Saturday 18th April 2026
Blog Page 1439

Review: Italian Fashion at the V&A

0

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG%%9410%%[/mm-hide-text]

Fashion is intertwined with and inseparable from the culture and the history of Italy. It mirrors the most turbulent times the country faced. But fashion also helped Italy to move past its difficulties, as it went on an exciting, innovative journey. The unique extravagance of Italian fashion drew the rest of the world in. Through “The Glamour of Italian Fashion” exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, you can watch the evolution of it from fascism until now and begin to comprehend its impact on the world.

The exhibition starts by recounting how the fascist government attempted to construct a sense of nationhood. The National Fashion Board regulated production and produced the “Tortonese”, displayed in an uninspiring blue at the start of the exhibition. This ladies’ suit consisted of a broad shouldered jacket and a pleated skirt. The waist is barely cinched and is a far cry from drama of Dolce and Gabbana alta moda couture. So, how did Italy make this transition?

Post-war, Italy was in disarray. Cities were thin and millions worked as farm laborers. Under the US Marshall Plan, factories were retooled and Italian fashion began to feed the hunger for glamour.

Giovanni Battista Giorgini is the man who truly represents the return to luxury.  On the 12th of February 1951, in Sala Bianca, he showcased the “First Italian High Fashion Show”. From that February onwards, Giovanni drew on the Italian renaissance and threw events lasting several days, entertaining international buyers with elaborate dinners and balls. Though later designers went on to compete with Giovanni, he pioneered the identity of Italian fashion.

There is a sharp contrast between the dresses displayed at the exhibition, those Giovanni showcased are displayed shortly after we see the Tortonese. It is a reflection of how fashion helped to transform Italy. The elegant tailoring, intricate embroidery and cascading waves of chiffon and lace is a world away from the stiff and square fascist suit. It set the tone of how, for the next 60 years, Italian designers would continue to make waves in fashion industry. It sets the backdrop for old Hollywood, well-dressed Presidents and decorated film star royalty.

The centrepiece of the exhibition has to be Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari “Emerald Suite”, the famous jewelry set given to her by Richard Burton.  It truly represents both the extravagance and the eminence of Italian fashion and resonates with you throughout the rest of the exhibition.

A real treat comes towards the end of the visit; a room full of more modern Italian haute couture! Whilst the silhouettes have changed and hem lines have become a bit more daring, the attention to detail remains the same. Each piece still tells its own fascinating story. But for how long can Italian designers continue to indulge their creativity with luxury? Since the political scandal in 2000, economic tensions and immigration issues have threatened stability. Textile production and its related industries are thinning and Italy’s premium fashion houses are continuously foreign owned. Andrea Missoni calls for greater government support so the fashion industry can continue to flourish, and benefit the country the way it did post World War II.

You will take away from this exhibition an appreciation for the sheer power of Italian taste. Plus, it gives you an excuse to look at really pretty dresses and pretend to be cultured!

The Glamour of Italian Fashion Exhibition spans the stylish country’s history from 1945 through to 2014.

The exhibition is open until 27th July 2014 and costs just £9.20 for students.
Great for: Anyone who loves window shopping!

The Problem with Paxman

0

There are various reasons for my dislike of Jeremy Paxman: the way he furrows his brow with self-importance; his pompous interjections; his tendency to mistake his own opinions for news. He is paid to hold public figures to account, however, and even if you object to him as a person, he has historically been very good at it.

His reputation as the British public’s bulldog has been built up over the past thirty years from his stronghold as presenter and part-time chief correspondent of BBC analysis programme Newsnight. From his 1997 interview with Michael Howard, where he asked the same question – “Did you threaten to overrule him?” – of the Conservative Home Secretary 14 separate times, to his scathing reception of EDL leader Tommy Robinson, Paxman is known for refusing to temper his visible dislike for individuals or disguise his disregard for authority.

But his unrelenting style of questioning, can only be said to be in the public interest if he is equally exacting towards all of his interviewees. In the past few weeks various criticisms of Paxman’s persona have emerged. The most strongly worded was printed by the Mail on Sunday, in an article which railed against Paxman’s ‘soft’ treatment of ‘Leftie’ Methodist preacher Paul Flowers, disgraced ex-chief of the Co-operative Bank. Flowers’ fall from grace was biblical: having been selected to direct the UK’s self-professed ‘ethical bank’, the minister made a series of tactical errors that would prove ruinous for the company. Around the same time, Flowers was filmed counting out twenties for cocaine in a drug dealer’s car and is alleged to have used rent boys.

His ineptitude is highlighted by a clip of Flowers before the Treasury Select committee, where he is asked the value of the Co-op Bank’s assets. Flowers’ guess is £44 billion out. “Yes, forgive me.” he replies pompously. It should be an easy one for bulldog Paxman, but Flowers is allowed to get away with it: ‘forgive me’ becomes the interview’s catchphrase, used as a conversational crutch to buy time.

‘Forgive me’ takes on a deeper meaning as Flowers paints the entire banking world as rife with corruption, underplaying his own culpability. When Paxman asks whether Flowers would compare himself to Lucifer, since he had so far to fall, Flowers replies, “And where do you find Lucifer in the Bible, Mr Paxman?” This display of wit and learning makes Paxman laugh, rather than doing his appointed job of demanding to know how a public figure could be guilty of such incompetence.

At one point, when Paxman seems about to launch into a trademark grilling, Flowers cites stress and a lack of training as reasons for his mistakes. He got the value of his bank’s assets wrong, he says, because he was “put off, a tad, by the aggression of some of the members of the committee.” This seems to subdue Paxman, who does not press Flowers on the gaping disparity between the teachings of his sermons and the reality of his actions and rather than being the aggressor fighting for the public interests he appears an apologist for financial fuck-ups.

The motivation The Mail’s attack on the interview is obvious: in the interview, Flowers called the Mail on Sunday ‘pseudo-fascist’ and said it was capable of making Putin seem like a ‘bleeding-heart liberal’. The Mail seeks to invalidate these criticisms by painting Paxman as the big bad leftie who softens the minute his adversary – also sympathetic to the Left – cries addiction (already a left-right battleground – see Peter Hitchens versus Russell Brand for more).  

As a rule, Paxman is exacting and often derisive with his interviewees. When Paxman makes exceptions to this rule, his motivations for doing so should be examined. The Mail alleges he is soft on the left-leaning. Alternatively, Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland has described how Paxman’s interview style becomes less forensic when he is presented with a public figure who was not elected by popular vote. He grills MPs with visible delight but let’s bankers and CEOs off more lightly.  

The Flowers interview reinforces both of these hypotheses, as does his 2010 interview with Christopher Hitchens. Many of the questions asked by Paxman in the interview are designed to flatter rather than probe: “You’re a contrarian – a polemicist. Do you have any sense of why you are like that?” Ironically and disappointing, for an interview between the two greatest British “polemicists” of the 20th century the interview itself lacks all polemic! Paxman doesn’t ask Hitchens about his patronising, misogynist views (in case you’re interested, Hitchens believes women aren’t funny, evolution having slowly suffocated the fairer sex of its capacity for wit. In Hitchens’ words, “For men, it is a tragedy that the two things they prize the most—women and humor—should be so antithetical”). He asks one softball question on his support for the invasion of Iraq, but never attempts to push him. The interview was one of the last given by Hitchens and is sadly a snapshot of two of the twentieth century’s journalistic heavyweights, united in self-congratulation.

Paxman is not a compassionate interviewer by nature. When he lets up, he may do so because of various reasons: perhaps it is due to his political persuasion, or because his interviewee has not been publicly elected, or because he sees something of himself in his interlocutor, or because he genuinely finds a comment funny, or a combination of all four. If Paxman were always ‘soft’ on left-leaning cultural figures, left-wing, un-elected Russell Brand would have had a far easier ride when he spoke about voter abstention in 2013. The ‘un-elected, left-wing’ rule holds true for Hitchens and Flowers, but not for Brand. Paxman’s rare indulgent gazes seem to be reserved for the handful of individuals whom he considers his equals; Paxman the bulldog rolls over when presented with public figures on the way out, highly-educated and established individuals whom he perceives as possessing a similar level of stature to himself. But whatever his reason, his interviews with Hitchens and Flowers render him less plausible as a disinterested arbiter of public discourse.

His strong media presence off-screen also contributes to this. His recent television series on World War One, for instance, gained him entry into the public bun fight of the moment over how best to commemorate the war’s centenary. His main adversary on the issue was Michael Gove, current Secretary for Education and prominent opponent of the view (propagated in his opinion, by ‘Blackadder and left-wing academia’) that leadership from 1914-18 was anything other than courageous or the war anything other than just. Paxman’s response to such disagreement was to brand Gove a “charlatan” guilty of trying to score “cheap political points”. Boris Johnson rushed to Gove’s defence in a Telegraph article, while subsequent talks and press statements allowed Paxman to enter into discussion on an issue which could be the basis for policy-making in future.

He is entitled to a public life separate from his career within the BBC – many other pundits have trodden the same path. However, that future appearances from Gove and Johnson on Newsnight could be skewed by their past disagreements with Paxman, just as Paxman’s interactions with George Galloway on the programme in 2005 transgressed into the personal and the downright unprofessional. A heated interview with Galloway was followed up by a video of Paxman which was broadcast into the Big Brother house, where Galloway had been filmed drinking milk out of a bowl on the floor wearing a leotard. Paxman’s video requested a “rematch, with or without the leotard”. Paxman’s public life outside the BBC is defensible only as far as it does not give him a personal agenda when interviewing on Newnight: the discussion of ‘rematches’ suggested Paxman was more concerned with his personal relationship with Galloway than the discussion of current events which sets a worrying precedent for interactions with Gove.

Paxman’s courting of celebrity and controversy coincides with a singularly unrepresentative and badly-chaired discussion on Muslim identity and leadership in Britain, which took place in March this year. The conclusion loudly extolled by Mehdi Hasan, Maajid Nawaz and Mo Ansar (with fairly sparse intervention from Paxman), was that no single voice could speak for all Muslims; this plurality needed to be represented as far as possible in public discourse. Pertinently, Myriam Francois-Cerrah, a prominent writer and journalist, was dropped from the discussion in favour of Ansar, leaving no female Muslim voice on the panel.  During the interview Hasan asked why there were no females on the panel, as that would broaden the range of viewpoints represented; Paxman gave no response, and Hasan was shouted over – again – by Nawaz.

Paxman does not produce Newsnight and does not dictate who appears on panels. However, he has been frequently critical of those who do produce the show. One example is when financial reports were replaced by weather reports as the parting shot from Newsnight in 2005, Paxman mocked them, supplementing the forecasts with irreverent asides. His quips were funny but set a precedent for picking fights with decisions made by the show’s producers in a personal capacity. Why, then, did he remain silent about his show’s failure to actually enact the breadth of perspectives each of its other participants agreed was so essential? Why speak up against weather reports but not in favour of women’s representation?

It is the intermittency of these moments that jars. In picking some fights, but not every fight, his inconsistency leaves room to call bias. His desire to reinforce his own personality and aggressively macho public image, moreover, can divert attention from the matter at hand. The debate on Islam was instrumental in exposing what happens when ego is privileged over representative debate: the discussion descended into ad hominem attacks and the dredging up of previous Twitter exchanges. Paxman has the same problem. In allowing his ego to leak over into other public spheres and a handful of his interviews, he falls prey to his own vanity and in doing so, he fails the public.

            

Review: The Vogue Festival 2014

0

So the Vogue festival is a pretty serious bit of fun for anyone interested in fashion. In the days following the festival, fashion blogs and magazines were filled with photos of the best dressed and comments on the illustrious speakers who made up panels to be interviewed on different aspects of the industry. This year speakers and interviewers included Naomi Campbell, Lucinda Chambers, Valentino, Alexandra Shulman, Proenza Schouler, Sarah Burton and Karlie Kloss.

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG%%9409%%[/mm-hide-text]

I attended an interview entitled ‘Personal Style and do you have it?’ with a panel made up of Vogue’s Creative Director Lucinda Chambers, Karl Lagerfeld’s muse Amanda Harlech and model and international style guru Alexa Chung. The interview opened with a simple question about what they were wearing, and the answers ranged from a tapestry jacket from Portobello market styled with a Celine skirt, to Chanel couture, to “awfully uncomfortable” Marc Jacobs heels. Three guesses who wore the Chanel.

The talk was lively and animated, as you’d expect from a discussion between three such interesting and diverse women, however it was the comments made by Lucinda Chambers that truly resonated. She wasn’t perhaps the wittiest or most entertaining speaker but she put forward the most considered answers which in return prompted responses from the other two women, whose contributions were mostly anecdotal. Furthermore the experiences Chambers related of her first days at Vogue were very encouraging. She described making all her outfits from scratch and very much feeling like she did not ‘fit in’ with her chic and Chanel clad colleagues. However it was she, not they, who rose to be Creative Director of the magazine, and it is her sense of style, not theirs, that imbues every page of this most hallowed publication. This perhaps can be seen as inspiration to us all not to play it safe, but to express ourselves through our clothes and not to be afraid to get things wrong or even to do the wrong things on purpose.

The fun of the Vogue festival is not centred solely around the talks and this is reflected in the fact that one could buy ‘foyer only’ tickets .There was a range of activities all appealing to a girlish desire to dress up. We arrived early (our talk was the very first) and so we faced very little queuing as we had our hair worked into catwalk styles and our nails painted with the Vogue logo. Also on offer were a Burberry make over and photo shoot and a ‘Vogue cover shoot’ which cost £10 but included a Chanel makeover and a glossy print out of your face emblazoned on the front of the magazine. While initially we thought it would be too mortifying to endure this process, we finally convinced each other on the grounds that we could give the photos to our mothers for Mothers’ Day, and snuck away secretly very pleased with ourselves. We did however spare ourselves the relative humiliation of strutting down the Harrods ‘Catwalk’ to be entered into a raffle for a £1000 voucher. The odds were against us and it would have been too great a blow to our self-respect.

What was equally interesting about this particularl festival was watching the attendees file in and out and take in their ‘personal style’. There are very few events for which people make such effort, not to look attractive or sexy, but eye catching, stylish and different. The outfits ranged from homemade waistcoats to trends straight from the catwalk. I personally had opted for safe and simple; black straight leg jeans, a cream silk blouse with pin-tuck detailing and a forest green jacket, with vintage shoes and a long necklace. However after Lucinda Chambers’ comments, I wished I’d gone in something more outlandish that wouldn’t have looked out of place on ‘stylebubble’. The friend who accompanied me, the eminently stylish Poppy Clifford from Wadham, opted for a prettier ensemble comprised of a pink leather skater skirt by ‘the Kooples’ and a matching pink cashmere cardigan with hoop earrings.

All in all, it isn’t a ‘ground breaking’ event, but it certainly was fun and a good day out. I would definitely recommend buying a ticket next summer, and my advice would be to choose your talk carefully, get there early, and bring a camera.

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG_ORIGINAL%%9408%%[/mm-hide-text] 
Above: My catwalk-inspired hairstyle

Review: Captain America: The Winter Soldier

0

★★★☆☆

Three Stars

As the latest superhero blockbuster pumped out by Marvel, one could be forgiven for dismissing Captain America: The Winter Soldier as effects-heavy, action-filled, character-lacking nonsense. It is pleasantly surprising then, to find a seemingly intelligent and, most importantly, relevant piece of cinema that is raised from ‘light’ to ‘fairly weighty’ entertainment by it’s overtly political premise, not to mention a few notable performances. Sadly, the film fails to fulfil its early potential, and its latter stages are as generic as they come.

The first Captain America film introduced Chris Evans (no, not that one) as the refreshingly straight-laced Steve Rogers. Transformed from a weedy no-hoper into a strapping superhero in a radical scientific experiment in 1940s New York, he eventually thwarts the ultra-evil Nazi science division, only to be locked in ice for 70 years and reawakened in the present day. Good defeated bad. Everything was very black and white.

Here, in what seems a startlingly bold move by Marvel, he is pitted against Shield itself, the not-so-secret secret agency that has become the tiresome preoccupation of Marvel. Shield’s main man, Samuel L. Jackson’s ever present Nick Fury, has spearheaded a project to spy on the entire world and Captain America is alienated for voicing his concern (‘This isn’t freedom. This is fear.’), teaming up with The Black Widow, played by Scarlett Johansson, to prevent such a violation of American liberty. With the recent prominence of Edward Snowden, whistleblowers and worries over mass surveillance by intelligence agencies, one cannot but admire Marvel’s audacity and apparent relevance.

There is something endearing about Evans’ understated portrayal of the protagonist. Captain America provides a comforting alternative to the swashbuckling enigmas that are most Marvel superheroes, and his emotional depth is enhanced as a result. His reservation provides moments of genuine humour, especially when juxtaposed with the fiery Johansson. There are other commendable performances; Samuel L. Jackson is typically stylish and Robert Redford is well-cast, if perhaps ironically, as the suspiciously determined government official with something to hide.

Unfortunately, the film’s subversive premise is lost halfway through, perhaps incompatible with the film’s principal motivation, and the final acts are typical, if entertaining, CGI set-pieces. Captivating though they may be, one cannot help but wonder what may have been had the plot’s political focus been maintained throughout. That said, this is a superhero movie and the amount of mind-blowing action is more than enough to satisfy the viewer – after all, what were you expecting? The showdown, an almighty battle in the skies above Washington, DC, is exceptionally impressive. 

One wonders how long Marvel’s superhero franchise can continue on action alone though. With Captain America: The Winter Soldier, and its 136 minutes, there was a perfect opportunity to truly reach hitherto unplumbed depths. The film’s descent into typicality, particularly as a conclusion to the promisingly bold premise, leaves one weary with the realisation that there are four more of these money-spinning sequels already in the pipeline. 

Pokémon and changing media

0

Netflix’s recent decision to add Pokémon to its list of shows not only reveals a brilliant awareness about the desperate nostalgia of its main customer base (adult children, often students, with a keen desire to ironically revisit the youth they don’t really remember), but also illustrates an interesting shift in the relationship between supply and demand in the TV business. Many Netflix subscribers, including myself, have experimented with Pokémon: Indigo League – to give it its full title – and have revelled in the adventures of Ash, Misty and Brock, three overwhelmingly 2-dimensional characters in what is, if I abandon sentiment, a sub-par TV adaptation of a video game.

Who am I kidding? I got chills.

Viewers’ attitudes towards Pokémon, and indeed many other shows on Netflix, seem to have come to a point resembling George Mallory’s views on Everest. Why watch all 52 episodes of Pokémon: Indigo League as quickly as possible? Because they are there.

Netflix’s success in recent times has been largely because of the quality of their flagship TV shows. Purchasing the rights for shows such as Breaking Bad, Arrested Development and Homeland have been master-strokes, pulling in viewers and increasing popularity. This has enabled the site to produce their own creative content, which has been a huge boon for the TV industry, with original shows like Orange is the New Black and the incredible House of Cards finding an excellent home in the online streaming market.

But it is what goes on behind the flagship that is most interesting. The still somewhat limited supply of TV and film on the site means that to some extent, Netflix is able to dictate what shows or films come back into fashion. The vogue for Pokémon is entirely due to its being on Netflix.

Does this phenomenon exist elsewhere in culture? The example that springs most immediately to mind is Spotify, the music version of Netflix. Spotify’s coverage, unlike Netflix’s, is almost universal, with artists like AC/DC, Led Zeppelin and Tool being notable for their absence from the service. Though Spotify is far more complete than Netflix, we can see the same effect. Artists not on Spotify are quite simply not going to get as much attention as those who are. Furthermore, Spotify offers some albums to their Premium customers to stream before release, showing another way in which, like Netflix, the supply of media dictates the actions of the consumer.

The Kindle is another prime example. Many classics are available for free on Amazon’s e-reader, meaning that the first thing many people do upon buying a Kindle is to fill in the gaps in their classical bibliography. As e-readers grow in popularity, books not available in the format will – it is certain – struggle to be successful.

As these new ways of accessing cultural content grow, it is inevitable that those who do not move with the times will fall by the wayside. The retailer seems to have more power than they used to, with the ability to dictate what cultural content moves into the mainstream. But in fact this has always been the case. Radio and television schedules define what we watch, and anything on at prime time will do well purely because of its timing. The internet democratizes this process, and actually puts the consumer back in charge. Netflix is still in its infancy, but it is not difficult to imagine it arriving at the same place as Spotify, a service through which it is far easier to find alternative, obscure artists than ever before, and where each artist has an equal chance for success. On the Kindle, there are no tables in bookstores full of the new John Grisham book. Instead, numerous options to find your next read are available.

So it seems that although Netflix has the power to make a whole generation turn back to Pokémon, it also has the capacity to pander to more diverse interests than the idiot box. Just as Spotify opens up a whole new world of music completely separate from the charts and the radio and as the Kindle reignites the world’s passion for reading, so Netflix and its increasingly powerful competitors will facilitate the discovery of lost but brilliant TV and film, excite a more discerning screen audience, and strike ever more fear into the heart of an already declining live market.

NUS votes for free education and to ‘Bring Back Yashika’

0

For the first time in recent years, the NUS has voted to campaign for free education for students in higher education.

The motion was controversial, and only passed narrowly; Toni Pearce, NUS president, advised against the decision, but it was passed yesterday morning.

She was re-elected yesterday as President for 2014/15, receiving 454 votes. Aaron Kiely, the NUS Black Students’ Officer, was second with 150 votes after receiving criticism for his support of George Galloway and accusations of “basket weaving” – a term used in the NUS to describe candidates who take an undemanding, part-time course in order to qualify for a senior position. Jack Duffin, Chair of Youth Independence, the youth wing of UKIP, received only 16 votes, after a number of students staged a walk-out during his hust.

Another controversial motion requiring 50% of all NUS committees to be made up of female members, was also passed. The motion received a standing ovation, but has proved divisive.

Aisling Gallagher, a student from Belfast, defended the motion. “Women DO need extra help. Because structural sexism. Structural inequality. PATRIARCHAL MISOGYNISTIC WORLD”.

Hannah Barton, President of the Exeter Guild, tweeted, “So proud the motion for equal representation passed this evening. Great end to the day and very exciting times ahead”.

Others were more critical of the motion. Hannah Mullarky, Vice President of Student Engagement at Southampton Student Union, said, “If I’d been elected due to my gender not my merits, it would be a hollow victory. Empowerment, not forced representation!”.

LGBT activist @aimsetc said, “Please, please, please don’t vote for 50% Women quotes for #nusnc14. They’re a bad idea for trans people of all genders.”

The third day of the conference saw elections for Student Trustees take place. The results of these will be released on Monday. An emergency “Bring Back Yashika” motion also passed unanimously. This means that the NUS will campaign to bring Yashika, an A-level student recently deported from the UK, back to Britain and allow her to attend university here. Daniel Stevens, the International Students Officer tweeted, “Thank you everyone for voting to continue the #FightForYashika.”

Sinkhole appears outside of Worcester

0

A sinkhole has emerged outside Worcester College. It was spotted by a Cherwell reporter on the morning of the 6th April.

Andrew Burchett, Oxford County Council’s Senior Technician, noted that, “the hole is immediately over the foul sewer belonging to Thames Water.”

The foul sewer transports contaminated wastewater to local sewage treatment works. No damage has been reported to this system. Burchett stated, “after extensive investigation with a CCTV camera put in to the sewer, Thames Water asserted that there was no damage to their sewer and that no material had been washed in to the sewer.”

The reason for the sinkhole’s appearance remains unknown at present time. Paul Smith, Media Manager at Oxfordshire County Council, stated that, “an exact cause for the problem at Walton Street has yet to be determined.”

He went on, “Work will commence tomorrow to remove loose material, carry out further investigations and backfill with stone to enable the road to be reconstructed and open to traffic as soon as we can. It is anticipated that the work will take about two days but until engineers begin to excavate it is not possible to predict exactly how long it will take.”

Bennett remains optimistic that an explanation can be found shortly. He remarked, “Clearly around a tonne of soil has disappeared so we hope that our excavations will reveal the cause of the collapse.”

[mm-hide-text]%%IMG_ORIGINAL%%9405%%[/mm-hide-text] 

Worcester College’s Domestic Bursar, Tim Lightfoot, clarified that the road repair “does not involve the College” and “is being dealt with by Oxfordshire Highways Authority in conjunction with the relevant utilities companies.”

The sinkhole’s appearance has drawn mixed reactions from Oxford’s student body. A Worcester College student stated, “Why am I paying so much money to go to a college with a sinkhole outside?”

Meanwhile, a Christ Church student remarked, “I suspect we’ll be getting an extra flock of tourists now that Worcester’s exterior has attained a new beauty spot.”

Most graduates to be repaying debt in their 50s

0

A majority of students will be repaying their student loans in their 50s, and nearly three-quarters may never earn enough to pay their entire debt off, according to a new study commissioned by the Sutton Trust.

The study, entitled ‘Payback Time?’ was conducted by the Institute for Fiscal Studies and published yesterday. It found that only 5% of graduates will have cleared their student debt by age 40, and that 73% will not be able to repay their debt by the end of the 30-year repayment period.

It found that because many more graduates will still be paying off their student loan in their 40s and 50s, they will be subject to far higher yearly repayments. That is, under the new system, between the ages of 22 and 30, graduates will pay on average £198 less per year as compared to the old system, but £1087 more per year between the ages of 41 and 51 (2014 prices).

Allowing for inflation and anticipated earnings growth, the report shows that under the post-2012 system graduates will on average pay an additional £14,510. In cash terms, the average graduate will repay more than twice what they would under the prior system.

Conor Ryan, Director of Research at the Sutton Trust, said, “There has been a lot said about the lower repayments that graduates make in their twenties under the new loan system, but very little about the fact that many graduates will face significant repayments through their forties, whereas many would previously have repaid their loans by then”.

He continued, “The new system will benefit graduates who earn very little in their lifetime. But for many professionals, such as teachers, this will mean having to find up to £2,500 extra a year to service loans at a time when their children are still at school and family and mortgage costs are at their most pressing. With recent revelations about the proportion of loans unlikely to be repaid, it seems middle income earners pay back a lot more but the Exchequer gains little in return. We believe that the Government needs to look again at fees, loans and teaching grants to get a fairer balance”.

Claire Crawford, of the University of Warwick, who co-authored the study, said, “The new higher education finance system will leave graduates with much more debt than before. But the effects of the changes will be quite different for different people and at different parts of their lives. Graduates who do less well in the labour market will actually end up paying back less than before, while middle and high earners will pay back much more”.

She continued, “In that sense, the system is more progressive and looks in many ways rather like a graduate tax. The size of the repayment threshold also means that graduates will generally pay back less during their twenties but much more later in their careers, especially when they are in their forties. Remarkably, almost three-quarters will have some debt written off 30 years after graduating”.

Review: SOHN – Tremors

0

★★★☆☆
Three Stars

SOHN – real name Christopher Taylor – is a British musician, but his work is immersed in the traditions and atmosphere of his home in Vienna. His debut album Tremors draws influences from the burgeoning electronic scene in the city while also drawing inspiration from British and American artists. First and foremost, he’s from the James Blake school of electronic crooning, but influences from Frank Ocean and The Weeknd are evident in his soulful musings.

Initial tracks ‘Oscillate’ and ‘Warnings’, released back in August 2012, were impressive, filled with an emotional and a musical maturity that announced SOHN as a future big-game player. Both these tracks are, disappointingly, missing from Tremors. Last year’s ‘Bloodflows’, SOHN’s first release on 4AD, raised him to a whole new level. Where previously the electro had carried his singing, lyrical proficiency now reared its head. Naturally, this huge single couldn’t stay off his debut album, but unfortunately it feels somewhat isolated.

No other track on Tremors has the same lyrical depth, nor is any other track as deftly and subtly put together. One gets the feeling that, overcome by his own brilliance with ‘Bloodflows’, SOHN decided that anything else he did would turn out equally well. But the standard has dropped. Lead single ‘Artifice’ has some excitingly energetic beats, but all of SOHN’s beauty was in his subtlety, and it’s difficult to be subtle when you’re belting out “somebody better let me know my name/before I give myself away” (as cheesy a chorus as you will find anywhere this year) over a made-for-club electro riff. In fact, ‘Artifice’ perfectly exemplifies the main problem with this album. Interesting musical threads are weaved together to form a  coherent and intriguing pattern; the tapestry becomes slightly more complex as the vocals are introduced… and then the H&M-advert-hook ruins everything. And when SOHN does slow down on ‘Paralysed’, he’s forgotten that he’s an electro artist and makes do with a plodding piano accompaniment.

Even the wonderful voice distortion on ‘Bloodflows’ and ‘Oscillate’, which had Taylor’s vocals blend into the sound of a repeating synth in a confusing and wonderful way, is overused to the point of exhaustion. This is not to say that the album is a complete disaster. Most of the tracks have something interesting about them. SOHN’s use of digital effects and distortion is still excellent, and Tremors might even make a fine instrumental album. ‘Lessons’ and ‘Bloodflows’ are still great, and title track ‘Tremors’ makes an impressive ending to the album, epic but understated. However, the lack of imagination in the lyrics and the incredible overkill of Taylor’s ‘haunting’ tone makes for a disappointing overall effect, which is a real pity considering the quality of his early work.

Review: The Quiet Ones

0

★☆☆☆☆
One Star

The words “Based on a True Story” have often prefixed movies to great effect. In many ways, the awareness of historical counterparts encourages directors and viewers alike to consider not only what happened but to interrogate the how and why behind the narrative, introducing a level of social psychology which made movies like Zodiac, Snowtown and The Imposter so genuinely unsettling. Unfortunately, as in the case of the The Quiet Ones, it seems that the ‘this actually happened’ marketing strategy is increasingly being used to justify lazy film-making.

The movie follows a physics professor Joseph Coupland (Jarred Harris) in 1974 who assembles a team of three students to channel the energy of a poltergeist which seems to be possessing a young girl. The film’s opening sequences at Oxford University are relatively intriguing, with Coupland espousing his theories to sceptical students in lectures before his funds are cut off entirely by the university administration. Harris’ performance begins to touch on a kind of scholarly neurosis and academic hysteria which would make for an interesting playing-field in this genre but, alas, the production company evidently ran out of money to film in Oxford and so our intrepid foursome relocate their supernatural experiments to – that’ right – an abandoned house in the country.

1974 is the same year The Texas Chainsaw Massacre was released. The characters clearly didn’t make an effort to see it, otherwise they’d have thought twice about making camp in an old homestead.

And thus we have the set-up: a creepy child, playing with a creepy doll, in a creepy building – all being caught on camera by main character Brian (Sam Claflin) much of which is relayed to the audience as grainy, hand-held 8mm footage. The extent to which these same plots are recycled nowadays is infuriating, and it comes as a relief for movie-goers when surprisingly original horror movies like last year’s In Fear (A home invasion film but in a car and in real time) grace our screens.

Admittedly however, there is a voracious appetite for these films which shouldn’t necessarily be scorned. The issue with The Quiet Ones, then, doesn’t lie with unoriginality per se but with the general mind-numbing awfulness of its execution. Films like Insidious, The Woman in Black and The Conjuring were very predictable, exploiting obvious horror movie tropes at every possible turn, yet the scripts were fleshed out to be ultimately quite engaging stories. Here, the dialogue is purely expository, and the lacklustre visuals fail to be disguised under the façade of ‘found footage’.

Claflin is a one-note charisma vacuum, Kristina (Erin Richards) is the token beautiful blonde given nothing to say but placed centre stage for pubescent 15 year olds to gawp at, and even Harris (a reliably brilliant actor) struggles to make anything substantial out of his pantomime ‘mad scientist’ role. The only actor I found in any way engaging was Rory Fleck-Byrne, in that he was head-thumpingly annoying. Personally speaking, I couldn’t wait for him to be killed off by a demonic poltergeist. 

The audience I was with seemed collectively irritated. People were checking their phones and, at other moments, there were inappropriate howls of laughter, as when Kristina reaches the end of her tether with the supernatural occurrences and vows to return to Oxford, exclaiming (with no hint of irony) “We’ve already missed loads of lectures!” Every jump could be anticipated by the routine sound design (Quiet -> Silence -> 1, 2, 3 -> BANG), and the repetitive tense/reliefs induced for the viewer felt less like scares and more like an abdominal workout.

As the screening ended, chatter resumed, and the person sat behind me asked her partner about their evening’s dining options. Indeed, not one person seemed to be talking about the movie – as if The Quiet Ones had rudely interrupted their previous conversation. The film made me long for a viewing experience like last year’s Stoker – a head-scratching horror film made chilling not through artificial loud bangs but through aesthetically arresting cinematography and tantalising lead performances.

It continues to baffle me how commercially successful films like The Quiet Ones are. I suppose it’s largely due to how cheaply they can be made. But considering the inflated price of cinema tickets, I’d recommend going to see a movie where the film-maker has put in slightly more effort, and not explained away a poorly conceived narrative by ostentatiously publicising the fact it is “a true story.”

Which it’s not. Obviously.