Friday, May 16, 2025
Blog Page 385

Smell The Damn Roses

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It’s a cold November morning in Oxford, and due to the national lockdown, I, like many others, am desperately trying to find ways to escape mundane reality, and my narcotic of choice is hardcore nostalgia. As freedom has been stolen from us, I find solace in letting my imagination run wild, especially through creating make-belief scenarios through stylised photographs.

For me, that has been a particularly effective 2020 coping mechanism as fantasy lets our minds travel when we physically cannot. I want to transport you to the summer of 1969, when fashion and life had no rules, in fact, the fewer the clothes and the more skin to skin contact the better. Taking these photographs helped me fantasize about where I want to be. Perhaps it is a type of creative visualisation – if you can dream up a scenario through photos, isn’t it almost as if you’re there?

The styling for this shoot was inspired by the 60s/70s babes at Woodstock, ironically I took inspiration from a festival that hosted 400,000 half-naked hippies, an idea that is hilariously unfathomable right now. Also, the combination of a suede jacket with nothing underneath, suit trousers and cowboy boots is a look that takes ‘powerful’ to the next level, you heard it here first.

Today, living in Woodstock’s parallel universe in which restrictions galore have been imposed on us, it is supremely important to indulge in day dreaming. Imelda Staunton said, ‘At the time of Woodstock, I was just 13, but I used to see these exotic hippy creatures and I did look on with envy. How could you not? In an ideal world, I would have loved to have been a hippy – but I might have been a bit strait-laced. It was my fantasy.’ Mine too, Ms Staunton. I hope you were pleasantly surprised that these photos were taken at 9am, in 7 degrees November, and I hope you can find ways to daydream, spark joy, and smell the damn roses, even in the darkest of days.

Between a rook and a hard place: Female ambition in The Queen’s Gambit

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It’s been a common complaint for years – TV seems to revel in showing women being exploited by men. The tragic woman, harmed or ‘disappeared’ to gratify the audience’s desire for sexualised drama, is a pervasive artistic trope. But recent Netflix mini-series The Queen’s Gambit ignores such conventions, instead unfolding into something passionate, cerebral, and highly original, which champions not only its heroine’s uncompromising genius, but also the generosity of the men who help her along the way.  

Set against the backdrop of the Cold War, the series features Beth Harmon, an orphaned prodigy determined to become the world’s leading chess champion. But before she can succeed, she must battle many personal demons. The first episode sees Beth, a strange and solitary child, climb down the musty basement stairs of the Methuen Home for Girls. There she finds its caretaker, playing chess alone at a dark little table. My first reaction: something terrible would happen between them. Fictional orphans seem doomed to receive unpleasantry (think of Oliver Twist, Jane Eyre, or anything by Lemony Snicket). Maybe it was only the effect of the sinister institutional setting, but I wholly expected some twisted power play to unfold. Yet to its credit, the series doesn’t gratify any such macabre notions. While I would indeed describe what happens next as a ‘power play’, the only ‘twist’ is that Beth Harmon is in charge of the game’s every move.

Under Mr Shaibel’s crotchety but candid instruction, Beth quickly surpasses her tutor. Her life at the orphanage is dark – but every basement tournament presents a shining moment. Finally adopted in her late teens, Beth finds herself living in a claustrophobic suburban neighbourhood. There chess again provides her with an escape – she hones her abilities secretly in local all-male tournaments. At first she is patronised by her male opponents, but as they realise her ability far surpasses their own, they rally behind her. Just as with Mr. Shaibel, the men in Beth’s life provide her with constructive competition and solidarity more often than they threaten her, though admittedly some take a while to adjust to the idea of her intellectual superiority. The Queen’s Gambit is refreshing because it offers a model of masculinity that is neither toxic nor fragile, but supportive and generous. The show does not attempt to falsely champion ‘girl power’ by making Beth unassailably perfect, either – she can be brittle, brash and prone to terrible mistakes, while still fiercely capable as a woman.

Anna Taylor Joy, as Beth herself, is endlessly fascinating to watch: sharply poised, yet somehow languorous. There’s a scene where she dances to Peggy Lee’s ‘Fever’ with wonderfully off-beat sensuality. Her wardrobe – her mastery over which evolves along with her self-understanding – is designed impeccably by Gabriele Binder. The drab angular uniforms of her orphanage days are gradually replaced by chic, 60s inspired pieces as she gains confidence and cosmopolitan edge. Beth’s final outfit of the series – a sleek, white, structured coat – resembles the white Queen chess piece, signifying Beth has reached the apex of personal maturity as well as chess prowess.  

Yet as her success in the chess world gathers momentum, so do the intensity of her addictions. During her time at the orphanage Beth becomes dangerously obsessed with mid-altering sedatives, and under the influence of her adoptive mother, developes a drinking habit. The show leaves the nature of her genius’ relationship to these substances unresolved. At times, her substance abuse is shown to be antagonistic to her performance at the chest tables, providing her with incentive to kick the habit. Yet at others, in a manner both problematic and fascinating, the pills are what appear to unlock the full power of her mind. Struggling to win a game, she rushes into the nearest bathroom. From the ceiling, as happens every time she takes the pills, giant shadow chess pieces materialise, descending eerily like stalactites from another dimension. With their aid, Beth can see clearly the moves she must make. Through these moments the show can ask its most morally complex and ambitious questions. Are we the way we are because of our compulsions and addictions, or in spite of them? Do they make us, or unmake us? What is the true cost of genius?

Though the game of chess itself is a dominant subject of the show, its director Scott Frank explains why one need not know the game to relate to Beth’s story. It’s a reason equally applicable to the current pandemic: loneliness. “Having a gifted brain can be a curse really. Beth is so smart that she’s isolated from other people. The victory for her is not as much about chess but finding a group of people, a family, that she can call her own. She ends up with this group of people that know and love her.” Perhaps that is why the show has grown so popular over the past months – at a time when things are frustratingly insular, it’s something explorative and dynamic, which celebrates both individual strength and solidarity among friends.

You’re Having a Laugh, Ref!

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I have been a referee since the age of 14, the youngest age at which you can qualify. The experience of refereeing is incredibly different at the top of the pyramid compared to the bottom. At the top, referees in the Premier League and the Championship, who are full-time match officials, have the assistance of the infamous VAR and goal-line technology, and operate in 30,000+ seater stadiums. At the bottom, referees are paid around £35 a game, have a couple of Sports Direct flags to give to reluctant substitutes, and referee on muddy park pitches. Refereeing on a Sunday morning can be a lonely and difficult experience for so many referees, particularly as you are usually the sole non-partisan individual present.

The hardships that many amateur referees face are beginning to be highlighted more and often relate to the mental health and isolation that many referees feel, both on and off the pitch, stemming from abuse received whilst refereeing. A University of Portsmouth study has found that three in five referees experience abuse every two games, with 93.7% of match officials reporting experiencing verbal abuse, significantly higher than the figures for cricket and rugby union, and also significantly higher in the UK than in other European countries.

Worryingly, challenges to referees are also physical. In August, London FA referee Satyam Toki was punched three times after sending a player off for foul and abusive language. The attacker was only given a police caution, despite conclusive footage of the incident circulating widely on social media. The FA reports that assaults occur in 0.007% of matches, which equates to 2 assaults each week. In addition, this figure doesn’t take into account assaults that aren’t reported, as many referees are losing faith in their county FA to deal with reports appropriately.

There are some support networks available from county FAs, charities, and the national FA, and steps are being taken to try and help referees. The FA has published mental health guidance for referees to try and help those who are struggling with their mental health, whether refereeing-related or not. Charities, such as Ref Support UK, have stepped up to fill the gap left by authorities. Ref Support UK was in the spotlight after Ryan Hampson, a young referee who has been spat at, punched, and headbutted by players, became an ambassador. The Referees’ Association helps referees to connect with their colleagues at monthly local meetings and training sessions. In lockdown, via Zoom, meetings have continued; Howard Webb, the 2010 World Cup Final referee, led a webinar on Thursday 19th November, attended by over 500 referees. The FA has also introduced sin-bins for grassroots football, in an attempt to reduce dissent towards referees. Relating to football more widely, the Duke of Cambridge’s ‘Heads Up’ campaign aims to encourage more men to talk about their mental health.

However, there is still a long way to go. Martin Cassidy, chief executive of Ref Support UK, has reported a ‘massive’ increase in referees seeking support post-lockdown, with many players behaving like ‘caged animals’. The chief of the Referees’ Association, Paul Field, has commented that he is ‘convinced one day a match official in any sport will be assaulted and either seriously injured or killed. The warning signs are there and we have to do something. Doing nothing is not an option.’ I’m sure that most amateur football referees would agree with Mr Field.

This is certainly not to say that refereeing amateur football is always a torturous exercise. I enjoy the vast majority of games I officiate. Normally, you can have a laugh with players and enjoy the game. When I was 16, I was jokingly asked if I needed “to get home to do my homework” by a player (I did, to be fair…). Most players are respectful and are there to enjoy the game, just as most referees are.

Disappointingly, though, the mark is often overstepped. If there was more support for referees after incidents of abuse, and such incidents occurred less often, fewer talented referees would drop out and instead continue with their passion and progress through the ranks. So, next time you moan, or hear a pundit on TV moan, about the standard of refereeing, ask yourself why more people don’t put themselves forward to do it, and ask yourself if you’d want to start refereeing tomorrow. The people that do referee, from the Premier League down to Sunday league, have one uniting motivator – they love football, just like all fans and players.

Image credit: Aldershot RA Twitter

Review: V-Card

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In a term devoid of live theatrical performances, I was sceptical about whether a radio drama could fill the space that the pandemic so thoughtlessly emptied, particularly one originally destined for the stage? The answer is yes – if Alison Hall writes it. 

V-Card is refreshing, eye opening and, at times, a tad awkward, a description which perfectly captures university life. The radio play is what writer, director and co-producer Hall titles the “third incarnation.” After several setbacks last year, the impact of the pandemic resulted in the drama being adapted as a radio play. 

The play cracks the virginity myth wide open. Hazel (Ellie Fullwood), a third year student who has never had sex, and when Erin, her friend who seems to have more sex than essay deadlines, reveals this fact to the group during their ‘seshing hour’, Hazel puts the “future of [her] vagina” in the hands of her moronic friends. The complicated and sometimes tense group dynamic between Hazel the virgin, sexually active Erin, Nick who has a ‘literally real’ girlfriend, and Dylan, a guy who ‘obviously’ doesn’t hate women, is typical of a college household.  They set about finding someone for Hazel so that she loses her virginity before her twentieth birthday (a twenty-year-old virgin being significantly more pathetic than a nineteen-year-old one in their eyes)! 

In a radio drama the script becomes a powerful tool, and the dialogue is the glue which holds the play together. Alison Hall’s witty and punchy writing is the foundation of the play’s success, although the delivery can sometimes seem slightly forced and the responses inorganic. The awkward silences create tension during the many confrontations but the silences in the transitions between scenes can seem abrupt and confusing, a consequence of a stage-turned-radio drama. 

Fullwood perfectly captures the leading character’s embarrassment and insecurity when she lapses into a shaky, timid voice. Hazel ‘almost’ loses her V-Card with ‘Freaky Freddie’, a scene which is extremely awkward to listen to with its muffled sounds of kissing (more likely the slurping of the actors’ own hands) and Glyn Owen’s menacing tone. Such scenes are so awkward and well-executed that they didn’t need to be seen as well as heard; the actors succeeded in portraying the scenes vividly in the audience’s mind through vocal connection and intonation. 

Hazel’s moments of vulnerability are relatable and inject the hilarious drama with a hint of seriousness. There is an intimacy between Robin, the voice of reason and maturity in the play, and Hazel, who pours her heart out to her. In play where everything hinges on the actors’ expressions, it is remarkable how these two actors create a scene which is beautiful in its vulnerability with their voices alone. 

The drama blends realism with the supernatural and the booming voice of God is both absurd and impactful. The play is peppered with lighthearted Catholic fun but the religious connotations throughout are signals of the play’s desire to tackle more important issues. It is a realistic depiction of university life (well, pre-Covid life), but also of some of our ingrained ideals about sexuality. Dylan’s exclamation of ‘is that normal?’ when he discovers Hazel’s virginity is a laugh out loud moment infused with poignancy. The play confronts our assumptions and forces us to reflect on why anyone would question whether not having sex is ‘normal’. There is a tinge of didacticism throughout and Hall does more than provide an evening’s entertainment, sending listeners away with a lot to think about.   

The cast of V-Card refused to let Ms Corona steal the show. They created an immersive play of laughter, vulnerability and truth which was excellently adapted under the circumstances. While it’s a pity we couldn’t all cringe and skirm together during those tense sexual scenes (I’m talking about you, Freaky Freddie) and share in communal spurts of laughter, V-Card delivers in an absurd, refreshing and extraordinarily awkward sort of way. 

Benchmark

I wasn’t sure when we looked straight up

To the flag of sky over our heads

Whether that pattern of stars was already there –

Sewn sparks, set from the sun –

Or was woven from our own making.

.

Then the river, cloudless, with its slow-acting stillness

Threw back the fractals, glinted,

And brought in new shapes:

Orion’s necklace, Leo’s crown,

.

Points of reference. Sites for new renown, perhaps,

Play into our eyes with that self-same reminder –

We make our own maps.

.

And this bench, here in its present state

Exists only for its surroundings.

Worn branch, canal barge, autumn tree,

Bridge. Glance. Twist of fate.

.

The pattern starts from you to there

And, breathless, starts again with me.

.

You told me once under stations of starlight,

Spun me a thread that I can’t reel back

About a pattern, a series of shapes and signs,

Tiles upon tiles that carries on forever,

Sites and sights turning endlessly new.

.

That’s right here, up there,

All the things we can do.

Shallows upon depths, depths

Upon shallows, lights upon

Streets, skies beyond you.

All lies within reach the places we keep –

.

You can’t split the eye from the view.

You’ll See Him

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Rain cracks its whip

Against the windows. The wielder: autumn.

From the cottage in the cleft of the foothills

You can see a flickering light, just out of sight

And it stains the blackest night.

Crossroads covered with leaves, mourning the absence of 

Sleeping drunken youths.

They’re all sleeping by the fire in their blankets

Because it’s already dark.

Autumn’s fingers splattered with paint

From his fiery palette. He thinks he’s an artist, but in fact 

He’s chasing a dying year, a year rolling onto its back

Exhausted, too weary to perform any longer.

The fire will fall away into the skeleton.

Dawn and dusk are draped with mist

Rain every night, daggery sunbeams

Every morning.

Clouds stacked in the sky like a log fire –

These things go unnoticed in turmoil.

There’s a soft humming, a pulse that throbs underfoot

Long swallowed by the shriek of blurry Now.

It’s the same autumn

As watched by nobles in red silk

Surrounding their virgin queen;

The same autumn through which 

The horses of the light brigade thundered to inferno,

And flat-capped men dragged the motorcar

As they wrenched it into life.

It’s the same autumn, a fickle painter but

Not a forsaker.

You’ll see him every year.

Light the lamps. It will be so dark today, it will be so dark

It will feel like dusk all day.

Artwork by Charlotte Bunney.

The American Story Part 2: An unfinished Civil War

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In 1861, 11 southern states seceded from the Union, marking the beginning of the US Civil War. They
did so to prolong and expand the institution of slavery, which had long been in retreat across the
world. It was not uncommon for contemporaries to consider the conflict apocalyptically; indeed,
many Americans began to reevaluate their nations’ long-promised permanence. The historians
among us are nonetheless aware of America’s continued existence. But do we really know how it
still exists? After four years of bloody fighting over the existence of slavery, how did a nation pick
itself up and just—well—continue? Here, I posit that the notion of ‘the end of the American civil
war’ is problematic. When arms were laid down at Appomattox in 1865, the rhetoric and violence of
war hardly ceased. Next came a battle over history, the consequences of which were just as
destructive as the civil war itself.

Following the Civil War’s conclusion in 1865 and the abolition of slavery nationwide, polemicists
rushed to record the rights and wrongs of the previous 4 years. Almost immediately, Edward Pollard
published The Lost Cause (1866). Pollard’s ‘Lost Cause’ theory argued that the war was caused not
by slavery but by an overbearing Union government; that southern armies were never defeated, but
instead overwhelmed by brute force; that the enslaved were happy and loyal to their masters; and
that the southern soldier was brave and virtuous. The ‘Confederacy’ (with its identity as a
slaveocracy diminished) was entered into the annals of American history with these themes attached.
In the years surrounding the Civil War, a bitterly fought tug-of-war over the American historical
memory took place. Opposite sides insisted that their mission was the true expression of the
founding fathers’ hopes and intentions. The Confederacy was said to have fought for the principles
of the constitution, not against them; indeed, George Washington was the centre of the seal adopted
by the Confederacy in 1861
. Similarly, in 1896, the Confederate presidential mansion was
dedicated as a museum on George Washington’s birthday; one speaker labelled Washington the
‘first rebel president’. This deployment of America’s usable past provided Confederate Lost
Causism with crucial historical legitimacy.

The Confederates and their ancestors even created their own ‘Washington’, the leading Confederate
military General, Robert E. Lee. A ‘Lee cult’ evolved immediately after the general’s death in 1870
and from this beginning, Lee became the patron saint of the Lost Cause. As a paragon of manly
virtue and duty, Lee soared above politics and became a symbol for the ‘southern way of life’. Lee
henceforth evoked a Southern sense of pride; a soldierly honour; and, above all, a new sense of
racial mastery.

The South saw little challenge to their agenda, the national narrative was that of overwhelming,
exceptional reunion. One Northern paper wrote in 1913 of the ‘peculiar … feeling of reconciliation,
the spirit of nationality, which has developed since the close of hostilities
’. Integral to these 3
feelings of reconciliation was Northern acceptance of Lost Cause ideology. For Lost Cause
advocates, therefore, a narrative of defeat had become a narrative of triumph. If it is true that history
can only be written by winners, then it was the white South who won the American civil-war. Lost
Cause ideology henceforth found its home in textbooks, literature and movies—the legacy of which
America is still struggling to escape.

What is important here, however, is not what was remembered, but what was forgotten.
Increasingly, the idea that slavery caused the war became an impediment to the goal of
reconciliation. The African-American presence before, during, and after the war was hence
deemphasised to the point that it was destroyed. As The Christian Recorder observed in 1890, ‘The
poetry of the “Blue and the Gray” [Union and Confederate] is much more acceptable than the song
of the black and the white’. Underneath the celebrated feelings of reconciliation, therefore, existed
the preservation of a new ‘post-slavery’ white-supremacy. Southern states were free to pass a series
of ‘Black Codes’ that made African-Americans, as W.E.B Du Bois put it, “slaves in everything but
name
.” Following Lincoln’s assassination in 1865, his vice-president and the man who succeeded
him as president, Andrew Johnson, wrote to the Missouri Governor that “this is a country for white
men, and by God, as long as I am President, it shall be a government for white men.


Slavery was banished from the war’s causation and written out of American memory. The 1913
reunion at Gettysburg—50 years after the famous battle—provides an appropriate summary. At the
racially segregated event, which also happened to be held on ‘Independence Day’, President
Woodrow Wilson announced: “We have found one another again as brothers and comrades, in arms,
enemies no longer, generous friends rather, our battles long past, the quarrel forgotten—except that
we shall not forget the splendid valour, the manly devotion of the men then arrayed against one
another, now grasping hands and smiling into each other’s eyes.
” Perhaps this was moment the
American Civil War really ended—with handshakes, smiles and segregation. Once the 1913 reunion
was over the African-American run paper Washington Bee pointedly asked of the organisers, ‘A
reunion of whom?
’. Such a question demonstrates how fundamentally at odds black memories
were with the national reunion.

As America entered the 20th century, with white-supremacy reimagined as ‘Jim Crow’ politics, the
African-American community faced decisions over just how to compete for its place in America’s
collective memory. In 1963, James Baldwin optimistically wrote that ‘the American Negro has the
great advantage of having never believed that collection of myths to which white Americans cling’.
But to deny America’s historical myths is to deny America itself. How should African-Americans,
therefore, approach history? Should they remember their past or America’s invented ones? Should
they simply not look back?

Robert Penn Warren in his Legacy of the Civil War (1961) wrote, ‘somewhere in their bones’, most
Americans have a storehouse of ‘lessons’ drawn from the Civil War. Exactly what those lessons
are, and who determines them, was shaped directly by the decisions made in the decades following
the conflict. In America today the myth of Robert E. Lee is still immensely appealing to both
northerners and southerners; ten U.S. Army bases are still named in honour of Confederate generals;
the Confederate battle flag still flies across America, including in official capacities; statues of
Confederates still litter the American landscape; and 48% of Americans believe Edward Pollard’s
lie that the Confederacy was concerned with ‘states rights’ not slavery. Lost Cause ideology
retains a powerful grip on American popular imagination.

Although African-Americans have ‘the great advantage’ of having never believed these myths, they
have the great disadvantage of being their victim. The attempts to preserve and perpetuate
Confederate culture help explain how America has struggled to disengage itself from its culture
of segregation. Given this, we must extend our understanding of how historical memories are made
and how the dual forces of forgetting and misremembering provide the basis for nationalist
histories. The fight against injustice may or may not involve tearing down statues, but it certainly
involves tearing down what those statues represent—the romanticisation and reverence of distant
men and unknown pasts. In this task, I am reminded of Langston Hughes:


O, let America be America again—
The land that never has been yet—
And yet must be—the land where every man is free.

The US Supreme Court: a broken cycle

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Joe Biden is President, and it feels like this feverous nightmare is dimming into a more normal temperature nightmare. As the debris is cleared, and the final lawsuits dismissed, it has become time to start considering what exactly the new administration can do. And the answer, right now, is very little.

The Democrats remain with their slim majority in the House of Representatives, and with a good run in, Georgia could do the same in the Senate, yet across all positivity lies the shadow of one institution: the Supreme Court. Its nine gowned members hold in their hands the ability to limit legislation, and nothing is beyond their reach. The Affordable Healthcare Act, abortion rights, even voting rights, all seem threatened by the new 6-3 conservative majority.

This forces questions at the very heart of liberal democracy. Should this unelected institution be allowed to strike down laws that are supported by the population, and thoroughly supported at that? What gives them the right, what gives them legitimacy, to overrule the majority of the nation?

‘Now hold on there!’ gasps the centrist, clutching their pearls and PPE degree, ‘we can’t just start politicising the courts! The first thing even the most casual dictator will do is pack the supreme court, and besides, if we do it, so can the opposition when they’re next in power.’ Institutions must be respected, norms followed, and the virtuous cycle continued. 

And yet that virtuous cycle is not being continued – it is a cycle that wasn’t properly locked up and has had its front wheel stolen. Republicans have time and time again shown no regard for norms or institutions. They stopped Obama nominating a supreme court justice as a lame duck president, only to have a change of heart when it was Trump’s turn. They have used the filibuster to stop nomination proceedings, leading to the ‘nuclear option’ rendering it a useless tool. They ask vote-counters to throw out certain sets of ballots, while decrying the risk of voter fraud. Without serious reforms, there will be no end.

The Supreme Court has always been a political institution. It is only in recent years that some veneer of ‘apoliticallity’ has emerged. It has almost always been the case that judges were admitted as much for their political leanings as their judicial abilities. The best decider for whether a judge would be admitted was not their skill with a gavel, but whether the Senate matched up with the President. The lack of separation has even been such that a president, Taft, following his presidency, went on to become Chief Justice. The court holds immense power, and politics is the operation of power – of course it would be political.

This is not to say that the court should be packed. The virtuous cycle is a real phenomenon, and a return to it would be ideal. But we must accept that right now, the court is not so much an independent legal body, but an upper-upper house, representing not the nation, but ability of old judges to hang on until the next president of their leaning comes along. Reform is needed, and it is needed soon. It is easy enough to say that if we vote against them in enough elections, Republicans will change their tune. But for those who risk death if they lose their healthcare, or are forced into terrible decisions as their right to choose is ripped away, time is of the essence. For the life of its democracy, and the lives of its citizens, America must reform its Supreme Court.

Investigation: Toxic Chemical in University Hand Sanitisers

Relisan hand sanitiser, purchased by Oxford University for use in its facilities, has been found to contain a synthetic fragrance called butylphenyl methylpropional, also known as lilial, which has been banned by the EU.

The European Chemical Agency states that lilial “is harmful to aquatic life with long lasting effects, is suspected of damaging fertility or the unborn child, causes skin irritation and may cause an allergic skin reaction.” Lilial is also under assessment as endocrine disrupting. This means that it is suspected of negatively interfering with hormonal systems and triggering developmental consequences for humans and animals.

In June 2019, the European Chemicals Agency reclassified lilial’s reproductive toxicity from Category 2 to Category 1B, meaning that lilial must now carry a label saying that it “may damage fertility and is suspected of damaging the unborn child”, and in August 2020 the EU formally banned lilial, meaning that all manufacturers must remove it from their formulae by March 2022.

The EU decision states: “Article 15 of the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR) prohibits substances classified as Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic (CMR) under the CLP Regulation from being used in cosmetic products, unless a specific exemption is granted.” It goes on to add that butylphenyl methylpropional, which is classified as Reprotoxic, “does not meet the criteria for exemption”.

Whilst it might be the case that the UK does not choose to comply with this law under a free trade agreement, a special government report in 2019 on Toxic Chemicals in Everyday Life recommended that the UK government should “set targets for the elimination of endocrine disrupting chemicals from consumer products”. The government pledged its commitment to uphold the EU legislation on restricted chemicals, stating: “The preparations that have been made for our exit from the EU ensure that equivalent levels of protection will be replicated under an independent UK chemicals regime, UK REACH.”

The recent EU ban highlights the dangers of continued use of this chemical, and with the increased precautions students and staff are having to take when entering University buildings as a result of the pandemic, many could be exposing themselves to it on a daily basis.

A spokesperson from the University said: “The University reviewed the safety data sheets for all the hand sanitisers it procured centrally to ensure compliance with current legislation and safety standards. These data sheets did not reveal the presence of butylphenyl methylpropional in Relisan as a substance hazardous to health. In compliance with current legislation suppliers are only required to highlight within their safety data sheets if any chemical in the product exceeds any prescribed levels for substances hazardous to health.”

However, the presence of butylphenyl methylpropional in Relisan is evident from the ingredient list on the bottles of sanitiser themselves, despite it not appearing on the data sheets. Moreover, there is no EU-determined level of safe exposure for lilial in cosmetics. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety in May 2019 stated that while “on an individual product basis” butylphenyl methylpropional with alpha tocopherol at 200ppm, “can be considered safe when used as fragrance ingredient in different cosmetic leave-on and rinse-off type products”, when considering the “first-tier deterministic aggregate exposure, arising from the use of different product types together, butylphenyl methylpropional at the proposed concentrations cannot be considered as safe.”

A spokesperson for Reliance Medical Ltd., the manufacturer of Relisan, told Cherwell: “Our fragrance supplier is already working on the alternative formulation, so the BMHCA will be removed from our products by the 1st of March 2022. At this moment the level of this chemical in the gel is 0.025%”. They did not comment on why butylphenyl methylpropional did not appear on the product’s data sheets.

The University spokesperson added: “The University periodically reviews the products it procures to support its operations and there are currently no plans for further purchases of Relisan. As part of its normal due diligence processes the University will continue to review the safety data sheets provided for all products it procures centrally to support its operations.” However, they did not comment on how widespread the use of this brand of hand sanitiser already is throughout the University.

Companies are therefore still able to get away with not listing lilial on their data sheets, and the removal of this chemical is not required in cosmetic products until 2022, but it is still clear that Oxford University should reconsider their decision to distribute a hand sanitiser containing a chemical with proven adverse effects. To top it off, Relisan hand sanitiser also contains Propylene Glycol, which was granted the dubious honour of being named the American Contact Dermatitis Society’s Allergen of the Year for 2018.

While the University is clearly not breaking any laws by purchasing this brand of sanitiser, it is also not putting enough consideration into the health and safety of its staff and students when making decisions about which products to buy for its facilities.

Soil: On Digging a Hole

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The crunch as my trowel bites the soil is Heaney-esque.

I stoop low, hands buried in cool dirt

and the sky blooms blue

like an eggshell washed in old paint water.

I sink my knees into the clay and bend over like a cat

amongst the daffodils with their heads tipped up like tiny crowns

under a bush spread out like a huge green hand.

The yellow plastic of my raincoat crinkles.

A worm has beaten me to the hole I’m digging;

when I pull apart the soil, I find

a slender punctuation mark in the mud.

Its pink body threads through the dark clay.

Sometimes it is hard to dig a hole,

to look at what is not and replace it with what will be,

when the earth opens up, only to reveal

that something is already there.

I stay in the garden digging holes only to fill them up

until the lingering birthday-candle smell of a 

bonfire blows in from next door

and the sun, a waxy flare, sets in the butter-white sky.

Artwork by Rachel Jung.