Thursday 17th July 2025
Blog Page 373

Some students can return to university from 8th March

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In a statement to the House of Commons today, the Prime Minister has announced that some university students will be able to return for in-person teaching on the 8th March, while others will have to wait until the end of the Easter holidays to find out when they can return.

Students who are undertaking practical courses, or require specialist facilities for their degrees will be able to return from the 8th March. This will also apply to any course which requires onsite access. Higher education guidance released on Gov.uk today appears to confirm this: “In addition to the students who returned to in-person teaching and learning in January, providers can resume in-person teaching and learning for undergraduate and postgraduate students who are studying practical or practice-based (including creative arts) subjects and require specialist equipment and facilities from 8 March”. The definition of “practical” has not been provided.

However, all other students will continue to work remotely for the time being. Options for a more general return to in-person teaching will be reviewed by the end of Easter: “The government will review, by the end of the Easter holidays, the options for timing of the return of remaining students. This review will take account of the latest data and will be a key part of the wider roadmap steps. Students and providers will be given a week’s notice ahead of any further return.”

The guidance for higher education providers continues that: “Providers should not offer in-person teaching before then, or later if further guidance to this effect is issued, and should encourage students to remain at their current accommodation until the resumption of their in-person teaching, wherever possible.”

The Prime Minister said that all the steps he outlined in his statement would be dependent on four tests, including the success of the vaccine rollout, the number of hospital admissions and deaths, the amount of pressure on the NHS and the impact of future mutations.

The first stage of the government’s plan for exiting lockdown involves the reopening of all schools on the 8th March, and from the 29th March meetings of up to 6 individuals or two households will be allowed outdoors. Hospitality and non-essential retail should reopen on the 12th April as part of the second stage in the government’s plan to ease lockdown restrictions. This will include hairdressers, public buildings, indoor leisure, alcohol takeaways and beer gardens.

The Prime Minister announced that the rule of six would be scrapped in May in outdoor settings in favour of a limit of thirty at gatherings. In indoor settings the maximum number of people in a group will remain six. Finally, in June the last restrictions should be lifted, with the final sectors of the economy, such as nightclubs, reopened.

In an email to students today, the university said: “The UK Government is expected to confirm arrangements for the end of the current national lockdown today (Monday 22 February), including plans for the return of students to universities. Once published, the University and colleges will urgently review the guidance and provide information for students about arrangements for Trinity term and about returning to Oxford. We expect to be in a position to write to all students by the end of this week (Friday 26 February). However, the University will not have prior sight of the guidance, and we appreciate your patience as we work through the details.”

Picture by Andrew Parsons / No 10 Downing Street.

Zoom cuppers – a new sub-genre of theatre?

I was apprehensive about whether or not to participate in a Zoom cuppers. However, something about the “virtual sub-genre emerging out of pandemic darkness”, as Arifa Akbar (writing for the Guardian) has stated, excited me. This was an entirely new experience, a mode of art barely explored before 2020 and something that I believed would benefit me to be a part of.  

Thus, receiving the news that a group from my college were still taking part and that there was room for me amongst their ranks was comforting. The play, named ‘A*’, written by Leah O’Grady, followed the life of Pip, a sixth-former coping with the pressures of applying and being rejected from University in the wake of her friend’s death.

As in any theatre, playing out sensitive themes can be intimidating, especially to young actors. Over Zoom, this anxiety grew ten-fold. Met with scheduling issues, the distractions of home life, interjections from family, and being physically such a distance from one another, I felt the fear of seeming under-prepared and over-acting.

Without the means to use gesture or physicality properly, I was left acting like Emma Watson in the first few Harry Potter films: my eyebrows moving up, down and around with an intensity that was entirely unfounded. Things such as eye-contact (which I had totally under appreciated as a form of communication) became weirdly complicated, every actor being blindly aware that each was in a different formation on the others’ screens, many lines meant to convey intimacy simply having to be projected “out”, wherever that may be.  

Having no way of exiting the “stage”, Leah recommended covering our cameras with blue tac every time we left a scene. This initially gave the play a strange atmosphere of being on Nickelodeon or Disney Channel, each character seemingly punching the screen at every transition, until we eventually became slightly more elegant in our practice of “entering the wings”.  

Buffering was the enemy. To wait until whoever’s Wi-Fi returned or to continue the script was the question. Many times awkward silences ensued in which nobody quite knew the protocol. However, I occasionally found this to work to my advantage: forgetting a line or a cue is not such a punishable offence if you say your connection was lost. 

Despite these issues, problems were eventually ironed out through the true beauty of online performances: multiple chances to record. My eyebrows finally calmed down and the process was in fact incredibly helpful to develop subtleties of expression and tone of voice. The irony of being so intimately placed, face-to-face next to one another on-screen, whilst being miles away in reality made for interesting dynamics of conversation, and my group were proud of our work when we finished our final take. Leah, our director and writer simply stated: “it was really nice having a project that I’d been working on actually read and developed!” So, whilst the exhilaration and the glamour of the stage can wait for next year, I am glad that I was able to involve myself in what we may one day look back on as a lost and fleeting sub-genre of theatre.

The comedy bug

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Standing up in front of a crowd and telling jokes: for most, it’s their idea of hell, but for some, it’s where they feel most at home.

When people ask what it’s like, I often say that it’s like telling a funny story to a group of friends in the pub: except they’re not your friends, you’re not in a pub, and your hands are sweating. No sympathy laughs from your mate when the joke doesn’t quite land; no in-jokes to fall back on; no new haircut to make fun of. Comedy is a savage mistress.

Arriving at Oxford in 2018, I joined the Oxford Revue, performing my first show in Hilary of my first year. Put together with 5 others whom I barely knew, we had to write a show which would be funny enough for a 5-night run at the BT: the zenith of any Oxford performer’s career. Some sketches you write are good, some are bad. Some are really, really bad.

Amongst the ones I submitted for the show was a sketch where a toothpaste is so powerfully whitening that a man is blinded by his own teeth. There was another where a toothbrush factory begins manufacturing brushes to brush the toothbrushes themselves. I don’t know why the dental sector had such a powerful impact on my creative output, but it’s safe to say that neither of those sketches made it into the final cut: apparently the realm of dental comedy was already ‘saturated enough’.

It can be humbling to bring your work to a roomful of others. It’s essentially saying ‘look at what I wrote here – isn’t it really funny?’ So, when it turns out to be not as funny as you initially thought – when you were wiping away the tears of laughter as you typed it up – it can be tough, and even humiliating.

However, it’s the bad ones which make you feel so good when you write one that lands: the affirmation you feel when other people tell you ‘this is funny’ is like no other. Not to mention when the thing which you have written gets laughs from a real audience of real people. It’s like getting a big laugh amongst your mates but on crack.

Performing in Oxford was one thing, but going elsewhere felt like different gravy. The Revue go up to the Edinburgh Fringe every year, and I performed both sketch and stand up there in 2019. I remember walking up to the microphone, about to do my first ever stand-up set, thinking ‘How has someone let me do this? Is this allowed? Where’s my mum?’: I was just a man, in a t-shirt, standing there and telling some jokes.

Despite all the challenges that come with doing comedy, I think it’s easier than most people realise. It’s not some god-given charm or natural wit, but it is far more a learnt art: after a while, you realise what people tend to find funny, and what people don’t. For instance, the elderly audience of the Edinburgh Fringe don’t particularly enjoy too many jokes on poo and wee; they do, however, love jokes about Joanna Lumley and Milton Keynes. Each to their own.

Nonetheless, comedy still has the ability to be beautifully unpredictable. For the Fringe, I wrote what I thought was a fairly average sketch, depicting a scene between two friends, a wolf and an elk. In the scene, the wolf has mistakenly eaten the elk’s mother.

Wolf: Yeah, I guess I must have got the wrong one. I swear I asked one of them which one Gary was.

Elk: Yeah, you did. My sister pointed him out to you. [He points]

Wolf: Ah right. Ok yeah. I think what might have happened here is that, because the elk hoof doesn’t lend itself particularly well to pointing, I may have thought she was pointing at Gary, when she was in fact pointing at Mrs Elk, your mother.

Elk: [he examines hoof] Ah yes. Yes, I think you may be right. Damn our cloven hooves!

Wolf: Ah what a pickle!

Elk: How silly! Well no worries, wolf, not your fault. Just try not to do it again!

Wolf: I’ll do my best!

This sketch, which I wrote after seeing a nature documentary, turned out to be by far the most popular one each day. Others were more polished and more sensical, but it was the absurd which appeared to capture people’s imaginations: such is comedy’s ability to unite people in the strangest of ways.

So, where are we now? Comedy in Covid times is, like everything, pretty difficult. Because of the limitations of social distancing, shows have been pretty much non-existent, and thus laughter – a comedian’s one real affirmation – is gone. The Oxford Revue have moved their content online, which has presented its own challenges. Writing together in groups over Teams isn’t the most seamless of journeys: the bad Wi-Fi, the delays and the lack of proper eye contact all makes it difficult to cultivate an authentic, natural comic atmosphere. Because comedy, to me, often strikes at the very heart of the human condition, it requires a certain human connection which is far more difficult to garner on-screen. Nonetheless, we do our best: we release videos every Monday on Facebook and Instagram, and have welcomed a new cohort of writers. Likewise, we ran a successful set of comedy workshops for women in 3rd Week.

Who knows when this thing will come to an end? But, when it does, you can bet on me being on stage once more, with sweaty thighs and a gentle shake, asking myself how on earth I got there.

Image Credit: Justin Lim.

University confirms record low 3 cases this week

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The University has confirmed 3 cases of Covid-19 amongst staff and students from Early Alert Service tests for the 13th of February to the 19th of February with a positivity rate of 4.1% and 73 tests administered in total. This marks the lowest figures this term for positive test results, tests administered, and positivity rate. In 5th week of last term, 126 positive cases were reported. 

The number of tests administered to staff and students through the Early Alert Service has been slowly falling as term has progressed, and both the number of positive tests and the positivity rate of tests has remained low since 1st week. This data does not include figures from the lateral flow tests offered to students at the start of term.

From the 15th of February to the 21st of February 163 people tested positive in Oxford, according to UK government data, with a rate of 101.7 cases per 100k people in the population. This marks a 4.1% decrease from the previous 7 days of cases. 

Oxford City Council are currently supporting a campaign to make the vaccine more accessible to the community, over concerns in particular of migrants not registering with their GP due to fear of deportation under the government’s ‘Hostile Environment’ policy. Over 140 organisations have signed a statement urging the government to prioritise vaccine accessibility.

Pandemic Projects: Oxford and Beyond

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For many of us students, this term will happen from home and from behind our screens. In most cases, this means less social interaction, which has left all of us with more time to spend on binging Netflix’s recent releases (Lupin, Bridgerton, or The Crown’s last season, depending on your persuasion), or on Instagram, getting fed up after seeing thousands of Bernie Sanders in just as many different places. As well as the Netflixing and Instagramming, though, many students have also used this time to take action on issues close to their hearts.

Larissa Koerber, a first year Law student at Oxford, is one of these students. Throughout the pandemic, she has significantly developed her Instagram account, @Sheisthehero. She first created this account during her gap year, with the ambition of showcasing interviews with inspiring women, both from her home country of Switzerland and from abroad. Amongst her chosen personalities are entrepreneurs, designers, chocolatiers, and politicians – content includes inspirational writing, stylish graphics, and a regular ‘hero of the day’. Finding that her visits for interviews were no longer possible due to Covid-19, Larissa used her time to develop all sorts of merchandise, which now supports her platform financially and spreads awareness of the project. The page is still going strong; Koerber continues to champion women who have shaped their worlds in diverse and fascinating ways.

Some students have managed to take advantage of the fact that everyone is stuck at home and unite their strengths; this is the case of Declan Peters, Tarun Odedra and James Appiah, all three state-schooled, and now freshers at Oxford, Durham and Cambridge respectively. Together, they are running a series of podcasts on Spotify called Tomorrow’s Story, where they discuss societal, political and cultural issues with prominent guests. In their first few podcasts, they have tackled difficult topics such as knife crime in London, Trump’s presidential pardons, and Covid-positive grants. Their initiative targets young people, encouraging them to engage with themselves and the world they live in – as Declan Peters puts it: “Tomorrow’s Story was an opportunity for us to kick-start the kind of thinking in young people that leads to success across numerous aspects of their lives moving forward. Our tag line, ‘Debate, Discover and Distribute’, emphasises the idea of elevating as part of a community – working together towards common goals.” The students are very happy with the impact they have made on their audience after only a few episodes: “the response so far has been really strong, and we receive messages every day from people who are forming opinions and becoming curious about the world that surrounds them”. 

Upholding and elevating the next generation has also been the motivation of a colossal project uniting the universities of Cambridge and Oxford, The Oxbridge LaunchpadAt its core is the desire to make these two universities more accessible, opening them up to pupils from less privileged backgrounds. The pandemic turned this ambition into reality, as one of their co-founders Vikram Mitra told me: “the pandemic was an enormous driver in our mission; the ‘A-level fiasco’ on results day 2020 brought to the fore the prejudices within our education system. Co-founder Kavi and I wanted to be part of the solution to this problem.” In order to achieve this, they have set up a free mentoring scheme between current Oxbridge students and prospective applicants. This concept has rapidly convinced many volunteering students as well as many ambitious sixth-formers, to Vikram’s delight: “the Oxbridge Launchpad team has grown rapidly – our mentoring team has expanded from just 30 to over 250 mentors from across Oxford and Cambridge since our launch. Most importantly it is our collective passion for access, alongside our insight into the application process, that drives our ability to make a social impact.”

These are just three examples from countless ways in which students in Oxford and across the country are making a difference, despite these very difficult times. The pandemic’s silver lining is the extra time it affords us to make our ideas into reality; I can only encourage any student who has a dream to go for it!

Artwork by Rachel Jung.

How COVID-19 can affect your toes and skin

Matilda Gettins describes the COVID-19 symptom that is keeping us on our toes

“COVID toes” are a dermatological symptom of COVID-19. They “resemble chilblains”, which are red or purplish swellings one may experience if hands or feet are exposed to the cold for too long. They can feel itchy, cause pain or a sensation of burning. It is a widespread symptom. Over 200 articles in the Wiley Online Library have documented the phenomenon. However, it is not one of the 3 officially recognised symptoms (NHS guidelines).

During the first wave, a Spanish study examined data from 429 cases of dermatological symptoms associated with COVID-19 from 3 to 16 April 2020. Due to the low testing capacity available at the time, the study included both suspected and confirmed cases of COVID-19. It found “pseudo‐chilblains” in 19% of cases, including cases on both the fingers and toes. These symptoms were found to cause pain (32%), to itch (30%) or to give a burning sensation (11%). The study links the pseudo‐chilblains with COVID‐19 because dermatologists perceived an increased incidence of these lesions in a “warm weather period” and because “patients frequently had COVID‐19 contacts”. Additionally, of the 71 patients with pseudo‐chilblains, only one had a previous history of chilblains. 

However, some scientists suggested that “COVID toes” might be related more to a change in lifestyle due to COVID restrictions, and not the virus itself. If children do not leave the house, but nonetheless fail to dress appropriately (e.g. not wear socks in the house) chilblains may occur even indoors.

To further investigate if the swellings could be related to COVID-19, a different team of scientists investigated biopsy samples from the blood vessel cells of the feet of seven children. These children exhibited the symptoms of COVID toes but had neither respiratory symptoms nor a positive result following nasal swab PCR tests. Yet under a specialized microscope, the scientists found coronavirus particles in the sample. The study did not test for antibodies.

COVID toes have also been documented worldwide. An International COVID-19 Dermatology Registry collected over 990 cases from 39 countries, and published findings based on this data in October 2020. It found COVID toes to last an average of 15 days, but that they could persist for “as long as 130-150 days”. The German Dermatology association’s website highlights that COVID toes are associated with late stages of infection while Dr. Paller of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) Association adds that it is unclear “whether you’re contagious when you have COVID toes”. 

There are multiple other dermatological symptoms, such as hives and rashes, which have been recorded in association with COVID-19 infections, but whose correlation or potential causation remains insufficiently recorded. It will take more time and research until we have an accurate idea of the palette of symptoms that COVID-19 can cause. 

To speed up this process, some scientists have started taking innovative methods, such as analysing social media posts for potential symptoms. But for now, we will just have to keep an eye out for new, emerging symptoms that may help give us more insight into this novel virus. 

It’s time for contraceptive justice

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In 1979, researchers in India first published that they were developing a form of hormonal male contraception, namely, ‘Reversible inhibition of sperm under guidance’ or RISUG. This non-surgical and reversible male contraception is injected into the vas deferens (the tubes transporting sperm from the testicle to the ejaculatory ducts). Over forty years on, RISUG is only just undergoing Phase 3 Clinical Trials.

In stark contrast, the female combined oral contraceptive pill was researched, tested, mass-produced and widely available on the market in the US by 1960. Why did it take fifty years for substantial research into hormone-based male contraceptives to even begin and why are there still no options available besides surgery and condoms?

The lack of non-surgical, long-term male contraceptive methods has real-life effects on women worldwide. UN data shows that 70% of global contraceptive users resort to female contraceptive methods over male ones. Even with surgical methods, available to both men and women, there is an imbalance – 23.7% of users were found to have had a hysterectomy or female tubal ligation while only 2% of users had a vasectomy.

In 2006, Phase 3 Clinical Trials of a combined testosterone and progestin male contraceptive by US pharmaceutical companies Organon and Schering were dropped when Bayer bought Schering. The pharmaceutical giant’s reasoning for stopping the trials is unclear, but a lack of interest could be inferred. TIME magazine quoted the deputy director as saying that “Once the acquisition was finalized, [Bayer] conducted a thorough review of the product portfolio to ensure that the business was investing resources in therapeutic areas that would bring the greatest benefits to patients while ensuring the company was operating in a financially responsible manner”. The subtext expresses the common myth that there is no demand for hormonal male contraceptives and thus, no profit to be made by companies in developing them.

The early studies showed side effects of acne, weight gain, and mood issues. Bayer, which as one of the top sellers of female birth control has profited from products with the same, if not worse, side effects, may struggle to claim that the medication lacked scientific precedent. Women taking the combined pill face significant side-effects: headaches, weight gain, mood changes, and decreased libido among others. The problem is that standards for safety are inconsistent and discriminatory.

Historically, pharmaceutical companies have been more likely to accept side effects caused by female contraception than male contraception. Alongside the medical burden caused by potential side-effects, women shoulder the financial burden of birth control. On average, female contraceptive methods are more expensive than male methods.

Just as there is little investment in making male contraceptive products, there is little investment into research about how men would react to new products entering the market, resulting in the unsubstantiated idea of a lack of interest remaining popular, despite no effort to prove or disprove it. However, recent research shows that there is a demand for equal access to contraception methods. A 2021 survey by 3Vraagt, as part of the EenVandaag opinion panels, found that 65% of 16–34-year-olds in the Netherlands believed the responsibility to avoid pregnancy should be shared equally by both partners. Responsibility would, of course, be much easier to share, if there were a readily available, reversible, non-surgical, hormone-based contraception method for men.

The Contraceptive Development Program’s (CDP) contraceptive skin gel shows promise in this respect. Much like the combined pill, it contains two main compounds: the progestin compound segesterone acetate, which makes the body believe it is making enough sperm and thus halt production, and testosterone to replace the low levels that progestin leads to. This maintains libido, and all men have to do is remember to rub the gel on their shoulders each morning, hardly more effort than the daily pill women ingest. However, progress is slow: speaking to IFLScience in January 2021, Dr Diana Blithe, Program Chief of the CDP, said that the gel would not be available in the next five years.

The rapid development of vaccines in recent years has shown us that with enough funding, time and energy, rapid development in scientific innovation is possible. In 2018, Global Market Insights valued the contraceptives market at $24,118.1 million in 2018 and estimated a growth of 6.9% from 2019 to 2025. There is evidently a financial profit to be made in this growing market, and pharmaceutical companies should push against unsubstantiated and outdated ideas about a lack of demand for long-term male contraception.

It’s time for contraceptive justice, which means men must take their share of responsibility after years of women enduring the financial and medical toll of birth control. The myth that pharmaceutical companies uphold about a lack of demand can only be countered by men stepping up and showing interest. Innovative and effective hormonal male contraception options could be readily available, but they will never reach the market unless apathy ends.

Image credit: Reproductive Heath Supplies Coalition/Unsplash

Science Snippet: Analysis of COVID-19 symptoms on twitter

Researchers from the University of Utah examined twitter posts from early April 2020, which contained either the words “COVID-19” or a similar synonym, as well as words referring to the three main symptoms recorded by the Centers for Disease Control at the time (fever, cough, shortness of breath). In doing so, they found references to 36 other unique symptoms, including 3 898 cases of the now well documented symptom of loss of taste. They suggest that “monitoring social media is a promising approach to public health surveillance”. 

Delusions of grandeur: why Prada’s new advertising campaign does intellectual fashion a disservice

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We fashion hobbyists face a continual struggle to justify to ourselves and others the time, consideration, and, of course, money we devote to what might seem a frivolous pursuit. Occasionally a moment of genius will capture the broader cultural consciousness – the 2018 Alexander McQueen documentary and its sensitive reverence for the runway experience comes to mind. However to most people, most of the time, luxury fashion is an egregious parade of elitism designed by shallow, out-of-touch narcissists for other shallow, out-of-touch narcissists. The clothes themselves come across more likely to induce sniggers than admiration.

The difficulty lies in the fact that they’re quite frequently correct. Earlier this month the case for fashion as a meaningful endeavour suffered another, particularly galling knockback when Prada revealed the advertising campaign for their Spring/Summer 2021 women’s collection. The collection itself, debuted back in September, was the first from their new all-star directive duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Many found it did not live up to the enormous anticipation which preceded it, but was by no means a failure. The longstanding Prada shawl-clutching motif made a welcome return, while the house’s logo was creatively reproduced in negative through cut-outs in the garments, and Simons acolytes will have enjoyed the introduction of his signature graphic prints. Nothing revelatory, but a serviceable offering which mediated the two iconic designers’ respective codes. At the beginning of a new era for the house, it felt like a respectful nod to the practices which elevated it to the superpower it is today.

So, how should this long-awaited meeting of two of fashion’s most acute and dependably innovative minds be marketed to the broader consuming public? The industrious team up at Prada HQ, apparently possessed by the visionary spirit of Don Draper himself, were more than up to the challenge and dreamed up a daring strategy of quite frightening ingenuity. The solution, naturally, was to denigrate the intelligence of their consumer base with a series of pseudo-deep ruminations. Nothing drums up desire like feeling patronised.

One reads: “Does ‘cloud’ make you think of data or sky?” Profound in 2014, perhaps. Another asks: “Is nature out there or in here?” Hmmm. I wonder. A call-back to the antique nature vs nurture debate regarding the cultivation of virtue, no doubt. A model lost in thought (and in a very nice coat) has his image overlaid with text reading: “Can something be truly new?” A searching assessment of the limitations of innovation within a tradition-based medium, I see, I see. I came for the knits but I’m staying for the knowledge. With each question (and there are a lot) is a prompt to provide our own answers at Prada.com.

This is all, of course, vacuous nonsense. No doubt we are supposed to conceive of the project as a striking examination of a modern world in which our vernacular is in constant flux, where concrete knowledge has been banished, and where our online life now informs our ‘real’ one more than the other way around; instead it reads as a series of *hits blunt* memes. As one editor aptly tweeted in response to the campaign: “Oh ffs. Our industry really is beyond parody.” “Did Jaden Smith write this copy [sic]” asked someone else. I personally experienced distressing flashbacks to the brand’s S/S 20 advertising campaign, which toyed with PRADA as an acronym for similarly vapid inanities like “Perhaps Romance Always Desires Another”. Whatever that means.

What examples like this do – surface-level intellectualisations of collections which lack more than a hint of subversion – is discredit the entire medium. Lots of fashion is frivolous and a matter of pure aesthetics, and that’s just fine. We wouldn’t follow fashion if we didn’t enjoy beautiful clothes. But when they lay claim to a depth they do not obviously possess it makes it harder to take seriously those collections which do deserve to be treated seriously.

It’s why Nicolas Ghesquière plastering ‘VOTE’ over his S/S 21 Louis Vuitton womenswear collection (which would not even be released until a number of months after the US election it targeted) helps no-one. Instead, it turns more casual audiences away from the idea that fashion can ever be meaningfully political. In actuality, we are blessed with a raft of designers like Grace Wales Bonner and Thebe Magugu who consistently and subtly confront issues of identity politics, ancestry, sexuality, and race through their collections. The Prada campaign poses fatuous questions and offers no answers; buying and wearing the clothes of brands like those mentioned amounts to a tacit personal alignment far more valuable than intellectual ostentation.

It’s all the more disappointing for the fact that Mrs. Prada, especially, is one of fashion’s true thinkers, a reliable mine of cultural insight who rarely fails to produce an incisive quote. She has a PhD in Political Science, and her Prada, built on technical daring, has typically appealed to a considered but difficult-to-pin-down customer. Of her first collection she said, “It was not for the classic ones — there was something disturbing. And for the super trendy avant-gardists, it was too classic. I always like to move in that space, never please anybody.” Few living designers seem to possess the self-aware conceptual grounding which she has exhibited for over four decades.

The conversation broadcast after the S/S 21 show clearly indicates that Mrs. Prada and Mr. Simons thought more deeply about the issues posed by these sorts of questions than the advertisements suggest. Both are intentional people, and they do not usually produce shallow collections. Whether or not the clothes actually conveyed those intentions is a matter of opinion; perhaps something was lost in the translation from product to marketing, perhaps from conception to product. But whichever it is, the images of this campaign, set to grace billboards, screens, and bus-stops the world over, will only serve to alienate with their absurd self-seriousness rather than to provoke introspection. Sometimes fashion media derided by the wider public can be defended on the grounds that ‘they just don’t get it’ – on this occasion common sense proves an accurate bullshit detector.

Artwork by Emma Hewlett.

Revisiting ‘All The King’s Men’ in the Post-Trumpian Era

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I sat down to write this in early January, after spending a few days obsessively doom-scrolling the news and witnessing the bloody siege of the U.S. Capitol on Jan. 6. The faces in the crowds burning with rage, the screams of ‘traitors’ and ‘treason’, the assaults of news reporters and above all the vandalising of this great historical monument leaves one breathless. I was stunned both that something so unabashedly crude could happen at the bastion of Western democracy but also at just how warped from reality former President Donald Trump’s mob of supporters have become. The scenes made me recall, and not for the first time this year, the similar events of Robert Penn Warren’s 1946 classic novel All The King’s Men, mid-way through which the central character governor Willie Stark faces impeachment following accusations of corruption, and subsequently a large crowd of loyalists flood the state capitol, chanting ‘Willie!’, all prepared to siege the legislature to protect their leader. When I first read All The King’s Men in 2016 these scenes seemed fantastical. Despite Trump’s growth in the polls, I could not believe that such mentality would grip a country obsessed with freedom. Revisiting Warren’s novel four years later, moments like this are hauntingly relevant.

Warren’s novel focuses on Stark’s transformation from an idealistic rural lawyer to ‘The Boss’: a ruthless populistic governor. Stark’s demagogic descent mirrors the story of the real Louisiana governor and then senator Huey Long, whose radical economic program and charismatic personality ensured his political domination until his assassination in 1935. Even the book’s title All the King’s Men, while a direct quote from the Humpty Dumpty fable, also acts as a reference to Long’s campaign song ‘Every Man a King’. The novel is a personal study of the forces of resentment, bigotry and paranoia that energise populist movements. While at the time Trump’s election seemed like an unprecedented phenomenon, Stark’s story shows the lasting appeal of the strong-man leader in times of economic turmoil. Nevertheless, Warren’s novel also provided me with hope that while demagogues may seem invincible, they and all they stand for can be defeated.

All the King’s Men is not merely the story of Willie Stark, as Warren’s world is brimming with fascinating side characters. One particularly interesting character is the narrator Jack Burden. Burden, like Stark, is transformed, over the course of the novel, morphing from an inquisitive historian and journalist to a nihilistic political fixer for Stark. Burden acts as the audience’s surrogate, and his journey resonated with me. While Burden has a uniquely intimate relationship with Stark, he is the embodiment of how the individual reacts to demagoguery: whether they embrace a cynical philosophy or strike against it, as Burden later does. Much like the 1920s and 30s, we live in a period of great change when all previously-held cultural norms and precedents seem to be shifting under our feet. All the King’s Men speaks to this time of turmoil, questioning how the individual responds to that, whether they challenge it or become corrupted by it.

Stark’s decline remains the most compelling part of the novel, with Warren’s use of symbolism and vivid detail painting the degradation of a humble family-man into a corrupt politician. Warren is keen to separate the idealistic ‘Willie Stark’ from the corrupted ‘Boss’, the same individual but rendered barely recognisable in a Jekyll-Hyde style transformation. Upon re-reading two of these key symbols of corruption I noticed was alcohol and sexuality, ever-present in showcasing Willie’s seduction by power. Warren was writing, and the novel is set, in the early post-Prohibition age, and alcohol abuse has infected society. The humble ‘Willie Stark’ is at first teetotal, with Jack Burden and Willie’s first meeting in 1922 being defined by Stark’s rejection of alcohol. Tiny Duffy, initially Willie Stark’ political opponent and later his sycophantic supporter, repeatedly attempts to force Willie to drink. But Willie stands his ground, refusing as his wife Lucy ‘doesn’t favour drinking… for a fact’. Willie’s teetotalism is a signifier both of his devotion to his wife and a reflection of his moral lawfulness, through his refusal to break the Prohibition. However, following learning of his betrayal by Tiny Duffy who used Willie in the election to ‘split the Hick vote’, alcohol becomes Willie’s gateway to corruption. Willie pours enough whiskey ‘to floor the Irish and drank it off neat’, passing out on his hotel bed. Warren presents Willie in a liminal state, describing him as a ‘carcass’, a ‘sap’ and dehumanising him as ‘it’. When Willie reawakens he has transformed in to ‘The Boss’ and depends on alcohol to function, drinking before all his public speeches to vitalise himself. Alcohol corrupts Willie and accelerates his transformation into ‘The Boss’. I only noticed on details like this when I recently revisited this novel years later, but it is small signifiers that made me appreciate Warren’s tale even more.

Sexuality and infidelity becomes another symbol of this patriarchal corruption. While Willie Stark was defined by his rural simplicity and loyalty to his wife, The Boss is repeatedly and carelessly unfaithful to his partners, both his wife Lucy and later his mistress and political confidant Sadie Burke. Like alcohol, sex becomes another signpost of corruption. Political potency grants ‘The Boss’ with the unquestioned ability to indulge in his desires, whether that be the ‘Nordic Nymph’ dancers in a night club or even Jack’s old partner and childhood friend Anne Stanton. Like the much repeated Lord Acton quote ‘absolute power corrupts absolutely’, The Boss’ political stature removes any sense of honour or morality, ensuring he objectifies all women in his vicinity. Indeed, The Boss’ infidelity is mirrored several times throughout the narrative, with Jack Burden’s ancestor Cass Mastern – whom he writes a historical dissertation about as a student – similarly being corrupted by sexual desire. It is here that the Trump comparisons become more sharper, with The Donald’s numerous infidelities mirrored by The Boss’. I really picked up on the themes of corruption when I revisited Penn Warren’s novel, and the manners in which it is expressed. Both alcoholism and infidelity are frequent motifs throughout the novel, gateways by which characters corrupt and in turn are corrupted.

Another interesting aspect of Warren’s novel, and something that mirrors our society, is how The Boss’ populism polarises and divides his state. Much like how dinner conversations and visits to family have recently been dominated by divisive political talk, politics has infested the world Warren presents. When Jack notes that he has seen a picture of the Boss ’in a thousand places, from pool halls to palaces’ it is not difficult to imagine he is living in Trump’s 2020. Indeed, Warren captures the politically charged atmosphere, and the growing toxicity in the air brilliantly. This is particularly demonstrated in a tense dinner scene where Jack defends The Boss’ methods, claiming if state government ‘….had been doing anything for the folks in it, would Stark have been able to get out there with his bare hands and bust the boys’. The painfully awkward silence, and Jack’s mother’s subsequent response that she did not know he ‘…felt that – that way!’ reveals how Jack’s allegiance to The Boss has poisoned all his relationships. Warren shows the cancerous effects of political polarisation and culture wars, how even familial bonds can be shattered by partisanship. The lines of partisanship are so present that they define us and divide us.

Warren is equally great at presenting a sense of blood in the air, and the paranoia rife throughout the state, particularly at The Boss’ rallies. While the humble Willie Stark delivered dull rallies based on his planned tax program, The Boss realises how the power of resentment and anger can capture an audience. He frequently insults the crowds at his rallies, calling them ‘red-necks’ and ‘hicks’ like himself, forging a bond with his crowds through anger against an elite. Much like the ‘lock her up’ chants that defined Trump’s 2016 rallies, The Boss similar derides his opponents, primarily Duffy, as ‘Judas Iscariot, the lick-spittle, the nose-wiper!’ Trump often resorted to violent imagery throughout his campaign, vilifying his opponents as unpatriotic traitors, while The Boss similarly calls for his ‘hicks’ to ‘Nail ‘em up!’ If his supporters refuse to, The Boss concludes they can ‘…hand me the hammer and I’ll do it with my own hand’. Political polarisation and the dehumanising of one’s opponents infects Warren’s world, much as it ripped apart Western liberal democracies.

Warren universalises his narrative through his narrator, suggesting that all conscious citizens in unstable liberal democracies are Jack Burden. The individual can either grow numb and cynical by this tyranny or challenge it. Ultimately, Jack rejects his harmful philosophy, accepting and embracing this past and moving away from this nihilistic worldview. It is this hopeful portrayal of citizenship that allows Warren’s novel to inspire and much as it horrifies. I cannot recommend All the King’s Men enough; as a book about populism and demagogues, it is unchallenged. Even beyond that, the novel’s frequent biting humour and Warren’s beautiful writing style is captivating. While some critics have concluded it merely to be a retelling of the Huey Long story, the book is so much more than that, grappling with challenging philosophical questions. It’s a book about perspective: what separates a sycophant and a public servant, a historian or a political fixer. More than that it’s a book about truth, and how far we should search for it. In the words of The Boss ‘man is conceived in sin and born in corruption and he passeth from the stink of the die to the stench of the shroud. There is always something.’

Image credit: Tyler Merbler. Image License: Wikimedia Commons.