Saturday, May 3, 2025
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Poetry Bites: HT16 week 4

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Rain dance by Steve Wright

What a thrill to be out and about in the rain

without socks or shoes or even a mac.

It’s probably unsafe but we can catch our

death of cold together. Look how the drops

dance on puddles like the skin of a drum,

like a pudding left too long in the air.

I went out in a storm when I was six

and lathered my hair with apple and pear.

You should have seen the neighbours stare,

and my mum behind the curtains in creases.

So slap the puddles with your feet,

give the rain something to dance for.

 

Note:

With the frequent February showers Oxford has been experiencing over the past week, Steve Wright finds joy in english weather through poetry. Also contained is a useful life hack for those struggling to make the time to wash in the lead up to fifth week.

Poetry Bites: HT16 week 3

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A study in urban botany

17/1/16

On the bridge behind the Tescos

Sprouting out from the cracks of the pavement

There’s a small, delicate blue plaque

Pinned tastefully to the railings. It reads:

‘Geranium Robertianum flowered here

From June to October 2014’.

The railings have been lovingly repainted

And the pavement has been recently swept-

There isn’t a weed in sight.

 

In the doorway of a McDonalds

Two homeless men crouch on plastic bags

Discussing where best to spend the night.

 

Author’s note:

This experience with the plaque did genuinely happen to me whilst out running in Oxford one evening last week- it struck me as such an absurd moment that I had to write it down. After writing it I felt it needed something else – whilst walking to a tutorial the next day I saw the homeless on Cornmarket Street, and I realised how the poem had to end. I like the fact that the comparison gives the poem a whole new level of meaning- looking at what really proliferates on our streets, plants or people.

Poetry Bites: HT16 week 2

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The Arctic Tern’s Prayer

tell the air to hold me in the rushing heart of it

and keep its paths straight

away from home let there be a land that

flows with fish and flies

and let it taste like it tasted at home

home take this salty scent of home from my head

cut away the memory of its last ultraviolet

flash beautiful beneath me

don’t turn me to a twist of salt to fall to

sea’s saltiness if I look back at my home

let me look back just once let me

look back

 

Note:

This poem is published in Flight, an anthology in response to the refugee crisis, which launched on the 1st of February. Artic terns spend summer in the UK and winter in the Antartic. Annual round trips extend up to an estimated 90,000 km.

Warhol in fresh light

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It is not controversial to assert that Andy Warhol is the most instantly recognisable artist for the latter half of the 20th century. This makes the task of putting on an exhibition of his work rather problematic – presenting Warhol in a fresh light is challenging when the man has had so much exposure. An unimaginative exhibition of his work would no doubt still draw crowds, so it is particularly exciting when an exhibition attempts to put together something genuinely fresh, to carve a new-fangled lens through which to view him. Last year, the Barbican did so by displaying (a portion of) his private collection in their delightful exhibition Magnificent Obsessions: The Artist as Collector. This year the Ashmolean Museum presents, in public for the first time, over a hundred works from the collection of Andrew and Christine Hall. The collection is predominantly formed of various portraits – of celebrities, naturally, but also of politicians and other artists. It also includes other work, such as some of his Oxidation paintings and an attempt at replicating a Rorschach test, as well as a number of films loaned from the Warhol Museum in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.

Curated by veteran Sir Norman Rosenthal, the exhibition is brightly lit. Each piece has a number of lights from a variety of angles pointed at it, creating a criss-crossing overlap of shadows. Jonathan Jones suggests that there are shadows everywhere in Warhol’s work and Rosenthal’s careful curation reflects this notion in the exhibition space itself.

Contextual information is usefully, but not excessively, provided, in each of the rooms, and is sometimes even quirky. A highlight is the backstory of a series of portraits of Ethel Scull (1963), which explain how Warhol, armed with a hundred dollars’ worth of change, took her to a photo-booth and shot image after image after image, before picking the best 36 to use in the commissioned work. The result is a series of images of Scull in a variety of positions and a variety of colourways, which, when placed next to each other, produce a notable sense of movement – as if we are seeing her facial reactions throughout an average day.

A similar effect is enacted by the films included in the exhibition. Two Screen Tests, where people were asked by Warhol to sit and ‘do nothing’ in front of a rolling fi lm camera, are displayed on screens side by side. The focused gazes, combined with the participants’ minute twitches, make for a strangely transfixing (and utterly disarming) experience. A 50-minute excerpt from Empire State, Warhol’s eight hour film of the changing daylight on the eponymous New York skyscraper, is shown on a screen on the perpendicular wall. The juxtaposition leads one to draw parallels between the building and the faces, both standing still in front of the camera but also minutely changing.

Warhol seems fascinated with the motion created through repetition, with his portraits of Watson Powell (American Man) providing an early illustration of this. Later on, we get a small selection of the hundreds of society portraits produced by the Warhol Factory, displayed in a large grid on a colossal wall. The portraits are often repeated with minor changes in colourways. In the same room hangs Twenty Fuchsia Maos (1979), which takes the official image of the leader disseminated throughout China in The Little Red Book and repeats it again and again in a gaudy colourway. Rosenthal’s note to the piece likens the image to the widely disseminated Coca Cola logo, and highlights Warhol’s transformation of a necessarily static image – a logo, or official portrait – into something changing and mutable.

The final room of the exhibition is, in this respect, unexpected, and more than a little jarring. Devoted to his late work, it is filled with black and white pieces which often focus on religious subjects. Subtle changes and the resultant movement they create give way to a preoccupation with dichotomies: between black and white, or ‘Heaven’ and ‘Hell.’ Repetition only occurs in the form of positive and negative versions of the same work, further emphasising a focus on the opposition of these extremes (or lack) of colour.

Postulating about the purpose or meaning behind Warhol’s work will always present a problem, particularly given the man himself continually refused to share his system of beliefs. Such an ambiguity can, perhaps, be seen as a reflection of Warhol’s diffidence in regards to his own image – he wore a wig from his 20s, narrowed his nose, and had repeated collagen injections in his later years. The self-portraits included in the exhibition are thus remarkable insights into a man of mystery, in that they articulate a desire for control over self-image. None are repeated like his other portraits, but rather each exists as a singular expression of himself. Yet that is not to say that these expressions are lucid or unaffected – rather, they are personas. As such, the resounding feeling upon leaving this exhibition is that we may never quite know what made the man under the wig tick.

What’s next for Dior?

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When Raf Simons left his position as creative director at Christian Dior last year, half the fashion world gasped, the other half breathed a sigh of relief.

Whether you loved him or hated him, it cannot be denied that his work at Dior was pivotal in opening the door to a younger public and placing the brand within the market of today’s fashion.

Simons’ practicality and minimalism was a breath of fresh air after the years of 90s extravagance under the guide of John Galliano. He transported us back to Monsieur Dior’s original vision of simplicity and elegance, while rethinking the cuts and textures to shake off the dust of 50 years of boredom.

Simons did not merely present a return to the essentials. As he stated after his first Dior show back in 2012, he wanted to “bring some emotion back”. Creating emotion from minimalism is not easy. Indeed, the sometimes reductive nature of such esssentialisations of form can stifle sentiment .Has Dior managed to retain the emotion in his absence?

The maison has not yet been able to find a suitable replacement but the work doesn’t stop at the atelier. A team of seven, including Mesdames Monique Bailly and Florence Chehet, whom you might remember from Frédéric Tcheng’s documentary Dior & I, designed and constructed the Haute Couture collection that was showcased in Paris a couple of weeks ago. The bar jacket was the undisputed protagonist in neutral autumnal colours, either grazing the hips or elongated to the calves, delicately balanced atop sumptuous dresses. The team honoured Simons’ legacy by combining fluid curves with more structural pieces, as in some of the jackets that were aggressively pulled down the shoulders in an awkward attempt to convey a Parisian effortlessness that was never there.

The team borrowed loosely from the archives, focusing the attention on precise needlework that decorated dresses and coats alike. However, it was also influenced by contemporary fashion, as seen in the Gothic transparencies worth of Hedi Slimane and the 70s-inspired pieces á la Ghesquière.

Ultimately, the collection was nothing short of beautiful, with an attention to details that, if taken a step further, could have meant the beginning of something great.

However, perhaps because it did not come from a single mind, it lacked a certain cohesion. There was no leitmotif, no invisible string to connect the pieces; rather it was a sequence of clothes that tasted of anonymity. Indeed, the bar jacket was there; the accentuated silhouettes was there; so was a hint of richness in the sparkling details. Yet, something important was missing: a Dior story, a vision – that grace and grandeur that is pure Haute Couture.

2016: Sportswear Society

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It is nearly impossible to ignore this trend. It includes wearing pieces that used to be only acceptable at the gym. However, this trend is now going global. In fact it is so prevalent that it has earned itself a Wikipedia article and even its own term: ‘athleisure’. It’s the trend where gymwear – yoga pants, sneakers, exercise tops, you name it, is worn as streetwear. Indeed, sportswear has become truly fashionable.

To some extent, sportswear as street clothing represents the high-pace lifestyle that the modern society fosters. We’re so busy that we can’t keep up unless we’re wearing trainers, and who wouldn’t mind running around in trainers compared to heels or uncomfortable flats? The first time I witnessed this trend was when I was in New York a few years ago. Seeing women dressed in formal office wear, moving about in sneakers on the street at first seemed absurd. Yet quite quickly, it all became logical: after a long day at work in heels, changing to comfortable shoes to get home is probably a wise idea. The trend has only grown and developed during the past few years.

Furthermore, the recent popularity of fitness and yoga, or of any sports relating to mindfulness, could be the reason for the success of athletic wear. In a world where there are colouring books for adults, commuting in trainers seems perfectly acceptable. Perhaps wearing sportswear in an everyday context reminds us of the importance of our health and wellbeing. In fact, it has been scientifically proven that people who exercise are happier. Incorporating sports into our everyday clothing could most definitely improve our well-being. At the very least, wearing sneakers could prevent the development of back pain.

One must not forgetting the intelligent marketing that brands themselves use. There is clear evidence of the popularity of ‘athleisure’; according to Morgan Stanley, the sales for athletic wear have increased 42 per cent over the past seven years.

Indeed, many sportswear brands have collaborated with big names so as to boost their sales. When people are willing to camp outside of a store in the middle of winter in ice cold Helsinki to get a pair of coveted Yeezy Boost sneakers (the product of Kanye West’s collaboration with Adidas), brands must be doing something right. On top of that, brands ranging from high street stores to high end boutiques have launched their own lines of sportswear. H&M was the true hybrid, bringing in Alexander Wang and his athletic aesthetic. Not to mention that Topshop is launching an athleisure range by Beyoncé for April 2016. Brands have truly made sportswear appealing to the masses.

In addition, certain celebrities have been extremely influential in putting sportswear into the public eye. For example, MØ, the Danish singer, incorporates sportswear in her eccentric everyday attire. As we witness people around us fuelling the trend, it becomes increasingly acceptable to appear as though you have just come from the gym.

On the other hand, athleisure is often not intended to be worn at the gym at all. Or even if intended, seems extremely inconvenient for that particular purpose. Looking at Alexander Wang’s H&M collection, the shirts and trousers for both men and women are fashionable and have a sporty flair, but are mostly not intended for physical exertion. Maybe a reason athletic wear is now socially acceptable is that the new outfits that are based on sports wear aren’t necessarily meant to be worn as sportswear at all. Wearing sportswear no longer implies sweating.

Sportswear will continue to drive growth in the fashion across 2016. It appears to have captured the attention of major designers and the trend continues to grow. Morgan Stanley predicts that the sales of such wear will boom, adding $83 billion to sales by 2020. The real question is whether athleisure is just a fleeting phenomenon or here to stay.

Ray’s Chapter & Worse: HT 4th week

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I am writing this whilst holed up in the nuclear bunker that is the Lower Gladstone Link. If Trump ever gets to power and gets control of that big red nuclear button, this is where you’ll find me- clutching a bag of dried pasta, a box set of Blackadder and the tattered remnants of my reading list, a wedge of paper so big it successfully managed to protect me from the brunt of the blast.

Now, let me get one thing straight: I love the Bodleian. I mean, I really love it. I stop at the extent of having erotic dreams concerning the Duke Humphreys and black leather bookmarks, but I appreciate the incredible resource we have at our fingertips. If you ask for the History section in my local rural library, you will proudly be shown a battered selection of Bernard Cornwell books. But it can be a little, well, dull. I mean, ‘The Nonconformist Church and Hebrew Inscriptions in Victorian England’… riveting bedtime reading.

But despite being halfway through a History degree that practically requires you to live in the Bod, I have failed to come across one thing: a joke book. Or, for that matter, a joke of any description (unless you count quite a few of my essays). Fair enough, it’s an academic library, but I don’t think this should exclude it completely from the element of humour. I mean, surely the Upper Glink could be improved with this emblazoned on one of the walls:

Wiwis by Roger McGough

To amuse

Emus

On warm summer nights

Kiwis

Do wiwis

From spectacular heights.

 

Now try to tell me that wouldn’t cheer up your daily expedition to collect your reading list. Oxford has a distinct tendency to take itself far too seriously: the recent Rhodes Must Fall campaign is a case in point. We are all terribly important students, with terribly important acts of social justice to implement, thank you very much. The argument oscillated exclusively between removing or retaining the statue- no one suggested humour and ridicule as a method of coming to terms with and dealing with our troubled past. We cannot escape colonialism- but we can mock it. A recent artist in Ukraine has been addressing the country’s Communist past by dressing up statues of revered leaders like Lenin up as Darth Vader. Star Wars characters are also standing in Ukrainian election campaigns. Initially this all sounds simply ridiculous, but when considered it makes complete sense: humour is an important weapon to both discuss our troubled past and make contemporary political points. Perhaps if Oxford University took a leaf out of Darth Vader’s book and lightened up, we could be able to have a more effective discussion of these controversial issues. If we left Cecil Rhodes up there on his plinth but dressed him in a pink tutu and tiara, we might perhaps be able to send out a less tumultuous and fractured signal to the rest of the country.

But back to those poems…

Recycling by Roger mcGough

I care about the environment

And try to do what is right

So I cycle to work each morning

And recycle home every night.

 

Roger McGough’s writing is everything I enjoy about reading, and about communication through poetry- short, pithy, and completely hilarious. True, I have a terrible soft spot for bad puns, but quite apart from this I think his poetry contains a deeper message: not everything has to be serious. There is enough time in our days to fit in a moment or two of levity and funny poems, even if it is four lines of silly rhyme that makes us smile. When the time comes and Trump lets rip on that nuclear arsenal (pardon the pun), I sincerely hope the Bod has some of Roger McGough’s work stocked to help me through those long, dark, apocalyptic nights. The world, and Oxford in particular, needs more of his daft humour. 

Cane Toads by Roger McGough

Please don’t.

Pyrotechnics, Smoke and Mirrors

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I’m afraid to say I have to make an admission – I’ve never seen Phantom of the Opera, and I had no real idea what it was about beforeI came to write this preview. It has always been relegated in my mind to that strange, campy underworld of the West End Musical, so I was slightly surprised when this production at the O’Reilly managed to sell out quite so quickly, and even more so when the extra Sunday matinee managed to sell out in 20 seconds (considerably faster than even the Keble Ball.) The wonderful thing about writing previews for completely sold out shows is that it requires practically no journalistic integrity (which of course, we have by the bucketload here at Cherwell) – I could write the most stupendous, hype inducing piece, and it would have no effect other than to make those without tickets more jealous.

Speaking to director Sarah Wright and musical director Callum Spiller, I began to get a sense of what a mammoth effort had gone into this sell-out production. Firstly, it’s incredibly difficult to get the rights to perform Phantom of the Opera, given that it is still running in the West End. The production company managed to get their hands on the licence more than 18 months ago. 

This makes this production something of a once in a lifetime opportunity, and a team coalesced with great rapidity; as Sarah remarked, “You’re always going to want to do Phantom; what other chance will you get?” The terms of their usage are so strict that they had to get their O’Reilly slot pushed forward to Fifth Week, as a member of the cast turns 22 in Sixth Week and thus would have been ineligible to perform under their ‘student and young persons’ contract.

In order to break with this still-running West End production, Wright wanted to shed some of the campy 80s image which characterises that production and stylistically move towards “smoke and mirrors, illusion and decay” – a bold statement that should prove for interesting design choices on the night.

It’s going to be a tight fit, and aside from the cast and orchestra of more than 40 people, there is also one of the most impressive tech line-ups I’ve ever seen on a student production. As costume designer Jennifer Hurd put it, Phantom “pushes the boundaries of what you can do in the O’Reilly, of what students can do anywhere.” This production is going to have pyrotechnics, real life fire, a hand-threaded chandelier of 141, 000 beads (which will come crashing down), a rotating stage comprised of two independently turning concentric circles, and over 100 outfits comprised of more than 600 individual costume pieces.

The only thing more impressive than the technical line-up is some of the cast’s former achievements: in Indyana Schneider they have a Carlotta who sung unamplified at the Sydney Opera House, and in Laurence Jeffcoate they have a Raoul who won the BBC’s I’d Do Anything competition and accordingly played Oliver Twist in a West End production.

To leave you with one final hype-inducing quotation (as if that schedule of over-achievement wasn’t enough), the director summed it up quite neatly when she reflected, “There is nothing that is not insane about this show!” I’m excited to see Phantom of the Opera for the very first time next week. If you’ve got a ticket, you presumably are as well. 

 

William Shakespeare and the year of Lear

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Although it has been a decade since James Shapiro’s prize-winning 1599: A Year in the Life of William Shakespeare, it seems the author himself has been content to move at a slower pace. His latest book takes us seven years forward, to the creation of the three plays of 1606: King Lear, Macbeth and Antony and Cleopatra.

Dates remain at the centre of 1606: William Shakespeare and the Year of Lear. Shapiro finds this is not only as a remarkably productive year for Shakespeare but also marks his transformation into a Jacobean author. We usually consider Shakespeare to be an Elizabethan, but, as Shapiro reminds us, “the last decade of his life was spent as a King’s Man under James.” The great success of this book is to demonstrate again and again the importance of these unstable contexts to Shakespeare’s output. In his characteristically lively style, Shapiro deftly navigates the reader through the pivotal moments of the nation’s transition to Stuart rule and their infl uence on the plays of the period.

The seismic event of the time was the November 1605 with Guy Fawkes’ discovery in the basements below Parliament. Even though the plot had been foiled, the ensuing trials and executions continued to pour salt into the national sore. For Shapiro, the “shrewdest of them must… have realised that even if nothing had been physically destroyed, something had inescapably changed in their world.” Shakespeare was such an observer; the plays which follow the Gunpowder Plot, notably Macbeth, probe the questions surrounding the plot more deeply. Is evil on such a scale the result of demonic possession? Or the product of more human forces, ‘Another Hell above the Ground’?

There are times when Shapiro seems a little too keen to suggest an all-seeing, all-knowing playwright. At one point, as military preparations are being made to put down the furtive uprising in late-1605, we are told that, “Few in England would have known the roads, towns and terrain” of the Midlands as well as Shakespeare. Whilst I am willing to concede that “as a strolling player and a native of Warwickshire” he knew the Midlands well, to suggest that he might be privileged in this knowledge seems a little farfetched. Shakespeare was not alone in having to tramp the roads in search of work; many young women regularly moved to take up places in houses before marrying. A similar argument could be made for tradesmen, MPs or country gentry.

This is a minor criticism but one that reveals Shapiro’s vision of Shakespeare as a “reader of his culture.” The genius of Shakespeare in 1606 lies in his ability to sense the shifts and concerns of his time. To my mind, such an argument brings about the best chapter in the book, when Shapiro discusses the ways in which Shakespeare rewrote a newly published play, ‘King Leir’.

Just as Shakespeare reworked old plays, so Shapiro has deftly revived the idea behind 1599. We can only hope that he might next turn his attention to a new year, possibly 1610-1, the year which gave birth to The Tempest, The Winter’s Tale and Cymberline. Then we might safely say of the bard, as Edgar in King Lear: ‘Thy life’s a miracle’

Is This Art? The X Factor

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The X Factor is a phenomenon of massive proportions. Thousands of people queue across the country for thousands of hours to have the opportunity to sing in front of the master of music himself, Simon Cowell. In the beginning, in those heady early noughties when viewing fi gures were at their peak, The X Factor was the only topic of conversation. It was the cornerstone to which we bound our hesitant small talk with hairdressers. It was the bedrock of every discussion at the beginning of every year eight science class. It bridged the generational gap between grandparent and adolescent grandchild during every slow Sunday lunch. Who was going to win? Does Wagner share a similar level of talent to his namesake? Is Simon Cowell’s hair for real?

The glorious noughties however have faded to a distant teenage memory, much like the nauseatingly sugary smell of Britney Spears perfume and the youthful innocence of Justin Bieber. And yet, in some slightly dusty corner of ITV, The X Factor carnival continues. Producers, judges, and auditionees cling to the continuation of this televisual juggernaut as sailors to a sinking ship with Simon Cowell at the helm. Indeed, Captain Cowell returned to his vessel after a brief absence in 2014. It was hoped that his renewed captaincy would rekindle the viewing fi gures and so bring back the millions who had turned their attentions to alternatives. Instead, since his return in 2014, ratings have continued to dwindle.

The show is an artistic expression of a specifi c aspect of the human experience; hope. Thousands of people hope that their patchy rendition of the Titanic theme will tug at Cowell’s cold heart. Contestants hope that their performance will be the stuff of musical legend. Guest judges hope that their appearance as a guiding light will reignite their own faltering musical careers. People across Britain continue to phone in on their BT landlines and other networks that may be charged in the hope that their democratic contribution will infl uence the future of music. Cowell himself hoped that his return to the captain’s seat would steer his ship back to the glory of 2010.

It’s an expression of hope in an environment of continuing hopelessness. It is, in this way, a representation of the own delusional optimism of humanity. To this very day, The X Factor continues its descent along the arc of success. Its descent continues to be a poignant artistic expression of hope. In this way, it is very much a part of the modern artistic landscape