Friday 27th June 2025
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3rd Week in Fashion

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‘Coming Soon To a Woman Near You’

The Most Newsworthy in Fashion and Trends

Fairytale Fashion – in honour of the new Disney film, Maleficent, milliner Alexandra Harper has made a collection of hats in collaboration with the Walt Disney Company. She says, “Maleficent is a true villian in every sense – has fantastic and dramatic style which speaks to the devilish side in all of us.” The Alexandra Harper Millinery for Disney Maleficent collection will be available exclusively from www.alexandraharpermillinery.com from 9 May 2014.

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Supernova Vodianova – Model extraordinaire Natalia Vodianova welcomed her fourth child, Maxim, last Friday. It is her first baby with current boyfriend, the CEO of shoe company Berluti. Vodianova is already the mother to three children: sons Lucas, 12, Viktor, 6, and daughter Neva, 8, and will be back on the runway soon.

Missoni Day – San Francisco has offically declared May 7 as Missoni Day. Margherita Missoni and her mother, Angela, have both been honoured with a Doctor of Humane Letters degree from the Academy of Art University for their work in the fashion industry. 

Sustainable Fashion – At the Rainforest Alliance Gala, Gisele Bundchen hit the green carpet in a hemp gown: this adds to the long list of environmental projects the model works on, such as Ipanema and Sejaa, both of which raise funds for diminishing rainforests. Meanwhile, Claire Danes hit the Bottletop event in New York, where she modelled the award winning GCC brand’s sustainable bag collection. The brand’s founder, Narciso Rodriguez, works with the aim of creating ethical fashion choices.

Rocha Retires – Venerable fashion designer John Rocha annouced his retirement from London Fashion Week. Having been featured on LFW catwalks for 29 years, his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, debuting last February, has been announced as his last. 

Beauty Corner: Hair that’s good enough to eat!

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It’s getting ridiculous. Seriously. The number of hair brands out there. Pantene Pro-V, TREsemme, John Frieda, Herbal Essences, Aussie, V05….you get the idea. Choosing which shampoo to buy is no longer a task that’s, well, Nice’ n Easy, is it? So how about a boycott? Last month, I spoke about going make-up free, now, here I am again this time proclaiming that we should chuck out our hair-products too. Well, not exactly. 3am essay crises haven’t gone to my head just yet. Rather, to experiment and try making your own shampoos and conditioners, using all things bright and beautifully natural.

Yep, that’s right. We all know about make-shift face creams (banana and honey anyone – that’s if you don’t eat the mix first) but what about Do-it-Yourself hair products? I’m always a fan of finding ways to make natural treatments (not least because it’s cheaper!), and there are some seriously great ‘recipes’ out there. Take Egg Shampoo, for example. You don’t need to be a genius to guess the main ingredient of this wonder. Yep, eggs are known to be natural shine-boosters, making hair soft as well as wondrously shiny. Simply crack a few eggs into a bowl (separating out the egg whites), wet your hair and leave this mixture in for around five to seven minutes.

But if eggs aren’t your thing (and I get this is probably true for quite a few people) you needn’t worry, for there are a number of more appetising ingredients to choose from. Try stirring some honey, coconut milk and a little almond oil together, apply from the roots of the hair to the ends and then washing out. The result? A top-notch conditioner that waves bye bye to frizz. If you’re pressed for time, simply squeeze some lemon into hands to rub onto hair for an instant shine fix.

Indeed, these haircare recipes include many other nourishing ingredients such as yogurt, jojoba oil, avocado and fennel-seed extract, all said to help keep hair looking healthy. But what struck me most, particularly for the hair masques, was just how much fun they are to make! (Alternatively, they can be a great way to vent your stress – there’s nothing quite like furiously mashing up a banana, I can assure you).

The question is, if everyone started going au naturel, would commercial hair companies become a thing of the past? It seems not, for there are already a number of brands out there that are basing themselves on using natural, often edible, ingredients. Take Ogario London, for example, which uses avocado, sage, nettle and olive oil in its Restore and Shine hair-masque.

However, why go to the hassle of buying when you can make it yourself? Far less expensive and a whole load more fun. Just make sure you do remember to wash out that egg before leaving…

Open letter calls for Union President to resign

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Oxford students have written an open letter calling for the Oxford Union President, Ben Sullivan, to resign. The letter appeared on the website of the New Statesman, but was subsequently taken down for legal reasons.

The letter follows accusations of rape and attempted rape against Ben Sullivan. Sullivan was taken in for questioning by Police on Wednesday 7th May. He was later released on bail and without charge on the same day.

Students who have signed the letter include OUSU Vice-president for Women Sarah Pine, former OULC co-chair Helena Dollimore, and President-elect of OUSU Louis Trup , as well as OUSU Vice-president elect Anna Bradshaw and OUSU Women’s campaign officer Lucy Delaney.

Other signatories of the letter include journalist Laurie Penny and feminist activist Caroline Criado-Perez.

According to the New StatesmanPine and Dollimore have also contacted around 30 upcoming speakers at the Union, calling for them to reconsider attending.

A preamble to the letter states that it is “open to all members of the Oxford community” who wish to sign it.

Reference is made, in the letter, to the attempt by Sullivan to use Union funds to help pay his legal fees. An extraordinary meeting of the Union’s Standing Committee was subsequently held to withdraw the motion.

The letter concludes by saying that Sullivan should not remain in office.

History and politics student Helena Dollimore, who signed and helped write the letter, commented, “We decided to organise the open letter and speaker boycott because we believe the current situation is untenable.”

Oxford Union President Ben Sullivan commented, “ I have at no point ‘misused Union funds’. I was advised by our Trustees to contact lawyers because they believed an article about me, which contained a number of claims, was damaging to the reputation of the Union.

“These claims were not primarily related to membership of the ‘Banter Squadron’ (which is clearly not a real drinking society) and involved other claims including the claim that I somehow opposed the Union’s harassment policy which I helped to write. I have since agreed to pay the fees myself despite the fact that these funds were passed through the correct channels and that our Trustees still do not believe I should have to pay.

“At this point I am unable to comment on what is an on-going police investigation. However, as I said last week in the Chamber, I have the utmost faith in the English legal system and know that justice will be served.”

Live Review: Wolf Alice – O2 Academy

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When you look up at Wolf Alice, there are a few things that come to mind. a) these guys are pretty fucking cool, and b) they are a bit too cool, as in I’m not sure I’d quite make the cut in their hot list. They’re the latest female fronted band to win the hearts and minds of Camdenites and NME readers (like myself) with their grungy noise rock and clear cut edgy vocals.

Their gig upstairs in the O2 Academy Oxford is loud, energetic and compelling, but their limited repertoire means they can only play for about 40 minutes before running out of material. It’s just as well though; they’re on the cusp of becoming dull at around the 25 minute mark given the samey nature of their guitar thrashing tracks. Admittedly it’s entertaining, but there’s only so much attitude wailing one can take on a Tuesday night.

But Wolf Alice are also at the hands of some pretty shitty audience members. When frontwoman Ellie Rowsell finally seems purposefully and successfully in her element, she’s moved away from the hard stuff to the melancholic tones of ‘Blush’, effortlessly mashed and leading into a cover of ‘Wicked Game’ by Chris Isaak. It’s hypnotically beautiful, a crystal oasis in the barrage of noise and moshing from the rest of the gig. Unfortunately it’s not enough to discourage some twats from loudly declaring their love for Rowsell from the audience pit, and repeatedly feeling the need to shout the affirmative “YES!” (for whatever reason.)

But aside from some of the audience, there’s still something missing from the band’s performance. They need more cohesion, to be more mentally in tune with each other, rather than just sonically. I see four musicians in different head spaces, not collaborators. When drummer Joel Amey is slamming his instrument, the others look bored. But this is only the beginning of the career for the band, so there’s plenty of scope to see this tour as an opportunity to find their zen. Oh, and more from wherever ‘Blush’ came from please. 

Read our interview with Wolf Alice in this week’s Cherwell, out May 23rd.

Loading the Canon: John Lennon

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John Lennon gets his fair share of attention and there are plenty of fanatical Beatles fans who will forcibly advance the view that his lyrics are worthy of inclusion into the literary canon. However, it is his often neglected In His Own Write and A Spaniard In The Works that are most deserving of greater recognition.

Published in 1964 and 1965 respectively these books are collections of poems and stories, all of which feature Lewis Carroll-esque imagery and surreal humour. More than the Beatles’ lyrics, which Lennon tossed off during, these years these works are at once hilarious, witty and incisive, while offering a unique glimpse into the author’s personality. The books were a great commercial success, eagerly bought and revered by Beatlemaniacs few of whom, it would seem, appreciated the uniqueness of the humour and the accomplishment of the prose and poetry.

As a figure of immense importance to popular culture, and enduring relevance, there is a temptation to idolise Lennon to the extent that his personality is obscured and his work neglected in a strange recognition of his genius. These works do not suffer from this problematic tendency. Perversely, that they have been so ignored means that they offer the greatest insight into this hugely influential character.

Lennon’s impressive faculty for language was evident in his song lyrics but reaches its full expression in these books, which are a space without three minute limits. His wit shines through in hilarious stories, full of wordplay and deceivingly childish jokes. References to the ‘Nasties’ (Nazis) are indicative of this, along with quotable aphorisms, one of which was used as the title of a Beatles song, album and film, “a hard day’s night”.

These works foreshadow Lennon’s later development as a writer as, in the late 1960s and ‘70s, when his lyrics began to take on a deeper, more complex and more playful side. Those looking to gain an understanding of him should stop attempting to decipher obscure lyrics and instead direct their attention to these works.

Review: Last Enchantments

I am often asked what it is actually like studying at Oxford. I am sure it is a question we have all been asked and after the awkward cough and shuffle that accompanies any admission of our Alma Mater, my next step is always a brief exposition of the college system (that is both incomplete and inaccurate), a poor joke about drunkenly stumbling on cobbles before feebly trailing out with the old lie, “It’s just like any other university really…”

It is rare, then, to find fiction that encapsulates the contemporary Oxford experience – Brideshead Revisited may still be a handbook for students of Christ Church and Magdalen, but I am willing to bet it is about as far from most of our lives as Trainspotting. The Last Enchantments manages to fill this gap for modern Oxford, and do it spectacularly, grippingly, and with heart-wrenching pathos. There are gems of Ox- ford life within Charles Finch’s first foray into non-crime fiction: the frequent trips to Purple Turtle, the permanent backdrop of intellectual struggle and a cameo for Hassan’s kebab van, which struck me with particular fondness.

Beyond the excitement that comes from reading about places that also form the backdrop to one’s own life, Finch captures themes that should resonate with Oxford students, and then reflects on them with a maturity, eloquence            and sparkling humour that is both uncommon and addictive. In particular, the daily littleness of life amongst the dreaming spires, the feeling of unreality that occurs both when reflecting on home life from Oxford and thinking of Oxford from home, and the frequent meaningless romances that emerge from college life are expounded in light, beautiful prose, profound and yet not pretentious.

But more than being about Oxford, The Last Enchantments is a novel about youth and its loss, love and life. The protagonist, Will Baker (whom one suspects is an image of Mr Finch himself) is an American graduate student, standing on the threshold of adulthood and placed before decisions that will profoundly shape his life. The choices are ones that are familiar and yet intensely moving: his long term and dependable partner Alison, left at home in the States, is placed in contrast to his British love, the enigmatic Sophie; the lucrative career in the City, the passion and excitement of the campaign trail and the ethereal promise of an academic grant. All pull Baker in different directions that cross oceans. Most of all, the novel presents the foreboding sense that – in one’s early 20s – one’s decisions begin to have serious and long term ramifications.

Oxford is the perfect setting for this regretful abandonment of youth. One line in particular resonates, when the University is given its epitaph: “so much of being at Oxford is the stretch of days behind and before you, the feeling of shelter inside that great mammoth body, the security of it”. The sense of contemplative melancholy is at the end overpoweringly sad, and a fitting end to a novel that not only perfectly encapsulates being a student of Ox- ford, but also beautifully expresses the feeling of no longer being young.

 

Interview: Vladimir Sharov

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Vladimir Sharov, author of Before and During, tells me “when I was around twenty- five or twenty-six, I ran out of poems, “For me, it was a great catastrophe.” His fiction is filled with ‘great catastrophes’ of this kind, but also with strange magic. In Before and During, the first of his novels to be translated into English, history bubbles up improbably and seemingly without any boundaries.

Sharov, born 1952 in the former USSR, is composed, serene even. He has a prophet’s beard and when he speaks about his vision of the world it is hard not to think of Tolstoy. I interviewed him sitting in his room at St Antony’s College as we drink instant coffee out of little white cups and speak through an interpreter. While we were waiting for the interpreter to arrive, he showed me a book by his father, Alexander Sharov, who was also a writer. It is a book of children’s fairy tales, printed in bold letters and exquisitely illustrated. I squint at the first line and decipher, “Far, far away…”

“In my childhood, I was omnivorous”, explains Sharov. He sits sideways, legs crossed, speaking slowly at first, then faster; a torrent of words. “I read all the fairy tales I could get my hands on and I think, in many ways, it did shape me as a writer”. I ask him how his training as a historian (Sharov has a PhD in Russian history) intersects with his historical fiction and he holds up his hands in swift protest, “I just want to make a small amend. Indeed, I am a historian… but I have never written any historical fiction”.

Born to a science fiction writer in Soviet Russia, Sharov grew up listening to his father’s friends discussing literature and politics and imbibed their understanding of the world on Sharov. He started writing early in life, but under the strict censorship of the Soviet Union, he never thought about publishing them. If history had gone differently, his writing might never have seen the light of day and Sharov is painfully aware of this.

Before and During was originally published in 1993 in the journal Novy Mir, which famously also published Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn’s A Day in the Life of Ivan Denissovich. The book was instantly controversial, with several of the editors later coming out and announcing they had been against its release.

“What was most important for me to explore in this novel,” Sharov explains, “is that, basically, a whole layer of life was destroyed in Russia. People who were afraid of impending doom and being arrested, burned their diaries, burned their personal documents, being afraid of having implications found in them. And even to their children, they were telling imaginary stories about their lives, because they were afraid their children would be affected. So perhaps what is most important in this novel, Before and During, is an attempt to resurrect this inner life, this inner psychic novel, and to present it to the leader. Because we cannot resurrect the people, they are gone, they are killed, but we can try and recreate the life they lived and their inner life as well.”

In the opening pages of the novel, one of the characters plays with free association, recalling how the “Bolshevik cake factory” across the street made him associate Bolsheviks with sweets for years, a fantastic parody of the way the Soviets used words, imbuing them with their own significance. Unsurprisingly, Sharov thinks words are imprecise “I think that without words, our view of the world is much more complex than with them. And the more complex is this vision of the world, the more accurate, the more careful a human being is. They’re just trying not to harm other people’s lives, not to do something to destroy. Revolutions and dictators are great simplifiers of life. Somehow, simplification of our understanding of the world and violence always stand close to each other. They go hand in hand.”

Breathtaking as Before and During is in England in 2014, imagine the impact it must have had in Russia in 1993. Sharov has worked all the pain, complexity and forgetfulness of Russia’s history into a dark and erudite fairy tale, that confronts the destruction of the Soviet era from a largely introspective point of view. At the launch of Before and During, Oliver Ready declared that many of Sharov’s novels “suggest that the wish to return to childhood is a fatal Russian trait, a wish to simplify things and not face complex questions”.

Sharov though does not shy away from such questions. When I ask him whom he would choose to meet from the past, he clears his throat: “I think probably… this would be my mother and my father”.

How We Style: Lace

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Trend: Lace

Model: Alice McAndrew

Stylist and Photographer: Katie Pangonis

Lace is a tricky texture to style. Especially when it’s white. It’s all too easy to stray into a look reminiscent of your five year old self on the way to a garden party. However it’s a great fabric to add to an outfit if you do it the right way. We find it’s great as a top with light blue jeans and always a lick of vivid red lipstick and nail colour to balance out the innocence factor. Here we’ve styled it in turn with utilitarian denim shorts to modernise and toughen the look, a pretty blue skirt for a sweeter take on lace and finally red pumps to bring out the lipstick and nails and emphasise the colour contrast. You needn’t go for red, although we’d advise sticking to strong primary colours to maximise impact. Lace is a must have trend for this season, with pretty much every High Street retailer in Oxford from Topshop to M&S carrying pieces; a truly accessible and workable trend.

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Alice wears a Club Monaco silk and lace top, with vintage denim shorts, turquoise earrings and Geox sandals. The laser-cut details on the sandals complement the lace paneling on the top and the coarse texture of the denim offsets this nicely.

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Alice wears a Jack Wills lace t-shirt with a pastel skirt by Harris Wharf, with quartz and silver earrings and white Chloé sandals.

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Alice wears a Dolce & Gabbanna white lace mini dress. The purity of the dress is balanced by the short length. A great way to brighten up simple white pieces like this is with a flash of colour, and here this is acheived with the vivid red ballet flats which are matched to the lip and nail colour.  The leather shoulder bag has just enough of a red tint to tie in with the accessories without over-doing the amount of colour.

Resignation of Union Librarian-Elect suspended by SAM

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The Librarian-Elect of the Oxford Union has narrowly avoided automatically resigning her position. 

Mehrunissa Sajjad, an English and History finalist, has not attended a Library Committee meeting since the beginning of Trinity Term and has apparently failed to give “good reason” for her absence. This means that she has not attended three successive Library meetings, which under the Union rules leads to a presumed resignation. 

Speaking during the Standing Committee meeting, Returning Officer Joshua Atkinson pointed out that “under Rule 23) c) ii) 2), Mehrunissa had automatically resigned from her role as Librarian-Elect, as no member of the Committee is allowed to have three absences from meetings without extraordinary circumstances being put forward as excuses”. 

Rule 23(c)(ii)(2) states that “Any member of any Committee… having missed three ordinary meetings of that Committee without good reason in the same term shall be deemed to have submitted his resignation from that Committee”. As a result, Sajjad appears to have automatically resigned her position as Librarian-Elect, losing her position on Standing Committee as well.

The Returning Officer also pointed out that, “This follows a week after I mentioned in both Consultative Committee and Standing Committee that certain members if the committees should have disciplinary action brought against them for dereliction of duty”. 

Despite this, the Librarian-Elect has yet to officially resign due to a Special Adjournment Motion posted on the Union notice board shortly after the end of the Standing Committee meeting. The Motion suspends the Library Committee’s decision to recognise Sajjad’s resignation, asking for the matter to be debated in front of the House on at the weekly Thursday debate. 

The motion, signed by many high-profile Union members, says “We would like to move a Special Adjournment Motion to remove the decision of the Library Committee to pass the absence of Librarian-Elect the week prior as not extraordinary”. 

The motion was proposed by President-Elect, Mayank Banerjee who commented “I was deeply upset to hear of Mehrunissa’s absences not being passed as extraordinary in previous meetings of Library committee. She has had finals this term and the Union rules clearly make allowances for those with public examinations to miss certain meetings. From my understanding, she had already informed the Librarian that she would not be able to attend but due to the unexpected changes in the position of Librarian these absences were never ratified by the relevant committee. 

“I would hate for Mehrunissa to be forced to abandon her position in the Union for simply missing three meeting during her finals term and as such, I hope the SAM on Thursday passes and the automatic resignation is fully reversed. I look forward to working with her in Michaelmas, when I am sure she will do the job of Librarian to the best of her abilities, particularly when she no longer has a degree to balance with her Union commitments.”

Speaking to Cherwell, President Ben Sullivan, said, “I can confirm that today in Standing Committee the Returning Officer pointed out that Mehrunissa had missed three meetings of Library Committee and not had her absences from these meetings passed as extraordinary. I understand that Mehrunissa did provide a reason for missing these meetings but because these absences were not voted on by the Committee the Rules consider them to be de facto not extraordinary. Three such absences constitute automatic resignation. However, because a Special Adjournment Motion was delivered soon after the meeting of Library Committee today, their decision to not explicitly ratify her absences is delayed until the Motion is discussed by the House. The SAM will be debated this Thursday.” 

Librarian-Elect Mehrunissa Sajjad, who may still be made to resign her position, told Cherwell, “In the past few weeks I have been unable to attend Library Committee as much as I would like due to a number of mock exams and illness. Unfortunately, although I did send my apologies in advance the Committee did not make any formal decision on the status of these absences. According to a technicality in the Rules, these absences must be considered extraordinary. Today a Special Adjournment Motion was delivered to the President to challenge Library Committee’s decision not to pass my recent absence as extraordinary, and I look forward to explaining the situation to the House this Thursday.” 

When later asked on the issue of the Special Adjournment Motion, the Returning Officer briefly stated, “Union members could SAM the Committee’s decision” but that, as he had stated already in standing, “I presented this resignation as I thought it was right by the Rules and thus I will defend that position”

The House will debate the motion this Thursday. 

The Campaign: Fashion Relief

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Fashion Relief, like many great Oxford innovations, was borne of an essay crisis. Sarah Fan and I, now two of the charity’s trustees, had just been involved with organizing the Northern Lights Fashion Show, which had seen great success.The thought that occurred to us was, what if student fashion was used for charity on a grand scale, even on a national scale? Thus the idea for Fashion Relief was born.

The Fashion Relief Committee recognizes that fashion as it currently stands is a very flawed industry. Fashion as a lifestyle is seen as vapid and meaningless, while the fashion industry is a colossal money-making machine plagued by a devotion to promoting extremes of unhealthy body size and image, as well as extortion of cheap labour. The link between the inherently flawed culture of fashion and charity is difficult for many to comprehend.

But student fashion can be a powerful force for good. The St Andrews Charity Fashion Show raised £28,000 this year alone. Fashion Relief, despite being a month-old charity, has representatives in around 10 universities across the UK, all at the ready to launch their own unique charity fashion shows on the same night in November. These fashion shows will follow the example set by Comic Relief and Sport Relief in trying to bring thousands of students together on one night for the same cause, and under the same banner.

Not only do we believe that this raft of fashion shows will become a source of fundraising for charities who desperately need the support, but we also believe that Fashion Relief can become a platform to challenge the status quo of the fashion industry itself. Sizeism and the mental and physical health issues that go with it are serious issues within the current fashion community, which is why Fashion Relief will enforce a minimum BMI requirement for its models across the UK.

The poverty caused by Western clothing companies exploting cheap labour in the developing world is an issue that has been raised time and time again. Fashion Relief is looking into UK-based charities that are tackling this cause head-on, encouraging businesses to trade ethically, and exhorting customers to care about what they wear on their backs.

As a fledgling charity, of course we’ve encountered setbacks. But with a 30-strong committee in Oxford alone, and many enthusiastic advocates across the country, we believe that Fashion Relief can become a real force for good. Shifting fashion from something negative to something worthwhile is actually achievable if we put our minds to the task. Showing that students care, that students can put their organizational skills to good use, is vital for making this change.

In the coming months we face some daunting challenges. Our website is in the works and our team busy preparing a national strategy as well as finding leads in other universities. But Fashion Relief is gaining momentum, so watch this space.

To find out more and get the latest updates from Fashion Relief, like our page on Facebook.