Friday 22nd August 2025
Blog Page 1213

The West’s anti-Russia media campaign

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As the EU steps up its opposition to what it deems to be Russia’s “disinformation campaigns”, it is time to shine light on some of the narratives that the Western media has been concocting regarding the catastro­phe currently configuring the relationship between Russia and the West: the Ukraine crisis.

The stance of many Russian supporters and their justification for the Russian government’s actions can be traced back to the violation of the alleged promise made by the US Secretary of State James A. Baker and German Foreign Minister Hans Dietrich Genscher to Mikhail Gorbachev in 1990, that although the newly unified Germany would be part of NATO, the latter would “not move one inch to the East”. The NATO Review, on the other hand, attributes Russia’s belief about the existence of a binding agreement to the confusion in the political environment of the early 1990’s, even presenting NATO’s eastward expansion as the fulfillment of a moral obligation: “the countries of Central and Eastern Europe were finally able to assert their sovereignty and define their own foreign and security policy goals. As these goals centered on integration with the West, any categorical refusal of NATO to respond would have meant the de facto continuation of Europe’s division along former Cold War lines. The right to choose one’s alliance, enshrined in the 1975 Helsinki Charter, would have been denied – an approach that the West could never have sustained, neither politically nor morally.” I will leave this aspect of the conflict aside, however, as it is easy to get lost in the sea of alternative accounts and interpretations of the exact events of 1990. Instead, I will embark upon an analysis of the crisis from a constitutional standpoint, appealing to what Western civilization has elevated to the position once held by religion – the rule of law.

As the scrupulous analysis by Valery Dmitrievich Zorkin, the Chairman of the Constitutional Court of the Russian Federation, of the unfolding of the crisis in Ukraine shows, the “bastion of human rights and freedom” – the West, has in fact been undermining the absolute power of its sacrosanct rule of law in supporting and aiding the opposition, which has now become Ukraine’s de facto government.

In the early stages of the crisis the Western media was eager to present the protests in Kiev and other regions of Ukraine as evidence of the Ukrainians having chosen to join Europe. Thus, Yanukovich’s pro-Russian stance was portrayed as his betrayal of the will of the Ukrainian nation. The Western media, however, conveniently omitted the fact that even all the protestors combined in all the regions, who never exceeded 1.5 million in number, could hardly represent the will of a nation of 45 million. Thus, the call for the removal of Yanukovich by Western politicians was contrary to the law given that Yanukovich and the Verkhovna Rada constituted a legitimately elected government. Moreover, Yanukovich’s impeachment itself was unconstitutional, given the fact that at the moment of the decision about his impeachment, only 313 MPs were present, of which 283 voted for his removal from power, which was short of 55 votes according to the requirements of the Constitution for the impeachment of a president.

Even after the illegitimate removal of Yanukovich from power, the Verkhovna Rada continued its work with flagrant violations of the law. The opposition, which came to power in the Verkhovna Rada following the president’s removal, numbered around 150 MPs, leaving it without a constitutional (300 votes) or even an ordinary (226 votes) majority. Well documented stories about the subsequent “persuasion” techniques implemented by the opposition in order to gain a majority, as armed “guards” appeared in the homes of insubmissive MPs, were also conveniently omitted from the Western media’s analysis of the events.

Was the Western media aware of the falsified procedure for the dismissal of Yanukovich, of the use of force and machinations with the deputies’ cards in order to obtain a majority in the Verkhovna Rada, as well as all the other violations of the Constitution and the illegitimacy of the new government? It most probably was as many western as well as Ukrainian journalists were witnesses of these events according to Zorkin. Thus, perhaps the West should cleanse its own media of “disinformation” before that of Russia’s.

Interview: Jonathan Powell

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Nobody could call Jonathan Powell’s career path dull. He seems to have the knack, or more likely the talent, of finding himself in all the most interesting places at all the most interesting times. He started his working life at the Foreign Office, where he helped to assist in the Hong Kong handover negotiations with the Chinese, took part in the German Reunification talks in 1989-90 and shadowed Bill Clinton on the 1992 campaign trail. And this was just the beginning.

For, in 1995, Tony Blair appointed him his Chief of Staff and, after Blair’s 1997 landslide election victory, Powell became the Downing Street Chief of Staff and worked at the heart of the corridors of power for the duration of Blair’s premiership. The next decade saw him at the centre of Labour decision-making, from the 1997 Election to the Iraq War. However, perhaps unsurprisingly for a former diplomat, it was his role as one of the lead British negotiators on Northern Ireland of which he is most proud, calling it “by far the most important thing I did in my life”.

In 1998, the Good Friday Agreement was signed, finally bringing some peace to that war-torn part of the world. Getting there, however, was the cause of many sleepless nights for Powell. “It was a very frustrating process. I had to go across the Irish Sea once or twice a week, as well as being Chief of Staff at Number 10 and they made you negotiate through the night about things which didn’t need to be negotiated through the night. At some stages, I was tearing out my hair about it. But, in retrospect, I am really glad I did it.”

Given the recent flares of violence in Northern Ireland, I ask him how durable he thinks the current political settlement is, “We are not going to go back to the Troubles again, but if anyone thinks you’re living in a fairy story where everyone lives happily after, you are not. We solved lots of problems, we solved a large part of the violence problem, but we haven’t solved the politics and we haven’t solved the sectarianism. There is a process of peace-building that comes after peacemaking that can take a very long time to solve.

“Once people separate like that, bringing them back together again is very hard. It takes a very long period of time.” The conversation turns to the internal dynamics of the Blair government, and in particular, the role of the Civil Service. Powell and the Civil Service did not always see eye to eye and he thinks that there are lots of ways in which it can improve, telling me, “There is a problem with the British Civil Service. It is probably one of the best civil services in the world but it hasn’t had really major reforms, although it has had reforms, since the nineteenth century and it really does need a change. The trouble at the moment is that it is very much a dynastic order and although we say people come in and out, they don’t really. People still join when they leave university and leave when they retire.

“One of the reasons why it is so hard to reform the Civil Service is because it is underpaid. As a result people don’t want to go into it and civil servants don’t want to leave because their pensions are too good. But we need to try and change that and we need to change the incentive scheme.”

At this point, it seemed appropriate to put to Powell the question every political-nerdcum-American-TV-geek is dying to ask: “Do you think No 10 is more West Wing or Yes Prime Minister?” His answer is immediate, “It is certainly not West Wing. I remember the Chief of Staff in the West Wing, who has died since, came to see me in Number 10. I thought he wasn’t coming for publicity but because he was interested, and then the next day a picture appeared in the newspapers of me and him talking. I know American politics quite well because I started off following Clinton around. So it is not West Wing at all, it is much more Yes Prime Minister. In many ways, Yes Prime Minister is a documentary rather than a comedy. There are an awful lot of home truths in it.”

Powell left Downing Street when Blair did in 2007, and soon after joined Morgan Stanley as an investment banker. Suffice to say, it wasn’t his calling, and he soon left. His next big venture was to set up a charity called Inter Mediate, which carries out negotiation and mediation in “the most difficult, complex and dangerous conflicts” in the world. It draws upon his experiences in Northern Ireland and is rooted in the idea that it is only through dialogue that any resolution can be achieved, a concept which lies at the heart of his new book, Talking to TerroristsHow to End Armed Conflicts.

Powell’s idea is that it is always good to talk to terrorists. Such a proposition does not pass without controversy; take ISIS for example. Following a week in which they have beheaded 30 Ethiopian Christians in Libya, many people would baulk at the idea of giving them legitimacy by talking to them. However, Powell believes we have to take a longer term view, telling me, “I have looked at the negotiations going back since the end of the Cold War and there are certain patterns which have emerged. One such pattern is that every time we encounter a terrorist group we say we will never talk to them, yet we pretty much always end up talking to them. “So my argument with ISIS would be… would we sit down with Mr Baghdadi now and negotiate? No, that would be ridiculous. He wouldn’t want to negotiate. But, if we look back at what has happened in the past, nor is just bombing them going to work. Even if we had boots on the ground, that wouldn’t solve the problem of ISIS. You have to have some longer term strategy. If they have genuine political support, and I suspect they probably do – it would have been very hard for 1,000 fighters to take over the town of Mosul without support from the population there – the chances are we are going to end up talking to them. So the sensible thing to do now is to open up a channel, as we did with the IRA back in 1972, a channel which can be used at some stage to negotiate through.”

However, Powell also argues that we will not be able to negotiate until we get to two things: first, “a mutually hurting stalemate where both sides realise they cannot win and it hurts them to carry on fighting” and, second, “strong leadership on both sides, which allows conversation to happen”.

I put it to him that this still does not answer the question of legitimising them. He tells me, “It is certainly true that armed groups really want legitimacy, they are desperate to be heard, to get publicity. There is a real issue there. The argument I make in the book is that legitimisation is a very short term thing. So, if you take for example the FARC, they started the talks in 1999 to 2001 with the Columbian government, they got legitimisation. Having been completely outcast, they were able to appear on national television. But as they made it clear in the negotiations that they weren’t serious and then rejected a perfectly good offer, they lost that legitimisation when they went back to fighting. So, all you get is very temporary legitimisation, which can be a price worth paying.”

However, whilst that might hold true for specific terrorist groups, I suggest that it still does not answer the argument that by talking to terrorists, you legitimise terror as a tactic. Powell, however, does not buy this, saying, “In normal life, you do not regard talking to someone as a reward and not talking to them as a punishment and thinking about that in terms of terrorism is useful. In talking to terrorists, you are not agreeing with them and that is the point. Talking to terrorists is not the same as giving into them. When we were talking to the IRA, we were not going to give a united Ireland down the barrel of the gun, regardless of the views of the majority of the people in Northern Ireland.”

Our conversation turns to the practicalities of talking to terrorists, which are not all that they seem. “It’s a difficult thing to do as terrorists don’t have a front office where you can pop in and have a cup of coffee and talk to them. So you find a way of establishing channels and it is funny that they work in very odd ways. For example, a colleague of mine who is trying to get in touch with Nepalese Maoists went into Kathmandu and tried everything he could to meet them but didn’t achieve anything. But then he fired off an email to Shiningpath.com which is a website they used in homage to the Maoists in Peru, and to his great surprise he got a reply, and over the next few months, they worked out how they could meet. He went to a small Indian city, was picked up in a motor rickshaw, taken through some tiny streets, into a building, out of another building, into another rickshaw, and ended up in an unfinished skyscraper on the fourth floor and then a member of the politburo came and met him. So it can happen in very odd ways.”

This vignette, whilst not of Powell himself, certainly conjures up the excitement that suffuses the world of international diplomacy. Ultimately, however, it’s neither the excitement nor the glamour of Powell’s job that make his life’s work so enviable. Rather, it is the fact that what he is doing actually means something, namely opening up dialogue where there was none, whether in Ireland or Africa, China or South America. It is this raison d’être which shines through in this interview, and which makes his life of diplomacy so interesting.

Debate: Does the Boat Race reflect badly on Oxford?

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Yes

Hannah Foxton 

When Australian Trenton Oldfield (surely a name destined for infamy) swam in the Thames, disrupting the 2012 Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race as a protest against elitism in the UK, he faced much criticism. Though he narrowly escaped deportation after a prison sentence of six months, he maintains that he was right to “protest against inequalities in British society, government cuts, reductions in civil liberties and a culture of elitism.”

Oldfield’s actions were condemned from many sides. An Oxbridge rower on the day described him as “a mockery of a man” and the judge who sentenced him as “attention seeking”. But after being sentenced, his wife defended him, arguing that the Boat Race was a bastion of elitism and class division.

“Britain,” she claimed, “has convinced many that it is the home of democracy and the gauge of civilisation. Anyone living here today knows Britain is a brutal, deeply divided, class-ridden place.” Much as we might condemn Oldfield, there is no doubt that his criticism touched a nerve. Rowing as a sport is dominated by the white and middle class; a disproportionate number attended public schools that could offer them the expensive training facilities rowing requires.

Why do we give so much attention to a sport that is inaccessible to so many? Why is the Boat Race the highlight of the University’s sporting calendar, rather than football and netball, sports that are played by schools across the UK and are accessible to all? This issue received considerable attention following the 2012 Olympics, where it was noted that of the 10 gold medal winners, the split between state and private school educated was 50/50, whereas only 2/21 on the Great British football team were privately educated. The Boat Race’s place as the university sporting paradigm is a hangover of the Victorian elite that used to dominate Oxford. One can almost hear the Eton Boating Song floating across the breeze,

“Jolly boating weather,

And a hay harvest breeze,

Rugby may be more clever,

Harrow may make more row,

But we’ll still swing together,

And swear by the best of schools.”

Unfortunately, the Bullingdon club seemed to have crawled out of the woodwork, and although very amusing, Gavin Haynes’ report for Vice on the inebriated blazer-wearing supporters on the bank hardly improved Oxford’s image with the general public.

Why does this Oxford-Cambridge stand-off get so much attention? For rowing alone, there are other university races. Each year, Durham and Newcastle hold the Northumbrian University Boat Race, Edinburgh and Glasgow battle it out in the Scottish Boat Race, and various University of London colleges battle it out for the Allom cup, but these contests get very little public recognition. We should replace this outmoded two-horse race with a national universities’ rowing competition, and give a platform to non-Oxbridge student talent.

Which leads to the issue of how many of the rowers are actually students? We all know how it works. A significant proportion of these rowers are postgraduates, from American or Australian universities with incredible records in sporting achievement, who come to Oxford to do year-long courses specifically to take part in the boat race. The degree is a sideshow to their main focus, their sport. This professionalisation of sport, and the globe-trotting gladiators brought into perform, mean the boat ace is not really university sport at all. One of the members of the Oxford Women’s team had won silver in the World Rowing Championships last year.

The only remotely praise-worthy action of this year’s Oxford boat race was the parity between the men and women’s races. Both races were held on the same day, and received the same amount of attention, even if this happened several decades too late.

As Anna Reinicke, who competed in the Boat Race in 2004 and flew over from Hamburg to watch this year’s race told The Observer, “When I rowed, the men had nothing to do with us. Now we have equality.”

But this belated conversion to gender equality cannot save this outmoded institution. In its present format, the Boat Race is a load of rollocks.

 

No

Ruth Hayhow

The reasons why the Boat Race reflects well on Oxford and Cambridge are so many and of such a glaringly obvious nature that I fear to list them would be both dull and patronising. However, it feels sufficient to set out merely the most obvious.

It can certainly be argued that the standard at which the crews compete is proof enough that the Boat Race reflects well on our university. The standard is almost unbelievably high. I cannot think of any other university level sporting competition that rivals the Boat Race’s quality of athleticism. Both boats are bursting with Olympians, with international level athletes at the top of their game, choosing to come to Oxford to compete.

However, what is perhaps even more important in terms of how Oxford is perceived is the fact that this incredible level of sporting performance is achieved by individuals who are also engaged in obtaining a degree from Oxford. This must go some way to shattering the popular myth that all anyone does at Oxford is sit in libraries, as it reveals to the millions of watching public that the students here are a varied group and that not all of them fit the clichéd stereotype.

I know a good argument must include a rebuttal but I genuinely struggle to think on what grounds the Boat Race might be a negative reflection on Oxford. My only thought is that it might be argued that the Boat Race feeds the unhelpful belief that Oxford is full of out of touch and over-privileged upper class white males.

It might be thought that the supporters who partake in the celebrations on the riverbank do not do much to dispel this impression. This year a video by Vice entitled ‘Talking Politics with Drunk Toffs at the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race’ seemed to show that Oxford’s student body was still largely made up of ‘toffs’. I would agree that it probably isn’t great for Oxford’s image that its representatives are filmed emblazered and struggling to think of a single problem that effects their lives or enthusiastically endorsing David Cameron on the sole basis of him being a “good chap”. This video is, however, clearly not (nor is it intended as) a serious representation of the Boat Race and the Oxonians who attend it. Shark Tales has conclusively proved that is not difficult to find numerous students who are happy to say and do ridiculous things on camera once they have consumed some alcohol. This willingness to say the ridiculous combined with a little interviewee profiling, editing and the right questions make it easy to paint Oxford and its students in an unflattering light.

However, while it seems hugely unfair to say that the Boat Race propounds unhelpful stereotypes on the basis of the spectators it seems even more unfair to blame this on the sport itself. To say that rowing is elitist and antiquated may not be entirely incorrect. It is a sport that in the United Kingdom is only really available at very few, and normally fee-paying, schools. However, this is yet again not a problem directly related to the Boat Race. Oxford competes in a vast range of sports, so its choosing to competing in such an ‘elite’ sport and one in which it has a such a great history in should not be seen as contentious. Oxford’s rich history is one of its most positive characteristics and so long as it does it best to eradicate any harmful historic ideas it should be proud of this history.

This brings us to perhaps the strongest response to the nay-sayers. This year the University introduced women into the race, removing the anachronistic focus on men’s sports, as the races featuring both genders across the day were all given significant coverage. As a result, this year’s race showed Oxford at its best. Over the course of the day, one could marvel at the sporting excellence Oxford students achieve, whilst watching the University adapt to the modern world without losing a sense of itself or its history.

John Thornhill on politics at the Financial Times

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With the General Election so close, there is something inevitable about the starting point of our conversation. It appears almost impossible to escape its grasp at present and as we approach this most uncertain of elections, partisan loyalties have very much come to the fore.

Indeed, it is a tradition of British newspapers to express their support for one party or another and the Financial Times is no different. In the past, as a “liberal newspaper” in both an “economic and social sense”, the FT has “overwhelmingly supported the Conservative Party.” The FT did, however, in the face of considerable controversy, support the Labour Party in 1997, demonstrating the newspaper’s commitment to a liberal ideology rather than partisanship.

Thornhill notes that the paper “clearly backed the Conservatives in 2010,” but suggests that this year, the viewpoints of its journalists are likely to be more divergent.

“I think that the FT will have quite a fierce debate this year about who we support because none of the parties are economically and socially liberal in the way that is the intellectual heritage of the paper.”

He adds, “For the election, pretty much anyone who has a strong opinion on the subject can come along to a special meeting which we hold to thrash it all out and decide who we are going to back. It will be a very interesting debate this year because it is not patently obvious who we support at the moment and I think within the FT there are supporters of all three major parties.”

One of the most significant developments in this year’s General Election campaign has been the extensive use of social media by politicians and political commentators. The Financial Times has had to adapt to this new wave of social media; its readers demand not only an accurate and insightful print edition published every weekday morning, but instant information available through its website and social media about political and economic developments around the world.

“Like all news organisations, we are adapting as we move. It’s a bit like redesigning the yacht as you are sailing along in a gale: it’s a difficult thing to do.” Adapting to a fast-changing world is not without its difficulties but it creates opportunities too. “We are investing heavily in digital journalism and video podcasts as well as interactive graphics and data. That’s incredibly exciting because you can tell stories and present data in ways you could never achieve with a static newspaper.”

Other examples of the way that the Financial Times is adapting include Fast FT; a rolling news service that has a dedicated team of news reporters working from New York, London and Hong Kong. Whilst the FT “can never hope to compete with Bloomberg or Reuters and the comprehensiveness of what they’re doing”, Thornhill explains that the journalists at Fast FT attempt to “select news items that are the most significant in terms of economics and do fast, quick takes on those of around 200 words.”

Whereas BuzzFeed’s metric, for example, is the number of clicks its pages receive, the FT still prides itself on quality readership. Thornhill explains that the paper “wants to know who is reading what as that has enormous value to advertisers in particular. We are definitely out there in social media, it’s enormously important, but it is not the lifeblood of what we are doing.” Some change is necessary and good for the paper but the FT remains very much committed to its core values and Thornhill is determined to ensure that the foundations upon which the paper’s strong reputation is built are not compromised.

“The information that we provide has to be accurate. If people trade on the basis of the information that we publish, we have to get it right. People are absolutely unforgiving if we get things wrong, far more than a general purpose news site. This is one thing we will never compromise on. Our Editor, Lionel Barber, says that we should be right rather than always necessarily first. It is fantastic if we are first, and that is what we are striving to do. But we never want to be scrambling to publish for the sake of publishing material that we do not know is true.”

Given that people are increasingly using the internet in order to keep up with the news, the future of the printed newspaper seems more uncertain than ever. Thornhill, however, regards the printed edition of the paper as “still incredibly important for editorial and commercial reasons”. Circulation has continued to rise and Thornhill suggests that many readers only read the printed version of the FT.

“They see it as a fantastic snapshot of what is going on in the world at one moment in time. There is an extraordinary serendipity about reading a newspaper; you open a page and see what is going on in the Panama Canal for example. People know what to find and where they can find it.

“A lot of our readers love the newspaper and it remains very profitable in terms of the advertising and subscriptions.”

With the General Election approaching, considerable uncertainty surrounds Britain’s short-term political future. The future of the FT is somewhat less uncertain: its famous pink pages are here to stay.

The Conservatives and dubious economic narratives

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The Conservatives’ election campaign seems to be based entirely around the claim that Labour is an economically incompetent party. The problem with this is that when we step away from the right-wing press’ depiction of events from the near and distant past we can see that this narrative is little more than unsubstantiated hearsay.

The Conservative wet dream is the Winter of Discontent. Given as proof of the failure of Keynesian demand management, to this day the Right talk of rocketing inflation alongside unemployment high enough to warrant the famous ‘Labour isn’t working’ posters. As proofs of economic incompetence go, this isn’t a great one.

When Margaret Thatcher left office, inflation was higher than at any point in the famous Winter, while unemployment rose to a peak of double the 1.7 million experienced then. Only in the first year of her premiership was unemployment lower than it had been in 1978.

This tendency towards revisionism can again be seen in the discussion around what caused the 2008 Recession. Since the crash, we have repeatedly heard that the Conservatives are “sorting out the mess Labour left”, as Labour wreaked economic havoc while the Conservatives determinedly tried to stop them.

Typical of the narratives in the right-wing press, while this analysis does have some link to reality it’s fairly tenuous and misses the key points. Labour’s spend and borrow policies did lead to a significant deficit, but you would be pressed to find many academic economists who would maintain this as the main cause of the recession.

Instead, they would probably point to the catastrophic global crash of 2008, which many right-wing commentators seem to forget happened. Or, they might highlight the UK financial sector deregulation, which freed up banks to make extraordinarily speculative gambles with the public’s money. The problem with claiming this was Labour’s fault is that the Conservatives under Thatcher began this trend, and wholeheartedly supported Labour’s decision not to reverse it.

Having seen the tendency of right-wing analysts to create false economic narratives, we can turn to the key one now being thrown at us. This is that the cause of the economic recovery has been austerity, and that therefore this is the road the country must continue down.

To start with, even the IMF has admitted that it was wrong for advocating austerity in the UK. The reasoning given in the 2010-11 was that as debt-loaded countries like Greece and Spain were on the edge of defaulting, deficit reduction must take centre stage in economic plans. This gave the Tories the grounds to cut things fast and (as tens of thousands of disabled people with spare rooms for carers can testify) with a spectacular lack of social conscience, arguing that unless the deficit was quickly reduced firms would lose confidence and stop spending.

In hindsight, it seems this was a serious misprognosis. Unlike Eurozone countries, the Government could not default as the Bank of England could create more money by buying the debt itself, and firms know this so would not just lose confidence and reduce spending. Instead, the effect of austerity has been to create an unevenly felt tightening which massively slowed down the rate of recovery. This was clearly seen in the first two years of austerity, as the economy slowly contracted as people inevitably spent less. Osborne points towards the small growth the country has seen recently and argues it is evidence that his plan has worked. However, although it’s true that the economy eventually picked up, this has only been since the pace of austerity was quietly slowed down after 2012 and is in the context of a worldwide recovery.

In the coming weeks, you will hear and read the near constant refrain that, “Our plan is working, we need to stay on it.” On the contrary, the austerity plan never worked. To borrow Nobel economist Paul Krugman’s description, saying things are feeling better now thanks to austerity is comparable to stopping hitting yourself in the face with a book and remarking how the end of the pain is thanks to the clever course of action you took. Rapid austerity measures were never the right course; rather, they are part of a rich right-wing tradition that fails to recognise its own failings and attempts to paint others as even more incompetent.

Interview: Eudaimonia and culture with Vivienne Westwood

Ever since the first texts of classical Sumerian from around 2600BC, we as a species have been fascinated by works of literature. But the textual jewels that dazzle the eye in these texts are intensely subjective. What may shine for one reader may be dull or bland to another. Flaubert’s affective portraits of the human form may be sublime to some, but repulse others more interested in the disembodied and deconstructed realities of Samuel Beckett and the modernist school. But what all readers can agree upon is this: how intensely individual and pleasurable the experience of reading can be. Reading is a eudaimonistic experience: individuals are self-improved, and therefore happier, through the exploration of the written word.

Vivienne Westwood is a figure who shares the opinion of the individuality and improving effect of reading. Her son, Ben Westwood, recently commented on her eternally avid reading habits developed from childhood that she continues to share with her children. “My mother has always been a reader. Whenever she gets a break or a holiday then there is nothing she likes more than to read in bed. When we visit my brother’s place in the country, we hardly ever see her during the day.”

Speaking of her favourite literary works, it becomes clear that her love of reading is as deep and diverse as her experimentation in the fashion world. As with her movement from the eighteenth century dress to that of the twentieth century, her favourite reading encompasses many time periods and stretches as many oceans.

“My favourite book is probably one of Proust’s. I’m intent on exploring him further by reading him in French. Another favourite of mine is a Chinese book – The Story Of the Stone, sometimes called Dream of the Red Chamber. It was written at the end of the eighteenth century. “It’s fiction, but based upon real characters. It really gives you a world that is so different from mine. The people are so brilliant, you can really empathise with the characters. It’s like living two lives. Great books allow you to live many lives.” But in order to live many lives, Westwood argues that a reader or viewer of art must temporarily forget their own temporality and identity. An artist requires a blank canvas in order to leave space for a visible, lasting imprint to be made, and the mind of a reader can be seen to work in a similar way. In the same manner that one must suspend one’s disbelief when viewing a play truly to enjoy it, a reader must suspend some of their belief in themselves when reading to gain the full benefit from a text or work of art.

“A great, great work of art makes you want to get down on your knees and melt into a pool on the floor. You just can’t believe how amazing some things are. It’s like a kind of meditation. Every work of art – I’ve said this before in my blog – every painting is a vision of the world, as seen through the eyes of an individual who, living at the time of other individuals, would not have had the same view as his next-door neighbour. And he certainly would not have had the same view as someone living ten years prior to him. So if you want to understand the world you live in, you should really try to see it through the eyes of everyone who has lived before you.

“A painting, a book, a piece of music is an individual who has tried to communicate their view of the world. It’s like looking through the wrong end of a telescope. You try to see it as they did. You can manage it a little bit as we are all human beings, but you have another perspective. You’re seeing it from your own evolution, your point in time. It is your roots. You can’t understand the world you live in without it, as everything is coming from you. You become alienated. Like an older person becomes disillusioned, they don’t know what to do with themselves – they have no life.

“The answer is to follow your deep interest. Forget who you are. It’s not important. That’s why I didn’t want to do a book [speaking of her recent autobiography]. I’m not interested in me. My continuity is what I think. If I look up a word in the dictionary, that’s my continuity. Vivienne knows something more. Knowledge is something I’d call solidity. You know something, but you are not sure of it. Maybe you’ll find something else. Now I understand. You have to put things together, plot a perspective. And that’s what I mean by ‘Get a Life’ [one of her recent slogans]. If you don’t have any motivation in life, go to the art gallery.”

But like the changing of literary styles, Westwood emphasises the subjectivity of taste. As one becomes more knowledgeable, what is appreciated changes. “When I tell people to go to the art gallery, I always say to them, ‘If the fire bell went, just go from one room to the next, and think ‘which picture will I save from that room?’ Because if you keep going to the art gallery, you wouldn’t choose that one. What I’m saying is the root of our intelligence is discrimination. It’s the difference between things – what is good, and what isn’t quite so good. A painting is an idea without words. It is a direct experience.”

Literature and art are powerful weapons of change and improvement. Without them, the changing identities around us are left as nothing more than voiceless shades stretching out into the abyss. To become static brings about cultural decay. We must always read and continue to view art to ensure not only our own continuity, but that of the society around us and that which will come after us.

Westwood’s work in activism has always sought to provide the silent with a voice and improve our knowledge of the injustices occurring within society. But what should we read in order to keep our minds stimulated in this age of urban decay and flopping over computer screens. How should we attempt to ‘Get a Life’? “The Grapes of Wrath by John Steinbeck is something I would recommend to people. It’s very easy to read, but full of pertinent ideas. But they have to read stuff like Orwell’s 1984, they absolutely have to. That’s a kind of satire of the world in which we live. It’s so applicable to today and the fragile world in which we all live.”  

Modern pentathletes triumph

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Oxford’s Modern Pentathlon club (OUMPA) has always been strong, and its members lived up to their reputation with a con­vincing victory in both the men’s and women’s varsity matches, held over the Easter Vac. Katie Hickson was also victorious individually for the women.

Not to be confused with Ancient Pentathlon, the Modern kind was originally designed to replicate the demands of a spy behind enemy lines, incorporating fencing, swimming, horse riding and a combined event of shooting and running. As such, unlike many other multi-event sports, a good pentathlete is required to have great technical ability in very different areas; a requirement that makes the sport ex­tremely challenging, and attracts athletes from many different backgrounds.

This year, Oxford entered varsity on the back of significant BUCS success, so they could be confident of their chances. However, there was reason to be wary of their opposition, with Cambridge claiming the team title at BUCS and Chattenton unable to compete at varsity, leading to an intriguing battle ahead for the two-day event held at Bradbourne school.

Oxford took a commanding advantage from the first event on Day One in both six-to-score competitions, out-fencing their opponents to take 300+ point advantages, a result of solid performances from every individual, led by Hugo Fleming, Kouji Urata (960 points each) and Leigh Paton (1040 points). After the swim­ming, Urata took the overall lead, with a second-placed finish, his team once again packing in close behind to extend their advantage. On the women’s side, Cam­bridge launched a fightback and took a slight lead into the ride, Henny Dillon taking her second individual victory of the day.

The next event, the ride, is the most unpre­dictable of the series, with competitors required to use a horse on which they have had no experience, so there is al­ways an accompanied risk that horse and rider will not respond well together. Riders are scored according to the number of jumps that they knock down. Oxford again produced a solid performance to take commanding advantages into the final events of both competitions. In the individual standings, consistency proved to be key for the women as Henny Dillon picked up no points and thus slipped down the standings, while Katie Hickson faced only a slight deficit with her best event yet to come. The men’s com­petition was more finely poised, with the major­ity of the field only split by a small number of points, so all was up for grabs.

It was indeed Hickson who stormed to victory in the combined event, using the speed that has earned her selection for the cross country Blues team for the past two years to take a repeat of her individual victory last year. The men’s fin­ish proved to be much closer, with Alex Fraser (O) and Paul Hodgson (C) separated only by a photograph finish.

It was Hodgson that ultimately triumphed as a result of his fastest time of the day in the combined event, with a total 5256 points to 5248 after all five events had been completed. Despite this, Oxford managed to restrict Cambridge to a narrow victory in the combined event and thus hang on to regain the varsity trophy that they had relinquished last year. Victory in both re­serves’ matches only added to what was already an incredibly successful weekend for the Dark Blues.

Should Designers Go Digital?

In the world of designer brands, a core group of stores has long resisted the pull of e-commerce. Wanting to remain both exclusive and elusive, designer powerhouses including Chanel, Marc Jacobs and Céline have rejected the digital world and only sold their products in their boutiques.

Yet it seems that the designer world is starting to crack; only a couple of weeks ago, French luxury-brand Chanel announced their plans to launch a form of e-commerce by the end of next year. However, they delivered this far more quickly. As of April 15th one can officially shop the new ‘Coco Crush’ range of jewellery from Chanel through the high-end online shopping site Net-A-Porter. Hoorah.

Coco Crush consists of six pieces of jewellery – five rings and a cuff – in 18-karat white and yellow gold. All feature the brand’s iconic quilted design, and are advertised as ‘exceptional styles’ that will ‘instantly elevate your favourite lace, denim or leather.’

This is the first time Chanel has ever sold anything other than sunglasses, cosmetics, skincare and fragrance online and by the looks of it, the strategy is proving successful: Just 12 hours after the e-commercial launch and the cuff, priced at £13,500, has already sold out. Fast work, Chanel.

Part of Chanel’s reasoning behind entering a partnership with Net-A-Porter is the quality of the digital shopping experience they have provided. Net-A-Porter has gone all-out to create their own digital pop-up shop on the website. This is only open for three weeks and so adds to the air of exclusivity. Along with the usual zoom/angle features we would expect when online shopping, the product description for each item includes a video of the piece being modelled, with care taken to show the intricate ‘Chanel’ inscription on the inside. This ‘Coco Crush world’ is also available on tablet and mobiles meaning that you can shop as and when you please.

So, what changed Chanel’s mind? It was after all just over a year ago that Chanel’s President of Fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, justified the brand’s decision not to expand online, by explaining that: “Fashion is about clothing, and clothing you need to see, to feel, to understand. To be able to wear Chanel clothes, you need to try them on.”

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It appears that Chanel’s new dalliance with e-commerce is being framed as an “evolution to better serve customers.” Speaking recently with WWD, Pavlovsky recognised that many of Chanel’s current or potential customers do not have the time to go to visit their boutiques, and that having a range of products available online is more convenient. As a result, he describes how their new venture is “more e-service than a pure e-commerce approach.”

And it appears that Chanel is just the latest designer domino to fall to e-commerce, or rather e-service; Burberry, Moschino, Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent are just a few fashion powerhouses who have got on board in the past couple of years.

Fendi has also followed a similar path. Just a couple of months ago, Fendi released its plans to sell its high-end clothing and leather goods online on its own e-commerce site.  Prior to this, it had, as Chanel has just done, only sold goods through sites such as Net-a-Porter and Bergdorf Goodman. However,  after trialling an e-commerce site when celebrating the anniversary of its classic Baguette bag, it recognised the benefits of maximising its online potential.

There are of course, those who still resist. Despite being worn by some of the world’s most stylish women, Céline remains determined to avoid the temptations of e-commerce to the extent that the brand has neither a Twitter nor an Instagram feed. CEO Marco Gobbetti explains that this strategy has been employed to set Céline apart from its competitors. “I feel fashion has become overcrowded and has made a lot of noise on the Internet,” Gobbetti states, so “being quiet gives more value to what we do.”

In addition, Gobbetti echoes Pavlovsky’s original reservations about preserving the customer’s shopping experience: “We think it is important to touch the clothes—much of what is special is lost on e-commerce. We want to control what we do. We control from the design and the production. If we make mistakes they are our own.”

With these concerns in mind, we are left to speculate about what the future holds for Chanel and the luxury brand’s online presence. It is likely that it may follow a similar path as Fendi and branch out to its own e-commerce site in the near future. Evidently Chanel’s e-commerce escapades do not yet feature the sale of fashion, but with the ‘Coco Crush’ launch as successful as it currently is, surely this won’t be far away in the future. For the French power-house exclusivity is paramount. Whether this will be compromised by going online is something we will have to wait to find out. 

Trinity Term Sports Preview

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If the triumph that was the Dark Blue clean sweep on the Tideway wasn’t enough to sat­isfy your Oxford sporting needs through­out the Vac, fear not: Trinity Term has arrived. Whilst we all live in hope that the summer weather has not already been and gone over the last couple of weeks, there are a whole host of events that should well and truly heat up this term’s sporting calendar.

Lame puns aside, if you’re a fan of American sports, then you may have followed the NCAA ‘March Madness’ Basketball tournament dur­ing the vac. This is a high-stakes tournament that pits the best student ‘ballers’ in America against each other in a highly publicised and enthralling competition, which ultimately saw Duke University come out on top, defeat­ing Wisconsin in the final. Not one to be overlooked, Oxford’s answer to this event is strong, and comes early in Trinity Term: Croquet Cuppers, the sporting phenomenon once again set to take the university – and eventually the world – by storm. With over 2000 people participating in last year’s edition, it was the largest sporting event in University history, and with the incentive of prize money and alcohol for winners and top performers, similar numbers are anticipated. The sign-up window for this year’s event closes on Saturday of 0th Week (25th April).

With the warm weather season beginning, Trinity is an especially busy term for the Ath­letics Club, which has a number of marquee events packing out an exciting calendar. First, they will travel to Cambridge on 16th May for their varsity showdown, looking to make amends for the defeat suffered in the 2014 varsity.

However, by the end of term the two squads will have to let bygones be bygones in order to join forces for when they welcome the Athletics Clubs of Harvard and Yale to Iffley Road on 29th June for the 45th edition of this historic meet.

This transatlantic rivalry is laden with his­tory, with the first such event taking place in 1899, only a few years after the first Olympic Games of the modern era. After successive de­feats for Oxford and Cambridge at the hands of Harvard and Yale in 2011 and 2013, the Light and Dark Blues will be keen to return the trophy to this side of the pond in what should be a magnificent spectacle.

For many, the summer is synonymous with the sound of leather on willow at the near­est park or cricket ground. If you are one of these people, there will certainly be plenty for you to get excited about, as this term is packed full of tantalising fixtures. Both the men and women’s cricket sides will take on Cambridge in Twenty20 on 12th June and also in One Day matches at Lord’s on 27th June, as each University strives to establish absolute cricketing dominance over the other. The grand finale for the Blues cricketers will come in the form of the 170th varsity match at the Fenner’s Cricket Ground in Cambridge. The match will take place over four days, from 30th June to 3rd July, as the men’s team will seek a repeat of their 2013 victory.

For those among us who are especially keen on strawberries and cream, but can’t quite wait until the end of June for Wimble­don, look no further than the tennis varsity on 5th and 6th June. If total tennis immersion is your goal this summer, then cheering the men’s and women’s teams to victory in these matches would be the perfect warm up to the French Open finalson the same weekend.

Lastly, 5th Week of Trinity Term is a date rowers all over Oxford have had circled since the last bumps of Torpids, as the colleges will drain of students and the riverbanks will become lined with spectators for the carnage of Summer VIIIs. This event in particular doesn’t need a great deal of explanation, as your rower friends will no doubt be recruit­ing you for support. Regardless, grab as many friends as you can and head down to the river to support your college

Follow us @CherwellSport for the latest updates, gossip and news.

What the Women’s Boat Race means for female sport

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When I was little, I used to dream that, for whatever sport had caught my fancy that week, there would suddenly be the implementation of mixed Ashes, or a mixed Rugby World Cup, or a mixed Boat Race.

Women (including myself, obviously), would play alongside the men, in front of the crowds, in the big stadiums, and it would be wonderful. These dreams had little do to with a pathological hatred of the sport of my own sex or even simply my competitive drive to be the best of everyone, but a lack of exposure to female sport. More specifically, a lack of exposure to the occasion of female sport. The first scene in Bend It Like Beckham, in which a young girl dreams of being the next big thing in male football, is based upon a need for celebration, recognition and the desire to be the best you can be. The Boat Race 2015, for the first time, gave this opportunity to female rowers.

To many people, the existence of a female Boat Race was practically unknown. The male Boat Race was a stalwart of the Brit­ish sporting calendar, with entire families bleeding the blue of a university that they had no connection with, except on Boat Race Day.

For the students of Oxford and Cambridge, it was a chance to scream about your uni­versity to anyone who would listen, despite a hatred of the cult of rowing for the other 364 days of the year. Yet, for the women, this was not the case. Nobody came to Henley, the former location of the women’s Boat Race, to shout and scream. The BBC barely wrote a paragraph for them, and certainly no fami­lies developed irrational rivalries over which crew won.

Their race was confined to the insular rowing world, and to a thread on RowChat. These women, who had as little sleep, ate just as many raw eggs and trained just as hard as their male counterparts, got only the small­est fraction of the recognition. However, this year, they burst onto the scene, the jewel in the crown of Oxbridge rowing.

It was a shame, in a way, that Cambridge were not simply better, as the female races caused the BBC producers headaches fit­ting the crews into the same shot. Word in the media tent after the race was that the Oxford crew had been asked by the Boat Race company to lower their stroke rate once they got over a boat length ahead. But these were highly trained athletes and the spectre of Oxford powering off into the glorious after­noon was a sure vindication of the tenacity of these women.

Ultimately, what was presented was not only two crews for any Oxonian to be im­mensely proud, but also a team of women to envy, admire and aspire to. It is a rare event in sport that women get the same opportu­nity for occasion, yet 4.8 million tuned in to watch the first ever women’s Boat Race on the tideway.

To put this into perspective, the Wimble­don 2014 Ladies’ Singles final only attracted a peak of 3.1 million viewers. As former Dark Blue Dan Snow put it, “Most televised sport is a carnival of misogyny, so it is great news that the Boat Race is leading the way in en­suring that women take their rightful place alongside men”.

Doing a degree at either Oxford or Cam­bridge is hard enough, without doing a sport as demanding as rowing on top. From this year onwards, we now have the opportunity to marvel at the pure impressiveness of all of our Blues rowers, as we have for so many years at the men.

This is a year of equal opportunity, from the women’s Boat Race, to the move of the women’s rugby to Twickenham. But there’s still an enormous amount of progress to be made.

At the Boat Race weigh-in, Helena Mor­rissey, CEO of Newton Asset Management and a tireless campaigner for female equality in the boardroom and on the sports field, spoke of the yawning chasm in funding for female sport. She pointed out only 0.7% of sporting sponsorship goes exclusively to women, a staggering statistic. Clare Balding, the star BBC presenter, perhaps put it best when asked why she had chosen to present the Boat Race over the Grand National this year, “I’m a firm believer in the importance of this for women’s sport, and for its repercussions to business, society and inspiring other female athletes.”

We can be proud that Oxford and Cam­bridge now lead the world on sporting equality and it’s even better that our women clearly have the competitive edge. They can only achieve true equality if we give them as much support as a university as the men’s team have received in the past, and let’s be honest, it’s nice to have every opportunity to watch the Light Blues lose.