Saturday 7th June 2025
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Under the Covers

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It is one of those days, when nothing – not even the phone – works, but David Pearson, award-winning Penguin designer, is blessedly kind and obliging. As a junior designer he had the fortune of being selected for an experiment: a series of books to be called Great Ideas which would publish sections of larger works (like St. Augustine’s Confessions) in an inexpensive throwback to the days of pamphleteering. To everyone’s surprise, the Penguin Great Ideas series have been bestsellers, making the works of Marcus Aurelius, Rousseau, Marx, Woolf, and Sartre affordable and undeniably cool.

It was fate: as a child, Pearson occupied himself by playing with and rearranging the contents of his parents’ box of colour-coded Penguin paperbacks. The designer also shares my personal preference for print (the correct and moral preference). Books, he said, are unashamedly beautiful, tactile and tangible.

Pearson studied general graphic design at St. Martin’s College, London, specializing in typography. With his admiration of Penguin ever in mind, he kept an eye on their webpage for job postings, breaking in with the junior design position which led, two years later, to the Great Ideas gig.

Though most designers tend to prefer working with big name living authors, where they can expect high marketing and the establishment of a name or partnership, the Great Ideas was a publishing experiment in the manner of Penguin founder Allen Lane’s original vision of cheap, well-designed books. And, given the project’s experimental nature, there was a greater degree of independence for its designers.

A typical design meeting consists of the heads of each major department of a publishing company, each head laying claim to the finished product’s authorship. The response to the first Great Ideas series’ design was both approving and uneasy. The predominance of white covers (a no-go for advertisers) and lack of Penguin logos prompted Stefan McGrath, Penguin Press’s Managing Director, to admit that though there were faults, if the designers changed one thing, they’d have to change all of it, and he regretted to lose the designs’ visual confidence.

So, in a radical move, all covers were approved in toto. (Remembering this watershed moment makes Pearson a little emotional even now.) Seven or eight years down the line, Penguin’s Great Ideas has gone on to make five series. Pearson sees the first two – red and blue – as delicately considered and safe, becoming more confidant as the series developed into the green, gold, and purple incarnations.

Surprisingly, Pearson informs me, the world of book design is incredibly small. If you’re lucky enough to break in, you’re in. Unlike the popular competitive and cut-throat world of music design, book design is an ‘industry of hobbyists’. But alas, publishing is not the breezy industry it used to be. The book business as a whole is still anxious about the inevitable effect of e-readers on the market.

Pearson’s own prediction is that cheaper paperbacks will continue to fall away, and we should see publishers producing once-off editions to ‘flag up the physical book’. Eventually, he suggests, both mediums – print and digital – will be published side by side. Though Pearson is from the first generation of designers to have always worked on a Mac, ten years later he’s trying to find ways of getting away from it and back to tangible design.

Pearson’s design heroes come (no surprise!) from the Penguin annals: the work of the typographers Jan Tschichold and Hans Schmoller – ‘fastidious, elegant, balanced, timeless’ – and the dynamic designs of the 60s and 70s by Derek Birdsall and David Pelham. When I expressed my admiration for the boxes of postcards Penguin released last year and the wonderful range of design, Pearson said the magic words: ‘it was just a small snippet from the archives…’

Judged By Its Cover: The Yellow Wallpaper

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I saw this book’s cover before knowing what Charlotte Perkins Gilman’s The Yellow Wallpaper was about and thought it was quite mundane and just a little bit ugly. After picking it up later and actually bothering to read it, I saw it in a different way.

Once you know the nature of this short story – a collection of journal entries written by a woman confined to her bedroom by her husband, and in a state of nervous depression that leads to psychosis and a paranoid obsession with the wallpaper – the staid print now conjures up her sense of fear and entrapment.

Oppressively intricate and sickly yellow, even the whirlpool swirl in the bottom left threatens to draw one in – just as the narrator comes to believe that she has been imprisoned in the wallpaper by the end of the book.

I now find that this cover draws its strength from both its mundanity and its heavily detailed and insipid ugliness. The first seems to reflect the suffocating boredom prescribed to her as a treatment which only leads her deeper into depression, and the second, with the layering and twists and turns of the pattern, seems to relate to the irrational thought processes which confuse and come to gain control over her mind.

Judged By Its Cover: Beloved

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The use of silhouette foregrounds the ideas of racial distinction and identity which Toni Morrison consistently explores: white is separated from black as society demanded both in the novel’s setting of 1850s America and for a considerable period of the author’s life. However, the fact that the silhouette is not entirely monochromatic belies further artistic consideration. The crimson marks on the child’s face refer to the central event within the novel – the mother (Sethe) murdering her own child (Beloved) – and the white discolouration on the mother figure may imply her motivation to commit such a tragic act. The novel is based on the true story of fugitive slave Margaret Garner and explores how the atrocities committed by the white plantation owners of ‘Sweet Home’ convince Sethe to murder her own child rather than be made to suffer herself. This white discolouration of the silhouette thus shows that Sethe is not solely culpable for her act, but that her experiences have driven her to infanticide – just as when she is called an ‘animal’, it is clear that only the animalistic tortures she has endured have made her an instinctive creature. Morrison’s exploration of the guilt Sethe feels for destroying her own ‘best self’ is reflected in this cover art as the novel’s title – the name of the murdered child – springs from and is connected to Sethe’s mind.

The cover becomes a total reversal of the idea of the colour white as indicative of ‘good’ and black of ‘evil’. Whilst Sethe is never able to escape her guilt, here ‘white’ is free of such a sense of moral culpability. The influence of white atrocities appears as an indelible stain on her moral purity and figure.

Judged By Its Cover: Luchford

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Between blades of grass we lie watching, waiting on the ground in the middle of a clearing; the smoky mist creeps towards us as we peer over a woman’s legs like an animal inspecting its prey. The woman lies listlessly, her body cropped out of the picture. She is anonymous, identified only by the straps of her red leather shoes, her pale skin and the petrol blue of her silk skirt that has been hitched up over her knees. Thrust against the picture plane, our relationship with this unidentified body is intimate: she is the object of our gaze, and perhaps the victim too. Are we lying with her? Or do we crouch over her? The image is pervaded by a sense of mystery almost like a still from a film noir. With whispers of violence and murder, we immediately get a sense of narrative, underpinned by an eroticism emphasised by the fetishistic focus on her red shoes.

This photograph is taken from the Prada Autumn/Winter 1997 campaign and is the front cover of the newly published Steidldangin catalogue of Glen Luchford’s work. Luchford uses the camera here as a peeping device, almost cinematic in his approach whereby the viewer is dramatically involved in the narrative of his work. Blown up, the image’s murkiness seems to permeate our own space, pulling us into the photograph. The thick white band across the top of the cover, emblazoned with the artist’s name in bold black letters, stamps the image with a tag of reality. This is an image of an image: an enticement not for the viewer but the buyer, calling to be picked up, purchased and placed upon a coffee table. Ultimately its promise of mystery and drama makes it the perfect picture to represent this seminal collection of Luchford’s images, a tantalising tease of what lies behind the cover.

Judged By Its Cover: Kafka

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The three cover illustrations of the 2009 Oxford World’s Classics editions of Franz Kafka’s The Metamorphosis and other stories, The Trial and The Castle are taken from Kafka’s own doodles in his lecture notes. They show, respectively, stick figures sitting in a dejected pose, collapsed at a desk, and standing enclosed on three sides by a sort of fence.

These images reflect a running feature of Kafka’s fiction: his protagonists are trapped within an absurd situation which they are unable either to improve or break out of. It is particularly fitting that in the illustration for The Castle the figure is only trapped on three sides – he can escape, just as K could physically leave the town, but K either chooses to or is passively restricted by its inescapable bureaucratic processes.

However, the sense of despair in these images is a little misleading. This is caused not only by the poses of the figures themselves, but also the covers’ brightly coloured backgrounds, which almost overwhelm the simple black lines of Kafka’s doodles. Perhaps Gregor of Metamorphosis is less active, but both K and Joseph K. of The Trial spend the entire novel resisting the sort of existential hopelessness that the reader experiences on their behalf. We continuously expect the strange events and unfamiliar surroundings of these two novels to overcome the characters, and in the case of The Trial this does eventually happen, but their constant striving for meaning and purpose goes directly against the emotions expressed by these defeated stick figures.

The choice of these doodles illustrating the works is laudable. They give an insight into Kafka’s mentality of fear and hopelessness – perhaps emotions provoked by lectures? Fancy that! – which, although often counteracted by the characters in his fiction, nevertheless permeates all his writing.

Street Style: The Oxford Way

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Emmie Stevens, New College. (Photo by Grace Goddard)

Colour is something Emmie is clearly not afraid of; from those brilliant burgundy boots to the pop of purple from her gloves, she’s clearly not afraid to experiment. The neutral navy, grey and tan base colours keep the look sophisticated.

What do you think of Emmie’s look?

Diary of a Cherwell Girl

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In the spirit of this week’s affordable fashion theme, and the rate at which my student loan is disappearing, I’ve decided to take a look at the fashion obsession du jour. High-street designer collaborations and designer diffusion lines have become ever more popular since the high priestess of fashion herself, (yes I mean Kate Moss not Gok Wan), whipped out her pencil for Topshop. Unaware of the extent of her powers, Ms Moss’ design debut incurred dramatic scenes on 24 hour news channels showing screaming fans breaking doors down in frenzied riots. Far from the days of Lilly Allen’s ill-advised collection for New Look; Lily’s BC (Before Chanel) prom dress ‘n’ trainer look; celebrity and designer collections have become a serious business. For the celebrity or international designer, allowing all us little people to aspire to such high fashion stakes, it’s a little bit like donating to charity.

While Kate Moss is no longer designing lines for Topshop there have been plenty of designers willing to swoop in on this so apparently profitable venture. The new Lanvin for H & M collection is full of oh so fabulous party dresses – big billowing ruffles on block colours. My two favourite pieces are a black netted meshy blouse and a beautifully tailored double breasted women’s dinner jacket – androgynous sub fusc anyone? The other collaboration catching the attention of the fashion pack is Emma Watson’s collection for the fair trade brand People Tree which she modelled and ‘collaborated’ on. It’s full of dreamy floral dresses, slouchy t shirts and checked shirts in the brand’s ethically sourced fabrics. Apparently set for world domination, Emma Watson is also working on an organic clothing range for Alberta Ferretti which may be mildly less affordable given the given the rather large price tag normally attached to her whimsical dreamy creations. This season Christian Lacroix is also set to design a capsule collection for Spanish high street shop Desigual for the well-travelled amongst you.

Yet, despite the obvious draw of buying designer clothes without having to foray into your overdraft, shopping designer–high street collaborations still contain their own risk. For one thing, just because it’s designer it does not necessarily mean it suits you or that it’s a bargain. The big plus of designer items in high street shops is that they are generally far better cut than most high street clothes but in a collaboration line garments are not likely to be made out of designer fabrics. Buying designer clothes in a high street shop is a great way to explore edgier and more distinct fashion – and you won’t be kicking yourself if someone spills your drink down it in Park End.

Item of the week: This gorgeous red playsuit is perfect for transitional dressing in between seasons. Wear with woolly tights and knee-length riding boots now and bare legs, sandals and straw hat when the sun comes out. Check it out
here..

Blog of the week: So fashion it barely mentions clothes. This anonymous blog from Elle’s fashion insider is a whirlwind of sending assistants for coffee; organising fashion week wardrobes; and ending up in foreign countries after wild nights out. Find it
here..

Magazine of the week: Grazia. Grazia satisfies that perfect spot between trashy celeb stories and high end fashion making it the perfect disposable weekly mag for fast moving fashionistas who don’t want to spend hours interpreting arty fashion shoots…

Who’s On First? (Meets the President. Or Prime Minister.)

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Walking out of the Odeon last weekend after an evening showing of The King’s Speech, I felt as if the film had definitely lived up to my expectations. After reading many reviews and hearing all the Oscar buzz, I was prepared for a letdown, but the film certainly fulfilled the hype.

 

My friends and I were discussing some of the actors later on that evening, and eventually our conversation drifted on to which parts were based in reality and which had been slightly fictionalized (with several other historians in the group, you can imagine this happens quite often!) Further on, it was agreed by all that George VI was unquestionably viewed as a powerful figurehead during World War II, a leader who really did shepherd Britain through the conflict over the radio.

 

At one point, someone asked me who had filled a similar role in the United States at that time; I replied, of course, that it was President Roosevelt, whose fireside chats throughout the Depression and the war have become legend over time. A bit confused, they then inquired as to whether the President was also the head of state in my homeland – a question that shocked me at first.

 

As a speaker of the American tongue, it’s natural for me to think of the leader of a nation and its head of state as one entity. Of course, on this side of the Atlantic the Queen is head of state, and Prime Minister entirely separate. But in other countries as well, there is often a combination of people who constitute the heads of government and heads of state; some have both a Prime Minister and a President.

 

So as I have many times before, I’ve begun to see that there is no right way to do this sort of thing. Growing up in America, the notion of having a queen was appealing, because of course many stories for small children, like the one told by Colin Firth as King George VI to his daughters in the film, revolve around princesses and handsome princes, or kings and queens. But I also remember being told that any girl or boy in an elementary school classroom could grow up and become the President. And that’s certainly something we can aspire to – especially seeing as no little girl in the United States is ever going to grow up to be the Queen.

 

Oxford student rent among most expensive in Britain

Oxford students face some of the largest living costs of any in the country, a survey has shown. The average rent paid by an Oxford undergraduate in 2010 was £106 per week according to an independent guide to universities, Push.co.uk.

Students at Cardiff University pay almost half the amount for their accommodation as students in Oxford.

A University spokesperson defended accommodation fees in Oxford. She said, “The overall average for all Colleges comes to an average rent of £119 per week so the accommodation charges are considerably lower than in the private housing sector in Oxford.

“Terms are short at Oxford, which makes accommodation costs over the entire degree less than at many universities.”

The disparity between the accommodation charges at different colleges has also caused alarm among students. Some students have been asking the University to justify the fact that students at different colleges to pay such different rates.

At Brasenose, students can chose to pay approximately £2,174 in their first year for accomodation, whilst at Trinity College students pay over £3,600.

Both the University and OUSU responded by pointing out that a lot of college accommodation is heavily subsidised.

The discrepancy between accomodation costs among colleges can be partially be attributed to the fact that battels vary enormously in composition from college to college. Some battels include ‘facilities charges’ of over £200, whilst others ask for room deposits.

Trinity College JCR President, Charlotte Meara, said, “It is important to note that other services are included in this charge and the JCR has chosen to retain a system of equality with regard to rent. We are always working with college to make sure that the JCR gets good value for what are comparatively higher accommodation costs.”

Trinity’s Domestic Bursar, John Keeling, denied that high accommodation costs might deter students from applying.
He said, “Our charges do not appear to be deterring potential applicants from applying as we had about 18% more applications for 2011 vis a vis 2010. And of the successful applicants 3% more than last year came from maintained schools.”

St Hugh’s students are also subject to large accommodation costs relative to other colleges. This is mainly due to the base rate accommodation charge of £1,123 per term.

First year student, Kirsty Flanagan, suggested why the St Hugh’s fees were so large. She said, “St Hugh’s is set in large grounds and so the gardens’ upkeep probably makes our rent more than that of smaller colleges. The comparison that matters is not with another college’s accommodation but with another student at St Hugh’s who will pay the same but may very possibly have a much better room.”

OUSU President, David Barclay, said, “Although the cost of living in the city is higher than other parts of the country, some college accommodation in Oxford is widely regarded as amongst the cheapest university accommodation in the UK, and many colleges heavily subsidise their accommodation for students.”

Despite this, students in some colleges are paying over £1,000 more per year than at other colleges for the most basic accommodation that their colleges provide.

The OUSU President acknowledged that battels were not standardised across the university and that this could lead to confusion.

He said, “Inequalities between colleges need to be looked at not just in terms of accommodation charges but as a whole in terms of compulsory charges, which in some colleges includes kitchen charges, gym charges, food charges etc. It is true that such inequalities do exist, and under the new fees system I think it is only fair that students should have all of that information available to them.”

A University spokesperson pointed out that fees were set by individual colleges rather than the University.

She said, “Individual colleges determine the levels at which they set their rents and charge students for food and other living costs, including the timeframe over which any changes are implemented.

They are set on the basis of discussions between Governing Bodies and student representatives of that college.”

She went on to say, “College accommodation includes features rarely found in private rented accommodation, such as IT provision, security, insurance cover, access to onsite subsidised catering and emergency assistance for students needing emotional support or healthcare.”

Both David Barclay and Alex Bulfin, OUSU VP for Access and Academic Affairs, pointed out that bursaries and funds were available to students who were not able to meet the financial demands of Oxford.

Barclay said, “We are currently working with the University and colleges to ensure that we have a rigorous bursary system in place for those who need it and that it is able to cope with any variety in college costs.”

“The University recognises that no matter what financial background a student is from or what college they attend, all students must be able to afford to live during their time here in Oxford, and OUSU will continue to work with them on this important area of policy.”

A University spokesperson added, “The ‘Oxford Opportunity Bursary’ is one of the most generous in the country: the maximum bursary is £3,225 per year, plus an £875 top-up in the first year for starting costs.

“About a quarter of undergraduate students currently hold Oxford Opportunity Bursaries, which will mean the total spend on bursaries for the year will be £1.86 million.”

Review: Stop Making Sense

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Think of everything you might want in a good concert film. Good music, obviously. For it to work cinematically and aesthetically, (or else why make it a film?). And seeing people enjoying themselves on stage. Well, Stop Making Sense has them all. Directed by Jonathan Demme, who later won a truckload of Oscars for Silence of the Lambs, Talking Heads transcend the usual constraints of the genre to create the greatest concert film ever made.
Rarely has a concert film had such a sense of drama; from the opening credits, composed mainly of shadows, moving into the first song, as David Byrne plays ‘Psycho Killer’ with only an acoustic guitar and some taped beats, into the rest of the gig. Each song he is joined by another member, until finally the band has a full complement for ‘Burning Down The House’. Crowd shots are kept to a minimum, and the stage gear is made as discreet as possible. The character of each song makes it seem as if the film has a plot, and the lighting and cinematography really brings this out, perhaps most strikingly in ‘Once In A Lifetime’, which eschews traditional concert film methods for striking monochrome and one single camera shot.
All this sounds a little pretentious, but, for a band with clear art-school sensibilities, it’s amazing how much fun it is to watch. Often the aesthetic concepts which underpin the film transmit themselves to the viewer in the shape of a running-man dance, or a love-song sang to a lampshade, or a comically large suit.
The performers themselves also seem to be enjoying themselves hugely. Given how acrimonious the band’s split was, it sometimes seems incredible that they could ever have formed a functioning band, let alone one who could enjoy themselves in each other’s company (for proof of this, YouTube their heartbreakingly strained Hall of Fame Induction performance from 2002). But the genius of the film is how infectious the performers’ enjoyment is.
Oh, and the music’s all right too.