Little Clarendon Street is known for its string of artisanal cafes, a place where the avocado toast enthusiast is spoilt for choice. Nestled beside Gail’s, The Steamhouse fits right in, serving an array of bagels, coffees, and pastries in accordance with its millennial aesthetic. Its interior is striking, and decidedly Instagrammable. With hanging plants and LED lights, it encapsulates the Pinterest ideal of the hipster cafe, cheerfully accompanied by a soundtrack of 2010s hits.
Unfortunately, I caught them on a bad day – they’ve run out of halloumi… before 1pm. This wouldn’t be too much of an issue if it didn’t form the basis of most of their menu. In fact, halloumi seems to be the main ingredient keeping The Steamhouse afloat. Sorely mourning its loss, I go for the only vegan option available, the VLT, made up of ‘bacon’, lettuce, tomato, and black pepper ‘mayo’. The paucity of choice for vegans, and even vegetarians (with only three vegetarian options, all of which rely on halloumi), seems out of character for an eatery which projects a hipster, LA-style energy. There’s no shortage of options for meat-eaters, however. In fact, the menu almost privileges them, with an entire section dedicated to ‘deluxe’ deli meat bagels, complete with extras. The kitchen, separated from the dining area by only a counter, appeared flustered, quickly overwhelmed around lunchtime, and it took 20 minutes for my bagel to be prepared.
Considering its price, it was a little disappointing, and could have used a more flavoursome sauce, but the bagel itself was perfectly chewy. The tater tots, on the other hand, were a highlight, with a crispy outside and pillowy interior. Regretfully, they do charge extra for sauces (even ketchup), yet the chipotle mayo had just the right kick to enhance the dish. To drink, I got the cherry iced matcha; it was delicious, not overpoweringly sweet as I had feared, although predictably overpriced.
If you have the money (and time) to spend, The Steamhouse is a great place for lunch, with tasty food and laid-back vibes. A takeaway bagel eaten in the nearby Wellington Square on a sunny day makes for a great picnic – the proximity to G&D’s for a supplementary sweet treat is an added bonus. But without a student discount, and especially during a shortage of the halloumi on which they rely so much, the aesthetic alone might not be enough to keep the steam rolling.
Price: All bagels priced at £8.50, tater tots (£3.00), cherry iced matcha (£4.95).
