Wednesday, May 14, 2025
Blog Page 1189

The Conservatives and dubious economic narratives

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The Conservatives’ election campaign seems to be based entirely around the claim that Labour is an economically incompetent party. The problem with this is that when we step away from the right-wing press’ depiction of events from the near and distant past we can see that this narrative is little more than unsubstantiated hearsay.

The Conservative wet dream is the Winter of Discontent. Given as proof of the failure of Keynesian demand management, to this day the Right talk of rocketing inflation alongside unemployment high enough to warrant the famous ‘Labour isn’t working’ posters. As proofs of economic incompetence go, this isn’t a great one.

When Margaret Thatcher left office, inflation was higher than at any point in the famous Winter, while unemployment rose to a peak of double the 1.7 million experienced then. Only in the first year of her premiership was unemployment lower than it had been in 1978.

This tendency towards revisionism can again be seen in the discussion around what caused the 2008 Recession. Since the crash, we have repeatedly heard that the Conservatives are “sorting out the mess Labour left”, as Labour wreaked economic havoc while the Conservatives determinedly tried to stop them.

Typical of the narratives in the right-wing press, while this analysis does have some link to reality it’s fairly tenuous and misses the key points. Labour’s spend and borrow policies did lead to a significant deficit, but you would be pressed to find many academic economists who would maintain this as the main cause of the recession.

Instead, they would probably point to the catastrophic global crash of 2008, which many right-wing commentators seem to forget happened. Or, they might highlight the UK financial sector deregulation, which freed up banks to make extraordinarily speculative gambles with the public’s money. The problem with claiming this was Labour’s fault is that the Conservatives under Thatcher began this trend, and wholeheartedly supported Labour’s decision not to reverse it.

Having seen the tendency of right-wing analysts to create false economic narratives, we can turn to the key one now being thrown at us. This is that the cause of the economic recovery has been austerity, and that therefore this is the road the country must continue down.

To start with, even the IMF has admitted that it was wrong for advocating austerity in the UK. The reasoning given in the 2010-11 was that as debt-loaded countries like Greece and Spain were on the edge of defaulting, deficit reduction must take centre stage in economic plans. This gave the Tories the grounds to cut things fast and (as tens of thousands of disabled people with spare rooms for carers can testify) with a spectacular lack of social conscience, arguing that unless the deficit was quickly reduced firms would lose confidence and stop spending.

In hindsight, it seems this was a serious misprognosis. Unlike Eurozone countries, the Government could not default as the Bank of England could create more money by buying the debt itself, and firms know this so would not just lose confidence and reduce spending. Instead, the effect of austerity has been to create an unevenly felt tightening which massively slowed down the rate of recovery. This was clearly seen in the first two years of austerity, as the economy slowly contracted as people inevitably spent less. Osborne points towards the small growth the country has seen recently and argues it is evidence that his plan has worked. However, although it’s true that the economy eventually picked up, this has only been since the pace of austerity was quietly slowed down after 2012 and is in the context of a worldwide recovery.

In the coming weeks, you will hear and read the near constant refrain that, “Our plan is working, we need to stay on it.” On the contrary, the austerity plan never worked. To borrow Nobel economist Paul Krugman’s description, saying things are feeling better now thanks to austerity is comparable to stopping hitting yourself in the face with a book and remarking how the end of the pain is thanks to the clever course of action you took. Rapid austerity measures were never the right course; rather, they are part of a rich right-wing tradition that fails to recognise its own failings and attempts to paint others as even more incompetent.

Interview: Eudaimonia and culture with Vivienne Westwood

Ever since the first texts of classical Sumerian from around 2600BC, we as a species have been fascinated by works of literature. But the textual jewels that dazzle the eye in these texts are intensely subjective. What may shine for one reader may be dull or bland to another. Flaubert’s affective portraits of the human form may be sublime to some, but repulse others more interested in the disembodied and deconstructed realities of Samuel Beckett and the modernist school. But what all readers can agree upon is this: how intensely individual and pleasurable the experience of reading can be. Reading is a eudaimonistic experience: individuals are self-improved, and therefore happier, through the exploration of the written word.

Vivienne Westwood is a figure who shares the opinion of the individuality and improving effect of reading. Her son, Ben Westwood, recently commented on her eternally avid reading habits developed from childhood that she continues to share with her children. “My mother has always been a reader. Whenever she gets a break or a holiday then there is nothing she likes more than to read in bed. When we visit my brother’s place in the country, we hardly ever see her during the day.”

Speaking of her favourite literary works, it becomes clear that her love of reading is as deep and diverse as her experimentation in the fashion world. As with her movement from the eighteenth century dress to that of the twentieth century, her favourite reading encompasses many time periods and stretches as many oceans.

“My favourite book is probably one of Proust’s. I’m intent on exploring him further by reading him in French. Another favourite of mine is a Chinese book – The Story Of the Stone, sometimes called Dream of the Red Chamber. It was written at the end of the eighteenth century. “It’s fiction, but based upon real characters. It really gives you a world that is so different from mine. The people are so brilliant, you can really empathise with the characters. It’s like living two lives. Great books allow you to live many lives.” But in order to live many lives, Westwood argues that a reader or viewer of art must temporarily forget their own temporality and identity. An artist requires a blank canvas in order to leave space for a visible, lasting imprint to be made, and the mind of a reader can be seen to work in a similar way. In the same manner that one must suspend one’s disbelief when viewing a play truly to enjoy it, a reader must suspend some of their belief in themselves when reading to gain the full benefit from a text or work of art.

“A great, great work of art makes you want to get down on your knees and melt into a pool on the floor. You just can’t believe how amazing some things are. It’s like a kind of meditation. Every work of art – I’ve said this before in my blog – every painting is a vision of the world, as seen through the eyes of an individual who, living at the time of other individuals, would not have had the same view as his next-door neighbour. And he certainly would not have had the same view as someone living ten years prior to him. So if you want to understand the world you live in, you should really try to see it through the eyes of everyone who has lived before you.

“A painting, a book, a piece of music is an individual who has tried to communicate their view of the world. It’s like looking through the wrong end of a telescope. You try to see it as they did. You can manage it a little bit as we are all human beings, but you have another perspective. You’re seeing it from your own evolution, your point in time. It is your roots. You can’t understand the world you live in without it, as everything is coming from you. You become alienated. Like an older person becomes disillusioned, they don’t know what to do with themselves – they have no life.

“The answer is to follow your deep interest. Forget who you are. It’s not important. That’s why I didn’t want to do a book [speaking of her recent autobiography]. I’m not interested in me. My continuity is what I think. If I look up a word in the dictionary, that’s my continuity. Vivienne knows something more. Knowledge is something I’d call solidity. You know something, but you are not sure of it. Maybe you’ll find something else. Now I understand. You have to put things together, plot a perspective. And that’s what I mean by ‘Get a Life’ [one of her recent slogans]. If you don’t have any motivation in life, go to the art gallery.”

But like the changing of literary styles, Westwood emphasises the subjectivity of taste. As one becomes more knowledgeable, what is appreciated changes. “When I tell people to go to the art gallery, I always say to them, ‘If the fire bell went, just go from one room to the next, and think ‘which picture will I save from that room?’ Because if you keep going to the art gallery, you wouldn’t choose that one. What I’m saying is the root of our intelligence is discrimination. It’s the difference between things – what is good, and what isn’t quite so good. A painting is an idea without words. It is a direct experience.”

Literature and art are powerful weapons of change and improvement. Without them, the changing identities around us are left as nothing more than voiceless shades stretching out into the abyss. To become static brings about cultural decay. We must always read and continue to view art to ensure not only our own continuity, but that of the society around us and that which will come after us.

Westwood’s work in activism has always sought to provide the silent with a voice and improve our knowledge of the injustices occurring within society. But what should we read in order to keep our minds stimulated in this age of urban decay and flopping over computer screens. How should we attempt to ‘Get a Life’? “The Grapes of Wrath by John Steinbeck is something I would recommend to people. It’s very easy to read, but full of pertinent ideas. But they have to read stuff like Orwell’s 1984, they absolutely have to. That’s a kind of satire of the world in which we live. It’s so applicable to today and the fragile world in which we all live.”  

Modern pentathletes triumph

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Oxford’s Modern Pentathlon club (OUMPA) has always been strong, and its members lived up to their reputation with a con­vincing victory in both the men’s and women’s varsity matches, held over the Easter Vac. Katie Hickson was also victorious individually for the women.

Not to be confused with Ancient Pentathlon, the Modern kind was originally designed to replicate the demands of a spy behind enemy lines, incorporating fencing, swimming, horse riding and a combined event of shooting and running. As such, unlike many other multi-event sports, a good pentathlete is required to have great technical ability in very different areas; a requirement that makes the sport ex­tremely challenging, and attracts athletes from many different backgrounds.

This year, Oxford entered varsity on the back of significant BUCS success, so they could be confident of their chances. However, there was reason to be wary of their opposition, with Cambridge claiming the team title at BUCS and Chattenton unable to compete at varsity, leading to an intriguing battle ahead for the two-day event held at Bradbourne school.

Oxford took a commanding advantage from the first event on Day One in both six-to-score competitions, out-fencing their opponents to take 300+ point advantages, a result of solid performances from every individual, led by Hugo Fleming, Kouji Urata (960 points each) and Leigh Paton (1040 points). After the swim­ming, Urata took the overall lead, with a second-placed finish, his team once again packing in close behind to extend their advantage. On the women’s side, Cam­bridge launched a fightback and took a slight lead into the ride, Henny Dillon taking her second individual victory of the day.

The next event, the ride, is the most unpre­dictable of the series, with competitors required to use a horse on which they have had no experience, so there is al­ways an accompanied risk that horse and rider will not respond well together. Riders are scored according to the number of jumps that they knock down. Oxford again produced a solid performance to take commanding advantages into the final events of both competitions. In the individual standings, consistency proved to be key for the women as Henny Dillon picked up no points and thus slipped down the standings, while Katie Hickson faced only a slight deficit with her best event yet to come. The men’s com­petition was more finely poised, with the major­ity of the field only split by a small number of points, so all was up for grabs.

It was indeed Hickson who stormed to victory in the combined event, using the speed that has earned her selection for the cross country Blues team for the past two years to take a repeat of her individual victory last year. The men’s fin­ish proved to be much closer, with Alex Fraser (O) and Paul Hodgson (C) separated only by a photograph finish.

It was Hodgson that ultimately triumphed as a result of his fastest time of the day in the combined event, with a total 5256 points to 5248 after all five events had been completed. Despite this, Oxford managed to restrict Cambridge to a narrow victory in the combined event and thus hang on to regain the varsity trophy that they had relinquished last year. Victory in both re­serves’ matches only added to what was already an incredibly successful weekend for the Dark Blues.

Should Designers Go Digital?

In the world of designer brands, a core group of stores has long resisted the pull of e-commerce. Wanting to remain both exclusive and elusive, designer powerhouses including Chanel, Marc Jacobs and Céline have rejected the digital world and only sold their products in their boutiques.

Yet it seems that the designer world is starting to crack; only a couple of weeks ago, French luxury-brand Chanel announced their plans to launch a form of e-commerce by the end of next year. However, they delivered this far more quickly. As of April 15th one can officially shop the new ‘Coco Crush’ range of jewellery from Chanel through the high-end online shopping site Net-A-Porter. Hoorah.

Coco Crush consists of six pieces of jewellery – five rings and a cuff – in 18-karat white and yellow gold. All feature the brand’s iconic quilted design, and are advertised as ‘exceptional styles’ that will ‘instantly elevate your favourite lace, denim or leather.’

This is the first time Chanel has ever sold anything other than sunglasses, cosmetics, skincare and fragrance online and by the looks of it, the strategy is proving successful: Just 12 hours after the e-commercial launch and the cuff, priced at £13,500, has already sold out. Fast work, Chanel.

Part of Chanel’s reasoning behind entering a partnership with Net-A-Porter is the quality of the digital shopping experience they have provided. Net-A-Porter has gone all-out to create their own digital pop-up shop on the website. This is only open for three weeks and so adds to the air of exclusivity. Along with the usual zoom/angle features we would expect when online shopping, the product description for each item includes a video of the piece being modelled, with care taken to show the intricate ‘Chanel’ inscription on the inside. This ‘Coco Crush world’ is also available on tablet and mobiles meaning that you can shop as and when you please.

So, what changed Chanel’s mind? It was after all just over a year ago that Chanel’s President of Fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, justified the brand’s decision not to expand online, by explaining that: “Fashion is about clothing, and clothing you need to see, to feel, to understand. To be able to wear Chanel clothes, you need to try them on.”

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It appears that Chanel’s new dalliance with e-commerce is being framed as an “evolution to better serve customers.” Speaking recently with WWD, Pavlovsky recognised that many of Chanel’s current or potential customers do not have the time to go to visit their boutiques, and that having a range of products available online is more convenient. As a result, he describes how their new venture is “more e-service than a pure e-commerce approach.”

And it appears that Chanel is just the latest designer domino to fall to e-commerce, or rather e-service; Burberry, Moschino, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent are just a few fashion powerhouses who have got on board in the past couple of years.

Fendi has also followed a similar path. Just a couple of months ago, Fendi released its plans to sell its high-end clothing and leather goods online on its own e-commerce site.  Prior to this, it had, as Chanel has just done, only sold goods through sites such as Net-a-Porter and Bergdorf Goodman. However,  after trialling an e-commerce site when celebrating the anniversary of its classic Baguette bag, it recognised the benefits of maximising its online potential.

There are of course, those who still resist. Despite being worn by some of the world’s most stylish women, Céline remains determined to avoid the temptations of e-commerce to the extent that the brand has neither a Twitter nor an Instagram feed. CEO Marco Gobbetti explains that this strategy has been employed to set Céline apart from its competitors. “I feel fashion has become overcrowded and has made a lot of noise on the Internet,” Gobbetti states, so “being quiet gives more value to what we do.”

In addition, Gobbetti echoes Pavlovsky’s original reservations about preserving the customer’s shopping experience: “We think it is important to touch the clothes—much of what is special is lost on e-commerce. We want to control what we do. We control from the design and the production. If we make mistakes they are our own.”

With these concerns in mind, we are left to speculate about what the future holds for Chanel and the luxury brand’s online presence. It is likely that it may follow a similar path as Fendi and branch out to its own e-commerce site in the near future. Evidently Chanel’s e-commerce escapades do not yet feature the sale of fashion, but with the ‘Coco Crush’ launch as successful as it currently is, surely this won’t be far away in the future. For the French power-house exclusivity is paramount. Whether this will be compromised by going online is something we will have to wait to find out. 

Trinity Term Sports Preview

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If the triumph that was the Dark Blue clean sweep on the Tideway wasn’t enough to sat­isfy your Oxford sporting needs through­out the Vac, fear not: Trinity Term has arrived. Whilst we all live in hope that the summer weather has not already been and gone over the last couple of weeks, there are a whole host of events that should well and truly heat up this term’s sporting calendar.

Lame puns aside, if you’re a fan of American sports, then you may have followed the NCAA ‘March Madness’ Basketball tournament dur­ing the vac. This is a high-stakes tournament that pits the best student ‘ballers’ in America against each other in a highly publicised and enthralling competition, which ultimately saw Duke University come out on top, defeat­ing Wisconsin in the final. Not one to be overlooked, Oxford’s answer to this event is strong, and comes early in Trinity Term: Croquet Cuppers, the sporting phenomenon once again set to take the university – and eventually the world – by storm. With over 2000 people participating in last year’s edition, it was the largest sporting event in University history, and with the incentive of prize money and alcohol for winners and top performers, similar numbers are anticipated. The sign-up window for this year’s event closes on Saturday of 0th Week (25th April).

With the warm weather season beginning, Trinity is an especially busy term for the Ath­letics Club, which has a number of marquee events packing out an exciting calendar. First, they will travel to Cambridge on 16th May for their varsity showdown, looking to make amends for the defeat suffered in the 2014 varsity.

However, by the end of term the two squads will have to let bygones be bygones in order to join forces for when they welcome the Athletics Clubs of Harvard and Yale to Iffley Road on 29th June for the 45th edition of this historic meet.

This transatlantic rivalry is laden with his­tory, with the first such event taking place in 1899, only a few years after the first Olympic Games of the modern era. After successive de­feats for Oxford and Cambridge at the hands of Harvard and Yale in 2011 and 2013, the Light and Dark Blues will be keen to return the trophy to this side of the pond in what should be a magnificent spectacle.

For many, the summer is synonymous with the sound of leather on willow at the near­est park or cricket ground. If you are one of these people, there will certainly be plenty for you to get excited about, as this term is packed full of tantalising fixtures. Both the men and women’s cricket sides will take on Cambridge in Twenty20 on 12th June and also in One Day matches at Lord’s on 27th June, as each University strives to establish absolute cricketing dominance over the other. The grand finale for the Blues cricketers will come in the form of the 170th varsity match at the Fenner’s Cricket Ground in Cambridge. The match will take place over four days, from 30th June to 3rd July, as the men’s team will seek a repeat of their 2013 victory.

For those among us who are especially keen on strawberries and cream, but can’t quite wait until the end of June for Wimble­don, look no further than the tennis varsity on 5th and 6th June. If total tennis immersion is your goal this summer, then cheering the men’s and women’s teams to victory in these matches would be the perfect warm up to the French Open finalson the same weekend.

Lastly, 5th Week of Trinity Term is a date rowers all over Oxford have had circled since the last bumps of Torpids, as the colleges will drain of students and the riverbanks will become lined with spectators for the carnage of Summer VIIIs. This event in particular doesn’t need a great deal of explanation, as your rower friends will no doubt be recruit­ing you for support. Regardless, grab as many friends as you can and head down to the river to support your college

Follow us @CherwellSport for the latest updates, gossip and news.

What the Women’s Boat Race means for female sport

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When I was little, I used to dream that, for whatever sport had caught my fancy that week, there would suddenly be the implementation of mixed Ashes, or a mixed Rugby World Cup, or a mixed Boat Race.

Women (including myself, obviously), would play alongside the men, in front of the crowds, in the big stadiums, and it would be wonderful. These dreams had little do to with a pathological hatred of the sport of my own sex or even simply my competitive drive to be the best of everyone, but a lack of exposure to female sport. More specifically, a lack of exposure to the occasion of female sport. The first scene in Bend It Like Beckham, in which a young girl dreams of being the next big thing in male football, is based upon a need for celebration, recognition and the desire to be the best you can be. The Boat Race 2015, for the first time, gave this opportunity to female rowers.

To many people, the existence of a female Boat Race was practically unknown. The male Boat Race was a stalwart of the Brit­ish sporting calendar, with entire families bleeding the blue of a university that they had no connection with, except on Boat Race Day.

For the students of Oxford and Cambridge, it was a chance to scream about your uni­versity to anyone who would listen, despite a hatred of the cult of rowing for the other 364 days of the year. Yet, for the women, this was not the case. Nobody came to Henley, the former location of the women’s Boat Race, to shout and scream. The BBC barely wrote a paragraph for them, and certainly no fami­lies developed irrational rivalries over which crew won.

Their race was confined to the insular rowing world, and to a thread on RowChat. These women, who had as little sleep, ate just as many raw eggs and trained just as hard as their male counterparts, got only the small­est fraction of the recognition. However, this year, they burst onto the scene, the jewel in the crown of Oxbridge rowing.

It was a shame, in a way, that Cambridge were not simply better, as the female races caused the BBC producers headaches fit­ting the crews into the same shot. Word in the media tent after the race was that the Oxford crew had been asked by the Boat Race company to lower their stroke rate once they got over a boat length ahead. But these were highly trained athletes and the spectre of Oxford powering off into the glorious after­noon was a sure vindication of the tenacity of these women.

Ultimately, what was presented was not only two crews for any Oxonian to be im­mensely proud, but also a team of women to envy, admire and aspire to. It is a rare event in sport that women get the same opportu­nity for occasion, yet 4.8 million tuned in to watch the first ever women’s Boat Race on the tideway.

To put this into perspective, the Wimble­don 2014 Ladies’ Singles final only attracted a peak of 3.1 million viewers. As former Dark Blue Dan Snow put it, “Most televised sport is a carnival of misogyny, so it is great news that the Boat Race is leading the way in en­suring that women take their rightful place alongside men”.

Doing a degree at either Oxford or Cam­bridge is hard enough, without doing a sport as demanding as rowing on top. From this year onwards, we now have the opportunity to marvel at the pure impressiveness of all of our Blues rowers, as we have for so many years at the men.

This is a year of equal opportunity, from the women’s Boat Race, to the move of the women’s rugby to Twickenham. But there’s still an enormous amount of progress to be made.

At the Boat Race weigh-in, Helena Mor­rissey, CEO of Newton Asset Management and a tireless campaigner for female equality in the boardroom and on the sports field, spoke of the yawning chasm in funding for female sport. She pointed out only 0.7% of sporting sponsorship goes exclusively to women, a staggering statistic. Clare Balding, the star BBC presenter, perhaps put it best when asked why she had chosen to present the Boat Race over the Grand National this year, “I’m a firm believer in the importance of this for women’s sport, and for its repercussions to business, society and inspiring other female athletes.”

We can be proud that Oxford and Cam­bridge now lead the world on sporting equality and it’s even better that our women clearly have the competitive edge. They can only achieve true equality if we give them as much support as a university as the men’s team have received in the past, and let’s be honest, it’s nice to have every opportunity to watch the Light Blues lose.

Isis are comeback kings of the Tideway

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On Boat Race day, Isis, Oxford men’s reserve crew, stormed to victory in one of the most exciting races I have ever seen. Whilst the media focus was on the women taking to the Tideway for the first time, the best race of the day was not even televised, and went largely unnoticed by even the most ardent rowing fans.

Standing on Chiswick bridge as Isis crossed the line three lengths ahead of their Cambridge rivals, Goldie, I, like many others around me, assumed that the race was an open-shut case just like the women’s race had been. The truth could not have been more different. While the women were celebrating and collecting their medals, one of the fierc­est boat races in living memory was taking place.

Oxford came into the race as favourites, having come close to Brookes’ top boat at Reading Head; a team which was allegedly pretty even with the Cambridge Blue Boat. There was, however, no complacency from the crew. Goldie had recorded a strong match racing performance on the Tideway against Thames Rowing Club and had been picking up speed ever since. The race had all the mak­ings of a close contest.

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Having recorded a strong result last year, with a victory of 11 lengths, Isis were keen to maintain their winning streak. James Moun­tain, sitting at four and returning from last year’s winning crew, spoke to Cherwell about the preparations on race day. “The warm up was a bit mixed, with some tricky water down below Putney Bridge, but when we came back onto the course to complete our warm up, our final bursts and starts were good.”

When the warm-up was finished, the crew heard that the Dark Blue women had emerged vic­torious in their race, leaving them to “keep the winning run for Oxford going,” although there was little time for contemplation as the showdown with Goldie drew nearer.

ATTENTION… GO!

The umpire dropped the flag and the race had begun. Unlike the Blue boats, Isis struggled to get off to a good start and did not show the good, clean rowing that had served them well all season. Goldie drew away to a lead of three seconds – roughly one length – by the mile post, thanks to a cleaner start and higher stroke rate.

By comparison, in the women’s race, Oxford had a five second lead at the same stage, and by that point the race had become merely a question of by what margin the Dark Blues would win.

Flying through Hammersmith Bridge, Goldie had extended their lead to five sec­onds despite Isis’ best attempts to stay level, and had pulled so far clear of Oxford that they had steered in front of them.

At this stage very few would have predicted a Dark Blue victory, but Mountain told Cher­well the crew kept faith in their training. “We had been extremely well prepared by our coach Andy Nelder and, led by our cox Sam Collier, we moved to halt their advance.” There was a lot of work to do but they knew they had the endurance; they had done the training and were still in the race.

As the crews came to St Paul’s School and Goldie’s advantage from the Surrey bend drew to a close, the dark blues started to reel them in. Isis found the rhythm and speed they had lacked at the start and preceded to draw in Goldie, forcing the light blues to move back to their station.

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By the time the crews passed Chis­wick steps Isis had reduced the deficit to two seconds. Strong, aggressive coxing from Sam Collier and an inspirational call in the memory of OUBC legend Dan Topolski gave Isis the boost they needed as they continued their charge. One crew member reflected afterwards of this huge push, “I was in a pretty dark place… I don’t really remember much”. The herculean effort paid off and with four minutes of the race left they had drawn level and must have known they were in for the win.

Passing through Barnes bridge with less than a mile until the finish and the bend in their favour, Isis had drawn out to a length ahead of Goldie and, with the opposition pay­ing the price for front loading, victory was almost certain.

The final verdict was a win for Isis by ten seconds or three lengths. The crew crossed the line filled both with the immense pain of their exertion and the sublime ecstasy of winning. In contrast, Goldie crossed the line and collapsed into a deep void of sadness and disappointment; such is the nature of a race where second place means nothing.

Such resilience from Isis bodes well for the future at OUBC. This was a young crew dominated by five undergraduates, three of whom were freshers. With many of the Blue Boat moving on at the end of the year, the vic­tory augurs well for the reserve boat athletes. Last Friday, the Oxford spare pair of Rufus Stirling and Thomas Macgregor had suc­cumbed to Cambridge by about two lengths, but Oxford’s domination in the reserve race reflected their vastly superior strength in depth.

Goldie paid the price for such a risky strat­egy of throwing everything they had at Isis so soon. After 2014’s crushing defeat, Goldie seemed determined not to be left behind off the start. But their front-loading tactics swung too far the other way, leaving them vulnerable to the surging rhythm of the Isis crew.

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Birdsong: Harmonising fashion and feminism

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Today is Fashion Revolution Day, and as our corresponding Fashion Matters column highlights, there are some inherent problems within the fashion industry. Yet, the exposure of such issues is surely a sign that progress is possible. Talking to Sophie Slater, a co-founder of the feminist and ethical fashion marketplace, Birdsong London, this couldn’t be more apparent.

Sophie, along with her Birdsong co-founders, Ruba Huleihel and Sarah Beckett, have reconciled fashion with feminism and consumption with social responsibility through their production process; Birdsong’s suppliers are an extraordinary mix of women’s groups. These include Staywell, an elderly ladies’ knitting group, and Sweet Cavanagh, a group of women recovering from eating disorders and addictions who make jewellery. Birdsong’s promise is that 70-90 per cent of the money spent on these women’s beautiful creations goes straight back to the brilliant women who made them.

Birdsong was the result of a process of frustration with the fashion industry. 
“A series of events when I was a late 
teenager reinforced my feminist beliefs and made me want to get more involved in the fashion industry,” Sophie recalls. “When I was a teenager I did some modelling, and whilst at the time it did feel very glamorous and exciting, in hindsight there were a few things I saw that make me feel uncomfortable now. Not only did I see gorgeous girls being told to hit the gym, but I too, despite being very young and underdeveloped, was told that I was perfect the way I was. This was essentially code for ‘don’t hit puberty.’ ”

Moreover, after learning more about the sexualisation and objectification of women within the industry, Sophie became determined to turn the fashion industry on its head and to empower women through it.

So, with Ruba and Sarah, Sophie set out to work with women’s groups to make fashion that was principally about ethics. “We knew that a lot of women’s groups make things for therapeutic purposes, but obviously they don’t have the resources to channel their energy into marketing them. So, we did a bit of research and approached a few groups and came across Staywell and Sweet Cavanagh. We already had good relations with the former because Sarah had previously worked there. She knew that one of the leaders of the knitting group had fallen ill and had lost direction and purpose, so they needed a project to work on. Sweet Cavanagh already ran a jewellery workshop for women recovering from eating disorders and addictions, and the money they made was used to finance care and counselling.”


“Both groups really fit into our mission and we almost developed Birdsong around them. Once we knew that there was the need for the marketing of these products we decided to help maximise these women’s groups’ potential by selling online.”


Whilst Birdsong is using the internet in a positive manner, Sophie reveals that the instantaneous and anonymous nature of e-commerce masks information over the conditions of our clothes’ production. “When you purchase something in one click online it’s so divorced from its origins,” Sophie remarks, “there are so many layers of alienation of labour from where the product was first made to its arrival on your front doorstop in beautiful packaging that is really hard to imagine.”


Birdsong wants consumers to consider the invisible productive processes in their consumption and to be able to support the people actually making fashion. They want to achieve this by harnessing the power of e-commerce; “We’re moving onto a new website platform which will allow us to accommodate more of our suppliers, whilst also enabling our international suppliers to be instantly connected to us. With this change, hopefully you’ll be hearing a lot more about us because we’ll be able to shout a bit louder about what we’re doing.”

I have no doubt that we’ll soon be hearing Birdsong’s sweetest harmony; “If the Y-fronts you’re selling objectify women, make your own Y-fronts. If the fashion industry makes you feel like crap, create your own version.”

How to… survive your collections

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The vac ends, and as you finish cramming your toothbrush into your last bag, you notice the to-do list you optimistically penned within the first few days of the Easter Vac. First bullet-point: Revise. You don’t need a pen to tick that one off. Because just like me, you’ve failed, and now you’ve got a problem.

If I were good at my job as a how-to-instructor, I would probably tell you to put down these venerable and noble pages, and get revising. But I’m not going to do that. Because then what would be the point of me writing this in the first place? So. Once you’ve finished reading this paper, get up. You’re going to need a lot of caffeine. 

At this point, leisurely drinking a cup of coffee is just not going to be enough. Neither is leisurely reading. In order to get yourself sorted, you’re going to need to do a bit of role play. Nothing dodgy, but roll up your thesp sleeves. Here goes. 

Imagine you are in Roppongi. Lay out 20 shot glasses down your desk. Fill each one with coffee (preferably Gold Blend). I repeat: you are in Roppongi. Now, seeing as you’re stuck in Roppongi, there is only one thing a sane person would do. Numb the pain. So now you’re going to have to shot those glasses. Well done. 

Next. In order to escape from Roppongi, you are going to have to write a practice paper for the bouncer. Admittedly this is a test of faith, but you can always ask your friend to step in as faux bouncer. Anyway, before you can complete the paper, you’re going to need to prepare. With the excess coffee in your system, your heartbeat should be going. Start reading. You must finish the page before you hear the sound of your next heartbeat. 

Repeat this for as many hours as you have before your collection(s). If you pause, Roppongi will get you. 

If you get to five minutes before your collection, and you’ve failed to follow my instructions, there is only one thing left to do. It’s dangerous, but it will work. Trace back the email which notified you of your collection all those weeks ago. Print it out surreptitiously. Go into a dark room, and then, within five seconds (you can use a timer on your phone), eat it.

Once consumed, return to your bedroom. Make sure you walk slowly in order not to attract attention. When you are contacted to find out why you were not at your collection, deny all knowledge. Assure them that you never received any emails, and have certainly not consumed any evidence. 

If this conversation occurs in person make sure to hold eye contact at ALL TIME. DO NOT BLINK. Your tutor will realise you are correct, and you can begin the term, unscathed. This will only work once. Revise next time, you idiot.

#NotGuilty: A letter to my assaulter

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TW: Sexual Assault

I cannot address this letter to you, because I do not know your name. I only know that you have just been charged with serious sexual assault and prolonged attack of a violent nature. And I have one question.

When you were caught on CCTV following me through my own neighbourhood from the Tube, when you waited until I was on my own street to approach me, when you clapped your hand around my face until I could not breathe, when you pushed me to my knees until my face bled, when I wrestled with your hand just enough so that I could scream. When you dragged me by my hair, and when you smashed my head against the pavement and told me to stop screaming for help, when my neighbour saw you from her window and shouted at you and you looked her in the eye and carried on kicking me in the back and neck. When you tore my bra in half from the sheer force you grabbed my breast, when you didn’t reach once for my belongings because you wanted my body, when you failed to have my body because all my neighbours and family came out, and you saw them face-to-face. When CCTV caught you running from your attempted assault on me… and then following another woman twenty minutes later from the same tube station before you were arrested on suspicion. When I was in the police station until 5am while you were four floors below me in custody, when I had to hand over my clothes and photographs of the marks and cuts on my naked body to forensic teams – did you ever think of the people in your life? 

I don’t know who the people in your life are. I don’t know anything about you. But I do know this: you did not just attack me that night. I am a daughter, I am a friend, I am a girlfriend, I am a pupil, I am a cousin, I am a niece, I am a neighbour, I am the employee who served everyone down the road coffee in the café under the railway. All the people who form those relations to me make up my community, and you assaulted every single one of them. You violated the truth that I will never cease to fight for, and which all of those people represent – that there are infinitely more good people in the world than bad. 

This letter is not really for you at all, but for all the victims of attempted or perpetrated serious sexual assault and every member of their communities. I’m sure you remember the 7/7 bombings. I’m also sure you’ll remember how the terrorists did not win, because the whole community of London got back on the Tube the next day. You’ve carried out your attack, but now I’m getting back on my tube.

My community will not feel we are unsafe walking back home after dark. We will get on the last tube home, and we will walk up our streets alone, because we will not ingrain or submit to the idea that we are putting ourselves in danger in doing so. We will continue to come together, like an army, when any member of our community is threatened, and this is a fight you will not win. 

Community is a force we all underestimate. We get our papers every day from the same newsagents, we wave to the same woman walking her dog in the park, we sit next to the same commuters each day on the tube. Each individual we know and care about may take up no more than a few seconds of each day, but they make up a huge proportion of our lives. Somebody even once told me that, however unfamiliar they appear, the faces of our dreams are always faces we have seen before. Our community is embedded in our psyche. You, my attacker, have not proved any weakness in me, or my actions, but only demonstrated the solidarity of humanity. 

Tomorrow, you find out whether you’re to be held in prison until your trial, because you pleaded ‘not guilty’ and pose a threat to the community. Tomorrow, I have my life back. As you sit awaiting trial, I hope that you do not just think about what you have done. I hope you think about community. Your community – even if you can’t see it around you every day. It is there. It is everywhere. You underestimated mine. Or should I say ours? I could say something along the lines of, ‘Imagine if it had been a member of your community,’ but instead let me say this. There are no boundaries to community; there are only exceptions, and you are one of them.

Cherwell Life is starting a campaign with Ione this term. We are asking for articles under the theme of ‘NOT GUILTY’. We encourage responses considering assault, victim-blaming and community. Whether you have experienced assault, or wish to supply some positive thinking, please do respond, just as Ione has done. We are hoping to create a presence on Facebook, Twitter, and our website, in order to establish a strong force of community overriding misdirected victim characterisation. Submissions to [email protected]