Saturday, April 26, 2025
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Kings of Leon at Hyde Park

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Every band has to make sacrifices to make a career out of their music, but Kings of Leon’s story is perhaps more arduous than most. Living out of an ’88 Oldsmobile throughout a nomadic, itinerant youth; firing up a southern-rock group with your two brothers; pilfering your cousin from the very bosom of his Mississippi home and making him play bass, just to appease the stipulations of your record company. Fast-forward eleven years, and if your band, forged in such humble beginnings, was playing to sixty-five thousand revellers in London’s Hyde Park, what would your reaction be?

The final note of ‘Black Thumbnail’ has just rung out, and as his fellow band-members saunter off stage, Caleb Followill lingers behind, soaking up every last second of the scene before him. It’s just past ten, and a crimson sun is setting behind a rapt audience, his audience, every mouth screaming and every pair of hands clapping for his band.

The Kings played not only the headliner role, but also that of party organisers for their Hyde Park show. Yet despite a plethora of talented, upbeat sets from the likes of The Drums and The Black Keys, it was a relatively tepid atmosphere not in keeping with the stifling Wednesday heat which greeted the late afternoon warm-up acts.

Yet the semi-apathetic throng becomes a baying horde as KOL emerge from behind what appears to be a wall of crushed cars, before launching into the bass-laden ebb of ‘Crawl’. Caleb, sporting a Springsteen-esque light-blue denim jacket with an extravagant American flag on the back, then proceeds to creakily bleat out ‘Taper Jean Girl’ and ‘My Party’.

The Kings could perhaps be criticised for sticking to their most recognisable material, as a ravaging rendition of ‘Molly’s Chambers’ is followed by more tempered, slower performances of ‘Fans’ and ‘Milk’. Any slight disparagement I flirt with, however, is roundhouse-kicked to the floor by KOL treating us, in typical hot-headed fashion (and against the wishes of their management), to four new songs, ‘Immortals’, ‘Radioactive’, ‘Mary’ and ‘Southbound’, which seem akin to the arena-rock overtones of current album ‘Only By The Night’. The band also chooses to cover the Pixies track ‘Where Is My Mind?’

A pause, and then Matthew nonchalantly starts picking the instantly recognisable riff of ‘Sex On Fire’. There’s a rib-breaking surge forward, and a deafening, sixty-five thousand strong bellowing of the chorus. Jared pouts and swings his hips through ‘Notion’, sunglasses hanging from the neck of his T-shirt, and the Kings encore with a wailing recital of ‘Use Somebody’ and the ear-pounding ‘Black Thumbnail’, to rapturous appreciation.

Caleb flings his guitar picks into the audience, and stares disbelievingly at the legions of the Kings’ adoring subjects. A short while later, Nathan is updating his Twitter page. “London, you cheeky bastards,” he quips, “you just gave us the highlight of our career.” And the highlight of my summer, too.

Stop callin’, I don’t wanna vote anymore

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With every additional chime as the telephone rings, the simultaneous urge to run away as fast as possible and to pick up the phone in order to scream at the cheery voice on the other end grows stronger. That phone’s ringing a lot more than it usually does – multiple times per day, every day, sometimes even on weekends. And the person on the other end of the line isn’t a friend, or a relative. It’s not a stranger calling to say you’ve won the lottery. Actually, they’re not even trying to sell you anything. They’re trying to get something more important than money from you – your vote.

It’s primary season for midterm elections in the United States, and in some states rivalries between candidates have reached an all-time high. But the candidates have not yet entered into the election ring, the bloodbath of mudslinging and slander that will develop once each party’s candidates for election for governor, senator, or representative are chosen. Instead, it’s a carefully orchestrated volley of propaganda, from signposts by the side of the road, to flyers handed out at sidewalk sales, to a never-ending barrage of phone calls.

Right now, these candidates are fighting simply for their party’s nomination. They want to convince voters that they’re better, not only than whichever candidate the rival party may choose, but than all of the others attempting to secure their own party’s nomination. And they can’t use the same tactics as in a general election, because when the dust settles at the end of the summer, the party has to get behind whichever frontman or frontwoman they’ve chosen, and it’s a little difficult to convince voters to support someone who’s had their dirty laundry exposed by a member of their own party.

So for those in each race, instead of focusing on what’s wrong with the other candidates, they must concentrate on why they’re the best for the job – at the very least, try to do so. And in order to do this, they employ brigades of staff and volunteers, whose sole task for days on end may be to make phone calls. Calls to loyal supporters, yes, but also to every other constituent who represents even the slightest chance at one more vote.

In order to gain their full support, candidates have to make sure voters will get themselves to the ballot box for the primary elections in the first place, as these elections, taking place on dates which vary by state throughout the summer, usually attract low turnout as compared to general elections in November, not even taking into account the lower turnout in any midterm election. So the purpose of these calls is not solely to gain votes; it is to encourage voter turnout in the first place.

However, winning votes is the goal. And to accomplish this goal, Republicans and Democrats alike will ring every voter in their district (for representatives) or in their state (for governors and senators) that is registered as a member of their party, and most will also contact voters registered as independents. In a state like Connecticut, for example, where as recently as 2004 unaffiliated voters comprised 44% of all registered voters, candidates must attempt to garner as much support from these independents as possible.

In my household of four people, three are registered voters (the fourth being a disenfranchised fifteen-year-old). Two are registered as independents, part of that 44%. The third is registered with one of the two major parties, but switched party affiliation several election cycles ago, having registered initially with the other party. And those lists of voters – let’s just say, candidates don’t always use the most updated versions. Consequently, we’re experiencing a torrent of phone calls.

It’s 10:19am. Ring, ring. First call of the day – from the office of Dan Malloy, Democrat, running for governor. An hour later, there’s another from Linda McMahon, Republican candidate for senator. By noon, it’s the team of Jim Himes, incumbent representative of the Fourth Congressional District. Less than five minutes after that one, the phone rings again, calling from the office of Ned Lamont, the other Democratic gubernatorial candidate. And so on.

By five o’clock in the afternoon, as government offices begin to close, we breathe a sigh of relief. Today alone we’ve answered seven calls. Tomorrow there will be more. One might think that each candidate would call once; but they call multiple times, asking on various occasions for each of the registered voters in our home, and sometimes even for constituents who either don’t live here anymore, or are not permitted to vote. The housekeeper who worked here three years ago, the former residents who lived in this house before my family did (nearly two decades ago, come to think of it), even a few times – accidentally, we hope – for that fifteen-year-old who’s not allowed to vote yet. At least for that one, they have an excuse – attempting to indoctrinate the young, perhaps. But a couple of days ago, there was a call for the dog. Now, we really hope that was a mistake.

We wait with bated breath for August 10th, the scheduled date for primary elections in Connecticut, after which a few days of relief may come. But we won’t be left in peace for long – soon we’ll be hearing from candidates for the general election, which will be just around the corner.

Said the Playwright to the Bishop

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Last weekend the General Synod of the Church of England met to discuss the issue of women’s eligibility as bishops. Last weekend, newspaper headlines featured the appointment of openly homosexual cleric Dr. Jeffrey John as a nominee for the position of Bishop of Southwark. Last weekend, Drew Pautz’s play Love the Sinner closed after its successful two month run at the National Theatre. The National’s timing could not have been more appropriate in featuring the world premiere of Pautz’s play on the conflict within the Anglican church, as its leaders internationally grapple with the Church’s stance on homosexuality.

The play opens at a conference in an unnamed African country, with African church leaders denouncing the liberal policies of the Western Church, American Anglicans championing the Church ‘evolving’ with the times and a bearded Englishman, obliquely referred to as ‘Your Grace’, refusing to take a side. The story unfolds with a member of the Church conference having a homosexual encounter with a young African man who then turns up in London demanding asylum from the persecution he faces in Africa due to his sexuality. The experience of seeing Pautz’s play at the National’s Cottesloe Theatre was both riveting and refreshingly sympathetic to all the distinct voices and opinions present in the questions of the Church’s role throughout the world.

In a period when theatre is rising to address the issues sensationalized daily by the media, with examples ranging from the London success and New York failure of Enron: the Musical to the mixed response to David Hare’s commissioned play The Power of Yes on the current financial crisis, it is increasingly rare to find a piece of politically and socially relevant theatre that treats all perspectives as respectfully and artistically as Drew Pautz’s work. While I am eagerly anticipating Pautz’s next piece, Love the Sinner succeeded for me most in presenting a model of theatre with a social function that can gain recognition in London and beyond, perhaps even in Oxford.

In a university setting dominated by endless reprisals of Shakespeare’s canon, Marlowe’s Dr. Faustus and Chekhov’s depressed families, I wonder if Oxford’s thesps can be inspired by the young Pautz to produce their own versions of socially relevant theatre. Yes, we’ve all applauded Wertenbaker’s Our Country’s Good and Churchill’s multiple dissections of gender roles, but Pautz’s play appears to have provided more than just another politicized approach to discussing the meta-theatricality of theatre and performance itself. Didn’t Ibsen, Shaw and even Shakespeare write their masterpieces on the pressing social, political and ethical challenges of their times? I would challenge Oxford playwrights to do the same: pick up a newspaper and write a play based on a headline.

An upcoming OUDS production is already leading the way: Frank McGuiness’ play Carthaginians is being staged 4th week of Michaelmas in the O’Reilly Theatre and echoes The National’s timing with Love the Sinner with its retelling of the events of Bloody Sunday in the wake of the Saville report from this June. I hope we can see many more similiar departures from the standard fare of Oxford drama in the future.

The composer who painted music

Olivier Messiaen (1908-1992) was a French composer, organist, teacher, ornithologist, and synaesthete. Although he has yet to enter the mainstream, among musicians his reputation soars higher than the upper register of his instrument. And a year-long festival of his music, held in 2008 in venues across London to mark the centenary of his birth, at last earned him some popular recognition.

Messiaen is the only major composer in history whose style has never been closely imitated. One reason for this is the curious tonality of his music. Like most of his avant-garde contemporaries, Messiaen generally did not compose in major and minor keys. Yet unlike them, he chose not to join Arnold Schoenberg’s then-fashionable school of atonal “serialism”. He instead devised his own “modes of limited transposition”: jarring, luminous scales that had no harmonic precedent in Western music, and which he all but trademarked.

These scales are one of the features behind the “colourfulness” of Messiaen’s music. As a synaesthete, Messiaen “experienced” colours (though he emphasised that he did not perceive them visually) upon hearing certain harmonies, and cited Mozart, Wagner and Stravinsky as particularly “colourful” composers. By associating each of his modes with a different hue, he effectively “painted” his music. And often on gigantic canvases. Just listen to the skyscraping opening theme of the Turangalîla-Symphonie (1948), or to La Transfiguration de Notre Seigneur Jésus-Christ (1969), a piece scored for one hundred and eighteen instruments and a ten-part choir.

Though a devout Roman Catholic, Messiaen did not write conventional liturgical music. Instead, he studied Japanese gagaku, Indonesian gamelan, and Hindu and ancient Greek rhythms, and was inspired by the unusual colours and birdsongs of Bryce Canyon in Utah to compose his orchestral piece Des Canyons aux Étoiles (1974). Encouraged by his teacher (the composer Paul Dukas) to “listen to the birds”, Messiaen would embark on solitary nature walks, transcribing birdsong as he went. These strolls resulted in the Catalogue d’Oiseaux (1958) for solo piano, a collection of thirteen tone poems based on the songs of thirteen different birds. Even when writing religious music, he overlooked all the doom and gloom in the Christian tradition in favour of extolling with messianic joy the figure of Christ. Typical is the title of the organ piece Transports de Joie d’une Âme devant la Gloire du Christ qui est la Sienne (1933), which translates as “Ecstasies of a Soul before the Glory of Christ, which is its own Glory”.

One of Messiaen’s works stands apart from the others. Quatuor pour la Fin du Temps (1941), the “Quartet for the End of Time”, is remarkable for the circumstances of its composition. Working as a medic in the French army during World War II, Messiaen was captured by the Germans and imprisoned at the camp Stalag VIII-A. Among his fellow prisoners he found a clarinettist, a cellist and a violinist; with himself as pianist, he assembled an unconventional quartet and composed the Quatuor. The premiere was given on a freezing January day in 1941, before an audience of prisoners and guards, and the piano which Messiaen had received from the Nazis was out of tune and missing keys. The composer later recalled of the occasion, “Never was I listened to with such rapt attention and comprehension.”

Throughout his later career, Messiaen supplemented his composer’s income by teaching and serving as the organist at the church of La Trinité in Paris. Yet – drawing inspiration from his wife, the pianist Yvonne Loriod – he continued to compose. Of his late works, the oddly static Saint François d’Assise (1983) is notable for being his longest and calmest work as well as his only opera. It is a fitting coda to a totally unpredictable career, which ended in 1992 with Messiaen’s death by very old age.

Film4 Does DiCaprio

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On Friday, Christopher Nolan’s Inception hits our screens and sees Leonardo DiCaprio star alongside Joseph Gordon-Levitt and Ellen Page. But if you can’t wait until then to see DiCaprio’s long-awaited return to the silver screen, then this week Film4 might just be your saving grace. To celebrate the eagerly anticipated release, Film4 are showing the four iconic films that catapulted DiCaprio into the limelight in which he basks today.

At 7.20pm on Wednesday 14th July , ‘DiCaprio Week’ opens with Titanic; the film which marked the birth of an icon. Straight after at 11pm, This Boy’s Life proves that DiCaprio can also do small and interesting. It’s a film in which some critics claim he ‘very nearly out-acts De Niro’. On Thursday 15th July there is an 11.45pm offering of Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet. This film is not only Shakespeare at its most dynamic but Craig Armstrong also offers us one of the most poignant musical scores ever composed. The saga concludes on Friday 16th July at 10.45pm with Scorsese’s Gangs of New York: messy, powerful and triumphant.

But this is not the end, my friends. Film4 somehow managed to secure an exclusive interview with DiCaprio himself. Aired on Wednesday 14th July, he reflects on both his past career and his latest epic Inception which, I’m sure, will be another blockbuster under his already bulging belt.

 

Our Man in Southern Lebanon

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On the road from Beirut to Sour (pronounced ‘Soor’), a coastal town about 20km from Lebanon’s southern border with Israel, my friend Aaron and I pass an increasing number of Lebanese military checkpoints and one UNIFIL checkpoint. (United Nations Interim Forces In Lebanon, since 1978.) The Lebanese military see us through with a curt nod, while the UNIFIL guards glare imperiously from atop two black tanks stationed behind white concrete barriers, each stenciled ‘Peace to Lebanon’. (The obvious subtext: ‘Or else’.) The increasingly visible military presence tips us off that things in the south, especially the southeast are not so settled compared to our experience in Beirut. (See previous article, ‘Our Man in Beirut, Lebanon’.)

In fact, the further south we travel in Lebanon, the less people are willing to talk about its biggest political problems: Israel and Hezbollah. Their reticence is easy enough to understand: Israel and Hezbollah have clashed repeatedly since 2000, most recently in 2006, when Israel bombarded Beirut and invaded southern Lebanon (including Sour), in response to Hezbollah rocket fire that killed three Israeli soldiers, with two others subsequently kidnapped. (Hezbollah is a political party in Lebanon, formed in 1982 to oppose Israeli invasion and occupation during the Lebanese Civil War. The United States, at least, considers the party a terrorist organization.) While Hezbollah provides much-needed social services in southeastern Lebanon, this stronghold also keeps it unnervingly proximate to the Israeli border.

All of which makes us keen to visit the border and see firsthand the status of the current peace. We get off to a poor start with our hotel, in Sour, where the staff suddenly forget they speak English when we ask for the best route to the border:

Can you tell us the best route to the Israeli border? [We point to the border on our map.]

No, no, I don’t know that. I don’t understand?

Undeterred, we walk down to the taxi station to negotiate in a language that everybody understands. From our map and a quick Internet search we determine that Fatima Gate, a former border crossing closed in 2000, would be a good bet. The Gate is located near the town of Kfar Kila (pronounced ‘Far Keela’), and eventually we find a taxi driver who knows this place. We haggle over the price, taking turns wiping-out and drawing numbers in the dust on the back window of his taxi. A half-dozen drivers crowd around to watch the action.

Off we go, winding up and through the hills of southeastern Lebanon. The elevation gives us expansive views of dry, pitched countryside, sparsely covered with golden grass and shoots of green conifers. Construction activity in this region is less obvious than in the areas around Beirut, especially commercial construction, but we pass dozens of homes in various stages of development, many of them impressively large. A good portion of the roadway is pristine, recently laid asphalt, along which we observe the steady substitution of yellow and green Hezbollah flags for red, white and green Lebanese flags. Pictures of Hassan Nasrallah, secretary general of Hezbollah, appear regularly on power poles and billboards, smiling and waving even more flags.

Presently we are stopped at another Lebanese military checkpoint, in an area our driver calls ‘Mankour’. (His English is extremely limited; our Arabic is worse.) The soldiers scrutinise our passports and make numerous, stern demands of our driver. Apparently, the road we want to take requires military clearance that we don’t have. We drive to the nearby UNIFIL checkpoint, and while these guards assure us no clearance is required our driver gets on his mobile and finds someone who speaks English:

You want to go to Kfar Kila? There is another route, it is much longer but there is no military. If you tell me then my friend [our driver] will take you.

Since our driver is not about to weigh the UNIFIL’s claims against his own military, we agree to the proposal of the faceless English speaker.

Over an hour later we are still winding our way through the Lebanese countryside. It is hot and we are hungry, even our driver, so stop for lunch in a town called Bint Jbay. The entrance to the town is marked by a large sign mounted in a circle of manicured grass. The sign reads: ‘The Capital of Resistance and Liberation’. It supports a half-dozen yellow and green flags.

Looks like we are having lunch with Hezbollah.

The shawarma is delicious and the interactions stilted but friendly. (Again, weak English and worse Arabic.) We split an ice cream bar for dessert, which seems to please the owner of the restaurant. We really aren’t surprised to find such ordinary life in this Hezbollah stronghold: in Bint Jbay as in Beirut, as in New York or Oxford, ordinary life is, for most people, just ordinary life.

But not for everyone: back on the road we finally reach Fatima Gate, which is marked by an abandoned UNIFIL outpost, a low-slung white bunker adorned with razor wire and the minimalist ‘UN’ logo. There is a helipad down the hill, about 500 yards from the border fence, where we walk for a better vantage. We take several photographs before we notice another, smaller Lebanese military outpost tucked further down the hill. There is a gray bunker and at least one tank, hidden from the sky by camouflage netting.

As we walk back to our taxi, we hear whistling and shouting in Arabic. Two Lebanese military personnel have emerged from the bunker and are calling us back down the hill. They take our passports and the inevitable miscommunication ensues. Then they take our cameras. Then they see our driver and dispatch a truck to bring him onto the scene. The younger of the two soldiers returns to the bunker for further instructions while his senior interrogates us in futile, angry Arabic. We grow increasingly nervous.

Our driver arrives in a bluster of exculpatory Arabic. (We hope.) The younger guard returns with orders to delete any pictures we have taken of the site. Duty discharged, we reclaim our passports and jump into the taxi. As we drive away, our resolve disintegrates in an outburst of nervous laughter. Even our driver is relieved. High fives are exchanged all around.

Mission: Accomplished.

 

[Photo: A devastated Israeli tank impaled by a Hezbollah flag, near the Lebanon-Israel border.]

 

Review: Inception

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To go into the cinema knowing next to nothing about a film is a rare thing indeed these days; even rarer if the film in question is one of the biggest of the year, both in length and cost (148 minutes and $200 million respectively), with a huge cast of familiar and, in general, really really ridiculously good-looking stars. Yet though Inception is perhaps the summer’s most anticipated film, hardly any plot details have been available in the run-up to its release. The trailers have been cryptic, the posters more so, while the writer/director Christopher Nolan has refused to reveal anything remotely resembling a spoiler in interviews, smiling that he likes to ‘keep things a little close to the chest.’ Such extraordinary secrecy is with very good reason – not only does it ensure that the film itself is a surprise (and an extraordinary one at that), but the plot is so ambitious, so utterly balls-to-the-wall ridiculous, that any attempt to explain it would send you laughing from the room. At the risk of sounding like a tagline, it needs to be seen to be believed.

As such, there is little alternative for this review to be anything other than ambiguous – perhaps frustratingly so. Nevertheless, to provide a plot synopsis would be to do a severe injustice to the film itself, so, to put it in the vaguest possible terms: Inception centres on dreams and their connection with reality. This initial concept is one that allows for seemingly limitless invention from Nolan, and he embraces this with one of the most ambitious and complex scripts in recent years, piling on twists and complications from the first frame to the last. Such complexity is a hugely risky endeavour, as at any point there is the possibility that the film might lose the audience completely, and it is to Nolan’s credit that we never feel too perplexed. Indeed, he seems to have an innate trust of, and respect for, his audience, and never slows the plot down to make sure everyone’s keeping up (though Ellen Page’s Ariadne is perhaps a little too blatant in her role as a surrogate audience, there to have the plot explained to her). It’s intensely cerebral, and insists that the viewer keeps their wits about them. However, the film is by no means a dry or academic affair, and while it explores fascinating ideas and themes, it never skimps on the spectacle. Inception contains some truly groundbreaking action scenes, including a gravity-defying fist-fight similar (though superior) to those in The Matrix and an epic climax at a snowy mountain base, reminiscent of Bond at his best.

Indeed, Christopher Nolan rams his film full of cinematic, literary and artistic references – from Greek mythology to 2001: A Space Odyssey, M. C. Escher to Edith Piaf – and seems happy to acknowledge the debt this film owes to others. Perhaps most unexpected are the similarities that Inception bears to both Charlie Kaufman’s Synecdoche, New York and Scorsese’s recent Shutter Island; indeed, Leonardo DiCaprio’s role in the latter is remarkably similar to his role here, though Nolan has coaxed a marginally superior performance from him. He is effortlessly stylish yet internally fractured as Dom Cobb, a father just trying to get back to his children, and it is in his hands that the film becomes more than just a hyper-intelligent action flick. A common complaint of Nolan’s films is that they lack emotion, with a coldness reminiscent of Kubrick, yet while such a comparison is, in many ways, highly complementary, it falls down with Inception. One of the crucial reasons this film is Nolan’s best is because, while he has retained his tendency to produce a carefully calibrated and precisely engineered film, he has finally embraced the more raw, emotional punch his previous work lacked. Thanks both to his script and the powerful performances of DiCaprio and Marion Cotillard, the film becomes a surprisingly and gratifyingly moving experience.

If nothing else, Inception will go down as one of the riskiest endeavours ever undertaken by a filmmaker. Fresh off the record-breaking success of The Dark Knight, Nolan became the golden child at Warner Brothers, and was finally allowed to develop what had been his dream project (in more ways than one). Yet it could so easily have all fallen apart, collapsing into a self-indulgent, incoherent vanity project under a director drunk on success. Happily, nothing could be further from the truth. That the ideas behind the film have obsessed him since he was sixteen says a lot for their complexity and, more importantly, their quality, and the decades he has spent developing the script have clearly paid off. Challenging and often surreal ideas are presented far more clearly than they might have been, as Nolan consistently displays a steady-handed grip on the material. The audience is never allowed to be too bewildered, and much of the credit for this must also go to the editor, Lee Smith, whose ability to find coherence amongst the four simultaneous set-pieces at the film’s climax is nothing short of a miracle.

Inception is outstanding in almost every way conceivable, from Hans Zimmer’s brutally dramatic and modern score to Wally Pfister’s magnificent cinematography, which makes the most of the astonishing and hugely varied locations that the film travels to. No-one makes a false step amongst the ensemble cast, all of whom deliver fantastic work, with Cillian Murphy and Tom Hardy proving particularly impressive. Ultimately, however, this is Nolan’s film, having written and directed it with apparently limitless creative freedom. The world can finally have unfiltered access to his vision, and it’s like nothing we’ve ever seen. Although it owes huge debts to a vast number of different films and works of art, and though it even embraces genre to some extent – it is, in many ways, a heist film, though by no means a conventional one – the greatest and most striking virtue of Inception is its fierce originality. It functions at once as a superior thriller and a self-referential tribute to the infinite possibilities that face a true artist. Against all odds, and in a summer of well over twenty remakes and sequels, Christopher Nolan has delivered a phenomenal action film of extraordinary intelligence. There aren’t enough superlatives in the world.

 

Our Man in Beirut, Lebanon

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The aeroport in Beirut is small, neat and swarming with taxi drivers. My friend Aaron and I are pursued, at times escorted through the terminal by smiling men pretending not to hear us decline their services.

Taxi? Service? [A kind of shared taxi service.] Where are you from? Welcome to Lebanon.

We are determined to take public transport, the best source of local culture, into the city, so fight our way into the parking lot and approach for directions a family getting into their car. They are clearly apprehensive at our approach; we must look like taxi drivers. ‘Bus station?’ They seem to understand and gesture vaguely toward the nearby motorway. Five minutes later they drive across the car park to correct our course and embellish their earlier directions.

Dear Mum and Dad,

You were right to be worried about this trip to the Middle East. They are killing us over here. With kindness.

Despite this improved guidance the bus station remains elusive. After another passer-by suggests that ‘Everyone in Beirut takes a taxi’ we relent, and he cheerfully flags and negotiates our ride. The car is an ancient green Mercedes, rusting out from bottom to top; unbelievably, the driver is even older and more rusted. Let the adventure begin!

Car accident.

It is amazing this only happens one time. The driving in Beirut, in every place we visit in Lebanon, is crazy. Most roads have no lines; where there are lines, even double centre lines, these are completely ignored. Car horns are used more than clutches: to signal passing, to invite passengers into a taxi, as a substitute for stopping at intersections. The driver of the jeep that runs us into a guardrail launches from behind the wheel, screaming Arabic at our driver while reaching around behind his right hip. He’s going for a gun – wait, wait, where’s my camera! – but it’s only his license and insurance, which he waves angrily. A police officer arrives and order is restored. Our taxi trundles off down the middle of the road.

There are other obvious differences between home and away, East and West. We start keeping score as soon as we board the plane, with the safety presentation from Cyprus Airways:

If the cabin pressure drops, oxygen masks will drop from the ceiling. If this is a smoking flight, put your cigarette out immediately…

Please do not smoke while standing or in any of the designated non-smoking sections of the aircraft.

Even in cosmopolitan Beirut there are far fewer women than men out and about, shopping or working, and many more of these women wear a veil or hijab. We never travel far without seeing buildings scarred by gunfire: since 1975, Lebanon has endured fifteen years of civil war (until 1990), a presidential assassination (in 2005), armed conflict with Israel (in 2006) and Palestine (in 2007), and more internal conflict involving Hezbollah (in 2008). The corollary to this is a highly visible military presence: tanks, Humvees and soldiers keeping watch over major intersections, roadways and buildings.

The thing to notice, however, is how these differences are only part, even a small part of what is actually happening in Beirut. It is abundantly clear, even after our first frantic hour, that the city and its surrounding areas are shot-through with a crackling, anxious, enviable purpose. The traffic is a function of the life crawling everywhere, much like the cranes pulling buildings from the ground or the tenants chasing-up the scaffolding to occupy units on an as-completed basis. We see dozens of buildings where first-floor businesses operate beneath rows of cinder-block shells, infant apartments. A blown-out building downtown garages military vehicles on the ground floor and, indifferently, squatters up above.

When we finally manage to take a local bus, heading south to a town called Saida, the driver leaves the station with only our seats filled, but before reaching the motorway he has found, with minimal detour, enough passengers to fill every seat.

Saida, Saida! Yalla, Yalla! [Arabic for ‘Come on!’]

Our bus driver’s enterprise is everywhere: in crowded markets, banks, travel agencies, corner coffee merchants offering impossibly bitter liquid, restaurants, shawarma stalls, hotels, Internet cafes. North American fast food chains have built gleaming outlets that underline local self-confidence. (Schadenfreude alert: we are delighted to see locals opt for shawarma over the Burger King next door.)

My parents were nervous about this trip, displaying a mystical authority over the unknown: ‘They just think about things differently over there.’ Without effacing its caustic, violent history (some lingering effects of which we will recount in a subsequent article), it turns out that the conditions on the ground in Beirut are significantly ‘different’ only in the version they depict of how people everywhere get-on with the happy, gritty, unpredictable work of life. The posh city centre (called Place d’Etoile) stands atop the former Green Line, the devastated centre of the Lebanese civil war. (It feels like Slumdog Millionaire when our local host has difficulty finding his car in the underground car park.) Next to this is the Hariri Mosque, a massive dedication to the assassinated former president. On its soft carpet, under its looming, gleaming chandeliers, we discuss self-identity through group membership with a Lebanese ex-patriot who fled Toronto and its pervasive anomie.

Who am I, what am I doing tomorrow, who are you and what do you want? The concerns of the global village are alive in Beirut as much as anywhere, in some ways more visibly, the renovations are still so new and developing. We meet the child in the picture en route to Damascus, sharing a hired van with his Lebanese family and some other men going home to Syria. He and I spend the ride exchanging high fives and fist bumps and everyone shares snacks after we make a rest stop. For all our differences – language, religion, history, colour, worldview, income, life experience, mores – all of us are hushed as we drive up and out of Beirut, away from the coast, watching white clouds pile-up and spill over the horizon, stained red by a dying sun.

Online Review: Lebanon

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Lebanon, winner of the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival, and representative of a new vein in Israeli cinema alongside the excellent Waltz with Bashir, is in a tricky position. A highly personal account of the director’s experience of the Lebanon war, it makes no claim to impartiality (and nor should it need to). Consequently, it has attracted some controversy, both from those who claim it is a damning portrayal of the Israeli army, and those who decry the film as exaggerated and untrue. In reality, the film is a visceral and claustrophobic condemnation of war in general, rather than any specific conflict. Phalangists and phosphorous aside, it could be set in any modern war.

Filmed entirely in the tight confines of an Israeli tank, the film follows a tank crew through a day in Lebanon. We sit in on tense conversations between the crew, receive icy radio orders from afar and stare down the tanks sights with Shliumik, the gunner and almost silent protagonist. It’s not war, but rather a perception of war distorted through a periscope- the outside world is a fiction.

At times, the film seems on the brink of degenerating into horror. The crew are uniformly out of their depth, unaware of the politics of the conflict, and scared. The tanks interior steadily deteriorates with the situation, and the final panic stricken scenes suggest a nightmare.

More complete explorations of the Lebanon war exist, and the film is by no means unique in its portrayal of conflict. But Moaz has nevertheless crafted a harrowing slice of fear. To view the film as anything more would be to put words in its mouth.

Italian Renaissance Drawings @ The British Museum

The British Museum’s Reading Room is an imposing space. It takes quite an impressive exhibition to live up to that high domed structure. And the latest collection of objects to occupy the space is nothing if not impressive, including pieces by Michelangelo, Botticelli, Da Vinci and Titian. A collaboration with the renowned Uffizi Gallery, the exhibition features original, restored drawings by the masters of Italian Renaissance Art.

 

What is first apparent about the exhibition is that it has been designed with a certain intimacy in mind. A one way maze through the circular space prevents excessive over crowding around the more popular pieces and encourages visitors to examine each drawing. More importantly, an intimacy is achieved simply by the fact that as an observer, you are allowed to stand extremely close to the sketches, separated only by an unobtrusive glass frame.

 

This means that each crack and fold and even the small holes pierced in the paper used to “trace” the sketches are visible. All of this lends a personal aspect to the exhibition, giving the viewer a chance to put aside the superhuman status of the featured artists and instead see their work as the result of practice, error and redraft. Looking at the pencil studies of hands, the repositioning of limbs and the occasional erased line, many of which were never meant to be seen, you feel as though you are seeing the raw secret of each artist’s talent.

 

The exhibition is full of interesting and noteworthy pieces. There are many sketches which include writing, such as indications of the colours to be used in a finished painting or Leonardo Da Vinci’s descriptions of the curious tortoise-like war machines he had designed. There are also sketches of women by Botticelli which foreshadow his iconic painting, The Birth of Venus. These drawings are able to humanize a work of art that had become iconic and far from detracting from the masterpiece, they add an extra dimension.

 

You may find yourself looking far closer at these sketches than any great masterpiece and you’ll find that each piece has a sense of fragility and humanity. And although the British Museum has gathered an extensive collection of drawings, brimming with sketches made by numerous artists, mediums and depicting different subjects, this endearing frailty is the common theme. Simultaneously impressive, subtle and deeply affecting, this is a very different experience than that offered by most exhibitions and it is undeniably worthwhile.

 

 

Fra Angelico to Leonardo: Italian Renaissance Drawings is at the British Museum until July 25. £12 fully price, £10 concessions