Sunday, May 18, 2025
Blog Page 49

Charity shop pirates: Is second-hand shopping as sustainable as we think?

My wardrobe is home to a number of second-hand finds that I have bought impulsively, only to discover: it won’t pull over my head, or is plagued by a stubborn stain, or is simply not an item I would ever actually wear. Buying clothes that you later dislike is not a crime – but an issue certainly arises when this is done constantly and thoughtlessly. For decades, charity shopping has been the most affordable and accessible way to put clothes on your back, but only recently, as vintage has become trendy, has it begun to contribute to our misguided consumption habits.

Following the 2008 financial crisis, a greater proportion of the population found itself reliant on the second-hand market. With the emergence of online second-hand marketplaces, thrift shopping firmly planted its feet in the internet age: Vinted was founded in 2008, followed by Depop in 2011. It almost harks back to pre-capitalist bargaining and trading systems – an expression of disillusionment with the economic reality of the time. Attitudes towards second-hand clothing experienced a shift from being sneered at to suddenly being lauded as chic and unique. Thrift shopping progressed beyond financial necessity into the fashion mainstream, to become an ethically friendly disguise for overconsumption.

Pre-worn clothing is cheap, and its stock is unreliable. What is clinging to the racks or listed on a seller’s profile one day might be gone the next. Like pirates returning to ship with a trunk-full of shiny rocks, we often bring home pieces of clothing for fear that someone else may grab them before we have made up our minds. Not to mention all the statistics we have been pumped up with regarding the catastrophic environmental and social impacts of fashion conglomerates: buying out half a charity shop now also has a moral incentive. But the term ‘fast fashion’ does not solely refer to a rapid production time. It’s also about the shortened life cycle of clothing: how quickly an item is bought and then discarded. The slower repurposing and recycling characteristics of the second-hand market are morphing into this fast fashion mentality.

From Depop sellers ravaging their local charity shops, to influencers filming immense Vinted hauls, we are applying a capitalist, more-is-more attitude to what ought to be a sustainable resource. The rise of excessive second-hand buying and reselling means that clothes are spending more time collecting dust on overpacked racks than they are actually being worn.

With trends constantly and rapidly changing, what is ‘in’ one month is ‘out’ the next. It is a real success that second-hand shopping has grown so much in popularity – but there is a worry that this spike in thrifting is just another fad. Our contemporary desire for vintage fashion is being satisfied by buying pre-owned clothing – for now. But what happens when the trend cycle moves on? When some superior fashion entity decides that vintage is no longer cool?

Wanting to own trendy, new clothes is nothing to be ashamed of, but it is now time to adopt a more judicious approach to shopping. Where we source our clothes can be problematic, but how often and in what quantity must also be assessed. A t-shirt from H&M that has been worn and re-worn is ultimately a more sustainable fashion choice than any vintage item that winds up unworn and devoured by moths. The solution is clear: to consider more carefully our own styles and the longevity of the piece of clothing within our wardrobes, before we tap our credit cards.

The sounds of student protest

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On 23rd May 2024 the University, in a public statement, described the work of certain encampment protestors as contributing to “a deeply intimidating environment”.  The words were, no doubt, etched into the consciousness of the 200+ students who occupied an encampment on the lawn of the Radcliffe Camera. It is interesting to consider, then, how much of this ‘intimidation’ was wrought through sound and music. Chants, songs, and a range of live instrumentation – often broadcasted through loudspeakers – were used to create a distinct sonic landscape, but the unheard effects they had on shaping public opinion of the protest should not go unnoticed. 

Sonic territorialisation (when sound is used to signal a group’s occupancy, or attempted occupancy, of a space) is one of the most powerful forms of protest. By leveraging the relationship between physical and sonic space an auditory hierarchy is created. The sonic space is an ever-present, but an abstract one, as sound is inevitable in every environment we inhabit. It is also, being immaterial and uncontainable, one of the hardest dimensions to police. In this case, an auditory hierarchy was established when the protestors brought out loudspeakers. Not only could their chants or demands be heard more clearly as they overpowered the speaker-less authorities, but the power of sound is also demonstrated when it is freed from the constraints of visual reliance. The protestors ascended this imagined hierarchy when their immediate and peripheral space was dominated.

When the University recommended that students sit exams wearing noise-cancelling headphones during Trinity Term last year, providing them with tissue to plug their ears during the exams, the institution was forced to acknowledge the auditory force of protestors. Whilst they could still assert dominance over the physical space of the Examination Schools – through police presence and security checks – the institution struggled to reclaim the sonic landscape, and thus, albeit momentarily, were forced to take notice of saxophone-playing, loudspeaker-chanting student protestors. Anyone who has passed Clarendon Building in Trinity Term 2024 during the callout of names of deceased women and children (a callout that took place again just a few days ago), remembers that the sound does not just travel down Broad Street, but that it echoes against those controversial walls and rings throughout the city. For a moment, the protestors reclaimed some seemingly foreign territory; their monopoly on the sonic space meant that they were in charge of disseminating information to the public. In other words, they were not walled off.  

The reworking of Palestinian folk songs also empowered the body of student protestors. The recontextualisation of Zaffa, a traditional Palestinian wedding chant into a ‘Zaffit El Tahrer’, a song calling for the freedom of Palestine, creates a sonic vernacular that is only truly understood by the protestors themselves. The remix demands a holistic understanding of cultural, historical, and social elements to grasp its nuances. Kokym, the artist, subverts the typical theme of desiring gifts at a wedding to convey the intensity of his wish to see an independent Palestinian flag wave over an Israeli prison. There is a type of bitter irony that comes with using musical tropes associated with such jovial themes: the song is underscored by a carefree ukulele strum, whilst a harrowing plea for liberty runs throughout the song. The conflicting tropes in the piece could reflect an emotion that is unique to the protestors themselves, thereby fostering a stronger sense of community through shared experiences. When sung in a protest, its upbeat nature may seem out of place for passers-by. That, however, is exactly the point. It is unassuming to those who are not part of the cause. 

Sonic protest capitalises off the unexpected, and that is precisely why it is so effective. It ensures, ultimately, that protester’s demands do not fall on deaf ears.

Oxford University Hospitals to miss waiting list targets

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Oxford University Hospitals NHS Foundation Trust (OUH) is on track to miss NHS waiting list targets set to be achieved next year, recent numbers reveal. 

The latest figures from the NHS show that for 3,911 out of 87,600 outstanding treatments, patients had had to wait a year or more for their procedure at OUH – this is around 4.5%. Last year, this figure stood at 2,925. 

This suggests that OUH will fail to meet the NHS ambition that aims to see that “the waits of longer than a year for elective care are eliminated by March 2025.” These targets were laid out as part of the NHS’ plan for dealing with the COVID-19 backlog of elective care (non-urgent and planned medical procedures) released in February 2022. 

At OUH, approximately 55.9% of patients were waiting 18 weeks or less to start treatment. This is better than the average for other hospital trusts, which is 58.3%.The NHS operational standard is 92%. 

The trauma and orthopaedic services had the highest number of treatments waiting a year or more, almost 1000. The urology service had the next-highest, with just over 500 treatments. 

The Care Quality Commission, the independent regulator of health and social care in England, determined that OUH “required improvement” overall in a report published in June 2019, based upon an inspection the prior year. 

Hospital trusts are run by NHS staff but work closely with universities. The OUH consists of the John Radcliffe Hospital, the Churchill Hospital, the Nuffield Orthopaedic Centre, and the Horton General Hospital. In collaboration with the University of Oxford, it is one of the largest teaching trusts in the UK.

History Faculty IT system experiences ‘unauthorised access’

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Oxford University’s History Faculty has experienced “unauthorised access” to its IT system. In response, several systems have been isolated and the IT staff is building a new server. There is no evidence so far that any data has been removed.

Administrative staff worked from home, and the faculty warned that some sources of information “remain inaccessible” for a few days. An undergraduate history student told Cherwell that they could not connect to eduroam in the History Faculty and instead used mobile data. A tutor also attributed delays in the selection of papers to the IT outage.

Department Chair Martin Conway told Cherwell: “The main consequence is that some of the administrative staff have been working off-site with remote access, which is good practice in these circumstances. Teaching and seminars in the Faculty are continuing as normal (with Eduroam access in the Faculty Building). We do not therefore expect there to be any consequences for undergraduates or for our research students.”

The extent of the breach continues to be investigated by the IT team, and its full scale has not yet been determined. The incident has been reported to the Information Commissioner’s office and other appropriate authorities. The faculty also warned students against this risk in their email, stating that if students are contacted by anyone who claims to have access to personal data or information, they should immediately contact the University’s IT services.

A University spokesperson told Cherwell: “The extent of this access continues to be investigated, but, so far, there is no evidence that any data has been removed, or of wider access to other University systems.”

Oxford pub with famed literary past hoping to reopen soon

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The owners of the Oxford pub The Eagle and Child have submitted an application for the renovation of its Grade II listed building. Established over 300 years, it is most famous for being the meeting place for a group of writers called “The Inklings”, which included household names like J. R. R. Tolkien and C. S. Lewis. 

The Eagle and Child was bought from University College by St John’s College in 2003. In early 2020 it closed during the Covid-19 pandemic and has not been re-opened since. 

After prior plans to transform the pub into a hotel were scrapped, in 2023 the Ellison Institute of Technology (EIT), which owns a scientific research campus in Oxford, purchased the Eagle and Child and promised to “refurbish and reopen the iconic venue”.

Notably, the writers’ discussion group met there every Monday or Tuesday for lunch in the lounge “Rabbit Room”. The Inklings, who met throughout the 1930s and 1940s, used these gatherings to share their respective writings and converse. Sections of Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings trilogy were read out within the walls of the pub, and in 1950, Lewis distributed draft copies of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe to the group’s members.

Noteworthy Inklings other than Tolkien and Lewis include Owen Barfield, the philosopher and literary critic, and Hugo Dyson, an academic whose comments to Lewis during a stroll along Addison’s Walk caused the latter’s conversion to Christianity.

The CEO of EIT David Agus said: “We are humbled and proud to be able to safeguard this treasured pub’s future and continue its legacy as a place for brilliant people to come together.”

The EIT’s planned restorations, to be carried out by architectural firm Foster and Partners, include repairing the windows and cleaning the original stonework in order to stop any potential decomposition. Additionally, the EIT plans to remove the conservatory dining space and open a side passageway to the rear garden.

In a document filed by the Oxford City Council, a representative said: “EIT is committed to carrying out sensitive repairs that allow the heritage value of these important Oxford buildings to be celebrated, and once again reopened for residents, tourists, and the wider community to enjoy.”

The application for listed building consent is expected to be granted or rejected by authorities in the coming weeks.

Pest outbreak in St Hugh’s storage damage student property

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Multiple St Hugh’s College students suffered damage to property over the summer vacation due to pest control issues. Students who left items in the college’s storage found them eaten by pests and covered with faeces, rendering some items temporarily or completely unusable. 

St Hugh’s bursar told students in an email the “serious pest control issue” is due to several students storing food with their belongings over the vacation. This, according to him, is “explicitly forbidden on safety grounds” and incurs “substantial costs to bring the facility back into use”.

Some St Hugh’s students anonymously confirmed they had stored food over the vacation or know of people who did. However, not all students whose property was damaged did so.

St Hugh’s student Isabel Warnock told Cherwell: “There was some minor damage to my belongings, some kitchen sponges being completely shredded by the mice and packaging being completely chewed through by the pests. The bigger issue was that many of my belongings were covered in rat faeces”. She continued: “This did not result in lasting damage, but I have friends whose clothing and bedding was affected and became completely unusable.”

In response to this issue, St Hugh’s will arrange to professionally decontaminate the affected facilities later this term. The bursar confirmed that although belongings are stored at “students’ own risk”, the college will arrange the decontamination of affected students’ belongings in the 7th week of term. The college will also reassess the summer storage policy due to the disruption and damage caused.

Warnock told Cherwell: “I feel that the college’s response was reasonable and that they have handled the outbreak well”. She added that other students who she considers to have had more considerable issues than her, “whilst understandably disturbed and irritated by the problem, are also satisfied with the response”.

Magdalen is the most popular college, Mansfield least

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Magdalen College ranks the most popular and Mansfield College is the least applied-for, according to last year’s admissions report. 1,210 applicants hoping to spend their days in the deer park selected Magdalen as their first choice college, while Mansfield received 412 out of 23,211 undergraduate applications. Below Mansfield are Harris Manchester College which admits mature students only and all Permanent Private Halls that offer limited subjects, often with a religious affiliation.

Colleges have moved up and down the ranks of applicant numbers. St John’s College has clearly been working on their outreach – it has moved up 16 places, going from 445 applicants in 2007 to 1,080 in 2023, although its acceptance rate has significantly dropped at the same time, from 26% to 11%.

Some of the most popular colleges were also the wealthiest, although this trend is not universally followed. According to the College Disparities Report, Magdalen College, St John’s, and Christ Church College have the highest net assets per student of the undergraduate colleges. Mansfield, the least popular, had one of the lowest net assets per student of any undergraduate college.

Application rates also vary by subject field. Keble College’s proximity to the STEM faculties perhaps made it an attractive choice for prospective STEM students who dislike walking, as it was the most popular college for Computer Science, Engineering Science, and Physics.

Rowing success does not necessarily translate to popularity: Oriel College’s total of 531 applications in 2023 was far from the head of the river – the college found itself third-last.

PPE continues to be the most popular course, having topped the table for all 16 years. Its most popular colleges were Balliol College, New College, Magdalen, Christ Church, and Brasenose College – indeed these JCR elections have frequented Oxfess. Older colleges were more popular for humanities, with Brasenose receiving the most applications for Classics and Magdalen for History, though the lasagne-esque Keble was most popular for Geography.

2023 continues a slight downturn in overall applicants, from a high of 24,338 in 2021, but appears to be returning to pre-pandemic levels. Throughout, the number of acceptances has remained steady around 3,200 with an acceptance rate of 14%.

Here’s the full rank of colleges by number of applicants, which does not take into account the number of spots accepted.

Magdalen 1,210

Keble 1,189

St John’s 1,080

New 1,051

Brasenose 1,045

Balliol 1,022

Worcester 1,017

Christ Church 1,006

St Catz 925

Univ 873

Hertford 820

Wadham 786

Jesus 767

Pembroke 738

St Hugh’s 734

Somerville 708

Exeter 697

St Anne’s 691

Trinity 690

Teddy Hall 662

LMH 660

Queen’s 659

St Hilda’s 653

Merton 633

Lincoln 620

St Peter’s 610

Oriel 531

Corpus Christi 437

Mansfield 412

Regent’s Park 137

Harris Manchester 137

Wycliffe Hall 9

St Stephen’s House 1

Ripon College Cuddesdon 1

Oxford researchers uncover 450-million-year-old species preserved in fool’s gold

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A team of Oxford researchers led by Associate Professor Dr. Luke Parry uncovered a 450-million-year-old arthropod from a fossil preserved in fool’s gold. This discovery is significant as it helps settle an ongoing debate among palaeontologists about the development of appendages at the front of arthropods’ heads.

An arthropod is an animal with no internal skeleton and the fossil is a distant relative of spiders and scorpions. The fossil, named Lomankus edgecombei and originally discovered in New York,  provides strong support for the hypothesis that the appendages found on the heads of ancient megacheirans did evolve into appendages found on modern arthropods. It also reveals that megacheirans, a group of arthropods, lived much longer than previously thought.

Dr. Parry told Cherwell he initially chose to do a three-dimensional CT scan of the fossil, housed in Yale’s Peabody Museum, because he believed the iron pyrite – also known as fool’s gold – preservation would yield exceptional scan results. Only after analysing the data did he realise the fossil was a new species: “It’s very similar in form to a Cambrian animal called Leanchoilia, but it’s rather fearsome-looking three claws weren’t present in earlier fossils, suggesting the appendage likely served a different function.”

Emphasising the rarity of a 3D fossil, Parry told Cherwell that the majority of fossils from the Cambrian and Ordovician periods (around 540-440 million years ago) are flattened during fossilisation. The soft, shrimp-like Lomankus would normally decay within days, but it survived thanks to a unique combination of conditions where “everything was just right”.

Parry notes that further research could involve making 3D models to study how the appendages would have functioned and is “sure there are lots of new discoveries to come” from this discovery.

Beehives are key to resolving human-elephant conflicts, Oxford researchers found

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Building beehive fences is highly effective in preventing elephants from approaching small-scale farms, an Oxford University study found. The nine-year study was conducted in collaboration with the charity Save the Elephants (STE), the Wildlife Research and Training Institute (WRTI), and Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS). It offers a new nature-based solution to protect both livelihoods and wildlife.

In 2007, people began building fences made of a series of live beehives strung together between posts. The elephants’ natural fear of being stung keeps them away, while the fences also benefit farmers by providing pollination services and generating income through honey and wax production. To date, over 14,000 beehives have been hung as elephant deterrents in 97 sites across Africa and Asia.

Kenya is facing rapid human population growth, with a 82.2% increase between 2000 and 2024, which has led to the shrinking of elephant habitats as human settlements and infrastructure expand. Finding sustainable ways for people and elephants to coexist is becoming an urgent challenge. 

Dr Lucy King, who led the study, explained the complexities of the issue in her recent TED talk: “It’s a massive challenge. I mean, how do you keep seven-ton pachyderms, that often come in groups of ten or twelve, out of these very small rural farms when you’re dealing with people who are living on the very edge of poverty? They don’t have big budgets. How do you resolve this issue?”

While beehive fences are very effective at reducing up to 86.3% of elephant raids when the crops in the farms are at their most attractive, King also warned against future risks: “Our results also warn that increased habitat disturbance or more frequent droughts could reduce the effectiveness of this nature-based coexistence method.”

Director of the WRTI, Dr Patrick Omondi, emphasised the importance of continued research and funding for sustainable solutions: “Kenya is facing increasing challenges with human-elephant conflict, and solutions like beehive fences empower communities to manage their own farm protection. We need more research and support for nature-based solutions to help our communities live better alongside wildlife.”

Looking forward, King is hoping to develop more options for humans and elephants to coexist. She said that they are trying to “get farmers, and women in particular, to think differently about what they’re planting inside their farms”. They are looking at planting crops that elephants don’t particularly want to eat, like chillies, ginger, Moringa, sunflowers. 

The town, the gown, and… the tourists

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Having lived in Oxford for just over a year, I would guess I have marched past hundreds of thousands of tourists. As anyone living in Oxford knows, it is rare to find a day on which the city centre is not full of them. From Magdalen Bridge to the train station and from Christ Church Meadow to the Ashmolean, the pavement is packed with families and groups that constantly stop in the most inconvenient places. And don’t get me started about the Rad Cam.

My relationship with the millions of tourists who visit Oxford every year is, however, more complicated than simple annoyance. In most cases, my feelings towards them depend on how my day is going, the weather, upcoming deadlines, and the latest news updates I read. When everything is bad, I curse the day the Oxford train station was built. I hurry past tourists standing by the Narnia door or near Baliol with quiet scorn. However, when the sky is blue and I have just done something very Oxford-y, the tourists don’t seem so bad. Suddenly, their mysterious looks and not-so-smooth picture-taking remind me of how lucky I am to study here. 

To be honest, both sides of my relationship with tourists have some aspects I am embarrassed to admit. For instance, unless I am super late, I am usually pretty happy to feel like a local in a town people come from all over to see. I imagine this is how true Parisians or New Yorkers must feel when I am the tourist crowding their cities. Even worse, in my heart of hearts, I am happy to study somewhere people admire and idealise. Unlike the gift-shop industry or some colleges (ehm, Christ Church), this fame does not improve my everyday life substantially. Every once in a while, though, it is nice to ride the coattails of Oxford’s fame and be asked about my studies and experience.

It may further be true that my relationship with tourists is tainted by the lack of unique interest my college attracts and from living right outside the city centre. I cannot imagine studying at a college that accepts tourists; it would feel too intrusive. My predicament, then, of living slightly outside the tourists’ zone of interest, may bias my view in their favour. 

If I am completely honest, there is also one other thing that really makes me tolerate them. Seven years ago, I was also a tourist in Oxford. At 16, during a visit to London with friends, we took a day trip from London to see the famous University of Oxford and the beautiful city that surrounds it. At the time, I did not imagine ever calling these streets my home, the library my office, and Cherwell my hobby. For several hours, we walked around, rode bikes, miserably failed at punting, and enjoyed the beautiful parks. It was a great day that did not feel consequential. I most certainly did not buy Oxford merch or “know” I would study here one day. In fact, only several years later, when I started thinking of studying at university, did Oxford return to the front of my mind. Yet that is the point of being a tourist here. You take a quick train from London and arrive in a new, old world. A world of beautiful sandstone buildings, myths and stories, brilliant people, and a distant thought echoing, “Would I be accepted were I to try?”.

So, unless I am very late to a tutorial, I try to remember this feeling. To think of the experience of seeing Oxford for the first time and committing, if only for a day, to the magic of this place. When the sky is blue (or the news especially pleasant), I offer to take a couple’s picture with the Rad Cam. And most of the time, I try to just walk past and not be too bothered.