Wednesday 9th July 2025
Blog Page 1375

Is UK employment really on the road to recovery?

0

Earlier this week, the Office for National Statistics published the latest employment statistics; with 30.39 million in work, a five-year high, and an increase in average wages exceeding inflation for the first time since 2010, they have been triumphantly flaunted by the Coalition as definitive proof of the success of their economic policies. However, there are a number of reasons why it might be a little too soon to join the employment minister Esther McVey in celebrating the UK economy getting ”back on the path to prosperity”.

The first major revelation of the report which undermines the dominant narrative of growth and recovery is that the number of self-employed people in the UK has steadily risen to reach 4.5 million, around 15% of the total workforce, the highest proportion since records began in 1992. The government are keen to suggest that the majority of these are creative, self-made entrepreneurs; however, a recent report from the Resolution Foundation think tank recently found that ‘of those who became self-employed in the last five years, more than one in four (27 per cent) gave lack of work alternatives as the reason…The new face of self-employment is more likely to be female and looking for an alternative compared with their more established counterparts’. 

The report clearly demonstrates that, while the majority enjoy the benefits self-employment, there is a considerable minority who have been forced into doing low-paid, casual work without the security of being an employee. There is no comprehensive survey of the wages of the self-employed available; significantly, this has allowed the government to discount 15% of the total workforce in calculating that wages have outstripped inflation. It is difficult to speculate about the extent of the impact the inclusion of these wages would have, but, with The Guardian reporting last week that the average annual wage for self-employed women is just £10,000, the difference could potentially be considerable.

The report also reveals that another significant boost to the overall 30 million figure is part-time employment, which has increased to reach 8 million. As with self-employed statistics, while there is a majority of people for whom part-time or temporary work is an empowered choice, we can again discern the growing trend of a considerable minority who were left with no other option: 36% of temporary staff, and 17% of part-time staff stated that they were undertaking such employment because they ‘could not find a permanent job’. The increase of part-time employment is therefore another inconvenient truth which disrupts the sweeping assumption that all part-time or self-employed work is equally valid evidence for the resilience of the labour market. 

The Bank of England’s continued refusal to raise interest rates despite unemployment falling beneath 7% demonstrates that other economists are less jubilant. Howard Archer, chief UK and European economist at IHS Global Insight, told the BBC that “The Bank of England will likely regard the fact that there are 1.421 million people who are working part-time because they cannot find a full-time job as evidence that there is still substantial slack in the labour market.”

In McVey and the Chancellor George Osborne’s self-congratulatory comments to the media, the buzzword was security: ‘greater economic security’ or ‘the security of a regular wage’. While the ONS report records the dramatic effect that irregular part-time and self-employed roles have on employment figures, a major trend which has not been accounted for by the study is the increasing prevalence of zero-hours contracts, which have been subject to widespread criticism for the culture of insecurity they enforce upon staff.

Zero-hours contracts give an unprecedented amount of power to the employer: employees must be ready to work whenever they are asked, for as many or as few hours as required. The legal status of those on zero-hours contracts is ambiguous: whether they are technically ‘‘employees’ or ‘workers’ remains undetermined. This means that currently those on such contracts are often not protected from unfair dismissal, and maternity or redundancy rights. The employer is similarly not obliged to provide sick pay or holiday leave; the only obligation is to pay the national minimum wage.

The number of people currently on zero-hours is uncertain: the government’s initial forecast of 250,000 people was proven to be wildly underestimated. The most recent ONS statistics cite 580,000; the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development estimates one million, and Unite the Union up to five million. After increasing pressure from unions and the press, the government has launched an investigation which received over 36,000 responses.

The results of this report, which closed over a month ago, are yet to be published, a conveniently delayed blockage of information which would call into question the ‘greater economic security’ that the UK is apparently enjoying. Whatever its findings, it is clear from comments made by Vince Cable that there is no question of a serious prohibition of zero-hours’ work: “We do not believe that zero-hours contracts are bad in themselves… they have a place in today’s labour market and are not proposing to ban them outright”.

Cable has also defended the common of use ‘exclusivity clauses’ in the contracts, which further restrict the rights of employees by ensuring they are only able to work for one company regardless of how insufficient the hours offered may be, citing the need for certain companies to protect sensitive information. However, given that the majority of zero-hours contracts are unskilled work; this would be applicable only in a very specific and limited number of cases.

The government is currently too busy celebrating the ‘five-year-high’ in employment to really concern themselves with the realities of the job market, harnessing superficially impressive statistics for their own party-political ends as next year’s general election looms ever closer. The complacent assumption that a job is a job is a negation of  the continued absence of long-term, secure employment; if, as McVey claims, ‘the rise in employment is being fuelled by businesses and entrepreneurs… and private sector jobs across the country’ it is also being fuelled by part-time, low-paid, casual roles filled by workers with no alternative. 

Champions League Semi-Finals Preview

0

With the title looking an increasingly unlikely prize for José Mourinho’s Chelsea following a shock home defeat to Sunderland, next week brings an opportunity for redemption in the form of the Champions League semi-finals. Following a season in which, for the first time since 1996, no English team reached the last eight – with Chelsea themselves failing even to escape the group stage – this year, the men from west London are the sole English representatives at this late stage. They are set to face Spanish league-leaders Atlético Madrid, whilst the other semi-final sees Real Madrid take on Bayern Munich.

Chelsea fans may have been relieved to escape Real Madrid and Bayern Munich, but clichéd though it may sound, there truly are no easy games at this level. Simeone’s Atlético are a force to be reckoned with. If their current domination of La Liga were not enough to instil fear into blue hearts, their dismissal of Barcelona in the quarter-finals was surely a message of intent. Moreover, despite suffering an injury in scoring his team’s second against Getafe, star striker Diego Costa – a man possibly bound for Stamford Bridge this summer – will be available to terrorise Chelsea’s defence. Chelsea have not been so fortunate on the injury front. Whilst their squad is largely free from injury, Eden Hazard, arguably their best performer this season, remains a doubt after an injury sustained in Chelsea’s previous Champions League tie against PSG.

If nothing else, however, Mourinho’s side have experience on their side. Atlético, currently five points clear in La Liga, have thus far proved themselves capable of dealing with pressure, but this is their first European Cup semi-final in forty years; Chelsea, in contrast, have been in six semi-finals in the last decade, and won the trophy in unlikely circumstances under Roberto di Matteo in 2012. Add to this the ‘Mourinho factor’ – the influence of a manager who is one of only four in history to have won the Champions League with two different teams (Porto, 2004 and Inter Milan, 2010) – and, with little to separate the two teams on paper, Chelsea begin to look like marginal favourites. That is, assuming the so-called ‘Happy One’ is able to thwart the well-known and indisputable global conspiracy against him.

Whilst the Atlético-Chelsea tie certainly makes for an intriguing match-up, it is Real Madrid’s clash with Bayern Munich that will have most neutrals glued to their television screens on Wednesday night, or, more likely, avidly refreshing Cherwell Sport’s Twitter account. This is a true clash of titans. Whilst Bayern are still clear favourites for the competition as a whole, it seems likely that if anyone can stop them, it is ‘Los Blancos’. Ancelotti’s men, fresh from a dramatic 2-1 victory over Barcelona in the Copa del Rey final, seem to have been unfairly overlooked by the bookies, and will be determined to disrupt the plans of old enemy Pep Guardiola. Bayern, despite having wrapped up the Bundesliga weeks ago, have hardly been infallible; in recent weeks they have been beaten by Borussia Dortmund and Augsburg. Ancelotti will, moreover, take comfort in the surprising difficulties the Bavarian outfit faced in their struggle against English champions Manchester United in the previous round. Any defence that has serious trouble coping with the pace of Danny Welbeck must be quaking in its boots at the prospect of Cristiano Ronaldo and Gareth Bale.

The footballing world, then, waits with baited breath for a tight, tactical tie on Tuesday night, and a clash of two of Europe’s greatest clubs on Wednesday evening. Rest assured, though, whoever comes out on top, John Terry will be there in Lisbon in full kit to lift the trophy.

Review: Calvary

0

★★★★★
Five Stars

Having seen and loved director John McDonagh’s previous film The Guard, about a morally questionable member of the Irish Garda, I came to Calvary expecting something in the same vein, but with a priest. To be fair, from what I could gather from the trailer and critics, it had all the same component parts: Brendan Gleeson, set in Ireland and a plethora of reviews sporting the phrase ‘dark comedy’ as their pull quotes. Let the good times roll, I thought, as St Augustine’s famous quote, ‘Do not despair; one of the thieves was saved. Do not presume; one of the thieves was damned’ appeared on the screen. However, despite having all the same component parts, Calvary is an entirely different, yet nonetheless compelling, beast.

Whilst it’s not untrue that Calvary has darkly humorous elements, if it is to be called a dark comedy it must be recognised that this humour is of a pitch-black variety, the comical moments wrapped in a barbed wire mesh of uncomfortable questions about faith, integrity and the state of the Church in Ireland after the sexual abuse scandals.

Brendan Gleeson plays Father James, a “good priest”, who is visited at confession by an unseen man who tells him he was serially and violently abused as a child by a member of the clergy, and that in revenge, he will kill Father James the following Sunday, so that he has time to ‘get his house in order’. Cue a ‘who will do it’ thriller? Not as such. Rather, Father James goes about his priestly business, and we meet the members of this bleak corner of County Sligo, all of whom taunt, insult or disparage him in one way or another, and each equally capable of being the potential killer. And yet they all turn up to Church, their disingenuous faith pointing towards the incongruous role of the Church in a community that would appear to despise it, but nonetheless goes through the motions of respecting it.    

The richness of these characters owes a lot to its stellar cast; Calvary features pretty much all the Irish big names, many of whom are better known for their work in comedies, such as Dylan Moran and Chris O’Dowd. However, their existence in the film as deeply troubled characters yet again wrong-foots an audience expecting Bernard Black or Roy from the IT Crowd.

Dylan Moran, who plays spiritually-void banker Michael Fitzgerald, features in a particularly memorable scene involving Holbein’s The Ambassadors, famous for its anamorphic skull. Indeed, death permeates throughout this film, both quite literally in the plot line of ‘will Father James die and who will do it?’ and on a more metaphorical level concerning the characters’ relationships with the Church and the banks, two of the disgraced pillars of modern-day Ireland. Gleeson himself does a spectacular job of embodying the calm, affable and thick-skinned priest whilst at the same time incorporating a roguish violent streak. A very complex character, Father James provokes more questions than he answers.

However, none of this is to say that the film’s darkness is overwhelming. McDonagh’s script still bristles with his characteristic razor-sharp and at times acerbic dialogue, which if not working to lighten the heavy themes being dealt with, provides relief from the darker moments. A reviewer from the Catholic Herald said that ‘[s]ome might find all of this too edgy, but others will laugh uproariously (I did)’, but I feel the Catholic Herald may have missed the point somewhat. There is nothing black and white about Calvary, humour and morality included, and therefore the laugh out loud moments are few and far between. Yet what it offers is a complex presentation of a country still reeling from the ruin of two of its most influential institutions in an elegant and considered manner, allowing for some wry smiles along the way. 

Cherwell’s Cultural Easter Egg

0

Christianity vs. Paganism

The Cybele cult is the original Spring festival, brought to Rome in 204 BC straight to the site which is now Vatican hill. Cybele’s lover Attis is a striking Jesus parallel – born of a virgin and re-born anually. Today, almost all of the traditions we associate with Easter – from eggs to bunnies – are a mix of the Pagan traditions to welcome in the Spring, and the Christian resurrection story. In another Pagan twist, the date of Easter is different every year – determined by the phases of the moon. The Bible states that this is because Jesus’ death and resurrection happened at the same time as the Jewish Passover, which was on the first full moon following the equinox. 

Ä’ostre

The Modern English name ‘Easter’ comes from the Old English ‘Ä’ostre’ or ‘Ä’astre’, who was a Germanic Pagan Goddess. The name derives from proto-Germanic ‘austrōn’ meaning ‘dawn’, fitting with Easter and Spring imagery of new beginnings. There has also been speculaton that Ä’ostre was a pre-christian fertility Goddess because of the Easter motifs of eggs and new birth, and also that her symbol was a rabbit or hare – possibly giving us the Easter Bunny. However, there is some debate as to whether or not she was made up by The Venerable Bede, who wrote about in his 725 text The Reckoning of Time (De temporum ratione) that: ‘Eosturmonath (‘Easter month’)… was once called after a goddess of theirs named Ä’ostre’.

Semana Santa de Sevilla

The week before Easter is known in Christianity as ‘Holy Week’, and includes Friday of Passion, Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, Good Friday and Holy Saturday. A good place to experience the full ritual involved in the celebration of Holy Weeks is Seville in the South of Spain, where the residents celebrate with the precession of pasos – floats of wooden sculptures of scenes of the events of the Passion, or images of the Virgin Mary, accompanied by brass bands. During Holy Week the city is crowded with both residents and visitors drawn by the spectacle. The origins of Semana Santa de Sevilla are believed to date back to the Late Middle Ages.

Witches and Bonfires

As in many countries, Easter traditions in Finland mix religious motifs with customs welcoming the arrival of Spring. In a strange Halloween crossover, Finnish children traditionally go begging in the streets with sooty faces and scarves around their heads, carrying broomsticks, coffee pots and bunches of willow twigs. This mixes the Russian Orthodox tradition of birch leaves representing the palms laid down when Jesus entered Jerusalem on Palm Sunday with the willow being the first tree to bloom in the spring. In some parts of Western Finland, people burn bonfires on Easter Sunday – an old Nordic tradition stemming from the belief that flames ward off witches, who fly around on brooms between good Friday and Easter Sunday.

Påskekrim

In Norway, Easter (‘Påske’, derived from the Hebrew word for ‘Passover’) is a colourful festival celebrating the arrival of Spring after the long darkness of winter. Bizarrely, aside from the traditional celebrations, Easter in Norway is marked by the reading of crime and detective novels. Each year, ‘Påskekrim’ or ‘Easter Thrillers’ appear in bookshops and on the television or radio – a tradition believed to have started in 1923 with the publishing of advertisements for the new crime novel of Nordahl Grieg and Nils Lie.

French Omelette

If you are near Southern French town of Haux in Northern France on Easter Monday, take a spoon with you. Each year, a giant omelette is served in the town’s main square. It uses more than 4,500 eggs and feeds up to 1,000 people. The story goes that when Napoleon and his army were travelling through the South of France, they stopped in the small town and ate omelettes. Napoleon liked his so much that he ordered the townspeople to gather their eggs and make a giant omelette for his army the next day.

 

Alagna: An undiscovered off-piste paradise

0

If you try to think of the name of a ski resort, many will spring immediately to mind, even if you do not ski: Val D’Isere, Courchevel, Chamonix, St Moritz. These are fabulous ski resorts full of wide-open pistes, excellent views, expensive food, and a town tailor-made to the requirements of its winter custom. However, visit these resorts in summer, and they are lifeless; ghost towns and empty shells.

Alagna could not be further from this. You will have almost certainly never have heard of this tiny village in a small valley in Valsesia in Northern Italy. It remains, for the most part, a local secret, populated in high season mostly by Milanese people trying to escape the city (it is only about an hour and a half drive from Milan Malpensa Airport). The village itself is beautiful, full of buildings that could very well have been built hundreds of years ago. There are few restaurants and bars, but the ones that exist are wonderful. The ‘Guide’s Bar’ is full at the end of each day right up to the last weeks of the season. The pizzeria ‘Dir und Don’ offers pizzas to rival those of Naples, whilst the food and service in the restaurant ‘Union’ is the best you will find in Italy. Their homemade pasta is perfectly prepared and delicately flavoured, whilst their wine list is extensive, excellent and not at all overpriced.

However, it is the skiing that truly marks Alagna above the rest. Two relatively short lifts take you up into a very large ski area accessed by several resorts. There are plenty of wide, expansive pistes, although not many for beginners. Having said that, it is the Off-Piste which is unlike any other. A short ride in a helicopter can take you to 4200m on the Monte Rosa. For this, you can ski down a glacier for two hours into Zermatt, dodging crevasses and lumps of ice. At the top there was even powder worthy of February in early April, and the Matterhorn was never out of sight. For those who consider heliskiing a step too far, there are plenty of off-piste runs accessible from the lifts, but it is recommended you have a guide, and it is required that you have suitable avalanche equipment.

For skiers wishing to be challenged and amazed by a variety of off-piste routes, Alagna is ideal for you. The comparison to major ski resorts is remarkable, and the entire experience is entirely different. Even if the aprés-ski is off the scale! the combination of skiing and Italian food is unmissable – skiing for 8 hours a day? That definitely requires all four courses.

Tutoring: The lifestyle banking affords without the grind

0

Upon graduating, I was routinely baffled and appalled by the begrudging acceptance with which most of my friends drifted into corporate graduate scheme employment. Peers at Oxford, who reveled in unconventionality and devoted themselves to full-time creativity, within a few months were sat at a steel desk, in a glass pillar, grinding through the 14 hour day. Goodbye Pinter, hello PowerPoints and Progress reports.

With unemployment rife and the job market fierce, the temptation of a September start, coupled with a comfortable salary and discounted gym membership, is greater than ever. Tom Palmer, an ex-banker, admitted, “I was totally lured by the money and oversold security, but depression, permanent stress and loneliness hit me far faster than I’d ever anticipated…it’s scary how quickly you can lose yourself. It’s absolutely true that you’re simply a cog in a machine. The whole experience was completely soul-crushing.”

For those prudent enough to heed the warning signs and brave enough to eschew the corporate shackles, there is, of course, another way: tutoring. As many Oxford graduates know, tutoring is, proving to be a most liberating and attractive alternative. The Oxbridge brand is useful not just for that carefully crafted consultancy application, but also for setting yourself up as a professional tutor. Many graduates are now building up a substantial client base to pay their way through big city living. Earnings varies from £30-200 an hour – or, if you’re a super tutor, even higher than that. The hours are yours to choose, the demand extremely high (roughly eighty percent of London’s schoolchildren receive some kind of extra-curricular support) and the work is both gratifying and varied. Other graduates opt for the even more lucrative residential roles abroad, where tutors spend weeks or indeed months in glamorous places – from Monaco, to Saint Tropez, Hong Kong, Portofino and the Bahamas. And then there are the ski passes, top-notch accommodation and a personal driver all thrown in for good measure.

Tutoring requires organization, creativity and empathy for the different types of learners with which one will engage. An abundance of charm, personality and motivation married with intellectual rigor certainly goes a long way and making lessons relatable and fun must not be overlooked. One such tutor, John White, takes his teaching game to a whole new level, “You have to be inventive and resourceful when teaching. I actually used to Beat Box the periodic table so my tutee would learn it!”

That said, potential tutors should apply the old adage ‘too good to be true’ to any advertised job that appears like manna from heaven on their Internet browser. The tutoring industry is big money and, as such, there is a proliferation of agencies, many of whom are looking for a slice of the action. Some of course receive bigger slices of the pie than others and it can be a dog eat dog world when it comes fighting for the golden client.

Indeed some agencies are so quick to make deals with clients that they put wholly unrealistic expectancy upon the tutors and promise unfeasible progress to the clients, yet wash their hands of any academic responsibility when it doesn’t work out. An undercover Cherwell investigation revealed that one agency based in Russia, London, and Oxford uses its interns in its Russian offices, paid £2.40 per hour and charges them out to tutor at 100 dollars an hour. Another “top” Battersea-based agency charges clients around £75 per hour, paying the tutors only 40% of this amount, taking an eye-watering commission. And a graduate I met in London, accepted a residential role sold to him as being based in central Moscow when in fact he was expected to live two hours away in nothing short of a Soviet built council housing block. “It certainly taught me a valuable life lesson,” he rued, “not all agencies put the welfare of their tutors at the top of their priority list.”

There are, however, a smattering of leading agencies at the top because they have developed genuinely close relationships with families, deliver excellent service, and offer support and advice for their tutors. Believe it or not this is a rare breed in within an industry where many of the MDs have had little experience as tutors themselves and are startlingly blinkered when it comes to seeing the wider value of education beyond their company’s VAT returns. One such agency that’s been dubbed “London’s best kept tutoring secret” and is gaining increasing recognition, is Sophie Green Associates, which started off organically with a group of very loyal clients and is now based in London and Switzerland, Sophie’s approach is refreshing: She herself tutored for over ten years and has a committed and dynamic outlook on tutoring and the welfare of her tutors: “I look for unique tutors with a great personality and real passion for education.”

Having had to navigate through the waters of uncaring agencies mingled with those with integrity and skill, unofficially, my advice would be this: pick your agency very carefully, it will make all the difference. 

Beauty Corner: Textured Products

0

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG%%9412%%[/mm-hide-text] 

The other day I undertook the beauty equivalent of a wardrobe clean-out. You know what I mean – where you think hang on a second, what do I actually use here? (So you own five mascaras, but it’s always that trusty Maybelline one you reach for). Anyway, one of the first things I came across was some old nail polish. It was not empty and definitely had some ‘life’ left in it, so to speak, but I threw it out anyway. Why? Because ‘normal’ nail polish has become too, well, normal. Now, it is all about the textured nail polish.

Yep the trend for textured nails which recently hit the beauty scene looks set to continue. Leather polishes, velvet polishes, sequin polishes, you name it they’re all out there and all guaranteed to create a multi-dimensional 3D impact. (The rainbow caviar polishes have got to be my favourite. Those tiny balls of colour are literally like skittles!)

But this idea of texture in beauty doesn’t stop there. There’s also the caviar lips trend (best left for professionals it should be said). Then we have false-eyelashes, with weirder and wackier styles being created by the minute. Have a search on the net and you will be shocked at what is possible. Flower petal eyelashes? Hell yes. Peacock feather ones? Of course.

Yet as with any craze when does it go a step too far? Where do we stop when it comes to textured beauty products? Could you really walk into a Tesco Express wearing spider web lashes, velvet nails, caviar lips and still be taken seriously? The texture craze is one of those cases where if you get it right, you get it right, but when you get it wrong you, get it oh so wrong. ‘Fancy dress is it?’ asked the Tesco checkout lady. 

 

Image: stylevanity.com

Review: Noah

0

★★☆☆☆

Two Stars

Having read decidedly mixed reviews of Darren Aronofsky’s new big-budget film Noah, I really wasn’t sure what to expect, other than perhaps Russell Crowe proving he can still take on a macho gladiator-esque lead after his, shall we say, interesting appearance in Les Mis last year. In spite of its varied reception, the phrase ‘biblical epic’ certainly stands out as a popular label for this $125 million project which has been a whopping 14 years in development. On emerging from the theatre I think I understand why. There really isn’t another way to accurately describe this 2 ¼ hour-long film – it’s just that: epic, and, to be honest, not a lot else.

Though the visual effects used to create the rain, crashing seas and the swarms of animals filling the ark (which is somewhat disconcertingly shaped like a big shipping container – not the best design for buoyancy) are all well and good, and definitely worth paying the extra few pounds to see on the big screen, there isn’t anything new or original about these effects.

Moreover, they are definitely undermined early on by the recurring feature of the ‘Watchers’; huge many-limbed monsters made out of rock that drag themselves around the place for no clear reason. While these apparently have some basis in the mention of fallen angels in the Jewish Book of Enoch, I severely doubt there is anything to suggest that they resemble the bizarre, knobbly deep-voiced creatures that feature heavily in this film. They could have been borrowed from an episode of Doctor Who or a cheap video game seemingly only to provide a solution to the practical problem of how Noah and his family were to construct such an enormous vessel on their own.

I realise that to point out here that if we’re to expect logistical explanations for every aspect of the story, it isn’t long before the question of inbreeding arises and I’m not sure it’s one the film’s creators or anyone could comfortably answer. Nonetheless, the ‘Watchers’ certainly added an unexpected element of humour to this epic catastrophe movie, albeit an unintentional one.

Moving on from the computerised monsters to the real people in the film, Russell Crowe’s Noah is compellingly dark and tortured, but let down by a stilted and unnatural sounding script, in which a few too many short and monosyllabic phrases are evidently aimed primarily at instilling that aforementioned epic quality. Jennifer Connelly gives a stand-out performance as Naameh, Noah’s wife, struggling to protect her loved ones from the ruthless side of his character, while Emma Watson, Douglas Booth and Logan Lerman all give respectable but unremarkable performances in their roles as Noah’s children.

Ultimately, Noah tries to give a new spin to the classic biblical tale, examining the psychology of the eponymous title character and raising questions about the conflict between justice and duty. Ray Winstone is a memorable and convincing Tubal-Cain, Noah’s nemesis and the representative of a human race that has become enslaved to coarse selfish instinct. At the same time, his character voices the irrepressible questions and doubts one feels when watching Noah shut the doors of the Ark to the outside world. These questions give the film some substance and highlight the blurred distinctions between the good and bad inherent in everyone.

At its heart, it is a film about the relationships within a family and how far each is willing to make sacrifices not only for a higher cause but also for each other. It is a shame these relationships weren’t given more room to develop during the film’s rather slow start as they are more engaging than the ostentatious special effects that dominate – not quite as epic though, I’ll admit.

Review: Italian Fashion at the V&A

0

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG%%9410%%[/mm-hide-text]

Fashion is intertwined with and inseparable from the culture and the history of Italy. It mirrors the most turbulent times the country faced. But fashion also helped Italy to move past its difficulties, as it went on an exciting, innovative journey. The unique extravagance of Italian fashion drew the rest of the world in. Through “The Glamour of Italian Fashion” exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, you can watch the evolution of it from fascism until now and begin to comprehend its impact on the world.

The exhibition starts by recounting how the fascist government attempted to construct a sense of nationhood. The National Fashion Board regulated production and produced the “Tortonese”, displayed in an uninspiring blue at the start of the exhibition. This ladies’ suit consisted of a broad shouldered jacket and a pleated skirt. The waist is barely cinched and is a far cry from drama of Dolce and Gabbana alta moda couture. So, how did Italy make this transition?

Post-war, Italy was in disarray. Cities were thin and millions worked as farm laborers. Under the US Marshall Plan, factories were retooled and Italian fashion began to feed the hunger for glamour.

Giovanni Battista Giorgini is the man who truly represents the return to luxury.  On the 12th of February 1951, in Sala Bianca, he showcased the “First Italian High Fashion Show”. From that February onwards, Giovanni drew on the Italian renaissance and threw events lasting several days, entertaining international buyers with elaborate dinners and balls. Though later designers went on to compete with Giovanni, he pioneered the identity of Italian fashion.

There is a sharp contrast between the dresses displayed at the exhibition, those Giovanni showcased are displayed shortly after we see the Tortonese. It is a reflection of how fashion helped to transform Italy. The elegant tailoring, intricate embroidery and cascading waves of chiffon and lace is a world away from the stiff and square fascist suit. It set the tone of how, for the next 60 years, Italian designers would continue to make waves in fashion industry. It sets the backdrop for old Hollywood, well-dressed Presidents and decorated film star royalty.

The centrepiece of the exhibition has to be Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari “Emerald Suite”, the famous jewelry set given to her by Richard Burton.  It truly represents both the extravagance and the eminence of Italian fashion and resonates with you throughout the rest of the exhibition.

A real treat comes towards the end of the visit; a room full of more modern Italian haute couture! Whilst the silhouettes have changed and hem lines have become a bit more daring, the attention to detail remains the same. Each piece still tells its own fascinating story. But for how long can Italian designers continue to indulge their creativity with luxury? Since the political scandal in 2000, economic tensions and immigration issues have threatened stability. Textile production and its related industries are thinning and Italy’s premium fashion houses are continuously foreign owned. Andrea Missoni calls for greater government support so the fashion industry can continue to flourish, and benefit the country the way it did post World War II.

You will take away from this exhibition an appreciation for the sheer power of Italian taste. Plus, it gives you an excuse to look at really pretty dresses and pretend to be cultured!

The Glamour of Italian Fashion Exhibition spans the stylish country’s history from 1945 through to 2014.

The exhibition is open until 27th July 2014 and costs just £9.20 for students.
Great for: Anyone who loves window shopping!

The Problem with Paxman

0

There are various reasons for my dislike of Jeremy Paxman: the way he furrows his brow with self-importance; his pompous interjections; his tendency to mistake his own opinions for news. He is paid to hold public figures to account, however, and even if you object to him as a person, he has historically been very good at it.

His reputation as the British public’s bulldog has been built up over the past thirty years from his stronghold as presenter and part-time chief correspondent of BBC analysis programme Newsnight. From his 1997 interview with Michael Howard, where he asked the same question – “Did you threaten to overrule him?” – of the Conservative Home Secretary 14 separate times, to his scathing reception of EDL leader Tommy Robinson, Paxman is known for refusing to temper his visible dislike for individuals or disguise his disregard for authority.

But his unrelenting style of questioning, can only be said to be in the public interest if he is equally exacting towards all of his interviewees. In the past few weeks various criticisms of Paxman’s persona have emerged. The most strongly worded was printed by the Mail on Sunday, in an article which railed against Paxman’s ‘soft’ treatment of ‘Leftie’ Methodist preacher Paul Flowers, disgraced ex-chief of the Co-operative Bank. Flowers’ fall from grace was biblical: having been selected to direct the UK’s self-professed ‘ethical bank’, the minister made a series of tactical errors that would prove ruinous for the company. Around the same time, Flowers was filmed counting out twenties for cocaine in a drug dealer’s car and is alleged to have used rent boys.

His ineptitude is highlighted by a clip of Flowers before the Treasury Select committee, where he is asked the value of the Co-op Bank’s assets. Flowers’ guess is £44 billion out. “Yes, forgive me.” he replies pompously. It should be an easy one for bulldog Paxman, but Flowers is allowed to get away with it: ‘forgive me’ becomes the interview’s catchphrase, used as a conversational crutch to buy time.

‘Forgive me’ takes on a deeper meaning as Flowers paints the entire banking world as rife with corruption, underplaying his own culpability. When Paxman asks whether Flowers would compare himself to Lucifer, since he had so far to fall, Flowers replies, “And where do you find Lucifer in the Bible, Mr Paxman?” This display of wit and learning makes Paxman laugh, rather than doing his appointed job of demanding to know how a public figure could be guilty of such incompetence.

At one point, when Paxman seems about to launch into a trademark grilling, Flowers cites stress and a lack of training as reasons for his mistakes. He got the value of his bank’s assets wrong, he says, because he was “put off, a tad, by the aggression of some of the members of the committee.” This seems to subdue Paxman, who does not press Flowers on the gaping disparity between the teachings of his sermons and the reality of his actions and rather than being the aggressor fighting for the public interests he appears an apologist for financial fuck-ups.

The motivation The Mail’s attack on the interview is obvious: in the interview, Flowers called the Mail on Sunday ‘pseudo-fascist’ and said it was capable of making Putin seem like a ‘bleeding-heart liberal’. The Mail seeks to invalidate these criticisms by painting Paxman as the big bad leftie who softens the minute his adversary – also sympathetic to the Left – cries addiction (already a left-right battleground – see Peter Hitchens versus Russell Brand for more).  

As a rule, Paxman is exacting and often derisive with his interviewees. When Paxman makes exceptions to this rule, his motivations for doing so should be examined. The Mail alleges he is soft on the left-leaning. Alternatively, Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland has described how Paxman’s interview style becomes less forensic when he is presented with a public figure who was not elected by popular vote. He grills MPs with visible delight but let’s bankers and CEOs off more lightly.  

The Flowers interview reinforces both of these hypotheses, as does his 2010 interview with Christopher Hitchens. Many of the questions asked by Paxman in the interview are designed to flatter rather than probe: “You’re a contrarian – a polemicist. Do you have any sense of why you are like that?” Ironically and disappointing, for an interview between the two greatest British “polemicists” of the 20th century the interview itself lacks all polemic! Paxman doesn’t ask Hitchens about his patronising, misogynist views (in case you’re interested, Hitchens believes women aren’t funny, evolution having slowly suffocated the fairer sex of its capacity for wit. In Hitchens’ words, “For men, it is a tragedy that the two things they prize the most—women and humor—should be so antithetical”). He asks one softball question on his support for the invasion of Iraq, but never attempts to push him. The interview was one of the last given by Hitchens and is sadly a snapshot of two of the twentieth century’s journalistic heavyweights, united in self-congratulation.

Paxman is not a compassionate interviewer by nature. When he lets up, he may do so because of various reasons: perhaps it is due to his political persuasion, or because his interviewee has not been publicly elected, or because he sees something of himself in his interlocutor, or because he genuinely finds a comment funny, or a combination of all four. If Paxman were always ‘soft’ on left-leaning cultural figures, left-wing, un-elected Russell Brand would have had a far easier ride when he spoke about voter abstention in 2013. The ‘un-elected, left-wing’ rule holds true for Hitchens and Flowers, but not for Brand. Paxman’s rare indulgent gazes seem to be reserved for the handful of individuals whom he considers his equals; Paxman the bulldog rolls over when presented with public figures on the way out, highly-educated and established individuals whom he perceives as possessing a similar level of stature to himself. But whatever his reason, his interviews with Hitchens and Flowers render him less plausible as a disinterested arbiter of public discourse.

His strong media presence off-screen also contributes to this. His recent television series on World War One, for instance, gained him entry into the public bun fight of the moment over how best to commemorate the war’s centenary. His main adversary on the issue was Michael Gove, current Secretary for Education and prominent opponent of the view (propagated in his opinion, by ‘Blackadder and left-wing academia’) that leadership from 1914-18 was anything other than courageous or the war anything other than just. Paxman’s response to such disagreement was to brand Gove a “charlatan” guilty of trying to score “cheap political points”. Boris Johnson rushed to Gove’s defence in a Telegraph article, while subsequent talks and press statements allowed Paxman to enter into discussion on an issue which could be the basis for policy-making in future.

He is entitled to a public life separate from his career within the BBC – many other pundits have trodden the same path. However, that future appearances from Gove and Johnson on Newsnight could be skewed by their past disagreements with Paxman, just as Paxman’s interactions with George Galloway on the programme in 2005 transgressed into the personal and the downright unprofessional. A heated interview with Galloway was followed up by a video of Paxman which was broadcast into the Big Brother house, where Galloway had been filmed drinking milk out of a bowl on the floor wearing a leotard. Paxman’s video requested a “rematch, with or without the leotard”. Paxman’s public life outside the BBC is defensible only as far as it does not give him a personal agenda when interviewing on Newnight: the discussion of ‘rematches’ suggested Paxman was more concerned with his personal relationship with Galloway than the discussion of current events which sets a worrying precedent for interactions with Gove.

Paxman’s courting of celebrity and controversy coincides with a singularly unrepresentative and badly-chaired discussion on Muslim identity and leadership in Britain, which took place in March this year. The conclusion loudly extolled by Mehdi Hasan, Maajid Nawaz and Mo Ansar (with fairly sparse intervention from Paxman), was that no single voice could speak for all Muslims; this plurality needed to be represented as far as possible in public discourse. Pertinently, Myriam Francois-Cerrah, a prominent writer and journalist, was dropped from the discussion in favour of Ansar, leaving no female Muslim voice on the panel.  During the interview Hasan asked why there were no females on the panel, as that would broaden the range of viewpoints represented; Paxman gave no response, and Hasan was shouted over – again – by Nawaz.

Paxman does not produce Newsnight and does not dictate who appears on panels. However, he has been frequently critical of those who do produce the show. One example is when financial reports were replaced by weather reports as the parting shot from Newsnight in 2005, Paxman mocked them, supplementing the forecasts with irreverent asides. His quips were funny but set a precedent for picking fights with decisions made by the show’s producers in a personal capacity. Why, then, did he remain silent about his show’s failure to actually enact the breadth of perspectives each of its other participants agreed was so essential? Why speak up against weather reports but not in favour of women’s representation?

It is the intermittency of these moments that jars. In picking some fights, but not every fight, his inconsistency leaves room to call bias. His desire to reinforce his own personality and aggressively macho public image, moreover, can divert attention from the matter at hand. The debate on Islam was instrumental in exposing what happens when ego is privileged over representative debate: the discussion descended into ad hominem attacks and the dredging up of previous Twitter exchanges. Paxman has the same problem. In allowing his ego to leak over into other public spheres and a handful of his interviews, he falls prey to his own vanity and in doing so, he fails the public.