Friday 28th November 2025
Blog Page 4

A Sunday in the Park with Marianne.

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She wears no rings. Her ears are double-pierced, hanging with astrolabes and star-studded. She wears two necklaces—one is a golden cross, and the second is a white diamond. Her wrists are thick with bracelets. But no rings. 

She no longer wears gloves. I wonder if this is by her choice, or practicality. Her hands are white and creamy. Butter-soft, and when I clasp one in my hand, she feels oddly fragile, though I know she has withstood worse.

There is a crafted beauty to her and I think perhaps her sculptor could not quite fashion rings out of his portfolio. When she smiles in greeting, her eyes are dwarfed by the cherry red of her cheeks. Tiny crescents of ocean. I kiss her cheek and feel her eyelashes soft against my skin. 

The park is heavy with promenaders. We negotiate prams and nannies and stray children; pensioners walking prim poodles. The sun bites the back of my neck. 

We haven’t met since before the war. When we were both brides flushed with the shining attention drawn by a kneeling man in a garden of roses. 

Her wedding was a ripple in time. She was gorgeous in white, adorning the arm of her father, first, and then her husband, in a house of God, under the eyes of God. 

Deep into the wilderness, there is a grove secluded from the public eye. I have never known another soul to walk there. It is shabbier than the rest of the park, overgrown and half wild. An anti-Eden: I think that God cannot see us here. 

The bench where we sit is chilled by shade and I am drawn closer to her warmth. The green of the trees accentuates her blue-and-black dress; I think of how the forest caresses the night sky. I would kiss her there, under the stars, as I kiss her now. Her lips are paper-soft. 

There are no sparks; no fireworks. We ache and undulate, oceans roiling within and we muffle the sounds that mouths make when they work. I wonder if she muffles them for him. 

I wonder a lot, but very little when she is opening, like a flower in the sun, wrapping her arms around me, pushing her forehead into mine. 

When she is like this, I forget that when she goes home she becomes mummy and she will melt into her husband’s arms as she has done mine. That when I get home, I will breathe only the colour black. Thick and suffocating, it winds down my throat, and only her oxygen in my lungs can clear it. I die on a hill of cliches, and find her alone to be new. 

She wakes me from dreamlike musings of reality with soft kisses to the side of my neck. I am a feeling creature in her arms. Nothing but stupid sentiment, irrational and insolent in the face of reason. Of truth. She cradles my face and I feel like a virgin again, brimming with excitement rather than the usual dread. 

I know, without reservation, that she cannot remain in my possession. My grasp is firm, and I have known what it is to hold onto something and never let go. Yet, as we hear bicycle bells and carrying laughter, she pulls from me. My planet spirals out of orbit. 

She doesn’t feel it like I do. Like a tug at her ribs, or a hole in her heart. 

And I hate her for it. 

I hate that it is easy for her. She slips from loving me to loving her husband like changing clothes, an old habit, an easy routine. 

Falling through longings, I find I am made low by the weight of my own desire. My own wretched flesh which, goose-flesh rising, wants only to touch her. 

When she leaves, I will know everything there is to know about love. The bicycles chime like church bells and I hear her children laughing on the breeze.

They are whispers in time, and I am centuries-deep. 

I watch her push two rings onto her left hand. The sun bounces off the stones; dazzling. 

Magnolias

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Slender boughs tremulous under the weight

of tight-lipped buds, pink like dawn’s blushing glow,

she peeps from the garden, standing tiptoe,

feels the sun’s caress. Like the call of fate,

silken rays command the buds to unfurl,

and burst forth in springtime’s dizzying whirl.

A whimsical breeze o’er the garden plays,

fills each flower’s chalice with melody,

his laughter finds an echo in the tree,

rustling, whispering of joyous summer days

to come, and under the spell of his song,

the magnolia blooms and dreams all night long.

A sudden summer storm. A cloak of night

muffles the pallid moon; sky torn apart

by lightning, like a cry wrenched from the heart.

The magnolia shudders with strange delight,

the breeze engulfs her in a wild embrace,

as half-abashed, each flower hides its face.

Breathless morning finds the tree all forlorn,

aloof in the stillness. Blossom’s tatters

Strewn on the ground like a dream that shatters

in the cold light of day. In silence mourn

the disheveled boughs, for the breeze is still,

a crushed petal falls on the windowsill,

limp like a discarded ribbon, some sink

into the sparse patch of soil, or are blown

to the street to be trampled by feet unknown.

Dirt obscures the petals’ once pearly pink,

yet from their deaths will next year’s blooms be born,

So, dear magnolia, look not so forlorn!

Shy of beauteous ruin, the breeze stays away,

repentant; soon in gaudy leaves she smiles,

regretting her blooms no more, she beguiles

the breeze once more as friends to laugh and play.

At times the breeze remembers in his flight

The scent of petals in the passionate night.

A Spell For Students 

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Reading unfinished? Essay half written? Lectures not attended? Then this is the spell you need, guaranteed to make you succeed at your degree*

Under the full moon brew two 

tablespoons of tea, or if you prefer 

coffee three.

At the subsequent 

sunrise, smear a single tear 

stolen from a tutorial onto 

a clearly torn page from a textbook.

Stir the above in an unwashed mug, 

complete with a broken pencil snapped with love. 

As the rain slices through the night, sprint 

around the quad thrice, mug outstretched

and mouth open wide. 

Scream carpe diem, be bold, be free

until your voice is sore, then 

pour the contents across the floor

and academic success will be yours!

*works best with 8 hours of sleep

Brown boots, black boots, and the politics of autumn style

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Autumn always brings a question of existential importance: brown boots or black boots? It’s more than a colour choice; it’s a subtle declaration of intent. Fashion might be dismissed as frivolous, but what we wear communicates who we are, who we aspire to be, and how seriously the world should take us.

I recently found myself in a full-blown brown-boot-versus-black-boot debate with my courier. They were unhelpfully neutral; I was less so. It was the perfect reminder that even small fashion choices can spark surprisingly fierce philosophical reflection.

In academic spaces, this balancing act is especially tricky. Women are told to dress “polished but not distracting,” to look professional without appearing frivolous. My solution? Fashion that is purposeful, characterful, and unmistakably you.

  1. Curate a Signature Piece
    Every wardrobe needs an anchor. It could be a hat, a coat, or a pair of gloves, something that announces you before you even speak. Mine is a Dutch naval coat from the 1980s, thrifted by my dad, which somehow gives me instant gravitas. And let’s be honest, thrifted coats are basically wearable history lessons. Think Anna Wintour’s glasses: a small signature can be surprisingly powerful.
  1. Decide Your Makeup Philosophy
    Maximumist or minimalist, you need a lane. My red lipstick is practically part of my identity; without it, I feel unfinished. Others may swear by eyeliner, foundation, or even a subtle contour. Consistency is key; it signals confidence, not vanity.
  1. Embrace Colour and Pattern
    Autumn doesn’t have to be beige. Bold block colours – hunter green, burgundy, mustard yellow – can be contrasted with patterned skirts or trousers. Gingham, tweed, or even an unexpected velvet texture injects personality into otherwise “safe” outfits. And please, for the love of fashion, one statement jewellery piece is enough; your pendant doesn’t need a fan club.
  1. Develop a Signature Scent
    Scent is the ultimate style statement: invisible but unforgettable. Chanel No. 5 may be classic, but consistency transforms fragrance into a subtle declaration of identity.
  1. Boots Matter
    Short boots in brown are versatile, approachable, and charming; long black boots are imposing, confident, and excellent for stomping through metaphorical or literal academic battles. Chunky heels are practical without being pedestrian. When in doubt, think contrast and statement.

Fashion is not just about clothes. It’s about individuality, confidence, and the quiet assertion of identity. A thrifted coat, a pop of colour, or a signature scent can transform how you feel and how the world sees you. So next time you hesitate over brown versus black boots, remember: fashion is a conversation. Choose boldly, wear proudly, and never let anyone tell you your shoes aren’t doing the talking.

“You’re going to make mistakes”: Katie Robinson on fashion and sustainability

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Katie Robinson is a sustainable fashion journalist, content creator, and campaigner, with experience working in fashion marketing. Her videos delve into the existence and effectiveness of marketing trends, and the development of sustainability in fashion. 

I (virtually) sat down with Katie to discuss hot topics in fashion – ranging from the fashion of Formula 1, Victoria’s Secret’s ‘inclusive’ new fashion show (neither secret nor inclusive), to the many ways that AI is rapidly taking over the fashion industry. 

Cherwell: How do you decide what your videos will be on? Are they usually about what current topic angers you the most?

Katie: It really varies! Sometimes it will be something that I’ve noticed happening in the industry – maybe other people are talking about it in magazines and I feel I have an angle on it. Or maybe there’s a trending topic on social media, and I’m like “Oh, this could do with a sustainable fashion spin.” As much as I want to yap on and on about my interests, I need to make it accessible to the most people, which is something I’ve really had to learn whilst making my channel. 

Cherwell: Since the quality of clothes is getting worse all the time, is there a way to identify higher quality pieces at lower prices?

Katie: It’s a hard one, and I say this all the time in my videos – I am not a materials expert! There’s always this argument of ‘polyester is good’ or ‘polyester is bad’, and I don’t have a definitive answer…  

Personally, I try to avoid a high percentage of polyester – I’ve read all the articles about health concerns, and obviously it’s bad for the environment. That’s scary, but some people say you do need polyester, especially for things like activewear where there aren’t a lot of attainable solutions. It’s hard to avoid, and so I try to go for second-hand options (maybe 75% of my wardrobe is second-hand). When I shop firsthand, I try to invest in something I really believe in.  

Cherwell: You mentioned in a recent video how brands are also aware of how we interpret certain words like ‘polyester’, and so try to deceive us by using other terms we won’t recognise. It’s funny how we really don’t know what we’re buying…

Katie: I know, and it’s so dependent on what brands think – and they’re getting smarter all the time. They’re taking genuine concerns from consumers and trying to warp that into getting us to buy their products. It’s so, so hard to navigate. No one is perfectly sustainable; you’re going to make mistakes.  

The one thing I always focus on is the garment itself. Do I love it? Do I think I’ll care for it? Will I keep it in my wardrobe? That, to me, is better sustainability wise than buying a piece from the most sustainable brand that you’re never going to wear.

Cherwell: Since so much of sustainable impact is up to the brands to control, is there anything that we as consumers can do?

Katie: I do believe we can make a difference. When you talk about how much brands are producing, and how there’s this massive issue of recycling, it feels like, “Okay, well what can I do, this is a massive industry issue.” But I do believe that everyone doing something tiny makes a massive difference. Wearing your clothes to death and recycling on your own may not seem like you’re making a difference, but I think it does. It makes me feel better as a consumer. But I know it’s overwhelming, so imperfect sustainability is absolutely fine. A tiny step is still a step.

Cherwell: Given your experience working in the fashion industry, do you think that companies actually take sustainability as a major part?

Katie: I worked for a very small brand before, that championed their sustainability, and I do think they were doing some very interesting things. But it’s hard to be a fashion brand. You need to put profit above all else in a capitalist society – that’s just unnegotiable. There aren’t many examples of brands that you can look at that are sustainability first and profit after. I do think there are a few that are choosing a balance and it’s working – I always talk about GANNI. I think their sustainability marketing is good and really clear for consumers. Whether they’re at the forefront of the industry I’m not sure… But as a consumer of them, I do feel informed. There’s also Stella McCartney, which pushes a lot of innovation in the industry. I saw some brands put ‘the planet’ on their list of shareholders, and I think that’s a really cool technique – I would love to be a fly on the wall in these meetings and see if there’s actually this impact.

Cherwell: What do you think should be done about the amount of fast/ultra-fast fashion (Shein, Temu) that is in charity shops? Should charity shops just throw these clothes away?

Katie: Such a good question. The first thing that pops to mind is no; we don’t want to be throwing stuff away. But we also don’t want to be giving this stuff away. Immediately, you might think that well, giving away all this fast fashion is a really good use for it. But it’s about the psychological aspect of giving – for lack of better words – crap clothes to people. That’s just not nice for anybody; it’s not a solution.  

I think the first thing has to be turning off the tap – regulating these companies to stop producing so much. The second thing is to make sure that some of the money going to billionaire companies is turning into fashion recycling, so when it gets to the inevitable point that no one wants to buy these clothes, you can use them to make more clothes, packaging, or fillers for sofas. That might be a better life than what they have now, without throwing them away across the world or giving them to people that don’t want them. 

Cherwell: With the rise of TikTok fashion, do you think that fashion nowadays is really self-expression if we’re all just dressing the same?

Katie: No (laughs)! This is something I could yap about all day. Fashion and trends have become symbiotic – it’s not about self-expression, it’s about consuming. Fashion influencers have become shopping influencers. We have lost the meaning of why we buy clothes in the first place (but obviously there was always the aspect of having to clothe ourselves). If you think about ‘90s/2000s fashion, compared to what we would define as 2020s fashion, there’s nothing you could give as a defining moment other than microtrends that already feel cringy. I think it’s so interesting how everything feels outdated. 

Cherwell: You made a video about how Hailey Bieber’s Rhode company leaning into the use of food in their marketing is likely related to the rising cost of daily essentials. Do you have any future marketing trend predictions?

Katie: I think that everything is going to revolve around this new type of influencer that we’re starting to see – brands are now wanting influencers that stand for more than just a shopping recommendation. They want people that have jobs in the real world and a following outside of fashion that they can tie their industry to. This is for credibility, because fashion right now is flailing. Also, brands will push influencer relationships more, especially with sponsored influencer community events like the Lyas fashion watch party in Paris. It’s insane, but such a good example of how brands are now going to people rather than bringing people to them. Overall, consumers are looking for more substance from the people they’re watching.  

Cherwell: You’ve discussed new companies that are being driven by AI trend predictions in your videos before. Do you think that AI can take over fashion – in place of human designers?

Katie: If we’re talking about the fashion industry in the last 5-10 years, and how it’s devolved into trends and consumerism, then yeah. I do think that AI can rule most of that. But if we’re talking about fashion as an art form, then no, I don’t think you can remove the human aspect of that at all! There has to be someone creating something and someone seeing and connecting to it for it to still be called fashion and not ‘shopping’. Already we’re seeing AI take over so much of the fashion industry. There are so many jobs being replaced that we’re not aware of. What is the point if fashion isn’t human?’

Cherwell: You shared a post in an ‘AI in Fashion’ video recently that noted how there were AI models before plus-size models in Vogue. Do you think there’s a future of inclusivity for body types in fashion, or is it inherently exclusive?

Katie: Oo, that’s a hard one. Again, it comes down to whether fashion wants to go for the shopping only route, or if they’ll listen to consumers that want to see fashion as an art form. In the art case, they can’t ignore body and size inclusivity –people are sick of seeing fashion on skinny models. 

However, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show just came back. People were like “Oh, it was inclusive this time” (which they aren’t usually), but I don’t think it was all that inclusive. I have to say, I didn’t watch all of it, because I wasn’t that interested (chuckles). It’s another case of the same body type wearing polyester clothing. People did seem to like it online… Maybe this goes against my point of brands having to stop being deaf to size inclusivity. I’ve seen all the Vogue reports for this season (and the prior ones) that size inclusivity is steadily going down. It’s a known issue, and people are picking it up, but fashion just doesn’t seem to be responding! As much as I think that consumers don’t want this, and it will get in the way of profits, fashion seems to think something different. We had a sweet spot in the 2010s-2020s where it was really improving on the runway. Plus-sized clothing was obviously not developed enough, but still trending upwards. And they just threw all that out the window.

Réhahn: “Photography, at its best, is an exchange of respect”

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Réhahn is an award-winning French photographer, based in Vietnam and known for his portrait, lifestyle and impressionist photography. His most famous photo, The Hidden Smile, was gifted by Nguyen Phu Trong, former Secretary of Vietnam’s Communist Party, to President Emmanuel Macron in celebration of 45 years of diplomatic relations between the two countries. Réhahn’s photography has won a variety of accolades and his work Best Friends is the most expensive photograph ever sold in Vietnam.

How I came to interview Réhahn is a peculiar story. It was early September when I visited Vietnam and met a German-Irish backpacker who would, in the most literal sense, change the course of my journey. We met fleetingly and, having travelled through the country in opposite directions, exchanged advice for the next part of our journeys. On my bus ride the following morning, I was surprised to find that she had slipped a note into my bag. It explained how, late in the night, she had thought of one final recommendation: Réhahn’s Precious Heritage Museum. One memorable visit and two emails later, I found myself interviewing the world-famous photographer.

I began by asking Réhahn about The Precious Heritage Project, the namesake of his museum. He described how, like all his works, the project was one born out of curiosity. He first visited Vietnam in 2007 with the French NGO Les Enfants du Vietnam and, in the north of the country, met members of the Hmong and Dao ethnic groups. Through further research, he learnt of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups as well as their respective languages, traditional crafts and clothing. Realising that no complete cultural record existed, he set out to document the country’s diversity through photography, giving rise to The Precious Heritage Project. He explained how “it felt natural to include portraits of tribespeople in their formal dress, to give a sense not only of the craftsmanship but also of the people themselves”. We then discussed his nearly decade-long journey pursuing the endeavour.

Cherwell: What was the most significant challenge you faced during your travels to complete the project?

Réhahn: Many of these journeys were physically demanding, involving long drives or hikes on remote mountain roads, unpredictable weather, and language barriers. But the greatest challenge by far was finding people who still possessed their traditional garments. In many cases, the outfits had been buried with the older generations or replaced by ready-made clothing from China. I was searching specifically for handcrafted textiles that carried the generational knowledge and traditions of each group, and those were often difficult to find.

Sometimes I would visit one village where no traditional garments remained, only to discover many in another village belonging to the same ethnic group. It was never about meeting each group simply to check them off a list, it was about finding the most authentic representation of their cultural heritage.

Another major challenge was obtaining permission to enter certain areas where ethnic groups live. A few communities near border regions are under government regulation, and it took me as long as three years to receive approval to photograph there. The administrative side of completing this project was, in many ways, as demanding as the physical one.

Cherwell: Each photo in your Precious Heritage Collection represents one ethnic group. What was your creative process like trying to portray heritage through photography?

Réhahn: It’s impossible to capture an entire culture in one image, so I never even tried. Instead, I simply tried to represent the person in front of me in the most honest way possible. I hoped that these photos could represent several layers (not the entirety) of the cultures: the personality of the tribesperson in the portrait, the craftsmanship of the garments they wore, the embroidery, beading, and textiles acting almost like signatures for those who had created them and the generations before who had passed down the skills. I never imposed direction; I let the person’s dignity and presence lead the image.

I feel close to early portrait photographers like Nadar, who saw photography not as mechanical reproduction but as a psychological encounter. He believed that the lens could reveal something of the soul, and I think that remains true today. My goal is to create a visual connection that carries emotion, identity, and respect across time.

Cherwell: You have previously talked about the idea of “mutual exchange” in portrait photography – could you explain a bit what you mean by this term and how it shapes your process?

Réhahn: For me, every portrait must be based on balance. The subject gives me their image, but I give them something too, such as prints, friendship, or in some cases continued support in education, essential needs, healthcare etc. Many of the people I photographed have become close friends; some I still visit every year. You can’t take a meaningful portrait in five minutes. You have to sit, drink tea, listen, share your story too. Photography, at its best, is an exchange of respect. The kind of portrait photography that is just about snapping photos of strangers without speaking to them, isn’t my style. I love learning from others, especially the elders in these communities, who have lived through so many historical events. That exchange keeps the photograph alive. It’s an act of sharing.

Cherwell: What do you think makes a good photographer? What advice would you give to someone trying to make a career out of photography?

Réhahn: A good photographer is, above all, a good observer. It is not about equipment or even raw talent; it is about patience, empathy, and curiosity. My advice would be to learn how to truly see, and to slow down and notice what others overlook.

It is also important to create your own rules and not become trapped by convention. Stop imitating and start inventing.

Cherwell: You’ve now lived in Hoi An for over 20 years. Have you learnt much Vietnamese since moving and how has it shaped your interactions?

Réhahn: I speak Vietnamese now, which helps me connect with people. However, in the ethnic villages, many people don’t speak Vietnamese. The languages are totally different, so there’s no way for me to be able to communicate fluently everywhere.

In the early years, I made a lot of mistakes, some of them quite funny. But that often helped me to connect with people. Language, like photography, is about intention. People feel when you are trying sincerely and they tend to meet you halfway.

Cherwell: In recent years, you have been experimenting with impressionist photography, particularly through your series Memories of Impressionism. How did your interest in this photographic technique arise and in what ways is Impressionism significant to you?

Réhahn: After years of portrait and lifestyle photography, I began to feel the need to go beyond documentation, especially after officially completing The Precious Heritage Project in 2020. I have always admired painters such as Monet, Cézanne, Degas, and Renoir for their courage to question how we perceive light and movement. During the lockdown, I finally had the time to study them deeply.

That enforced solitude during the pandemic, in many ways, mirrored the voluntary isolation chosen by so many great artists. Cézanne left Paris to return to Aix-en-Provence, where he painted alone before the Sainte-Victoire mountain. Van Gogh, in the South, also experienced long periods of solitude that became the crucible of his work. Monet, at the end of his life, withdrew to Giverny and found in his garden an inexhaustible world of motifs and reflections. Like them, I found that solitude can be a creative refuge. My Impressionist photography continues the questions these artists began rather than imitating their answers. I’m inspired by the way that Degas’ close cropping, Monet reflections, and Cezanne’s moody colour palettes, among other things.

Each image is an experiment in what a photograph can suggest rather than what it shows. I feel I could spend just as many years exploring this style as I did with The Precious Heritage Project, which says a great deal, considering I spent more than a decade researching Vietnam’s ethnic groups.

The research into Impressionism is twofold. I spent years studying the philosophies of the movement and even wrote a book about my discoveries, Impressionism: From Photography to Painting. At the same time, I have been developing my own techniques, since creating the idea of the ephemeral in a photograph is entirely different from doing so in a painting or sculpture.

Cherwell: Could you tell me a bit about the different methods you use to achieve an impressionist style and the process of developing them? When I visited your gallery in Hoi An, the staff told me about the use of smoke, reflections and wind to create different effects.

Réhahn: Yes, I use natural elements such as reflections and heat distortions to soften the image directly in-camera. The wind and smoke are part of it but they actually make it more difficult. If there is too much wind, for example, the distortion is too strong. The smoke makes it hard to breathe and can cover-up the line distortion from the heat.

In the right conditions, the heat distortion creates an effect that resembles brushstrokes. It adds a kind of three-dimensionality to the photographic surface, which from a distance appears to have the texture of paint. I find it fascinating how this distortion changes not only the way we see the image, but also how we perceive the very structure of the surface itself. When I photograph reflections in water, the effect is slightly different. The movement of the water still mimics texture, but it creates something more dreamlike, with softened colours and diffused light. My idea is to capture an image that will never return, and to explore the effects of light on these fleeting moments.

I don’t rely on digital manipulation; I prefer to work with chance. The process requires patience, because the scene exists only for a moment before it disappears. I could never capture the same image twice. That impermanence is precisely what I seek, and it aligns closely with the explorations of the Impressionists.

Perhaps more importantly, this work pushes back against a different kind of temporality, the temporality of the internet and digital images in general. The majority of images are instantly uploaded, shared, liked, and then almost as instantly forgotten. My goal is almost the reverse. I capture a scene that is fleeting in real time, something that changes within a breath, a reflection, a gust of wind, then arrest it in a photograph. In that tension lies the power: the scene disappears, the image stays. It becomes something you have to look at twice to understand what is real and what is imagined.

Cherwell: How do you perceive the relationship between fine art and photography? Do you think there is growing exploration of this overlap and, if so, why?

Réhahn: The boundaries between fine art and photography are dissolving, and I think that is a good thing. Both ask the same questions: how is our vision different, and how can we distinguish ourselves from the flood of smartphone images and now AI-generated works? As artists, more than ever, we should avoid building walls between mediums and instead embrace one another as peers exploring the liminal space of creativity.

My Impressionist work exists somewhere in the in-between. It is rooted in reality but transformed by imagination. I believe more artists are exploring this overlap because we are no longer afraid to blur definitions. Art evolves by testing its limits.

Perhaps that tension, between what is seen and what is felt, is where photography begins to become something else. Whether it still belongs to photography or moves into fine art, I’ll leave for others to decide.

Cherwell: Finally, what is the most important lesson photography has taught you?

Réhahn: That the most satisfying work lies in both connection and the courage to invent new rules. That’s how you become not just a photographer, but an artist. Photography has also taught me that the story doesn’t end when I press the shutter. It continues in the eyes of those who look long enough to see what I saw.

Find out more about Réhahn and his works at www.rehahnphotographer.com

Students join demonstration to keep Campsfield House immigration detention centre closed

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Approximately 50 protesters staged a demonstration outside the Campsfield House immigration detention centre in Kidlington, Oxfordshire, this afternoon. The protest included students from the University of Oxford and was organised by the Coalition to Keep Campsfield Closed. The group are campaigning to prevent the government from reopening the detention centre after it closed in 2018 following concerns about safety and living conditions.

The coalition was founded by Asylum Welcome, a charity providing support and advice to asylum seekers and refugees living in Oxfordshire, as well as the Oxford branch of Student Action for Refugees (STAR) who seek to build “a more just society for refugees in Oxford and beyond”. The groups were joined by members of the Stand Up to Racism movement, as well as local residents during the demonstration.

The protesters held placards reading “freedom is a human right”, and a banner which read “coalition to keep campsfield closed” was draped across a sign at the entrance to the Oxford Technology Park. Song sheets were also handed out, with activists singing: “It could be you, running from the guns and bombs…It could be us, fleeing from famine and war.”

One protester told Cherwell: “We are here to express our rage and distress about a place that treats people with such hostility and cruelty simply for being born in a different place.” Another said that they were appalled that the site will be operated by the same company who ran the previous detention centre, adding “the whole thing is disgusting”.

Campsfield originally operated as a young offenders institution before becoming an immigration detention centre in 1993. The site closed in 2018 after the government decided not to renew its contract with Mitie, who operated and managed the centre. Before its closure, 41% of Campsfield’s detainees described feeling unsafe, whilst an inspection by HM Chief Inspector of Prisons found that “many rooms were cramped and standards of cleanliness were variable”, with rooms “blighted by damp and peeling paint”. However, the Inspector also noted that Campsfield had a “calm and relaxed atmosphere”, with “little evidence of violence”.

Boris Johnson’s government announced plans to reopen Campsfield in June 2022. Last year, under the current Labour government, the Home Office awarded a £70 million refurbishment contract to construction firm Building Southern as part of the site’s reopening. Cherwell understands that Campsfield is expected to reopen at the beginning of December and that the new centre will also be operated by Mitie.

Ahead of the protest, STAR said: “More detention means more years of danger, misery and harm for detainees. Mistreatment of vulnerable people, including survivors of torture and trafficking, is deeply in grained the system. Immigration detention is not the answer to the arrival of people in the UK, regardless of how they get here.”

A spokesperson from Asylum Welcome told Cherwell: “We strongly support student activism on these issues. Students have historically played a powerful role in challenging injustice, including since Campsfield was first opened, and we are grateful to STAR for continuing this legacy by raising their voices in solidarity today. Their advocacy helps challenge harmful narratives and keeps public attention focused on the human impact of detention.”

They added that “the Home Office and Mitie will be watching, and it matters that they see the people of Oxford care and will continue to hold them to account”.

Despite today’s demonstration, Asylum Welcome fears that the government will proceed to reopen Campsfield next month. Subject to funding, the charity is preparing to pilot a visiting service in order to support Campsfield’s new detainees. The spokesperson told Cherwell: “This does not affect our membership of the Coalition, nor our commitment to its principles. We believe we can both support people in detention, and campaign for an end to detention.”

In response to the protest, Mitie told Cherwell: “Our colleagues are committed to upholding the highest standards of dignity, safety, and respect for those in our care.  At Campsfield, our experienced team is focused on creating a safe and supportive environment built on compassion and care.” 

The Home Office has been approached for comment.

Exeter College unveils plan for supercomputer science park

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Exeter College has unveiled its plans for EXOq, a new research and innovation environment to be built near Oxford Parkway Station in north Oxford, which will house a pioneering ‘supercomputer’. The project name, EXOq, combines the college’s initials with the letter ‘q’, referencing quantum computing and the site’s research goals. A public consultation on the proposals took place at the North Oxford Golf Club from 13th to 15th November.

Exeter College said in a press release that the site’s newly-built data centres will be able to host sovereign High-Performance Computing (HPC) infrastructure, which is intended to support research of global significance. The project will develop existing supercomputing discoveries in health, robotics, particle physics, and climate research in order to tackle some of the biggest issues facing the world today. The data centres are also expected to include trusted research environments capable of hosting sensitive datasets such as NHS data.

Professor Sir Nigel Shadbolt, Chair of AI@Oxford Research, said the project’s ambition was to make supercomputing infrastructure available to Oxford researchers “at discounted rates”. 

Beyond its strategic importance, Exeter’s plans for the 30-hectare site will benefit the local community. Just under half of the land will be used as parkland to provide “leisure and community facilities” to support the wellbeing of local residents. The College will also build new foot and cycle bridges near Oxford Parkway Station, supporting travel to Oxford and Kidlington.

The EXOq project announced that the planned development could generate a gross value of about £1.4 billion per year when fully operational, with £900 million directly benefitting Oxford’s Cherwell District. The research project is also estimated to create 7,000 new jobs. 

To address concerns about environmental stability, heat generated by the liquid-cooled data centres could feed into new heating systems for Oxford residents. Additionally, EXOq is currently in discussions with 1Energy, the UK’s leading low-carbon heat network developer, which has already secured £21 million in government investment to help heat Oxford.

Rector of Exeter College Dr Andrew Roe described the development as “a significant investment in both national capability and the local community”. Nicholas Badman, Exeter’s Finance & Estates Bursar, added that EXOq’s infrastructure would “power and accelerate research of global significance” while enhancing Oxford’s role as a centre of scientific excellence and world-renowned status.

Are Paper Books the Last Bastion Against Digital Media?

By all logic and Silicon Valley prophecy, physical books should’ve gone the way of Blockbuster and handwritten thank-you notes. E-books and audiobooks are faster, lighter, cheaper, and don’t require you to carry around what is essentially a small tree.

With a phone, tablet, or one of those dedicated e-ink readers that make you feel like you’re holding a high-tech calculator from 2004, you can download any book you want. In fact, people are picking up PayPal gift cards on Eneba and building digital libraries from the comfort of their couch, probably while half-watching a true crime documentary and questioning their life choices.

Digital: Lazy but Make It Literary

And then there are audiobooks. They’re the chosen format of multitasking. You can listen while cooking, driving, pretending to work, or staring dead-eyed into the abyss of your laundry pile. Someone else reads the book for you. It’s peak laziness disguised as productivity, and we love it.

So Why Aren’t Books Dead Yet?

Because they’re the last sacred space in a world that wants to ping you every 4.2 seconds. They’re gloriously analog. They don’t buzz. They don’t need updates. They don’t suddenly disappear because the publisher lost a licensing battle with Amazon.  Just like some things in life, the digital version might be convenient, but the real thing is always better.

Smell That? That’s Legacy

A physical book is a sensory experience. The smell of the pages, the weight in your hands, the satisfying sound of flipping a page – yes, we’re getting dramatic here, but physical books are dramatic. They sit on your shelf like quiet trophies of all the things you meant to read but didn’t, and that’s important. E-books vanish into the void of your Kindle, lost behind a dozen half-read thrillers you panic-bought at midnight. Nobody gets impressed when you say you “own” 400 e-books. They get concerned.

Real Books Are Real Vibes

There’s a weird intimacy to reading a paper book. You mark your place with a receipt, or a leaf, or a chewed pen cap, and it’s yours. The creases, the notes in the margins, the chocolate stain from when you got too into the plot – that’s a reading life lived. You just can’t fold a Kindle page.

Shelf-Confidence Matters

And let’s not forget aesthetics. No one’s proudly displaying their “Audiobooks I’ve Listened To” shelf on Instagram. Bookshelves are personality statements. A cluttered pile of books on a nightstand says, “I’m intelligent but chaotic.” An alphabetized library with color-coded spines says, “I’m terrifying but probably successful.” E-books say, “I’m minimalist,” which is often just code for “I am lazy.”

Long Live the Papercuts

So no, physical books aren’t going anywhere. They’ve survived centuries, fires, censorship, teenagers, and now… tech bros. They are the cockroaches of the intellectual world – persistent, tactile, and slightly dusty.

E-books and audiobooks are great. Seriously. Use that PayPal gift card you grabbed on Eneba and stock up on all the digital lit your device can hold. But every now and then, crack open a real book. Let your thumbs get papercut. Let your arms ache from the hardcover. Let your cat knock it off the bed.

Because in a world that’s constantly buffering, sometimes paper just feels better.

Demystifying PMDD: The missing conversation

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Women’s health is a curious thing. It’s not unusual to come home from a GP appointment with an unshakeable sense of disappointment, and often more questions and frustrations than you had in the first place. Symptoms are often diminished or disregarded altogether; women are consistently treated as inadequate authorities on their own health. It was only in the 90s that it became common practice to include women in clinical trials, meaning that the very metrics by which we determine physical health are inherently flawed. What this has caused is a profound sense of mysticism when it comes to problems relating to women’s health, particularly hormonal problems. 

For as long as I can remember, women older – and, I thought, wiser – than me would laugh and sigh knowingly whenever I brought up feeling tired or unhappy, citing “hormones” as the culprit. They were right, as I later discovered, but not in any specific way. This uncertain rhetoric that I and many others grew up with around the way hormones work meant that they became shrouded in mystery, assuming the status of a kind of hazy force, a grim reaper which hovered above, ready to descend and wreak havoc at a moment’s notice. 

This was in the days before cycle tracking, now made popular by aesthetically pleasing apps and memes about the luteal phase, in which every month felt a bit lawless. Of course, everyone knew the basics: you should expect, in the days leading up to your period, to well up at seemingly trivial things like TV adverts about life insurance for the over 60s, or catching your jumper on a doorknob; to crave chocolate and bread and have a higher propensity than usual for snapping at your parents. These confusing but often amusing side effects of changing hormone levels would disappear with the start of your period, and could be neatly pathologised by the label ‘PMS’. But what wasn’t clear was what you should do when these symptoms didn’t disappear right away, but lingered for longer, and manifested themselves in more serious ways than crying over daytime television. Or even that there was a name for it. 

Not a lot of people know what PMDD is. I didn’t for quite a long time, and it was only after extensive googling, often in the middle of the night, that I discovered what it was. It’s frequently described as a more severe type of PMS, which can have a greater negative impact on your daily life. Feelings of panic, hopelessness, and a general lack of emotional equilibrium are amplified in the week leading up menstruation, and often persist for longer afterwards. Clinical definitions, as is often the case, don’t exactly capture the iron grip PMDD can have on your life, the extent to which it gets inside of your head and takes firm hold. It looks different for every person who experiences it; for me, it can feel a lot like being underwater one day, smothered by a kind of muffled, static silence, and resurfacing the next, to bright light and sharp sensations, where everything feels intense and overwhelming. It can cause sufferers to feel sensitive to rejection, lack self esteem, and generally just feel like they’re losing control of their emotions. And then, gradually, it subsides, slipping out of view – almost as if it was never there. 

This is part of the problem with the condition: it can make you second-guess your emotions and instincts ad infinitum. During moments of happiness, where life feels like it normally should – where the ups and downs are there, but are manageable – it’s hard to believe that you ever felt what you felt at all. This kind of self-gaslighting isn’t necessarily helped by GPs who, even though they were (hopefully) well-meaning, seemed all too eager to consign my symptoms to general anxiety, and recommend going for a walk and doing some breathing exercises; or, that favourite catch-all solution, the pill. 

Thankfully, there is a side of me that is quite determined (read: stubborn), and I eventually found a doctor who seemed to understand my attempts at explaining the extremity of my mood swings and the places my brain often led me to. She sent me a 15-page document about PMDD (which I’m fairly sure is aimed at medical professionals, but there’s nothing an Oxford student loves more than a bit of extended reading) and prescribed me medication to help stabilise my mood. The experience reminded me that one of the most powerful tools at your disposal is being able to do your own research. This is something that, as Oxford students, we perhaps take for granted: we regularly tackle essay crises and in-depth discussion, embracing our curiosity and trusting our own instincts. But this doesn’t have to be confined to the academic world – it can help de-mystify whatever you’re currently dealing with, and that can only be a good thing.