As one reads more and more in fashion magazines and style guides, so many distinct voices begin to form a chorus, highly pitched and sanctimonious, the outlines of the programme discernible before the latest repertory has been fully formed. The advice takes the form of ritual chant, as surprising in its variety as the four seasons, the ‘must haves’ for fall as predictable as the floral prints that bloom so reliably every spring.
So it is that one reads how to expand the wardrobe, with precious economy, by pairing more colourful shirts with a staid (and presumably smaller) stable of jackets. While some truth is plainly lurking here, the appeal to thrift puts one immediately on guard, for what is practical is rarely fashionable, therein lying not only the rub but also the pinch, nip, tuck, and even girdle.
The real economy comes from attending to the small parts of the shirt on continuous display, not the bulk kept hidden behind two or three jacket buttons. (Do see our column in Naught Week for questions of fit, the sartorial back stage, or what you might whisper to your tailor before the curtain calls.) Of these the collar is most prominent, where in addition to spread, consider also the width of the collar band, the bit of the shirt that fastens ’round your neck. A deep band accommodates a greater variety of tie fabrics and knots, the most cumbersome of which will protrude above the collar if the band is too narrow, a discomfort that is also unsightly, even worse than merely practical. Otherwise, wider spreads typically look more dashing, especially when the tie is loosened or removed, but fail utterly without the support of collar stays, which your dry cleaner should provide gratis.
Then there are the cuffs, where the choice is typically between French or barrel (the latter close with buttons, not links), but a compromise is available in the ‘cocktail’ cuff, which folds back like the French but over a button closure. French cuffs are generally preferred (they do look more elegant), but three-button barrels are a delightful exception, as is just about anything that bucks a City trend.
Chris Graham
