Nestled under the antiquated sign of a Victorian chemist in Cowley, a short trek for city-centre dwellers, Arbequina is almost certainly one of the best places to eat in Oxford. Bookings are much sought after – they’re only open for three days a week – but your time and effort is well rewarded.
The Arbequina olive tree is native to Cataluña, but the culinary influence extends well beyond the region. The North African twist of molasses and pomegranate that accompanies the more conventionally European grilled aubergine and whipped feta ensures that no depth of flavour is left neglected – smoky, creamy, tart, and sweet like an exemplar dish from Salt Acid Fat Heat.
Some fine dining fanatics insist that no ingredient should be reused on the same menu, but why do that when pomegranate is so delicious? The roast cauliflower that sits on a purée of the same vegetable, topped with hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds follows the same formula as the aubergine just as successfully.
If you’re getting tired of vegetables, the crispy chickpea salad offers a beautiful alternative to the soft plant flesh you’ve been tucking into so far. Dressed simply with yoghurt and chilli butter that coats each individual pulse, it’s the perfect foil to the richer dishes that otherwise dominate the meal (and tapas in general).
Evidently, the menu is fantastic for vegetarians, but carnivores and pescatarians are also well catered for. The rhyming Sobrasada tostada is delicately spiced with the traditional, expected players and offset just as softly by a drizzle of honey and a dash of thyme.
It would be a crime to leave without having sampled their desserts – though the savoury options are the stars of the show. The Instagram-viral Burnt Basque cheesecake may sound enticing, but I would steer you towards the Santiago tart or the honey and lavender Panna Cotta with mangos and tortas de aceite.
The drinks menu is somehow just as well-rounded as the food one, and under-appreciated on their social media. Sporadic posts and stories come along, but there should really be essays on the basil gimlet and the autumn mezcalita. The alcohol-free options are just as tempting – the pick of the bunch would have to be the grapefruit and rosemary spritz.
It’s certainly on the pricey side, but perfect for a special occasion. With a new location opening in the Covered Market, I would get booking for the next time the parents come to visit.
What we ate:
Aubergine & whipped feta (£9.50), Roast cauliflower (£12.50), Crispy chickpea salad (£10), Sobrasada tostada (£8.50), Honey & lavender panna cotta (£8).
