by Aaron Borbora
Tucked away between the back of the Westgate Centre and County Hall, Liaison is certainly not one of Oxford’s better-known restaurants. And while "location, location, location" may be the mantra of property buffs everywhere, it certainly does not hold true in the case of Liaison, an establishment which in my opinion should be considered one of the finest Chinese restaurants in the city.
The unimpressive location and slightly grubby exterior are more than made up for by the inside of the restaurant. The dining area is small, but mirrors give an illusion of space. Very comfortable chairs mean that one can easily spend an entire evening here without feeling the urge to wiggle around in one’s seat, making conversation that bit easier. The lighting was low but in a way that added to the atmosphere rather than being a nuisance. Heavy and high-quality tableware and glasses added to the experience of solid quality which the furnishings and fittings exuded.
Right from the beginning the staff were excellent. During the booking process they were very helpful and accommodating and on arrival we were seated quickly and efficiently. Throughout our meal, they were friendly and attentive without being invasive or overbearing. There was a good ratio of staff to diners, meaning we were served promptly.
To drink we had a couple of bottles of house white; in contrast to similar offerings at other restaurants, it was eminently drinkable and, in keeping with the excellent service provided by Liaison, it was at a suitably cold temperature.
The menu offered an extensive, almost bewildering, choice of food from all the expected genres: vegetarian, meat, poultry and seafood. We chose a set meal of three courses in order to sample a cross-section of the offerings. The starter was duck pancake, in which the duck was perfectly sweet and crispy. So generous were the portions that we had to ask for extra sauce and pancake in order to finish the provided duck. The rest of the meal was similarly excellent, in particular the lemon chicken and that old favourite: special fried rice.
In conclusion, Liaison provides a truly first-class dining experience. Both the food and the surroundings are high quality and well-trained staff complete the picture. The menu is expensive – our bill came to just under £66 for two, although by drinking less and ordering a main course rather than a banquet it would be possible to eat far more cheaply – but definitely worth it. As well as getting an excellent meal and an impressed date one gets a huge Liaison-style portion of credit card points!
