Thursday, April 24, 2025
Blog Page 1634

Style on the Silver Screen

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A good film leaves us with an impossible itch long after we have left the cinema screen. We may have a desire to inhabit the film’s inhabitable world, or perhaps to inherit the protagonist’s eccentricities. The futility of this leads us to cling on to the tangible, imitable aspects, such as a character’s wardrobe. Indeed, cinema is the vehicle that brings fashion to life for most of us as we experience costume as a vital part of the narrative.

The iconic imagery of certain films has left a deep impact on our collective fashion consciousness. This is your guide to the most sartorially influential cinema. 

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A Bout de Souffle (1960) – Probably the most iconic of the Godard’s Nouvelle Vague period films, A Bout de Souffle’s gamine Patricia (Jean Seberg) inspired a generation of women who adopted her pixie haircut and filled their wardrobes with Breton tops, chinos and ballet flats, synonymous with classic and chic French style. There was, in fact, no costume designer for A Bout de Souffle, and Godard encouraged the wearing of the actor’s own clothes. This film signals the abandonment of the prim, ladylike attire of the 1950’s and marks the transition into the tomboy look that represents free-spiritedness and liberty present in Patricia’s character. 

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Qui êtes-vous Polly Maggoo? (1966)Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? is Vogue photographer William Klein’s hilarious, if not eye opening satire of the fashion world. The opening scene is a shocking portrayal of the industry’s glamorous façade, as models take to the catwalk, having been fastened into sheets of aluminum. On the catwalk the models are serene and poised as they parade in these architectural masterpieces and the fictional head of the fashion world (based on Klein’s editor, Diana Vreeland) proclaims them ‘magnifique’, but backstage its grotesque reality is depicted, as a model screams having been badly cut by a sharp edge of her impractical, metal dress. The film is a flawless evocation of the Modernist pre-hippy sixties, influenced by La Nouvelle Vague, Mary Quant and Bridget Riley and seems to foreshadow many of Gareth Pugh’s latest designs. 

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The Great Gatsby (1974) – With another remake of the movie coming out later this year, this season has seen many fashion houses taking inspiration from the Jazz Age, symbolic of freedom and hedonism. Gucci’s Frida Giannini has cited the inspiration for the 90th anniversary collection as being “the architectural shapes, especially the New York skyscrapers of the period”. It was after styling all the male characters in the 1974 version of the film that Ralph Lauren became a household name, and garnered him an Academy Award. 

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Annie Hall (1977) – Annie Hall’s (Diane Keaton) style embodies a range of dichotomies that should not logistically work, but which she manages to pull off with ease. Her outfits are at the same time masculine and feminine, irrational and organized, frumpy and tailored. On their first encounter, Woody Allen’s character compliments what Annie Hall is wearing, to which she replies: “Well, uh, this tie was a present from Grammy Hall”. Everything that she wears has a symbolic value, and only works due to the enigmatic and quirky nature of her character. Allen loved Keaton’s style so much that he refused to hire a stylist, and indeed, Annie Hall’s style seems to reflect Diane Keaton’s own neuroses, signaled by the covered up nature of the garments.

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The Virgin Suicides (1999)– The dark, sinister nature of the film is contrasted with the sisters’ innocent appearances, clothed in outfits of long, pastel coloured silk and chiffon. The outfits were intricately and painstakingly detailed in order to imitate 70s style, from the billowing sleeves of the white maxi dresses to the velvet bell-bottoms of the boys’ suits. Coppola allows the dresses to portray the sisters’ fluctuation between girl and woman and between innocence and impurity.

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The Royal Tenenbaums (2001)– What makes the costume design in The Royal Tenebaums so unique is the fact that each character has their own idiosyncratic uniform that stays with them for the duration of the film, from their infancy at the beginning, right until the end. The Director, Wes Anderson, explained that this was supposed to show how the characters all peak in their adolescence and never evolve in the same way again, becoming static characters. Margot’s (Gwenyth Paltrow) wardrobe is a mélange of sporty and glamorous, her daily outfit being a piqué collar Lacoste tennis dress, a Hermes ‘Birkin’ bag, and a caramel coloured mink coat designed especially by Fendi. Margot’s look has inspired many designers, most recently Cynthia Rowley’s Autumn/Winter 2011 collection.

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Marie Antoinette (2006) – What the critics found lacking in substance and historical accuracy are certainly made up for by the visual elements of the film, with the Italian costume designer Milena Canonero winning an Academy Award for her efforts. Marie Antoinette (Kirsten Dunst) wore 60 different dresses during the film; all designed in Rome’s Cinecitta studios, considered to be the core of Italian cinema. Coppola, who directed the film, is said to have handed Canonero a box of pastel coloured macaroons from Ladurée, and said, “These are the colours I love”. This pastel colour palette translates perfectly onto Marie Antoinette’s outfits and the set design in general, and illuminates the aim of the film: to show Marie Antoinette less as the commonly portrayed detached hedonist but more as a naïve, playful girl thrown into the role of Queen at a far too early age.

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A Single Man (2009) – Tom Ford’s direction delivers a perfectly rose tinted portrait of 1960’s American style and aesthetic, which masks the desperately crumbling reality of the film’s characters. Arianne Phillips was asked to design the costumes, with Charley’s (Julianne Moore) black and white dress as the centerpiece but the men’s fashion does not fail to disappoint either. Even in the scene where George (Colin Firth) is sitting on the toilet reading a book, his shirt, tie and dark, thick-rimmed glasses combo exudes sophistication. Phillips started her research for the male characters by looking into 1960’s sack suits but transformed the silhouette into one that was more relevant to the contemporary eye, so that they appear tailored yet loose at the same time, all produced in Ford’s Italian factory. One of Ford’s reasons for creating the film (out of his own pocket), was the longevity of film as a medium, something which is essentially a time capsule from the moment of creation but which lives on, as opposed to fashion which needs to be new and ever evolving in order to be consumed and appreciated.

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Io Sono l’Amore(2009) – Tilda Swinton stars as Emma Recchi in Io Sono l’Amore, a visual masterpiece about the oppressive nature of the Milanese haute-bourgeoisie. Raf Simons of Jil Sander and his team were asked to create the pieces so that the colour palette changes from muted colours and pastels at the beginning of the film, to the red dress in the second half of the film which signals her succumbing to socially forbidden passions. The director stated that the choice of Jil Sander’s team came from their understanding of “an extremely subtle dialogue within the film between narrative and fashion”. 

Oxford researchers solve MS drug mystery

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A study by a team of Oxford scientists has solved a decade-long medical puzzle explaining why drugs prescribed for people suffering from Multiple Sclerosis (MS) often made their symptoms worse. 

Researchers were unsure why the drugs used successfully on other autoimmune diseases like rheumatoid arthritis and inflammatory bowel disease did not work for patients with MS.

For the past three years the Oxford University team, in collaboration with German, Danish and US scientists, has focused on one particular variant gene called TNFRSD1A, which was previously associated with the risk of developing MS. 

The normal gene is responsible for the production of a protein which sits on the surface of cells and binds TNF, an important signalling molecule involved in a number of biological pathways in the body. 

The Oxford-led research team discovered that the variant caused the production of an altered, shortened version of the protein which mops up TNF, preventing it from signalling. 

According to the joint authors of the paper, Mr Adam Gregory and Dr Calliope Dendrou, from the Nuffield Department of Clinical Neurosciences, “the drugs given to MS patients [TNF blockers] mirror the action of the variant gene, thereby promoting or exacerbating their symptoms.”

On its own, the genetic variant TNFRSD1A is linked only to a modest risk of developing MS. However, in conjunction with the drugs its effect is greatly amplified.

According to the authors of the study, it is “the first of its kind” and demonstrates the clinical relevance of studying genetics. 

“A prior knowledge of the functional effects of the gene variant could have helped predict the poor outcome of the drugs,” explained Mr Gregory and Dr Dendrou. The study shows how an understanding of the overall mechanisms that lead to disease through genetics can ensure better drug administration. 

Mr Gregory and Dr Dendrou told Cherwell, “we’re delighted to have been part of what we believe is a very important study, and that this has been reflected in the media interest that we’ve had since its publication.”

Multiple sclerosis (MS) is a neurological condition which affects around 100,000 people in the UK. In MS, the coating around nerve fibres called myelin is damaged by the immune system which mistakes it for a foreign body and attacks it. This damage disrupts messages travelling along the nerve fibres between the brain and the body; they can slow down, become distorted, or not get through at all.

Nick Rijke, Director of Policy and Research at the MS Society, commented, “There are many genes associated with MS, but we know little about the role they play or the influence they have on the condition. This important study has shown that some of your genes can play a part in deciding whether or not you respond to a treatment.  In the future this could help ensure that people with MS are offered drug treatments that are most likely to work for them.”

Subject tests for Oxford entrance on the rise

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85% of students applying to Oxford this autumn will face an admissions test before interview, according to the University’s director of admissions.

In an interview with The Guardian, Mike Nicholson said that 70% of the subjects offered for 2013 entry at Oxford would require candidates to sit “some form of aptitude test”.

Materials Science, a course which has seen 40% growth in entries in the last half decade, will use an aptitude test for the first time this autumn.

The proportion of applicants to be assessed represents a steady increase from 60-65% of entries three years ago. This growing figure is “predominantly driven by the significant increase in applications over the last five years”, with “clumping” around the most competitive courses, such as Economics and Management.

This figure could rise further if more courses receive in excess of four applicants per place.

“More about diversity”

Oxford abolished entrance exams in 1995, but has slowly re-introduced ways of sifting out true ability in certain subjects as applicant numbers have skyrocketed.

While Nicholson acknowledges that the tests are designed to offer insights about candidates beyond the limitations of A-level results, he insists that increased testing is “more [about] the diversity of our applicant pool”.

“About 70% of our candidates take A-level. 30% don’t, and it’s the 30% that don’t that’s been an increasing figure. So in part, the tests benchmark the candidates against each other within a discipline so that we don’t have to try and make up complicated algorithms to offset what the German Abitur is against US SAT against the International Baccalaureate.”

Oxford University emphasised that there is “no set weighting or percentage” assigned to tests in relation to factors such as predicted grades, references, and interview performance.

The trend comes as the coalition government continues to review the adequacy of 14-19 qualifications.

Cherwell contacted Ofqual, the exam watchdog, who stated, “Our research shows that A-levels are well thought of by universities and are considered broadly fit for purpose. Certain areas can be improved, and we are looking into higher education having more involvement in developing and designing A-levels.

“It is right that universities can use additional selection measures to help them identify the right students for their courses.”

“Not an extra barrier”

OUSU’s Vice President for Access and Academic Affairs, David Messling, told Cherwell, “It shows steps in the right direction towards an ever more discerning and individual admissions process. As Oxford seeks much more information on a candidate, it’s in an even better position to admit students on their academic potential.

“There’s still more work to do – there’s a challenge to ensure that candidates and schools know that these tests are about giving more opportunities to show potential, and not an extra barrier.”

Cherwell spoke to Ssuuna Ggolooba-Mutebi, a student starting A-levels at a comprehensive in northwest London. He was initially daunted, “considering A-Levels are hard enough without one having to think about reading far ahead”.

However, upon explanation, he welcomed the opportunity to “think outside the box”, commenting that, “such questions shouldn’t be undoable for someone who really knows what they have learnt at school and is actually interested in the subject.”

Oriel historian David Mason, a former attendee of Oxford’s access summer school, voiced his reassurances. “While some applicants, particularly from disadvantaged schools, could be deterred from applying by the perception that there is another hurdle in their path, there is no need to see it that way.

“The tests are essentially meritocratic. I am informed that, in some subjects at least, final aptitude scores combine your test score with a contextualised GCSE score, and so actually benefits people from disadvantaged schools.”

When I Grow Up

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You didn’t know the first thing about jobs when you were five. Jobs were what grownups did. Why they bothered was anyone’s guess. Quite frankly, it was masochistic – why spend eight hours in a boring room when you could watch the Cbeebies channel all the time? I mean, how could you not want to? The Cbeebies channel is right there, all day. Intriguingly however, you would sometimes find that Johnny’s mummy or Katie’s daddy did something that was super super cool, and sometimes they had special assemblies for super super cool mummies and daddies who came in to tell us what they did. And they often looked like they had stepped right out of one of those Dorling Kindersley picture books with ‘My First’ in the title. Wow, you thought, I want to be just like that. One day I really want to be a…

 

Policeman/Policewoman

Once upon a time you could let someone take a hit to the jugular and run off with their pouch of groats without even getting an ASBO. The classic ‘bobby on the beat’, nicknamed after Tory reformer Robert Peel who created London’s Metropolitan Police force in 1829, has always been a staple figure in quaint children’s programmes based in small-to-economically-unviable-sized settlements. In Grown-up Land, things are less pedestrian in the big bad boroughs. The constable’s helmet is, these days, heavily oversubscribed. An alternative popular route is through becoming a Police Community Support Officer (PCSO), or you can volunteer a few hours a week as a ‘special constable’. To wield the truncheon, however, requires passing the Police Initial Recruitment Test, which only around 8% of candidates succeed in doing. And with frequent new reports of cuts to policing, that’s a high sense of duty on a thin blue line indeed.

 

Pilot

If you regret being born too late for the Battle of Britain, or hanker after the Mad Men school of sex appeal, Tom Cruise and Leonardo Di Caprio will have likely struck a chord with your aspirations. Many of us do find ourselves charmed by the idea of flight, frustratingly enticed by Frank Sinatra or flagrantly misled by the promises of Red Bull. When we were wee ones no one thought to remind us that stretching out both arms and wheeling them about in errant mid-sprint was unlikely to achieve lift, nor one of BA’s requisite competencies. Traditionally many civil aviation pilots are ex-air force, not least because private training to get aloft is pretty damn expensive. BA does actually have a ‘Future Pilot Programme’, training people up from scratch, but naturally such a rarity is keenly seized upon. Its inaugural year in 2011 received around 3,500 hopefuls for just 80 places – a success rate of about 0.02%.

 

Princess

Work experience is slightly tricky for this one. Needless to say the straight answer is that going to St Andrews probably helps. Otherwise, hedge your bets on being an American divorcée, a real fun gal, or just hanging about like a canny old bird for a few decades. Many prepubescent girls seem worryingly party to the belief that this is actually a viable career option. Are you still looking for that movie-miracle morganatic marriage? I hate to say it, but you might want to put it on the back burner when you get to final year. The odds of having a Notting Hill moment at 1am in Camera aren’t great. (Not even in VIP.) Besides, what’s going for it? You don’t even get to meet Ricky Tomlinson. In the half-imagined words of Bob Diamond, there are probably better perks at Barclays.

 

Firefighter

For an animated Welsh public sector worker, Fireman Sam deals with an unsettling level of negligence in the valleys. I don’t know if you missed it, but some major shit went down since the last time you saw him. To our recollection, the only fun part was the bit where you go down the pole, although it must be said that ‘fireman slides down pole’ is not a recommended search on Google Images, so perhaps better simply to recall the joy of it. If the likes of Ladder 49 does inspire you to pass babies out of burning buildings, there’s some way to go yet. In the UK there are also six National Firefighter Physical Tests: a 13.5-metre ladder climb in PPE (as Oxford students we of course know that’s Personal Protective Equipment), evacuating a 55kg casualty, lifting the mass of a ladder, crawling under simulated smoky conditions, and carrying and assembling equipment like hoses and pumps. The armed forces have their own fire services, as do airports, which are looked after by the BAA Fire Service. Full-time firefighting jobs are here and there but many places look favourably upon you if you’ve offered your services as a retained firefighter – a firefighter on-demand. In superhero-like vision it entitles you to sprint out of work to attend upon those half-baked babies.

 

Ballet dancer

Did Black Swan put you off? No? Great, we’ll continue. Think happy thoughts of County Durham mining families instead. After-school ballet or dance practice will have been a familiar segment in the earlier lives of many female readers, but as Natalie Portman manages to convey – though maybe a smidgen harshly – becoming prima ballerina assoluta is an un-dainty, if not gruelling ask, and can indeed carry physical risks. Unpalatable as you may imagine sober gyration in clubs to be, it pales alongside the thought of starting out at the age of three, which is by no means unusual, and becoming professional before you’re big enough to upgrade from the log flume at Alton Towers. As with any other artistic or sporting profession, fierce competition lays every step of the way, so getting in there as soon as you can walk, as well as being talented, diligent, and unwaveringly committed, helps. The best of the bunch might end up at one of the professional ballet schools, such as the English National Ballet School or the Royal Ballet School, or if you’ve got something special, the prestigious Bolshoi Academy in Russia. On making it through, you’ll have to join a company – often the one the ballet school is affiliated with. Even then you might find you’re good enough for the corps (the background dancers) – but not good enough to be a soloist. In the eponymous film, Billy Elliot’s answer to what inspires him about ballet is simply, “The dancin’.” And when he says, “I don’t want a childhood. I want to be a ballet dancer”, we figure he probably had the right attitude after all.

 

Astronaut

Growing up with the dregs of the Cold War freshly behind us, the glory days of going beyond the ionosphere could not fail to inspire the intrepid. Like Buzz Lightyear, we may fall back from our aspirations, but the sky’s never the limit for the young at heart and the obsessively dedicated. We have a problem though, Houston. It is exceptionally tough. The UK Space Agency is famously based in that most otherworldly of places, Swindon, but doesn’t actually fund any manned space research. NASA’s program is tops, but NASA only recruit every few years, with only a handful of international selectees. Short of forking out yourself, your best bet is to follow the lead of five of the six British people who have been into space, and actually become American. Also a plus is being an unashamed geek for science, like Michael Foale (a contemporary of Stephen Fry at Cambridge, who once made fun of him for saying he wanted to go into space), and perhaps have flown very big dangerous things before, like Major Timothy Peake, the newest British astronaut to have been selected via the European Space Agency. And talking about requirements doesn’t even broach the black-hole-pressure of selection and training. One of the things you have to be able to do to get on NASA’s two-year course is to swim three lengths of a swimming pool non-stop in full flight suit and tennis shoes. You need more than a doughty dash of determination to ruin a good pair of those.

 

Dinosaur hunter

We used to be nuts about dinos – a credit to Mr Spielberg, who made the idea of going into densely forested areas looking for old things that could possibly kill you seem like a right lark. The BBC caught on and did their thing, and Disney even released a film about an orphaned specimen making a long and arduous journey, although sadly before long we all started getting interested in another orphan and another long and arduous journey. You may not have heard of the Cambrian, the Devonian, or the Palaeogene, but you probably have heard of the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous; and everyone knows of the ‘terrible lizard’, tyrannosaurus rex. (Although, interestingly, not the biggest lad around.) When is an unhealthy obsession with wanting Indiana Jones’ whip not merely risqué? When you think you could be one assembling the bones in the Natural History Museum, that’s when. For that honour, you’ll need to be an earth scientist, biologist, or geologist, with a masters and a doctorate under your belt soon enough as well. Having dug your way all through education, it’s then a case of getting that research funding and digging some more. People can pay to go on short digs, but it’s some way better to be in a position where you can have some bitch of a carnivore named after you, or have the pleasure of naming it yourself.

 

Spy

Ian Fleming’s most famous creation feels implausibly distant to our humdrum lives, though funnily enough both the Security Service, MI5, and the Secret Intelligence Service, MI6, have graduate recruitment pages and profiles. (You need a 2.1.) The official use of the term ‘agent’ is actually better described as an informant, although in wonderfully classic bureau-speak they are technically known as ‘covert human intelligence sources’. James Bond would be what is called an MI6 ‘operational officer’; the MI5 equivalent is an ‘intelligence officer’. Bond is an old-school prodigy, having studied at Eton, Oxford, and Cambridge, but some things don’t change: Bond read Oriental Studies, and MI6 are still keen in this day and age on hearing from any Mandarin speakers. MI6’s website provides a ‘virtual tour’ of the organisation, which seems pretty surprising, though helpfully: ‘There are no pictures of actual SIS employees or interiors on this virtual tour.’ Understandably you aren’t allowed to tell anyone about your application, so don’t be too quick to judge that otherwise genius finalist who appears to be ambivalently faffing around. If you’re clean, stable, and have the balls, you can apply here, but suffice to say yours truly clicked through two pages and totally wussed out.

 

Doris Day would have a rubbish time in the twenty-tens. No longer can you rattle off a woolly “que sera, sera, whatever will be, will be” as legit careers advice to your precocious, socially aspirational nine-year-old. The very thought might make you yearn for the halcyon days of ‘jobs for life’. Back when you could pat them reassuringly, then proceed to seize them by the scruff of the neck and throw them back outside to accumulate hopscotch bruises on the cobbles while your local MP trundled past in one of them Morris Minors.

Thankfully, modern parenting needn’t be awkward. Pack them off to the nearest careers fair – it’s fantastic they’re thinking about work experience this early. Given that we are now all guaranteed to graduate with albatross-shaped millstones that will leave our naïve hopes in grim tatters, they may as well be trying to get an edge ahead of their starry-eyed peers. Plus, ‘chimney sweep’ is a great addition to any CV.

The Clegg-Cameron conundrum

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The entire cabinet surface area of the kitchen now lies beneath your unwashed dishes. The walls of your room and surrounding corridor are covered in a choking, amber tobacco-smoke residue. The floor of the living room is impenetrable under the mass of loose paper, empty cans and Gwen Stefani CDs strewn across it. It is your fourth day of living out in Oxford. Sadly your ignorant, philistine housemates fail to grasp that you are merely subverting oppressive and archaic social norms and you fear the rising tide of anger against you may lead to your imminent decapitation. What you need is a master-class in conflict resolution.

Perhaps you could take a lesson from the Prime Minister, who this week penned an article in the Sunday Times calling on Lib Dems and Tories to work together to mend the ailing coalition. “I have always called myself a liberal Conservative” effuses Mr Cameron, presumably in the hope that Nick Clegg will respond by stating that he considers himself a Tory democrat. He lists a number of coalition achievements: that they have reduced the long-term public sector pensions bill by half (i.e. public sector workers will receive much lower pensions); they have created a “tax system that rewards effort” (that is, they have given tax breaks to millionaires) and they have overseen an expensive railway investment plan (except they haven’t, not yet at least, but Mr Cameron feels the need to mention it anyway). There was no reference to the government’s deeply controversial health reforms and the tuition fee rise received an honourable, if very brief and indirect, mention.

The document is, in essence, a list of reforms the Lib Dems would certainly not have passed were they the sole force within the executive, tied together with a vague message about how both Tory and Lib Dem are both into “progressive goals” and against “uniform state control”, whatever that means. The article unintentionally highlights the increasing uselessness of the coalition to the Liberal Democrats. It is very clear given the failure of the AV referendum and increasing likelihood of Lord’s reform derailment, that the Lib Dems will come out of this coalition with nothing to show for it. If their two flagship policies are sunk, then they too cannot possibly hope to remain afloat as anything like a serious political force in the future.

Clegg’s recent threat of “consequences” (surely all actions have consequences?) following a failure to reform the upper house are hence perfectly understandable. Matthew Paris and other may have decried the Liberal leader’s comments as blackmail, but they must be using a very atypical definition of blackmail. Threatening to withdraw support for your partner’s policies if they do not support yours is simply how a coalition works. If Clegg had threatened to release photographs of Cameron masturbating a sheep whilst dressed as a Nazi (Cherwell disclosure: to our knowledge no such photograph exists) then that would have been blackmail.

Cameron’s plea, and of course the very need to publish it, show how rickety the coalition is getting. With Labour consistently polling a good ten points above the Tories and a Labour majority at the next election (whenever that may be) looking very likely, the only remaining utility of the coalition to either Lib Dem or Tory is that it is a means of staving off an inevitable political wipe-out for a little bit longer. Perhaps this is the shared value Cameron should really have mentioned.

Oh and for christsakes go wash those dishes. I mean seriously.

Around Italy in Ten Days

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A pigeon flies overhead in St Marks Square 

 

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Sunset on the River Arno in Florence

 

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Looking out from the Uffizi balcony

 

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A view from a window in a Florentine convent

 

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A stream of light in St Peters Basilica

 

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Sunset in Rome

 

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The Colosseum at nighttime

Olympic Torch passes through Oxford

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The Olympic Torch passed through Oxford earlier this week, inspiring two days of sporting celebration.

The torch arrived on July 9th after stopping for afternoon tea at Blenheim palace. It spent a night of celebrations in Oxford’s South Park, paying homage to the city’s rich sporting history. The bearers included community leaders, historic sportsmen and Olympic hopefulls, all of whom were accompanied by a large cheering crowd.

Amongst the 26 torchbearers there were Olympians new and old. Team GB archer Naomi Folkard carried the torch on Monday, ex-Olympic gymnast and charity worker Suzanne Dando the following morning. Roger Bannister carried the flame for a lap of the running track where he famously achieved a sub-four minute mile in 1954.

The torch was not just limited to sportsmen and women; it was also conveyed by community workers such as James Grote, director of the Ark-T community arts project. Multiple generations were nominated in recognition of their charitable work, including Harrison Anton, 16, Christine Carter, 85, and Oxford University Student Nichola Byrom, 25.

The torch itself has a special link with Oxford. An industrial design studio run by former Oxford Brookes student Jay Osgerby won the commission to design this symbol of the 2012 games, which has also gone on to win the prestigious Design of the Year Award. Furthermore, 30 current members and alumni of Oxford University will potentially be taking part in the games and many more from Oxford Brookes.

Steph Cook, Olympic Gold Medalist and Oxford Graduate, said that there was “an incredible atmosphere” as the torch passed through. Local school children had created bunting to decorate the streets and pubs and community centres held special events, creating a street party atmosphere. Some Oxford residents were not as impressed, with the relay being described by blogger Robin Lomax as “a quasi-military operation for people to capture on their smart phone”. Phones were certainly out in force, documenting the fleeting passage of the torch, while the attendees received various promotional gifts from the Games’ corporate sponsors.

The relay and celebration went by largely without incident and were accompanied by a friendly, celebratory atmosphere. However, in nearby Henley-on-Thames a streaker was arrested for disrupting the relay. Daniel Leer ran naked carrying a fake torch with the words ‘Free Tibet’ written on his back. He was quickly arrested and charged with indecent exposure.

Celebrations continued after the cauldron was lit in South Park, with a theatrical performance centred around The Tree of Light, a gigantic artistic installation created by designers Block9. The event, which welcomed the Olympic flame to Oxford, formed a part of the larger Oxfordshire Olympic celebrations funded by the Cultural Olympiad and Legacy Trust, a series of collaborations between performers and artists of different disciplines. These will continue later in the month and run parallel to the Olympic games, allowing communities and schools throughout the Thames Valley to be involved in the celebrations.

The creative team, which includes artistic director Charlie Morrissey and composer Orlando Gough, will bring together more than 1,200 performers ranging from professionals to community and school groups in a spectacular sensual extravaganza. The finale will be in Grand Stonor Park in Henley on 21st of July.

Full coverage can be found on the Cherwell’s broadcasting service.

New undergraduate support is timely and right

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The Moritz–Heyman donation, contrary to earlier comment in this paper, should be welcomed. This is not because the current settlement for students was unfair – the post-Browne system was based on the idea that it was the university students themselves who ought to pay a greater proportion of the cost of their education. Given the burden on the taxpayer, this seems fair. Indeed raising fees was not a symbolic gesture but a concession to the imminent financial environment: if Oxford could lower fees, then it would. The Moritz–Heyman Scholarship makes this possible for the poorest of Oxford’s students.

We have long suffered from a perception that we are a “university for the rich” – or at least the well heeled middle classes. When evaluating where Mr Moritz and Ms Heyman ought to direct their money, this consideration is clearly something which sets Oxford (and Cambridge) apart from other universities. A tuition fee of £9,000 a year will inevitably act as a negative signal to that effect to those on low incomes, even if the package of bursaries and the fees system mean that in reality it remains a good investment.

Regardless of image, reducing living costs has always been central to Oxford’s attempts to broaden its intake of students from lower-income families. Whilst the recently introduced repayment system makes it less obvious why that ought to still work, two things must still be remembered. 

First, any student loan is still a loan; it is still money that has been spent in the hope of increasing your future earnings. Depressingly the public remains poor at accurately forecasting the future value of something to them, preferring a bird in the hand to two in the bush. Moreover, the effect of coming from a family on a lower income warps that person’s attitude to money and saving in particular. It is important to remember that the Moritz–Heyman Scholarship will apply to those on household incomes of just £16,000; in other words, a little more than one family member on the minimum wage.

For those who struggle to make ends meet on a daily basis, justifying what might be £20,000 of debt even with bursary arrangement must be difficult. Alleviating the financial burden that attending Oxford is seen to pose will help attract those from lower-income families. It is reassuring that last year’s applicants shared the same socio-economic mix as previous years, but this was hardly a satisfactory state of affairs. The long term effect is uncertain: although Peter Wilby in the Guardian might be sceptical about its effects, his views clearly aren’t shared by many at his paper.

Second, income is not the sole factor in your ability to repay your student loan. Wealth plays a large role, and one which it would be easy to underestimate. If your student loan acts essentially like an additional income tax, then how much poorer it makes you will ultimately depend on how the rest of your income is spent – whether you have the security of a forthcoming inheritance, or conversely have to pay for the case of your parents or family dependents because others in the family do not have the means.

Donors always have other options for their money, but Oxford’s problems are unlikely to be solved from the outside. Free of large capital projects on which to spend the money, and ever wary of holding too much power over the colleges, the University, Mr Moritz and Ms Heyman have made the correct decision.

Summer Showers

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It’s wet, it’s cold, it’s…summer?! The British weather has stayed true to form, and once again we are faced with a very dismal Summer Vacation. Those denim shorts, crop tops, light blouses and floral sun dresses are relegated to the back of the wardrobe, some still with the tags on. So what should we be wearing if we don’t want to risk a mild case of pneumonia?

My advice – fast forward to A/W 2012. Wear those skimpy denim shorts more suited to an exotic week in Mauritius, but warm them up with an oversized sweater, opaque tights, and then finish off the look either with some on trend sporty high tops, or tan brogues with chunky ankle socks popping out over the top.

That sheer blouse can still be worn, just make sure you team it with an oversized beanie hat, insulating bomber jacket, and maybe even bring in a dash of colour (and more layers) with a bright animal print scarf. For those looking for a classier look, try a faux fur stole.

Another way to keep the summer alive but still stay warm is to stick to the maxi length in your skirts. The extra length gives more protection from the blustering winds, but is still a light and fresh nod to summer, especially if you opt for a sorbet lemon à la Keira Knightley as seen in New York a few weeks ago, or a pastel peppermint shade.

Staples for this wardrobe shake-up are a bomber or leather jacket, little black ankle boots or leather brogues, chunky ankle socks and matching hat, and as we near the actual winter period, an oversized woollen coat- think 1940s post-war chic, just two sizes too big. Think on the bright side- these are true investment pieces that will be part of your wardrobe, not just through to winter, but for years to come.

Just because we are lacking summer weather, doesn’t mean we have to forgo style. Wear that sun dress with pride, just with an edgy leather jacket to keep you warm.

Why the Moritz-Heyman donation is a philanthropic waste

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We should always commend generosity, especially when the cheque comes with so many zeros. Oxford will now extend its lead amongst UK universities in financial undergraduate support – clearly that is a good thing.

It is also a spectacular philanthropic waste. Remember, students are not expected to pay any of their tuition up front and the loan is repayable only from taxable income which they might subsequently earn. The purpose for which Michael Moritz has earmarked his donation, to massively increase bursaries to low-income undergrads, is therefore wrong-headed. It is akin to stumbling into Goldman Sachs and randomly distributing cash. Once the student from Bog Standard Comprehensive is at Oxford, he or she has roughly the same chance as an Old Etonian of becoming successful. Oxford’s core problem is that they are less likely to get there in the first place; tragically few are able to break the shackles of a deprived socio-economic background. This donation does absolutely nothing to solve that, doing precisely nothing for social mobility. Rather than turbo-charging efforts to get low-income students into Oxford, £300 million will be spent mollycoddling those who are already here.

There is an argument that by driving student costs down, Oxford can vanquish fears that poorer kids have about the huge student debts they will amass. In this way more will apply. Unfortunately the evidence that they were being put off lies somewhere between sketchy and non-existent. The socio-economic mix of applicants for 2012 entry, under the higher fees regime, was almost identical to the previous year.

What was Moritz’ aim? Presumably to encourage and enable the underprivileged to aspire to Oxford. Why then didn’t he donate his millions to the Sutton Trust, which takes young people from failing schools and prepares them for the rigours of university life? Or why didn’t he elect to benefact Oxford’s outreach programme which, through its excellent work dispelling the many myths about our ancient institution, encourages applicants from diverse backgrounds?

To reiterate, it’s lovely that students with limited means will get more. We all have friends in college whose lives will be made easier by Moritz’ extraordinary gift. Think though what else could have been done with £300 million. Big donations like that only come along once in a generation and through misdirecting the money, Michael Moritz and the University have scuppered the chance to redress the inter-generational problem of social immobility. I’m alluding to the concept of ‘opportunity cost’; could something bigger and better have been achieved with the money? The answer is an emphatic yes.