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The Oxford Fashion Gala: A stellar display of talent

Image Credit: Olivia Cho.

The evening of Wednesday 8th May brought a show that transcended the limitations of space and time in a beautiful portrayal of Oxford University’s talent. The Fashion Gala returned in a whirlwind of incredible designs, modelled by Oxford’s finest. We truly ascended in the lunar eclipse theme, which brought a shower of metallic, shimmering looks from the guests. This high fashion dress code was only elevated by the stunning setting of the Randolph Hotel, and we were taken on a voyage of the university’s creativity. 

The night began with a nuanced runway adorning the gala’s sponsor, Tom’s Trunks. The crossover between the casual beach look and the science fiction style makeup created an eclectic mix that set the bar high for the rest of the evening. The ability to secure such a brand for sponsorship speaks volumes about the scale of this event

Following this runway, the guests enjoyed an exhilarating performance from Little Clarendon, with jazzy covers of the classics that got the audience ready for the incredible designs to come. After the swanky musical intermission, the ballroom was abuzz with excitement for the second runway. As everyone crowded around the runway, it became apparent that this was going to be the highlight of the night. As the first song began to play, the entire room collectively tensed as eager eyes searched for the first model to come out on the runway. The first model emerged in an all-white ensemble. The top was sheer white, complete with subtle ruching. The bottoms continued the theme, the fabric carefully gathered to create a plethora of folds cascading down.

As more models had their turn on the runway, there were several themes and pieces that spanned across several designs. Head and face coverings were heavily featured. The majority of the time, these accessories made the overall designs more interesting and elevated them to suit a high fashion runway. Another prominent overall theme was the use of sheer fabrics. Several designers played with these fabrics to create dresses and tops, creating an ethereal and whimsical display. With the theme being “A voyage into ascent”, it was interesting seeing the different designer’s interpretations of the themes. The theme was incorporated into even the makeup, with hues of blue and shimmer being heavily incorporated.

David, the talented president of the gala, was able to talk to us about his expectations for the night. Chuckling, he said that he had kept them very low to avoid disappointment, but breathed a sigh of relief that the gala ran so smoothly. When asked about the root of his interest in fashion, he talked about his final fashion piece at UAL, which sparked his desire to get involved in the fashion community at Oxford. By the time the call for committee positions was released for this year’s gala, he knew president would be the perfect role to get into! David’s modesty and joy throughout the show was inspiring to watch, and he did an excellent job as president. 

One big aspect of the gala’s success was the audience. With silver sparkles and dark colours prominently featured in everyone’s outfits, the celestial theme was executed to perfection. Guests spoke ecstatically of the gala and its designers, speaking of their highlights of the night. Some people who attended the event were finalists, and they did not regret taking time out of their busy schedules to be present at the gala. The vibrant display of creativity was great to witness according to onlookers. Some audience members also commented on their favourite designers. Designer Ocho’s designs were commonly praised for their distinctive silhouette and design.

All in all, the Oxford Fashion Gala was a major success from start to finish. It was a true testament to the creative talent that the university has to offer. While Oxford students are often praised for their intellect, it is clear that there is so much more to the community than academia. The gala was a beautiful display of the artistic scene that shines at Oxford.

The great outdoors: Oxford’s best green spaces

Image Credit: Ed Webster / CC BY 2.0 via Flickr

As the sun emerges from its miserable winter enclave, so do students from their rooms, shedding the weighted blankets and hot water bottles of the colder months to enjoy the sun. As we flock to revel in these warmer months, here are some of the best natural spaces around Oxford.

OXFORD’S FAVOURITES

Port Meadow

Port Meadow is a picturesque location year-round, forming a gazing ground for herds of free-roaming cows and horses. Even when the plains are flooded, the meadows retain their scenic beauty, with swans milling through the long rushes and Ophelia-esque pools of duckweed and algae along the walking path. Through the gate and along the walk, you’ll also find a looping trail passing by a copse of mossy trees and Jack by the Hedge flowers. 

The only caveat: if you do choose to have a picnic here, beware any inquisitive animals that may come passing by! My own snacks have stayed safe so far, although some of other meadow-enjoyers haven’t been quite so lucky. 

Oxford Botanic Gardens

Oxford’s Botanic Gardens offers a sumptuous range of flora, with over 5000 different species; it’s a peaceful retreat from the action of the city centre. From water lily glasshouses and rock gardens to a literary-themed section and various geographical collections, the Botanic Gardens have something for any taste. The main garden is open from 10 am until 5 pm daily, with free entry for students if you show your Bod Card. 

COLLEGE CLASSICS

Christ Church Meadows

Well known to students and tourists alike, Christ Church Meadows remains an iconic and reliable escape to the outdoors. The walk along the river or around the field makes for an easy break from being cooped up in the library – it’s open in daylight hours throughout the year, granting ample time to let the sun sink in. 

Bounded by the rivers Cherwell and Isis, the meadows are also perfect for watching boats row by, with Boat House Island only a short walk away. For your own peace of mind, though, I would suggest finding a quieter path to walk on during Torpids season. 

Fellows’ Garden, Merton College

Boasting a dedicated team of gardeners, Merton College’s Fellows’ Garden is a delight in all seasons – in spring, the lawns are lined with irises, almond trees, forget-me-nots and snowdrops, among many others. Robins and magpies hop their way through the bushes, and squirrels scamper their way around arching tree trunks. 

While the lawn in the garden has ample space to sit and spread out a picnic blanket, the iconic Tolkien’s Table also offers stone benches to rest on, overlooking the garden on one side, and Christ Church Meadows on the other. A short walk away, on the other side of Merton, you’ll also find the sakura, daffodils and tulips in Grove, with benches dotted around to study, or simply indulge in the view. 

Addison’s Walk, Magdalen College

Perhaps overshadowed by the Deer Park, this quaint, wooded walk around the back of the college is a lovely immersion in the beauty of nature. With various sitting spots, some carved from old tree trunks, dotting the way, it’s excellently suited for a slow amble along the river and through the trees. All varieties of flowers, from harebell and heather, line the path, across which the occasional heron or mallard might swoop. 

HIDDEN TREASURES

Iffley Lock

Right by the canal, Iffley Lock was initially built as a weir to prevent flooding and ease the process of navigating the river. While it still serves this function now, it’s also a picturesque location of willows and stone bridges, perfect for a river-side wander. If you venture slightly further towards the highway strip, you’ll also find a gorgeous heath filled with shrubs and blossoming hawthorn – if you don’t mind the occasional rush of cars passing by, it’s a beautiful spot for picnics, flower-picking, and frolicking galore.

Wytham Woods

A prime bird-watching location for all avian enthusiasts, Wytham (pronounced why-tum) Woods is one of the most researched areas of woodland globally. When you step here, you’ll find yourself steeped in a long-abiding natural history: areas of the woods can be dated back to the last Ice Age. Spanning over 1000 acres, Wytham promises much to explore.

Bagley Wood

Saving what is, in my opinion, the best for last, any burden that the half hour bus trip from the city centre to Bagley Wood poses is dwarfed by the beauty and serenity of the space. Even on a misty, clouded morning, the nature reserve is full of whimsy: from the hanging bird feeders adorning the sides of tree trunks, to the abundance of bluebell patches and moss. 

For those who delight in the quiet procession of life around them, Bagley Wood is also home to snails, slugs, frogs, and all assortments of little creatures, along with the occasional woodpecker and owl amongst the steady chirping of morning birds. 

Amidst all the stress of tutorials, collections, and exams, it’s often easy to forget the world outside of Oxford’s academic halls. Hopefully, these suggestions can act as some guidance for your journey during Trinity to venture into the beautiful natural spaces around us – and maybe find some more of your own too!

Film around the world: Germany’s The Lives of Others

Image credit: CC by 3.0, Rainer Mittelstädt via Wikimedia Commons

I’m sure that those of us who studied A-Level German back in the day (not so long ago, if you’re a first-year reading this) will be familiar with Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck’s 2006 film The Lives of Others (or Das Leben der Anderen, to give it its German title). Arguably one of Germany’s internationally best-known films of recent years, thanks largely to its ‘Best Foreign Language Film of the Year’ Oscars win, Donnersmarck crafts its narrative to shine a light on one of the German Democratic Republic’s most notorious government departments: the Ministry of State Security, or the ‘Stasi’ for short.

The Lives of Others centres around Gerd Wiesler, a fictional Stasi officer tasked with monitoring the behaviour of a potentially dissident playwright and his partner. Donnersmarck uncovers the truly sinister nature of the former regime, not by concentrating solely on the barbaric techniques employed by the Stasi (though there is plenty of that within the narrative too), but by turning the film into a heart-wrenching character study. The Lives of Others brilliantly examines its repressed and morally ambiguous protagonist, who, despite his position of relative power, suffers considerably throughout the film. His story depicts the consequences of a life lived under an authoritarian regime. Wiesler is a profoundly lonely man, acting – in a sense – as a metaphor for East Germany’s near-complete isolation from Western Europe. He can only experience love and cultural enlightenment passively – through the tinny sound from a hidden microphone, by spying on a loving couple from afar with a pair of government-issue binoculars – with the physical distance between himself and those he grows fond of becoming painfully clear to the viewer. It is only through his existence as the protagonist of the film that he is humanised at all. The ambivalence and hints of individualism that Donnersmarck bestows upon him stand in stark contrast to the anonymisation that Wiesler is subjected to in his role as an intelligence officer. Donnersmarck does not only address this through the narrative progression, but also by utilising the film’s visuals. Wiesler physically blends into his surroundings frequently, often barely standing out amongst the dreary greys and browns of Donnersmarck’s expertly composed shots. He is powerless to truly break free from the world that he lives in, completely unable to experience a life outside of the confines of the GDR.

Of course, there is very little internationalism to speak of within the universe of the film. As is the case with many authoritarian governments (take North Korea’s recent censoring of the completely harmless Alan Titchmarsh’s jeans as an example), media, news, and culture that came from outside of the regime was heavily restricted or outright banned. Although the GDR was practically impenetrable from the inside out, nowadays international audiences are able to see clearly into what the regime once was thanks to, among other sources, films like The Lives of Others and Good Bye, Lenin!, another German A-Level favourite. To make history more accessible is invaluable, especially if it inspires the audience to look beyond the fictional sphere into reality. As the saying goes, knowledge is power, and by having access to such insights into the past, we should be able to learn from it and avoid repeating our mistakes in the future.

Having observed the struggles of the characters of The Lives of Others, it is impossible not to treasure our unrestricted access to international culture and freedom of expression when compared to the totalitarianism of life within the former German Democratic Republic. It is because of this freedom that we can enjoy and learn from films such as this, which can provide us with awareness of, to return to the title, the lives of others who have lived (and may continue to live) so differently to the way that we do today.

MI5 warns Oxford University of security threat

N Chadwick / CC BY-SA 2.0 via Geograph

In a recent briefing, MI5 has warned that foreign states are targeting UK universities, including Oxford University, which jeopardises national security. The briefing comes after a government review of security threats found in higher education. 

The chief executive of the National Cyber Security Center, Felicity Oswald, and MI5 General Director Ken McCallum announced that MI5 will consult universities on measures to secure sensitive information.

Though the announcement did not name any countries of interest, it follows from last year’s warning of China’s possible influence in university research programs.

Following the announcement, new measures were introduced including increasing the transparency of research funding, increasing stringency of university personnel given clearance, and offering government funding for universities to improve internal security capabilities. Researchers and university staff coming to the UK from nations like China must also undergo lengthy security-clearing when applying for a university-related visa, particularly those working in STEM fields.

This is because STEM research fields are particularly vulnerable to espionage, MI5 warns. MI5 fears new research could be fielded by states in order to bolster their own economic and military aims. Intellectual property on new technology, chemicals, and medicine are of special concern. MI5 worries the UK’s vanguard research may be leaked via compromised university staff, opaque partnerships, and cyber-attacks on universities. 

Universities, including Oxford and the Russell Group, have a longstanding partnership with MI5 mitigating national security risks that come from leaked breakthroughs in the UK. The chief executive of Universities UK, Tim Bradwaw, has said: “Russell Group universities take their national security responsibilities incredibly seriously and already work closely with government and the intelligence community to help protect UK breakthroughs in fields like AI, which are important to our national interest.” 

SU provides updates on Transformation Period

Image Credit: James Morrell

The Oxford Student Union (SU) has released further details on the 12-month transformation period, which it entered late in March, denying reports of a “closure” or “shutdown”. However, it is still unclear which “essential” services the SU will continue to offer over the course of its reduced operation.

The SU is due, over the course of the transformation period, to focus on what it deems as “essential” activities for the rest of this academic year. These include facilitating student-led campaigns, operating the Student Advice Service, securing welfare provisions to colleges and representing students on University and college committees.

The Student Council will be replaced by a consultative body which will allow student voices to be heard during the transformation planning. The SU also plans on consulting student opinions through JCRs, MCRs and Campaign Co-Chairs as well as by holding an “all-student meeting” in seventh week of Trinity term. The SU wrote on its website that “all other student facing activities and projects will cease for the duration of the Transformation Period”, but has not given more detail about exactly which activities are concerned. 

The SU Advice Centre has been closed to new casework since 1st May. The SU considers the centre to be “an essential service”, and “aim[s] to get it back up and running as soon as possible”. The SU will also continue to sell welfare products to colleges and has committed to providing student representation for the University’s access and participation plan.

The Sabbatical team will be cut by half during the transformation period so there will only be the following positions in the 2024/2025 academic year: President, Vice-President UG Education and Access and Vice-President PG Education and Access. The SU states it wants to intensify “appropriate training and induction” and that “it would not be fair to bring six Sabbatical officers into an environment where they cannot be properly supported”. In the meantime, the SU acknowledges that students will not be represented on University and college committees not deemed as “important”.

The transformation committee, as publicised by the SU, will be co-chaired by Professor Martin Williams, the University’s Pro-Vice Chancellor for Education, and Ben Ward, an external trustee of the SU. Among the nine members of the transformation committee are two students: SU President Danial Hussain, and Chair of the Student Council Oluweseun Sowunmi. The committee has appointed Emilie Tapping, former CEO of Brookes Union, as its Change Director for the course of the period.

The Mermaid

Image Credits: 'The Little Mermaid' by Tuan Hoang Nguyen; CC BY 2.0

The mermaid is dying, and no one cares.
She does not belong here, here in the suburbs
Where council-mandated hedges block her from the sea.
She does not belong where houses must fit an aesthetic.
She does not belong where those in mansions spit on the poor,
Where they would not deign to spit on her, desperate for water.

The mermaid is drying out, and no one cares.
Her kelp-like hair turns to straw,
Her skin, now cold and dry, shrivels like a prune,
Her tail flip-flops next to a manicured garden,
Her gills gasp.
She loses control of her limbs; she is close to giving up.

The mermaid is gasping, and no one cares.
Stuck here in the suburbs
Surrounded by people who can’t understand what she is.
A man walks past, and scoffs at her vulnerability.
A kind woman pours the last of her Voss water on the mermaid’s gills.
Everyone else walks past, avoiding eye contact.

The mermaid is on death’s door, and no one cares.
Her tail has stopped convulsing, now.
Her gills have stopped screaming.
Her last thoughts are of her brethren,
All too far away to save her.
Her last word is a strangled sigh.

The mermaid is dead, and now they care.
They pretend her dried-out hair was beautiful,
Pretend to ignore how the air pressure mangled her face.
Eventually, they say, “she was only a fish – look at her fins and scales,”
And the corpse of the mermaid is taken to the fishmonger,
Destined to be this week’s produce.

Making Art in the Age of Generative AI

Théâtre d’Opéra spatial Image Credit: Public Domain

When they told us that AI is coming for people’s jobs, most of us didn’t think that they were talking about artists. Our popular imaginings of artificially intelligent futures often seem to bracket the work of artists as somehow beyond the cold capacities of clever machines. Could AI handle the manual, administrative, and even strategic aspects of human endeavor? Perhaps. Creativity and aesthetic sensitivity, however, were presumed by many to be unprogrammable, too reliant upon emotion and the subtleties of lived experience. 

This popular tendency in viewing art and those who make it as exceptionally human is likely a kind of cultural hangover from the aesthetic theories of the nineteenth century—in which art, especially poetry and painting, were widely proposed to be the self-expression of an extraordinary individual, a genius with a uniquely profound or sensitive subjectivity. Many of our culture’s paradigmatic symbols of artistic psychology, from the Vincent Van Gogh to Jim Morrison, have relied heavily on this trope of spiritual, cultural, and, frequently, tragic heroism. 

All of these assumptions have been put to the test over the course of the past two years, as innovations in AI have become increasingly accessible masses and an integral facet of public discourse, especially with respect to education and the ethics of things like celebrity ‘deep fakes’. 

At the centre of all this is, of course, a particular sub-category of artificial intelligence known as generative AI —the kind of technology famously responsible for everything ranging from uncanny portraits with extra fingers, your favourite popstar’s robot-sounding cover of a song from the 1950s, and, lest we forget, eerily corporate-coded essays from undergrads who haven’t done their reading.  

Well-known generative AI interfaces like Chat-GPT, Dall-E, Bard, and Amper all fall under the umbrella of generative AI. Trained on large data sets of text, images, and audio, these systems are capable of generating original images, bodies of texts, and sonic configurations from preexisting materials. While the interfaces easily available for public usage, like Chat-GPT and DALL-E, very rarely produce anything of a quality high enough to raise the eyebrows of human artists, more sophisticated interfaces have produced works of considerable aesthetic merit. 

The early alarm bells blared in September of 2022, when artist Jason M. Allen took home first place and $300 cash prize in the ‘digital arts/digitally manipulated photography’ division at the Colorado State Fair Fine Arts Competition for his piece ‘Théâtre D’Opéra Spatial’. The image is an epic scene from a galactic royal court in a style somewhat evocative of nineteenth-century academicism, looking almost as though Sir Lawrence Alma Tadema had painted a scene from ‘Dune’. 

However, in the days following Allen’s big win, news broke that image had been generated using Midjourney, a generative AI system that produces incredibly detailed and often hyper-realistic images from written prompts in a manner similar to DALL-E. The program might be best known for its viral 2023 image of Pope Francis sporting an exaggerated, rapper-style puffer jacket. Prominent voices from the art world and mainstream media alike sounded off about Allen’s win, triggering an initial flurry of quasi-philosophical questioning regarding the nature of art in the age of AI. 

So much of this public discussion around AI and the arts has revolved around questions of authorship and representation. Can Jason Allen truly claim artistic responsibility for ‘Théátre D’Opera’? What about AI art generators trained on works by other human artists? Could this be considered a form of plagiarism? In the vein of representation, how should we be handling situations in which systems seem to have problematic biases in how they depict certain people or particular groups of people, as in the case of Megan Fox’s complaints about AI-generated images of her being excessively sexualised? While all undoubtedly legitimate and incredibly important questions to answer, a critical dilemma that seems consistently absent from this vibrant public discourse is that of artistic practice and how it might be altered or even endangered by the increasingly sophisticated abilities of generative AI.

Even the famously antiquated William Morris – who spent so much of his career trying to reclaim the dignity of artistic labour through the reviving of mediaeval design methods, made discerning use of new technologies in his printing and textile practices – granted that said technologies could be implemented without threatening the integrity of the art’s quality or the labour involved in making it. Therefore, the question clearly remains: how might recent developments in generative AI and the demands of art coexist? 

I spoke with Maggie Mustaklem, a doctoral researcher at the Oxford Internet Institute. Her current project, entitled ‘Design Interrupted’, examines the role that AI is increasingly playing in the artistic brainstorming process, particularly with respect to how designers and architects draw inspiration from things they find in the AI-curated feeds of Pinterest and Instagram. Unlike many of the tech-savvy intellectuals who have tended to chime in on this issue, Mustaklem has actually worked in the arts as a knitwear designer, and is well-aware of the expertise such work demands. 

She is resistant to the alarmism that pervades much of the popular discussion mentioned above. ‘I think that the scale and reach of generative AI in creative industries is often overblown’, Mustaklem notes. ‘My research focuses on the concept stage of the design process, where designers often pull images from the web for inspiration to present concepts to clients. Gen AI is well suited to assist with this task, and many are starting to experiment with it. However, during my research I conducted workshops with 15 design studios in London and Berlin. All of them were experimenting with gen. AI, but none were using gen AI images to present concepts to clients. It is becoming a tool in the tool kit, but not one that has yet to demonstrably alter the design process’. 

This relatively modest impact of generative AI on the concrete practice of the arts is, according to Mustaklem, one of the most common misconceptions floating around this issue at the moment. Like nearly every other sector of work, it seems that the creative industries have undoubtedly experienced increasing interest in the new possibilities presented by generative AI  However, ‘Statistics on job replacement and efficiency’, she notes, ‘often fail to consider points like how much of designing knitwear, or any product, is tangible and embodied, requiring localised skills and experience’. 

‘I think new media and technology needs to be considered within the ecosystems it will disrupt,’ Mustaklem goes on to note, ‘A few years ago we thought 3D printers would replace overseas knitwear factories. Even though there’s some really exciting things happening with 3D printing, most knitwear is still produced overseas. Photography didn’t replace painting, but it did change painting. Gen AI will transform creative industries but it is unlikely to reshape them into something entirely different’. 

Some artists have already begun to hint at what this ‘entirely different’ future for the arts might look like. While Mustaklem has design in mind, her prediction about the reconfiguration (rather than elimination) of traditional artistic practice also seems to hold for the so-called ‘fine arts,’ like painting and creative writing. 

An especially exciting example of this reconfiguration in the world of literature is the magazine Heavy Traffic. A partial product of the pandemic-spawned ‘Dimes Square’ art and intellectual scene in New York City, the magazine has become a burgeoning touchstone of the American literary avant-garde. Distinct from Mustaklem’s vision of AI as a kind of collaborative design or conceptualising tool, writers publishing with Heavy Traffic present a more apophatic path for grappling with AI’s ability to mimic human creativity. 

In an interview with ‘Dazed’, editor Patrick McGraw describes the magazine’s signature style as ‘shizzed out gibberish’, citing our culture’s AI-instigated shifting relationship to language as prompt for taking art where computers trained on patterns might have a difficult time following—poetic disruption and instability. As implied by McGraw’s colourful description, the writing in Heavy Traffic is characterised by a jarring, aggressively chaotic tone and even borderline incomprehensibility. 

In some respects, a move like this is akin to how painters reacted in the wake photography. No longer needed as a medium for capturing visual reality, the impressionists through to the cubists and abstract expressionists sought to capture what photography could not—subjective sensation, perspective, and pure form. 

Whether any of the above methods of grappling with the intersection of art and artificial intelligence can or should sustain our artistic needs into what we can fairly say will be a tech-driven future is by no means evident. However, they are a reminder that ‘human art’ and practice are by no means under existential threat. While the great nineteenth-century myth of singular artistic genius might well wither away in the wake of generative AI, the concrete work of the artist seems entirely capable of adapting for the time being.

Freida Toranzo Jaeger’s Prophetic Glitter

Image Credit: Madeleine Jacob

Freida Toranzo Jaeger names her paintings like items in a manifesto: Extinction is the price we pay for our existence (2023), Open your heart because everything will change (2023), For new futures we need new beginnings (2022), Create to Destroy, Destroy to Create / On Taste and Poetry. Fuego (2019). Across the exhibition, Jaeger’s oil paintings are hinged together as sculptural installations. They stand as columns or hang from the ceiling. Four are tiny mechanical pyramids, opening and closing intermittently like automated origami fortune-tellers. Jaeger hopes her hinged paintings recall the foldable triptych altarpieces European missionaries carried across colonial Central America (Jaeger is Mexican and currently resident in Mexico City). 

Thomas Gainsborough’s painting Mr and Mrs Andrews (1750) embeds its subjects in the landscape they own; the blank canvas where a baby could be painted is the unpainted patch of futurity nestled in Mrs Andrews’ skirt. And like Gainsborough, Jaeger puts the images of the future which the powerful invest in (today, the sleek space-age minimality of Elon Musk’s private space exploration company, Space X) in conversation with the Garden of Eden’s idyllic space-time. Jaeger’s dexterous selection of painterly approaches includes a neo-expressionist graffito line (that seems to be adopted from her Hamburg tutor, Jutta Koether) as well as flat, caricatured Eves snatched from fourteenth-century European painting and returned to us in the guise of Mexican muralism. 

The kitsch, cute and reconfigurable in Jaeger’s work reframes the bloody history of European oil painting – so long the lapdog of the rich and powerful. Jaeger’s heart-shaped paintings, vibrant threaded bows and bedazzled celestial landscapes play on an impulse to crush the cute and critique the insipid. In Cybertruck (2020), an arbour of flat, painterly flowers adorns a car interior. Visible through the car window is a white strip painted with a minute fire. Lines of sgraffito slice through the white to produce a shattered effect. The painting’s title and this shattered centre recall the 2019 Tesla expo, where Franz von Holzhausen threw a ball bearing at the unveiled Cybertruck’s ‘Armour Glass’ shatterproof windows only to have the glass splinter. By recalling the meme-able moment, Jaeger invokes thousands of words worth of internet discourse, which has already made the ironic event into a tiny, recognisable emblem. 

The paintings’ small fires are responsible for much of the allusive work: the fire of love, the home fires, the spark of the carburetor engine and the forest fires, which slide in and out of reality every record-breaking hot summer. In Cybertruck, Jaeger marks the fractured centre with the emblem of a tiny fire. Life Fears (2019) depicts a Pomeranian dog recoiling from flames on a plush red passenger seat. Jaeger is depicting our own half-life on the brink of climate breakdown. She seems to be satirising the rhetoric of techno-futurist billionaires and the like, who conceal their politics in the aesthetics of prophecy. “I don’t ascribe to any political party or economic model that currently exists,” tweeted Musk’s ex-partner, musician Grimes in 2022.  

Jaeger concentrates on interiors: dashboards, vulvas, human organs, the garden of Eden and space-stations. The lungs of The powerful return of cosmic pessimism (2023) are painted onto a disk hanging low in the hinged prism-like diptych. Their pale snaking bronchi lead up to the red threads which suspend this smaller canvas in the centre of the two adjoining it. There is a synergy between the thread-like lung interior and the taut, twisted, looping threads which just touch it as they rupture the canvas. At this point of juncture Jaeger translates a stylised symbol into the complex, tactile material of the thread. The taut thread, which suspends the lungs, reminds us that our bodies cannot be disentangled from the space they occupy. After all, the easy, virtual rearrangement of images – the glimpses of heaven and hell reflected in the windows and wing mirrors of Deep adaptation on Audi Aicon 2020 costume design by H. Memling (2019) – finds its limit in the embodied, breathing body.  

Jaeger’s relationship to the tradition of Mexican muralism – most widely recognised as the allegorical narrative wall-paintings by Diego Rivera – can’t quite be called a debt: Jaeger is conscious of the manual labour, political allegory and craft practices that tradition seeks to depict (although she chooses the traditionally girly or Latina pastimes of embroidery and rhinestoning instead). Yet Jaeger’s subject isn’t straightforwardly a political history of Latin America. Instead, she paints us a fiction of the future: a flattened world where delicate flowers, heart and lungs, space, as well as Adam and Eve, all have the solid, shiny surfaces of a Tesla’s interior. The endlessly customisable interior is beautiful and tactile, but there is only space for one or two on the inside.  

Institute accused of ‘eugenics on steroids’ shut down by Oxford University

Image Credits: Cyril Malik

The Future of Humanity Institute (FHI) at Oxford University was shut down on April 16 after 19 years of research and operation. Research carried out by FHI included developing controversial ethical theories such as effective altruism and ‘longtermism’. 

Professor Nick Bostrom, founder of FHI, traced its closure to “administrative headwinds” from the University and, in particular the Faculty of Philosophy, outlining a “pressure to conform”. A former Senior Research Fellow at the Institute, Anders Sanberg, similarly maintained that FHI was “affected by a gradual suffocation by Faculty bureaucracy.”  

The work carried out by the Institute is notably intertwined with the philosophy of ‘longtermism’, which “refers to a set of ethical views concerned with protecting and improving the long-run future.”. Notable benefactors of the FHI include Elon Musk, who donated £1 million in 2015 to fund research about artificial intelligence, and who considers longtermism a “close match” to his own philosophy.     

The Future of Humanity’s website has published a statement saying that its fundraising and hiring were frozen in 2020 and at the end of last year, the Faculty of Philosophy decided not to renew staff contracts. Its final report also stated : “We did not invest enough in university politics and sociality to form a long-term stable relationship with our faculty.” 

Throughout the Institute’s lifetime there have been several instances of controversy relating to the organisation’s framework. 15 months ago, Bostrom was involved in a scandal that revealed racist comments he had made in an email from 1996. Despite an issued apology, the Institute received backlash.

Émile Torres, a philosopher who specialises in existential threats, denounced the work of the FHI, equating it to a “noxious ideology” and “eugenics on steroids.” They also underscored the many scandals associated with effective altruism and ‘longtermism’. A few months before the Bostrom controversy, Sam Bankman-Fried was equally detained for a multibillion-dollar fraud. Bankman-Fried was a prominent supporter of effective altruism as well as a friend of William MacAskill, who was closely linked to FHI.   

Irrespective of its closure, the Institute says “made a series of research contributions that helped change our conversation about the future” and promises that “FHI alumni will continue to research [these] questions both within Oxford and at other places around the world.” 

A spokesperson from the University of Oxford told Cherwell: “Oxford University has taken the difficult decision to close the Future of Humanity Institute (a research centre in the Faculty of Philosophy). The Institute has made an important contribution to the study of the future of humanity, for which we would like to thank and recognise the research team.”

Film around the world: Italy’s Suspiria

Image credits: deepskyobject, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The first time I heard about Suspiria, I was nine and my babysitter was telling me I couldn’t watch it, shouldn’t even – that it was the most terrifying film she’d ever seen. Years later, when I finally watched it, I was surprised to find myself describing it to a friend as a “visual orgasm”. Revisiting it now, I would have to say that description still holds true. If you come to Suspiria for pure terror, that’s not what you’ll get. It’s more a creeping kind of unease, generated by its absurd and unsettling comedy. The primary colours contribute to this too – they bathe the film in an LSD-like delirium and leave you in a William Blake fever dream. Suspiria exists in its own realm, ungraspable and hypnotic.

You are never quite allowed into Suspiria. Dubbed voices and shots that cut just before a corner is turned keep you one second behind the characters, slightly and subtly disconnected. Their blank faces and marionette movements add to the feeling that there isn’t a plot to follow, but rather a sequence of visual experiments that come to no solution. The set design is impeccable, with buildings that are Wes Anderson in their artificiality but Mattise in their saturation. Every colour is at its most intense and perfect. There is a red which must be the mother of all other reds. 

Other than its domineering colour palette, Suspiria is in a weird, indefinite, liminal space; and not just due to its uncanny sets. It’s neither purely horror nor comedy, neither plot-driven nor plotless, the characters are neither empty nor wholly realistic. The closest comparison I can make isn’t even to something real – it’s to the idea of an art-house pantomime viewed by a person on acid – and if that’s the comparison I’m reaching for, it certainly cements its status as something truly unique. 

It was made at a time when it was fashionable for Italian horror movies to use ‘easy listening’ music as a counterpoint to their most violent scenes; the elevator music that would have been playing in The Shining’s lift pre-bloodbath. The difference with Suspiria is that its music box refrain of chimes is suffocated by the demonic voice that whisper-sings along to them, and occasional tabla beats mix with this to create a supernatural, ritual feeling in the score. The tightrope walk of disconnecting and blending between visuals and audio is key to the film’s effectiveness. Its opening scene becomes a masterpiece as the music box and rainstorm amalgamate into a suffocating cacophony, cutting rapidly back and forth into silence depending on whose perspective we assume. The score is oddly diegetic – we know on a certain level that the characters cannot hear it, and yet it can clearly see them. As they approach danger, the menacing chants begin to drown out the incongruous reassurance of the chimes, sending them a warning that they almost seem to hear but never listen to.

One of the reasons Suspiria is so difficult to write about is because of this liminal and enigmatic nature. Its elements meld and yet do not merge, infusing it with dread. Director Dario Argento doesn’t grant us the comfort of a meaningful plot and uses the ‘story’ more as a line on which to hang his striking tableaux and vignettes. When asked if this film has a ‘message’, I would struggle to answer. Possibly, I could tenuously claim it is about class, or that it is feminist, or anti-dictatorship. In reality, I could only say with conviction that it is about beauty. It’s about decay and the allure of that decay. 

The film’s message must be an aesthetic one, as it is the senses that are fed more than the conscience. It’s decadent and immoral, a “visual orgasm” in which we look for meaning because it seems gluttonous to enjoy without one. But Suspiria remains a sensory feast that defies easy interpretation, forcing viewers to revel in its decadence without the crutch of comprehension. It’s a testament to the visceral power of cinema, the meaning is in its sensations and not in its rationalisation. So, take a deep breath, and allow Suspiria to happen to you.