The White Hart
Wytham
(01865) 244372 The White Hart is set in Wytham, (a treesy hamlet just past
Godstow), and has recently been converted into a gastro pub. The
refurbishment has removed some of its old world charm, and
compared with the cosy, smoky ambience you would expect of a
country pub, it is slightly sterile and soulless. But in the
evening its stone walls are beautifully lit and candles and
simple décor allow it to maintain a rustic feel. To start we had the beef Carpaccio with truffle oil, parmesan,
balsamic vinegar and rocket. The beef was incredibly tender and
the combination of flavours worked well. Although not usually a
fan of fish, the smoked haddock risotto was unbelievable, and the
tomato soup was surprisingly good. The mains were equally impressive. The rump steak was
succulent and was served with creamy mash, although the
overcooked ratatouille let the dish down. The fillet steak,
however, was beautifully presented and combined an unusual and
delicious array of flavours. Although pasta can sometimes
disappoint, the mushroom tortellini with truffle oil and rocket
was delicious and easily competed with the high standard of the
fish and meat. The puddings were more mixed. Both the crème
brulee and the vanilla ice cream were average, but the chocolate
fondant was obscenely good. In general, the menu provided a good variety (despite an
alarming obsession with rocket and balsamic vinegar). The
portions were generous and the standard consistently high. There
was a good choice of affordable red and white wine and the
service was excellent. Although on the pricey side for a pub and even for a
restaurant, the price was only indicative of its quality. Not
only is it the best pub food I have ever tasted, but the best
meal I have had in Oxford. On a free evening I strongly recommend
it; it is worth the taxi ride ten times over.ARCHIVE: 6th week TT 2004
EAT: The White Hart
