Tuesday 14th October 2025
Blog Page 1720

Fashion Feminism?

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Bath. The famous site of the Roman baths, Jane Austen’s setting for many of her novels, and more importantly the residence of the one and only Manolo Blahnik. Over Easter I went to ‘Bath in Fashion’- Bath’s week-long celebration of Fashion- to see Amanda Wakeley’s show transferred from London as the event’s first inaugural designer.

When I stumbled across the event in the newspaper I didn’t hesitate. A chance to spend an afternoon in one of my favourite cities boasting beautiful architecture and all my high street favourites and quirky boutiques, combined with Amanda Wakeley’s Spring/Summer collection sounded pretty perfect to me (the glass of real champagne included in the £15 ticket price was just an added bonus…).

So, did Bath’s Fashion Week live up to its surroundings? Wakeley’s collection showcased thirty-nine pieces transferred from London Fashion Week that exuded subtle glamour and gentle movement. In the Q and A which followed the show she said that for evening wear she wanted to ’empower’ a woman, not in the ‘shoulder pads 80s way’, but just ‘to have more confidence in life’. She said that every woman should be able to feel like a ‘goddess’, and that her use of Scuba jersey helps to ‘skim over and smooth’ a woman’s ‘less beautiful parts’.

It all sounds a bit Gok Wan, but a ‘goddess’ was certainly what we were presented with. There was a great sense of draping of the body, and the bright jewel colours such as turquoise, gold, and orange only added to this— aspects only fitting for a show taking place in Bath, synonymous with Rome, and the toga.

Both maxi and mini dresses seemed to glide and wrap around the body, in a way that celebrated the female form. This was another thing that Wakeley underlined in the Q and A when asked about her approach to dressing those in the public eye, such as Demi Moore and more recently the Duchess of Cambridge. She said that you shouldn’t just take into account the view of a woman from the front or back but also consider the way the clothes move around the whole body; something which is vital for those under the constant glare and judgement of the camera.

However, the focus wasn’t just on the famous. One photographer sniped looking at the beautifully coiffered and pampered female audience ‘…so these are the ladies that lunch’, and I suppose many in the crowd could be placed under this banner, but my mother kindly corrected him ‘No, ladies that work’. They may look glamorous and as if the only care in their world is whether Waitrose will have run out of the salted quail’s eggs, but like Amanda Wakeley herself, these women were mostly those who work hard but manage to look glamorous at the same time.

The room was full of ambition, and this was reflected by the strong female presence not just on the runway but at every stage. Wakeley was interviewed by the successful Grazia Fashion Editor, Paula Reed, and there were frequent mentions to Wakeley’s right-hand woman, Bridget Bowen. Let down by her ex-husband and then the ‘ruthless’ man her husband sold his share (and the brand name) to, Wakeley, having now managed to build the business back up, runs a rather female affair.

According to Wakeley living in a man’s world is difficult, especially where women seem to be judged on their appearance at every turn, and it seems she has hit the nail on the head. The audience fell in love not just with the clothes but with the ideology behind them. It seems that these days a successful woman is not one who just succeeds in the work place and has a career as well as balancing a family, but one who does all that while doing their best Beyoncé impression. So yes, they may look like ‘ladies that lunch’ but really they are women who not only work hard, but look, and more importantly feel, beautiful too.

So the collection certainly wasn’t groundbreaking, and it was definitely aimed at the ‘woman’ rather than the ‘girl’ — but I still found myself marvelling at the brilliant simplicity of the designs, and even the message that was conveyed. Wakeley demonstrates that there is no shame in a woman wanting to look good, as well as wanting to be taken seriously in the workplace. You don’t have to make a choice between airhead and career woman. In fact, feeling beautiful can bring about amazing results, as Wakeley showed in her battle against all the odds to get her very successful business back on track.

Lauri Saksa in London

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Celtic Waters

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A new kind of torture?

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Earlier this week, the European Court of Human Rights sanctioned the extradition of five terror suspects to the US, with one individual remaining under review. The suspects include Babar Ahmed, the longest detained British national without a trial since the CPS decided that he could not be prosecuted: he awaits extradition on charges of providing material support to terrorists, forming plots with US citizens and money laundering. Syed Ahsan faces the same charges, whilst Adel Abdul Bray and Khaled Al-Fawn, past aides to Osama bin Laden, are accused of promoting violent Jihad. The most infamous, however, is Abu Hamza, the radical Muslim cleric convicted and jailed in the UK for inciting racial hatred and soliciting murder.

These guys are a pretty nasty bunch. The ‘gay cure’ scandal that broke this week revealed a troubling streak of contempt for liberal values, but that shrinks to the level of schoolyard name-calling compared to these five; they told people to go out and kill others for enjoying freedoms that we take for granted. For students who have grown up surrounded by tolerant debate, it’s hard to picture the kind of mentality in which it makes sense to go out and kill people for some moral infraction: it’s a terrifying mindset that certainly does warrant a judicial response.

Yet the decision in Strasbourg to turn down the appeal of these men against their extradition is unsettling. Their destination will likely be the Administrative Maximum Facility in Florence, Colorado, also known as the “Supermax” prison. Home to 360 inmates, the prison holds those criminals deemed the most dangerous in the US: convicted terrorists; gangsters; militant anti-government extremists.

The actions of these suspects were appalling, whether potential or realised, but the prison to which they are being sent is enough to make one uncomfortable. Inmates are held in solitary confinement for 23 hours a day, with an hour to exercise, and are observed for a full 24. Each cell is 7ft x 12ft, with a partially blocked window, and contains a shower, toilet, writing desk and a mirror. Compared with some prisons, these living conditions seem comfortable: inmates even have limited access to television. But what marks the Supermax out is the isolation of the prisoners – solitary confinement so prolonged that it often leaves inmates with severe mental health problems, as criminologist Dr Sharon Shahev at the LSE found. Everything is done inside the cell, with contact with other human beings largely restricted to staff members. The long sentences which these men face in Supermax arguably amount to torture.

It goes without saying that punishment, ultimately the bedrock of our judicial system, is never going to be pleasant. That said, the decision of the European Court of Human Rights is misguided. These men once extradited to the US will there face a punishment more extreme than anywhere in Europe, and we have to draw a line in the sand somewhere to safeguard our civil liberties, even for those who claim to reject them. Abu Hamza is guilty of provoking terrible racial hatred and is clearly a threat to British society, but he and the other convicted men deserve more than to spend the rest of their lives in a hell that will drive at least a few of them to insanity. If even the ECHR, long derided by the right as a bunch of watery liberals, is willing to make us accessories to a whole new kind of judicial torture, then these are dark times indeed.

Review: Delilah – 2-4am Mixtape

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At just 21, Paloma Stoecker, stage name Delilah, has had a deceptively long musical career. After signing with Atlantic Records at the age of just 17, Delilah toured with artists such as Maverick Sabre and Chase and Status as well as co-writing the song ‘Time’ with the latter. Her solo work has, therefore, been a long time in the gestation but judging from 2–4am, it would seem that the wait has been worthwhile.

Delilah’s music has its roots in dance and hip–hop but is, at heart, song–led, melodic pop with a bewitching ambience of contemplative darkness. The songs on this mix–tape are wistful reflections on lost love and a character forming childhood which saw the death of her step-father in 2002. This is typified on opener, ‘Never Be Another’, with Stoecker singing ‘I can’t stand by, live a lie with you / ‘cause there’ll never be another one’ to a backdrop of brooding, oscillating synths and an insistent handclap beat. 

The highlight of 2–4am is Joe Goddard’s remix of ‘Love You So’, which chops up the verses but keeps the same infectious chorus of the original, producing a pleasing mix of angular and smooth soundscapes. Other stand–out tracks include the more recently penned ‘21’, on which Delilah reveals a vulnerability which suggests that there are multiple dimensions to her song–writing ability. 2–4 am is a fantastic introduction to what could be a very exciting career and whets the appetite perfectly ahead of the release of Delilah’s full debut, From the Roots Up, setto be released in the summer.

The 2–4am mix-tape is available to download for free from http://www.delilahofficial.co.uk/2012/. Delilah will be playing at the O2 Academy on Tuesday 17th of April with tickets available from http://www.o2academyoxford.co.uk/.

Review: Chromatics – Kill For Love

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Fittingly, Chromatics’ sumptuous new LP opens with a sultry reconstruction of Neil Young’s 1976 classic, ‘Hey Hey, My My (Into The Black)’, a track that considers the merits of artistic reinvention. Since their formation over a decade ago, Chromatics have abandoned their lo-fi ‘noise-rock’ approach & developed a mature, brooding brand of synth-pop. ‘Kill for Love’ is a mesmeric realization of their vision – a 90-minute journey through a film-noir dreamscape.

Whilst the LP’s 17-track length initially seems daunting, standout tracks are sprinkled lavishly throughout. The title track is an energetic pop single, ‘Running From the Sun’ is an 80’s throwback featuring auto-tuned male vocals reminiscent of Bon Iver, and ‘Broken Mirrors’ is a sparse, moody seven-minute instrumental. ‘There’s a Light out on the Horizon’ is particularly captivating. It is a sparse arrangement, led by a futuristic synth line & featuring only one brief line of human dialogue – a mysterious answer-machine message from a worried (ex?) lover. The message, a robotic voice informs us, is deleted.

Perhaps inevitably for a record of this length, some tracks fail to scale these heights. For example, one can’t help but feel that ‘These Streets Will Never Look the Same’ would benefit being just a few minutes shorter. Indeed, the album closer (‘No Escape’) feels rather anticlimactic – a laboured fourteen minutes of redundant noise.

Despite these shortcomings, the Portland four-piece should be delighted with their efforts. Like Neil Young, they have found success by taking their music in a daring new direction. Perfecting the blueprint they set out in their previous LP, ‘Night Drive’, Chromatics have found their groove. On the opener, Ruth Radelet claims that it’s “better to burn out, than to fade away” – on this form, Chromatics are unlikely to do either.

4 STARS

Review: Kindness – World, You Need A Change of Mind/ at XOYO

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Kindness is the rather saccharine alias of Adam Bainbridge, a London and Berlin based musician who dropped his debut LP, World, You Need a Change of Mind, last week. Doffing his cap to influences as diverse as Neil Young, Diana Ross, and Ariel Pink, Bainbridge’s kooky collision of pop, funk, and disco toes the line between charming revivalist pastiche and hackneyed nonsensical naffness, and on occasion its proximity to the latter mars enjoyment of an otherwise effervescent and experimental first album.

Album opener ‘SEOD’ is a deliciously sprawling slice of mid—80s synthpop which gradually acquires languorous, lounge-jazz overtones, before dissolving into the discordant squeal of saxophones. Similarly, the basslines on funk-rock numbers such as ‘Cyan’ and ‘Doigsong’, which evoke early—70s Sly & the Family Stone, are so infectious they should come with a health warning. The same should go for ‘Gee Up’, which possesses a riff that would surely grace any ‘Frisco dancefloor circa 1973, but which, clocking in at less than two minutes, never seems properly developed and therefore smacks frustratingly of mid—album filler. Exasperating, too, are the ill-advised cover of Anita Dobson’s ‘Anyone Can Fall in Love’ (that’s the EastEnders theme tune to you and me) and the frequently banal lyricism on certain tracks such as ‘Bombastic’. Ultimately, here, the true winner is the quality of production, which coats each track, however inspired or insipid, with a glossy sheen and makes listening a pleasure.

Of course, it is exactly this standard of production which is almost impossible to recreate in a live performance. Wednesday night sees Cherwell dust off its flared jeans, back—comb its ‘fro, and head out to Shoreditch’s XOYO Club for Kindness’ swingin’ album launch party. Bainbridge emerges with a full band for his set, and makes use of a brace of female soul singers as he launches into the aforementioned ‘Cyan’. Thankfully, ‘Gee Up’ is given the extended airing its composition deserves, morphing into a five-minute jam. However, the lack of finesse in Kindness’ live sound sometimes reveals the foibles of the weaker tracks on World, You Need a Change of Mind.

It’s all good clean fun, though, and the band make up for the diminished quality of their songs with blithe exuberance, lots of questionable dance moves, and a fair bit of audience participation. Kindness appear to be the archetypal hit-and-miss band; for every soap-opera theme tune there is a Marvin-Gaye-style slab of afro-funk or a superb, sample—rich krautrock cover of Cerrone’s ‘Supernature’. Yet Bainbridge’s playful manipulation of musical styles and his willingness to take risks with his compositions if it brings greater reward are surely two qualities to be saluted in any aspiring musician.

Album: 3.5 STARS

Performance: 3 STARS

Disabled student to swim 15km for charity

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Georgia Gray, a first year at New College, plans to swim 15km to raise money for the charity Reading Quest. 

She will swim 600 laps of the Iffley Pool, which she has booked for 9 hours on April 30, though she commented ‘it hopefully won’t take that long!’

Gray, who was born without a right hand and with the bones in her forearm fused, chose to study at Oxford rather than compete in the 2012 Paralympic Games, and holds two national records for the New Zealand Disabled Swim Team. 

She explained that the 15km swim is ‘to celebrate the fact that Reading Quest is 15 years old this year’. 

Reading Quest is a local charity that provides one to one tuition for primary school children struggling with reading, with ‘an intensive six-week program of daily one-to-one teaching to focus on speaking, reading and writing”.

It particularly caters for children from underprivileged backgrounds where English is not often the first language spoken at home, making it difficult for them to do well in class. 

Gray described the organization as ‘a little known charity’, but added, “it’s just awesome that such a small thing can make a fundamental change”. 

She is optimistic that ‘doing a big public event will hopefully raise [Reading Quest’s] profile’ and explained, “The swim for me is just as much about raising awareness for Reading Quest as it is raising money.” 

Gray added, ‘It’s extremely sad that such an educational divide can exist in a city so renowned for its academics.’

She also described the difficulties of fitting a swimming career around Oxford’s notoriously demanding work schedule. This is made only more tricky by the fact that she is currently training to take part in the World Championships next year. 

It’s not only the amount of work that makes training tough for an athlete at Oxford, however. Gray told Cherwell how “this year I fractured my elbow and jaw in a post-bop accident”. 

However, she retains her enthusiasm for her “amazing” sport, and is still on track for both the charity event and next year’s World Championships.

Donations can be made here: https://mydonate.bt.com/events/georgiagray/65896

Review: The Cabin in the Woods

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If you’re going to see one meta-horror-comedy this Easter, make it The Cabin in the Woods. You’re possibly not that spoilt for choice but, ever since Wes Craven launched the Scream franchise, there’s been a niche pocket of films that embrace the conventions of horror movies by subverting them. It’s a neat trick but it’s been done to death, and when even the Saw movies start getting self-referential, you know it’s time for a change. Step in Joss Whedon and Drew Goddard.

Their film is a true original and unlike any horror movie that’s preceded it. Sure, it draws heavily from heavyweights like Evil Dead and Nightmare on Elm Street, but takes these classic ingredients in a direction that is at worst a ‘wtf?’, and at best ‘OH MY GOD! BEST FILM EVER!!!’ It’s one of those films whose traction is going to come from a plethora of irritating Facebook statuses, written by people who think they’re the only ones who have seen the movie. It sounds like criticism but, genuinely, the strength of The Cabin in the Woods is the extent to which, leaving the cinema, we feel personally invested in keeping the secret of its success.

So I shan’t spoil the surprise for you. What’s important is that you go in with an open mind and an empty bladder. There’s a lot more on display here than just the hunky guy from Thor and a naked Power Ranger. What you’re watching is a film that is bored of the strained pseudo-plausibility of recent horror films, bored of killers who kidnap unfeasibly sexy Eastern European tourists for sexual blood sport, bored of movies where teens go to a deserted house and get picked off one by one. In response to this boredom, Whedon and Goddard have created a movie that is by turns funny and scary but always intensely surprising. The less you know about the film the better.

Oxford applications fall

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The latest admission statistics released by Oxford have revealed a fall in applicants this year, despite applications from overseas and private school pupils increasing.

This is the first year where students will pay £9,000 tuition fees. The drop in applications is, however, only 0.6% compared to the previous year. This contrasts with an average drop of around 7% nationally in UCAS applications for the 2012/13 round.

Nonetheless, the number of state school students putting Oxford on their forms fell by 240, whilst 75 more private school pupils applied. In 2011, there was a fall in applications from 2010 levels in both the state and independent sectors.

The figure represents only the second drop in applications to Oxford in a decade, although in 2007/8 the number of applicants fell by 1.8% compared to the previous year.

State school students accounted for 56.6% of offers made to UK students, while private school students made up 41.1%. This is less than 2011, when the number of students accepted from UK private schools fell to 41.5%, a record low in at least the past five years. State schools pupils represented 56.7% of acceptances in 2011, an increase of 1.8% on the previous year and 3.8% since 2007.

Preliminary figures for 2012 entry indicate that UK applications fell from 12,107 to 11,835. There was a slight drop in students applying from EU countries, but non-EU overseas applications rose strongly to increase total overseas applications from 5,236 to 5,408. Overseas applicants pay larger undergraduate fees ranging from £13,200 to  £27,550 per year, and now account for more than 30% of total applicants.

Overall applications in 2011, however, increased from 17,144 to 17,343. The figures demonstrate that the total rise in applications made to Oxford in 2011 was entirely due to an increase in overseas applications.

Deferred entry, which had been consistently around 5% in the last few years, fell to 2% of acceptances in 2011, as applicants sought to avoid higher tuition fees. 

As part of the response to the incoming £9,000 a year tuition fees, the University has agreed to representation targets set down by the Office of Fair Access (OFFA), backed by fee waivers for the poorest students. It has, for the first time, also granted conditional offers requiring at least one A* grade at A level.

Domestic applications are still dominated by students from Greater London and the South East, which together accounted for 38.8% of all acceptances to Oxford in 2011. Both regions produced over 19% of entrants, with either on their own outstripping the combined acceptances from the North, North West and Yorkshire and the Humber regions, which totaled only 12.5%.

British Bangladeshi, Pakistani and black students, particularly Black Caribbean students, are still under-represented at Oxford. Only 0.6% of successful applicants were Bangladeshi and Pakistani, while 1.2% were black.

There were fewer entrants combined from these groups than those of Indian origin alone (2.7%), who along with Chinese students continue to do better than their percentage makeup in the general UK population. However, the success rates of ethnic minority students remain largely remain below 20%, lagging behind those of white students, at 24%.

The most and least competitive courses, ranked by success rates, remain broadly the same, with Economics & Management still attracting far higher numbers of applicants than subjects such as Classics. Whether increased fees will affect subject choices remains to be seen.

In an earlier press release in January, the University announced figures which indicated that state school applicants attending its summer school were more than twice as likely to win a place at Oxford than the national average. 41.7% of students who applied after participating in the 2011 UNIQ summer school, Oxford’s flagship access initiative launched in 2010, received offer letters, compared with around 20.5% of applicants in the same year. 

Rhys Owens, who attended UNIQ in 2010 and is now studying at Hertford, believes its success “demonstrates a general trend of increased access within the university”.

He added, “UNIQ is a particularly good framework for access schemes. But it cannot be seen as the only successful initiative taken by the university.” 

Oxford’s Vice-Chancellor, Professor Andrew Hamilton, said, “We are passionately committed to attracting talented students whatever their circumstances. The UNIQ summer schools are a central pillar of our access strategy and we are delighted to see how effective they are.

‘We also believe that by offering the most generous financial support in the country, we have made it more likely that those from under-represented socio-economic backgrounds will choose Oxford. We hope our message is getting across: If you have the ability, Oxford will remove all barriers.”

The University has released comprehensive new statistics for 2011 admissions, as well as the preliminary offer figures for 2012 entries.