Thursday 10th July 2025
Blog Page 1252

Equal Opportunity: Revolution or Trend?

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Boyfriends everywhere have long been perplexed by their girlfriends who insist on cavorting in their oversized shirts, which are then never seen again. Fashion has never been afraid to experiment with gender, and borrowing from the boys in a bid for androgyny is nothing revolutionary. But this season, clothing takes a ground-breaking stance to gender, with the introduction of the gender-neutral wardrobe.

With models lining up in all-black outfits and silver masks, the setting of Rad Hourani’s show fits seamlessly into the couture schedule. However, the masks are not just a unique aesthetic experiment; they are intended to remove any gender differences between the models. Several other designers are joining the movement, with Miuccia Prada declaring backstage, “I think to people, not to gender.”

Similar to Hourani, she snubbed the traditional approach to showing menswear and womenswear on separate catwalks, and fused the two on one runway saying, “I think the combination is more real.” JW Anderson, Vivienne Westwood, and Givenchy have all jumped on the bandwagon, leading Laura Weir, writer for Vogue, to say, “Fashion is moving beyond the straightforward notion of borrowing from the boys towards a freewheeling, fabulously grey area where clothes are gender-neutral.”

So is that it? Are men and women now living parallel lives requiring clothes that reflect this equality? It is no secret that trends dominating Fashion Week in the past have not always translated to real wardrobes. Remember the explosion of yellow-diamond grills a fews years back? Yeah, just like braces, except less effective and entirely impractical for errands down Cornmarket. Who’s to say that the unisex wardrobe will ever become a reality? Well, Selfridges say. The department store is putting into action the dissemination of this idea in the form of a pop-up retail project and three floors of unisex fashion. To reflect the genderless nature of the clothing, traditional mannequins have also been scrapped. Judd Crane stated, “We want to take our customers on a journey where they can shop and dress without limitations or stereotypes, enabling fashion to exist as a purer expression of self.”

Here, unisex brands such as Hood by Air, KTZ and 69 (thinly veiled pun there) will be stocked.

But is this a revolution or just a passing trend elevated to a phenomenon in response to the recent media spotlight on the discussion of gender? Jonathan Anderson takes a particularly cynical view. “For me, putting men and women on the same catwalk at the same time is probably a reaction to the idea of condensed seasons. It is easier to show menswer at the same time because the production schedule for both collections are similar.” So the unisex wardrobe is a not a movement towards equality but rather towards practicality – fab! A more likely explanation is that it’s more about garments for garments’ sake. T-shirts, jeans, duffel coats, biker jackets – it all means the same thing, no matter if it’s a man or woman wearing it. They are a neutral zone.

The trend appears to be just that, a trend, and not grounded in gender neutrality at all. It is the logical furtherance of the ‘boyfriendfit’, the antithesis to the ‘shapely silhouette’. Loose pieces cut away from the body that happen not to betray shape and resultantly are appropriate for unisex production. ‘Gender neutrality’ is the product of the trend rather than its motivating force. As far as pragmatic application goes, however flexible our perceptions of gender and fashion become, our bodies will always be different and there will always be both customers who enjoy androgyny and those who love to exude, respectively, masculin- and femininity

"Be prepared to argue"

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Part of C+’s investigation into private student housing

One student told Cherwell how Premier had tried to charge them £400 for cleaning after they left their property. The tenants successfully reduced the bill to £35 after disputing the charge.

As their lease was coming to an end, a Premier employee visited to check the house and confirmed that they were “looking after the property well”, mentioning that they should clean the property thoroughly in order to avoid paying any cleaning fees. The students subsequently spent an afternoon cleaning it, but a few weeks later their checkout report had charged them £396.40 for cleaning fees.

As the tenants investigated the charge, they realised that on the closing report for the inventory, it was stated that the property should be cleaned to “a fair standard” – yet on the checkout report, the students had been charged for cleaning “to a professional stan- dard”. Guidelines on mydeposits.co.uk also supported the contention that the letting agent shouldn’t try to better the property, but should charge the tenant only what they are responsible for.

Furthermore, Premier was also the letting agent for the tenants’ neighbours, who received an almost identical checkout report, highlighting similar issues such as limescale and minor stains. However, the neighbours were charged £35 – Premier themselves were not responsible for the checkout form because the letting was carried out on a dif- ferent legal basis. Premier had tried to make the tenants pay over ten times the amount the landlord had charged their neighbours for exactly the same cleaning work.

A ‘fair wear and tear’ clause was also contained within the tenancy agreement, which, according to an interpretation by the House of Lords, allows “reasonable use of the premises by the Tenant and the ordinary operation of natural forces”. The tenants felt that the few remaining problems with the property, according to the checkout report, all “fell under wear and tear”.

Recalling how they were made to wait weeks for replies, the student commented, “perhaps they were just hoping that we would give up. It seemed that because we were an easy target, they’d deliberately tried to throw the book at us without actually reading the book first”. It took several months, but the £400 was eventually reduced to £35.

Premier responded to these claims, explaining that the person responsible for the £400 charge had been fired, and admitting that it had been “excessive” to charge the house’s residents that amount for cleaning. 

The student’s advice: 

  • Make sure you take many pictures at the start of your tenancy.
  • Consult the documents on mydeposits.co.uk and the tenancy agreement –make sure you know what you’re responsible for.
  • Make sure fair wear and tear appropriate for a student tenancy has been considered in any charges
  • Remember that the deposit is not the property of the landlord but remains the property of the tenant. Until a settlement has been agreed, any charges that are levied are only proposed charges.
  • Most importantly, be prepared to argue. Very often, students are in the right, but don’t bother to stand their ground. Estate agents count on this, so don’t give them that advantage. Fight your corner.

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The Investigation 

Fire alarm silenced and a collapsed ceiling

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Part of C+’s investigation into private student housing

Two weeks before we were due to move into the property, we were told that our original move in date was now no longer possible, as they still had work on the property to do. When we arrived, remnants of building work were still in the kitchen and a broken radiator had not been removed.

Even after paying the first month of rent, for the second month our original negotiator from the letting agency tried to claim that our rent was in fact £300 higher than was set out in our amended tenancy agreement and took several days to admit he was being fraudulent and incorrect.

One week into the tenancy, the fire alarm system developed a fault and for a day the alarm went off continuously. An electrician was called but only managed to silence the system and remove one of the fire alarms in the hallway. At our HMO inspection last week, we discovered that the system had in fact been permanently silenced and in the event of a fire, the alarm would not have gone off.

One month into the tenancy, a damp patch which had been spreading on the ceiling of Tenant 1’s room began to bulge and eventually burst over the tenant’s bed, creating a large hole in the ceiling. For ages the bath above this room had been leaking into the ceiling. The room suffered from unhealthy levels of damp and broken plaster and, as such, Tenant 1 was displaced onto a mattress in the living room, creating a fire hazard for Tenant 2 as this obstructed access to a second bedroom. This hole took 3 weeks for the landlord to fix.

Tenant 1 moved back into his room after the hole had been covered, but the bath above was still being resealed. We were told that after 48 hours we would be able to use the shower, which we did, only to find that in fixing the leak, the plumber had forgotten to reconnect the pipes. Water flowed into the ceiling of Tenant 1’s room and through the holes which hadn’t yet been plastered – we had cascades of water flowing from the ceiling, soaking Tenant 1’s bed and wardrobe, forcing him back into the living room.

I was on the phone to S&C pretty much every day, attempting to get some action on the problems. I’ve never had any dealings with the landlord except once when he came to view the issues. However, we had dealings with two plumbers, one usually sent from the landlord and the other sent from the let- ting agents. The second plumber only came because the first plumber is, according to the agent, “notoriously unreliable and quite often doesn’t turn up” – but the landlord apparently used him because he was cheaper.

We are currently in disagreement with them over compensation. Because we’re students I think they’re aware we don’t really have any legal knowhow to take action against them. Everything is completed to the bare, bare minimum. 

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S&C did not reply to our request for comment.

The Investigation

Still no answers on rigged NUS referendum

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THE UNIVERSITY PROCTORS have refused to announce whether there are any results from the Student Disciplinary Panel’s (SDP) investigation into the “serious irregularities” discovered in May’s OUSU referendum on its affiliation to the National Union of Students (NUS).

The University’s regulations state, “No complaint made by the Proctors shall be heard by the Student Disciplinary Panel more than six months after the date of the first interview, unless the Chairman or ViceChairman sitting on that occasion decides at his or her discretion to allow the complaint to be heard on the grounds that there is good cause for the delay.” Cherwell understands that it has now been more than six months since the complaint was made and interviews began.

OUSU President Louis Trup told Cherwell, “It has been a long time since the NUS referendum, and I am frustrated with the lack of response from the Proctors on the issue. On many occasions I have asked the Proctors for more information about the current status of the investigation, but they have not told me anything. I understand that if the Proctors do make a decision, this will not be made public, which for me is a highly frustrating element to the way in which they operate. This concern can now be voiced by OUSU officers, as we have this year managed to get OUSU representation on the university committee which oversees the work of the Proctors’ Office.

“I have made it clear at many OUSU Council meetings that if the investigation finds that individuals engaged in electoral malpractice, then I believe they should be held accountable for their actions.

“OUSU has adopted a new voting system to ensure that any future referendum or election cannot be manipulated in the same way.”

A University spokesperson responded, saying, “The subjects and outcomes of all Proctors’ investigations are confidential and are not made public.”

A Junior Tribunal declared the referendum, which was held to determine whether or not OUSU should remain affiliated to the NUS, void on Monday 26th May 2014. This was after the leader of the campaign to disaffiliate, Jack Matthews, highlighted misuse of the Unique Voter Codes (UVCs) issued for the online voting system mi-vote.com in an official complaint. Matthews declined to comment when Cherwell approached him on the expiration of his complaint.

It was reported at the time that over 1,000 extra voter codes were used to cast votes for ‘Believe In Oxford’, supposedly all from the same location.

Last year’s OUSU President Tom Rutland, who was in charge of the student union at the time of the referendum and led the ‘Yes to NUS’ campaign, told Cherwell, “It’s frustrating that the University hasn’t publicly said anything since it was referred to them. Students deserve to know the outcome of the investigation into evidence that the vote was intentionally sabotaged.”

Last May, following the announcement of the referendum being declared void, Jack Matthews said to Cherwell, “I welcome the result of the Junior Tribunal – it is absolutely right that the entire Referendum has been voided.

“We must now wait for a response from other investigations which will seek to discover who perpetrated this crime.”

Other students also expressed their frustation at the lack of news.

Third year Hilda’s student Helena Dollimore said, “Either the University is incompetent and hasn’t managed to work out how the referendum was fiddled and which IP address was responsible, or they’re deliberately keeping the results of the investigation secret. If the latter, it sends out completely the wrong message for a university to effectively not punish serious electoral fraud, which gets you jail time in the real world.”

Louis Trup, who was then OUSU Presidentelect, remarked at the time, “I am genuinely shocked to hear of the electoral malpractice that has led to the results of the NUS referendum being declared void. It’s obviously a terrible thing to happen, but I just can’t really believe anybody cared enough to go to the trouble of sending off so many votes.”

Rutland took a motion to OUSU Council in 7th Week of Trinity last year to reaffiliate to the NUS after the news that the referendum had been tampered with was revealed to the general student population. OUSU then decided to vote through his motion.

The Oxford University Student Handbook reveals that the Student Disciplinary Panel, the University body to which the case was referred, can punish those who break regulations in several different ways. The body can issue punishments ranging from “a fine of any size” to rusticating students for “whatever period of time it [the SDC] thinks fit” or even expulsion from membership of the University.

Second year chemist Harry Bush told Cherwell, “The actual NUS referendum sort of passed me by really, although my friends talked about the fact it might have been rigged quite a lot. It does seem a bit bizarre that we haven’t been told anything about what’s been happening since the investigation was launched.”

Another student said they hoped “the entire University would be informed of the developments soon.”

The student conduct section of the University regulations makes clear that complaints of this nature are supposed to be dealt with in full confidentiality.

The same section also maintains, “All those who are involved in procedures for investigating an allegation, including witnesses, representatives, and persons providing evidence and/or advice, have a duty to maintain confidentiality.”

It is unknown if any actions have been taken towards any students and whether any more information will be made public.

Exeter votes to update harassment policy

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EXETER COLLEGE JCR has voted in favour of updating their harassment policy and encouraging College authorities to adopt the changes, in line with the recent updates made to University wide harassment policy.

The new sexual harassment policy adopted by the University last year following a successful campaign by OUSU and ‘It Happens Here’, is designed to clarify the process of complaints.

However, this change in university policy does not affect individual colleges, leading to criticisms from some students that harassment policies in college can still have more complicated guidelines, making them less clear, secure and supportive.

OUSU’s Vice-President for Women, Anna Bradshaw, urged students in December to contact college representatives and encourage them to update internal harassment policy.

The motion at Exeter was proposed by third year English student Ella Richards, who has been involved in the campaign to encourage colleges to change their policies, and seconded by JCR welfare respresentative Beatrice Natzler.

Natzler told Cherwell, “At the JCR meeting we discussed the benefits of the new harassment policy. One benefit is that procedures are laid out much more clearly than in the old policy.

“The new policy also allows someone making a complaint to skip steps, such as mediation, that they might not feel comfortable with.”

Exeter JCR President Tutku Bektas also commented, “We recognise the sheer number of harassment incidents happening around the University every year and to this end, we want to make sure that there is a more certain and sound framework which would allow the college to deal with such sensitive issues in a more efficient and professional way.”

The JCR President also emphasised the importance of the new policies and bringing colleges on board, telling Cherwell, “The Exeter JCR believes that this is a crucial topic and we will be taking the necessary steps to campaign for it.”

Alice Vacani, who has been working on the campaign at Hertford, commented, “I’m really proud of the work undertaken by Ella and other members of Exeter JCR to push this through.”

Exeter’s decision is part of a wider drive by the Harassment Policy Working group to encourage students throughout the University to put forward updated and clear college harassment policies.

The Harassment Policy working group has been holding equipping training, which has attracted students from a number of colleges who want to change their college policies, whilst the University’s Equalities and Diversity unit has been providing information on how the policies work and how they can be incorporated by colleges.

After her successful lobbying to have the university policy updated, Bradshaw commented, “I have been excited to hear this week that a number of common rooms have already begun to work with their colleges to update college harassment policies.

“Good harassment policies are absolutely vital to protecting and supporting students, particularly women students.”

Forget Magna Carta: discover the oldest English law codes

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As politician after politician has been quick to seize on over the last year to advance various legal or judicial policies, 2015 marks the 800th anniversary of the signing of the Magna Carta. Recently, however, a set of even older and more interesting law codes have been made available to the public after the University of Manchester digitised and published them online. The Textus Roffensis, two separate early Twelfth Century manuscripts contained within a single book, includes the earliest record of written English in existence: the law-codes of King Æthelbert of Kent, which date back to the early 600s.

Æthelbert’s laws, written in a very early form of Old English, deal with compensation for wrongdoing, with the size of the recompense dependent upon the social status of the victim. If a freeman stole from the king, for example, he would be expected to pay nine-fold compensation. Another fascinating inclusion is the earliest copy of the Coronation Charter of King Henry I, written in 1100, which includes, amongst various decrees, a pardon of all murders committed before that time and a ban on the right to mint money. The wording of this Charter heavily influenced the Magna Carta and, through it, the American Declaration of Independence.

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Seeing the vellum pages of the manuscript is a genuine privilege. Aside from the beauty of the scribe’s handwriting, which appears in many different colours of ink, there are some incredible ornamentations. The most striking of these is a letter ‘R’ at the beginning of the word ‘Regnante’, formed out of a saint and a green and vermilion winged dragon. It opens the cartulary of Rochester Priory on page 245 of the manuscript, and may have been an attempt to distinguish Rochester, where the manuscript was compiled and is currently held, as a distinct and learned community. The vivid colour and fine detail are perfectly visible and one can zoom in by up to 200 per cent without losing quality; a testament to the value of digitised medieval manuscripts.

Flicking through the pages, you can see clear signs of water damage where the book was dropped in either the Thames or the Medway in the early Sixteenth century. One gets a real sense of the journey through time this book has endured, carrying with it generation after generation of English laws, the more recent ones building upon the older. The British Library has described it as “Britain’s hidden treasure” and it is accessible to anyone at a single click. You should take this first opportunity to catch a unique glimpse into the earliest record of English legal history.

Investigation: Private Student Housing

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Our findings from this investigation suggests 55 per cent of Oxford’s student tenants were dissatisfied with the conditions of their private house.

The problems that students brought up in both our survey and interviews ranged from damp and mould – reported by 30 per cent of respondents – to more severe problems, which potentially demonstrate a breach of the law.

Other articles in this investigation:

 

“A cynical and greedy industry”

Fire alarms and boilers were left broken for weeks. Agencies allegedly lied about the rent they owed students. Some students told us how the houses for which they had signed tenancy agreements were not fully built. Tenants were reportedly forced to clean up raw sewage from their conservatory floor after a pipe burst, the result of shoddy maintenance work.

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG_ORIGINAL%%10904%%[/mm-hide-text]A student told us that the manhole for the sewage pipe that was under their carpet had not been secured properly and burst. The tenants were forced to clean up the leaked sewage themselves.

One student told us about being charged £2,000 for electricity used by builders working on the house.

The reason, they surmised, was that the letting agency in charge of their house “never paid for the electricity that the construction workers used all summer long”. 

Even after they turned off the electricity in all their rooms, the bill “still kept going up”, and they told us that every morning the builders asked if they could run a power cord into their front hall socket. 

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Numerous complaints were also made about the attitudes of letting agents. Comments such as “Did your parents tell you to ask this?” were common, leading to more bad feeling between letting agents and tenants.

“They took such a long time to respond, perhaps hoping that we’d just give up”

Many of the students we interviewed were angry about the length of time it took agencies to reply to their emails, some of them being pleas for urgently needed repairs. In fact, only two of the agencies we contacted – Premier and
Taylor’s – appeared to take the concerns of the people we interviewed seriously by committing to investigating them further.

A spokesperson from Taylor’s told us, “Each property varies depending on what we do for the Landlord (Introduction Only or Fully Managed),” and suggested that the student in question get in contact with the agency. The student told Cherwell she had done this on many occasions.

Some considered this reluctance to reply a tactic by letting agents to force students to give up on their demands. One commented, “They took such a long time to respond to our emails, perhaps hoping that we’d just give up.”

The problem of whether it was the landlords or the letting agents who were responsible for various problems was also a recurrent theme throughout the investigation. Grace Maher, renting with Premier, told C+ that the agency “washed their hands of us”, with Premier claiming that the house was “unmanaged” — in other words, not Premier’s responsibility, but the landlord’s.

Although this investigation centres upon a few agencies – S&C, Scott Fraser, Premier, Taylor’s and RMA – we also received complaints about students’ experiences with others, such as Manor House and Digs Property Management.

The latter agency responded to these allegations, saying, “We have no record of the complaints made against us about dehumidifiers and rodents […] but that might be because a lot of problems are dealt with directly through the
landlords.” 

They said that they were keen to hear about any more problems.

The students who we interviewed above all stressed the importance of researching letting agencies before signing anything, while one advised, “Don’t be afraid to fight and be forceful.”

Premier

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Premier were one of three letting agencies to respond after C+ sent them a list of the issues that the students we spoke to had with them. One of their partners asked me to bring names and addresses “in relation to the ‘several complaints’ you have had”, and agreed to investigate the issues further.

One of these complaints relates to someone who says they were charged £400 for cleaning, despite being told by a member of staff that they were taking good care of the property. Meanwhile, the check-out report of the house next door stated a similar level of cleanliness, but were only charged a mere £35 – Jonathon Turnbull’s piece relates how the tenants successfully got the cleaning bill reduced.

The Premier partner told me that the person who dealt with that house had since been fired, commenting that the “£400 charge sounds a bit excessive, especially if they are taking care of the property”.

Another case related to an eight bedroom house on Divinity Road, which was in the process of being converted from a six bedroom property. Grace Maher, who graduated last year, told C+ how “the date that we were supposed to be moving into the property was delayed three times.

“All eight of us eventually arrived to find the house half-completed (without any warning from the landlord or the agents): there weren’t stairs between the top floors; there wasn’t a full wall to our living room; there weren’t doors to some of the rooms; all the rooms were filled with building materials.”

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG_ORIGINAL%%10903%%[/mm-hide-text] 1 in 5 students reported unfinished building work or poor quality maintenance

She explained, “The landlady was initially defensive (claiming it wasn’t her fault but the builders’) but became apologetic (especially when questioned as to why she hadn’t warned us before we all made our way to Oxford) and eventually agreed to refund us some of our expenses.

“Premier were totally useless – they have an office about 200m from the house but claimed to know nothing about the building works and washed their hands of us. We’d each paid £100 in agency fees by this point, but they claimed that since the property was managed by the landlord, it really wasn’t their problem, and they didn’t offer any compensation or apologies.

“The house was completed about a week later with quite a lot of shoddy work which caused problems, such as mould, leaks, and electrical issues.”

When C+ raised the case with Premier, the partner knew immediately which house I meant, commenting that their move-in day was “an absolute nightmare”. He had “rung the landlady every day throughout the week leading up to the move in date. While she assured me that the property would be ready at first, she stopped answering her phone a few days beforehand.”

He added, “There’s only so much you can do as a letting agent aside from going down to the house and doing the building work yourself.”

Responding to the claims that they “washed their hands” of the tenants, he reminded me of the difference between “managed” and “unmanaged” properties – in the former case, a landlord uses an agency to manage leases and tenants, while the landlord deals with “unmanaged” properties directly.

In response to the suggestion that students are seen as an “easy target”, the partner told me, “When a student walks through the door they’re a client just like everyone else. What I often find quite scary is how easily students sign up to leases without taking it away and thinking about it, and we then get calls from parents saying, ‘Why have you made my child sign this?’”

The partner said he was open to discussing with students their feedback from their private housing experiences, informing me that Premier had been in contact with Brookes Student Union representatives in particular. “You’re welcome to come and do half a day’s work with me so you can see first hand the respect we give each and every one of our clients,” he told me.

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Loading the Canon: Darkness at Noon

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Arthur Koestler’s Darkness at Noon is the definitive novel of the so called ‘Midnight of the century’, under the cover of which Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union divided Europe between themselves. Few writers can resist comparing this story of an ill-favoured Soviet comrade’s nightmarish experiences in prison to that other, more GCSE-friendly, anti-totalitarian tract, 1984 (nor, it appears, can I!). Yet the comparison is unfortunately rarely made the other way around. While ownership of Orwell’s novel has become the badge of honour for any 14 year old with radical pretensions, Koestler’s masterpiece is less well known. This is a shame, though a perfectly explicable one. It is easy to sympathise with Winston Smith, Orwell’s hero, because he is an everyman, whose lack of faults is simply part of his lack of a personality. Koestler presents the reader with something more discomforting – a protagonist who has fallen foul of the barbarous regime which he has spent 40 years administering.

The protagonist, Rubashov, garners the reader’s sympathy through being a free thinker in an environment toxic to free thought, increasingly disillusioned with his party’s doctrine, “Truth is what is useful to humanity, falsehood what is harmful”, and even more so with their idea of what is useful. Rubashov’s interrogators, like Dostoevsky’s inquisitor, feel that they do not only have to break their victim, but convince him of the wrongness of his heretical opinions. In other words, and in a brilliantly paradoxical fashion, this pair of fervent atheists are intent on saving Rubashov’s soul. This is the most obvious manifestation of Koestler’s comparison of the Party with history’s nastiest incarnations of the clergy – especially the Spanish Inquisition. It is a shrewd move by Koestler, the project of whose novel is to ask why, in the show trials of the 30s, the Soviets were so intent on proving the loyalty of the accused before killing them.

This may not be a novel for 5th week; but it is an excruciatingly believable portrait of a man caught in a battle of ideas he knows will end violently for him. Yet more harrowing is the realisation of how autobiographical the book is. To realise this, we need not know anything about Koestler’s life – that Darkness at Noon is true experience reimagined is made clear through the meticulous writing and lack of melodrama of its author’s portrayal of Rubashov’s trials, both legal and physical.

“Who are you?” Grayson Perry wants to find out

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The National Portrait Gallery is an odd place to decide to visit. There are probably more (and better) portraits on display next door, in the National Gallery. The difference, of course, is that the portraits here are of famous people, which raises the question of what exactly people go to see – the portraits, or the people in them? Regardless, anyone visiting it over the last three months, and until March 15th, would also see Grayson Perry’s new installation, Who are You?, integrated into the first floor collections, which covers Nineteenth and Twentieth Century figures.

Consisting of 14 works in various media, the exhibition presents portraits of people grappling with their identity. Perry’s question ‘Who are You?’ is, as the leaflet, promotional material, and three-part television programme explained, intended to uncover these internal conflicts of identity, and the identification of people with distinct cultural groups. The exhibition begins with two general works, a self-portrait in which Perry portrays himself as a fortified city, with different buildings (and empty spaces) representing elements of his personality, and a huge, garish tapestry, entitled ‘Comfort Blanket’, in the rough design of a banknote and crammed with irreverent references to British culture. Moaning, the NHS, feet and inches, and the Mini all feature prominently, as does “bitter irony”. This juxtaposition of satire and an absurd, comic brashness continues through the individual portraits which follow.

Perry is justly famous as a potter: the vases on display are remarkable, skilfully presenting their subjects in a medium rarely used for portraits. The designs range from the barbed – a reassembled vase covered in pictures of Chris Huhne representing the unbreakable white middle-class ‘Default Man’, the cracks painted over with gold – to the poignant, such as a demon, representing Alzheimer’s disease, slicing up past memories with scissors. I’m not entirely convinced that the almost lurid vividness with which Perry decorates his pots transferred as well to the other materials (silk, tapestry, print), but each was striking in its presentation of the jagged elements of modern identity.

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The placing of the artworks is pointed, too. The ‘Chris Huhne Vase’ sits in the centre of the gallery of Victorian statesmen, under the gazes of Gladstone and Disraeli; the little bronze statue, one of the finest of the fourteen pieces, ‘I am a Man’, of a young transgender boy, placed between portraits of Kitchener and BadenPowell, as well as Frederick Burnaby, reputedly “the strongest man in the British Army”. This can, I believe, misfire a little, such as in the case of the ‘Modern Family’ vase, which depicts a white gay couple with their adopted mixed-race son. This work becomes the focus of attention for many visitors to the 1900-69 gallery, while in the very same gallery, the only portrait of a gay couple (couples being unusual enough in the Gallery) on permanent display, that of Britten and Pears, is almost totally ignored. In creating a dialogue between his new piece and those which are already there, Perry succeeds in altering the character of the existing displays, but perhaps not every portrait is in need of subverting.

The placements take the viewer away from the psychological, identity-based, aim of Perry’s question: it can also be asked in its usual, literal sense, and flipped from his displays to the position in which they are displayed. The question ‘Who are you?’ springs to mind when you look at the portraits in Perry’s exhibition, for, unlike the rest of the Gallery, they are (mostly) of not-famous people, yet the question also pops up when looking at some of the permanent exhibits. Who is this man with extremely impressive mutton-chop whiskers? George Whyte-Melville, according to the card. Behind ‘Who are you?’, though, lies a second question, less easily answered by a helpful label – ‘Why are you here?’

Perry’s additions are each carefully explained and rationalised – if there is a problem with them as works of art, it stems from this fact, for each of the objects on display already has a ‘correct’ interpretation, and so can, perhaps, be seen, like the William Scrots portrait of Edward VI on the floor above, from the prepared angle only.

At the same time, paradoxically, this potential flaw in the art works exposes the flaw in the gallery around it: why are these portraits not justified as well? The question is relevant because the portraits are not presented as works of art, but as representations of their subject; they are hung there, for the most part, because of who is in the painting, not who painted it, or how well it is painted. Perry’s exhibition challenges this vision of the Gallery. In presenting us with an unconventional set of portraits, this exhibition asks us to take an unconventional look at the ‘normal’ portraits that make up the rest of the room.

Perry, then, succeeds in his aim of presenting a portrait of modern Britain, but also provokes a response beyond that brief. Either intentionally or not, he makes the viewer look beyond the exhibit, and at the gallery in which it is located. Hopefully this will make people question not just who they are seeing in the portraits, but why they are being presented with the portraits with which they are being presented and, in the process, consider what it is that they go to the National Portrait Gallery to see.