Tuesday, May 20, 2025
Blog Page 167

“Buy less, choose well” – the return of the Oxford Fashion Gala

Anya Biletsky
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“Buy less, choose well” – the return of the Oxford Fashion Gala

When, last year, I discovered that Oxford was to hold a fashion gala, I, with many fellow lovers of all things sartorial, was thrilled at the chance to see a real catwalk take place in Oxford. This Trinity, the Fashion Gala is back, for a reprise on an evening of patchwork, glamour and campiness, all within walking distance of the RadCam. 

The second week event is set to feature a dazzling parade of carefully-stitched fabrics and colours, designed by Oxford student creatives and worn by student models. Fashionistas and those with only a moderate interest in the garb alike will be able to come together in Oxford’s glitziest venue – Freud – for an evening of appreciation of fashion in all its forms. The choice of the chapel-turned-nightclub as a venue is certainly apt for its central walkway, which is set to become a sparkly runway for the night.

I spoke with this year’s co-Creative Directors, Shaan Sidhu and Harvey Morris, on their vision for 2023’s Gala and the process behind bringing it to Oxford students in Trinity term. 

The theme for the gala is a quote: “buy less, choose well”. The memorable advice comes from the late designer and fashion legend Vivienne Westwood, who passed away in December last year. Shaan and Harvey are striving to connect the ethos of the gala to the intent of Westwood’s iconic quote; as Shaan states, she and Harvey are keen to “encourage people to use what they already have” when compiling their outfit for the gala. 

This is partly to prompt the sustainable use of items of clothing, especially given the amount of waste that has been produced by the fast fashion industry in recent years. As Shaan explains, it is about “being mindful about what you choose and how much you buy”. Equally, the theme is intended to allow guests to flaunt their personal styles of dress, and make the gala “a creative experience for everyone involved”, Harvey says. 

The Fashion Gala team has been working with a group of student designers, who number almost twenty. Some of the designers are working closely with their models, while others are modelling for themselves. Guests of the gala can safely expect a tantalising assortment of designs. 

As for the evening itself, Shaan and Harvey emphasise the importance of the event being open and welcoming to all. Indeed, Harvey explains that the event does not have a specific dress code, being neither “necessarily formal” nor “necessarily casual”. He expresses that “fashion can feel very serious and constrained sometimes, and we want it to feel fun and inviting to everyone”. 

Shaan indicates the evening’s intention to be a “spectacle”, and a “showcase of designers and the creativity of people in Oxford” – of which there is certainly plenty. It will be “celebratory and joyous”, Harvey adds.

As well as the main catwalk event, there will also be a live music act and DJs. Shaan is aware that the gala is the day after May Day – but she assures that it will be a very different sort of event. “Please do both”, she jokingly encourages. I know I will be.

The Oxford Fashion Gala will be held on Tuesday 2nd May at Freud. Tickets will be available here.

Image credit: Coco Cottam. Courtesy of Coco Cottam and the Oxford Fashion Gala.

The sky’s the limit: Oxford’s dreaming spires and spiralling costs

Vansh Sharma
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The sky’s the limit: Oxford’s dreaming spires and spiralling costs

Vansh Sharma confronts Oxford’s spiralling cost of living crisis, investigating whether housing supply is a factor

In the shadows of Oxford’s tallest spire, a burgeoning crisis has made an appearance, eating away at the financial foundations of all who call Oxford home. Amidst the already clustered labyrinth of factors contributing to the cost of living crisis in the United Kingdom, Oxford emerges as a city which has found itself putting salt on an already festering wound. 

A city steeped in golden history and academic excellence has for long enlivened the people who have had the honour of stepping foot on its hallowed streets. As students find their way through a financial pothole associated with pursuing tertiary education, the current cost of living crisis begs the question: Does the City of Oxford serve as a haven or a hindrance in this financial whirlpool? By detailing the depths of Oxford’s architectural constraints and the “University City” effect, this article aims to detail the multifaceted manner in which Oxford ultimately exacerbates the cost of living crisis. 

The significance of Oxford’s skyline goes without saying, filled with its “Dreaming Spires” it is without a doubt an enduring symbol of the city’s rich historical and architectural past. A height limit underpins this architectural uniformity and ensures Oxford’s precious skyline heritage is kept. As part of the array of measures implemented to safeguard the iconic spires, the city council incorporated a policy measure known as ‘the Carfax Rule’ into its local plan. This rule derives its name from the extant tower of St Martin’s Church, which occupies a central position at the city’s historic crossroads and is crucial to the composition of the distinctive skyline featuring historic towers and spires. The local plan policy (2001-2016) was strict, stating that no planning permission would be granted for developments within a 1,200-metre radius of Carfax that exceed either 18.2m (60ft) in height or an ordnance datum (height above sea-level) of 79.3m (260ft), whichever is lower. 

To understand the consequences of the building constraints on the Cost of Living Crisis, it is important to understand its impact on Oxford’s property market and the basic economic laws of Supply and Demand. While the Carfax Rule’s building constraints safeguarded the city’s skyline, it is crucial to recognise its repercussions on the property, housing and rental market and the subsequent financial pressures it thrust upon Oxford’s residents. The preservation of the city’s skyline and unique character limited available land for development, reducing the housing supply and therefore driving up property and rental prices. This elevated cost of housing and commercial properties also has a trickle-down effect on the prices of goods and services where it ultimately impacts the normal consumer, like me and you, in the form of higher prices. The high demand for accommodation in Oxford, engendered by the city’s student population and its spires of dreamy allure, grapples with the scarcity of supply of available rental spaces due to this skyward constraint. Allowing landlords to jack up prices due to the insanely high demand for their rental properties. Consequently, despite its small populace, property and rental prices in Oxford are the fourth most expensive in the United Kingdom with an average rental price of £1,135.02 for a one-bed rental in the city centre. With a population density of 3,509 people per km2 which is eight times more than the national average of 434 per km2 coupled with the building restrictions and the low supply of rental properties, the cause for this is clear as daylight. 

Moreover, these limitations on building heights did not leave without having an impact on Oxford’s colleges. These colleges confront mounting pressures to furnish affordable housing solutions, but the height limitations impeded the colleges from building cost-effective accommodations within the city’s confines. As a result, students now find themselves having to grapple with the consequences in the form of higher accommodation fees. Colleges are forced to build on the expensive property whilst also having to disperse their students over multiple accommodations throughout the city in order to cut costs. This leads to students having to travel far distances in order to get to their lectures and tutoring sessions. The high property and rental costs in Oxford not only highlight the strong demand for real estate but also demonstrate college inefficiency. Funds spent on acquiring pricey properties and constructing and maintaining suboptimal student housing could have been allocated to salaries or enhancing research and development within the colleges. 

Oxford’s Cost of living crisis is clear to see. In February, Oxford’s inflation was 10.3%, one of the highest in the whole country. Between Q1 2021 and Q4 2022 Petrol prices rose £12.09, Grocery prices rose £11.39 and Energy prices rose £54.01. Oxford was ranked the second most expensive city to live in the UK, only behind Winchester. Coupled with this is that the city also has the 5th lowest average disposable income. 

An ancillary factor, which is exacerbating the cost of living in Oxford is the fact that it is a “University City”. Being a university city underpins the constantly fluctuating profitability of a local business during term-time and non-term time periods. As the academic calendar oscillates between term-time and vacation, commercial enterprises witness a stark contrast in revenue generation. Vacation periods yield diminished revenue for businesses as the student populace disperses. Consequently, businesses and landlords are compelled to raise prices in order to generate as much revenue as possible during term-time to counterbalance the lower revenue generation they will undoubtedly see during non-term time periods. Oxford’s current total population stands at 162 222 and its student population is 43 355 with 26 455 being University of Oxford students and 16 900 being Oxford Brookes students. No city can be economically healthy if 30% of its population, which are also its main consumers, are on vacation for 1/3 of the year. This intermittent economic landscape engenders an unstable environment that adversely impacts all inhabitants and is a relevant factor in the cost of living within a city. This is clearly evident as both Oxford, Cambridge and several other cities in the UK and US consistently rank in the top most expensive cities to live in nationally. 

By allowing buildings to go over the building height limit, the city could restore the housing supply back to a healthy equilibrium and reduce the current property market tension drastically. In turn, this would catalyse a decline in property and rental prices, conferring relief upon businesses and consequently upon students and residents alike. Nonetheless, the urgent need for additional housing and property must be properly balanced with the preservation of Oxford’s architectural and historical past. Any adjustments to the height limitations or construction areas, should be done with good judgement and sense, ensuring that new developments do not mar the city’s unique character and do not take away from Oxford’s iconic allure. This interplay between Oxford’s building limitations and its architectural and historical heritage, coupled and exaggerated with the current cost of living and housing crisis, requires a multifaceted and carefully managed approach. 

In the end, tackling the cost of living in Oxford calls for an understanding of the multiple factors contributing to the issue. The city’s housing crisis, building height restrictions, resurgence post-global pandemic, an energy crisis, the highest inflationary period in the UK in 40 years, three Prime Ministers, citywide teachers and nurses strikes, and Oxford’s distinct “University City” nature all collectively contributed to making Oxford one of the hardest hit cities in the ongoing cost of living quandary. By acknowledging and confronting these complexities, policymakers, businesses, and educational institutions can collaboratively work towards creating a more equitable and sustainable economic environment for all who call Oxford home.

Image Credit: Chris Rycroft//CC BY 2.0 via Flickr

Why the Tories will win the next election (and why they shouldn’t)

Charles Chadwick
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Why the Tories will win the next election (and why they shouldn’t)

Gambling, as we all know, is a mug’s game. However, you would especially question the sanity of the person who walked into a betting shop and placed any healthy money on a Conservative victory at the next general election. Indeed, with 88% of bookies now predicting Keir Starmer as the next occupant of Number Ten, it would seem the equivalent of taking a punt on Bournemouth winning the League, pigs flying, or Joe Biden making a speech in coherent English. 

The facts would seem to back this up. The Conservative party, never up there with sliced bread on the popularity list, has managed to alienate pretty much everyone in the country outside the Cabinet, and probably a fair few of those within it. For the left, the Tories are, even more than ever, migrant-hating, child-starving, nurse-bashing evil fascists. However, more worryingly for ‘Dishy’ Rishi, his traditional supporters seem to be abandoning ship too. 

Against this backdrop, what I’m about to argue may seem nonsensical: not only will the Tories avoid annihilation in 2024, but they will even hold on to power for another five years. In short, anyone who did make the bet would be very rich indeed. 

Before you pitchfork me off to join Liz Truss in the political loony bin, consider some facts. Such was the scale of Boris Johnson’s earthquake in 2019 that Labour would need to pick up over 100 extra seats merely in order to secure a majority of one. This would require a swing greater than that of 1997, the largest landslide in modern political history, and for Labour candidates to overturn majorities upwards of 11,000, demolishing both the ‘red wall’, and the ‘blue wall’. 

For this to happen, two things must take place. Firstly, the Tories must lose. Secondly, Labour has to win. 

On the first count, remember the iron will of the Conservative party to survive. As its long history shows, it will go to any step, adopt any idea, in order to cling on to power. In Sunak’s case, his plan for survival is based around stability and competence. After the sheer chaos surrounding his two predecessors, the Prime Minister is seeking to ‘make politics boring again’. Despite Labour attempts to continue their attack on ‘Tory sleaze’, this largely seems to be working, and, as a recent poll for Conservative Home shows, his rising popularity among the membership makes any leadership contest before the next election unlikely. 

Furthermore, in his outlining of five clear goals, Sunak appears to be proving that his party is capable of achieving things. It is true that these five achievements are not as impressive as they might seem: halving inflation, for instance, has much more to do with global energy prices than with any concrete policy of this government. Nevertheless, there are early signs of success. The Windsor Framework has led to a rapprochement with Europe which has been widely praised. Similarly, the deal with Albania seems to have led to a small but real reduction in the number of ‘small boats’ crossing the channel so far this year. This seems to be translating into success in the polls, with the Spectator’s average moving from a Labour lead of 30% six months ago to 17% now. This leaves a long way to go, but it is progress. 

Even if the Conservatives were to throw away the next election, Labour are showing few signs that they will actively win it either. Two things are repeated ad nauseum in praise of Keir Starmer: that he has vanquished the left; and that he has made his party look competent again. Yet, in my submission, these are testament to the paucity of any true achievements. It says much about the arrogance, self-importance, and sheer incompetence of a political party that the fact it is no longer indulging in civil war is touted as a major step forward. Equally, there is a danger of mistaking the appearance of competence for true ability. 

On their fundamental policy platform, Labour have forced themselves into an ideological straight jacket, which, though understandable, even necessary, for their political rehabilitation, severely limits their manoeuvrability. On the economy, Rachel Reeves’ commitment to match Conservative spending plans may help her party to ditch its reputation for fiscal incompetence, but also means they cannot outspend the Tories. All very well to sympathize with strikers, but not much use if a Labour government could not up their pay. Likewise, in taking a tougher stance on the so-called ‘culture war’, Sir Keir risks alienating his own activists in order to fight a battle he cannot win. 

In this difficult position, Labour has tried the high-minded, intellectualist approach, with a myriad of Delphic slogans, and, to be fair, some genuinely creative policies, like Wes Streeting’s ideas for NHS reform. However, given that most members of the shadow cabinet are unknown outside of their immediate families (John Healey, anyone? Steve Reed?), it is unsurprising this has had little cut-through. And so, this week we have been treated to a new approach, as Starmer has sought to go for the jugular, somewhat implausibly branding dishy Rishi as a latter-day Jimmy Saville, in hoc to the paedophiles of Britain. The problem with this, as was shown in the dismal media rounds, is that Labour MPs do not have the unity or the will to follow this up. They are as implausible as if the class nerd tried to turn into the bully. 

This is not necessarily to criticise Starmer. The wider problem is that Labour simply hasn’t faced up to the realignment that has taken place in British politics since it was last in power. Put simply, it will take more than appeals to competence and decency to unite Islington and Workington. Labour can be a middle-class, globalist, technocratic party, or it can return to its roots as a socially conservative, economically interventionalist idea. It cannot do both. 

If, in two years’ time, Labour has a majority of 500, I will have no hesitation in eating humble pie. However, until they fully come to terms with the populist realignment, it is my submission that they are doomed to remain in opposition. This is bad for the right, too. With no opportunity to be destroyed and rebuilt, the Tories will continue to fail. The electoral juggernaut will roll on, directionless, intellectually exhausted, and yet unstoppable, to a fifth victory: the most popular unpopular party in political history. 

Image Credit poppet with a camera//CC BY-NC 2.0 via Flickr

Interview: ‘Macbeth’ at the Pilch, an ensemble of tragedies

Anuj Mishra
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Interview: ‘Macbeth’ at the Pilch, an ensemble of tragedies

Anuj Mishra in conversation with the Alice Chakraborty (Producer), Andrew Raynes (Director), and Juliette Imbert (Lady Macbeth), from Happier Year Productions’ staging of Macbeth in 2nd Week on tragedy, why we love Lady Macbeth, and reimagining Shakespeare…

This is, of course, one of Shakespeare’s most well-known tragedies, and has, according to the Cherwell archives, been performed in Oxford theatres five times in the last ten years. What drew you to putting on this production and facing the mammoth challenge of playing Shakespeare?

Andrew: What really draws me to Macbeth, and has done for years, is the strength of the other characters, and their relationships. For me, for example, that Macduffs’ marriage is falling apart is just as important as the marriage between Lady Macbeth and Macbeth.

Alice: When we were deciding what play we wanted to put on in Trinity, we knew we wanted to go for something more ‘classical’. In choosing Macbeth, we wanted to focus on those peripheral characters and relationships rather than just making it a very plain tragedy about one guy. It’s because of that that we have a larger cast than is strictly necessary: we wanted to make people and their characters distinctive.

Your description of the play says that this production “reimagines Macbeth for audiences of today”: what’s new here that audiences can expect from Macbeth?

Alice: Shakespeare gives us so much space to sort of deal with psychological problems, which aren’t always necessarily textual, but really come through in rehearsals and give the performance a higher level of connection with the audience.

Andrew: Along those lines of psychological exploration, we’re reimagining the witches in terms of how we can best represent the supernatural as it would have been for 17th Century audiences. This society was obsessed with and had precise notions of the supernatural, whereas today our collective anxieties are far more distant. We’re trying to carry out a sort of ‘temporal translation’ in representing the witches as a manifestation of these.

I’d usually ask for a brief outline of the play at this point, but I imagine most of our readers are familiar with the plot. Instead, what are the cast-favourite moments in the play?

Juliette: I’m looking forward to the porter coming and doing his speech: it’s such a nice bit of comedic relief in the middle of the play. A lot of productions of Macbeth just take it out, and there’s a view that it’s inappropriate to have comedy at this point, but I feel like it’s very important in tragedies to break it up, otherwise it’s just intense the whole way through.

Also, the scene where Macbeth starts chickening out and says he’s not going to kill Duncan and I (as Lady Macbeth) have to sway him. In rehearsal we talked about the psychology of what’s going on there, and we’re doing our best to not have Lady Macbeth being manipulative the whole way through just for the sake of it.

We’ve talked quite a bit about Lady Macbeth, and there has certainly been a turn recently in popular debate and in productions towards humanising her and examining in more detail her motivations. Let’s have a go at describing her in three words:

Juliette: Insecure, desperate, clever.

Alice: Powerful but scared.

Andrew: Loyal, well-intentioned, caring.

(Andrew’s words are met with vigorous nods around the room)

What visuals, in terms of set design and staging, can audiences expect as we settle down to Macbeth in the Pilch?

Alice: Realism is not necessarily a priority. The Pilch is, at the end of the day, a black-box theatre, and we’re never going to be able to recreate a medieval castle, even if we wanted to. Luckily, we don’t want to.

Andrew: As it is, we are planning on having a very bare stage. It’s going to be atmosphere to the roof (literally). We’re trying to create space with lighting and sound. When you’re working with such a small theatre and a play with such a range of settings, I think going with non-traditional staging is the most efficient and interesting way of doing things.

Any final thoughts?

Andrew: Macbeth won’t be a lengthy, three-hour tragedy (Happier Year’s version is closer to an hour-and-a-half), what better way to spend the Coronation bank holiday weekend?

Macbeth will run at the Michael Pilch Theatre from the 3rd until the 6th of May. Tickets are on sale now at https://www.ticketsource.co.uk/happieryearproductions?fbclid=PAAaapdDJXTYsbMZQ2SwP_DHZM7movyVk7mXJVMr0Xk_CwI7iQtCmZJHbbSTk

Oxford moves towards digital admissions testing

Andy Wei
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Oxford moves towards digital admissions testing

Oxford’s unique admissions tests may be moving online as the University switches providers.

Long-time partner Cambridge Assessment Admissions Testing (CAAT) has announced its decision to withdraw from administering Oxford’s admissions tests. From 2023 onwards, eight of the ten Oxford admissions tests will be delivered by Tata Consulting Services (TCS). These are the CAT (Classics), ELAT (English), MLAT (Modern Languages), OLAT (Oriental Languages), PAT (Physics), HAT (History), and Philosophy tests, which are all unique to Oxford.

The other two tests, the Thinking Skills Assessment (TSA) and BioMedical Admissions Test (BMAT), are used by multiple universities. CAAT will administer the TSA and BMAT for one more year, using a paper-based format, before withdrawing entirely from running any admissions tests used by Oxford.

In explaining its decision, CAAT said: “The bespoke tests are operationally unsustainable over the medium term, given their significant complexity and the need to deliver them affordably to students and higher education institutions”.

Oxford’s new partner TCS believes that the solution lies in a digital transformation. TCS is India’s second largest company by market capitalisation and widely regarded as a leader in information technology services.

Dr Samina Khan, Director of Undergraduate Admissions and Outreach, said of the partnership: “This new agreement with TCS offers exciting opportunities for the future of our admissions testing, including the possibility of wholly digital delivery and marking. 

“I am confident that our new arrangement with TCS will help in time to modernise how the tests are delivered and over the coming months we will be consulting with a range of stakeholders, including students and schools and colleges, to ensure their views are considered throughout the development phase”.

Oxford’s webpage for admissions tests indicates that further details on new test arrangements, including the registration process, “will be available shortly”.

Dear Britain: Biden doesn’t hate you… you’re just not relevant.

Samuel Moore
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Dear Britain: Biden doesn’t hate you… you’re just not relevant.

Recently, President Biden ignited controversy when he announced that he wouldn’t attend the coronation. The right-wing British press has seized upon this as yet another example of his supposedly long-standing anti-British sentiment. Dan Wootton of the Daily Mail alleges that Biden’s pride for his Irish heritage, his mother’s hatred of the late queen, and his sympathy for Megan Markle indicate that he is “both monarchy and Britain-hating”. These ridiculous claims reveal an embarrassing delusion about the global status of Britain, that I hope to set straight. Because frankly, your arrogance has gone on long enough.

The first example of Biden’s anti-British sentiment, Wootton claims, occurred shortly after his victory in the 2020 election. A reporter with the BBC asked the then president-elect for “a quick word with the BBC”, only for Biden to jovially respond, “the BBC? I’m Irish!”, which sparked an immediate meltdown on the British right. Washed-up Brexiteer, Nigel Farage tweeted, “as you can see from this clip, Biden hates the UK”, and in his more recent article, Wootton labouriously recalls how Biden gave the journalist a “threatening glare, before breaking out into a grin”. Who knew that the British, famous across the pond for their splendid wit, could fail to recognize such an obvious joke? More serious concern has risen from Biden’s consistent dedication to peace in Northern Ireland. Throughout his presidency, he has opposed the Northern Ireland protocol and supported the return of power-sharing between Catholic and Protestant parties. When he reiterated this last week in Belfast, former First Minister of Northern Ireland, Arlene Foster, again levied the accusation that Biden is an Irish nationalist who “hates the UK”, as if there could be no other possible reason for the president to be invested in the stability of Western Europe.

Not much time needs to be spent debunking these ridiculous claims. Biden has worked closely with all three of the past Prime Ministers to provide aid to Ukraine, and last year signed the AUKUS pact, whereby the US and the UK will jointly assist Australia in the acquisition of nuclear-powered submarines to protect their interests in the Pacific against China. And as for Biden’s position on Northern Ireland, support for the Good Friday Agreement has hardly been a novel foreign policy initiative of the United States. If Biden’s goal has been to wreak vengeance upon Britain for the mistreatment of his Irish ancestors, he has done a poor job.

So what explains his refusal to attend the king’s coronation? Wootton ominously describes how amidst the Troubles, Biden’s pro-IRA mother advised him, “don’t you bow down to her”, before the then-young senator met with the late queen. But while this makes a compelling tale of patriotism and vengeance, the truth is perhaps much more frightening to right-wing British ears: Britain is simply not relevant enough to warrant the president’s participation in its twee ceremonies. After World War II, the exhausted British Empire rapidly crumbled. India and Pakistan went first in the 40s, then the West Indies in the 50s, and finally Africa in the 60s. Even the white settler colonies of the British Empire, namely Canada, Australia, and New Zealand, drifted away. Australia and New Zealand have pursued closer relations with each other and their neighbours in Southeast Asia, and with the signing of NAFTA in 1994, Canada went from being Britain’s eldest son to America’s younger brother. Despite all the attempts by Britain to reassert itself as a great power, such as its botched attempt to maintain control of the Suez Canal in 1956, its refusal to adopt the euro, and most recently Brexit, it is obvious that Britain has little hope of being anything other than a medium-sized European regional-power.

While few are deluded enough to believe that Britain is still the empire it once was, many British right-wingers believe that Britain maintains, or ought to maintain, a kind of cultural hegemony over its former colonies. The monarchy is a good example of this. When its colonies gained independence, Britain assented with the caveat that Queen Elizabeth remained their ceremonial head of state. This arrangement allowed Britain to pretend as though they still had an empire, without the economic and ethical costs attached. For most former colonies, however, this was temporary. By the time of her death, the number of realms Elizabeth ruled over had declined from thirty-two to fifteen, and it is likely that this decline will only accelerate under the less popular and more scandal-ridden King Charles. I do not intend to dispute the supposed benefits that the monarchy gives to Britain, but to pretend as though it has relevance beyond this island, including in its former colonies is absurd. Neither Narendra Modi of India, Shebhaz Sharif of Pakistan, nor Muhammadu Buhari of Nigeria will be attending Charles’s coronation, despite the fact that their countries used to be ruled over by the British monarchy – nor should they. Why should the symbols of a brief and miserable half-century of colonialism be so prized when these countries have their own traditions and ceremonies?

Some might argue that the United States is different from these. After all, the United States speaks the same language, follows the same religion, and has the same ancestors as Britain. There is a supposed “special relationship” between the British and the Americans, some say. But even this is overblown. The United States has always been a melting pot, and its composition has significantly changed from the colonial days of Jamestown and Plymouth Rock. In addition to its original indigenous inhabitants, the United States has been shaped by massive waves of immigration from Europe, Asia, Africa, and Latin America. According to a 2000 census, only around 12% of Americans claim British ancestry. That is equal to the number of Americans who identify as black, and smaller than the 17% who identify as German and the 19% who identify as Hispanic. With these statistics, Biden has more of a reason to attend the coronation of the Spanish king, the opening of the Bundestag, or the inaugurations of West African presidents than to indulge in the United Kingdom’s quaint ceremony surrounding its powerless figurehead. To demand that the leader of the free world pay special attention to it would be beyond entitled.


My message to those upset by Biden’s actions is simple. Britain isn’t the vast colonial empire it once was, and it’s about time people stop pretending it is. Enjoy the coronation – but don’t expect everyone else to.

[Biden] Image Credit: UKinUSA / CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Captain’s Corner: OUBbC

Zoe Abereoje
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Captain’s Corner: OUBbC

Cherwell was given the opportunity to speak with the Oxford University Basketball Club’s president, Shivani Abensour, in our first instalment of Captain’s Corner.

Tell us about when you started playing basketball?

I started playing the year before I joined Oxford, in my gap year. When I joined Oxford I tried out for OUBBC, I didn’t really think I’d get selected, but I did.

What made you want to get involved with basketball in Oxford?

My older brother got me involved in basketball at home. When I got to Oxford, I thought “I’ll try it out, why not? Being on a team sounds fun.” Trials were super intimidating because there were loads of people who could play basketball really well. When I got selected, I remember thinking this is going to be so much fun because basketball is such a great sport to meet lots of people. It’s super sociable.

What drew you to basketball?

It’s both a good workout and a nice thing to have alongside your work and other stuff that keeps you busy at Oxford. After a basketball training session, you come out sweaty and exhausted and feeling like you had a proper workout. I enjoy that. It helps that the people are nice and stuff. It’s always a great time.

What makes basketball the best sport?

There’s two sides to it. If you’re athletic, you can do well, but at the same time there’s so much intelligence to the sport, and you can really study it, its tactics and plays for example. Plus, I think it really teaches you to have a strong mindset. To say “Okay, well, this week I haven’t been doing very well. But next week, I’ll be back pushing through the tough times.

What position do you play?

I’m usually shooting guard.

What does a shooting guard do?

I’m quite small. Shooting guards, stay kind of outside the three-point lines and cut through. You’re not a big player who’s posting up next to the hoop. If you have a good dribble and a good shot, you’ll get on as a shooting guard.

Is OUBbC just tall people only?

No. It does help if you’re tall, but at our level, being smaller, and more athletic and stuff is better than if you’re really tall, but not athletic in any way. Anyone can join the club – in the blues team, we didn’t have that many tall people this year.

How’s the season gone?

Pretty well. In the BUCS league, both teams are in Division One, The men finished third and the women finished second. Which was really great, because when we started, we thought we were going to get relegated! The women 2’s however got relegated to division three, which is unfortunate but probably a good thing anyways, because they lost quite a lot of players last year.

And this season saw the men’s team join the National Basketball League?

Yes, we started in the NBL this year. A lot of the Blues players are very skilled and wanted to play in the league especially considering they are doing so well. The only downside is that when you join the NBL you have to start at the bottom division and work your way up. So yeah, they were doing well, they finished 5th this season.

How did varsity go?

Varsity was a clean sweep for OUBBC with wins across both the blues and reserves for men and women. The W2 game however went down to the wire.

The W2 game was intense, all over the place. You didn’t really know who was going to win until the last minute. In the other games, despite what the scoreline suggests, they were close. The woman’s blues game, for example, started out quite close. As the game went on, and the second half began we started playing really well. One of our shooters got a few 3-pointers and that created the gap. All the games were really good fights. It wasn’t like one team was massively dominating over the other.

Was Varsity altogether a memorable day?

Yes, it was a big day, we even had a pop-up shop! We had so many spectators, I think 180 seats in the Main Hall. Plus the top of Main Hall was packed. By the end of the day, we had maybe 200, or 300 spectators!

What’s your best sporting moment?

Winning varsity this year. It’s my last year here and I’ve won all my varsities throughout my time which is great. It was a nice way to end, winning in the last game of the season, my last game representing Oxford.

What is the worst defeat that you can think of?

Our defeat against Worcester. It wasn’t the worst defeat of the year, but it was hard because the players were tough on us. The vibe of the game was more aggressive and there was a lot of chat. That wasn’t a fun game to play.

Did you guys decide to embrace the spirit of smack talk from them?

No, that’s really not our thing. All the girls on the team are very friendly and very nice. I don’t think any of us could ever talk back in the team.

The worst bit about being President of OUBBC?

It’s a lot of responsibility, and I juggle lots of jobs at one time.

And the best bit is?

Giving back to a club has given me so much. But also changing the way the club was run. Giving more attention to women’s and wheelchair basketball at Oxford. OUBBC is a joint club and equal treatment is important.

One’s to watch?

Holly Hayward. I think she had a game where she scored only 3 pointers, that’s crazy! Maike Meier plays WNBL for reading, not only is she an amazing player she has a great vibe. On the men’s side, there’s Josh Soifer who has the highest number of points in a game in our history, which was over 50 points, perhaps 56 or something, which is crazy. Also, their captain Alex Koukouravas is another great player.

Where do you see the club going in the future?

It slightly depends on who’s there and who’s staying, but definitely growing wheelchair basketball and giving them more help to have a proper team. Besides that, the goal is to build solid teams and keep winning our varsities.

Where can we watch OUBBC?

The season’s over now. But when it resumes, we have BUCS games on Wednesdays and the NBL on Saturdays all at Iffley. BUCS games are always great to watch, usually with 6 pm or 8 pm Tip. It’s good vibes even if you don’t really know basketball, it’s always fun.

Image Credit:[Shivani Abensour] Oxford University Basketball Club

Top 10 Films for a Trouble-Free Trinity

Hetta Johnson
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Top 10 Films for a Trouble-Free Trinity

For many, Trinity term brings about deadlines, exams and proves to be one of the more stressful terms of the academic year. But, for every bit of stress, there’s a summer day, an approaching sense of closure and a long sprawling summer to keep us going. With those days in mind, here’s a list of my top ten films for a trouble-free trinity.  

1.     Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. In this 1986 comedy caper, high school wise-guy, Ferris, has refined the art of skipping school and getting away with it. Ahead of his graduation, he is determined to enjoy one more day off with his girlfriend and best friend despite his principal’s mission to catch him. In the words of whip-smart Ferris: ‘Life moves pretty fast; if you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it!’. If that isn’t a welcome reminder for Trinity, I don’t know what is.  

2.     Everything, Everywhere All at Once. The film that swept this year’s Oscars is every bit deserving of the critical acclaim it’s been receiving. The absurdist adventure follows Chinese immigrant, Evelyn, who alone must save the world from an inter-dimensional rupture. There are sausage fingers, googly eyes, unfinished taxes and a massive heart at the core of the film that spotlights the highs and lows of the so-called American Dream. If you want a slice of summer escapism, look no further. 

3.     Black Panther is the film that marked a new chapter for the MCU. With a hugely successful commercial release and critical acclaim, the film demonstrated to Hollywood and its audiences the beauty and importance of African-American narratives. The film has a stellar cast and is a stunning superhero adventure to immerse yourself in. 

4.     Stand by Me. Four friends decide to sneak away from their homes and hike to find the corpse of a local teenager killed by a passing train. It’s not the typical set up for a coming-of-age story and yet it works. As Gordie, Chris (young River Phoenix is a particular stand out performance), Teddy and Vern pick their way across train tracks and woodlands, they all go through learning curves that will resonate with audiences as much now as the film did when it was released in 1986. 

5.     The Unbearable Weight of Massive Talent. Nicolas Cage plays a version of himself in this bonkers comedy that sees himself, a struggling actor, accept a payment of $1 million dollars to be the guest of honour at the mysterious Javi Gutierrez’s Mallorca birthday bash. The film is hilarious, wild and the perfect way to spend a couple of hours destressing this term.  

6.     Pride and Prejudice (2005). It’s hard to get more romantic than Mr. Darcy’s hand flex after helping Lizzie into her carriage and, for that scene and more swoon-worthy romance, Joe Wright’s Pride and Prejudice is the one to watch. With its dewy cinematography, longing stares and familial charm, this take on Jane Austen’s classic is the ultimate comfort watch. 

7.     Good Luck to You, Leo Grande. Emma Thompson’s English teacher hires sex worker, Leo, in hopes of fulfilling everything she’s missed out on in three decades of marriage with her late husband. Daryl McCormack and Emma Thompson make an electric pair on screen and, with a minimal set and Emma Thompson’s final, empowering nude scene, Good Luck to You, Leo Grande is an absolute feel-good delight. 

8.     Top Gun. 1986 was a great film for cinema and Top Gun is a large reason why. A classic for a reason, Tom Cruise stars as Pete ‘Maverick’ Mitchell who, alongside his best friend, Goose, are training at the Navy’s prestigious fighter weapons school. Exhilarating action sequences, an iconic soundtrack and heartfelt relationships has ensured that this aviation adventure has stood the test of time and makes for the perfect summer watch.

9.     The Breakfast Club. Another iconic film from the 80s, The Breakfast Club sees a band of teenagers from different high school cliques thrown together for another after-school detention. Overcoming their preconceived notions of each other, the film resounded with my teenage self when I first watched it, over thirty years after its release, and remains timeless. 

10.  Coco. Young Miguel has a passion for music despite his family’s ancestral ban on it in their household. Journeying into the Land of the Dead, Miguel finds adventure, music, magic and learns more about himself and his family than he had ever hoped for. Teenage me was impervious to the hype of this film, firmly believing myself to be ‘too old’ for animated movies. But, having finally sat down to watch it with my family, I was proven entirely wrong. Coco is an absolute treasure of a movie – bright, heartfelt, funny and utterly charming, it’s a joy of a film to ensure a trouble-free trinity. 

Trinity term can, notoriously, be a stressful time for students who struggle to give themselves a break in the face of mounting academic pressure and deadlines. Hopefully, this selection of films will provide momentary reprieve for any who may need it. Happy watching!

‘Cozzie livs’ core: recession fashion trends

Tosin Olusoji
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‘Cozzie livs’ core: recession fashion trends

If mankind has established one thing in the recent years of pestilence and political disarray, it is that anything can become a fashion aesthetic. From the notorious “clean girl aesthetic” (think: linen, small hooped earrings, slicked-back hair, green smoothies) to “bloke core” (think: football tops, baggy or straight-leg jeans), we’ve seen it all and yet barely scratched the surface.

However, “recession core”, a buzz phrase that has recently sprung up 3 years into the current global economic depression, is not the first example of fashion trends reflecting economic decline. Various fashion commentators have noted that the 2008 global financial crisis marked the end of the ‘McBling’ fashion trend, where celebrities and fashion models wore bejewelled materials, heavy jewellery and fur. 2008 saw many celebrities arriving at red carpet events with their necks bare instead of adorned with chains and necklaces, and in more muted, simpler gowns than in previous years.

So how is the “Cozzie Livs”, an abbreviated name for the current global cost of living crisis, influencing fashion trends in 2023?

1. Denim-everything

According to both Vogue and Hello Magazine, “designers made denim sexy for SS23”. Denim is, in fact, everywhere right now: from the famous denim jumpsuit only 3 degrees of separation away from you, to denim maxi, mini and micro-skirts that can be worn during any season. It makes perfect sense in a time of financial decline to make a staple material in everybody’s wardrobe a hot item, and high fashion slightly more relatable. Simplicity and relatability are key influencing factors for designers during recessions.

2. Loose and airy

Various observers have noted that a recurring fashion trend during economic depressions is the donning of baggy trousers, and 2023 is certainly no exception to that rule. In fact, trousers that aren’t loose-fitting are becoming an increasingly rare sight. This winter, the streets of Oxford have been filled with cargo trousers and wide-leg jeans, and during the spring and approaching summer, one can expect to see many pairs of long-line, denim skate shorts and white linen trousers. But why do we go baggy during financial slumps? A logical explanation would be that less consumption due to financial restrictions necessitates the trousers that we do consume to not run the risk of being outgrown.

3. Minimalism

In solidarity with interior design, clothing trends, too, are becoming minimalist. The above-mentioned “clean girl aesthetic”, as well as the business casual look, were both simple but extremely popular fashion styles throughout 2022: this suggests that bright colours, patterns and logos are receding out of popular style. Instead, we are more often seeing monochromatic or dichromatic looks. Muted tones, simple earrings (such as small hooped earrings) and plain bags (often having a barely or non-visible logo) are also on the rise.

We are also seeing less clothing in comparison to the 2019 pre-recession layering trend, where celebrities wore several layers of different coloured clothing. Echoing the recession fashion trends of 2008, celebrities are similarly losing their necklaces on the red carpet. It almost goes without saying why minimalist fashion becomes trendy during recessions, but this pattern also happens to complement the already minimalist interiors of trendy apartments, the simple logos of the biggest companies and a large proportion of current web design.

What to expect: the hemline index

According to the ‘hemline index’, which proposes that skirt hemlines increase in length as the economy declines, we should expect to see streets lined with midi skirts. However, both pleated and denim miniskirts seem to be all the rage this recession. If it is possible to place any sort of positive spin on such dark times, collectively consuming fewer clothes allows for us to get more creative with the clothes we do have, and also offers the environment a nice warm hug.

For the Love of Libraries: The Taylorian

Rumaisa Khusru
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<strong data-src=For the Love of Libraries: The Taylorian" title="For the Love of Libraries: The Taylorian" />

The city of Oxford is home to an extensive library system including both new and ancient ones. From the iconic Radcliffe Camera to the touristy Old Bodleian, to the various college libraries, where most students like to put in late nights of work, Oxford has plenty of study spots as the city boasts a total of over a hundred libraries. It is definitely arduous to choose just one out of the myriad of libraries at Oxford, almost like choosing a favourite book, as they all have their own special qualities and atmospheres, and studying in each one is a distinct experience.

The Radcliffe Camera, popularly known as the RadCam, is a landmark widely recognised worldwide as a symbol of the University of Oxford. Its architectural grandeur and aesthetic appeal have garnered significant admiration from students and visitors alike. However, despite the RadCam’s popularity, my personal favourite in Oxford is the Taylor Institute Library, also known as the Taylorian. Although its exterior may not be as striking as the RadCam, the Taylorian’s interior is breathtaking and sure to leave a lasting impression on any visitor. 

Located on St. Giles Street, the best part of this library is that it shares a wall with the Ashmolean Museum. Once I have completed my work for the day, I often treat myself to a visit to the museum just next door. I love this library for its proximity to the city centre as well. If you have ever been inside the Taylorian, you are definitely familiar with the main reading room, and you may have even done some studying in that space. The primary reading room at the Taylorian features an atmosphere that is both beautiful and comfortable. The grand chandeliers drench the room in a warm amber glow and help to create an atmosphere that is conducive to focus on academic work. The tables located on the balcony provide the best seating in the room. To get a glimpse of what it would have been like to be Belle from Beauty and the Beast, utilise the spiral staircase from within. From this vantage point, the view of the entire room is impeccable. I like to think that every library has a soul of its own, and where the RadCam imbues an intense and slightly chaotic ambient, the Taylorian feels more relaxed and less anxious.

I absolutely enjoy my study sessions in the main reading room, however, snagging one of those coveted balcony seats can be impossible. In those instances, a hidden gem at this library is the Voltaire room, located on a  lower floor. It gets wonderfully quiet, and the mint-green walls are a breath of fresh air from the deep brown theme of the main reading room. The Voltaire room is a good idea if the main room gets busy (as it often does).

As a student majoring in Applied Linguistics and undertaking research that frequently focuses on languages, I find that the information available at the Taylorian, a library dedicated to modern European literature and languages (other than English), is well attuned to my needs.

For all the many reasons mentioned above, the Taylorian remains one of my favourite libraries! The only aspect I wish would change about this library would be the timings. By 7 pm it is lights off so if you are someone who frequently burns the midnight oil, perhaps the Taylorian is not the best option, but it is definitely worth the visit! 
Tip: Once you finish up at the library, make sure to visit the Ashmolean and then grab a bite to eat at Najar’s Place, a Lebanese food cart with great wraps, opposite the Taylorian!

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