On Saturday, two days before ‘fair-trade fortnight’, activists from OUSU Environment and Ethics committee’s Buy Right campaign took to Radcliffe Square to spread their message. </p>
The Buy Right campaign aims to ensure that no clothes bearing the Oxford University brand are manufactured by workers in poor conditions with unfair pay. </p>
Six campaigners set up a washing line, from which they hung spray-painted t-shirts, reading ‘buy right’ on one side, and ‘no sweat’ on the other. </p>
Nearly 100 people stopped to sign postcards, addressed to the Oxford-owned subsidiary Oxford Limited, petitioning the University to join the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC). The independent organisation monitors working conditions in sweatshops, and produces independent reports which allow the activities of these factories to be monitored in a bid to combat exploitation.</p>
The event was also an attempt to actively involve the student community with OUSU’s efforts. Students have been able to sign or send postcards in College, and apply greater pressure on the University to alter its stance.</p>
The campaign, which is also encouraging colleges to be ethically aware when purchasing stash, was described by Buy Right campaign coordinator, Sean Robinson, as having a “complex message.” </p>
In response to fears that without sweatshops their workers will be left with no source of income, Robinson and Buy Right campaigners are keen to spread a subtler message. </p>
Robinson stressed that this isn’t a campaign to boycott sweatshops. Rather, the aim is to get the University to sign up to the WRC, in a bid to ensure greater transparency in the supply chain, and guarantee humane conditions for workers. </p>
Although the University has said that it is in favour of ending exploitation, it is obstructing moves towards greater transparency for fear of jeopardising “commercial sensitivity.” </p>
As it stands, licensees are required to abide by a Code of Labour Practice, which is difficult to enforce. The campaigners feel that there needs to be an incentive for suppliers and licensees to actually change conditions. </p>
Robinson said, “If Oxford Limited is serious about the basic human rights of workers then they need independent inspections – we don’t let the fox guard the chicken coop. Secrecy and accountability are not compatible.” </p>
Robinson was also dubious about the financial arguments against greater transparency. Where it is argued that greater costs to suppliers will result in sweatshops being shut down, the campaigners insist that the cost to the suppliers will be negligible. </p>
Robinson added that the campaigners “are not slowing any time soon. We are not running out of steam.” </p>
Talks between Buy Right activists and Oxford Limited were set to continue as of Wednesday. As more universities sign up to the WRC, the expectation is that there will be a burgeoning incentive for suppliers of university-branded clothing to improve their standards.
