Saturday 2nd August 2025
Blog Page 1091

Oxford’s Maddest Sport Fan

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I consider myself a calm person in general, but if you want to make me see red then do one or both of the following two things:

1. Talk trash about the Miami Heat. I will come at you with the force of a thousand suns and unload upon you a list of reasons why the Heat is one of the best sports teams to have ever existed and why Dwyane Wade’s face should be carved on Mount Rushmore next to the four great American Presidents – preferably in that awkward gap between Lincoln and Roosevelt.

2. Ask me why I support the Heat even though I’ve never been to Miami. If you’re really of the mindset that proximity to a club is a good measure of how intense your loyalty is, then either you’re still stuck in the 1920s or you don’t understand sports at all.

I’ll concede that my obsession for the Miami Heat was very much accidental. Everyone at school was talking about LeBron versus Carmelo, and I just sat there and decided that I was going to be indie and pledge my allegiance to Dwyane Wade. This was right before Shaq made his way from LA to South Beach and became the Robin to Wade’s Batman. I watched my first Heat game in 2005 and it was as close to love at first sight as you can get. Wade quickly became my sporting hero and basketball became my passion. I tuned in to as many Miami games as I could manage, which, given the 12-hour time difference, was quite a feat. I single-handedly revived the vintage sportswear game by wearing a Wade jersey on every free-dress day from year seven to year nine. At one point I actually asked my parents if I could change my name to Dwyane, which, as many readers of the Asian persuasion out there will know, did not end in my favour. I may have never been to a game live or even the state of Florida, but I could name you all 15 players on the roster, what college they went to and what their favourite breakfast cereal is. It’s that real.

Which brings me back to what really grinds my gears: no one’s sport loyalty should be doubted. I get that sports teams can have great inspiring impacts on their local communities, something that you can only really experience as a member of these communities, but why should my or anybody’s love for a team be any less legitimate simply because we’re from a different place? All sports have international exposure now, to the extent that there may honestly be more Heat fans in Shanghai than there are in London. Our fandom may not have been passed on from the elder generations and we may not have cute heart-warming stories about watching the games live, but we’re still connected to our teams in ways that are just as meaningful as local pride.

Take me for example. I moved a lot as a kid – I spent my childhood in four cities, went to five different kindergartens, two high schools and had a lot of friendships that only lasted about a year or two. There weren’t many continuities in my life, except for my love for Miami Heat – no matter where I was, that never changed and it honestly became part of who I am.

I may not bleed Miami or London, but I do bleed Heat basketball

Oxford boxing looks to hit big

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We are just a week away from the seminal sporting event of the term: Town versus Gown. On Wednesday of Third Week, the Oxford University Amateur Boxing Club (OUABC) takes on the best of Oxford town in the debating chamber of the Oxford Union.

For the OUABC boxers, the event is crucial, providing valuable insight into the shape of the squad as the run-up to the club’s encounter with Cambridge intensifies. So far, Matt McFahn (Captain,) Tom Eliasz, Tom Scott, Theo Cox, Daniel Kibbey and Noah Viner have all confirmed bouts for next week.
Once Town V Gown is out of the way, OUABC will turn its attention to greater challenges: BUCS and Varsity. The BUCS campaign begins on 6th February with the first of the club’s league bouts, which are an equally important opportunity for the University’s boxers.

Tim Notke, an American high school basketball coach, once said that “hard work beats talent when talent doesn’t work hard.” Luckily for OUABC, with external competition round the corner, it seems talent and hard work is present in equal measure. With four gym sessions and four morning workouts a week, the Oxford boxers are arguably one of the University’s most dedicated outfits. The gruelling January training camp in Tenerife is testament to that. Such is the confidence in the OUABC ranks that men’s captain Matt McFahn has set out the aim to “not only win Varsity, but do so clearly”.

Preparations for this term’s season-defining bouts stretched back well before Christmas. Whilst BUCS and Varsity are undoubtedly the highlights of Hilary term for the club, Michaelmas was not without competitive action. In October, the OUABC President Claudia Havranek and women’s captain Mariya Lazarova attended the England Novice Boxing Championships, with both women performing well before suffering closely-fought quarter-final defeats to seasoned Army opposition. Even more impressively, McFahn reaped the rewards of his early season fitness work, coming out on top in the Home Counties Under 20 category and securing himself a national bronze, just falling short against the competition’s eventual champion.

2015 was a year in which enormous strides were made in women’s boxing at Oxford. The current OUABC women’s squad is the largest ever and there will be high hopes for accolades on both sides of the club this year. Hitting punch bags with Herculean might while being as light as a butterfly on one’s toes is not just the prerogative of OUABC’s muscly male stars. The women of Iffley’s boxing gym are equally as adept at fighting in the quadrilateral ring. In fact OUABC has a team of six highly trained female boxers who take to the ring in dark blue in many competitions including, in 2015, being the sole female-only team in BUCS.

Of course, despite a packed early-term schedule, it is Varsity that looms large on the Hilary fixture list. The club secretary, James Kerr, summed up the emotions of the whole squad when he set out his desperation to “retake the Truelove Bowl from Cambridge in front of a home crowd”.
With a strong number of spectators set to descend upon the Town Hall, the event is sure to be as fiercely supported as it is contested. If OUABC can cap off an already promising season with BUCS, Town V Gown and Varsity success, it will be an achievement that is both impressive and wholly deserved

Puck-er up for Ice Hockey

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There is a certain kind of fearlessness and madness required to play ice hockey, judging by most people’s reaction to telling them your sport of preference. Most people wouldn’t spend their Saturday afternoons beating other people up while traveling back and forth at high speeds over a slippery surface at temperatures well below freezing. But the sport has nevertheless gained a cult following within Oxford, and it’s important to consider why.

The most obvious answer is, of course, success, which both the men’s and women’s hockey teams have enjoyed plenty of throughout the course of the season. Since the start of the season in October 2015, the men’s blues have enjoyed a nearly impeccable record of 3-1, recovering from their early-season loss to dominate on the ice. Their most recent match was an impressive victory of 12-3 against the University of London Dragons. With two rematches against Cambridge coming up in February and March, one the annual Varsity showdown, the ice hockey team looks strong. The women’s team has broken even with a score of 2-2, showing incredible improvements in their attacking drives in both of their most recent victories. At the end of November, the women’s blues played back to back matches against Imperial and Cardiff and won both, one by a particularly impressive margin of 12 points.

It’s clear that competing at such a high level and on such a frequent basis (although seasons average about 10 matches at the top competitive ranks, scheduling ice time within the limited number of available rinks means teams can play games on both the Saturday and Sunday of any given week) takes enormous amounts of training. But success in hockey demands a wide range of skills; players are not only expected to keep up with general fitness during the off season, but also to refine ice-specific techniques that are not imitated in any other sport. Skating requires incredible balance and speed, and hour-long games with frequent line changes mean players must have incredible endurance in order to maintain peak performance. Players also make incredible sacrifices to be able to compete for their team on a regular basis; training times are often irregular, with both men and women’s teams practicing at midnight and 11pm respectively on a weekly basis.

Given the dedication, time, and skills required, why do so many players choose ice hockey? Although Oxford is fortunate to enjoy such impressive records in the present day, the teams at the University date back, albeit non-continuously, to 1885, and officially since 1921. Today there are three main ice hockey teams at the University: the Men’s Blues; the Women’s Blues, and a second Men’s team, the Vikings. The Men’s Blues, compete at a higher level within the league than the Vikings and are comprised of 18 players, divided by position. The women’s team is of a similar size, hosting 19 players on the roster. The women’s team have been lucky enough to find two players skilled at the goalie position, which remains both difficult and somewhat unpopular as it involves having 55 mph slapshots fly at your face. The Vikings roster has 17 active players, although numbers can fluctuate between years depending on how many first time hockey players decide to join the team.

It’s a fast-paced, often violent, always-competitive sport creating an atmosphere that fosters popularity with its players and its fans. Although skaters are assigned positions on the ice, the current trend for two-way hockey (a style of play created by the Boston Bruins’ Bobby Orr in the 1970s) means that both defencemen and forwards contribute to the offensive side of play, which not only builds a strong dynamic within the team, but also allows more players to score, bringing more energy to their technique.
Some players choose ice hockey for the opportunities that it provides them. OUIHC opens its doors to all students, regardless of previous experience. Others are experienced players, with several hailing from outside the UK, and choose it because it is culturally familiar. Some Blues even turned their experience with the team into a lifelong passion for the sport; former NHL President Clarence Campbell played for the club during his time at Oxford.
Ultimately, it provides students not only with a venue and ice time, but with a team, an alumni network, and dedicated fans who share their passion for the sport. A passion rooted in the strength of the game.

It may be the historical or cultural significance, or it may be the optimal schedule for the nocturnals among us, or it may be because someone took a few too many leaflets at the Freshers’ Fair and ultimately realized that they had to pick something; but the essence of ice hockey’s popularity will always be the excitement that it gives to both players and fans, and it is that more than anything else that is responsible for its success

Oxford University rejects PM’s criticisms

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In a column for The Sunday Times, the prime minister cited institutional racism as an issue he planned to combat under his administration.

Specifically, he called out Oxford for “[accepting] just 27 black men and women out of an intake of more than 2,500″ in 2014.

He wrote that he intends “to legislate to place a new transparency duty on universities to publish data routinely about the people who apply to their institution, the subject they want to study, and who gets offered a place. And this will include a full breakdown of their gender, ethnicity and socioeconomic background.

The University responded, however, to Cameron’s calls for more admissions information to be published by saying that much of his suggested reform was already in place.

Dr Julia Paolitto, media relations manager for Oxford, told Cherwell, “Oxford already publishes (and has done for many years) most of the information the PM is calling for, which is why we are saying we don’t feel legislation is necessary for our purposes. In fact, the figure Cameron cited in his op-ed piece for our 2014 BME intake he only got because it’s openly available on our website – along with a lot more data besides.”

A university spokesperson said, “We are constantly working to update what information we provide and although we do not see the need for further legislation, we would welcome discussions on what more information we could publish.”

The statement pointed out, “Our most recent statistics for British undergraduate students show that Oxford has made progress against a challenging backdrop of changes to the educational landscape and student funding. For entry in 2015 Oxford accepted 367 UK undergraduates students from ethnic minority backgrounds (a 15 per cent increase on 2010) – and its intake of British undergraduate students from black backgrounds alone has grown by more than 60 per cent since 2010 (from 39 to 64). Across our student body as a whole 24 per cent of students are from ethnic minority backgrounds, and our student mix is very much in line with other highly selective universities.”

In any case, the spokesperson added, “The effects of social inequality are already pronounced before children begin formal schooling, and universities, schools and government must work together to address their root causes effectively.”

The statement also included a link to admissions information provided by Oxford.

Street Style: HT16 3rd week

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Patrick – German and Linguistics Student at Brasenose

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“I tend to wear dark clothes normally and I like things to be comfy. So that’s why I’m wearing sweat pants, for instance. And I only just woke up, so – you know – it’s just something quite easy and comfortable, and practical. But at the same time I like wearing white shirts – I think they go well with the colours that I tend to wear. It’s a more classical thing for me.

“I buy some things in Zara. I’m from Poland, so other things are from Polish shops. But I don’t think the shop really matters – sometimes I look through them all and then I see something nice that arouses my interest. I’m not this kind of typical fashion person. I wouldn’t say that.

“In Poland I don’t think people pay as much attention to what they’re wearing, which I think is a good thing – I think you should wear what you feel comfortable in, and that you shouldn’t judge people. I think the variety here is better. It’s really hard to find the right size for me in Poland because people are often one shape, and I’m a bit skinny and not so tall. It’s quite difficult to find pants and stuff. Here, just because people are so different and there are so many cultural backgrounds, you can find all sorts of clothes.” 

 

Bethany, graduated last year, working in Peterborough

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“I’ve visting the city. I’m just wandering. I’ve been for brunch at the Art Cafe.

“I’m wearing Topshop jeans, New Look top and coat, and obviously Adidas trainers. I usually buy my clothes in store so I can try things on and see if they suit me. I hate the hassle of having to send things back, really.

“I like roll necks at the moment, pretty casual things – I’m always looking for more trainers, jeans, things like that. “

 

Jess, Beauty Therapy student at Abingdon

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“My jacket is from New Look and my top is Apricot, but from New Look, again. This other jacket is from an online retailer called La Redoute and my jeans are New Look. So basically all New Look! As well as the bag.

“I’ve got a bigger New Look where I live, but the one here is nice. I do most of my shopping in store.

“I look to some celebrities for fashion inspiration … I like Ferne McCann. I like what she wears a lot. I use Instagram to look at fashion-related things. It’s definitely changed how I think of clothes: I see things in store and I’m not too sure, then I see them on people and they seem more wearable.

“I’m off to see my boyfriend today!” 

Oriel JCR to debate motion condemning Governing Body

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A series of motions criticising the actions taken by Oriel’s Governing Body over Rhodes Must Fall last week are set to be debated tonight by Oriel JCR.

Following a meeting of Governing Body last week, the College resolved not to remove the statue of Cecil Rhodes, despite having pledged in December to conduct a six-month ‘listening exercise’ scheduled to begin this month.

Four motions have been proposed by the JCR President:

“i. This JCR condemns Governing Body for failing to listen to the voices of students in relation to the issues surrounding the fate of the statue and plaque commemorating Cecil Rhodes and, in doing this, revoking the opportunity that was promised to students in the six month listening exercise.

“ii. This JCR condemns the College for failing to inform the JCR President that an unscheduled Governing Body meeting took place and for failing to brief the JCR President about it beforehand.

“iii. This JCR condemns the gross breach of trust that led to The Telegraph acquiring and publishing Governing Body papers relating to the statue and plaque commemorating Cecil Rhodes.

“iv. This JCR calls for Oriel College to create the position of ‘Tutor for Equality’, and to consult the student body at every stage of the creation and implementation of this position.”

Documents leaked by The Telegraph purportedly from the Governing Body meeting in question suggest that the College was faced with significant financial threats from donors opposed to the removal of the statue of Cecil Rhodes.

RMF announces ‘seven demands’ at press conference

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Rhodes Must Fall in Oxford (RMFO) held a press conference early Monday morning to layout its new objectives and agenda following Oriel College’s decision January 27 not to remove the statue of Cecil Rhodes that has come to epitomize the movement.

The movement placed significant focus on what they deemed the “dictatorship of a small number of donors” and such donors’ supposed coercive effect on college and university policy. They especially noted the reversal from the listening exercises Oriel promised in December.

They said in their statement, “It is clear that Oriel has been influenced significantly by the threats of donors keen to maintain symbols of Cecil Rhodes, as has been demonstrated by the threats of donors keen to maintain symbols of Cecil Rhodes, as has been demonstrated in a report written by Oriel’s development dictator.”

“Put simply, Oriel sold out.” the collective said. “It sold out when Cecil Rhodes first poured his blood money into the College. And it sold out again when it decided that the voices of wealthy alumni were more important than the voices of the students committed to their direction, protection and care.

This was part of an overarching critique of “the larger problem of the neoliberalisation of higher education which is exemplified by cuts in government spending on education.”

RMFO also emphasized its commitment to free speech and democracy, citing their participation in the Oxford Union debate on January 21 and saying, “We have debated, petitioned, discussed, and listened.” They claimed that motions passed in JCRs and MCRs were indicative of widespread student support for their demands.

RMFO also flipped a critique of their movement, which has argued that they are interested in avoiding uncomfortable debate. They said, “Our campaign has never been about safe spaces. But the Chancellor [Chris Patten] is clearly keen to carve out a safe space of his own, where debates about colonialism can be silenced and swept under the carpet.”

Most significantly, perhaps, the movement released seven demands going forward including a decolonized curriculum, payment for “the work of anti-racist students and staff”, and for the University to “cease public smear campaigns” of the movement.

The press conference continued after the statement with questions from the media. 

An uncomfortable moment arose when, pressed for details about other buildings that might be renamed, an organising member cited concern for democracy as a reason not to propose candidates for recontextualisation. 

It was also stated that RMFO sees that it has not lost as “the game wasn’t played fairly” and as a result would redouble their efforts.

After the conference, organising member Andre Dallas told Cherwell that, “The wider movement and curriculum changes seem pretty well-perceived. The statue is a more divisive. If after listening exercises, involving all the stakeholders and weighting their views fairly, it was seen as a good idea not to take down the statue, we would be open to that rather than the farce that occurred.”

When pressed, he said that “one of the main critiques of the statue is that it affects more impactfully descendants of those oppressed be colonialism. In my opinion, then, the opinions of those alienated by the icon should be weighted more heavily.

“It is more nuanced than a simple numbers game given that the space is so skewed. A majority of a colonized space ignorant of the crimes of colonialism”, he said, citing that the Provost of Oriel had been unaware of the extent of Rhodes’ crimes, “might not representative.”

Rhodes Must Fall in Oxford’s “manifesto”:

First, we want a reckoning. We want Oxford to acknowledge and confront its role in the ongoing physical and ideological violence of empire. This requires an apology and increased scholarships for black students from Southern Africa.

Second, we want a commitment to recontextualizing iconography celebrating figures of grave injustice. Murderous colonists and slaveholders belong in books and museums, not on the sides of buildings. This requires the removal and rehousing of statues and portraits, and the renaming of buildings.

Third, we want a decolonized curriculum. We want to hear the voices suffocated into silence by a Eurocentric academy. We want to study different systems of knowledge and explore the work of people who deviate from the white Western canon that we are forcefed.

Fourth, we want representation for people of colour at all levels of the university. This requires, amongst other things, blind marked applications and implicit bias training for all academic staff.

Fifth, we want an immediate end to the outright racism people of colour face on campus. We want effective recourse for students, academics and non-academic staff to deal with racist discrimination and harassment. This requires race workshops for all incoming student cohorts. This requires an effective system for students and staff to report incidents of racism, which acknowledges the intersectional way that oppression based on racism interacts with oppression based on class, gender disability, and other grounds.

Sixth, we want the University to take responsibility for the culture it perpetuates. We want the work of anti-racist students and staff to be recognised and institutionalised. This requires payment for our labour. This requires a specific sabbatical position for Race at the Oxford University Students Union and paid Tutor for Race positions at both college and university level.

Seventh, we want the University and all related bodies to cease smear campaigns, and private intimidation, of our movement and our members.

The OxStew: Cellar isn’t working

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Queues are forming outside popular Oxford nightclub The Cellar for events scheduled to take place in four years’ time.

The Cellar, best known for edgy grime nights populated by private-school white boys and a magical ceiling that rains human sweat back down on those it came from, has not yet announced any specific events or even whether it will still be open in the difficult economic climate that is Oxford nightlife, but The OxStew can exclusively reveal that tents have appeared on Cornmarket outside the door in a queue that stretches all the way to the Burger King near Ship Street. The queuing comes after controversial instances of overcrowding, pushing in and unpoliced queues at the nightclub and also the Oxford Union.

One female student, who asked only to be identified by her Ellesse sweater and bucket hat, told The OxStew, “I’m only 15 and haven’t chosen my A-levels yet, let alone applied to Oxford, but if there is even the slightest chance that I will be here in 2020 I fully intend to make it into Disco Stu, Grime and Punishment or whatever the equivalent nights are when all of you lot have graduated and found jobs and spouses.

“I also want to be here so my friends can surreptitiously come and pretend to speak to me when actually they are pushing in, as our £24,000-a-year educations give us the right to do.”

Meanwhile, vigilantes predominantly armed with gunfingers have been patrolling Cornmarket on the lookout for potential queue jumpers. Reports indicate many of those suspected of pushing in are claiming to be on their way to McDonald’s or the Purple Turtle.

One fourth-year vigilante said, “It’s a time-honoured tactic to tell people you’ve ‘already been in’ to P.T. and half-arsedly show a stamp that may or may not be from there, but we’re wise to it. As a general rule we get rid of these types by shaming them out of the queue through the extreme mockery of their Reeboks or the suggestion that their shell jacket is non-vintage. I actually did that to a girl earlier, even though she was wearing Stone Island that she had clearly bought on the Oxford Women’s Sale Facebook group.

“Very edgy.”

Around the corner, queues are also forming for Union events scheduled to take place at some point in the next decade. One fresher near the front of the line told The OxStew, “If my DPhil application is accepted then I stand a decent chance of hearing whichever far-right politician the Union decides to invite to cause controversy in 2025. I’m not sure who that will be or what the political landscape will look like in nine years, but I’m sure it will be good for free speech.”

The OxStew tried to contact a bouncer from The Cellar for comment, but could not find one, which should not really have come as a surprise.

Goodbye Sir Terry

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Wogan’s charm was that he never took himself too seriously. In one particularly memorable encounter on his 1970s gameshow Blankety Blank, the entertainer Kenny Everett proceeded to berate him for looking like a bank manager. Even if he did look like the straight laced director of your local TSB, he retained that twinkle in his eye. While Everett proceeded to bend in half Terry’s trademark ‘car ariel’ microphone, he quickly bounced off his younger rival presenter with a series of ad-libbed remarks. “They’ll make you pay for that” he retorted as he proceeded to wander road the set talking into the visible folded microphone as if nothing was amiss.

That twinkle, the sharp wit and the curmudgeonly but warm persona that he carried helped him transfer between radio and television with ease. As one of the staples of the BBC’s big annual events, the charity telethon Children In Need, and the Eurovision Song Contest, he was a reliable certainty in life. For millions growing up since the 1970s, Wogan was ever present from Saturday night entertainment, to his early morning breakfast radio show. 

Who can forget his observations on Eurovision? While Graham Norton has been a worthy successor, he has been so far unable to fill the great shoes left by his predecessor. He even had the opportunity to host the contest in 1998 (something Graham Norton is unlikely to get the chance to do this side of the twenty-second century). It was the first year that Eurovision winners were selected by mass public telephone voting. Wogan, with typical dry wit remarked on-air: “so, you’ll have no-one to blame but yourself.” 

Recently, the BBC repeated some episodes of his eponymous chat show, aired at their peak three times a week in the 1980s. He was a certainly a huge draw for audiences and talent, even resurrecting some careers. Cilla Black was springboarded back into the public consciousness after one memorable appearance in 1986, while the show still retained the moniker Wogan even when Wogan himself was unable to appear. How many other stars have had a chat show named after them when they haven’t even been able to present it?

I’ll always remember one of his forgotten shows. Earlier this decade he made a travelogue where he returned to his native Ireland to see how much it had changed since his youth. It was informative, but above all fun. It felt like you were being taken on a trip by a distant relative just happy to have someone to talk to. Even if he had a huge audience, it would seem like he was talking directly to you, and you alone. Jeremy Vine today recounted an old story, apparently the Queen once asked him “how many listeners do you receive?”, the answer was millions, but Sir Terry just replied “one”. 

This is the gaping hole we’re left with now that Sir Terry Wogan has gone. His personal touch, his penchant for the friendly piss-take, and above all his recognisable warm presence. As last year’s Children in Need proved, we’ll notice him most, now that he’s no longer here.

The Rise of Realness

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Typing “how to be a model” into Google produces some hilarious results. A wikiHow article with 12 useful steps to help you walk like a model (e.g. “place one foot in front of the other”) is one such example but, jokes aside, the search will also bring up some scary results: the classic ‘34-24-34’ measurement requirements and trolls encouraging young vulnerable girls to exist off apples and Diet Coke. For years, models have been tall, skinny, ‘naturally beautiful’ and white, but change is in the air.

Jourdan Dunn spoke out against racist bias in bookings in 2015, telling Miss Vogue, “I find it weird when agents say, ‘You’re the only black girl booked for the show. Isn’t it great?’ Why is that great?” The people who control the industry use the argument that white faces sell better and though the bias doesn’t look set to shift any time soon, Lineisy Montero made history as the first black model to walk for Prada since 2008 and walked a grand total of 68 shows at the Spring shows. She is one of the only black models in the industry to wear her hair naturally. Winnie Harlow, who suffers from vitiligo, also challenged the ideal of perfect white skin when she starred in a Diesel campaign and featured in Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Glamour, amongst others.

Plus-sized models are a huge part of this push for change. Ashley Graham and Candice Huffine made waves when they appeared on the catwalks at New York Fashion Week. Even Victoria’s Secret, known for its impossibly skinny and toned ‘Angels,’ announced plans to adopt a plussized angel into the clan. A space has emerged for plus-sized models in high fashion and they are no longer confined to the pages of plus-sized catalogues or clothing lines.

“It’s more expected now for supermodels to be smart, to have opinions, to have a personality,” Rosie Huntington-Whiteley told The Observer. Lucy Greene and Pandora Lennard decided to create a business from this demand for personality and founded The Anti-Agency in 2013. They foster the careers of “very creative, very intelligent and very driven” young people who want to make some money to fund their other projects and use social media, rather than street spotting, as a way to seek out their clients. The creativity of the models shines through in the way they present themselves and makes them fascinating to look at.

A catwalk of real models, in all the senses discussed above, is a long way off, but milestones will continue to be overcome as long as stylists, designers and agents embrace more and more beautiful exceptions to the criterion, which they swear by.