Tuesday, May 13, 2025
Blog Page 352

Delusions of grandeur: why Prada’s new advertising campaign does intellectual fashion a disservice

0

We fashion hobbyists face a continual struggle to justify to ourselves and others the time, consideration, and, of course, money we devote to what might seem a frivolous pursuit. Occasionally a moment of genius will capture the broader cultural consciousness – the 2018 Alexander McQueen documentary and its sensitive reverence for the runway experience comes to mind. However to most people, most of the time, luxury fashion is an egregious parade of elitism designed by shallow, out-of-touch narcissists for other shallow, out-of-touch narcissists. The clothes themselves come across more likely to induce sniggers than admiration.

The difficulty lies in the fact that they’re quite frequently correct. Earlier this month the case for fashion as a meaningful endeavour suffered another, particularly galling knockback when Prada revealed the advertising campaign for their Spring/Summer 2021 women’s collection. The collection itself, debuted back in September, was the first from their new all-star directive duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Many found it did not live up to the enormous anticipation which preceded it, but was by no means a failure. The longstanding Prada shawl-clutching motif made a welcome return, while the house’s logo was creatively reproduced in negative through cut-outs in the garments, and Simons acolytes will have enjoyed the introduction of his signature graphic prints. Nothing revelatory, but a serviceable offering which mediated the two iconic designers’ respective codes. At the beginning of a new era for the house, it felt like a respectful nod to the practices which elevated it to the superpower it is today.

So, how should this long-awaited meeting of two of fashion’s most acute and dependably innovative minds be marketed to the broader consuming public? The industrious team up at Prada HQ, apparently possessed by the visionary spirit of Don Draper himself, were more than up to the challenge and dreamed up a daring strategy of quite frightening ingenuity. The solution, naturally, was to denigrate the intelligence of their consumer base with a series of pseudo-deep ruminations. Nothing drums up desire like feeling patronised.

One reads: “Does ‘cloud’ make you think of data or sky?” Profound in 2014, perhaps. Another asks: “Is nature out there or in here?” Hmmm. I wonder. A call-back to the antique nature vs nurture debate regarding the cultivation of virtue, no doubt. A model lost in thought (and in a very nice coat) has his image overlaid with text reading: “Can something be truly new?” A searching assessment of the limitations of innovation within a tradition-based medium, I see, I see. I came for the knits but I’m staying for the knowledge. With each question (and there are a lot) is a prompt to provide our own answers at Prada.com.

This is all, of course, vacuous nonsense. No doubt we are supposed to conceive of the project as a striking examination of a modern world in which our vernacular is in constant flux, where concrete knowledge has been banished, and where our online life now informs our ‘real’ one more than the other way around; instead it reads as a series of *hits blunt* memes. As one editor aptly tweeted in response to the campaign: “Oh ffs. Our industry really is beyond parody.” “Did Jaden Smith write this copy [sic]” asked someone else. I personally experienced distressing flashbacks to the brand’s S/S 20 advertising campaign, which toyed with PRADA as an acronym for similarly vapid inanities like “Perhaps Romance Always Desires Another”. Whatever that means.

What examples like this do – surface-level intellectualisations of collections which lack more than a hint of subversion – is discredit the entire medium. Lots of fashion is frivolous and a matter of pure aesthetics, and that’s just fine. We wouldn’t follow fashion if we didn’t enjoy beautiful clothes. But when they lay claim to a depth they do not obviously possess it makes it harder to take seriously those collections which do deserve to be treated seriously.

It’s why Nicolas Ghesquière plastering ‘VOTE’ over his S/S 21 Louis Vuitton womenswear collection (which would not even be released until a number of months after the US election it targeted) helps no-one. Instead, it turns more casual audiences away from the idea that fashion can ever be meaningfully political. In actuality, we are blessed with a raft of designers like Grace Wales Bonner and Thebe Magugu who consistently and subtly confront issues of identity politics, ancestry, sexuality, and race through their collections. The Prada campaign poses fatuous questions and offers no answers; buying and wearing the clothes of brands like those mentioned amounts to a tacit personal alignment far more valuable than intellectual ostentation.

It’s all the more disappointing for the fact that Mrs. Prada, especially, is one of fashion’s true thinkers, a reliable mine of cultural insight who rarely fails to produce an incisive quote. She has a PhD in Political Science, and her Prada, built on technical daring, has typically appealed to a considered but difficult-to-pin-down customer. Of her first collection she said, “It was not for the classic ones — there was something disturbing. And for the super trendy avant-gardists, it was too classic. I always like to move in that space, never please anybody.” Few living designers seem to possess the self-aware conceptual grounding which she has exhibited for over four decades.

The conversation broadcast after the S/S 21 show clearly indicates that Mrs. Prada and Mr. Simons thought more deeply about the issues posed by these sorts of questions than the advertisements suggest. Both are intentional people, and they do not usually produce shallow collections. Whether or not the clothes actually conveyed those intentions is a matter of opinion; perhaps something was lost in the translation from product to marketing, perhaps from conception to product. But whichever it is, the images of this campaign, set to grace billboards, screens, and bus-stops the world over, will only serve to alienate with their absurd self-seriousness rather than to provoke introspection. Sometimes fashion media derided by the wider public can be defended on the grounds that ‘they just don’t get it’ – on this occasion common sense proves an accurate bullshit detector.

Artwork by Emma Hewlett.

Revisiting ‘All The King’s Men’ in the Post-Trumpian Era

0

I sat down to write this in early January, after spending a few days obsessively doom-scrolling the news and witnessing the bloody siege of the U.S. Capitol on Jan. 6. The faces in the crowds burning with rage, the screams of ‘traitors’ and ‘treason’, the assaults of news reporters and above all the vandalising of this great historical monument leaves one breathless. I was stunned both that something so unabashedly crude could happen at the bastion of Western democracy but also at just how warped from reality former President Donald Trump’s mob of supporters have become. The scenes made me recall, and not for the first time this year, the similar events of Robert Penn Warren’s 1946 classic novel All The King’s Men, mid-way through which the central character governor Willie Stark faces impeachment following accusations of corruption, and subsequently a large crowd of loyalists flood the state capitol, chanting ‘Willie!’, all prepared to siege the legislature to protect their leader. When I first read All The King’s Men in 2016 these scenes seemed fantastical. Despite Trump’s growth in the polls, I could not believe that such mentality would grip a country obsessed with freedom. Revisiting Warren’s novel four years later, moments like this are hauntingly relevant.

Warren’s novel focuses on Stark’s transformation from an idealistic rural lawyer to ‘The Boss’: a ruthless populistic governor. Stark’s demagogic descent mirrors the story of the real Louisiana governor and then senator Huey Long, whose radical economic program and charismatic personality ensured his political domination until his assassination in 1935. Even the book’s title All the King’s Men, while a direct quote from the Humpty Dumpty fable, also acts as a reference to Long’s campaign song ‘Every Man a King’. The novel is a personal study of the forces of resentment, bigotry and paranoia that energise populist movements. While at the time Trump’s election seemed like an unprecedented phenomenon, Stark’s story shows the lasting appeal of the strong-man leader in times of economic turmoil. Nevertheless, Warren’s novel also provided me with hope that while demagogues may seem invincible, they and all they stand for can be defeated.

All the King’s Men is not merely the story of Willie Stark, as Warren’s world is brimming with fascinating side characters. One particularly interesting character is the narrator Jack Burden. Burden, like Stark, is transformed, over the course of the novel, morphing from an inquisitive historian and journalist to a nihilistic political fixer for Stark. Burden acts as the audience’s surrogate, and his journey resonated with me. While Burden has a uniquely intimate relationship with Stark, he is the embodiment of how the individual reacts to demagoguery: whether they embrace a cynical philosophy or strike against it, as Burden later does. Much like the 1920s and 30s, we live in a period of great change when all previously-held cultural norms and precedents seem to be shifting under our feet. All the King’s Men speaks to this time of turmoil, questioning how the individual responds to that, whether they challenge it or become corrupted by it.

Stark’s decline remains the most compelling part of the novel, with Warren’s use of symbolism and vivid detail painting the degradation of a humble family-man into a corrupt politician. Warren is keen to separate the idealistic ‘Willie Stark’ from the corrupted ‘Boss’, the same individual but rendered barely recognisable in a Jekyll-Hyde style transformation. Upon re-reading two of these key symbols of corruption I noticed was alcohol and sexuality, ever-present in showcasing Willie’s seduction by power. Warren was writing, and the novel is set, in the early post-Prohibition age, and alcohol abuse has infected society. The humble ‘Willie Stark’ is at first teetotal, with Jack Burden and Willie’s first meeting in 1922 being defined by Stark’s rejection of alcohol. Tiny Duffy, initially Willie Stark’ political opponent and later his sycophantic supporter, repeatedly attempts to force Willie to drink. But Willie stands his ground, refusing as his wife Lucy ‘doesn’t favour drinking… for a fact’. Willie’s teetotalism is a signifier both of his devotion to his wife and a reflection of his moral lawfulness, through his refusal to break the Prohibition. However, following learning of his betrayal by Tiny Duffy who used Willie in the election to ‘split the Hick vote’, alcohol becomes Willie’s gateway to corruption. Willie pours enough whiskey ‘to floor the Irish and drank it off neat’, passing out on his hotel bed. Warren presents Willie in a liminal state, describing him as a ‘carcass’, a ‘sap’ and dehumanising him as ‘it’. When Willie reawakens he has transformed in to ‘The Boss’ and depends on alcohol to function, drinking before all his public speeches to vitalise himself. Alcohol corrupts Willie and accelerates his transformation into ‘The Boss’. I only noticed on details like this when I recently revisited this novel years later, but it is small signifiers that made me appreciate Warren’s tale even more.

Sexuality and infidelity becomes another symbol of this patriarchal corruption. While Willie Stark was defined by his rural simplicity and loyalty to his wife, The Boss is repeatedly and carelessly unfaithful to his partners, both his wife Lucy and later his mistress and political confidant Sadie Burke. Like alcohol, sex becomes another signpost of corruption. Political potency grants ‘The Boss’ with the unquestioned ability to indulge in his desires, whether that be the ‘Nordic Nymph’ dancers in a night club or even Jack’s old partner and childhood friend Anne Stanton. Like the much repeated Lord Acton quote ‘absolute power corrupts absolutely’, The Boss’ political stature removes any sense of honour or morality, ensuring he objectifies all women in his vicinity. Indeed, The Boss’ infidelity is mirrored several times throughout the narrative, with Jack Burden’s ancestor Cass Mastern – whom he writes a historical dissertation about as a student – similarly being corrupted by sexual desire. It is here that the Trump comparisons become more sharper, with The Donald’s numerous infidelities mirrored by The Boss’. I really picked up on the themes of corruption when I revisited Penn Warren’s novel, and the manners in which it is expressed. Both alcoholism and infidelity are frequent motifs throughout the novel, gateways by which characters corrupt and in turn are corrupted.

Another interesting aspect of Warren’s novel, and something that mirrors our society, is how The Boss’ populism polarises and divides his state. Much like how dinner conversations and visits to family have recently been dominated by divisive political talk, politics has infested the world Warren presents. When Jack notes that he has seen a picture of the Boss ’in a thousand places, from pool halls to palaces’ it is not difficult to imagine he is living in Trump’s 2020. Indeed, Warren captures the politically charged atmosphere, and the growing toxicity in the air brilliantly. This is particularly demonstrated in a tense dinner scene where Jack defends The Boss’ methods, claiming if state government ‘….had been doing anything for the folks in it, would Stark have been able to get out there with his bare hands and bust the boys’. The painfully awkward silence, and Jack’s mother’s subsequent response that she did not know he ‘…felt that – that way!’ reveals how Jack’s allegiance to The Boss has poisoned all his relationships. Warren shows the cancerous effects of political polarisation and culture wars, how even familial bonds can be shattered by partisanship. The lines of partisanship are so present that they define us and divide us.

Warren is equally great at presenting a sense of blood in the air, and the paranoia rife throughout the state, particularly at The Boss’ rallies. While the humble Willie Stark delivered dull rallies based on his planned tax program, The Boss realises how the power of resentment and anger can capture an audience. He frequently insults the crowds at his rallies, calling them ‘red-necks’ and ‘hicks’ like himself, forging a bond with his crowds through anger against an elite. Much like the ‘lock her up’ chants that defined Trump’s 2016 rallies, The Boss similar derides his opponents, primarily Duffy, as ‘Judas Iscariot, the lick-spittle, the nose-wiper!’ Trump often resorted to violent imagery throughout his campaign, vilifying his opponents as unpatriotic traitors, while The Boss similarly calls for his ‘hicks’ to ‘Nail ‘em up!’ If his supporters refuse to, The Boss concludes they can ‘…hand me the hammer and I’ll do it with my own hand’. Political polarisation and the dehumanising of one’s opponents infects Warren’s world, much as it ripped apart Western liberal democracies.

Warren universalises his narrative through his narrator, suggesting that all conscious citizens in unstable liberal democracies are Jack Burden. The individual can either grow numb and cynical by this tyranny or challenge it. Ultimately, Jack rejects his harmful philosophy, accepting and embracing this past and moving away from this nihilistic worldview. It is this hopeful portrayal of citizenship that allows Warren’s novel to inspire and much as it horrifies. I cannot recommend All the King’s Men enough; as a book about populism and demagogues, it is unchallenged. Even beyond that, the novel’s frequent biting humour and Warren’s beautiful writing style is captivating. While some critics have concluded it merely to be a retelling of the Huey Long story, the book is so much more than that, grappling with challenging philosophical questions. It’s a book about perspective: what separates a sycophant and a public servant, a historian or a political fixer. More than that it’s a book about truth, and how far we should search for it. In the words of The Boss ‘man is conceived in sin and born in corruption and he passeth from the stink of the die to the stench of the shroud. There is always something.’

Image credit: Tyler Merbler. Image License: Wikimedia Commons.

The Most Anticipated Books of 2021

0

In light of the disaster that was 2020, many of us are looking towards 2021 with hope. Amongst the reasons to be excited about 2021 is a literary scene packed with talent. Some of the most celebrated names in the industry will be releasing new work, from Jhumpa Lahiri to Kazuo Ishiguro. These most anticipated fiction and nonfiction books of the year offer something for every reader: there is George Saunders’ advice on writing, Bill Gates’ guide to avoiding a climate disaster and Haruki Murakami’s mind-bending collection of short stories.

Like every industry in the last year, the publishing sector faced its own challenges with many 2020 releases delayed by months or years, causing ample concern for their authors. Nonetheless, with every year there is improvement when it comes to diversity in literature. Whilst unfortunately it still takes shocking events to trigger some kind of change or discussion, there is great progress heading our way with the 2021 releases.

The releases this year will see strong black characters taking the lead role, queer characters and their journeys, underrepresented identities and cultures being embraced, and much more. There is the continuing shift in perception of genres, including Murakami’s barrier-breaking work, with some excellent fiction offering a new take on genres altogether.

In all, the literature coming out to the public this year is exciting and refreshing. I have selected a total of 10 books being released this year and I hope that amongst them you find something to your liking which inspires you.

Fiction

In the world of fiction this year, there are some highly anticipated books from the likes of world-renowned authors such as Kazuo Ishiguro to newcomers such as Robert Jones, Jr and his debut novel ‘The Prophets’. Here is my selection of 5 must-reads being released this year.

Klara and the Sun by Kazuo Ishiguro

Klara and the Sun is Ishiguro’s first novel since winning the 2017 Nobel Prize for Literature. He introduces readers to a technologically advanced future charged with dystopian elements. The narrative follows an “Artificial Friend” named Klara who makes observations about the world from her position inside a store, where she hopes she’ll soon be chosen by a prospective owner. Akin to his previous trailblazing fiction, Ishiguro’s new release tackles key questions about humanity through a unique and discerning lens.

How Beautiful We Were by Imbolo Mbue

Imbolo Mbue’s powerful second novel, How Beautiful We Were, is set in the fictional African village of Kosawa. It tells of a people living in fear, amid environmental degradation wrought by an American oil company. The author charts the damage of this degradation on community and land whilst exploring the interplay between greed and colonialism. The author depicts what happens when the ruthless pursuit of profit comes up against one community’s determination to hold on to their ancestral land and a young woman’s willingness to sacrifice everything for the sake of her people’s freedom.

First Person Singular: Stories by Haruki Murakami

The eight short stories in this collection are all told by an elusive narrator, one who may or may not be the author himself. Murakami writes of love, jazz, childhood nostalgia, baseball, and more. Translated from Japanese by Philip Gabriel, First Person Singular is filled with Murakami’s classic use of magical realism and the stories are all told in his inimitable style. He blurs the lines between memoir and fiction throughout, which allows these stories to challenge the boundaries between our minds and the outside world.

Whereabouts by Jhumpa Lahiri

Whereabouts is the new novel from Pulitzer Prize-winning author Jhumpa Lahiri; it was first written in Italian and then translated by the author herself. The novel brims with the impulse to cross barriers and tells the story of a woman as she navigates the complexities of work, love and life in a beautiful yet lonely Italian city. A day at the sea forces her to change the way she views them all. Lahiri’s novel asks what it means to be transformed.

The Prophets by Robert Jones, Jr.

This novel is Robert Jones Jr’s debut and follows the lives of two young, enslaved men at the Halifax plantation. The deeply evocative narrative explores the theme of forbidden love as the threat of betrayal threatens the existence of the young lovers. Jones succeeds in carving a radiant love story out of the bleakest of landscapes. Indeed, in the letter to the reader at the start of the novel, Jones writes that he was compelled to write the story after hearing voices insisting he ask the question, ‘Did black queer people exist in the distant past?’ and then share the answer: of course they did.

Non-Fiction

Equally, in the non-fiction world, there are several enlightening titles to delve into this year. From the disciplines of Geography, to History, to Literary Criticism, there is a real variety. Here is my selection of 5 must-reads being released this year.

Empireland by Sathnam Sanghera

In his informative and illuminating new book, Sathnam Sanghera demonstrates how so much of what we consider to be modern Britain is actually rooted in our imperial past, from the foundation of the NHS to the nature of our racism and the exceptionalism that was a core part of the campaign for Brexit. Empireland urges readers to look at the contradictions in a Britain that both celebrates empire and doesn’t want us to look at it too closely. At a time of great division, when we are arguing about what it means to be British, Sanghera’s book urges us to address this contradiction. It is only by stepping back and seeing where we really come from that we can begin to understand who we are, as well as what unites us.

How To Avoid A Climate Disaster by Bill Gates

In this book, Bill Gates sets out a comprehensive, practical plan for how the world can get to zero greenhouse gas emissions in time to avoid a climate catastrophe. He uses his ten years of investigation into the climate crisis to explain the causes and effects of climate change and why we need to work towards a goal of net zero emissions of greenhouse gases. He outlines the route forward to change the course of the planet’s disastrous future.

A Swim in A Pond in the Rain by George Saunders

The Booker Prize-winning author of Lincoln in the Bardo invites us to consider what makes fiction work and why, through his dissection of Russian short stories. In seven essays, George Saunders examines works by Chekhov, Turgenev, Tolstoy and Gogol to underline the power of successful narrative writing. Saunders’ writing advice is wide-ranging, constituting a literary masterclass on what stories can tell us about ourselves, the world we live in, and how the mind itself works while reading.

The Anthropocene Reviewed by John Green

The Anthropocene Reviewed is a touching and insightful collection of essays from the bestselling author John Green, adapted from his critically acclaimed podcast in which he reviews different facets of the Anthropocene (from the QWERTY keyboard to Staphylococcus aureus). The Anthropocene is the current geological age, in which human activity has profoundly shaped the planet and its biodiversity.

How the Word Is Passed: A Reckoning With the History of Slavery Across America by Clint Smith

Clint Smith makes his non-fiction debut with How the Word Is Passed. In its simplest condensation, his book is the story of his visits to seven places that relate to the work and lives of enslaved people. Those places include Angola Prison in Louisiana; Blandford Cemetery in Virginia; Galveston, Texas, where the first Juneteenth was celebrated; and Wall Street. Smith brings readers to these sites as he explores the tortured histories each of these places holds. By doing so, the author asks us to reconsider what we think we know about American history and to take a closer look at the ways in which the legacy of slavery has impacted life today.

Image Credit: Pixabay

Monkey business: new research into novel decision making

0

A newly published article in Nature has shed some light on how we make decisions, and also the closeness of the relationship between humankind and our nearest evolutionary relatives. A team of psychologists led by Oxford Professor Matthew Rushworth, including Dr. Alessandro Bongioanni and Dr Miriam Klein-Flügge, have shown that the area of the brain activated when monkeys make decisions using novel information matches that in humans. 

Previous studies seemed to suggest that humans and monkeys used different areas of their brain for decision making, but the work of the Rushworth group demonstrated that this difference was not due to technological error, but a difference in the type of decisions being studied – novel decisions activate different neural regions to familiar decisions. Deciding to watch Bridget Jones’ Diary for the 3rd Valentine’s Day in a row, for example, activates the area of the brain associated with revisiting familiar information; a different system is activated when you have to choose between starting Bridgeton at the behest of your friends or starting a new murder mystery series.

The latter, involving novel rather than learned behaviour, requires the ability to speculate, hypothesise, and synthesise information, an ability typically assigned only to humans. According to Dr. Bongioanni in a blog post written about the paper, the conclusion of this study “bridges a gap between our knowledge of the human and the animal brains”: if rationality has been seen as a definitely human capacity, the demonstration of monkeys’ ability to undergo novel decision making in a way similar to humans raises some fascinating questions.

The capacity for making novel decisions is present in both humans and primates, so how important is it to our day to day lives? We’ve all been spending a lot more time at home recently, and it often feels as though our daily routines are leading to stagnation, rather than to novelty. 

Speaking to Cherwell, Dr. Bongioanni speculated that although this increase in the proportion of familiar to novel experiences is advantageous from a decision-making perspective, in that familiar environments allow our brain to expend less effort, it may have less ameliorative effects in other areas of neurological health: “[T]his may not be great for us as human beings,”, says Dr. Bongioanni, “because novelty is usually enriching and stimulating, and falling into routines is likely to cause a loss of motivation and even potential emotional disorders.” 

Although the neural circuitry for novel decision-making is similar in humans and primates, Dr. Bongioanni also pointed out that “boredom is a very specific human emotion”. Whilst it may be that the brains of the monkeys that took part in the experiment demonstrated the ability to respond to novel scenarios, animals “don’t get bored, they don’t mind repeating the same routines again and again”. 

Discussing the boredom that can arise when our routines begin to stagnate, Dr. Bongioanni noted that the proclivity of younger people to get bored more easily than older people is “evolutionary adaptive, because young people have more to learn”: the boredom we feel reading another comedian making another joke about banana bread or Tiger King is not only inherently human, but also a sign of our brain’s ability to constantly adapt to novelty.The area of the brain involved with novel decision making, according to Dr. Bongioanni, is far from isolated. Part of a wider neural circuit known as the Default Mode Network, this region of our brains activates “when we fantasise, or we think about ourselves or make future plans.” Perhaps we can combat the isolation and monotony of our current situation with exercise of the imagination, but Dr. Bongioanni stresses the cutting-edge nature of these ideas: “to understand precisely how this works will require a lot more research.” In the meantime, there’s always To All The Boys: Forever and Always to be cracking on with.

NHS COVID app may have prevented 200,000-900,000 infections

0

Researchers from the University of Oxford and the Alan Turing Institute have found that the NHS COVID-19 contact tracing app may have prevented 200,000-900,000 people becoming infected between October 1st 2020 and December 31st.

The app, which was downloaded onto 21 million smartphones out of 33.7 million compatible units, was used to alert users about the COVID-19 alert level in their area and whether they had come into contact with anyone who had tested positive for the virus. For every person who shared their positive test result with the app, an average of 4.4 people were alerted and told to self-isolate. Most alerts occurred during the second half of December when transmission rates increased, driven by the highly transmissible B117 variant.

Through analysing over 1.5 million notifications sent by the app, the researchers found that between 200,000-900,000 infections were averted. For every 1% of people who used the app, the number of cases fell by 0.8%-2.3%.

Christophe Fraser, Professor of Pathogen Dynamics at Oxford University’s Big Data Institute, said “Our work confirms the NHS COVID-19 app is sending exposure notifications to relevant contacts. Isolating when receiving a notification from the app contributes to preventing the spread of the virus.”

When the researchers compared two areas with similar demographics and levels of COVID restrictions, the area with the higher uptake of the app had significantly fewer COVID cases.

“The data also suggests that if all areas had reached a usage similar to the areas with the highest uptake, we would have had 200,000 to 400,000 fewer cases on top of those averted already” added David Bonsall, Principal Investigator at the Wellcome Centre for Human Genetics at Oxford University’s Nuffield Department of Medicine.

Research produced by the Alan Turing Institute led to the app being updated to better identify high-risk contacts, and increase the number of notifications sent out per confirmed test. Before the update, a 1% increase in the number of people using the app reduced cases by 0.3-1.1%. The update reduced cases further to 0.9-2.3%.

Dr Luca Feretti, a researcher at Oxford University’s Big Data Institute, stressed the need for international cooperation to improve the functioning of contact tracing apps, commenting “Our research shows that improving the app significantly increases the number of infections it can prevent. It is essential that countries share these improvements between national apps. The contact tracing apps need to remain tuneable so they adjust to using the best available technology to combat the evolving epidemic.”

Image: John Cameron via unsplash.com

Hundreds turned away from Oxford vaccination centre due to booking errors

0

Hundreds of individuals reported being turned away from Oxford’s Kassam Stadium COVID-19 vaccination hub on the weekend of February 13th because of a booking error where some social care professionals who were offered jab appointments were then told there is no vaccine for them.

While no definitive party has been identified as being responsible for the situation, confusion may have resulted from a list posted on the National Careers Service website that included early years providers, including nursery staff and childminders, as social care workers who were included in this phase of the roll out and were therefore offered appointments for jabs. Frontline community healthcare workers have already been given their vaccinations. Nonetheless, those who were turned away expressed their frustration.

An early years teacher from a north Oxford school called the system “chaotic shambles” for instance after being forced to leave on Saturday evening and a member of staff estimates that “at least 200 people” were turned away on Saturday alone, many of them having driven long distances from around the county.

The teacher told the Oxford Mail: “I am so angry. They have given people false hope and wasted our time. They had our contact details but made no attempt to let us know, which is a basic courtesy. They would rather sit back, let hundreds of people turn up and turn them away in the car park. Early year providers are working throughout the pandemic and are struggling at high risk without the financial support to buy appropriate PPE and sanitising products. Pre-schools have been open since September and we are all worried and anxious. Mistakes like this should not happen. The lack of respect for the early years sector is unforgivable. And we haven’t been given any indication of when we can actually get our jabs.”

A nursery worker Karen Ratcliff, 62 from Wantage was also turned away, and told the Oxford Mail: “Girls have had their holidays cancelled, they book a week off at home and then have to come in. We look after all these kids. It is really upsetting, I usually work part-time but I have been working full-time. I am 62, I do not want to be working full-time anymore. It is exhausting.”

Oxfordshire County Council asserted that these early staff should not have access to jabs and a spokesperson for Oxford Health NHS Foundation Trust commented: “We continue to vaccinate people in priority cohorts set by the JCVI, and local authorities are identifying eligible social care staff. People who booked in error are rightly asked to wait their turn so that we can prioritise those eligible for vaccination at this time, including older residents and those who are clinically vulnerable. We are carrying out ID checks at the Vaccination Centre to ensure only those who are currently eligible are vaccinated.”

Image: Steven Cornfeld via unsplash.com

Lamb and Flag could be turned into community asset

0

Oxford Liberal Democrats have suggested that the Lamb and Flag pub, which was owned by St John’s College, could be turned into an asset of community value.

The scheme would involve a community group buying the historic pub to prevent any potential future owners from demolishing the venue or changing the building’s use without planning permission. 

Last month, St John’s College announced that the pub, which opened in 1566, had become unviable and would be closing due to the effects of the coronavirus pandemic. The news was greeted with dismay by groups such as the Campaign for Real Ale and Oxford Liberal Democrat MP Layla Moran.

At the time, St John’s Deputy Bursar said the pub had been “hard hit by the pandemic” and that  “the college, as a charity, is not allowed to financially support a loss-making business that is not part of its core charitable objectives”. 

The pub was famously frequented by literary legends such as JRR Tolkein and CS Lewis. It was also said to have inspired parts of Thomas Hardy’s novel Jude the Obscure.

Now the Liberal Democrat councillor and city council opposition leader Andrew Gant has also stated his desire to see the long term future of the pub secured. Speaking to the Oxford Mail, he described the Lamb and Flag as a “historic institution” and pledged that he would work to ensure the pub had not “pulled its last pint because of the pandemic”. 

The Liberal Democrats have also launched a wider campaign to try and prevent other Oxford pubs from closing due to the pandemic. A petition has been set up asking for the Coronavirus Job Retention Scheme to be extended for as long as social distancing remains in place.

In response to speculation about the future of the pub, St John’s has said: “Following Lamb & Flag (Oxford) Limited’s announcement that the company will close and cease trading at the pub effective 31 January 2021, St John’s College has received a number of enquiries about future operations at the pub. The College is encouraged by the support and appreciation shown for The Lamb & Flag, which confirm the special place it holds in Oxford’s history. 

“The pub will remain in the College’s ownership and the focus now is to work to look beyond the present situation and ensure the pub’s long-term future is secured.

“Given the challenges the College faces during the COVID-19 restrictions, the College is not in a position to discuss future commercial arrangements for the pub at this stage. However, despite the immediate uncertainties, the College remains optimistic for the longer term future of the Lamb & Flag pub.”

Image: oxfordmaps.

Children as young as six join Oxford vaccine trial

0

Oxford University has begun a clinical trial of the vaccine it developed with AstraZeneca on children aged between 6-17. The trial will assess whether the vaccine produces a response in young people, giving them immunity against COVID-19.

The single-blind, randomised phase II trial will include 300 volunteers. 240 participants will receive the ChAdOx1 nCoV-19 vaccine, while the remaining 60 will receive a control meningitis vaccine to act as a placebo. Only the researchers will know who has received which vaccine.

Chief Investigator on the Oxford vaccine trial, Professor Andrew Pollard, said: “While most children are relatively unaffected by coronavirus and are unlikely to become unwell with the infection, it is important to establish the safety and immune response to the vaccine in children and young people as some children may benefit from vaccination.”

Currently, children under the age of 16 who are clinically vulnerable are eligible to receive a vaccine as part of the prioritised groups in the national vaccination programme. The Joint Committee on Vaccination has advised that children aged over 12 who are considered “clinically extremely vulnerable” can receive the vaccine through their paediatrician. The paediatrician would have to inform the child’s parents that the vaccine was not licensed for children that young, and that there is a lack of data into its effectiveness. In this instance, the vaccination would be considered off-license.

Including children in the vaccine trial will increase the amount of data available to scientists to make recommendations about its use in young people.

16 year old Meera, who found out about the trial via Twitter, told ITV she was taking part in the trial to “make a difference”. “It is quite strange but I’m feeling really lucky to have been given the opportunity to have the vaccine,” she added.

12 year old Sylvia decided to volunteer as she “just want[ed] to do something”. Her father volunteered to take part in the vaccine trail in 2020.

The trial is no longer recruiting volunteers in Oxford, but has recruiting sites in London and Bristol. A further site in Southampton is recruiting volunteers aged between 6-11 years old. Children under 16 will require parental consent to take part. Participants from BAME backgrounds are “particularly welcome” to join the trial.

Image: CDC via unsplash.com

WHO provides guidance on use of Oxford vaccine

0

The World Health Organisation (WHO) Strategic Advisory Group of Experts (SAGE) has produced guidelines for the emergency use of the coronavirus vaccine jointly developed by Oxford University and AstraZeneca.

They recommend that two standard doses of the vaccine should be given at 8- to 12-week intervals, for people aged 18 and older. This is the current strategy adopted by the United Kingdom. Clinical trials have shown that this dosing regimen is safe and effective in preventing symptomatic COVID-19.

In particular, the WHO believes that the vaccine is safe and efficacious even among older adults. However, some countries have recommended the Oxford-AstraZeneca vaccine only to those aged below 65. Multiple European countries, such as Germany, Austria, Sweden, Norway, the Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal do not recommend the vaccine for older adults due to insufficient trial data.

Andrew Pollard, Professor of Paediatric Infection and Immunity, and Chief Investigator on the Oxford vaccine trial, said in an Oxford University article, “The new guidance from WHO is an important milestone in extending access to the Oxford-AZ vaccine to all corners of the world and providing further endorsement that after rigorous scrutiny by the WHO Strategic Advisory Group of Experts the vaccine can be used to help protect populations from the coronavirus pandemic.”

Sarah Gilbert, Professor of Vaccinology, and Chief Investigator on the Oxford vaccine trial, added, “It is excellent news that the WHO has recommended use of the SARS CoV-2 vaccine first produced in Oxford. This decision paves the way to more widespread use of the vaccine to protect people against COVID-19 and gain control of the pandemic.”

The new guidance is a crucial step forward in achieving the University and AstraZeneca’s goal of providing global access to the vaccine, which is being made available on a not-for-profit basis during the pandemic. 

The vaccine is easily manufactured, transported and stored at domestic fridge temperature (2-8 degrees C). It can be easily administered in existing healthcare settings, allowing for the vaccine to be deployed rapidly around the world. In contrast, the vaccine developed by Pfizer has to be stored at a temperature of -70 degrees C, which is more challenging logistically.

Image: Steven Cornfeld via unsplash.com

Wendy’s to open in Oxford on Magdalen Street

0

The popular US burger chain Wendy’s is set to rejoin the UK market with Oxford hosting the second new restaurant.

The fast food restaurant company, founded in 1969 in Ohio, plans to relaunch its UK brand with the first store coming to Reading in early 2021. Under the current plan, the Oxford store will be located on Magdalen Street. A planning application has been approved by Oxford City Council for a Wendy’s shop front. The food giant is one of the largest and most successful burger outlets in the US behind only McDonald’s and Burger King and has more than 6,500 Wendy’s restaurants currently in operation. 

Speculation has been rising since 2017 when the chain launched a one-day pop up store in London on Great Queen Street. The company announced in October 2019 that it would open 20 stores in Britain. The Mirror reported that Wendy’s international division president and chief development officer Abigail Pringle said: “The United Kingdom will be our beachhead to European expansion. We believe it is a growing market and it has lots of great growth ahead of it.”

Wendy’s opened the UK branch of its fast food chain in 1992 and had 10 stores nationwide. However, after 7 years, due to retail and operating costs, the company left the UK and decided to focus on its North America base. In 2000 McDonald’s paid £750,000 to take over Wendy’s’ 3 London sites. 

A spokesperson for the burger chain quoted in the Oxford Mail has confirmed that the first UK store will open in Reading, and said that it is “very much looking forward” to reopening stores across the UK and is “excited about the future as we enter this market”.

The Oxford restaurant will be housed in the premises previously occupied by the shoe shop Schuh. Wendy’s will join US burgers and fries company Five Guys on Magdalen Street. The store will be located next to the recently-closed Debenhams department store. Debenhams’ store in Oxford permanently closed in 2020 after its parent company Arcadia went into administration. Last month, it was revealed that the Debenhams property would be converted into a hotel or office space.

According to a research report published in November, takeaway and fast-food industry revenue in the UK is expected to grow to £19.1 billion over the next five years. 

It is not yet known when the Oxford store can be expected to open.

Image: Mike Mozart on Flickr. Attribution 2.0 Generic (CC BY 2.0)