Saturday 5th July 2025
Blog Page 2321

Exhibition review: Little Black Dress, at the Brighton and Hove Museum and Gallery

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That iconic garment, the Little Black Dress, or 'LBD', was born in the 1920s when Coco Chanel took dreary, black, mourning dress and created a modern, chic classic, known as 'Chanel's Ford'. Like the car, the LBD was an immediate success, appealing and available to women of all social classes.

This exhibition, curated by leading fashion designer Andrew Fionda (of the label Pearce II Fionda) charts the history of the LBD, its changing form, and lasting appeal. Beside exquisite examples of tailoring from the 1920s and 1930s are contemporary interpretations of the classic, including a long dress covered in volcanic eruptions of starched fabric. Such pieces challenge the tradition of beautiful cut, understated decoration and simple design.

Haute couture mixes with high street fashion, with pieces by Giles Deacon, Barbara Hulanicki (Biba), Betty Jackson, John Galliano, Nicole Farhi, and Zandra Rhodes. The dramatic floor-length fishtail dress by Julien MacDonald and worn by Victoria Beckham in his book, That Extra Half Inch, is one of the more attention-grabbing pieces; there are also dresses once worn by Joanna Lumley, Joan Collins and, of course, it being Brighton, drag queen Dave Lynn.

Andrew Fionda takes a more personal approach to the LBD than its obvious association with celebrity figures, exploring its significance in the lives of local women. In a short video, several women tell the tales of their very own LBD: where they got it, where they wore it, how it makes them feel. This is certainly a more imaginative exploration of the wearers of the LBD than simply displaying images of the ubiquitous Audrey Hepburn (don't worry – there is still one to be seen), but I can't say that the story of Kate's 50 pence charity shop bargain – which she altered and is now perfect – is wildly captivating.

'Little Black Dress' will appeal to anyone who has ever looked at a still from Breakfast at Tiffany's with envy, or longed for just a little bit of 'chic' in their life. It re-affirms the LBD as a rare garment that can make any woman look and feel good, one which seems likely to remain a fashion icon in its own right well into the future.

By Ruth Simister

'Little Black Dress' is on at the Brighton & Hove Museum and Gallery until June; there are various related events throughout this period. Free admission.

Alternative Clubbing: Narcissists

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Have you had your fill of Filth? Is the ‘VIP’ area at the Bridge starting to lose its appeal? Are you feeling unable to face another bop standing in the corner sucking face with your college dad to the sound of ‘hilarious’ 90’s pop ‘classics’? Then Cherwell24 is here to save you. Every week this term, we’ll be reporting on a regular Oxford club night that offers something different from the run of the mill, something beyond the dreaded ‘cheese’, something that, just maybe, you might even consider dancing to sober… Not that sobriety has much to do with Wednesdays at Baby Love bar, situated on King Edward Street, just off the High. Every other week, this cocktail-bar-and-club plays host to Narcissists, which is pretty much the daddy of the indie/alternative clubbing scene around these parts. If you’re the kind of indie kid who likes your guitars squashed up against your electro beats in the company of girls with unfeasibly cool hair and emotionally scarred, heavily mascara-ed boys, chances are you’ll fit in here. So, exactly what kinds of sounds keep the regulars coming back? The emphasis is firmly on the danceable. A typical night sees the likes of LCD Soundsystem and Le Tigre merge naturally into harder, scuzzier electro sounds as the night wears on, and singalong Strokes songs followed by a remix of 1-2-3-4 (that song off the iPod ads) where Leslie Feist’s vocals float over a sea of brooding techno. A girl stands outside the bar with the smokers. Why does she come to Narcissists? “It makes me feel wholesome.” Wholesome? “Yeah – there are a lot of pretentious indie people here, and I feel wholesome compared to them.” She pauses. “Like – like wholemeal bread, you see.” She staggers back into the club. Some would argue that, as it enters its fourth year, being a self-confessed Narcissist has become passé. True, the cloakroom isn’t free anymore, and the drinks were never cheap, and chances are you’ll hear roughly the same tunes and see roughly the same faces every time you go. But they’re not bad tunes, really, are they? They’re not bad faces. Not compared with the Baywatch theme song at Filth.

Union Re-Poll in Turmoil

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The Union re-poll due to take place at the end of 2nd week following presidential candidate Krishna Omkar’s disqualification by an election tribunal has been plunged into turmoil after the Returning Officer received no valid nominations.

The unprecedented situation has forced Alex Priest, the current Returning Officer, to issue an interpretation and ruling on how the Union will now proceed, as there are no rules specifically covering this outcome.

In what appears to be an attempt to avoid suggestions of undemocratic handling of the elections, the Returning Officer’s ruling has gone contrary to what had been expected by those close to the Union and what had been reported in the press.

The original tribunal hearing disqualified Krishna Omkar from last term’s overturned Union presidential election, and forbade him from running in any subsequent Union elections.

The tribunal board directed that a re-poll for the position of President should be held, and laid down criteria for eligibility, namely that those eligible to run for President at the original election, except Krishna Omkar, would be eligible to run in the re-poll.

Charlotte Fischer and Claire Hennessey, who was Secretary in Michaelmas, were both eligible to be nominated under the criteria. However, Fischer resigned from Standing Committee on Monday of 1st week, citing sexual harassment from committee members and “personal attacks”.

As Cherwell24 has now learned, Hennessey has not stepped forward to run, leaving no nominations for election.

In the absence of nominations, it was expected that current Librarian Ed Waldegrave would assume the presidency for Trinity Term, with the subsequent elevation of officers below him.

However, the Returning Officer has instead directed that the re-poll be deemed to have not occurred, and so another poll will be held, with nominations closing Friday of 3rd week.

To ensure a contested election, the eligibility criteria have been relaxed so that more candidates are able to be nominated. Cherwell24 is aware of at least six potentially eligible candidates.

In the interpretation and ruling, the Returning Officer notes that, “The democratic election of Officers – especially that for the Office of President – is a fundamental principle which underpins all for which this Society stands.”

He goes on to state that he believes that the ruling is in the “best interests of [the] Society and its members.”

Sources close to the Union have told Cherwell24 that elements within the Union had “exerted extreme pressure” on the Returning Officer to avoid holding another poll and instead appoint Ed Waldegrave as President for Trinity Term. However, when contacted, the Returning Officer was unable to comment.

It is, however, understood that the original tribunal and appellate board chairmen, as well as several other senior figures within the Union, were in favour of a democratic solution.

Nominations for the poll open Friday of 2nd week and close 3pm Friday of 3rd week. Presidential elections for Michaelmas term are still scheduled to take place in 7th week this term.

Organ players

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 Lewis Goodall comments on the opt-out organ donation proposal.  

At last, some bold progressive thinking from the Brown government. Attempting to shake off the malaise that gripped what is being perceived in some quarters as his increasingly embattled administration during the dying weeks of 2007, the Prime Minister has got the New Year off to a good start by unveiling his new policies on organ donation over the weekend. Heeding the advice of the Chief Medical Officer, Sir Liam Donaldson, the government is proposing that everyone should be presumed to give consent for their organs to be used after death to save the lives of others. This is a reversal from the current ‘opt-in’ situation where a person has to give their permission before death and quite different from those of Continental Europe where the ‘opt-in’ approach is still the method of choice.  

In 2008 it is estimated that 8,000 people will wait for organs (a number increasing by around 8% a year), but a mere 3,000 will actually receive a transplant. 10,000 more could have their sight saved or long-term disease cured. Many die after a long period of appalling suffering, just waiting for someone – anyone – to show a bit of compassion and generosity. To most people, the way forward seems obvious and according to opinion polls – it is. 90% of people favour organ donation. Interestingly, only 25% actually get around to doing it. The government’s proposals overcome that most intractable problem: apathy. In so doing, an extra 1,000 people could be saved each year.  

Someone once said (well, Stalin actually) that one life mattered but 1,000 was just a statistic. The next time the Church of England, the Daily Mail and other narrow minded right-groups choose to criticise the scheme on the grounds of immorality (the war-cry has already emerged from the Bishop of Southwark) they would do well to remember that these are people’s fathers and mothers, sons and daughters. These aren’t Cold War statistics – these are people. I ask the aforementioned Bishop: where exactly is the morality in condoning the death of thousands for the sake of some lofty arcane relic of theological principle? The bottom line is plain for all to see – the dead do not need their organs. We should seize the one positive that can possibly come from death: life for others. 

Equally objectionable to me is the idea that somehow an opt-out system of organ donation is the latest devilish wheeze in the so-called Nanny State’s unending quest to see and control all. Conservative blogger Iain Dale talks of ‘Brown wanting to nationalise our bodies’, sentiments echoed by Tory Health Spokesman Andrew Lansley. How quickly the ‘new’ Cameronite Conservative Party retreats to its old sins, pandering to their reactionary base and thundering on about points of facetious ideology on the rights of the state over its citizens’ bodies. Were it a totally compulsory system, one might see some truth in this; as the proposals stand however, should a citizen find the idea of saving another’s life after death totally repugnant, they need only tick a box and the thought need never cross their minds again. If Cameron’s brand of ‘Compassionate Conservatism’ were worth the time of day they would and should support the measure when the time comes in the House of Commons. 

Critics point out, four years ago, the government had precisely the opposite position, bleating about the immorality of such proposals. Tony Blair himself led the campaign against such a measure. However, Blair is history now and a sinner that repenteth is welcomed. Whether for reasons of politics or compassion (perhaps both) Brown has finally seen the light. All those that value human life should welcome his conversion.

This comment represents the views of the writer and not of Cherwell24

Fit College: Magdalen or Oriel?

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See pictures here…Magdalen?
Or Oriel? 
 

Introducing… Ben Plant, Oxford University Surfing Club

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How many members do you have?

About 200.

Who does the OUSC represent and why should we sign up?
The Surf Club’s a great way to meet new people who are already stuck into their surfing or beginners interested in getting into it. We run at least one long-weekend trip a term down to Newquay or Croyde, involving surfing by day and debauched antics by night. We also put on a variety of events in Oxford during term time like our ‘sexy surfer’ themed Christmas curries. Why do you think OUSC is important?
Despite the lack of waves anywhere near Oxford, the Oxford Surf Club’s important in providing people with a chance to get on the water once a term and to provide a good atmosphere for newbies to learn in. Also we’re pretty key players in keeping the clothing producers of Oxford in business with our ’08 stash range now out!
 As a member of OUSC, what has been your most memorable experience so far?
There’ve been lots of great moments – Newquay never fails to show students a good time but attending Thirst in a  wetsuit was certainly my most memorable experience – and not in a good way.
 So what does OUSC have planned for 2008?
We’ve got the BUSA Surf Championships in Newquay coming up towards the end of term and potential plans for a Varsity match to justify our half-Blue status.
 Tell us something you didn’t/couldn't say at Freshers' Fair.
We failed to get much of a presence at Freshers' Fair this year but I would stress to everyone thinking of joining that it’s a good laugh- go for it now while the club’s here to help and remember that sharks are not a problem in Cornwall.
 For more information visit http://users.ox.ac.uk/~surf/ or email [email protected]Interview by Louise Collins

Editorial: Sects and the city

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The Bishop of Rochester has said that Islamic extremism is creating ‘no-go areas’ for non-Muslims in Britain. Muslim communities, he says, are making it difficult for those of other races to live or work amongst them. He criticised the adhan – the call to prayer – and suggested that some parts of the country are too dangerous for non-Muslims to enter.Leaders at Oxford Central Mosque have said that they would like to broadcast a call to prayer three times a day, at sociable hours, and are perfectly within their rights to do so. The majority of us, with no great religious feeling, might be allowed a grumble about noise pollution, but to raise a fuss in a city plagued at all hours by the clangour of bells surely stinks of hypocrisy.Cowley is often celebrated for its alternative, ‘ethnic’ vibe – a reputation it has gained partly thanks to the high number of immigrants in the area – and along with the sheesha pipes and falafel come Islam and the adhan; we cannot pick and choose.Just last week it emerged that two local writers have penned a screenplay entitled ‘The Cowley Road Drinking Club,’ which aims to celebrate the quirkiness of the area before eccentric local shops are replaced by identikit chain stores. Inevitably, the writers have their own romanticised vision of Cowley, slightly askew from the reality. Cowley Road has long been the preserve of middle class students whose parents happily pay for them to ‘slum it,’ Cowley-style. A few Polish groceries do not make a truly multi-cultural society. If anything, we need more mosques to balance out the churches.Nor is Cowley the last word in sink-estate dystopia. For true grit, head to Blackbird Leys. It adds a little perspective when moaning about grimy college rooms.The relative aesthetics of these areas are debatable, but surely drugs and dole queues are more pressing problems than the adhan. If we’re really after a vibrant and representative society, Oxford’s sandy spires can surely make room for a single minaret.Laura Pitel and Tom Seymour, Cherwell editors

Student soapbox: Social good goes beyond working for charities

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The careers that first come to mind for most Oxford students are easy to predict and fall into quite traditional categories. Yet, what job to enter is a big decision and before we decide we might want to pause for a minute to think about what is happening to society around us.So, for starters, positive social and environmental change isn’t happening fast enough: the inequality gap between rich and poor is widening in Britain and worldwide; we are as much as 100 years behind meeting the 2015 Millennium Development Goals; and pronouncements by scientists about the state of the environment grow ever gloomier.Do we really care? Maybe some don’t. But for those that do what can they do when deciding their career paths? As the Oxford Hub is proving, the options are exciting, but mind-boggling.Despite the ideal, we can’t deny that opportunities outside of traditional careers seem few and far between. Jobs in the charitable sector, for example, are rarely graduate level and are advertised on a fairly ad-hoc basis. Firstly, however, there are signs that the ‘information gap’ is closing and it is now much easier to find out about entry-level jobs when they appear.The Oxford Hub is currently in the early stages of a partnership with JustMeans, a new organisation advertising jobs that bring about positive social and environmental change – whether commercial or charitable. Sites like this, if successful, could go a long way to introducing people to a whole range of socially responsible jobs.Secondly, as JustMeans makes clear, working for social good obviously doesn’t just mean working for a charity. The Oxford Hub will be exploring this in more detail on Wednesday 2nd week when we are hosting a panel with representatives from TeachFirst and Tesco that explores ‘Different Models of Sustainable Change’.Doing good needn’t just be about standing on street corners shaking a tin or holding a megaphone. It could involve a career in the charitable, public or private sector. It could make you millions; it could make you very little. So, as the poet Mary Oliver wrote: “Tell me. What is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?” The possibilities are limitless, but hopefully you’ll have something interesting and meaningful to show for it. A good bit of background research should leave you with a whole range of options.
 
Adam O’Boyle is Manager of the Oxford Hub, a group which aims to help Oxford students get involved  with causes. For more information visit  www.oxfordhub.org
 Cherwell24 is not responsible for the content of outside links

I want to break free

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Collections are over, Oxford’s wetter than the North Sea and the transition from Hollyoaks addict to workaholic is not going smoothly. Time to get out, says Cassie Lester.
You may have only been back a few days – a week, tops – but the dreaming spires may already be looking a little shop-worn and less desirable than when you were safely back at home. And yet you’ve got seven weeks left to go; so treat yourself and take a few breaks. After all, the city’s not going anywhere, except maybe underwater. The easiest break from endless reading lists is the obvious shopping trip, with Bicester village only 15 miles away (and still in the sales!). Buses go every half hour so it’s great for last minute, ‘got to get out of this place’ snap decisions. Unfortunately they don’t accept Bod cards for student discounts so you might just have to press your nose up against shop windows like little orphan children in a Dickensian Christmas. Don’t fancy shopping? Even with your overdraft magically erased by the wonder of the thrice-yearly student loan?One of the good things about Oxford being such a tourist hub is the plethora of ways to get in and out of the city.  You’re probably unlikely to be using Oxford’s airport for your cheapo weekend breaks – only available for private planes, apparently – but there are a handful of bus and coach companies willing to take you down to London for a day trip. From there you can catch the Eurostar and get out of England (returning before Monday lectures, presumably) or just enjoy our glorious capital. Steer clear of all the cultural stuff; you left Oxford to escape that, remember? It’s no sunnier or less wet in London but you can make believe you’re scuba diving in tropical climes at the London Aquarium, try on priceless jewels at New Bond Street’s luxury emporiums, take a night off from Filth and blow your loan on expensive cocktails in new nightclubs. If you’re prepared to spend several hours on a bus  just to get a break from Cornmarket Street, go check out the opposition in Cambridge. Although obviously inferior in every way, Cambridge does have an H&M, not to mention big, open parks – known as ‘pieces’ – that would be nice to sit in, presuming they’ve sent all their bad weather our way.Oxfordshire itself has a lot to offer, albeit in a Midsomer Murders kind of way. We’re incredibly close to the  Cotswolds, and to truly live out the mini-break fantasy, go for a drive to Great Tew (befriend someone with a car first, obviously). This village, which seems to have entirely avoided modernity or change, is a picturesque retreat from Oxford’s often oppressive grandeur. The roads are uneven and free from tarmac, back gardens take the shape of vast rolling fields, and their chickens really are free ranging. There is even a notice board in the centre of the village on which Great Tew’s residents commune with each other – they probably haven’t heard of mobile  phones yet. If embracing nature isn’t your thing, and free ranging chickens don’t turn you on, perhaps eating them will. Great Tew boasts The Falkland Arms; a beautiful sixteenth century building still run as a traditional pub. It has flagstone floors, oak beams and inglenook fireplaces too, and provides the perfect setting for dinner – slow cooked lamb shank with rosemary and garlic served on a bed of mash, for example – and award winning whisky and beer. On a Sunday at eight, traditional folk music adds to the rural experience.One useful piece of advice, however – if you plan to dine, and not just to look at Great Tew – is to book in advance at The Falkland Arms. Certainly the location is beautiful, but I now know rather more about it than I’d anticipated, since my ill-prepared boyfriend tried to restore his romantic credibility with a scenic walk, after finding the pub entirely booked up when we arrived at a prompt 7:30.
There it is, the world on offer; glam up those January blues any way you like. Don’t fancy any of the above? SAD and essay crises sapping you of the ability to move? You can always buy yourself some exotic looking pot plants,  switch on all the lights and pretend your bed is a deck chair somewhere in Barbados. Whatever your route, don’t be afraid to escape.

An organ is a gift, and not a right

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Changing the law on organ donation to one of presumed consent will mean that we are all organ donors unless we have formally registered an opt-out.Supporters argue that surveys show 80-90% saying that they are willing to donate their organs, while only one in four sign up to the donor register. Therefore, making donation the default position will actually fulfil the wishes of all those who don’t get round to recording them. There are serious question marks here. It may be that many of these people have no intention of donating but simply give a ‘feel good’ answer to a question in the street. A considered decision is a very different matter. The same problems of inertia and forgetfulness that may prevent us the willing from signing up will prevent the unwilling from opting out. The absence of refusal by no means signifies consent.Opting out transforms us from volunteers to conscripts unless we declare ourselves as conscientious objectors, who may well worry that we will suffer discrimination. Enthusiasts extol the example of Spain, with three times as many donated organs as Britain. But ten years after Spain changed the law to presumed consent, the donation rate was the same as ours.

Things only changed when a new head of transplantation changed the system so that Spain has three times the ICU beds and three times the transplant coordinators, as well as three times the donors. No coincidence! Without the necessary infrastructure, we can hardly expect the law to provide a quick fix.
It may instead backfire in a way that will be damaging to the health service. Patients and their relatives may fear that they are more valuable as potential donors than as expensive occupiers of much-needed beds.Organ donation is a gift that should be encouraged and facilitated in every way possible. It is not an obligation and many of us will resent the suggestion that our bodies belong to the state to be plundered for spare parts like used cars.

Joyce Robins is a co-founder of health watchdog Patient Concern