Thursday 31st July 2025
Blog Page 2060

Pakistan’s political cricketer

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When Imran Khan sits, he does so regally: this is a man who inspires awe in every room he walks into. Indubitably, he is one of the all-time greatest cricketers – rated the third best bowler ever by the ICC rankings. Cricket gave him his legendary status, of that there can be no denying. Yet could it be that his true legacy is not to a sport he served so brilliantly but to a country he loves even more dearly?

As a cricketer he captained Pakistan with distinction for a decade. This ultimate warrior-king had a presence so powerful it is scarcely believable, a product not just of his all-round cricketing brilliance but his bounding self-confidence (or outright arrogance, in the view of many). To this is added his searing intellectual abilities – a fearsome combination which helped him unify that most enigmatic of cricketing beasts, Pakistan. A nation of rich diversity, a fusion of misty industrial cities and passionate tribesman in areas of immense barrenness, this has traditionally been mirrored in their cricket side.

Throughout their cricket-playing history, they have been volatile to the point of caricature; brilliant but fickle to the point of tedious cliché. Imran – or, more accurately, The Cult of Imran – was able to transcend the petty squabbles that have characterised so much of their cricketing history. Under his transformative leadership, the ‘cornered tigers’ triumphed in the 1992 World Cup, by far their most significant cricketing achievement.

The ‘Cult of Imran’ is still at work today – but cricket, the sport that made him, can seldom have seemed so insignificant. His passion for the betterment of his country is fierce, and this is what he’s devoted his energy to more recently. Some may have expected a lecture on Pakistan’s problem; Imran responds to questions almost confrontationally. He interrogates an English-educated Pakistani; “Are you going to use this knowledge to come back and improve the lot of your own country?” To Imran, returning is a matter of duty.

And, just as he led by example on the cricket pitch, so he is doing so in trying to fix his fragmented country. In 1996, he formed his own political party, the Movement for Justice – something sorely lacking in Pakistan, where “you cannot imagine the cruelty that is going on to the common man, because there is no justice.”

Imran began studying PPE at Keble in 1972 as a 19-year-old, by which point he had, extraordinarily, already made his Test debut for Pakistan. What immediately struck him about the country was not the wealth or glamour but the way in which the poor were looked after. “When I saw what a welfare state was, that’s what I understood a humane state was.” This is in stark contrast with present-day Pakistan – “In what country do the poor people subsidise the rich?” He has attacted the interest of far too many gossip columns to name throughout his life, he has retained a desire to help those less fortunate than himself. This has primarily been through extensive charity work, and more recently through the political life that he has emhe has so immersed itself in.
As he freely acknowledges, his brilliant cricketing career allowed him to “rub shoulders with some of the jet set” – something he took great pleasure from. Yet “is the purpose of life comfort of the self?” Imran’s dream is to restore Pakistan to being the great Islamic welfare state it once was –his optimism is admirable and extraordinary considering the plight currently facing his homeland.

Khan compares present-day Pakistan to “France just before the French Revolution”. He warns of incredibly dangerous, yet incredibly exciting, times ahead, and pinpoints the next six months as being pivotal in shaping the future of the country.

What is this optimism based on? “The level of political awareness in Pakistan is unprecedented”; the people are aware of the corruption that is propping up the small ruling elite. With the people suitably engaged, “we have all the prerequisites…now all we need is an election.” A fair election, unlike that in 2007 which Imran boycotted, is essential for Pakistan’s transformation into the sort of state he dreams of. But he believes circumstances will make this inevitable within a few months.

Admittedly the task following the election will hardly be an easy one. He argues “the biggest problem is this war on terror.” Like so many, Khan has been disappointed by Barack Obama (after the stratospheric expectations, one could hardly fail to be), though he is more scathing than most in his comment on the surge in Afghanistan, going as far as labelling him “Bush +”.

Imran’s message, delivered forcefully yet with charm and charisma is unmistakeable. To all those Pakistanis currently living happily in England, “you have a responsibility to go back and help your own country”. He is himself proving as good as his word.

Tennis Blues ace their opponents

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The hardy members of Oxford University Lawn Tennis Club (OULTC) are currently wondering why Federer, Murray et al are living it up in the Melbourne sunshine whilst we are attempting to battle rain, snow and other adverse weather conditions just to get to the indoor tennis courts.  However, in contrast to the weather, it is not at all gloomy in Oxford tennis this year.  Five out of six of our teams are currently competing in the BUCS leagues, with the Women’s 3rds hopefully the next to join. The Men’s Blues are in the Premier League for our third consecutive year and the women are pushing through Division 1A, looking like they may very well match the boys in tennis achievement.   

This Wednesday both the Men’s and Women’s Blues were travelling against the snow to their respective matches, against Bristol 1sts and Warwick 1sts. The matches started with a pro-set (first to 8 games) of doubles, and the Men’s 2nd pair of Gregory Weir (Keble) and Tim Matthewson (Brasenose) quickly showed their dominance by winning a stunning 8-1. The Men’s 1st pair of Marc Baghdadi (Pembroke) and Fred Burgess (Trinity) had a much tighter, see-saw set. After going down an early break of serve, they recovered and managed to go up a break themselves to lead 5-3. However, the lead was lost two games later, and after going down another break, couldn’t recover and lost the set 9-7. This meant the overall match was poised at 1-1, and with four singles to come, everything was still to play for.

With the luxury of having four courts to play on, all four players went on at the same time. The first to come off was Fred, playing at number 4. Matched up against a more experienced opponent, Fred unfortunately went down 6-2 6-2. Next off was Tim, playing at number 2. This time, it was Tim who had the much stronger game, and beat his opponent 6-1 6-1. The overall match was back on level terms. Both remaining singles matches had only just finished the first set by this time.

Greg, playing at 3, got off to a slow start, letting his opponent race into a 4-0 lead. However, he managed to claw his way back, and sneaked the set on a tie-break, 7-6. He then raced through the second set 6-0 with an easy confidence. Marc, playing at 1, let an early break slip at 5-4, and lost his first set on a tie-break 7-6. The second set also went a lot quicker, but unfortunately the wrong way again, as he lost it 6-2. This meant another 5-5 draw for the Men, who remain in 3rd place in a tight and talented group, just a point behind 2nd-placed Bath, who are their next opponents.  A victory against Bath would make a second place finish still a distinct possibility.

At the same time the Women’s team, comprised of Anjoli Foster (Keble), Astrid Grindlay (Christ Church), Philippa Coates (Somerville), and Vicky Moffett (Keble), travelled to Warwick. Both the doubles were straightforward affairs, with Philippa and Vicky on top form, winning 8-0 at second pair, and Anjoli and Astrid winning 8-3 at first pair. With both doubles under their belts, they seemed to be cruising to victory with the singles still to be played. The matches were played in reverse order, so Vicky, playing at 4, and Philippa, at 3, were first on. Both came through very comfortably,  with Vicky winning 6-3 6-1, and Philippa winning 6-3 6-2.  The win already secure, Anjoli went on and came off just as quickly, with a 6-3 6-1 demolition as well. This left Astrid, playing at 1, to finish off a comfortable whitewash.

However, this match proved a little tougher. A tight first set eventually went the way of the Warwick girl, 7-5. The second set was equally tight, but with Astrid leading 5-4, the match unfortunately had to be abandoned as court time had run out. Under BUCS rules, the win was therefore given to Astrid, and the Women came home with their third 10-0 win of the season.

They are now firmly in second place in their Division, just three points behind leaders Birmingham, but with the last match against them. With a much greater rubber difference, a win next week would see them leap into first place, and gain the promotion play-off spot to join the Men in the Premier League for the first time in the club’s history.

Cherwell Photo Blog: Version 2.0

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Fancy yourself as a photographer?

Want your photographs from around and about Oxford seen by the thousands of people who visit the Cherwell website every day?

If so, why not send a few of your snaps into [email protected]?

 

Friday: Rose Lane – Apocalyptic Sunset. Rachel Chew

 

 

Thursday: I’ll meet you by the bridge. Chris Moses

 

Wednesday: Holocaust Memorial Day. Wojtek Szymczak

 

Tuesday: Equus Press Preview – Ollie Ford

 

Monday: Exeter’s Iron Man awaits Burns Night. Chris Moses

 

Sunday: Gaza and Occupied Oxford: One Year On at the Town Hall – Jumanah Younis

 

Saturday: Head of the River – Una Kim

Oxford’s Innovations

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All around Oxford, in laboratories, in offices, in ivory towers, the University’s
academics and students are busy investigating and innovating. Wherever there are unanswered questions, where there is doubt, where there are problems to be overcome, the dedicated and talented minds of this city will be hard at it, experimenting, travelling, writing, chewing their pencils, tapping their clipboards, meeting, greeting and working. Always working. This week, Cherwell has done research of its own, into a selection of the potentially world-changing research going on in Oxford at the moment.

Flight Mechanics
Oxford’s Innovations Dr Graham Taylor’s research team in the Department of Zoology works to uncover the secrets that underpin the exceptional flight performance of birds and insects. Funded by a €1.95M grant from the European Research Council, the team studies questions ranging from how the sensory physiology of a hawkmoth is tuned to its flight dynamics, to how the flexible feathers of an eagle’s wings allow it to tolerate gusty conditions. The experiments push hard at the frontiers of technological possibility and almost all of the team’s apparatus is custom-designed and built, including an immersive virtual reality flight simulator for hawkmoths and an inertial sensor unit and video camera carried by the group’s trained Steppe Eagle Cossack (pictured). The team comprises Engineers and Biologists, and the work has obvious applications to the design of miniature air vehicles. Nevertheless, it is the deeper biological questions that Dr Taylor says drive his research: most fundamentally, how natural selection tunes the dynamics of a system as complex as a bird or insect in flight. Answering this question will have implications not only for our understanding of animal flight, but for our understanding of the evolutionary process itself. For funded DPhil opportunities in 2010 contact [email protected].

                                                                                 Photo: Simon Walker

Ultrasound
The Biomedical Ultrasonics and Biotherapy Laboratory (BUBL) has been working
to develop drug delivery systems that combine therapeutic ultrasound with microbubble technologies, for applications such as thrombolysis, reversible
opening of the blood brain barrier, and gene therapy for cardiovascular disorders. BUBL’s research focuses on whether ultrasound-induced cavitation can be used to remove the physiological barriers presented by tumour vasculature in order to enhance the therapeutic effect of otherwise potent anticancer agents throughout the tumour. The use of focussed ultrasound allows the tumour microenvironment to be disturbed in a controlled manner in order to promote the delivery of anticancer agents whilst leaving surrounding healthy tissues unaffected. To benefit from the full therapeutic potential of the proposed drug delivery system, cavitation activity must be controlled, enhanced and optimized at the site of interest. This can be accomplished by monitoring the broadband noise, harmonic and subharmonic emissions from various types of volumetric and shape oscillations that arise as a result of different cavitational behaviours. Non-invasive, passive and active monitoring of these emissions is viewed as a way of correlating particular types of cavitational activity with particular enhancements in drug activity and uptake. Ultrasound itself can also be used as a trigger for localized drug release.

Rice Growth
The problem: by 2050, global population is expected to reach 10 billion, while resources, climate change and water availability will all become increasingly unpredictable. 700 million people in Asia currently rely on rice for the majority of their calorific intake, and this is expected to increase by 50% in the next 40 years. To address this, a global group of scientists are spearheading the ‘C4 Rice’ project, coordinated by the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines, and funded by the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation. Professor Jane Langdale is leading a research group at Oxford that investigates certain genes which are thought to play a key role in the photosynthesis of plants. The project aims to adapt the anatomy of rice leaves to change the photosynthesis pathway that is used. Rice currently uses what is known as a ‘C3′ pathway, which under warm conditions is very inefficient. The project aims to adapt the pathways to make use of the ‘C4′ form of photosynthesis, which is found in plants like maize. It is thought that the genes (GLK) Professor Langdale is investigating regulate whether a plant employs C3 or C4 methods of photosynthesis, and by transferring genes from a plant such as maize, which uses the C4 method, this more efficient form of photosynthesis could be utilised by rice, greatly reducing the amount of water and fertiliser needed to grow this staple. Currently the research is in the middle of the ‘proof of concept’ stage which tests the feasibility of the project as a whole, but has potential to be taken further.

                                                                                   Photo: Or Hiltch

World Healthcare
The Global Health Governance Project (GHGP), a part of the Global Economic Governance Programme based at University College, has been working since 2006, investigating the global health system, and specifically trying to establish what can be done to improve the provision of healthcare to developing nations. The GHGP tackles a range of related issues, from the accountability of global health institutions to the divergence between the healthcare priorities of the developing world and the actual provisions of donors. The interdisciplinary nature of the research allows for wide collaboration; the project draws on the skills of academics from the Department of Politics and International Relations, the Department of Public Health and Primary Care and the Oxford Centre for Tropical Medicine. The research methods include semistructured interviews with government officials and NGOs, participation in global health conferences and detailed anthropological fieldwork. Dr Devi Sridhar, founding Director of the GHGP, explained, ‘We hope that the project will lead to better accountability and transparency in relations between developing countries and donors.’ The project is currently embarking on research into the increasing usage of tobacco in many poor countries, with particular emphasis on identifying barriers to the implementation of tobacco control policies. Sridhar added that in addition to the tobacco project and recently publishing a report on the global response to HIV/AIDs, the GHGP will be ‘looking closely at the emerging economies and the role they play in shaping global health’.

Chilli Molecules
How do you know how hot a chilli is without biting into it? In the world of chilli sauce production it’s a pretty important problem, and scientists in Oxford’s Theoretical and Physical Chemistry Labs have developed a product that solves it. It seems an odd thing for Oxford researchers to be working on. However, the chilli molecule happened to be the perfect shape for the chemists to demonstrate a new nano-technology. This is part of “bottom-up science”, where University researchers focus on breakthroughs in the fundamental science and occasionally stumble upon something with a possible
real-world application. Supermarkets buy tons of chillies and pulp them to make sauce. They usually employ a panel of expert tasters to judge their hotness on the ‘Scoville scale’, from Tabasco Pepper Sauce strength (about 2,500 units) to incredibly strong sauces like Mad Dog’s Revenge (1m units – about twice the strength of pepper spray). However, this is unreliable and time-consuming. Over the last 2 years, the Oxford scientists have built and patented a handheld device using carbon nanotubes which gives an instant Scoville measurement. “You just dunk the sensor in and get a reading,” explained Prof. Compton, one of the researchers. Their next project is a garlic sensor.

                                                                                     Photo: Neil Rees

Week 2: Blind Date

Him: Matthew Evans-Young, St John’s, History

St. John’s third year lad, past his best, looking for someone to make him feel young again, and maybe provide some form of stress relief during Finals.

After finding that the Grande Cafe was closed and Scarlett admitting that she was actually a late replacement for one of her friends, we both made the decision to start drinking as soon as possible. Thankfully, she turned out to be very good company, and the date managed to pass without any awkward moments. Despite her questionable love of metal music and one too many stories involving bodily fluids, she was a laugh. We both ended up suitably drunk, and although Scarlett almost pushed the table over at one point, neither of us embarrassed ourselves too much.

Banter: Good
Looks: Fit
Personality: Fun
2nd date? Potentially…

Her: Scarlett Benson, Magdalen, Human Sciences

Self-proclaimed head WAG of Magdalen, looking for a fellow vegetarian who also doesn’t like vegetables.

It so happened that Matt and I had already met; on a particularly dismal crew date last term. This wasn’t a good start, and I expected a repeat in which I would be rather anxious to escape within half an hour. This was not the case, and while this was almost certainly aided by the constant flow of cocktails, matt’s amusing stories of naked runs down the high street, and other unmentionables made for an enjoyable date. After our fifth cocktails we were both in desperate need of the toilet and we decided that, to avoid going together, we would rock-paper-scissor it. Matt soon went on to abuse my terrible taste in music, and indeed my undying love for Charlie from Busted, which is, I suppose, understandable. So whilst I was initially was turned off by the fact he played rugby, and thus must inevitably have terrible chat, I laughed throughout, largely at him, and stumbled home hours later smiling.

Banter: For a rugby player, not bad
Looks: Chiselled (he thinks so too)
Personality: Down to earth.
2nd date? Probably not… 

Going Up, Going Down

Going Up:

Chris Evans

The British Chambers of Commerce has been quoted as saying that the UK economy is on the “brink of leaving recession”. It’s about time. Celebratory bonus anyone?

The Economy

The British Chambers of Commerce has been quoted as saying that the UK economy is on the “brink of leaving recession”. It’s about time. Celebratory bonus anyone?

Zizzi

Throughout January Zizzi is offering a pasta, pizza or risotto for £1 when you order another main meal. Just don’t use it as an excuse for two dinners…

Going Down:

World Cup Song

The FA has confirmed that for the first time since 1966 there is
not going to be an official song to mark England’s World Cup campaign in South Africa. A good omen perhaps?

Spotify

The University has banned the use of the the popular music sharing website Spotify due to the excessive bandwidth that the program requires. God forbid we have to start buying music…

RAG

Oxford Raise and Giving raised only £24,314 in comparison to the £974,048 raised by Loughborough. According to Charles Bailey, the organiser of the RAG Ball, the collegiate system leads to Oxford students going to college events rather than university ones.

Hangover Cures

According to James Garbutt of the University of North Carolina, none of the hundreds of proposed hangover cures have been scientifically proven to work. Not that 9am lectures hadn’t told us that already…

Fine Dining: Oxford Romance

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I wasn’t very good with girls when I was at school. Attracting them wasn’t the problem; most schoolgirls, in my experience, would happily lock lips with any boy in possession of a driving license and a fake ID. The problem was, once I had them, I never really knew what to do with them.

When you spend your days almost exclusively with other boys, playing sports, Playstation, and sports on the Playstation, interspersed with the odd bit of illicit drinking in Regent’s Park, the prospect of being expected single-handedly to entertain an attractive female, possibly for whole hours at a time, is a faintly terrifying one.

Most of the time, I failed miserably. My first ever date was lunch at Pizza Hut (‘all you can eat lunchtime buffet, only £5.99!’) followed by ninety minutes in the back row of an otherwise entirely empty cinema, watching people being killed by a giant tidal wave.

The relationship didn’t last. Nor had I improved much a couple of years later, when I took a very pretty girl to a very expensive lunch at a very sophisticated Japanese restaurant, only to discover that we were the only patrons.

We spent the next two hours listening to our awkward small talk (‘sunny, today, isn’t it?’) echoing around the enormous room while a bored-looking waitress hovered twelve inches away, interrupting every two minutes to ask whether we wanted the bill yet. I’m not sure I ever saw that girl again, either.

I struck gold in my first year of sixth form. After spending six hours wandering around Oxford on an open day, I invited an acquaintance who lived nearby to have dinner with me at Chiang Mai Kitchen on the High Street. It was possibly the most romantic evening of my life: a beautiful medieval building; a quiet corner of a small, wood-panelled room filled with beautiful couples gazing devotedly into each other’s eyes; light, witty conversation over an exquisite prawn curry and a bottle of Riesling, followed by a night of passionate fumbling atop New College Mound.

I was in love – not with the girl, who soon faded away into ‘let’s still be friends’- but with the restaurant.

I was so enraptured by the memory of that happy evening that for almost three years afterwards I never went back, because it could never be quite as good as I remembered.

But this week I did. Chiang Mai is a Thai place hidden down an alleyway off the High Street opposite Nero’s, and you could easily go through your entire time in Oxford not even realising it existed. It’s in a rickety wooden building that used to be a Private Hall, with a wonderful giant wooden door that looks like it hasn’t been changed in five hundred years.

We went on a Monday lunch. This is generally the quietest time of the week for restaurants, but there were three other tables occupied, one by a large and rowdy group of tutors discussing the merits of nuclear energy versus renewables. Not quite the same atmosphere as last time, then.

The food was still good though. Steamed pork dumplings came wrapped in a wrinkly batter that made them look like testicles afflicted by a particularly nasty venereal disease, but they tasted great, as did vegetable spring rolls dipped in some kind of sugary sauce. Minced chicken with basil, chilis and an oyster sauce was fiery enough to justify the two chillis warning symbol on the menu.

The only slightly duff note was a dish of stir-fried squid with garlic and pepper: a steaming mound of white tentacles which wobbled on the plate, and had a disconcertingly slimy texture. This, I feel, is the wrong way to serve it; squid is just one of those foods that should always be deep-fried in batter, like Scottish Mars Bars.

There’s a cheap lunch menu, but the best time to go is undoubtedly dinner, when you can gaze lovingly into each other’s eyes and dream happily of the night to come.

 

Scenic view: the Honduras

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7.30 am. The army trucks rolled up into the square. Troops of fully-armoured riot police offloaded and took station. As I looked on, I could feel the uncomfortable dampness of my sweaty t-shirt against my back – but maybe that was more a result of the 30 degree heat that never relented.

I’d arrived in Honduras during the military coup of President Zelaya, so the country’s second city and financial capital, San Pedro Sula, was on high alert. The previous night had borne a 6pm curfew to stem potential gang violence. In any case, I was sure that I’d read that San Pedro had the second highest murder rate in the world. So, if anything, the presence of the riot police made me feel more secure.

Not that first impressions backed my preconceptions, mind you. Despite the armed guards outside every bank and the 8ft jail bars around every home, the overwhelming feel of the city was not of danger, simply ‘American’; but a laid-back, Caribbean kind of American. In fact, the whole country seemed to delight in megahighways and fast food joints, and every town and corner shop was ‘sponsored’ by both Coca Cola and Pepsi!

Yet that’s part of the reason I was there: to enjoy and explore the ‘differentness’ Honduras had to offer. To me, stretching outside your comfort zone to embrace and relish contrast makes for the real thrill of travel.

Indeed, taking an impulsive bus ride to a town I’d never heard of, missing the ‘stop’ and ending up in a Grand-Theft-Auto-esque run-down beachside city in the shadow of night is something I’d dread at home, but enjoy (with hindsight) when abroad!

Equally, local food is something to indulge in. I still miss balaeadas – the Honduran flour tortilla, refried bean and scrambled egg snack that made a cheap and tasty meal, and the crimson-coloured banana soft drinks that suggested Latin American food-colouring regulations are nowhere near as strict as ours.

Such variety of life was no more evident than in the Mesoamerican cloud forest in which I was on a biodiversity research expedition – the main focus of my trip. Here, stick insects the length of your arm, transparent frogs and finger-length crickets that made a finger-lickin’ treat were among the natural highlights. And I shall always remember the night hikes on which every step yielded a novel invertebrate or amphibian that looked stolen from a sci-fi movie! In contrast, collecting and measuring over 1200 leaves and rolling balls of horse excrement constituted the mundane, but necessary reality of biological research.

Accessing data in the remote field is a physical challenge in itself. We climbed up near vertical canyons, scrambled along river beds like kids in the Wacky Warehouse, and got drenched by tropical ‘power shower’ downpour. All on a diet of cabbage soup, rice and kidney beans that hungered us to the extent of naming the best-looking quartet of mangy feral chickens around camp the ‘edible four’. Perhaps local food isn’t something to indulge in after all!

But as I swung in my hammock in the remote forest camp, enjoying nature’s music accompanied by a babbling, thriving stream, I realised that the planet we all share is so valuable and so fascinating. Whether that be the contrasting anthropogenic infrastructure and culture that can add so much to our travels, or the natural splendour we too often take for granted, we should admire the variety of life rather than fight over it.

 

The rise of fast fashion

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Life is (to steal, and slightly modify, a line from Kanye West) becoming faster, cheaper, quicker, shoddier… and as disposable as the carton your McDonald’s fries come in.

Shopping is no longer about what we need, but what we decide we want: over Christmas, Tesco launched the VX1i ‘Party Phone’, which comes SIM-free as an alternative second phone, so that you don’t risk losing your more expensive one during enthusiastic dancing – it’s the ultimate throwaway phone for night-time partying.

The most shocking story of our disposable nature, of this new decade, comes from the NY Times, alleging that bin bags full of clothes that had not been sold by an H & M in America had been found slashed with razors and disposed of outside, so that they would be rendered unwearable.

That’s a pretty extreme example, but when it comes to clothes, we seem to be environmentally and ethically at our worst, without even realizing it. Fashion magazines used to revolve around fashion seasons – winter and summer – and we’d dress and buy accordingly. Now, we’re offered new, affordable apparel every few weeks – we can buy a ‘capsule’ wardrobe for our two week holiday, and not mind if we leave behind a few items, whilst the celebrities that litter the fashion magazines are never

seen in the same outfit twice (and if they do, the photos are printed side by side with damning red rings, citing their reusing crime). We are becoming a society obese on the clothing equivalent of fast food.

A new action plan was launched at the beginning of last London Fashion Week to make fashion more sustainable and less environmentally damaging, by Defra Minister Lord Hunt. Environmentally, clothing and textiles have an extremely high impact, exacerbated by the high volumes of clothes we consume in the UK. The Defra ‘Sustainable Clothing Roadmap’ has brought together over three hundred organisations, from high street retailers, to designers and textile manufacturers to battle the environmental impacts of ‘throwaway fashion’. Companies and some of the biggest names in the industry have signed up to take action to make a significant difference to the environmental footprint and social inequalities, which blight some of the production and retail processes of consumer fashion.

We buy, we wear (maybe once, maybe not at all) and we replace, on an epic scale. In the UK alone about 2 million tonnes of clothing, with the enormous value of £23 billion, is purchased every year, with the discount fashion sector (characterised by low-cost, short-lifetime garments) making up one-fifth of the UK market. This is an area of the shopping sector that has grown, beyond belief, and beyond most people’s expectations. What’s worse is that, according to DEFRA, 74% of the 2 million tonnes ends up in landfill every year, when it could be recycled or reused. Instead, it sits, attempting to biodegrade in a mass of synthetic fabrics and cheap material.

Obviously, a lot of the blame has fallen upon the ‘pile ‘em high, sell ‘em quick’ retailers, and whilst, obviously, the more expensive end of the market may be just as guilty, you’re far more likely to hold onto a t-shirt that you had to scrimp and save for. In the past five years, with the rise of ‘value retailers’ such as Primark, H&M and TK Maxx, not to mention supermarket fashion ranges which you can buy on your weekly shop, the price of clothing in the UK has plummeted by up to 25 per cent. For this reason, textiles are fast becoming the biggest waste product in the UK.

TRAID is a textile recycling charity, aiming to divert clothing from landfill sites and back out into the public. Leigh McAlea, TRAID’s Communication Manager, said that TRAID ‘has noticed a rise in cheaper quality and poorly made clothing over the past two years. The majority of this clothing comes from high street fast fashion retailers such as Primark. It is very common to get clothing on the belt from low cost retailers which has never been worn and the labels still attached.’ The fact that it is cheap doesn’t necessarily mean they can’t reuse it, what is true however is that the reuse value is negligible as such cheaply made clothing wears so quickly. This of course impacts on the amount of textile going to landfill as more people buy more clothing that simply isn’t made to last.

According to Leigh, ‘It also marks a trend that TRAID is sorting more quantity for less quality’, which it appears, we are doing as consumers as well. The poor quality of our cheap fashion fixes has caused the bottom to drop out of the recycled textile industry and the value of recycled material has fallen by 71 per cent over the past fifteen years.

Low prices encourage waste – who hasn’t blown £15 in Primark for that one-off bop outfit that, more often than not, is in the end used as a sponge for those hastily prepared JCR ‘cocktails’ and thrown away at the end of the night. Not so far removed from that, were the dresses that melt in the wash that were last year’s environmentally friendly innovation to hit the world of fashion. They were the fruit of the Wonderland project, a unique collaboration between a pioneering British designer and scientists at the country’s leading universities, which sought a solution to the ‘Primark effect’. The team created plastic dresses – made out of a similar material to washing capsules – that disappear on contact with water, with the aim of drawing attention to the problem of waste plastic.

This is all very good and well, but we all like new clothes – and there’s still not anything very sexy about being dressed in clothes you’ve had for years, seldom washed because you want to preserve them for as long as possible. There is no green language that is socially acceptable and fun. Who wants to be an ‘environmentalist’, dressing in hemp and telling everyone that if you don’t wash your hair for a month, it actually starts to self-clean?

Sexing up recycling is always going to be a tall order, but things are being done to change environmentalism’s image. Clothes-swapping has been re-branded as ‘swishing’ and it’s all the rage. There’s an official website and the International Day of Swishing has just passed. Having less of better stuff is a more tasteful, healthy and moral option. The alternative is ‘fast fashion’, which is tempting, briefly appetizing, but ultimately not very satisfying. 

The fear of the unknown

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The Burqa debate reopened this month when the French Government unveiled plans to ban the item of clothing from being worn on public transport and in civil buildings. Denmark have been quick to follow suit; its Prime Minister Lars Loekke Rasmussen announced this week that “the burqa and the niqab have no place in Danish society. They symbolise a view of women and humanity that we totally oppose and that we want to combat in Danish society.” 

The centre-right politician added that “Danish society rests on being a positive [one] in which we meet each other at eye level, in which we can see each other and in which we gesticulate with each other,” It is a flimsy excuse for an argument, made even sillier for the fact that almost no one wears the burqa in Denmark. The burqa issue in France is at least one that carries weight because it involves hundres of thousands, and because the veil does contravene the French notion of “Lacaite”, or “Secularism” – a principle that is sacred to the nation. By contrast, Rasmussen has launched a pointless “us liberals versus them” campaign against the 200 veiled women who live in Denmark, citing vague principles that barely conceal the islamophobia behind the statement. 

Of course this isn’t an isolated incident of public figures across Europe promising to protect their country’s “liberalism” from the “imperial” Muslim world. Geert Wilders, the Dutch populist politician has been pushing not only to ban the Burqa, but also the Koran, Mosques and, well, most Muslims. And though his demagogic manner and insistance on associating all Muslims with terrorists is generally met with derision and disgust, it is no lie that his fanbase is increasing. It is becoming more and more acceptable to depict Islam as an inherently dangerous and hate fueled religion. And the Mineret ban vote in Switzerland is yet another example of the twisted “liberal” logic that makes it o.k. to want to blot out any signs of Muslim life in Europe. The truth of the matter is that this has much less to do with Islamic fundamentalists, 9/11, and so on, and alot more to do with the  petty minded “Fear of the Unknown” complex. As was epitomised by something a German Turisk taxi driver told me the other day; “I won’t even be considered for a flatshare. My family have lived here for four generations. And still, we’ll never be Germans. They just take one look at my name or my face and decide I’m a foreigner. “