Sunday, May 18, 2025
Blog Page 1824

Monkeying Around

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Review: Ladysmith Black Mambazo at the New Theatre

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Ladysmith Black Mambazo took to the Oxford New Theatre stage before an audience who knew what they were getting. After forty seven years as a group, where they’ve had the chance to enjoy genuine global fame, it has been a long time since they were an unknown quantity. That the crowd departed so uplifted is made all the more impressive by this lack of the element of surprise.

Ladysmith’s recordings are consistently enjoyable, but after talking to founding member Albert Mazibuko it was clear that live performance was by some distance more important to them. This is apparent when attending a gig of theirs. I can’t remember seeing a group have so much fun on stage. Those voices: gorgeous, enthralling harmonies were the order of the day and the group didn’t falter once in the delivery. Ladysmith spend a huge amount of time in practice, and it shows. Despite large amounts of improvisation, and a very loose style, there was not one noticeable gaffe. Working their way through several cuts off their new album Songs from a Zulu Farm to begin with (which involved a higher frequency of animal impressions than this reviewer is usually comfortable with, though they made it work), they began to weave in older material like ‘Unomathemba’. A notable highlight was an electric rendition of ‘Homeless’, leaving many around me in tears.

Band leader Joseph Shabalala, now nearing seventy but with the energy of a man half his age, marshals affairs with a confidence borne of extreme familiarity. On the few songs where he was absent, his role was taken with panache by his son, and Ladysmith’s dauphin, Thamsanqa, who had more than a few in the crowd swooning. On this evidence the group’s future is in safe hands. Each of the other members had several moments in the limelight, and the friendly jostling for lone dance time was one of the more memorable features of the show, with much manhandling between Shabalala’s sons.

This was a hugely enjoyable show. Having identified their mission as the spreading of joy, the members of Ladysmith Black Mambazo needed only to look at the beaming faces as they finished their finale of ‘Shosholoza’ (for a brief minute it looked like they intended to finish with a fun but ephemeral cover of ‘Old Macdonald had a Farm’, which would have been mischievous to say the least) to know that in Oxford at least it was mission accomplished.

Review: Amadeus

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It’s always difficult coming to a play knowing an adaptation better than the original. Although Peter Shaffer’s Amadeus was premiered in 1979, five years before Miloš Forman’s acclaimed film production, I suspect that most people will be in the same position that I was when I was treated to a preview of the first act of the Trinity College Lawns production.

As unfair as it is, I was sceptical at first—I’ll be called a philistine, but I was left feeling distinctly underwhelmed when I saw Dale Wasserman’s One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest knowing most of the lines of Forman’s version of Ken Kesey’s book by heart—however, thanks to stunning performances by Thomas Olver (Antonio Salieri), Hugh Macfarlane (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart) and Maude Morrison (Constanze Weber, Mozart’s wife), the Trinity production of Amadeus has a freshness and vitality that will command the attention of even the most ardent devotees of Forman’s film.

For those unacquainted with either the play or the film, the essential subject matter is Mozart’s life in late 18th century Vienna. Narrated by the jealousy-consumed, senior composer, Salieri, the play is equal parts psychological drama and sacrilegious burlesque. Those of a historical bent may well find themselves annoyed. To call Amadeus highly fictionalised is an understatement: Shaffer can be held accountable for propagating the facile genius myth that now dominates popular Mozart reception in spite of evidence that Mozart was a relatively well-adjusted, well integrated member of Austrian society. Nonetheless, the bottom line is that it’s entertaining.

Olver’s performance as Salieri is captivating from start to finish, while Macfarlane’s Mozart, fiery and whimsical by turns, is the perfect dramatic partner. It is Morrison as Mozart’s wife, however, who delivers some of the most emotionally compelling performances, exuding a vulnerable gravity that dominates her scenes without ever becoming overbearing.

Naturally, the production incorporates music by both Mozart and Salieri, and I am moved to wonder why, in performances otherwise so polished, there is not more attention given to learning to conduct realistically. Macfarlane’s attempt was more sticking pins in a notice board than leading an orchestra, but this is a minor niggle in an otherwise exhilarating performance.

 

4 STARS

 

Amadeus is showing in Trinity College Lawns every night at 7.30pm from Wednesday 8 June to Saturday 11 June, with an additional 2.30pm performance on the Saturday. Tickets are £7/£5.

 

Unplugged: A week without internet

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When my lovely bosses at Cherwell asked me to do a feature on going without internet for a week I have to admit I was pretty worried at first and tried to dream up ways of getting round it, such as timing it to coincide with a holiday abroad. However, I had to admit it seemed like an interesting social experiment and a challenge. After all, we are constantly being told that the internet is becoming a more and more integral part of our lives and there seems to be a never-ending supply of stories about the dangers of the internet and its overuse. I was curious to see how far I could go.

A friend in college had voluntarily and surprisingly comfortably done ‘No Facebook February’ but she made the mistake of telling people that she would not be accessing her account for a month. People started to post various amusing YouTube videos on her wall and it turned into a very good source of material for anyone looking for some quality procrastination. I decided not to make the same mistake and not to let anyone know about the trial I would be undergoing. Surely it could not be that hard? Oh how wrong I was…

The first two days were surprisingly fine and I didn’t really notice my lack of internet usage. This was probably because I was out for most of the time and away from the computer. Being no luddite, I often used to use the internet on my phone just to pass time, usually while waiting for someone or when on the bus, checking Facebook or my email. I found it quite odd not doing this. In fact not using the internet felt kind of liberating and it felt like I had more time. However, over the next few days this would not be the case.

Not having access to the internet created minor annoyances which were not always possible to get around. For directions, I often used to use Google Maps or the maps app on my phone but now I found myself stranded without technical aid. There were other small things like not being able to use BBC News in the mornings to check the headlines, or not being able to use Google and Wikipedia to check something I was wondering about. And, devoid of online procrastination, I found myself discovering numerous other distractions. Thankfully the cricket world cup was on as well as the second legs of the Champions League 2nd round.

Trying to do an essay on my computer pushed my resolve almost to breaking point. A few times I came close to slipping. It seems pitiable now, but I think I am mechanically programmed to automatically sign onto the internet every time I switch on. Each time I made this mistake, it took all the willpower I posessed to press that wretched ‘close’ button. I think I was most tempted to check Facebook or my email. What if there was an email or something that required a reply? What if a friend posted something on my wall that needed a ‘like’ or comment with an obscene amount of x’s in response? It would be rude not to reply – the world as I knew it would be over!

I found myself texting and phoning more to keep up to date with friends and happenings. After all I had to find a way to replace my hours of facebook stalking which would enable me to understand everything that everyone I know or ever knew or who a friend of a friend of a friend once met a aparty was doing at every moment.

I did end up going out more than I had planned, since at home it was always very easy to turn on the computer and waste away hours on Google, YouTube and Facebook. I enjoyed this side of the experience as I felt I was making the most of my time, which I seemed to have much more of. However, when it got to the last few days and when I had already been out and seen people and had already watched most of the sporting events on TV, I really felt the absence of the internet. It is probably the best time-wasting tool available and I passionately missed that. But it was fine when it was all over and I could return to watching mildly funny YouTube videos that I had been sent on Facebook or to the short online games on Mousebreaker. It seems a bit silly now, but without internet I felt I was missing out on small things like this. Oh the bliss…

I am slightly impressed with myself that I made it through a week but to be fair it wasn’t too hard. I just had to suppress a habit. Battle with my fingers itching to check out Facebook. Reaffirm to myself that I am not in any way addicted to the internet. Initially it was, in fact, rather liberating not wasting away time online. However, by not using it, I realised just how important the internet has become in our everyday lives and how much of our day we devote to it. I think I used to spend at least 2-3 hours a day online, probably more. At the same time I realised that if I was not using the internet I found other replacement distractions. It would have been much more difficult if I had to try to go a week without a phone, TV or computer.

Unplugging does not seem to make sense and is impractical in such a wired world. The BBC recently did a special report where they put a remote Nigerian community online, while families in South Korea were challenged to go offline for a week. South Korea is often called the world’s most wired society, boasting the fastest average broadband speeds on the planet. We have heard many stories of internet addiction there and even deaths resulting from extremely long online gaming sessions. The BBC found it very hard finding two families in South Korea to give up their normal lives and go without internet. Many people they asked protested saying it would be too great a sacrifice and that the internet was too important a part of their lives. They shopped online, they needed it for work, and their children did homework online. In the most developed countries, the internet has become so integrated into our lives that it is difficult to imagine going without it. This is not necessarily a bad thing as the internet has made so many things easier and more convenient for us, but perhaps spending a little less time checking who’s poked my primary school classmate might be a good idea…

Overall, I found my week offline to be an interesting experiment and it made me think about the big role the internet plays in our lives. Whilst I would not voluntarily do it again, mainly because during term time I would find it impossible, I don’t regret my experiment.

 

 

 

 

 

Review: Blue Remembered Hills

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Originally written for television, Dennis Potter’s drama about the antics of a group of children in the Forest of Dean in 1943 is a play that juxtaposes the joys and exuberance of childhood with its singular cruelties. With the play essentially following the extended playtime of a group of eight year olds there is potential for the production to be incredibly exasperating. Watching two hours of boisterous boys hollering and play fighting is not my idea of a good night at the theatre. Thankfully, this play is far more insightful than that and while at times the cast might overegg the vigour of childhood, the cast do well to present a believable snapshot of a countryside upbringing.

Often compared to Lord of the Flies, the play goes about defying the audience’s preconceptions about the idyllic nature of a rural childhood. More than anything, these children are united by their cruelty and it is easy to see why Caitlin McMillan (director) and Elena Gaddes (producer), the team behind Ribble Productions, had long cherished the hope of putting on this play together. Such is its acuity about even the youngest participants in our society’s potential for brutality. Social problems such as domestic violence and alcoholism also bubble unobtrusively at the back of the play as the children innocently mimic the conversations of their absent parents. One of my only quibbles with the production is that it doesn’t make more of the ways in which social deprivation and the children’s cruelty may be linked, but perhaps this is something that will be borne out by what sounds like an impressive set and costuming.

The cast have to be commended on their mastery of the West Country dialect in which the play is written. I keenly listened out for any slips but these actors did a uniformly good job of conjuring a Gloucestershire accent. Lily Levinson as Audrey is the stand-out performance of the production. In contrast to the television version, she chooses to play the usually whiny and pathetic Audrey with a humorous undertone, very deftly bringing to life the certain lack of self-awareness and vanity that children have to great comic effect. Ziad Samaha as Willie shows a similar plausibility as a mischievous young lad. Well acted and professionally staged, this production looks set to be a fine testament to the bright future of Ribble Productions.

 

3.5 STARS

Oxford’s Best: Muffin

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Let’s be honest, muffins, in all their glory, aren’t really all that important a topic. They are one of those foods that’s barely a food. Is it a snack? Is it a meal? A cupcake in disguise or part of a nutritious breakfast? We just don’t know. No one wants a muffin top, this we do know, but here it seems to be something of an irrelevancy. 

Let’s be honest, muffins, in all their glory, aren’t really all that important of a topic. They are one of those foods that’s barely a food. Is it a snack? Is it a meal? A cupcake in disguise or part of a nutritious breakfast? We just don’t know. No one wants a muffin top, this we do know, but here it seems to be something of an irrelevancy. 
The particular ambiguity of said pseudo-food lend to what the two “best” categories: best in that the muffin actually tastes good, which as it turns out is rare, and in the sense that it serves its purpose.  Take, for example, the skinny blueberry muffin from Starbucks. It is not so much a pastry as a kitchen sponge with conceivably the same calorific value.  However, the spongy nature of this muffin makes it perfect for sneaking into the library in times of academic crisis: minimal crumbage. So if you are looking for something friendly for the figure and good for those wanna-be bad girl tendencies eat this. 
If you are looking for something that actually tastes like it’s meant to be edible go for the Missing Bean or Bleroni.  I’m a fan of the Missing Bean’s lemon poppy seed muffin; it’s very cakey, dense and quite large. It’s a meal kind of muffin. Their blueberry muffins look fabulous too, especially in their crinkly, yes-we-make-these-from-scratch wrappers.  I have not personally sampled the Bleroni muffins, seeing as they’ve been out each time I tried, but the banana chocolate chip muffin comes highly, highly, recommended. It apparently has “a unique blend of flavors, none overpowering the others. Thinly sliced bananas of goodness.” Given this description I wonder if they don’t have some kind of narcotic qualities. 
To finish up let’s just say Patisserie Valerie, “gross.” And Nero’s muffins tend to come wrapped in plastic.  Not a good sign.  

The particular ambiguity of said pseudo-food results in two distinct “best” categories: best in that the muffin actually tastes good, which as it turns out is rare, and in the sense that it serves a purpose. Take, for example, the skinny blueberry muffin from Starbucks. It is not so much a pastry as a kitchen sponge with conceivably the same calorific value.  However, the spongy nature of this muffin makes it perfect for sneaking into the library in times of academic crisis: minimal crumbage. So if you are looking for something friendly to your figure and good for those wannabe bad girl tendencies, eat this. 

If you are looking for something that actually tastes like it’s meant to be edible go for the Missing Bean or Bleroni.  I’m a fan of the Missing Bean’s lemon poppy seed muffin; it’s very cakey, dense and quite large. It’s a meal kind of muffin. Their blueberry muffins look fabulous too, especially in their crinkly, yes-we-make-these-from-scratch wrappers.  I have not personally sampled the Bleroni muffins, seeing as they’ve been out each time I tried, but the banana chocolate chip version comes highly, highly, recommended. It apparently has “a unique blend of flavors, none overpowering the others. Thinly sliced bananas of goodness.” Given this description I wonder if they don’t have some kind of narcotic quality. 

To finish up let’s just say Patisserie Valerie, “gross.” And Nero’s muffins tend to come wrapped in plastic.  Not a good sign.

 

The Circle of Life

In our first term at Oxford, we may all have undergone changes that we didn’t expect ourselves to be capable of. For me, I did something I never imagined would be possible without serious obstacles three times a day: befriend a vegetarian.

I think of him on Sundays, while every pub and every home in Great Britain radiates with the unmistakeable perfume of pork crackling, roast chicken or lardy potatoes, and I thank the high heavens that I have not allowed the guilt of dying animals to burden me with vegetarianism. Likewise, in summertime I have nothing but sympathy for the cowering herbivores that hover in the corner of a garden-party barbecue. Instead I take a moment to congratulate myself again for refusing to surrender to the animal-loving seven year old that I once was, and gleefully chow down my third sausage and burger sandwich.

And it’s this very situation that confuses and stumps me every May. While the entire nation is cooking on coals the minute the weather permits this novelty to be acceptable, vegetarians are quaking in their non-leather boots as they are exiled from the savage feast and tremble back to the crudités and salad stand, furiously checking if there’s gelatine in the guacamole.Well, perhaps they aren’t all the shrunken frail waifs that I’m illustrating. In fact most would probably be over the moon with a Quorn hot dog to shadow their vacuous meat-gut, but why you’d make a decision not to eat meat and instead favour a pitiful processed counterfeit, is beyond me and frankly, fraudulent.

At the risk of hypocrisy, I also deeply resent their preaching. All of them. The life-long veggie, who grew up in a solar powered mud-hut and ate nothing but organic cabbage is no worse than the week-long fad dieter who’s trying it out for a bet. Each one of them has convinced themselves that they are on the path to righteousness and exemplary health, and most of them are of the opinion that they might seize me as a convert. Well, they can try.

In fact one did last night, spurred on by shots of Dutch courage. Embarrassingly, at the time they seemed convincing and I’m pretty sure I promised to try it for a day. But now we’re both hungover, and while they may be bedridden with a piece of dry toast and green tea, I’m getting to the end of my bacon-double-decker and feeling better than ever. Ha! Who’s healthy now? Once again I’m feeling very smug with my (a)morality.

The softer side of Sudan

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Sudan is a country that you are far more likely to see on the front pages of the newspaper – whether for the war in Darfur or the ICC’s arrest warrants against President Al-Bashir or the recent referendum where nearly 99% of southern Sudanese voters decided that they want an independent South Sudan – than in the travel section. But even in as politically volatile a place as Sudan, there is an incredible amount to see and do and learn and absorb, to enjoy and to engage with, to celebrate and to embrace.

udan is a country that you are far more likely to see on the front pages of the newspaper – whether for the war in Darfur or the ICC’s arrest warrants against President Al-Bashir or the recent referendum where nearly 99% of southern Sudanese voters decided that they want an independent South Sudan – than in the travel section. But even in as politically volatile a place as Sudan, there is an incredible amount to see and do and learn and absorb, to enjoy and to engage with, to celebrate and to embrace.
At the end of 2010, I spent four weeks in the capital, Khartoum, working as a political observer for the US-based Carter Center, observing and reporting on preparations for the historic referendum, the unassailable results of which were announced in February and which will officially lead to the creation of the world’s newest country in July. Khartoum is in the North, where the prevailing sentiment was pro-unity, albeit with salient pro-separation pockets among Southerners living there. There was thus understandable anxiety in the capital about the impending fracture of the country, and trepidation about the potential for renewed violence after decades of civil war.
Khartoum itself is a hot, vibrant city, with such a mix of cultures and economies that it can be difficult to paint a cohesive picture. The blatant economic inequality that is the hallmark of much of the developing world takes on a particularly problematic character here as it often matches ethnic divisions. A half-hour drive from the grandiose Presidential Palace and the stunning Libyan-built 5-star Burj Al-Fateh hotel on the tree-lined Nile Road, are the sprawling, sandy, often bitter IDP camps populated by those who fled the fighting in the South during what is Africa’s longest civil war, as well as more recent entrants from Darfur.
The city is made up of three distinct areas, divided by the Niles and linked by impressively imposing bridges: Khartoum proper, the official and commerical downtown core;  Khartoum North, a more industrial part; and Omdurman, the cultural heartland. Khartoum is home to a particularly interesting geographic landmark – Al-Mogran, where the White Nile and the Blue Nile meet. Arab poets have called it the ‘the longest kiss in history’, and it is a wonderful symbol of confluence and harmony in a city where so much history and so many hopes so passionately collide.
The people that I met and worked with in Khartoum are some of the warmest and kindest I have had the fortune to come across. The Northern Sudanese culture is very clearly marked by such generosity and hospitality that it can be overwhelmingly heart-warming. This could especially be seen by the way people, even strangers, greet one another – with the warmest smiles, handshakes and hugs all around.
The Sudanese are also known for being very honest and trustworthy. I witnessed this first-hand when a random labourer who found my mobile phone when I dropped it somewhere, went out of his way to first contact me and then to bring the phone back to me, despite barriers of distance and language. Another arresting image is that of seemingly abandoned stalls, as shopkeepers would go for Friday prayers, with their wares still out until they returned. It speaks volumes of a society that is characterised by such mutual trust and cooperation.
Although the Northern Sudanese speak Arabic, there is also something distinctly African about them, an earthiness that is quite different from their co-linguists in the Gulf (where I grew up). And there were many other unexpected and  fascinating inter-cultural links I found.  Khartoum is probably the last place I would have expected to be introduced to the magic of Bob Marley, but people there are ardent fans of reggae music, evident in the amount of playtime it got on the referendum campaign trail. Even more unexpectedly, I encountered many Bollywood fans; in fact, the only thing that could displace reggae in the car stereo was Hindi love songs! Aside from politics, there were numerous heated discussions about that other most divisive of topics – football, with the English Premier League having some seriously keen followers. Finally, the fact that we were staying in a Chinese hotel (quite a bizarre experience) further underlined how Sudan is not as isolated as it may seem.
Though social lives in Khartoum tend to revolve around families and food, there were a multitude of other activities for us to indulge in. The Nile provided great opportunities for boating and fishing, its glimmering waters a perfect foil to the sandy bustling streets around it. I also attended two very different concerts – one by a drug-abusing pop sensation that inspired near-frenzy in an outdoor amphitheatre; the other by a group of young people performing powerful spoken word poetry in a tucked-away café whose owner acts as a patron of the (often alternative) arts in the city.
I had the most amazing food in Khartoum. There are many different restaurants in the city, serving everything from chicken tikka to red velvet cupcakes. But the most memorable things were definitely the local ones – the hot fluffy bread, balady, that we grabbed from the corner shop each morning; the platter of fried fish just caught from the Nile that afternoon; the packets of ta’miyya, crunchy falafel buttons; and the freshly squeezed juices available everywhere, with the guava packing quite a punch.
The community aspect and down-to-earth nature of Khartoum society can also be seen in the ubiquitous tea stalls in Khartoum, which serve small glasses of shockingly sugary though deliciously customised (mint for me!) tea and coffee. Whether alone on a street corner or grouped with others in something of an outdoor cafe, these tea stalls provided relaxation, revival as as well as opportunities for lively conversation, another memorable hallmark of Khartoum life.
My best food memories were those that also reflected uniquely Sudanese social experiences. We often lunched on ful, cooked and mashed fava beans with sesame oil poured and crumbly Sudanese cheese added on top, eaten with local bread, with a side of boiled eggs. Although served in smarter establishments, this staple meal is also sold by street vendors, and we would often sit on multi-coloured plastic crates, under the shade of a tree, chatting away as we happily dug into the communal bowl of ful.
Contrasting with the simple food was Souq Omdurman, a huge bazaar, a hub of commercial activity and a fantastic place to wander around, soaking up the sights and sounds in the different sections – clothes, shoes, knick-knacks, and also ground hibiscus, gazelle bone jewellery and black henna. However, even the enlivening energy here was no match for what we witnessed at a weekly outdoor gathering of Sufi whirling dervishes. Dancing in circles, stamping their feet rhythmically and chanting repeatedly, for hours, participants were in a spiritual trance, a uniquely expressive and communal custom among these Sudanese Muslims.
Despite Khartoum’s political uncertainties, the obvious poverty and marginalisation, it is ultimately the rich culture and incredible hospitality that left the most lasting impression on me. I was fortunate to be there for work that involved travelling all over the city, focusing on local dynamics and talking to a wide range of people – the best way to be a truly authentic visitor. Travel is always a learning experience, and this is perhaps especially profound in the places you least expect it.

At the end of 2010, I spent four weeks in the capital, Khartoum, working as a political observer for the US-based Carter Center, observing and reporting on preparations for the historic referendum, the unassailable results of which were announced in February and which will officially lead to the creation of the world’s newest country in July. Khartoum is in the North, where the prevailing sentiment was pro-unity, albeit with salient pro-separation pockets among Southerners living there. There was thus understandable anxiety in the capital about the impending fracture of the country, and trepidation about the potential for renewed violence after decades of civil war.

Khartoum itself is a hot, vibrant city, with such a mix of cultures and economies that it can be difficult to paint a cohesive picture. The blatant economic inequality that is the hallmark of much of the developing world takes on a particularly problematic character here as it often matches ethnic divisions. A half-hour drive from the grandiose Presidential Palace and the stunning Libyan-built 5-star Burj Al-Fateh hotel on the tree-lined Nile Road, are the sprawling, sandy, often bitter IDP camps populated by those who fled the fighting in the South during what is Africa’s longest civil war, as well as more recent entrants from Darfur.

The city is made up of three distinct areas, divided by the Niles and linked by impressively imposing bridges: Khartoum proper, the official and commerical downtown core;  Khartoum North, a more industrial part; and Omdurman, the cultural heartland. Khartoum is home to a particularly interesting geographic landmark – Al-Mogran, where the White Nile and the Blue Nile meet. Arab poets have called it the ‘the longest kiss in history’, and it is a wonderful symbol of confluence and harmony in a city where so much history and so many hopes so passionately collide.

The people that I met and worked with in Khartoum are some of the warmest and kindest I have had the fortune to come across. The Northern Sudanese culture is very clearly marked by such generosity and hospitality that it can be overwhelmingly heart-warming. This could especially be seen by the way people, even strangers, greet one another – with the warmest smiles, handshakes and hugs all around.

The Sudanese are also known for being very honest and trustworthy. I witnessed this first-hand when a random labourer who found my mobile phone when I dropped it somewhere, went out of his way to first contact me and then to bring the phone back to me, despite barriers of distance and language. Another arresting image is that of seemingly abandoned stalls, as shopkeepers would go for Friday prayers, with their wares still out until they returned. It speaks volumes of a society that is characterised by such mutual trust and cooperation.

Although the Northern Sudanese speak Arabic, there is also something distinctly African about them, an earthiness that is quite different from their co-linguists in the Gulf (where I grew up). And there were many other unexpected and  fascinating inter-cultural links I found.  Khartoum is probably the last place I would have expected to be introduced to the magic of Bob Marley, but people there are ardent fans of reggae music, evident in the amount of playtime it got on the referendum campaign trail. Even more unexpectedly, I encountered many Bollywood fans; in fact, the only thing that could displace reggae in the car stereo was Hindi love songs! Aside from politics, there were numerous heated discussions about that other most divisive of topics – football, with the English Premier League having some seriously keen followers. Finally, the fact that we were staying in a Chinese hotel (quite a bizarre experience) further underlined how Sudan is not as isolated as it may seem.

Though social lives in Khartoum tend to revolve around families and food, there were a multitude of other activities for us to indulge in. The Nile provided great opportunities for boating and fishing, its glimmering waters a perfect foil to the sandy bustling streets around it. I also attended two very different concerts – one by a drug-abusing pop sensation that inspired near-frenzy in an outdoor amphitheatre; the other by a group of young people performing powerful spoken word poetry in a tucked-away café whose owner acts as a patron of the (often alternative) arts in the city.

I had the most amazing food in Khartoum. There are many different restaurants in the city, serving everything from chicken tikka to red velvet cupcakes. But the most memorable things were definitely the local ones – the hot fluffy bread, balady, that we grabbed from the corner shop each morning; the platter of fried fish just caught from the Nile that afternoon; the packets of ta’miyya, crunchy falafel buttons; and the freshly squeezed juices available everywhere, with the guava packing quite a punch.

The community aspect and down-to-earth nature of Khartoum society can also be seen in the ubiquitous tea stalls in Khartoum, which serve small glasses of shockingly sugary though deliciously customised (mint for me!) tea and coffee. Whether alone on a street corner or grouped with others in something of an outdoor cafe, these tea stalls provided relaxation, revival as as well as opportunities for lively conversation, another memorable hallmark of Khartoum life.

My best food memories were those that also reflected uniquely Sudanese social experiences. We often lunched on ful, cooked and mashed fava beans with sesame oil poured and crumbly Sudanese cheese added on top, eaten with local bread, with a side of boiled eggs. Although served in smarter establishments, this staple meal is also sold by street vendors, and we would often sit on multi-coloured plastic crates, under the shade of a tree, chatting away as we happily dug into the communal bowl of ful.

Contrasting with the simple food was Souq Omdurman, a huge bazaar, a hub of commercial activity and a fantastic place to wander around, soaking up the sights and sounds in the different sections – clothes, shoes, knick-knacks, and also ground hibiscus, gazelle bone jewellery and black henna. However, even the enlivening energy here was no match for what we witnessed at a weekly outdoor gathering of Sufi whirling dervishes. Dancing in circles, stamping their feet rhythmically and chanting repeatedly, for hours, participants were in a spiritual trance, a uniquely expressive and communal custom among these Sudanese Muslims.

Despite Khartoum’s political uncertainties, the obvious poverty and marginalisation, it is ultimately the rich culture and incredible hospitality that left the most lasting impression on me. I was fortunate to be there for work that involved travelling all over the city, focusing on local dynamics and talking to a wide range of people – the best way to be a truly authentic visitor. Travel is always a learning experience, and this is perhaps especially profound in the places you least expect it.

Great Sexpectations: Volume Five

House party. Two words charged with maximum possible meaning. For the uninitiated, ‘house’ means ‘a room to have’ and ‘party’ means ‘sexytime’. Those readers with more conscience than most may ask– what about last week’s epiphanic moment with your best friend? Well, I would respond by saying that ‘epiphanic moment’ is far too pretentious for this humble column, and secondly, that since the ball there has been a severe communication breakdown. We said good night on her doorstep on ball night, and since then neither of us has spoken to the other. We’ve been reduced to awkward smiles as we pass in college. Perhaps this is a sign that the affair is too important for us to be flippant, or casual, about. Perhaps it shows regret starting to creep in to the memory. Either way, and as much as I think I have feelings for her, the show must go on. The whole point of this challenge is too break from paralysing relationship possibilities. It’s not reckless, it’s committed. It’s just healthy.

       
The music is blaring out, and everyone is huddled together in small groups to speak over it. The garden is open, and people are sprawled across the grass or lounging on the patio furniture. Bottles and cans litter the whole house, and to a sudden visitor, a thick smog would become apparent, hanging in the air from the breath of drunks. I’m talking to a second-year; it’s a second-year house party. It’s all going rather well; we’re exchanging little flirty touches as the conversation continues, from my hand resting on the edge of her skirt, to her turning to whisper in my ear. She goes to get a drink, and I follow her to grab bottles and then retire to a room partly forgotten at the back of the house, so it’s only us two around as we start to kiss. She kisses down my neck and I grab her shirt and pull her to me, my hands running underneath to her breasts. We part mouths, let tongues alone, and she leans over the sofa and finds the door with a key to lock it. She then leans in to distract me with another bout of kisses, taking her hands to my jeans and undoing the buttons, before slipping her hand inside. In one moment, she shifts off of my lap and alongside me on the sofa as I feel her start to move me up and down. We’re kissing wildly, gasping for breath, and minutes run like seconds until I can’t kiss properly anymore. She uses her mouth for the last charge, and then we rest, spent. Then we rejoin the party, anonymous and unconnected in the crowd. This is what I said I needed. A healthy donation of temporary passion, mutually given. Sexual ephemera. Readers, I’m getting closer.

House party. Two words charged with maximum possible meaning. For the uninitiated, ‘house’ means ‘a room to have’ and ‘party’ means ‘sexytime’. Those readers with more conscience than most may ask– what about last week’s epiphanic moment with your best friend? Well, I would respond by saying that ‘epiphanic moment’ is far too pretentious for this humble column, and secondly, that since the ball there has been a severe communication breakdown.

We said good night on her doorstep on ball night, and since then neither of us has spoken to the other. We’ve been reduced to awkward smiles as we pass in college. Perhaps this is a sign that the affair is too important for us to be flippant, or casual, about. Perhaps it shows regret starting to creep in to the memory. Either way, and as much as I think I have feelings for her, the show must go on. The whole point of this challenge is to break from paralysing relationship possibilities. It’s not reckless, it’s committed. It’s just healthy.       

The music is blaring out, and everyone is huddled together in small groups to speak over it. The garden is open, and people are sprawled across the grass or lounging on the patio furniture. Bottles and cans litter the whole house, and to a sudden visitor, a thick smog would become apparent, hanging in the air from the breath of drunks.

I’m talking to a second-year; it’s a second-year house party. It’s all going rather well; we’re exchanging little flirty touches as the conversation continues, from my hand resting on the edge of her skirt, to her turning to whisper in my ear. She goes to get a drink, and I follow her to grab bottles and then retire to a room partly forgotten at the back of the house, so it’s only the two of us around as we start to kiss.

She kisses down my neck and I grab her shirt and pull her to me, my hands running underneath to her breasts. We part mouths, let tongues alone, and she leans over the sofa and finds the door with a key to lock it. She then leans in to distract me with another bout of kisses, taking her hands to my jeans and undoing the buttons, before slipping her hand inside. In one moment, she shifts off of my lap and alongside me on the sofa as I feel her start to move me up and down. We’re kissing wildly, gasping for breath, and minutes run like seconds until I can’t kiss properly anymore. She uses her mouth for the last charge, and then we rest, spent. Then we rejoin the party, anonymous and unconnected in the crowd. This is what I said I needed. A healthy donation of temporary passion, mutually given. Sexual ephemera. Readers, I’m getting closer.

Dom and dumber

0

I have a traffic light system – green means I can do what I want, orange means they’re slightly smarter but I can probably get them, and red means just released from Broadmoor – move away!’ Hearing Dom Joly describing how he decides whether or not to prank his victims is listening to a master deconstruct his craft – the man, for many, is the original prankster. His show, Trigger Happy TV, spanned two seasons and two specials, has been sold to over seventy countries, and even the soundtrack was a bestseller. However, Joly explains the original idea was to make a political satire show.

 have a traffic light system – green means I can do what I want, orange means they’re slightly smarter but I can probably get them, and red means just released from Broadmoor – move away!’ Hearing Dom Joly describing how he decides whether or not to prank his victims is listening to a master deconstruct his craft – the man, for many, is the original prankster. His show, Trigger Happy TV, spanned two seasons and two specials, has been sold to over seventy countries, and even the soundtrack was a bestseller. However, Joly explains the original idea was to make a political satire show.
‘[Trigger Happy] would have been an attack on Cool Britannia, but the woman who was the commissioning editor had just finished doing Brass Eye and basically just couldn’t face any more legal stuff and she just said can you make a really simple show – I don’t want anymore lawyers ringing me up. And actually it was a blessing in disguise because if I’d made the satirical show, it might have been good, but it wouldn’t have got such a wide audience, I don’t think.’
Indeed, it’s hard to imagine an intelligent, pithy political satire on the BBC gaining the worldwide recognition that THTV did – typical sketches include Joly in the role of a park-keeper, accusing elderly park goers of misdemeanours from setting of fireworks to pushing people in the pond, or dressed as a traffic warden, ticketing motorists stopped at traffic lights for illegally parking on double yellows. That said, surely some of the socio-political commentary planned for the political satire influenced a show which was, more than a prank show, an observation of Britishness, a facet echoed in its handpicked indie rock soundtrack? No, apparently; ‘I hate things trying to make a point, trying to teach you something – the stuff I make is pointless’. Fair enough. But perhaps the question is really, how did a man now famed for pranking, travel writing and a not-all-that-brief spell in the Celebrity Jungle come to be writing a political satire show in the first place?
After graduating in Politics, Joly first interned for the European Commission as a diplomat in Prague, before returning to the UK to do political television around Westminster. After 6 years of working as a political researcher for ITN, New Statesman and others, he landed a job as the political researcher on the Mark Thomas Comedy Product – a blend of surreal stunts and political journalism that was both satirical and insightful in equal measures in a pre-Brass Eye time. After being asked if he wanted to ‘drive a tank through the McDonald’s Drive Thru’ – ‘yeah, course’ – he started to get into comedy, and in his own words, ‘I haven’t really done a day’s work since then’.
Looking at a run-down of Joly’s activities since then, it would be hard to agree with this. Besides continued pranking, in World Shut Your Mouth and The Complainers, Joly has written three books, stood in the 1997 general election (for the Teddy Bear Alliance), produced a number of television shows including the well-received Dom Joly’s Happy Hour, came fourth in I’m A Celebrity, and somehow found time to write columns for The Independent, The Mail on Sunday and The Sunday Times. Now he’s off on a live tour, because, quite simply, he’d never done it before.
‘Everyone always assumed that I’d done stand up before Trigger Happy, and [the fact that I hadn’t] used to really bug me. When I did my book and I took it to literary festivals, they just expected me to stand there and read it, which struck me as really dull, so I started, you know, showing my holiday snaps, and stuff, and I really enjoyed it, so I thought fine, I’ll do it bigger.’ The light nature of the show doesn’t stop there – the audience can buy rocks from the foyer to throw at Joly while he performs (presumably not real ones), and during the interval a book is left out for questions from the audience, which Joly answers in the second half of the show. In typical Joly style, the ten tour dates have now become a full seventy, from Berwick to Brighton. So far there haven’t been any instances of mistaken location, despite the confusing fact that, ‘for some reason Warwick University is in Coventry, so I almost said hello to the wrong people… Oxford’s easier’.
Whilst half of my friends knew Dom as ‘that guy who did the stuff with the big phone’, the other half knew him as ‘that guy who does travel columns for The Times,’ and as he admits, Joly has a certain fixation with travel.
‘I’m obsessed with it – I have wanderlust’. The weird offspring of this love of travel, a penchant for a drink or two, and a keenness to ‘take the piss out of Long Way Round’ was Dom Joly’s Happy Hour, in which Joly and his de rigueur ‘idiot friend’ Peter Wilkins explored drinking cultures around the world in a gloriously irreverent spoof on the traditional travel show. When they weren’t drunk (which wasn’t very much of the time), Joly and Wilkins goofed around in what was a mostly improvised show. The most recent equivalent is probably Team Gervais’ An Idiot Abroad (also on Sky One), though Joly is not a fan. ‘I thought it was appalling,’ he said, very matter-of-factly, ‘I quite like Karl Pilkington, and I think he’s funny, but it was just one joke – the bloke doesn’t like going abroad.’
When asked what he thought on recent pranking shows such as Facejacker, Balls of Steel and Olivia Lee, Joly revealed that he doesn’t really watch other comedy shows – ‘I find British comedy a bit dull. I watch Curb Your Enthusiasm and because I’m on tour I’ve got about a thousand Seinfelds.’ I pressed him – surely he must have seen something recently (my extensive iPlayer knowledge, which before had seemed so useful, was suddenly looking like a poor investment).  ‘Just recently there’s been some stuff I’ve liked; Campus and Twenty-Twelve,’ he conceded, ‘but I certainly don’t want to watch stuff similar to what I do – either it’s really good and it makes me angry or it’s really bad and it makes me angry.’
He was however, an avid fan of I’m a Celebrity, and jumped at the chance to be on the show last year. ‘Everyone said I shouldn’t do it, and I just thought, ‘I love that show – I’m going to do it’, and I really enjoyed it.’ That said, he found it a lot more ‘hardcore’ than he’d expected; ‘It’s as close as you can get to a hostage situation – you don’t speak to anyone, you’re very reliant on your captors, you get fed tiny amounts, and the boredom is insane. And you’ve just got to deal with it.’
The pop-culture kick didn’t stop at Celebrity – Joly is now a full-time Twitter user, with over 80 thousand followers, with whom he interacts on an hourly basis. He answers questions (with brutal brevity, mind), replies to those who insult him (which is better than Giles Coren, who simply blocked me when I offered a less than favourable review of a video of his), and even runs mini-competitions for his followers to win free tickets to his live show. More than that, he loves its practicality on a global level. ‘When I travel it’s incredible – if I’m in Phnom Penh or somewhere I just say ‘I’m in Phnom Penh ’ and people tell me where to go and so on – I love it.’
After the tour, a hard earned break is in store, before a return to what is an increasingly packed schedule for Joly – round the world in a week for I Newspaper, a television show for ITV, starting work on his new book Scary Monsters and Super Creeps, in which he’ll be looking for mythical beasts in the Congo, and then getting onto the long awaited Trigger Happy film that fans have been waiting on for years now. ‘People are saying it’s the Trigger Happy movie – it’s not,’ Dom insists, ‘It’s the people who made Trigger Happy (Joly and his cameraman Sam Cadman) and it’s hidden camera but it’s got none of the characters. It’s on a huge scale, so I’m calling it the Ben Hur of hidden camera movies.’
With so much work in so many areas, both in the past and in the immediate future, does Joly feel there is a lack of direction to his career? ‘I’m a completely confused idiot – I have no career plans whatsoever, and I’ve just sort of muddled my way through. I guess I get bored really easily […] I normally don’t know what I’m going to do, so when something interesting comes in I can say yes. I just love doing different things – I’ve blagged ten years of doing nothing, pretty much.’ From where I’m standing, far from lacking direction, Dom Joly’s career has one only clear bearing, and that’s up.
Dom is appearing at the Glee Club on the 17th July

‘[Trigger Happy] would have been an attack on Cool Britannia, but the woman who was the commissioning editor had just finished doing Brass Eye and basically just couldn’t face any more legal stuff and she just said can you make a really simple show – I don’t want anymore lawyers ringing me up. And actually it was a blessing in disguise because if I’d made the satirical show, it might have been good, but it wouldn’t have got such a wide audience, I don’t think.

’Indeed, it’s hard to imagine an intelligent, pithy political satire on the BBC gaining the worldwide recognition that THTV did – typical sketches include Joly in the role of a park keeper, accusing elderly park goers of misdemeanours from setting of fireworks to pushing people in the pond, or dressed as a traffic warden, ticketing motorists stopped at traffic lights for illegally parking on double yellows. That said, surely some of the socio-political commentary planned for the political satire influenced a show which was, more than a prank show, an observation of Britishness, a facet echoed in its handpicked indie rock soundtrack? No, apparently; ‘I hate things trying to make a point, trying to teach you something – the stuff I make is pointless’. Fair enough. But perhaps the question is really, how did a man now famed for pranking, travel writing and a not-all-that-brief spell in the Celebrity Jungle come to be writing a political satire show in the first place?

After graduating in Politics, Joly first interned for the European Commission as a diplomat in Prague, before returning to the UK to do political television around Westminster. After 6 years of working as a political researcher for ITN, New Statesman and others, he landed a job as the political researcher on the Mark Thomas Comedy Product – a blend of surreal stunts and political journalism that was both satirical and insightful in equal measures in a pre-Brass Eye time. After being asked if he wanted to ‘drive a tank through the McDonald’s Drive Thru’ – ‘yeah, course’ – he started to get into comedy, and in his own words, ‘I haven’t really done a day’s work since then’.

Looking at a rundown of Joly’s activities since then, it would be hard to agree with this. Besides pranking, in World Shut Your Mouth and The Complainers, Joly has written three books, stood in the 1997 general election (for the Teddy Bear Alliance), produced a number of television shows including the well-received Dom Joly’s Happy Hour, came fourth in I’m A Celebrity, and somehow found time to write columns for The Independent, The Mail on Sunday and The Sunday Times. Now he’s off on a live tour, because, quite simply, he’d never done it before.‘Everyone always assumed that I’d done stand up before Trigger Happy, and [the fact that I hadn’t] used to really bug me.

When I did my book and I took it to literary festivals, they just expected me to stand there and read it, which struck me as really dull, so I started, you know, showing my holiday snaps, and stuff, and I really enjoyed it, so I thought fine, I’ll do it bigger.’ The light nature of the show doesn’t stop there – the audience can buy rocks from the foyer to throw at Joly while he performs (presumably not real ones), and during the interval a book is left out for questions from the audience, which Joly answers in the second half of the show. In typical Joly style, the ten tour dates have now become a full seventy, from Berwick to Brighton. So far there haven’t been any instances of mistaken location, despite the confusing fact that, ‘for some reason Warwick University is in Coventry, so I almost said hello to the wrong people… Oxford’s easier’.

Whilst half of my friends knew Dom as ‘that guy who did the stuff with the big phone’, the other half knew him as ‘that guy who does travel columns for The Times,’ and as he admits, Joly has a certain fixation with travel.

‘I’m obsessed with it – I have wanderlust’. The weird offspring of this love of travel, a penchant for a drink or two, and a keenness to ‘take the piss out of Long Way Round’ was Dom Joly’s Happy Hour, in which Joly and his de rigueur ‘idiot friend’ Peter Wilkins explored drinking cultures around the world in a gloriously irreverent spoof on the traditional travel show. When they weren’t drunk (which wasn’t very much of the time), Joly and Wilkins goofed around in what was a mostly improvised show. The most recent equivalent is probably Team Gervais’ An Idiot Abroad (also on Sky One), though Joly is not a fan. ‘I thought it was appalling,’ he said, very matter-of-factly, ‘I quite like Karl Pilkington, and I think he’s funny, but it was just one joke – the bloke doesn’t like going abroad.’

When asked what he thought on recent pranking shows such as Facejacker, Balls of Steel and Olivia Lee, Joly revealed that he doesn’t really watch other comedy shows – ‘I find British comedy a bit dull. I watch Curb Your Enthusiasm and because I’m on tour I’ve got about a thousand Seinfelds.’ I pressed him – surely he must have seen something recently (my extensive iPlayer knowledge, which before had seemed so useful, was suddenly looking like a poor investment).  ‘Just recently there’s been some stuff I’ve liked; Campus and Twenty-Twelve,’ he conceded, ‘but I certainly don’t want to watch stuff similar to what I do – either it’s really good and it makes me angry or it’s really bad and it makes me angry.’

He was however, an avid fan of I’m a Celebrity, and jumped at the chance to be on the show last year. ‘Everyone said I shouldn’t do it, and I just thought, ‘I love that show – I’m going to do it’, and I really enjoyed it.’ That said, he found it a lot more ‘hardcore’ than he’d expected; ‘It’s as close as you can get to a hostage situation – you don’t speak to anyone, you’re very reliant on your captors, you get fed tiny amounts, and the boredom is insane. And you’ve just got to deal with it.’

The pop-culture kick didn’t stop at Celebrity – Joly is now a full-time Twitter user, with over 80 thousand followers, with whom he interacts on an hourly basis. He answers questions (with brutal brevity, mind), replies to those who insult him (which is better than Giles Coren, who simply blocked me when I offered a less than favourable review of a video of his), and even runs mini-competitions for his followers to win free tickets to his live show. More than that, he loves its practicality on a global level. ‘When I travel it’s incredible – if I’m in Phnom Penh or somewhere I just say ‘I’m in Phnom Penh ’ and people tell me where to go and so on – I love it.’

After the tour, a hard earned break is in store, before a return to what is an increasingly packed schedule for Joly – round the world in a week for I Newspaper, a television show for ITV, starting work on his new book Scary Monsters and Super Creeps, in which he’ll be looking for mythical beasts in the Congo, and then getting onto the long awaited Trigger Happy film that fans have been waiting on for years now. ‘People are saying it’s the Trigger Happy movie – it’s not,’ Dom insists, ‘It’s the people who made Trigger Happy (Joly and his cameraman Sam Cadman) and it’s hidden camera but it’s got none of the characters. It’s on a huge scale, so I’m calling it the Ben Hur of hidden camera movies.

’With so much work in so many areas, both in the past and in the immediate future, does Joly feel there is a lack of direction to his career? ‘I’m a completely confused idiot – I have no career plans whatsoever, and I’ve just sort of muddled my way through. I guess I get bored really easily […] I normally don’t know what I’m going to do, so when something interesting comes in I can say yes. I just love doing different things – I’ve blagged ten years of doing nothing, pretty much.’ From where I’m standing, far from lacking direction, Dom Joly’s career has one only clear bearing, and that’s up.

 

Dom is appearing at the Glee Club on the 17th July