Luna Caprese
4 North Parade
(01865) 554 812 I have always thought it one of the most elusive and charming
of mysteries that, for many people with no Italian blood
whatsoever, entering a gloriously Italian restaurant somehow
feels like coming home. Luna Caprese, despite being located on
foreign soil, is quite possibly the most glorious of them all.
Its owner, Luis Castro, has been serving the specialities of his
homeland with the same flair and dedication for 42 years.
Maritime murals and twinkling strings of lights festoon the
walls; the room seems to recall some forgotten Caprean grotto.
Yet, the homely edges of the place only serve to enhance its aura
of refinement – who could fail to be captivated by the party
menu which, due to a printing error, proposes ‘Salmonella
Luna Caprese’ in elegant script? The service is immaculate – Luis announces his specials
with an eloquence and dash which would have held the ancient
Roman senate rapt. He is no empty orator – the vision he
spread before our eyes was promptly incarnated in a succession of
exquisite dishes. I have always suspected meat to be most Italian
chefs’ Achilles heel, yet both the sirloin and the veal were
amazingly tender and seasoned with impressive restraint. Although
you could confidently choose any meat or fish dish, the steak
cooked in a creamy green pepper sauce and the decidedly sexy
seafood linguine get my especial vote. The strawberries smothered
in zabaglione which I had for dessert are summer itself distilled
in a bowl. Prices are fair without exception and are comparable
to those found at Oxford’s faintly generic French chain
restaurants. I don’t have the heart to devise a spurious criticism
which would lend my review the desirable air of objectivity
– and besides, any accusations of partiality might prove
lamentably well-founded. I left Luna Caprese having been treated,
as their guests invariably are, like a member of the family, and
am determined to defend my new clan with Italian tenacity and
enthusiasm.ARCHIVE: 4th week TT 2004
EAT: Luna Caprese
