Saturday 14th June 2025
Blog Page 641

The ‘one-man multinational fashion phenomenon:’ Karl Lagerfeld

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The tsar of fashion has died on Tuesday, 19 November 2019. Fashion has lost one of its last universal talents, a master of self-staging and a pop culture icon.

In a word: Karl was everything. Karl did everything, could talk about everything, had a strong opinion on everything and lived everywhere. His work makes it impossible to pin him down. He could design a wine glass as well as a dress, he illustrated, created perfumes, drew caricatures for the German ‘Freie Allgemeine Zeitung’ but was also an entrepreneur, a film-maker and pre-eminently a master of staging.

Born in Hamburg, Germany, to the businessman Otto Lagerfeld and his second wife Elizabeth Bahlmann, Karl entered the fashion world in 1955 by winning the design competition of the International Wool Secretariat in the ‘Coats’ category. Balmain hired him as an assistant but three years later Karl moved on to Jean Patou where he designed two couture collections per year. His first collections, however, were not received positively from the conservative press. They considered the hems too short and the necklines too low, all which made his designs too pret-a-porter and excluded from couture. Later, it would be exactly this ability to transform and reshape couture as something wearable that would underscore his revival of struggling brands. But before that chapter started, he worked for Tiziani, Chloé and had various side projects, from lingerie to shoes and sweaters.

His rejuvenation of established brand signatures came to the fore in his work with Fendi in the mid-1960s. His playful attitude towards luxury pelts like mink or sable released the brand from its stale, squarish image. Instead, Karl’s ‘fun-fur’ was shaved, dyed and bound into tufts to make the renowned double F logo. The same ludic method also shaped his success at Chanel. The brand offered a virtually inexhaustible archive of visual elements for him to use: rows of shimmering pearls, camellias, oversized buttons. Performing respectful iconoclasm, Mr. Lagerfeld made the Chanel suit suitable for the woman of the 21st century and hailed the black Chanel bag as an ‘it-accessory.’

His endeavours with his own personal label never reached as much popularity as his work with already established brands – the Lagerfeld brand, started in 1984, switched ownership several times. Malicious tongues said he was only able to produce his best work within the framework of another designer’s vision. His supporters argued he was simply too busy. While others retired, Karl designed eight collections per year for Chanel alone at the age of 85. He had life contracts with both Fendi and Chanel and he abided them as a man who “designed like he breathed”, who only death could keep him from creating.

A master of visuals, he created elaborate scenes to present his fashion in the same way as he invented himself as an icon. The sets of his Chanel shows were legendary. Post-apocalyptic wastelands were followed by underwater paradises and even a fully-stocked Chanel supermarket. His one-liners are pop-culture at its finest and were even published as the book ‘The World According to Karl’. Ever a showman, Lagerfeld was never afraid to comment, even if his comments were often branded inappropriate or politically incorrect. Examples include Adele’s weight, criticising the #metoo movement and Germany’s decision to open her borders to millions of Syrian refugees. Many of his quotes turned into bon mots. His opinion on wearing sweats was critical: “Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants.” But Lagerfeld was not above accessible fashion. The fast fashion giant H&M chose him as the first designer with whom to create an inexpensive capsule collection. It sold out in two days.

Karl himself claimed he was working towards being remembered by no one, but for someone whose tireless creativity has spanned decades, that is too ambitious an aim. After he himself paid respect to other designers’ visions for so long, it remains unclear whether the continuation of his brand will allow him to establish his own design legacy posthumously. One thing is certain: the world of fashion has lost a leading creative force. But at the same time, I am excited to see the ideas and creatives who will fill the void he has left behind.

New data reveals suspension gender gap among postgrads

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New data shows that 8.7% of female postgraduates suspended their studies in 2016/17, one-third higher than the rate for men (6.5%). The gender discrepancy was mirrored in withdrawal rates, which were 1.37% for men compared to 1.64% for women.

The data, obtained from the University by Cherwell, reveals a consistent gender disparity in suspension and withdrawal rates over the previous 8 years.

Suspensions are when a single student pauses their study during a given year, with one student potentially accruing multiple suspension ‘counts’, in the rare event that they do so more than once.

Withdrawals are when a student completely withdraws from their programme of study. This does not include those that have been transferred to a different programme of study.

A spokesperson for the University told Cherwell: “These numbers are relatively low so we should be careful about drawing conclusions from them without understanding the context. We offer high levels of academic and pastoral support to our graduate students through their departments, colleges and central University services.

“There are many reasons why a student’s status might be suspended, including health, maternity or paternity, personal circumstances, academic difficulties and disciplinary matters. Suspension is often a voluntary decision by a student, and in most cases students return from periods of suspension to successfully complete their course.”

A History Masters student at St Catherine’s, Hannah Grange-Sales, told Cherwell: “Women are conditioned to believe they are less intelligent than men, therefore there is both a real and imagined need to work harder to be considered men’s intellectual equals.

“Girls and women are also taught from an early age to internalise ‘unbecoming’ emotions, such as anger, frustration and hopelessness.

“Considering the historic argument against women’s right to education that they do not hold the mental rigour to undertake study, there is a double pressure to overcome this stigma and maintain a facade of capability when, for a variety of personal reasons not linked to their intellect, this may not be the case.

“The increased pressure for women to prove themselves intellectually coupled with the internalisation of emotion can surely be considered a factor in the higher rate of mental health issues amongst female students.”

The overall suspension rate for all postgraduate students has also increased year on year from 2013/14 to 2016/17 from 5.98% to 7.93%, although there was a slight decrease last year to 7.5%.

The withdrawal rate has remained consistent at about 1.5%, peaking in 2013/14 at 1.82%.

There was also a marked contrast between those on research and taught postgraduate degrees, with the former having consistently higher levels of suspension and withdrawal. In 2016/17 just under 10% of research graduates suspended their studies compared to 6% of taught graduates. This figure decreased slightly to 9% last year.

Cherwell understands that the disparity in the figures could be due to the length of postgraduate research degree, which are typically three years. Taught degrees can be as short as 9 months, meaning that there is less opportunity for students to suspend or withdraw from their studies. Just under 52% of enrolments in 2017/18 were in taught degrees.

Oxford SU VP for Graduates, Alison D’Ambrosia told Cherwell: “It is a ticking time bomb the issue of graduate student welfare. With a huge increase in graduate numbers over the past several years, we have seen minimal investment in their welfare provision and support.

“From a counselling service that is only open during term time to students been pushed from college to department to seek help, more needs to be done to properly support the graduate student body. It seems that the first call of action is for students to suspend rather than tackle the causes of suspension and offer proper support for students.”

According to the SU’s recently published counselling report, postgraduate students were proportionally less likely to seek help than undergraduates, with 10.8% of postgraduate researchers and 9.2% of taught students receiving counselling to 12.3% of undergraduates.

The report added that the lower take up of provision could be due to cultural differences. In 2016/17, 64% of graduates were non-UK students.

Oxford Students join local schools in Climate strike

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Students of all ages from Oxford’s primary and secondary schools will be joining a nationwide strike today in an attempt to put pressure on the government to change its policy regarding climate change.

The group cites an “alarming lack of Government leadership on climate change over previous decades” as the main reason for the strike.

Demonstrators are set to gather in Carfax from 11am on Friday morning.

Layla Moran, MP for Oxford West and Abingdon, has announced she supports the strike action and that she will be joining students in their protest.

The protestors are hoping to publicise their concerns over the need for action on climate change and to encourage others to do the same.

According to the UK Youth Climate Coalition (UKYCC), strikes have already been organized in over 50 UK towns and cities, in locations as diverse as Truro and Fort William.

UKYCC campaigner Jake Woodier explained that: “Youth voices are too often left out of the discussion when it comes to climate change … [It is] no longer a problem to be dealt with in the future.

“The reality is, we’re living through a crisis of humankind’s own doing, and it’s only going to get increasingly worse unless we take radical, rapid action to transition to a low or zerocarbon economy in the immediate future.”

Layla Moran commented: “Climate change is the biggest issue facing our planet, yet it is consistently ignored by Parliament and Government despite pressure from MPs.

“I support the students in their strike, though I feel saddened that they feel they have to do this to raise the profile of this issue and hope the schools see this in the positive light it is meant.

“They have my assurance I will continue to champion their cause.”

Moran, who is Liberal Democrat Education Spokesperson, also commented: “Without a doubt this strike is a pivotal moment for the students involved. We face a global crisis in climate change and I am proud to support our younger generation who have taken up such an important and principled position.

“As a former teacher I absolutely understand the frustrations that teachers and schools may have with these strikes.

“I hope schools colleges and universities see this in the positive light it is meant and equally hope those students act sensibly with making sure adults know where they are and making up the missed work.

“Time and time again we have seen the issue of climate change ignored, whether it be locally due to the ignorance of local councils who plough on with projects that will damage the environment, or the Tories’ shameful national record on climate change.”

This comes after a series of climate change strikes in other European cities, including the Hague, Brussels and Berlin. These protests were primarily made up of students, protesting against government inaction on environmental issues.

Greta Thunberg, the 16-year-old Swedish student who made global headlines last summer by protesting outside the Swedish Riksdag every day, missing school on Fridays to do so, has been cited as the main inspiration for these strikes.

She has urged students all over the world to go on strike, saying: “Why should we be studying for a future that may be no more? This is more important than school, I think.”

Cherwell spoke to a secondary school student, 15, who attended a protest last week in the Hague, together with an estimated 10,000 other students. He described the atmosphere as “inspiring”, saying that he and other friends who attended are “hoping that as a result of this protest, the government will take action to improve the future for us and every other child in the Netherlands.” He added that “if [the government] don’t, we’ll be back next week!”

Although greenhouse gas emissions have been in decline in the UK since 2017, the continuation of processes such as fracking has meant that damage is still being done to the environment. Concerns have been raised about the country meeting its targets to reduce emissions by 50% by 2050, something the government pledged to do as part of the 2008 Climate Change Act.

Students all over Oxford, and indeed the rest of the world, will be hoping to remind their governments to prioritise climate change to secure their futures.

It remains to be seen how many students will turn out to strike on Friday, and how the government and local schools will respond.

Hilda’s JCR to become carbon-neutral

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St. Hilda’s College have become the first college to pass a motion to reduce its emissions to net-zero by 2040.

Rupert Stuart-Smith, a Geography student at the college, proposed the motion last Sunday in accordance with the Paris Agreement.

The Paris Agreement, which 195 members of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) have signed as of November 2018, is due to start in the year 2020.

The motion, which passed unanimously, noted the growing threat of climate change, calling on the college to reduce all emissions to net-zero by 2040; ensure all future buildings are carbon neutral; and ensure all current and future buildings are at the highest energy efficiency standards.

The University of Oxford have already expressed their interest in environmental sustainability and tackling climate change, with events taking place throughout the year, such as Student Switch Off, and the newly launched Sustainability Skills Bank.

In 2011 the University set a target to reduce carbon emissions by 33% by the end of 2021. Stuart-Smith told Cherwell, “St Hilda’s has led Oxford’s colleges in demanding that all companies in which we invest align themselves with the Paris Climate Agreement. The College must now commit to eliminating the carbon emissions associated with its own activities by 2040, as is required by the Paris Agreement.

“Our colleges aim to give us the tools to succeed in life. They must not simultaneously compromise that success through their contribution to climate change, the greatest threat to the wellbeing of today’s students.

“The unanimous support of the JCR for this motion demonstrates the conviction of St Hilda’s students to confront the challenge of climate change. We look forward to working with the Governing Body over coming months to make this goal a reality.”

With the growing concern over climate change and what we can do to help, this motion sets an impressive precedent, one that will hopefully be adopted across more colleges in the coming months.

Speaking to Cherwell, Oxford’s head of Environmental Sustainability Harriet Waters said: “Its great to see a JCR taking such a proactive stance on carbon reduction to tackle climate change. Good luck to St Hilda’s on their carbon reduction journey.”

Oxford Majlis Society returns

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After decades of inactivity, the Oxford Majlis Society has re-established its presence at the university, launching the Majlis Magazine and electing a new committee.

Despite a legacy of informed debate, the South Asian debating society fell into inactivity in recent decades, and efforts are now being realised.

The Majlis was originally founded in 1896 as a debating society to campaign for Indian independence in the UK. The society was set up with a structure modelled on the Oxford Union and the Cambridge Majlis.

Srishti Arora, a member of the steering committee, told Cherwell: “Majlis is important to ensure that Oxford’s historic connection with South Asia is never forgotten, for the students to have a safe space to debate issues in South Asia and to promote unity between South Asian students.” Majlis played a role in the Indian independence movement and was investigated by the Home Office and Foreign Office for its associations with independence leaders such as Liaquat Ali Khan, one of the founding fathers of Pakistan. The society can also be seen to have influenced South Asian politics post-independence, with Benazir Bhutto, the first female Prime Minister of Pakistan, and Indira Gandhi, India’s first female Prime Minister, both members of the society. Rabii Malik, a second year studying PPE at St. Anne’s and the president of the Pakistan Society told Cherwell: “The revival of Majlis is a much-needed initiative empowering South Asians at Oxford and offering us a unique way.

Majlis played a role in the Indian independence movement and was investigated by the Home Office and Foreign Office for its associations with independence leaders such as Liaquat Ali Khan, one of the founding fathers of Pakistan.

The society can also be seen to have influenced South Asian politics post-independence, with Benazir Bhutto, the first female Prime Minister of Pakistan, and Indira Gandhi, India’s first female Prime Minister, both members of the society.

Rabii Malik, a second year studying PPE at St. Anne’s and the president of the Pakistan Society told Cherwell: “The revival of Majlis is a much-needed initiative empowering South Asians at Oxford and offering us a unique way to stay in touch with our heritage.”

The Majlis steering committee have launched a magazine, a series of debates and an active fundraising campaign in order to raise their profile.

An active committee member, Musty Kamal, told Cherwell: “The reason I was so eager to restart the society is because it is so important.

“With divisive rhetoric becoming commonplace in South Asia it is important that students at Oxford, who will be instrumental in shaping the region, build on our common values and common vision.”

Musty Kamal has re-launched the Majilis Magazine this term.

Shahnur Chauhan, the elected secretary, told Cherwell: “Majlis represents a time when students from similar backgrounds discussed issues that mattered in an attempt to make a difference.

“The platform is required because the problems may have changed but they certainly do exist.”

Bubble Tea: The Definitive Review

Bubble tea (also known as boba, or pearl milk tea) was first invented in Taiwan, typically made with black tea, milk, sugar, and a generous helping of tapioca pearls. In Oxford alone, there are 5 bubble tea shops, so we (two Asians from Hong Kong) decided to compare and contrast them to give a definitive review of which bubble tea is the most value for your money. To standardise the taste test, we ordered a regular-size classic bubble tea from each shop, with regular sugar and ice, and had our ratings peer-reviewed by several members in college.

Chatime (6 Gloucester Street – just off George Street)

PRICE: £3.70 (50% off first drink with the Chatime app)

TASTE: Overall, this was a decent bubble tea – the tea had an artificial taste to it, and the bubbles a little on the chewy side, but still tolerable.

AMBIENCE: The shop on George Street was definitely meant for just takeaway – there was almost no seating available, and the place was small and basic.

COMMENTS: people in college accurately summarised it as “white people bubble tea” and “basic bitch bubble tea” – it was perfectly average, which is to be expected given that Chatime is a relatively popular global franchise. Apart from tea, Chatime also serves other drinks like fruit teas, creamy mousse drinks, coolers, and lattes, with 19 different toppings to choose from.

Coba (9 Cornmarket Street – in the Covered Market)

PRICE: £3.80

TASTE: This was on the worse end of the spectrum out of the 5 – the tea far too sweet and artificial, and the bubbles extremely hard and chewy with a weird chocolate aftertaste.

AMBIENCE: Similar to a mini cafe/restaurant, the shop was covered in colourful and cute decorations, with Polaroids and post-it notes all over the walls.

COMMENTS: One can also buy instant ramen and various Asian snacks here. Apart from tea, Coba also serves fruit juice, creamy mousse drinks, smoothies, and milkshakes. There are 12 flavours available.

Formosan (128A High Street – opposite the Wheatsheaf)

PRICE: £4.25 (20% off with OUCS or 10% with Oxford Union)

TASTE: This was a high-end bubble tea experience. The tea was flavourful with no aftertaste, and the bubbles were soft and larger than average.

AMBIENCE: The waiting area had very basic bar-style seating, but further in is a small Oriental Tea Room, which makes for a unique workspace. Also, the whole place smells of roasted tea, which adds to an already great atmosphere.

COMMENTS: Also serves peanuts and pistachios, as well as kombucha (fermented, bubbly, alcoholic sweet tea) on tap. Although there is less variety on their menu – only 3 types of tea and 3 toppings – they definitely make up for this in quality.

Fantastea (36 High Street – opposite University College)

PRICE: £3.85 (20% off with OUHKS or Oxford Union)

TASTE: This bubble tea was definitely of good quality: the tea was tasty, and the bubbles were nice and soft.

AMBIENCE: The shop is quite large compared to the others, with a great layout perfect for socialising or working in during the daytime. It was well-lit and clean, and had the most modern design overall.

COMMENTS: Apart from tea, Fantastea’s “cream crown” drinks are very popular, and they also serve various lattes, coolers, and fruit teas with 8 toppings to choose from.

QTea (116 Cowley Road – next to the Cowley G&D’s)

PRICE: £3.69 (cash only)

TASTE: By far the worst bubble tea. It was mainly the bubbles that made us dislike it – it had an awful aftertaste and ruined the taste of the tea itself once you let it sit for a while.

AMBIENCE: There were a few wooden tables and chairs and some basic decor, but otherwise there isn’t much to comment on.

COMMENTS: There are a variety of board games available to play for free. There are 13 flavours, 3 types of tea, and 4 toppings to choose from. QTea also serves fruit tea, or fresh tea without milk.

The verdict:

Highest quality of bubble tea: Formosan. You can’t beat real tea, the bubbles were a delightful experience, and it was probably the healthiest option too.

Best shop: Fantastea. It had the largest store and most well-designed layout – plus, it’s the most accessible given it’s in Central Oxford.

Most variety in menu: Fantastea/Chatime. Chatime has a dizzying selection of toppings, but Fantastea probably has better drinks options.

Best overall: Fantastea. Considering it’s only 6p more expensive than QTea, which was the worst out of the five, and 40p cheaper than Formosan while maintaining a similar quality, it is extremely worth it – especially if you can get a discount.

Preview: Skin a Cat – an interview with playwright Isley Lynn

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If you have heard of Skin a Cat, the play which graced the Edinburgh Fringe last year, it’s either because you saw the host of awards it picked up, or – more likely – because you’ve seen the vibrant grapefruit (read: labia) of Britomart Production’s show plastered across JCRs and social media. It’s an interesting marketing strategy. It’s also a very effective strategy, because – as I’m soon to find out – this is a play which is anything but shy. “My cunt’s broken,” says the main character, Alana (Millie Tupper), to a man she’s just met in an art studio. It’s an outspokenness I wish I had in my everyday life, but watching her journey – from the age of nine to twenty-five – it’s clear it’s not always been there.

The ‘brokenness’ is a condition called vaginismus, an involuntary contraction of muscles around the vaginal opening. It’s a condition which makes any form of vaginal penetration extremely painful – and, for those who see penetrative sex as the be-all and end-all, it’s easy to see how misconceptions and feelings of despair could easily be built up. Despite it’s commonness – a 2017 BBC news report stated nearly 1 in 10 British women find sex painful, with vaginismus being a large contributor – the name is largely unheard of.

With an introduction to two stools – “this is a queen-size bed”, director Kitty Low informs me – the play is up and away, and I’m taken through three scenes, each at very different points of Alana’s life. I notice a slight tendency towards men being terrible – though often charmingly endearing – with Peter (Hannah Taylor) particularly convincing with a multitude of character tics, and Gerry (Harold Serero) bringing new meaning to the term ‘mansplaining’. But the play isn’t just about heterosexual relationships, it also explores the dynamic between Alana and her mother, her doctor, and her psychiatrist – each bringing their own preconceptions of the disease to the table. It’s skilful in showing how, even without malicious intent, it’s easy to be clueless – and hopefully this script will go some way to dispelling these very misconceptions.

For a play about genitals, I’m informed it’s remarkably unsexy. Although there is, intriguingly, a ‘movement director’ (Victoria Liu) for some of the more ‘acrobatic’ moments, there’s no nudity, and the frustration associated with the act comes through loud and clear. But it’s also incredibly funny, both in script and in performance – a reference to “eating olives seductively” has me giggling, and a purposefully cringey illustration of a secondary school birthday party brings back some sixth-form memories.

Who is the audience for this play? Director Low claims that it is primarily for people our age – and while it will resonate with people who have vaginas, due largely to the intimate subject matter, it’s a play which can be seen – and should be seen – by a wide audience. One actor notes that she’s particularly glad that her male friends are coming to see it, regardless of its immediate relevance, as it’s something they wouldn’t have attended otherwise. If nothing else, it’s a play which will spark conversation, and certainly raise awareness – and that, as the characters say, is “fucking brilliant”.

“I know far too much about random people’s sex lives now. It’s a – privilege.” I’m lucky enough to speak with the original scriptwriter, Isley Lynn, about the Oxford production, but the conversation quickly devolves into a series of anecdotes about the aftermath of the play, which first premiered in 2016. I suggest that it’s because she’s putting so much of herself on stage – or at least the audience believes her to be – that there’s that openness. She agrees, but notes the semi-fictional nature of her work: it’s autobiographical, but “not all of it is true”.

The reason it’s not an autobiographical work is because things in real life don’t always work out quite so well. The medical professionals in this play are largely helpful, even where they haven’t been in reality: Lynn tells me that this is in order to encourage those who need help to seek it. (Even a show which is more coming-of-age than diatribe has a duty of care.) It’s a surprisingly sensitive approach to scriptwriting which takes the audience into account from the start: a script intimately aware that it’s educating many people for the first time.

The conversation takes several interesting turns, including an interesting discussion regarding censorship. Lynn notes that, despite the fairly self-explanatory subject matter, she was asked not to say the word ‘vagina’ on a radio interview (though apparently the word ‘vaginismus’ was fine). It goes to show how taboo the subject still is in the media, which is easy to forget when enveloped within the university sphere – which might make this student-run production all the better. Lynn stands by her mission of “championing radical honesty”, and a university with a magazine called ‘Cuntry Living’ might be a better ground for the conversation than, say, prime-time BBC. “I trust young people to get it,” she laughs.

That’s not to say this is meant to be a particularly radical play. It was originally conceived as an “awkward coming-of-age story”, and from what I saw in the preview the hallmarks of it are very much still there: a clumsy makeout session at an underage party is more Perks of Being a Wallflower than We Should All be Feminists. Lynn says the reason it’s since been pigeonholed as a ‘play for women’, for want of a better phrase, is that male stories are seen as universal: narratives in any way seen as other – female-led, minority ethnic, or LGBTQ+ – are still thought to occupy their own secluded niche.

But as both Low and Lynn stress, it’s a narrative which can, and should, be seen by everyone. The final scene I saw – a relentless, breezy epiphany, beautifully handled in all its profanity by Tupper – emphasises this point more than any: it’s about “creating your own metric for your own happiness”. Society is filled with milestones for all of us, things which should seem effortless but so often aren’t: health, marriage, Insta-perfect lives, penetrative sex. There are “entire magazine empires” built around maintaining this status quo. Once you have taken this metric into your own hands, you are able to redefine what it means to be happy on your own terms. And that’s a message for all of us, regardless of gender.

I’m extremely, but pleasantly, surprised to find that Lynn has had zero communication with Britomart Productions despite being heavily involved with all previous productions (including last year’s tour). With her most recent play War of the Worlds also performing in Oxford this week (at the North Wall) – “same style, very different subject matter” – there’s a clear sense of a playwright moving past her success onto bigger and bolder things. At the same time, Britomart Productions’ piece feels self-assured and explorative – a theatre company coming into their own. With typical candor, Lynn sums up her own feelings towards this departure: “Skin a Cat is the most important thing I’ve done in my life, and for the first time it’s not me driving it. So I’m really excited to see how it’s going to go.” With my ticket already booked for this week, so am I.

Skin a Cat is at the BT Studio from 12th-16th February.

The rise of lo-fi

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Unprofessional, unsophisticated, and unpolished. No, it’s not my most recent essay feedback, but instead three words used to describe lo-fi music on its Wikipedia page. Lo-fi music is a genre which incorporates imperfections from the production and recording processes into the final piece. It’s asserted itself in various genres over the years, including indie, hip-hop, and more recently house. But why do artists like DJ Seinfeld, XXXtentacion, and blu choose to include these imperfections in their works, and more importantly why do we listen to them?

Part of the reason seems to lie in individuals’ affinity for certain ages of the past. The ‘mistakes’ in lo-fi music are reminiscent of a time when recording equipment was fallible and produced an imperfect sound. Embedding oneself within the past is an appealing way of dealing with anxieties of the present. It’s easy to look back nostalgically to a time we never actually experienced and filter out any of the epoch’s negatives, instead focusing on its aesthetic beauty, or social authenticity. This coping mechanism is also evident in the way the record player has reemerged as a popular way to listen to music, or imitation of the 80s/90s fashion sense. Lo-fi music plays a part in this culture of creating a possibility for the past within the present, particularly when one considers that many use music as a form of escapism. What better way to escape from the present than to pretend, just temporarily, that it doesn’t exist at all.

Above all, lo-fi’s popularity seems to stem from the way it adopts our own flaws and becomes harmonious with the anxieties and concerns we have about ourselves and our abilities. Lo-fi music embeds itself within the materiality of the music industry through its imperfections. It serves as a reminder of the equipment used to record it, and lets this material culture become a part of the genre. Humans’ fundamentally self-conscious and anxious state has intensified with the rise of social media, where airbrushing, filters, and selectively posting all provide an image of others’ lives which is quite dislocated from reality. High quality music can point to these insecurities, and attempt to convince us of the producer’s struggle with them. The Script can try and convince us they’ve felt what we’ve felt in a break-up, Kanye West can claim he’s experienced the same frustrations about friendship, and Adele that we truly will find someone like you. But it’s only lo-fi music that allows us to fully engage with a song’s meaning, as it stoops to our own levels of imperfection. The genre recognises our worries and recreates them on a meta-musical level, deepening the connection between listener and producer beyond just a surface level acknowledgment of each other’s insecurities.

It seems contradictory that anyone would enjoy listening to a genre which is defined by its imperfections, yet we do. We do because we too are imperfect. The perfect art form is quite alienating and intimidating, it doesn’t and can’t really feel particularly relevant to us. It’s a different spec, a different breed. The lo-fi genre accepts human’s fundamentally flawed nature by presenting itself as a material product of human fallibility. It’s a genre which we don’t just have to listen to, but can participate in.

Oxford SU backs PPH inclusion in College Contribution Scheme

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Oxford SU have voted unanimously this
week to support the inclusion of Private Permanent Halls in the College Contribution Scheme. Regent’s Park JCR President William Robinson proposed the motion, and Mansfield College JCR President Saba Shakil
seconded it.

During the meeting, Robinson told the council, “I don’t know how you could possibly justify excluding literally the poorest institutions and poorest student bodies in Oxford.

“Essentially, this motion seeks in some small way to get the discussion going on why PPHs are not included in the college contribution scheme, and I hope to mandate the Student Union to push for the inclusion of PPHs in the next College Contribution Scheme.”

Private halls of study founded by Christian denominations have existed in Oxford since 1221, and in 1918, a University statute permitted non-profit private halls to gain permanent status. PPHs tend to be smaller than colleges and offer fewer courses, and although they are independently run, their students are full members of the University.

The CCS requires colleges with taxable assets exceeding £45 million to give to a fund from which poorer colleges can apply to receive grants. Cherwell previously reported that Christ Church, St John’s, and All Soul’s provided 38% of all contributions in 2016/17.

Currently, PPHs are not included in the CCS despite having fewer assets than any colleges. Documents obtained from the UK Charity Commission indicate that St Stephen’s House has the highest endowment of a PPH, with £17,829,000 in 2017. St Benet’s Hall has the least at £146,000. In comparison, the total assets of Harris Manchester— the poorest college — are 24,797,000.

The Council motion mandated that the SU President write to the Chair of Conference of Colleges on behalf of PPHs and poorer colleges to “see the benefits of a new College Contribution Scheme.”

It also encouraged JCR and MCR Presidents to lobby heads of houses for their inclusion.
Members of the audience voiced concerns during the question period about whether the motion would increase the amount that wealthier colleges would have to pay under the CCS.

Robinson replied, “The only change that I want to enact at this point is including PPHs, which may mean yes [there will be] potentially less money available for other poorer colleges in the pot. But this motion does not
ask for more money from the rich colleges.”

The motion passed without opposition.

Robinson told Cherwell in an interview after the meeting: “I’m very happy that the SU passed this motion. I think it’s going to be able to achieve good things for PPHs and go some of the way to addressing the fundamental problem that PPHs don’t get proper representation or any kind of decision-making capability at the highest level of central University governance. With the SU behind us, it’s a small step towards making the changes we can
at this moment.”

While expressing his pleasure with the vote’s outcome, Robinson is aware of the major challenges PPHs still face to receive a cut from the CCS. He added: “Getting PPHs involved in the College Contribution Scheme involves a bit of turkeys voting for Christmas. If we are included, the poorest colleges who currently have access to the fund that’s created by the tax on the richer colleges will have less money to apply for, because we will hopefully be taking a good proportion of it.

“That’s the biggest problem: It’s getting heads of houses to vote on something that fundamentally doesn’t benefit them or their student bodies but is something that is good for the wider university in ensuring that the student experience is positive at all colleges and PPHs.”

Chair of the Conference of Colleges, Rick Trainor, told Cherwell that: “a new College Contribution Scheme, if it is enacted, will be a scheme approved by, and administered under the auspices of the University; the Conference of Colleges is still debating proposals for the University’s consideration.

“For these reasons it would be inappropriate for Conference to make any comment on the issues.”

SU President, Joe Inwood, said on the issue, “Students are increasingly dissatisfied with the inconsistencies between colleges in provision for key aspects of the student experience.

“From college counsellors to travel grants, conference funds for graduate
students to sports funding, there is clearly wide variation at present between the richest and poorest colleges.

“Head of colleges need to pay attention to these concerns when a future College Contribution Scheme is discussed at governing bodies, and I encourage JCR and MCR Presidents to engage in this issues.”

MEP writes to University Vice-Chancellor after being disinvited by Polish Society

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Lib Dem MEP Catherine Bearder has written to the University Vice-Chancellor after being ‘uninvited’ from a panel debate at the Congress of Polish Student Societies, which took place last weekend.

In the letter, seen by Cherwell, Bearder wrote: “I am sure you are aware that the Equality and Human Rights Commission recently released new guidance on defending free speech in universities and ensuring campuses remain a forum for open debate.

“I hope you are able to speak to the Congress of Polish Students organisers and the Oxford University Polish student society about the debate and explain to them that they must adhere to this guidance for future Congresses.”

Bearder was originally invited to debate the pro-Brexit Conservative MP Daniel Kawczynski on the impacts of Brexit on European countries on a panel called “Poland and Brexit – Friends or Foes”.

Bearder’s invitation to the conference was withdrawn on Friday after she tweeted: “I’m debating Daniel Kawczynski MP in Oxford this Saturday in front of Polish university students studying in the UK. When I say debating, I mean trying to put the little unicorns Daniel lets free every now and then back in their stables.”

The Congress, which happens annually, is a 2-day event aiming to debate issues relevant to Polish students in the UK, provide networking opportunities for Polish students and workshops with Polish young professionals to provide career opportunities. It attracts over 400 members of Polish student societies across the UK.

Oxford University Polish Society invited Stefan Kasprzyk, a Liberal Democrat who supported Remain, to replace Bearder.

The University Polish Society explained their decision, saying: “We decided to invite Mr Stefan Kasprzyk instead of Mrs Catherine Bearder to our discussion panel collectively, as the Conference’s organising committee. An online exchange, primarily concerned with issues irrelevant to the Polish student community in the UK, caused concerns that the panel debate would not be focused on the topic of Brexit in the Polish context, but instead it would be overshadowed by issues specific to internal British political controversies.”

In her letter to the Vice-Chancellor, Bearder continued: “I find it totally unacceptable that a debate held on University premises called the “Brexit debate” with two opposing viewpoints on the issue would deem it appropriate to drop a participant because of “negative attention towards a tweet.” Oxford University has a proud and world renowned tradition of free speech and should not accept this kind of behaviour, which looks like censorship on campus, lightly.”

“What was really shocking, though, is that when Polish journalist Jakub Krupa asked why I was uninvited, the organisers said that I “pulled out”.

Oxford University Polish Society said: “Firstly, we would like to apologise to Mrs Catherine Bearder and all concerned for the timing and manner in which we communicated the change of arrangements, and for any upset caused. We aim to hold ourselves to a high professional standard, which we failed to meet in the way the change was conducted.

“However, we strongly deny the charges of stifling free speech, let alone censorship. We are deeply committed to free speech and consider it to be an important part of our identity as a student body. In organising the conference, we are doing our utmost to ensure that the conditions for free debate are ensured and that a range of views are duly represented. We therefore invited Mr Stefan Kasprzyk, a Liberal Democrat and a vocal supporter of the Remain campaign, to represent views that are opposed to Mr Kawczynski’s. We therefore consider charges in that matter to be unfounded.

As a team responsible for continuing the 12 years of tradition of social activity of the Polish students’ diaspora in the United Kingdom, we would like to apologise. We hope that this unfortunate event will not overshadow the importance of debates held at the 12th Congress, focused on the role of Polish students and their organisations in British civil society.

“We have also reached out to apologise to Mrs Catherine Bearder personally.”

A University spokesperson said: “The University played no role in this decision. The University is strongly committed to freedom of speech and we encourage our students to debate and engage with a range of views.”