Friday, May 23, 2025
Blog Page 1109

A Cinderella Story

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Reading the dress code for an Oxford ball can make one feel the need to raid the closet of James Bond or a modern Jane Austen character. Balls are not only an excuse to drink and dance the night away, but also to show off a stunning black suit or gorgeous new dress. Unfortunately, the costs add up, especially considering the dress code. 

A complete evening tail suit hire from Walters costs £85 while an Ede & Ravenscroft waistcoat purchase alone is £95 (one of the cheapest components — the tailcoat rings in at £695 and the white-tie optional black top hat costs £350), meaning that rental is usually the best option.

Women can also hire ball gowns, though it’s less common. Instead, hours upon hours are spent in shops, trying to find the perfect dress. And, of course, wearing one dress to several occasions means committing a major fashion faux pas, easily noticed thanks to social media.

Not only can the high cost of appropriate attire match that of a ball ticket, but it can feel exclusive. Don’t get me wrong: if a student can afford to go to ten balls a year without breaking the bank, I say go for it. But for those who can’t, dress shopping on a budget serves as a great reminder of what they don’t have. To their infinite credit, many ball committees work hard to ensure that each ball is the experience of a lifetime rather than a reminder of socioeconomic status, especially by pairing with hire companies to help save students money.

The New College Commemoration Ball committee is working on just that, as theirs will be one of the few white tie balls this academic year. The white tie dress code was chosen for tradition, as well as the once-in-a-lifetime feel. “While not common-place, people may well attend other black tie events while at University or afterwards, whereas most New College students will only attend a Commemoration Ball a maximum of once,” a spokesman for the committee said. 

As a Junior Year Abroad student, I can’t help but contrast this with my home university, where long dresses are almost always casual summer maxis instead of gowns and full suits, never mind tuxedos, are a rare species. The last time I donned an outfit considered appropriate for a ball was my senior prom three years ago, and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited about the prospect of a formal evening at a ball or that I would be disappointed if my home university started such a tradition.

Unfortunately, there is no easy way to reconcile this: the cost of attending a black tie or white tie event can be daunting and the idea that women need a different dress for each occasion can easily contribute to a throw-away culture, but what would a ball be if everyone looked like they were headed to Wahoo after? The charm rivals the price, and unless we do manage to break into 007’s or Elizabeth Bennet’s closet, there may be no simple solution to the noninclusive nature of Oxford balls.

Initiation

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Photography: Richard Wakefield

Concept and Styling: Emily Pritchard

Artistic Direction: Emmanuelle Soffe

Props: Virginia Russolo

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Location: Balliol dining hall

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Silver sequin dress, left, River Island. Gold maxi, centre, Miss Selfridge.

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White chain collar dress, Topshop.

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Gold T-Shirt dress, left, Asos. Metallic slip dress, centre, Asos. White chain collar dress, as before, Topshop.

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Silver dress, Missguided.

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Rose patterned metallic dress, left, Miss Selfridge. Silver dress, as before, Missguided.

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Rose patterned metallic dress, left, Miss Selfridge. Gold maxi, as before, Miss Selfridge. Metallic slip dress, as before, Asos.

All animal heads constructed from designs by Wintercroft, http://wintercroft.com

Models:

Irenne Ighodaro

Daniella Schutze

Angelina Eddington

Jem Bosatta

Fashion assistant: Michael Lucero 

 

Gant: Change the world, not the shirt

Photography: Ben Bransbury-Hare

Styling & Production: Emily Pritchard

Styling & Artistic Direction: Emmanuelle Soffe

Approached at the end of summer by all-American brand GANT, we wanted to do two things with our fashion supplement; showcase GANT’s range of autumn/ winter clothing, and explore the tagline “Change the World, Not the Shirt.”

Explore the range at http://www.gant.co.uk

You can’t beat the crisp, plain lines of a beautiful white shirt; styled over or under other layers, tucked in or out, classic or slightly quirky. Using some of the most beautiful locations in Oxford (all indoor shots taken at the Oxford Union), we created a classic background against which the tailoring and quality of the GANT clothing speaks for itself.

Here, we approached five Oxford undergraduates, all studying for different degrees, and all making waves in their creative involvement outside of their respective courses.

Tom Humphrey

Tom started developing apps at the age of 15. At 17, he had developed his own language learning app, Lingo. In Trinity term of his first year at Oxford, Tom and his best friend Freddie created ‘Social 150’, a social network “for the people you care about.” In just 24 hours, it racked up 10,000 hits.

Tom wears:

GANT Academic Oxford Shirt- White
GANT Cotton Wool Crew Sweater
GANT Chip Moleskine Jeans
Nicole Rayment
Discovered on YouTube by X-Factor mentor Sinitta in 2011, Nicole’s girl band Say No More opened for JLS, Jessie J and Union J in front of 25,000 people at the Madejski stadium in Reading. Scouted by M+P models when in London, Nicole’s modelling career is soaring.
Nicole wears:
GANT Diamond G- The pinpoint Oxford shirt- White
GANT Kate super stretch denim jeans- Dark blue worn in
GANT Double breasted coat- Grey
GANT winter shores turtleneck sweater- Sage
Electra Lyhne-Gold
Electra is an Art student at the Ruskin. Having spent the summer working in London art galleries and regularly attending auctions, Electra likes to create fictional narratives within her artwork. She paints from her own dramatically-staged photographs, inspired by Vermeer and film stills from the 50s and 70s. Electra then transfers these into short films.
Electra wears:
GANT Scalloped Collar poplin shirt- White
GANT Velvet Dress- Navy
GANT flat cable jumper- Cream
Henry Tudor Pole
Henry is a member of the Oxford-based band ‘Keep it Trill’. Playing specifically jazz, blues and funk, the band are fast gaining popularity after performances this year at both the Union and MedSoc balls.
Henry wears:
GANT blue fitted poplin shirt
GANT Green lambswool cable crewneck sweater
GANT The Harrison coat- brown/ green
GANT Brown tailored urban comfort pants
With special thanks to:
Michael Lucero, fashion assistant
Sheri Scott at Betty and Bee
The Oxford Union
Check out GANT’s extensive collection:

FOI requests uncover Oxford pay

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Following a nationwide investigation by the TaxPayers’ Alliance, it has been revealed that many UK university staff receive six-figure annual salaries. In staff pay league tables, Oxford is near the top. The university maintains this is necessary to maintain its high academic standards.

As part of a broad-based campaign to promote taxpayers’ right to transparently evaluate how their money is being spent, the Tax Payers’ Alliance has made a series of Freedom of Information requests to UK universities. The result of this investigation has been an unexpectedly high proportion of academic staff and offi cials receiving six-figure salaries.

Out of the 7554 employees earning at least £100,000pa, 622 work for Oxford University, approximately double the number of six figure salary staff at Cambridge. One Oxford payee, earning £630,000pa, took second place on the individual staff members’ high pay league table.

High pay is not restricted to Oxbridge, with London Metropolitan University’s former Vice Chancellor earning over £600,000pa.

A University spokesperson told Cherwell that high pay packages are necessary to remain the world’s second-best academic institution. As a consequence of its position as “a global leader for research and teaching”, the “exceptional minds” the University is looking to attract are “also sought-after by international competitors”. Protecting Oxford University’s acquired status of excellence and potentially rising up the league tables ultimately requires the organisation to “reward their talent appropriately”, the spokesperson said.

The TaxPayers’ Alliance warns the high tuition fees currently paid by students make it imperative that tax money is spent according to academic merit. Chief executive of the Alliance, Jonathan Isaby, told Cherwell, “It is vitally important that money is not wasted [particularly since] the tax burden is very high …for those on low incomes (including students).”

The Alliance values transparency in university affairs and insists on the importance of a system in which “hard-working taxpayers can judge whether they are getting value for money from the public sector’s senior employees”.

Children’s services cuts planned

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Last Saturday, 500 protesters marched across Oxford city centre place to fight against proposed reforms to children’s services across Oxfordshire. The potential changes notably include the closure of all children’s centres through cuts in funding to the Oxfordshire County Council’s Early Intervention budget.

The proposals would close all 44 childcare centres in Oxford to achieve a £8 million saving by the 2016-17 budget. Despite the extensive cuts to children’s services planned, the council would still be obliged to provide some services by law, such as services to children on child protection plans.

Although Oxford University students with children are currently able to use nurseries at Balliol, Wolfson, Somerville and St Anne’s Colleges, access across other colleges is limited. However since these nursery services are distinct from the children’s services currently offered by the council, even student parents at these childfriendly colleges would likely be affected by the proposed changes.

Replacing the existing centres would be eight ‘Children and Family’ centres, which the council claims would “support children and their families who need help and will integrate the work of the Children’s Centres, the Early Intervention Hubs and Children’s Social Care”. Many of Saturday’s demonstrators have been vocally critical of this measure, protesting that these new centres would be available by referral only. The current children’s services provide universal access.

The ‘Save Oxfordshire’s Children’s Centres’ campaign, “a concerned group of parents with young children, child minders, grandparents and the general public”, has also emerged to condemn the proposals. In a recent statement, the campaign raised concerns about the ambiguity of any departure from the current system, stating, “there is no information on who will be able to access the services if any of the three proposals is implemented”.

Tamsin Browning, a childcare service user and campaigner, highlighted the plight of parents who move to Oxford for work and careers. “Lots of people who move here for work only have networks relating their jobs. After having a child, this means people can become very isolated and at higher risk of post-natal depression.”

Browning also raised broader concerns about the implication of proposals, telling Cherwell, “I don’t think the government really understands the pressure they’re putting the council under by cutting services like old people’s homes or subsidised bus routes – these are really important services. I think it will lead to so much more need in the future. I want to live in a society that looks after the most needy. The children’s centres were a lifeline to me and are one of the few places you can go to with a community. That’s the kind of world I want my son to grow up in, where people care for each other through these centres.

Another childcare service user, Jah Huish, highlighted the particular issue of accessibility in Oxfordshire, with its mix between urban and rural. “We want to see all 44 services open. You are supposed to be able to walk to your children’s centre.”

Huish went on to suggest what the longer term effect of the cuts could be. “By the time my daughter gets to primary school children will be so bogged down which should have been caught by child services. There will be less time to actually teach. It will also create a huge strain on nurseries which will have to provide 30 hours of care per child.”

Oxford University research on children’s centres was recently published in a report on child services entitled ‘Organisation, services and reach of children’s centres’, concluding that children’s centres are an effective means of reaching vulnerable children.

Pembroke concerns over security

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Students at Pembroke have expressed concerns to the college over security and safety at Pembroke’s off site accommodation, the Geoffrey Arthur Building (GAB), following a number of bike thefts just outside and a lack of lighting on the towpath and Folly Bridge on St Aldate’s.

Residents of Pembroke’s annex have also raised issue with security cameras outside of the building, which do not work. However, the GAB does have an ‘airlock’ double gate entrance to avoid tail-gating and there have been no thefts from within the grounds of the GAB for three years. Pembroke College has been corresponding with students regarding those issues raised.

Helena Gilchrist, a third-year undergraduate living in the GAB, told Cherwell, “I can understand that crime rates may not be higher in the area in comparison to around college, but that does not mean that the crime rates are low. In college it is very easy to get to the porters quickly, whereas here it is much harder. The walk – which is lit for the entirety of the journey-back suggested by college is sensible, however we feel that it is unrealistic to expect all students to walk back this way as it adds an extra 10-15 minutes to the walk.

“Apparently they don’t have lights on the bridge because 15 years ago people didn’t want the added light keeping them awake. I think it’s ridiculous that the issue hasn’t been addressed in 15 years when safety is an on-going issue. The same goes for the redundant security cameras. I think that our perception of safety is important, regardless of statistics. Being students at university with little other option of places to live, feeling safe is important to minimize stress levels in an already highly pressurized environment.”

JCR President Joseph McShane commented, “We have been promised cooperation on the issue and this is the approach that we really want to take as working with the council on issues such as these is considerably easier with the support of college.”

The home bursar at Pembroke, Mike Naworynsky, commented, “On an annual basis we ensure that all students are given advice and information about safety and security in and around the city centre. As part of that process we give specific advice to students who live in our Annex, mainly due to the proximity of the river, and we point out the potential risks of travelling alone at night anywhere in the city. We strongly recommend certain routes and sensible precautions in line with experience of the area. In addition, we have resident Junior Deans who are available to talk to students if necessary and we engage with students on a one-to-one basis if there are any particular concerns.

“There have been no reports of serious crime in the area of our buildings; in September 2015, there were three reported minor crimes in the area close to our Annex and three reports in the vicinity of the College main site. We have suffered from issues such as bike thefts, which are endemic in Oxford, and we offer excellent advice on how to prevent bikes being stolen as well as providing secure bike racks within our sites and access to discounted high security locks.

Pembroke also added, “Ad Hoc meetings are held as required (with the next meeting due to take place on the 23rd November) where students can raise concerns directly with the Home Bursar.”

On behalf of the City Council, Councillor Bob Price told Cherwell, “No one from Pembroke has raised safety issues with the local councillors. The City Council has no real locus on safety issues: the County Council deals with street lighting and highways/footpath matters and the police with ASB (Anti-Social Behaviour) and fear of crime. “There is a considerable incidence of drug dealing in that area and the police do what they can to disrupt it, but the cuts in their numbers have definitely resulted in less patrolling

Mondrian, the Abstract and Fashion

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Vogue Paris 1965.

Yves Saint Laurent has once again designed an item of clothing that every woman in the western world would pay a lot of money to get their hands on. It is unusual for Vogue to have full-length shots of a model on the cover of their magazine, and even more unusual to have the model tilted at an angle. Vogue Paris of September 1965 has then, done so for a reason. The dress that the mannequin is wearing is clearly of some vast importance. It is a familiar design, to people then as now. We recognise the crossing over of geometrical lines, boxes of red, yellow and blue colour. A Mondrian artwork of course! Everyone is familiar, to an extent, with Mondrian. Even now Mondrian’s influence remains heavy in the world of fashion. Nike’s Dunk Low sneakers or their Vans competitors are just two examples.

Mondrian merchandise is endless, and this is perhaps because there is something timeless about Mondrian’s designs; they do not, cannot, grow old. It is ironic that it so often manifests itself in the fashion industry; an industry which is itself a process of seasonal ageing. The fashion industry clings onto Mondrian’s timelessness, and this in itself reveals the importance that lies behind the surface of his art. Mondrian noted himself that his neo-plasticism influence extended out a great deal more to poster art, advertising, layout and industrial designs, than to painting or sculpture.

Vogue Paris’ 1965 cover is important therefore, in revealing something particular of Mondrian’s work, as opposed to Mondrian’s influence on Yves Saint Laurent or fashion as an entity. The white edges of the dress blend into the background of the white studio; the model and the background become one. The way she is tilted at an angle gives her the appearance of a cut-out paper doll, pinned to a background. Even the caption title ‘Collections Hiver 65’ runs out onto the white of the dress . The way her head is at an unnatural angle, with a large round earring, heightens the illusion that she has been pinned to some sort of board. The effect is that there is no sense of depth to the picture. The paper-cut-out doll is pinned to the surface of the magazine cover, and there is no separation between the dress, her body, and the background. This is a play of depth which Mondrian would, had he still been alive in 1965, vastly approved of. This has however changed in some more recent Mondrian adaptions in the fashion-industry, such as Francesco Maria Bandini for example.

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His designs take Mondrian entirely out of context and have created them into moving, walking three-dimensional sculptures. The black lines of Mondrian’s work that we are so familiar with, reach out into the space around the model. Bandini has subverted what I believe, to be fundamentally at the heart of the abstractedness of Mondrian’s art; the loss of depth and three-dimensional space.
Or has he?

Take Mondrian’s ‘New York City 1’, completed 1942.
The criss-crossing symmetry of yellow strips, underlined by blue and red, is cut off by a grey border line. Yet the seemingly white background beneath these grid-like patterns is not in fact, properly white. There is a tinge of grey which is only a few tones lighter than the borderline. The effect is that there is no sense of depth within the picture, but strangely, the lines seem to spring out towards the viewer instead. “The white is not flat enough” Mondrian complained once to his friend Naum Gabo in relation to ‘New York City 1’.

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Mondrian’s paintings prevent any possibility of entrance at all. The frame is set behind the canvas, pushing the area forward instead of letting the spectator into the wall. The geometrical lines he uses instead, push out towards the viewer; therefore rather than giving the impression of pictorial inner three-dimensionality, he instead creates exterior fourth dimensionality. Returning to Francesco Maria Bandini’s fashion designs, one begins to see why Bandini may have used the black lines from Mondrian’s canvas as a three-dimensional element to the outfits. These lines do in fact, jump out at the viewer; whether from the canvas, or from the runway show.

So can the destruction of depth and space within the canvas, account for Mondrian’s move towards abstraction? I think so, yes. Through his move away from depth, Mondrian developed his abstract philosophy and characteristic style that we identify with him today. Most importantly, there is arguably a parallel between Mondrian’s concept of pictorial depth and the notion of time.

What he has created in his art is an accumulation of centuries; into one moment, into a single object. Time is directed back to depth. If time is reality (time being the past manifest in the present), and time is parallel to pictorial depth, then the removal of pictorial depth from his canvas both strips it of age and renders it immortal; whilst abandoning it to a new-born notion (a Mondrian notion) of what reality is, or should be.

Correspondently this is once again reflected in Mondrian’s legacy in the fashion industry. People still wear Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian collection, if they can afford to get their hands on the originals. Mondrian designs are echoed throughout the decades of fashion, even last summer’s Victoria’s Secret Mondrian-inspired bikini range being one example of many. Mondrian’s designs are ageless and timeless; but this was always his intention. He wanted to destroy time, in the same way he wanted to destroy space and depth; and in doing so, has immortalised his subjective philosophy on the objectivity of time, emotion, art, life and reality.   

 

An Orgy Won’t Keep You Warm At Night

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At 1h 20min, Lone Scherfig’s One Day (2011) presents what ought to, by Hollywood movie standards, constitute climax and resolution: the big kiss. It’s the kind of scene that would, were this a 1990s movie and the character of Dexter played by Hugh Grant, entail a gentle pull back, unobtrusively allowing Paris to swell around the at-last-united lovers while they savoured that swooning embrace. The sun would blaze, or the rain would pour, or the leaves would fall in swirls of amber and gold. The image would linger. The premise upon which the genre is built — that love is a happy inevitability — would stand firm.

But Scherfig directed her adaptation of David Nichols’s bestselling novel during this millennium, and the Danish director has never been known to toe the line of convention. Jim Sturgess plays Dexter. Unlike Grant — who only attempted the “bad guy” persona in Bridget Jones’s Diary after safely securing his Loveable Brit reputation in a slew of rom-coms like Four Weddings and a Funeral and Notting Hill — Sturgess has no aversion to playing a leading man who, for at least three-fifths of the movie, is most accurately described as obnoxious. He performs opposite Anne Hathaway, who brings her usual witty warmth to the part of Emma.

Anyway: the scene. Following this kiss, we find ourselves, not fading away to a credits sequence cheerfully soundtracked by Elvis Costello (as might be expected), but suctioned back to London. Time has moved forward a year. Dexter and Emma are elated. This is life post-Happily Ever After; and, as they snuggle in the harbour of Dexter’s fledgling business, finally cohesive after nearly two decades of will-they-won’t-they torment, “After” looks as blissful as you’d hope for.

Then time moves forward a little bit more. They are struggling slightly: fertility problems. Emma is in a bad mood; Dexter makes an effort to quell it. Hope prevails anyway, because these two, we know, are meant to be together; and now they finally know it too, nothing can compromise their destiny as soulmates.

Then Emma dies.

When I first watched One Day, I was sixteen. I hated it intensely. It cheated me. The ending felt unfair, like a punch in the gut after an arduous, heart-wrenching, ultimately dissatisfying uphill journey (and Rotten Tomatoes confirms I wasn’t alone in this verdict). Dexter was an idiot. Emma deserved better. Dexter should have realised on graduation night, or at least soon after they had left university, that he and Emma were a “perfect union of opposites”, just like the slightly tacky tattoo stamped next to his ankle. Why did Emma waste her time on him, when she so clearly had at least double his IQ? Meanwhile, Dexter — supposedly the leading man — spent a considerable portion of the narrative off his face on cocaine. Sorry, but could you imagine Hugh Grant or Colin Firth doing the same?

To top it all off, Emma’s death totally unhinged the symbiosis that I, having grown up on a diet of Richard Curtis movies, felt was necessary to give a ‘romcom’ or ‘chick flick’ (terms I am reluctant to assign movies, but mildly indicative nonetheless) satisfying completion. What was the point of making a film about romance, only to shatter the fantasy with a brutally unforgiving ending, soaked in unassailable grief?

As time has moved along in my own life, however, my feelings toward the movie have changed dramatically. It is now, by far, my favourite in its genre. The difficulty of the film is, despite much critical resistance, actually its greatest coup: it presents a desirable and undesirable form of love in one package. Desirable because their love endures time. Undesirable for the same reason. That, of course, is the power of its structure, which is both Scherfig’s achievement and Nichols’s. When other movies have taken up with similar themes — “philandering guy’s best female friend is perfect for him; it takes him a while (and, usually, the threat of losing her to somebody else) to see the situation clearly”— the temporal design in those movies has often been significantly less harrowing.

Take, for instance, Made of Honor (2008). Here, Patrick Dempsey and Michelle Monaghan play the fated pals in that familiar When Harry Met Sally (1989) style. This movie is, in many ways, a tribute to that one, and to the indefatigable backdrop of New York City; where, for every yellow cab caught in traffic, there is apparently an epic romance waiting to be served up in schmaltz and polystyrene coffee cups, with just a hint of Sinatra on the side. As in One Day, Made of Honor builds its story on the supposedly universal truth that Harry delivers to Sally: “men and women can’t ever just be friends because the sex part always gets in the way.” In that earlier movie, over one hour of our time / several years of theirs passes, and sex does indeed get in the way. Sally hates Harry, which of course means she loves him, and Harry’s life confirms his own truth. Reconciliation ensues.

(Companionship x Forever) + Sex = Happy Ending.

Of course, Harry’s “truth” is a wholly reductive one: real life amply demonstrates how men and women can sustain platonic relationships. But for the purposes of the friendships which are sculpted into sellable movies, there is always a latent erotic impulse churning away under the leads’ interactions. Made of Honor establishes the foundations for Tom and Hannah’s friendship in a perfunctory teaser scene at the beginning, before glibly skipping over time: everything that happens onscreen from hereon in occurs ten years ahead, with the movie’s director mercifully sparing us an excruciating, decade-spanning trajectory of missed opportunities. It’s enough to anchor Tom and Hannah to the past without dwelling on it; unlike One Day, the texture of this movie — light, slick, capery — would not have borne that well. In Made of Honor, it is sufficient simply to know that best friends are always meant for one another because films like When Harry Met Sally have already told us so.

For me, this blurs the dichotomy between blessing and curse. Made of Honor is easy, palatable, enjoyable viewing, because the weight of time doesn’t press as suffocatingly on us as it does in One Day. One Day is many things to me, but I would never describe it as “easy”. On the other hand, Made of Honor‘s structure carves a hollowness into the alchemy between Tom and Hannah, which for Dexter and Emma is impossible: their blossoming is too often on the cusp, and the relatively short time they spend aware of their status as soulmates, compared to the time we spend knowing it while watching them suffer through subpar romantic entanglements, is what makes the abrupt termination of that relationship so absolutely traumatic. True, When Harry Met Sally also forces us to suffer the bittersweetly compelling motions of time; but the tour through the years pays off when we see them riding off into the metaphorical sunset together. One Day gives us that sweet relief only to snatch it away again.

What, exactly, is so appealing about such narratives? It seems absurdly narrow-sighted to assume they merely satiate a masochistic impulse in audience members who identify with Emma. Not everyone who enjoys these films harbours a suppressed desire to build their life with a member of the opposite sex whom they happen to be close friends with (though I’m aware plenty do). Yet moviemakers, and the novelists or storytellers they collaborate with, return to this bare thread of love and explore it repeatedly. Why?

One supposes that movie producers seek such stories out because they confirm a reassuring vision of love: one where chemistry is a social thing before it is a physical one. Sexual tension in these movies is paramount, but sex itself is subordinate to the primary USP of the focal relationship: the emotional bond between the characters. The reactive senses of humour, the mutually-serviceable altruism, and above all, the proven ability to go through the worst of times and come out at the end with an undiminished need to share space in each other’s lives — such is the stuff of most fantasies, and also, incidentally, the ingredients required to brew a fairly sparkling screenplay. The dialogue between friends, you might notice in most films, is usually far bouncier than the dialogue between straight-up lovers. It’s odd, but possibly a little telling about the human condition, that cinema wants to assure us so badly that it really isn’t always about what’s hot. In these limited, crystallised cinematic versions of heterosexual romance, the secondariness of sex itself is oddly vital.

As for One Day, it ascends beyond those it shares characteristics with precisely because it refuses to dance to the piper. I interviewed Scherfig once and asked her why her movies tend towards nonconventional denouements. Her reply? “It’s the choice between the Hollywood ending… or something more complex”. Not every director sets out a vision of their work which accurately corresponds with what we see onscreen, but I feel for Scherfig, who has always avoided the occasionally stifling cogs and wheels of L.A., this is a true representation of a consistent commitment found across her curriculum vitae. One Day is a template solution to the oft-cited problem of the “death of the rom-com”: a film which dares to present true romance as something we really can miss out on. Dexter’s story — for, in the end, One Day is one man’s bildungsroman — is the tale, not of how we fall in love, but of how we live in love, even when we’re blind to it.

Don’t wait forever, the film gently urges. Because, ultimately, your fairytale is your own responsibility. Or, as Dexter and Emma remark: an orgy won’t keep you warm at night, and an orgy won’t look after you when you’re old. A friend, on the other hand…

Once Upon A Time In America

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Should you have four hours to spare any time soon (unlikely, but still), there are worse things you could do than grace Once Upon a Time in America with your attention. If it sounds vaguely familiar, that may be because Italian classical singer Andrea Bocelli recently duetted with pop singer Ariana Grande on a fairly successful interpretation of a famous piece from Ennio Morricone’s original score for the movie. The song is very lovely, but does slight justice to the original in context. Morricone is a film composer of deserved erudition, and this is, arguably, his most devastating score.

But there are other reasons for visiting this movie besides wanting to access Morricone’s musical arrangements.

Put simply, to visit and revisit Once Upon a Time in America is to aid its healing process — a collaborative effort that has been underway for over two decades now. The movie is one of the most tragic cases in cinema history; its production/reception and its fraught, fragile relationship with time outside the film only helps to colour the thematising of time that goes on within the film, making it, especially in context, one of the most painfully beautiful works of art in western cinema.

It began life as a passion project of the grandest, most Italian kind, as befits a movie directed by Sergio Leone, who is perhaps better known for adding his particular brand of glamour to ‘spaghetti westerns’ like Once Upon a Time in the West and The Good, The Bad and the Ugly. It was, in fact, to be his first and only venture away from that genre. Leone spent seven years fomenting his translation Harry of Grey’s book, The Hoods. It was his last movie; upon its completion and release, he retired from the business and died shortly afterwards. That he never lived to see the movie rehabilitated and restored to some of its former glory (the film re-premiered at Cannes in 2012, thanks to the painstaking efforts of committed cinephile Martin Scorsese) only adds to the peculiar poignancy of its story.

The film is a gangster film, although that definition should be used cautiously; yes, it is a movie about a small brotherhood of Jewish mobsters who make it big, and lose it all, in prohibitionera New York. But to paraphrase what Jean Baudrillard said about the U.S.A.: only non-Americans can actually “see” America for what it really is, and, more crucially, isn’t. Leone was not born and raised in the States the way that, say, Scorsese was, and so his America is product of a romanticising outsider’s imagination. Despite its cold brutality in some places, and its sheer violence in others, there is an ineffable quality to this movie which largely obscures the criminality of the main characters from view.

Instead, Leone communicates an eloquent love letter to that concept which he, as a European, could appreciate but never wholly grasp — the American Dream. Its fatalities and flaws are rendered as beautifully as its ideals. For Leone, the American Dream is mediated by and intersected through friendship, family and loyalty, and so what we get is not a gangster film so much as a film about a gang. It is unlike any other movie in its genre; in fact, it is barely of its genre, and perhaps one of the best genre films ever made because of that. Had the fates not intervened, and Once Upon a Time in America gotten the recognition it deserved, it might have even eclipsed The Godfather and reigned the landscape of mobster films.

Tonini’s cinematography is lyrical and hazy, just like the music and just like memory itself: the central motif of the whole film. Starring Robert de Niro as Noodles, James Woods as Max, and Elizabeth McGovern as Deborah — with a teenage Jennifer Connelly in her breakout role as McGovern’s younger self — Once Upon a Time in America obsesses over the implications and biases of time throughout. De Niro’s elderly protagonist arrives in New York with a mystery invitation after several decades’ absence; in extended flashbacks, which become a theme in their own right, the man’s life, from childhood through to twilight years, is more or less comprehensively conveyed. Regret, growth, change, return: all become the fabric woven into the movie’s tapestry. It’s indulgent, but not irritatingly so. Pauline Kael called it kitsch, but she said it in a way to suggest even kitsch has its merits.

Yet, ironically, that flashback structure — the central hinge upon which the film hangs its meaning — was denied the film upon its entry to the US (it initially debuted a ‘European cut’ which had already excised over two hours’ of Leone’s footage; the director deemed this version an acceptable contraction of his epic vision). The Ladd Company, who were distributing the movie in the States, went against the director’s will and shaved down those 220+ minutes to a meagre 139; they also distorted the sequence of the film to give it a more linear structure. Through attempts to make the order of things more logical, they effectively annihilated everything the film stood for. Kael called it “one of the worst cases of [film] mutilation” she had ever seen; certainly the movie bombed at the box office, and it never recovered the gravitas its initial European cut deserved — at least not until many years later, and with Leone too long gone to see it.

The scars may never fully disappear, but one likes to think the movie’s wounds have largely healed by now: the restoration was met with great enthusiasm from cinema enthusiasts and professionals alike, and the movie’s quiet cult following over the decades has ensured its blossoming into a contender on many “greatest gangster movies” lists. Yet the cautionary tale of both the movie’s interior and exterior history dances through it like a spectre that cannot disappear: time, always, is running out.

Legends of the Screen: James Woods

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If you don’t know James Woods, well, don’t worry about it. You’re not alone. The sixty-eight-year-old is one of those actors: the ones so good at what they do, you miss their star quality, either because they’ve sunk into a role so deeply it’s obscured their celebrity potential, or because they’ve played fiercely against a bigger billing name — occasionally acting their opponent off the screen. Think Gary Oldman or Ralph Fiennes: Woods is their precursor.

What’s particularly bittersweet about Woods is that the late recognition which finally found Oldman and Fiennes has pretty much evaded him. He’s a household name… but only if you happen to live in the kind of household which devours Hollywood trivia. Early in his career, Woods earned an Oscar nomination for starring in Salvador. Otherwise, he seems to have paved his way playing supporting roles to their maximum hilt. You probably saw him most recently — if you’re inclined toward big, blustery action movies — as the dastardly nemesis to Channing Tatum and Jamie Foxx in White House Down. The sexagenarian casually ought-toughs the testosterone levels of both current Hollywood heavyweights, and brings some class to an otherwise ludicrous movie.

It’s not, however, the film you want to watch if you want to see a master at work. For that, there is a back catalogue of intuitive performances from a man who’s more than happy to give you reasons not to like him. Try the one which earned him yet another Academy nod: Ghosts of Mississippi (1996). Or the one which caught him on the cusp of his career: as Barbra Streisand’s weakling beta college boyfriend in 1973’s The Way We Were.

Yet, for Woods’s talent to earnestly shine, the two movies to check out are Martin Scorsese’s seminal Casino (1995) and Sergio Leone’s tragically underrated Once Upon a Time in America (1984); in both, Woods plays opposite the actor in whose shadow he has often stood, Robert de Niro. In Casino, Woods’s feral, slimy turn as Sharon Stone’s waster childhood dream-boy is just the right brand of vacuous charm to aggravate de Niro’s jealousy.

Rewind a decade, and you find Woods giving the performance of his lifetime. Once Upon a Time in America examines the tight but taut friendship between two hoods-turned-prohibition gangsters in the New York projects. As Max, de Niro’s vicious, calculating, ambitiously greedy best friend, Woods manages to refract himself through just enough of the protagonist’s sympathy to give a truly nuanced performance. Initially the movie was even meant to centre on Max, before it shifted to become a vehicle for de Niro, and the intensity Woods pulses through the screen is a rare glimpse into a raucous screen charisma that later directors have sadly failed to capitalise on.

Meanwhile, if you need a good answer for, say, BBC’s Pointless, it can’t hurt to know that Woods was the voice of Hades in Disney’s Hercules. Villainous indeed.