homebrew

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A friend of mine had a traumatic experience last term. A public house – that shall remain unnamed – charged her five quid for a pint of London Pride. She was too English to complain about being mugged in broad daylight, but the idea of it rankled with me. Don’t let the advertising fool you. Beer is not a high-tech potion: the hard-earned product of modern science. Humans were drinking it before they were driving, and that tells you all you need to know; it’s water, starch, yeast and hops. The secret’s out.

The first I heard of homebrew was from the legendary Super Hans of Peep Show fame. “Sorry, lads. Locked doors. Little switch just flicks, you know? Ever since Dad locked me in the airing cupboard to monitor the home brew.” Carrying on this paternal spirit, Hilary term was all about hiding my homebrew keg in my college son’s cupboard, albeit without the element of college-family cruelty. It’s a throwback to the days when people could make and mend things; come the nuclear winter, you won’t be able to count on breweries churning out their ubiquitous amber nectar/carbonated cat piss, so learning to make your own hooch might be a good idea. Not that I care; homebrewing is admittedly the territory of both the beer snob and the indiscriminate tippler. You know you’re making something dark, frothy and bitter, but get over the delusions of grandeur as quickly as you can; you’ll be doing well if your first batches are approaching drinkable. That said, us British students are hardy types, and the attractive bit is the price of it all; once you’re set up with some basic kit (keg, airlock), a batch of 25 litres (44 pints) of beer can cost you south of £15, which goes on a tin of pre-hopped malt extract. That means we have more money to spend on, like, books and stuff, you know?

Alcohol comes with a health warning; if you try and drink that all yourself, you deserve the hangovers coming your way. But that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy beer. The pleasure’s mostly in the brewing rather than the drinking; I felt an inappropriately childish excitement watching it bubble away for a week. If anything, feeling like a manually competent human was an alien experience, and those of you retreating into academia might want to grab the opportunity before it’s too late. In the dismal tundra-wasteland of austerity Britain, the 35p pint is definitely something to smile about.

Review: Southside Johnny & the Azbury Jukes -Hearts of Stone

★★★★☆
Five Stars

Southside Johnny should have become an icon, a stadium-filler, and a rock god in the 35 years since Hearts of Stone. The Jukes were formed by Steve Van Zandt, known to many as sideman to Bruce Springsteen and a regular in The Sopranos, who formulated the intricate horn arrangements and solid rhythmic backbone of the Jukes provided by fellow E Street band members Max Weinberg, Gary Talent and the ‘Miami Horns’. The connections with Springsteen don’t end there, with ‘the boss’ offering song-writing responsibilities to a number of tracks having been a childhood friend of Southside in his hometown of Freehold, NJ.

The album has often been described as ‘the one that Springsteen should have written’. What Hearts of Stone offers, however, is a much more soulful and heartfelt approach to proceedings in terms of musical production, lyrical content and the stylistic influences that Van Zandt fed into the backing band he had assembled. From the pounding intro of ‘Got To Be A Better Way Home’ to the lyrical bass line ‘Hearts of Stone’ accompanying the fragile vocals of ‘Light Don’t Shine’, each song feels like an old friend with a sort of personal identity which is overrun by the anthemic qualities of much of Springsteen’s work making for a much more intimate offering.

Hearts of Stone should have been a timeless classic appreciated not just within its time, of its time but of all time. At thirty-seven minutes long it’s a short blast of perfection that has never quite been replicated. Even though the original line-up reunited in 1992 for Better Days, along with the E Street Band members who had gone down in rock-folklore in the intervening years, it was never quite the same. 

“It’s over, the light don’t shine no more” Southside sings in the impeccable closing number. The “light” reflects the circumstances in which Hearts of Stone was created and which will probably never be emulated. Hopefully someday it will be appreciated for the soulful perfection it embodies.

Track to download: Trapped Again

Let sleeping students lie

Some do it a lot; others moan that they never get any at all. Whether you can go for hours each night or prefer to indulge yourself in the middle of the day – perhaps even in public places – everyone does it. Obviously, I’m talking about sleep here.

Starting up a discussion of sleeping habits is a sure-fire way to get scientists grinding their teeth and grumbling about something called ‘morning lectures’, and to get arts students comparing their preferred napping techniques.

I have one friend who adheres rigidly to a self-inflicted 10:30 bedtime, while another describes himself as “dark and mysterious” because of his nocturnal working hours, but is rarely seen out of bed before noon. Then there is that peculiar breed of Oxonian: the rower, who rises and shines in time for morning outings each day with an enthusiasm bordering on the grotesque.

There’s huge variation within the animal kingdom too. Rats can last three weeks without any shut-eye; whales and dolphins don’t sleep for a month after birth; horses and cows often sleep standing up, but can apparently only have dreams when lying down. Certain breeds of snails, meanwhile, can snooze for up to three years.

For humans, the most commonly cited figure is 6-9 hours. Turning to science for an answer, I learn that our sleep cycle is regulated by our ‘circadian clock’, which is based on the light/dark cycle. This is found in all living things. It even affects metabolic rates in fungi.

The exact amount of sleep needed varies from person to person, and in young adults the ‘clock’ is shown to be set a little later, which explains why students are often night owls. It is nevertheless important, and regular disruption seems to have serious negative health effects.

Studies have shown 11 days of staying awake can be enough to kill you, though the Guinness Book of World Records states 18 days as the longest period a human has gone without sleep.

For an activity that takes up around a third of your life, and is by all accounts pretty essential to our health and happiness, it’s surprising to find that many famous figures saw the idea of sleeping as a nuisance.

Along with Margaret Thatcher’s famous ability to get by on four hours a night, there are many others who view it as unimportant, inconvenient, or even as a weakness. Scientific big dog Thomas Edison said it was a waste of time. The ever-cheery Edgar Allen Poe described sleep as “those slices of death”, and even everyday phrases such as “you snooze, you lose” send out the message that time spent sleeping is time wasted.

Some students seem to share this philosophy, managing to cope with ridiculously little sleep. I’ve always regarded them with a kind of jealousy; the extra daytime they’re getting seems so unfair. Even the classic essay technique of the all-nighter has always proved too much for me. At every attempt, somehow I can’t seem to make it past 2am – before I know it, it’s morning and I awaken to a three-paragraph essay and a deadline in half an hour. As I prepare my excuses, the only consolation is that it can’t be healthy to miss out on sleep – surely?

Speaking to a few Oxonians who have already been through the grimness of Finals, I heard of one History student who fell asleep during one of his exams, only waking up at the end. One Oxford law graduate told of an incident where a fellow student stayed awake all night before their first exam, felt that they did badly, and then walked for several miles still dressed in sub fusc before they were eventually found. Happily, this story ends on a positive note, as the student went on to complete Finals the following year and did very well. The graduates I spoke to added that most students start being more sensible about getting enough sleep as exams approach, with any problems being down to last-minute nerves.

What is perhaps more worrying is the huge number of students who turn to ‘sleep substitutes’. On the way to Prelims last year, one of my friends spent the journey necking Red Bull and another passed around a packet of Pro Plus, cheerily telling us how they’d spent the previous night unable to get to sleep. The long term effects of missing out on your forty winks can be scary, with sleep deprivation linked to heart disease, weakened immune systems and Alzheimer’s.

That’s all a long way off now, and many a student would still prioritise the elusive First over the humble recommended 8 hours sleep. A caffeine boost every so often isn’t likely to do much harm on its own, but the Great British Bedtime Report (apparently that’s a thing) suggests we underestimate the importance of sleep, and rest in general, with statistics showing almost half of Britons are kept awake by stress.

There’s no question that a lot of people take academia seriously here, arguably rightly so, but the idea that evading sleep entirely is the best way to achieve this seems bizarre. Myriad health risks aside, let’s not forget that your best ideas may come to you while sleeping; Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein were both based on the authors’ dreams. So was the Twilight series, come to that, but I’m still going to use this as justification.

Personally, I’m yet to work out if I’m a morning or night person (sometimes leading me to wonder if I’m even a person at all); but if nothing else, I am most definitely a nap person. It’s great preparation for a stint in the library – scientists say a 20-minute nap gives the same energy boost as 2 cups of coffee – and works equally well before a night out.

In Year 5, I was hugely jealous when my best friend moved abroad and told me French schools had mandatory afternoon naptime, and I can’t wait for my own siesta-filled year abroad in Italy. As Hemingway put it, “I love sleep. My life has the tendency to fall apart when I’m awake.”

If you’re finding yourself feeling constantly tired though, there may be a serious cause, with anaemia and diabetes being the most common. But before you venture into the world of online diagnosis – rather like an especially morbid Choose Your Own Adventure book with pregnancy and cancer as the only possible outcomes – take a look at the more obvious options. Essay all-nighters, the sticky-floored allure of Bridge or a crippling 4OD habit are far more likely culprits than river disease.

There’s a huge amount of money to be made from the lethargy of the population, so a lot of scientists focus on ‘studying sleep’, something which, incidentally, sounds like a great excuse for the next time I get rumbled in a mid-lecture nap.

Something excitingly called The Sleep Council seems to have collated much of this research. To my disappointment, I find I’ve just missed National Bed Month (March), a part of their campaign to spread awareness of how to sleep well. They also offer tips on choosing a bed, diet, and the intriguingly titled ‘sleeping tips’. This all seems like an awful lot of attention to something the majority of us take for granted.

A lot of their tips for a better night’s sleep probably sound fairly obvious; keep to a regular schedule, take time to relax before going to sleep, avoid food and caffeine after a certain time of day. How easily these things can be slotted into an average student’s timetable is another question.

Perhaps your college has generously bestowed on you a neighbour with a penchant for late-night guitar practice and a room with paper-thin walls, or perhaps you’ve found yourself in a relationship with a snorer or sleep-talker. But there’s still hope; some factors are within our control.

Working in bed during the day probably won’t help. If you’ve been shunted to a college room which forces you to be particularly inventive about furniture choices, this may be difficult, but it will be less easy to relax if you come to associate it with stress.

Whatever you do, definitely don’t sleep snuggled up with your books. Osmosis is not a legitimate revision method, and chunky textbooks and lever-arch files weren’t designed for use as a pillow. On the flipside, more recent recommendations also advise against getting ‘too much’ sleep, which can apparently carry health risks of its own.

The general gist of it all seems to be that if you manage to keep some sort of regular routine and aren’t going to bizarre extremes to fend off sleep, you’re probably doing alright. But enough of that, all this science is making me sleepy. Night night.