Friday, May 23, 2025
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Loading the Canon: The Ocean at the End of the Lane

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“I saw the world I had walked since my birth and I understood how fragile it was, that the reality I knew was a thin layer of icing on a great dark birthday cake writhing with grubs and nightmares and hunger… I saw all these things, and understood them and they filled me, just as the waters of the ocean filled me.”

Fantastically dark and vivid, Gaiman’s The Ocean at The End of The Lane is a surrealist literary artwork which swallows the reader entirely from within the first few pages. From amongst the chapters jump out a spectacular pantheon of sinister creatures and vanquishers of evil both in parallel worlds and in our own, creating this magically poetic narrative which will remain at the fringes of the reader’s mind long after putting the book down.

The book commences with a young boy witnessing a suicide at the tender age of seven. The unnamed protagonist is immediately plunged into a series of events on his quiet country lane, as his life and that of his family merge with alternative realities which are in constant proximity to the human population of the planet. The adults within the novel seem entirely unaware of the dark forces at play, and fall victim to the manipulative dynamisms of unseen powers, as the young narrator of the tale discusses a couple of his childhood days on which his world, and that of everyone around him, was under the severest of threats. Told with brutal honesty and raw sincerity, the reader is engulfed in the mind of a child perplexed by the masonic secrecy of adulthood: becoming, believing, understanding, thinking entirely as a child once more. This dark fable challenges the reader to return to their own childhoods, to embrace the darkness that lives within and without and to recognise the powerful insight of a youngster.

This captivatingly beautiful short story defies all established conventions, whether of literary genres, the supernatural, or childhood and adult life expectations. It defies all notions of life and death, love, fear, and hatred. It challenges the security of our world, the stability of our society, and the strength of scientific explanations. It reminds us how momentary our lives are; how terrifyingly quickly people can change; how quickly our memories can and will fade and how soon we ourselves will merge into the distant past. Gaiman has opened up a timeless, spaceless void, which enchants and disturbs us, and which draws the reader into a vacuum they may never be able to leave behind. 

Alice Oswald talks about performance and public poetry

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Reading your favourite poetry and having it read aloud to you by its writer are very different experiences, as Alice Oswald’s recital as part of Keble’s ‘Meet the Poet’ series showed me. For the first time I was properly aware of the strong internal rhythms and cross-rhythms of poems I thought I knew inside out, watching from the front row as her bright red boot tapped them out and kept their complicated beat. 

I hope that was what she wanted listeners to take away from the performance, given her reply when I ask about the performance aspect a little later on. “I suppose I didn’t really perform my poems at first, but I was always interested in their tunes, and I wanted people to understand a more counterpointed tune than they seem to see on the page.” The intensity of the delivery with which she made these revelations made for a mesmerising hour or so of listening. We’re now crossing Keble’s quad in a dusk that has fallen during the recital, looking for quiet in a tutor’s office. 

Had we stayed at the venue, I would have barely managed to get a word in edgeways: Alice was surrounded by fans looking for in-depth discussion from the moment the applause died away. Despite the amount of sheer effort presumably required to sustain that level of energy for so long, she’s wound up with the excitement of the performance rather than exhausted by it. 

Her work, especially Memorial, drew me to the Iliad and probably put me on the path towards studying Classics in the first place, so I asked whether she has that accessibility, the idea of bringing classical literature to those who wouldn’t normally encounter it, in mind when she writes. “I think I draw on it because I’m obsessed with it,” she begins, “but part of my obsession is that it’s gathered the wrong atmosphere about it – a stodgy, stuffy, public school atmosphere. I’m always really pleased if people can get back some of freshness that I see in the actual Greek, so I’m really delighted if I can draw people to the Iliad.”

Aware that Oswald recently took part in a 12 hour reading of Paradise Lost in her local community, I enquired about whether she thought that those kinds of projects, which bring poetry into people’s lives, are a poet’s duty as a public figure, or whether it’s more her personal pleasure. “I don’t think poets do have duties – I think each poet finds their own duty. For me, I have a great wish not to become too literary, partly again because of Homer – I feel that literariness is quite deadening – so I’m always quite interested in how people survive from one moment to the next without writing, how people live a whole day without writing about it. 

“It’s not something I can do, and I’m really impressed with people who can. Also, I think that what I liked when studying Homer is the feeling that these poems were made by more than one person, and so I’ve always felt that one poet isn’t really enough to make poetry.”

We move on to her rejection of the T.S. Eliot prize in 2011 and the media attention that attracted: specifically whether she sees that kind of attention as a useful platform for bringing issues like the sponsorship of prizes into discussion, or whether she feels that too much focus on the poet as a person can detract from their work. “It’s difficult – of course one has a duty to not shelter in a non-political world. But, frustratingly, anything you say gets distorted, so if you’re not a specialist in those areas, it’s certainly best not to use it as a way of finding a platform. But, at the same time, you just have to do things for yourself.”

I’m so used to hearing her resonant voice on CD recordings or the radio that I’m soon reminded of her latest work, Tithonus, to which I’d listened recently, and its immersive quality; she’d written it over multiple dawns, sat by the riverbank. “I like to be immersed in my subject, but it doesn’t have to be a subject that’s outside in the world. I suppose the reason I focused on the natural world was partly because I was a gardener, but partly because it felt possible to connect to it, and I’m interested in whether it’s possible to grow that and to write about humans.”

Two indications about the next phase of her writing career begin to emerge. Oswald, it seems, would like to go more into the freedom of the mind rather than the concreteness of the world. She also now wants to focus on poems that aren’t necessarily designed for performance, aware that it’s becoming quite limiting to think that whatever she writes must be performed. They go in radically different directions to her previous work, but she is easily capable of managing such a change. 

“A voice,” she says, “is something that you have to grow – it’s not a stationary thing. If you write poems, you then have to grow a voice that can get to be big enough to say everything.” 

Preview: Iolanthe

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The Oxford University Gilbert & Sullivan Society weekly email is a guilty pleasure of mine. Though yet to attend a single meeting, the regular dose of comic opera silliness – the cocktail of one part innuendo to two parts gin – on which their society apparently subsists has long brightened my inbox. So the opportunity to see the group in action, at Monday’s previewed performance of Iolanthe, was not one that I would willingly miss.

Excitingly, what I discovered in the Corpus Christi auditorium was not simply a dramatic society brought together by Mother’s Ruin and fairly niche Victorian satire but an eager collection of immensely talented actors and singers preparing for a genuinely hilarious production.

For background, Iolanthe is a raucous comic opera satirising the House of Lords through the medium of fairy mischief and sexual frustration – calamities which doubtless touch us all.

It is brilliant.

Under the direction of Zoe Firth – a woman almost visibly bubbling over with enthusiasm – I was shown eight or so numbers from various sections of the show, each one alive with dynamic choreography and excellent choral performances. The standard of singing in Iolanthe is near to faultless, with each of the leading roles well cast, and performed with satisfying individuality: the Lord Chancellor (Will Momsett) cuts a pompous but quivering figure, while the Fairy Queen (Emilia Carslaw) balances the fearsome and lovelorn facets of her character with ease.

Scenes involving the fairy troupe are demure and ridiculous in equal measure, while the chorus of peers are a lecherous, bureaucratic delight; no joke about the impossibility of a House of Lords selected by ‘brains’ is likely to pass without winks and nods. The Earl of Mountararat (Fergus Butler-Gallie) is particularly entertaining during these political scenes, blustering through with all the ostentation of a blue-blooded Brian Blessed.

In terms of staging and costumes, the society president, Sophy Tuck, informed me that there will be “a full roof screen” for the backdrop during the run and that the pews and aisles of St John the Evangelist’s will be employed in performance, suggesting that the audience themselves may become peers in the Lords’ chamber. While the full wardrobe of costumes was not due until a later rehearsal, if the bright, flowing ensembles worn on Monday by Phyllis (Chloe Fairbanks) and the Fairy Queen are any indication of quality, then the final result will be stunning.

Even as we shuffled out into post-preview rain the cast’s energy was impossible to dampen – surrounded by a mish-mash of bizarre dialogue about “men with mothers too young for them”, as well as arias on frogs and “good Queen Bess”, I couldn’t help but wish I’d been able to see the whole thing.

If you enjoy cheerful bureaucracy, giggling at naughty words, ‘”very susceptible chancellors”, and/or genuinely first-rate vocal talent then Iolanthe is not a show to miss this 8th Week.

Preview: The Importance of Being Earnest

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”Untruthful! My nephew Algernon? Impossible! He is an Oxonian.”

Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest is frequently performed, but being a play of some fame, rarely experimented with quite to the extent that St Hilda’s College Drama Society is doing in 7th week. Whilst keeping the original script, the actors are dressed in modern attire, send text messages instead of telegrams, and Lady Bracknell raises her eyebrows at the iPad that deftly replaces her notebook. Andrew Crump positively struts around on stage, sporting a black leather jacket, as a suave yet extremely annoying Algernon Moncrieff – permanently getting on the nerves of his (spoiler alert) little brother, the periodically flustered Jack Worthing (Callum Luckett). Crump describes his character as “fun to have around, but not really fun to be with,” something Luckett, reaching unsuccessfully for his leopard print cigarette case, heartily agrees with.

The reverberating voice of the reverend Chasuble, as he preaches his “sermon on the meaning of the manna in the wilderness [which] can be adapted to almost any occasion,” floats above the variously prejudiced and posturing cast members with utter gravity, depriving the situation of its last chance of seriousness.  What does infuse the play with a hint of tragedy is Miss Prism’s confessional account concerning a handbag, a perambulator and “the manuscript of a three-volume novel of more than usually revolting sentimentality” recounted in a heartbreaking manner by Laura Gledhill.

And then there is of course Lady Bracknell, delivering such gems of Wilde’s subversive wit as: “To be born, or at any rate bred in a handbag, whether it have handles or not, seems to me to display a contempt for the ordinary decencies of family life which reminds one of the worst excesses of the French revolution, and I presume you know what that unfortunate movement led to?” Or, on occasion, delightfully confirming the axiom that divorces are indeed made in heaven: “I am not in favour of long engagements. They give people an opportunity of finding out each other’s characters before marriage. Which I think is never advisable. But perhaps the most relevant of her pearls is that: “The whole theory of modern education is radically unsound. Fortunately, in England at any rate, education produces no effect whatsoever.”

The director, Lata Nobes, feels that “it can be a distraction to focus on the 19th century setting which removes the play from the relatable, and detracts from Wilde’s masterful writing which pokes fun at ideas of social conformity and the so called intellectual”; both extremely relevant for a performance in Oxford. She continues, that the gender blind casting has led to an absolutely dazzlingmale Lady Bracknell (Iarla David Manny) and two female butlers (Alex Barasch and Ellen Gibson). As Nobes says, “highly appropriate for the week following St Hilda’s Gender Equality festival, adding a new dimension to a play written by one of the most famous LGBTQ writers.”

Comedy with Cucumber Sandwiches (a.k.a The Importance of being Earnest) will be taking place on the 7th 8th and 9th of March, 7:30pm, on the stage Jacqueline du Pré Music Building.

#KanyeinOxford: Live Blog

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16:18 Despite the fact Kanye left 20 minutes ago, Kanye fever has yet to abate. Here’s the best we’ve seen before we sign out. Thanks for joining us on this emotional journey  

16:09 Not everyone has reacted as positively as Oxford students

16:07 Confusion still reigns that Oxford University invited Kanye as a guest lecturer  

16:00 Now for gossip from the talk 

15:53 And with that Kanye has left the building 

15:52 He makes a good point

15:51 Kanye on Kim’s cosmetics line

15:50 Well thank God for that

15:45 And hip hop rivalry

15:42 Kanye gives his thoughts on capitalism  

15:40 Let’s get betting 

15:36 Kanye attempts to be a philosophy lecturer 

15:33 We can’t quite believe it either  

15:28 And his thoughts on UK politics

15:25 And the Matrix.. 

15:22 Fine art is a topic of conversation apparently 

15:17 Rumours abound about what Kanye will talk about. Perhaps his tweets can offer some inspiration 

15:16 Reports say Kanye is in the building 

15:12 Still no word on Kanye. Oxford students wax lyrical on the event

 15:08 And from inside..

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15:05 Official photographs of the queue outside the talk

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15:03 The Oxford Musuem of Natural History has allegedly been closed to the public for the talk 

15:01 Updates from inside the museum, despite the no phone rule

15:00 Still no sign of Kanye

14:55 Desperation mounts with five mins to go

14:49 Louis Trup is one of the lucky ones 

14:46 1,800 students balloted for tickets by 12.30am with varying success

 14:43 Oxford students lament that their degrees don’t include Kanye West modules

14:38 Jealousy both in and out of Oxford of ticketholders 

14:33 The rapper is in high demand

14:30 With half an hour to go, the talk has drawn the attention of the national media, with coverage from the The Evening Standard and BBC Oxford

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14:29 Read about the dramatic announcement of the talk last night here

 

Cherwell brings you the latest news throughout today’s much anticipated talk. 

If you want to have your say, tweet us @Cherwell_Online or use the hashtag #kanyeinoxford and we’ll publish the best of the bunch on here.

 

Oxford students swap library for LFW

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This week, London, snatching the torch from New York in the marathon that is Fashion Month, opened its doors to Fashion Week and welcomed into its warm faux-fur embrace over 250 designers and countless fashion insiders, including a number of Oxford students. Want to know what they were up to? Thought so. Cherwell caught up with Katie and Romain between showrooms and shows to find out why they were there and what they had seen. 

Name: Katie Pangonis

Fashion Week Credentials: Founder and Editor of Escapade, an inter-university fashion, travel, and lifestyle magazine based in Oxford.

Pass Type: Designer showrooms, including rooms dedicated to jewellery, shoes, bags, and accessories. The pass also gets you into events in the evenings such as new label launches and parties.

What I’ve been escaping the library for: This is the second time I’ve been to London Fashion Week as Editor of Escapade. This time I took our Deputy Editor, a couple of our contributers and our canine intern Alfred Billington. LFW is a great opportunity for us to get an insight into next season’s styles and trends so that we can start shaping the coming issue in terms of shoots and themes. Getting to see everything in advance is simply priceless, and pretty exciting. It also allows us to make contacts directly with designers. For example, last year we met Only Child London jewellery designer Kelly Jackson there, whom we then interviewed in our first issue.

Favourite Collections: Georgia Harding, Paper London, Ottoline, Eudon Choi, and Only Child. 

Name: Romain Reglade

Fashion Week Credentials: Freelance photographer for Grazia Italia, and Marie Claire and Vogue in Latin America.

Pass Type: Backstage, at a series of shows including Burberry Prorsum, Erdem, Daks, Paul Smith, Issa, and Topshop Unique.

What I’ve been escaping the library for: I’ve been running between shows – in the rain! – taking photos of life backstage. This generally includes taking beauty shots after the makeup has been done; capturing the line-up, which is really cool, because it’s the first view of all the looks together, complete with outfit, hair and makeup; and then just random photos of the models backstage – they’re usually taking photos themselves, or reading and studying, like I should be! 

Favourite things I’ve seen this week:The Topshop Unique showspace at Tate Britain, the makeup at Gareth Pugh, and the Hunter set – complete with waterfalls!

AW15 trends:

Faux Fur: Seen at Gareth Pugh, Ashish, Burberry Prorsum, Erdem, Topshop Unique, Matthew Williamson, Roksanda… need we go on? This trend is going nowhere for AW15.

Eighties: SS15 is all about the 70s (check outour70s-inspiredflareshootthisweek), but next season is bringing the 80s back in a rare moment of lineality for fashion. So put down that tan shearling and reach for something brighter. The more garish and the bigger the shoulder pads the better, à la J. W. Anderson, Roksanda and Vivienne Westwood Red Label.

Glam Punk: As a sub-section of the 80s trend, and as described by Jakk Hayes below. See Sibling and Paul Smith if you need more visuals.

Brights: In keeping with the 80s trend, AW15 is a far brighter prospect than the season usually is. Cobalt blue and bright orange are two to reach for in particular, as at David Koma.

Fashion Matters

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With headlines screaming ‘20 celebrities with or without makeup!’, BuzzFeed is a store of our worst celebrity culture tropes. Yes, we’ve made progress: the campaign against airbrushing – perpetuating unrealistic and dangerous aspirations for self-image – has grown from a minority voice to a popular ethic.

Indeed, the most recent chapter of the Beyoncé-epic saw the online community defending her right to acne after pre-air-brushed images from the L’Oreal campaign were leaked. “Beyoncé has skin. Did you think otherwise?” – ran one comment. “She still looks absolutely beautiful”. It is heartening to see that ‘imperfections’ (and I use that word begrudgingly – the conflation of ‘perfection’ with superficial qualities is itself problematic) don’t threaten to dethrone the Queen of Pop. The Queen is human. Shouldn’t we welcome this development in celebrity culture? Perhaps so.

However, there is a really discomfiting strand in this new obsession with the celebrity au naturelle. In my view, Beyoncé supporters are somewhat in denial – the Beyoncé brand is safe whilst her ‘bad skin’ remains just a ‘bad skin day’. The real ‘natural beauty’ that captivates Bey’s fans is inextricably bound up with an airbrushed aesthetic. You might remember the hit YouTube documentary Year of 4 in which we followed round the ‘natural’, everyday Bey on her hectic schedule. This was just about as ‘candid’ as an Instagram selfie. I agree that Beyoncé is a strong female role model – most agree that her ‘natural’ beauty lies in her on-stage energy, her theatricality, and her drive – but let’s not pretend that the face on the cover of the new Flawless album correlates in anyway with the acne scars of leaked photographs. That’s not actually what people – at least collectively in the media machine – want from their Queen. When Uma Thurman walked out onto the red carpet recently with no mascara – headlines spun. ‘What has Uma Thurman done to her face?’ It was as if the media were saying, “Well she could have made a bit more effort…”

Natural beauty is the new black, but how ‘natural’ is it? It’s being fetishised by the media. ‘15 ways to be more naturally beautiful’ aÌ€ la BuzzFeed. Serums, diets, pills – ‘natural beauty’ is being commodified by the beauty market. More than ever, ‘natural beauty’ is becoming something as unobtainable as the cover girl body. The Beyoncé story is one such example. And, as the case of Uma Thurman shows – ‘fresh faced’ is apparently only okay for the young, whose naked features hardly deviate from the ‘ideal’ at all.

We’re left scratching our heads wondering why our own ‘natural beauty’ isn’t quite so ‘beautiful’, even when we’re young. Cue Scarlett Johansson: ‘See Scarlett Johansson’s Fresh-Face Look!’ reads The Daily Mail. Johansson is being celebrated for wearing no makeup at the Oscars practice. But this is nothing more than one catalogue look, manicured by a team of stylists. We’re losing touch with what’s really natural and our aspirations for self-image only continue to inflate #instagram #nomakeup

The New Romantic Man

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On February 12th, we lost Steve Strange, the lead singer of 80s band Visage and the widely acclaimed leader of the New Romantic movement, a cultural phenomenon spanning not only music but also (perhaps even to a greater extent) fashion, favouring decadence, flamboyance, and androgyny. In reaction to punk, New Romanticism was a celebration of excess, where men wore more makeup than women and where one could never be overdressed. As noted in the V&A’s 2013 summer exhibition From Club to Catwalk, this trend began in London nightclubs such as Strange’s own The Blitz before spreading out into the catwalks, influencing designers such as Zandra Rhodes and Vivienne Westwood.

The New Romantic period pushed Westwood in particular away from the jagged edges of punk into a new era defined by softer silhouettes and exuberance. Perhaps her most famous collection to date, AW81’s Pirates represents a turning point in her work, and also the point at which New Romanticism really took off as a key direction in mainstream fashion, something no longer confined to underground London clubs. It brought with it a tide of floppy bow collars, thick eye makeup, and a penchant for glamour. This has not gone away with time. Much club fashion is still heavily indebted to the New Romantics’ legacy, such as the gender-twisting costumes seen at Bethnal Green’s monthly Sink The Pink, and the wild parties held by ‘Club Kids’ such as Michael Alig and Amanda Lepore at The Limelight in early 1990s New York.

New Romanticism has also been forever present in womenswear: however, in an age less concerned with rigidly masculine codes of dress, it is now beginning to appear in mainstream menswear shows, as in the decadence seen in Gucci’s latest shows – at which bows were ubiquitous and lace shirts were layered under jumpers – or in Paul Smith’s long fur coats for AW15. Dandy-esque or foppish, the trend is to- wards an androgynously glamorous style, encompassing layering and rejecting colour blocking: think Hedi Slimane’s sometimes difficult to distinguish men’s and women’s collections for Saint Laurent Paris. The return of John Galliano, long known for his flamboyant approach to fashion, will no doubt provide a boost in popularity to this particular trend. Come January 2016, the New Romantics will be back and all out glamour will be the order of the day – regardless of gender. 

Oxford Fashion Week: Insider glimpse

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With Oxford Fashion Week starting Monday – and with Anna Wintour at the Union Tuesday – March is getting off to a stylish start indeed. 

After being founded in 2009, Oxford Fashion Week has grown to become an established part of the fashion week circuit. In the run up to the week, I spoke to Jemima Myers, a student currently studying fashion construction & retail. As a blogger and member of the OFW editorial team, I’m keen to find out what the week has in store.

But before doing so, I want to unpick her love of blogging. Asked why blogging has taken off so much, her passion becomes clear. Despite the fact it thrives off social media and technology, she sees blogging as a way to get back to basics, ‘an example of how written communication still thrives in an era where it is very easy to become enamoured with more instant forms of entertainment – television, films, games etc.’. Blogging is, according to her, something which ‘keeps our generation reading, which is essential for those who perhaps don’t find it easy to sit down with a book’. After hearing this, it’s hardly surprising that she has applied this love to become one of the bloggers for this season’s Oxford Fashion Week.

Now in its seventh year, OFW looks set to be bigger and better than ever, with new technology revolutionising the way we think about clothing. The headlining Genesis show aims to draw upon such creative innovation.  

Prior to becoming involved, Jemima was already interested in the links between structure, technology and fashion, incorporating these interests into her college projects. Asked if technology has a place in fashion, she stresses that technology has never been so important in an age where every person owns a smartphone, laptop and/or tablet. Demonstrating her genuine passion for the fashion industry, she quotes Coco Chanel: “fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening” and what is happening right now is an ongoing technological revolution.

Hoping to find out some juicy gossip surrounding the event, I move on to ask her what it’s like working with the models. Cat fights? Diva tantrums? Complete and utter chaos? Alas, for it seems not. Apparently they are a ‘friendly and co-operative bunch’ who she is excited to work with in the upcoming days. Given the pre-conceptions of fashion models as being entirely self-orientated (America’s next top model anyone?) this was refreshing indeed.

Moving onto safer ground, we talk about the designers themselves.  Jemima is most excited by Lavinia Cadar, although admits she is slightly biased towards her since she is one of the designers in the Genesis line-up. Cadar uses modern technology such as 3D printing and laser cutting to form her garments, resulting in some incredible structured pieces. She, alongside the designers for all the shows, are sourced especially for the week and in previous years designers have even flown into Oxford in order to take part.

Clearly, this is no longer the age of the plain white T-shirt. Chatting to Jemina has made me even more excited by the way fashion is heading and Oxford Fashion Week looks to be an exciting glimpse into that.

The shows kick off with the Cosmopolitan Show and Lingerie Show on Thursday 5th March, followed by the Couture Show and Genesis Show on Friday 6th March. For tickets to these events or any other events surrounding Oxford Fashion Week, visit http://www.oxfordfashionweek.com/tickets.html