Tuesday 24th June 2025
Blog Page 554

Mahi Joshi takes Union Presidency

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Mahi Joshi will be Union President in Trinity Term 2020, with her ‘Imagine’ slate taking all four Officer positions. Union Librarian Joshi won with 551 first preferences to Chengkai Xie’s 448, meeting quota in the first round.

Candidates on the ‘Imagine’ slate also secured the positions of Librarian-Elect (Harry Deacon), Treasurer-Elect (Jack Solomon), and Secretary (Melanie Onovo). Onovo also met quota in the first round with 560 first preferences.

Standing Committee was uncontested, with all seven candidates, four from ‘Imagine’ and three from ‘Clean Slate’, elected. Geneva Roy, also of the ‘Imagine’ slate was elected first, with 177 first preferences, with ‘Imagine’ candidates occupying the first three elected positions.

The election of Mahi Joshi as President of the Oxford Union comes after a turbulent term of Union politics, with the resignation of President Brendan McGrath over the treatment of blind student Ebenezer Azamati after his removal from the No-Confidence debate earlier this term. The scandal lead to the resignations of numerous senior staff and officers, including Presidential candidate and ex-Secretary Chengkai Xie.

Speaking to Cherwell about the result, Mahi Joshi said: “It is an honour to have been elected. In the aftermath of what has been an incredibly challenging term, my team and I hope to bring about institutional change in the Union by reforming access policy and provision, transparency and communication.

“We are optimistic about the Union’s future, and are so thankful to everyone who came out in support of us and our vision.”

Chengkai Xie declined to comment on the result at this time.

Those members elected will be expected to follow through with the pledges made in their manifestos. The ‘Imagine’ slate’s pledges include a restructuring of access committee and reserved accessible seating, as well as reforming the disciplinary procedures as well as staff access training and DBS checks. ‘Imagine’ also promises a ‘green Union’, with vegan options in the bar, banning plastic cups and introducing recycling bins.

The ‘Clean’ slate claimed that it would review a policy change on inclusion and staff relation as well as have Presidential open hours and to introduce a welfare officer. Clean slate also pledged access prices for socials as well as an environmental impact review.

Mahi Joshi, Harry Deacon and Jack Solomon will serve their terms as officers in Trinity Term 2020, while the Secretary Melanie Onovo will assume her post next term in Hilary.

Battle of Britain Pilot to be Commemorated by Trinity College

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Trinity College commemorated WWII veteran alumnus Richard Hillary on Thursday with an archival exhibition titled “Richard Hillary: his Life and Legacy”, followed by a drinks reception and two short lectures.

Hillary was born in Australia to British parents, and was sent back to England for school at the age of seven. He arrived at Oxford in 1937, and became well-known for leading Trinity to victory in rowing in 1938.

In 1939 Hillary put his degree on hold to join the Oxford University Air Squadron and enlist in military service, training as an RAF pilot. He was posted to No. 603 Squadron RAF in July 1940, and entered combat later that summer, flying a Supermarine Spitfire to counter German bombardment.

After many successful runs targeting German aircrafts, on 3 September 1940 Hillary’s plane was shot down by a Messerschmitt Bf 109, leading him to parachute into the North Sea. He was rescued by a lifeboat and taken for medical treatment in London, where he became the patient of pioneering New Zealand surgeon Archibald McIndoe.

The crash left him badly burned in his hands and face, and even three months after surgery he was still deemed too disfigured for public appearances. While in London Hillary began drafting a memoir of his experiences in the Battle of Britain, and after persuading British authorities to send him to America, he published the manuscripts under the title The Last Enemy in 1942.

Widely regarded as one of the best pieces of war nonfiction to come out of the Second World War, The Last Enemy was well-received, and Hillary embarked on a promotional tour in America; however, although he often spoke on the radio, he never met readers in person.

The Last Enemy has never gone out of print, and is still read by many. 2019 marks the centenary of Hillary’s birth, and at on Thursday Trinity opened an archival exhibition featuring historical documents surrounding Hillary’s life and legacy.

Trinity College’s spokesperson stated that the college is “very excited to be celebrating his legacy in college and especially hope that students will be interested in learning more about what the wartime experience for those of Hillary’s generation was like – both at Oxford and beyond.”

Writer David Haycock and Professor Dinah Birch then each delivered a short lecture, the former discussing “Eric Kennington: The Painter Behind the Portrait of Richard Hillary” and the latter’s talk titled “Richard Hillary and the Last Enemy”.

After spending time in the United States, Richard Hillary returned to the RAF, though he never regained complete control of his hands. He switched to piloting light bomber aircraft at RAF Charterhall.

On 8 January 1943, while training for night flight in adverse weather conditions, Hillary crashed a Bristol Blenheim bomber into Berwickshire, Scotland and died in the accident. He is remembered at Trinity as one of its most celebrated alumni, with a portrait outside its library.

The Richard Hillary Memorial Lecture is given at Trinity every year, with past lecturers including Phillip Pullman, Carol Ann Duffy, Simon Armitage, and Tom Stoppard. In addition, each year Trinity runs the Richard Hillary Writing Competition and awards 500 pounds to the best creative writing piece under 3000 words.

Children give feedback on Oxford hospitals

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Results from the 2018 Children and Young People’s Patient Experience Survey for Oxford University Hospitals was released last week.

The survey questioned children aged 15 days to 15 years, and their parents about their experiences at Oxford University hospitals.

With a response rate of about 33 per cent, 401 patients from the trust submitted surveys.

For the majority of questions asked, the Oxford Trust performed about the same as other trusts surveyed. On eleven of the 47 questions asked, the Oxford Trust scored in the top twenty percent of trusts surveyed. The trust scored in the bottom twenty percent on four questions.

The Trust scored worse than most other trusts on one question. The question asked the parents of children aged 15 days to 7 years whether members of staff communicated with children in ways in which the child could understand.

Oxford University hospitals scored a 7.1 out of ten on this question – the worst score in England was 6.9 and the highest was 9.6. 32 per cent of responses were from patients aged up to 7 years old and 31 per cent of responses were from patients aged 8 to 11 years.

The age group with the largest response was patients aged 12 to 15, with 149 responses. For all age groups, parents of patients were asked questions about their child’s experiences, and children aged 8 to 15 also submitted their own responses about their experiences with the Trust.

Parents and caretakers rated the care as an average 8.7 out of ten and 96 per cent said the staff were friendly. Sam Foster, Chief Nursing Officer told the Oxford Mail: “We welcome patient feedback and this national survey is a good way of measuring ourselves against other hospitals and our own performance in previous years. We are committed to work together to continue to improve the experience of care for children and young people.

“We work all year round with a young patient group, YiPpEe, which focuses on improving children’s and young people’s experiences in our hospitals.

“We will be taking a report on the results of this survey to our Board and making recommendations about how best to use the useful feedback to improve our services, working with staff and YiPpEe.”

Overall, 86 per cent of parents and caretakers said their overall experience was positive and 94 per cent of children said they were looked after “very or quite well” in the hospital.

Improvements were advised in changing of admission dates, staff communication with children, food served, and noise levels at night. In addition to the survey questions, respondents gave comments about the hospitals.

Oxford Migrant Solidarity calls for more inclusive access policy

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Oxford Migrant Solidarity hung a banner of solidarity from the Bridge of Sighs on November 23, as an act to demand equal access to education for migrant students and end complicity in the Home Office’s Hostile Environment policy.

“We’re doing this direct action to call attention to the university’s discriminatory access policy towards students with unsettled status, so that includes people with temporary or limited leave to remain,” said Philomena Willis, chair of Oxford Migrant Solidarity.

Students with unsettled status or limited leave to remain face issues due to the ‘Hostile Environment’ policy, a measure first introduced in 2010 to make remaining in the UK as difficult as possible for migrants, which Wills says has been achieved through issues such as unsafe accommodation and a lack of job opportunities.  

The university recently announced a refugee scholarship, decided upon in the education committee’s October meeting, a move which follows the creation of a set of student-led initiative to pilot refugee scholarships in 2016. A university spokesperson earlier commented: “The university is now working with interested parties to create a longer-term sustainable scheme to support students who are forced migrants. We hope to launch this new scholarship later in the academic year,” adding that the pilot scheme would remain open until the new programme is launched. 

 Wills called the new scholarship “a great step in the right direction,” but said this was contradicted by the fact that “students with unsettled status are still charged international student fees and there’s just an overall lack of financial administrative support.” 

Wills added: “We’re calling on the university to change its policy because if it’s really dedicated to access it has to ensure that they include migrant students as people who are systemically discriminated and targeted by the Home Office and the Hostile Environment.” 

The group said they had spoken to student immigration authorities and were trying to set up a meeting with staff immigration authorities, especially given the impact Brexit might have on the future of migrant staff in Oxford.

The banner drop, which took place at 12 pm, was a coordinated event with other universities across the country, including York, Loughborough and Liverpool among others. However, after less than fifteen minutes the students removed the banner, following a request from the domestic bursar of Hertford College, which owns the Bridge of Sighs. 

In a list of demands, Oxford Migrant Solidarity said the university had to “classify students with unsettled status as home students for fees purposes,” as well as “provide a comprehensive advice page on its website for students seeking information about their immigration status,” and that it had to commit to “never invite Immigration Enforcement onto its premises.” 

The action followed a rally a week earlier, organised in collaboration with the Oxford Climate Justice Campaign, the Oxford Living Wage Campaign and the student union Campaign for Racial Awareness and Equality (CRAE) as well as the student union Disabilities Campaign. The event aimed to present the demands to the Vice-Chancellor, Louise Richardson, and to “rally for intersectional justice”.

Interview: Richard Ratcliffe

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I take Richard Ratcliffe to Bill’s Restaurant, just opposite the Oxford Union, where he has just given a talk. He is energised, the heavy topics so far covered have done little to wear him down.

He tells me that when he first started speaking to the media about his wife, he was very cautious not to say anything potentially ‘wrong’, for want of a better word; but now that he has been doing this for so long, he realises that there is very little he can say that will actually result in disaster. The strategy is to remain honest and reliable.

He explains that since his wife’s predicament became a national news story, the press has been trying to get as much information as possible from all sides, the British Foreign Office, the Iranian side, etc. But through his consistent honesty and openness to the press, they now realise that he is a trusted source. The British Foreign Office hasn’t exactly lied, but they have withheld information on purpose at various points.

He contends, there is no ‘right’ thing to say really. ‘It’s kind of a shadow cave, where you’re seeing different reflections of a story and you’re making sense of it all. You only ever get parts of the whole picture. Not least because the workings of the Iranian regime is so opaque. It is a constant struggle between different factions within the regime and a constant effort to detect which bit one hears is propaganda and which bit is their genuine opinion of what is going on. You sometimes get to a stage where you think they are believing their own lies.’

His drink arrives and interrupts that train of thought. Rather playfully, he ordered a soft drink concoction named ‘Black Magic’. It has a mix of blackberries, blackcurrants, cherry, blueberry, banana, apple juice and activated charcoal. It certainly has the colour of charcoal. He flippantly ponders over whether his tongue will turn dark at the end of this interview, and chuckles at the prospect.

The man in front of me looks very sincere, and the soft lighting in the restaurant has softened his features. He is even more energised, evidenced by more lively body gestures as he speaks.

I ask if he thinks the fact that human rights are not established as an important concept in the current Iranian public psyche has contributed to the sense of bewilderment in the Iranian regime’s reaction to the outcry in the West.

‘I think yes. I think we’re all prisoners of our own understanding and our own experience. The Iranian media is very firmly controlled by their government. So if someone is very prominently featured in the British media, then the Iranian regime would automatically assume that they have got British government backing, by definition.’

‘And it also works the other way round, of course. So we all think of their leaders as more like our leaders. But they are different. So by their view, if you’re always on the television of another country, then you must be important to their government. And that’s how they operate in the hostage taking business.’

‘To be fair, it’s part of the British government’s approach to be disinterested, to downplay it. Imagine if you were trying to buy a Turkish carpet, you wouldn’t say “I really must have this carpet, because it’s amazing”; because then the price asked of you will go right up. So you instead go, “Maybe I will get a carpet, maybe not. I might be interested in what the other shops are selling.”

And that’s kind of like the dynamic where we’re saying “Nazanin’s really important. We have to get her back immediately.” And I am going out there saying that.

But I think with the way that politicians work here in the UK, is that they don’t do macro-policy.

So when the media ask “please tell us how you’re feeling”, it means “please tell us you’re a miserable human sufferer. And another thing they do is asking you “please tell us what you’d like the British government to do”, which means “please tell us they’ve been shit”.

So if you think about the three angles to our story in the press – number one is “Iran has Nazanin – so bad guys”. Number two is useless and incompetent British government. And the third one is suffering family. Sometimes noble family, sometimes suffering family.’

We both chuckle a bit at the absurdity of the situation. His face lightens up. He is rather pleased that he has so far resisted the effort to confine his story to these three boxes. I find it difficult to verbalise my emotions in the moment. Here sitting in front of me is a man who has clearly been through enough, and he has to fight the additional battle of getting his perspective accurately represented in the news stories. His ability to take his struggles with a lightness of touch is perhaps a shining example of human endurance and the ability to reconcile with greater forces outside of one’s control with courage, conviction and last but certainly not the least, an ability to poke fun at oneself to make the situation bearable.

‘They all want the personal story, the emotional connections their audience can readily make. The politicians want to say “here is this heartbroken, distressed husband going on hunger strike in front of the embassy of an oppressive regime”. Everyone gets that. “It’s because he is unhappy, it’s because she’s in prison. And the Iranian government is causing it.”

And the politicians, they come down, and basically the questions they’d ask are just two – “How is Nazanin?” “What more can the government do?” That’s it!’

I ask if this becomes an emotional burden for Richard at times, because one cannot be emotionally available all the time,. Additionally, in the face of such emotional upheaval, being emotionally available all the time must be draining. I ask if he understandably does not feel eager to discuss his feelings about the stressful events of what is essentially his private, personal life. I wonder how much he has adapted to accommodate the media attention whilst having a sustainable emotional existence and getting his messages across effectively.

I observe that Richard does not seem like the emotionally demonstrative type. He is soft-spoken, reserved and dignified.

Richard is keen to agree. ‘At the beginning, you know, the thing I learnt is that you could only be yourself. And I remember at the very beginning of finding it all very hard, dealing with questions of how I was feeling; because I bottled it all up.

It’s a way of coping, right? This is horrible stuff. I mean, the more I look at it, the more I feel bloody horrible. So, I’d rather not look at it, you know?’

He speeds up as he speaks, and his previous boyish smile vanishes.

We observe it’s an inevitable part of one’s emotional response to trauma. The inescapability from the horribleness can be enfeebling.

He refers to a member in the Oxford Union audience, who spoke about his brother’s escape from Iran through bribing human traffickers. ‘You go into battle mode. And then you rest. That’s what a lot of soldiers do. And then in their seventies, they look back at their war experiences and suddenly realise the scale of trauma imprinted on them. The dawning happens much later on. But one has to bear in mind that these soldiers returned from battle and proceeded to live a productive civilian life. They didn’t want to be reminded of all that horribleness. They want to be reminded that there is a life worth living.’

‘I am in battle mode. At the very beginning, I got critiqued by journalists who said “Can you not be more open?” And the honest answer was “I can’t”. You have to just be yourself. And it is trustworthy when you are. And we’re all prisoners of our own personalities, right? I am where I am (emotionally) and that’s just the way it is.’

‘There are certain advantages in that I am reasonably stubborn, and I am of a stern temperament. During the early stages, stuff would happen, and I would get up to talk about it on the telly. The emotions wouldn’t hit me until four, five days later when I was sitting alone in my house and suddenly I would go “Wow, shit!” And that was how I got on with it and did my job.

Now my in-laws are desperate, they’re full of tears. That’s the natural response when you have to make sense of that fact that there is nothing you can do to help your imprisoned daughter.

I am having this battle now, which is broadly holding the government to account. Because a dual-nationality British citizen is being taken hostage. And we cant have governments like Iran treating people like this and getting away with it’

We touch upon the backwardness of the Iranian regime. Ed Hussain’s recent best-seller ‘The House of Islam’ reminds our generation how Iran used to be a beacon of modernity and tolerance in the Middles East just decades ago. Richard jumps in,

‘There is something ultra-modern about Iran’s hostage taking practice. I worry about how we’re getting more insular. If you think about political debates, whether it’s Brexit, Israel with its wars or whether it’s Iran essentially locking up its people who also have a foreign passport. There is a retreat into an enclave. Whatever it is, the volatility of the contemporary/modern world, where you have the modernisation of societies through ideas, the ideas spawn by the French Revolution, is making people more intolerant. The slogan “Let’s go back to the good, old days” encapsulates the sentiment of what a lot of countries are doing.

The hostage-taking business is to do with the religious fundamentalists who want to interpret the Koran literally and impose Islamic Fundamental Laws, not the guy running the kebab shop down your road. For me, the world is not becoming a safer place by us all isolating ourselves from others. The world is made a safer place through contact and understanding. And you know understanding is messy and sometimes it ends up as not understanding and it’s frustration and all the rest of it. 

One of the things that I think is frustrating with the Iran-UK engagement is that both national consulates have been trying to wash Nazanin off their hands. The British one insists that she is Iranian, therefore making her imprisonment an internal affair. Their Iranian counterpart maintains that she is British and uses her as a pawn. What they should have done is to say “she’s yours but she’s ours as well. So fuck off!” And the acknowledgement that they will treat each other’s citizens with respect. She is a citizen of the world.’

We move on to how Nazanin’s doing. Richard divulges that her situation has worsened since their daughter, Gabriella’s return to the UK recently. ‘What has kept her going so far is the hope that she can get out in time for us to have another child. We have different coping mechanisms. I am an optimist, and strangely enough, I have constant hope that she can be released soon. But I realise that this may not be the reality and I have been hurt by false hopes before. So I got out and campaign. I go on hunger strikes. It’s a different story for Nazanin, she doesn’t have that much hope and she is not sure how much longer she can survive without hope. Her second sentence means she will not be able to have a second child. She has already been on two hunger strikes, and the second one considerably longer than the first one. She is planning another hunger strike if she is not released by the time around Christmas. Now, there is a physical limit to how long one can survive on a hunger strike. You can only go on for so long before it becomes fatal or causes permanent damage to your body. And with the third strike, Nazanin will reach that point. I fear the worst. I understand why she is doing this, because it has kind of worked before and she feels like she has to do something to get the Revolutionary Guards’ attention. It is not my job to tell her what to do even though I obviously does not want to lose her. So it’s my job as a husband to accept her decision.’

Richard has finished his drink. As he rightly predicted, the charcoal has rubbed off his tongue. It is difficult to describe the emotions manifesting on his face but what is notable is the piercing sense of determination. One gets the sense that this is not the first time he has harboured similar fears, and yet he stays more resilient and more determined to fight on.

Trashy Treasure – The power and politics of sexualised clothes for women throughout the ages

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“We are not special. We are not crap or trash, either. We just are. We just are, and what happens just happens.”

“Trash” in 1555 was used to describe unwanted materials: “A carpenter’s yarde, wherein he dothe laye his tymber and Trasshe.” Similarly, using the word trash to describe “unwanted” people is not a new phenomenon. However, the people to whom the word refers to have changed over time as society decides what is or isn’t useful, what it desires itself to consist of. To refer to an individual with the adjective “trashy” however, (“worthless, disreputable”) has been predominantly applied to women in the modern age based on those aspects of behaviour or dress which seemingly seek to undermine the unspoken laws of conservative society.

The archetypes of women – the whore, the virgin, the mother and so forth – have been applied to categorise and objectify women for hundreds of years, and their clothes provided a means by which to do this. Since the biblical fall of Adam and Eve, nakedness has been equated with sin, but the female enticing the male to eat the forbidden fruit and thereby gain knowledge of his nakedness has been used to politicise the female body much more so than the male. This, and the fact that women are the child-bearers of society has led to their being seen as commodities, whose virtue or whoredom affects all of society.

Expressions like “a wolf in sheep’s clothing” are examples of the historical significance of clothing in either seeking to hide and shroud one’s inner being in a disguise, or to manifest it. A person’s clothes then become an extension of themselves and society is indignant towards the ability of clothes to deceive. If a person is dressed as something they aren’t or whether those are their “real” clothes must be discerned by the onlooker. In wearing different clothes the modern woman appropriates the archetypes of women (the whore, the virgin etc) and decides which of them to dress up as, therefore disseminating the notion that women are confined to one archetype at a time. If someone dresses as a virgin one day and a whore the next, those who categorise them as such are unable to discern which is their true guise, thus the ability of women to dress as they please is a means of self expression, liberation, and freedom from tyranny, disseminating women AS stereotypes, or indeed, women AS their clothes, and transcending arbitrary notions of “the” woman. Clothes are therefore used as a means of transformation. As seen in literature depicting oppressive regimes, such as The Handmaid’s Tale, the clothes are intrinsic to the being:

“[The Commander] goes on. ‘Women know that instinctively. Why did they buy so many different clothes, in the old days? To trick the men into thinking they were several different women. A new one each day.”

“‘So now that we don’t have different clothes,’ I say, ‘you merely have different women.’”

Ultimately the naked human body retains both differences and similarities to those of the same sex. Clothes are both a means by which to distinguish between peoples and also a means by which to make them appear the same.  If our clothes provide meaning through expression of personality, who are we without them? When we think we’re able to manipulate the stereotypes by becoming different people are we in fact adhering to the fetishisation of women’s bodies as interchangeable and depersonalised? If the clothes define the person, and people are dressed the same due to fashion trends, this feeds into the idea of a woman who can fit into any mould, in keeping with medieval notions of beauty in which women must represent a multitude of women in order to satisfy male desire, which still exists to this day, contributing to the mythologising of women not as people but as a fantasy. Sir Walter Raleigh wrote of Elizabeth the First:

“I that was wont to behold her riding like Alexander, hunting like Diana, walking like Venus, the gentle wind blowing her fair hair about her pure cheeks like a nymph, sometime sitting in the shade like a Goddess, sometime singing like an angel, sometime playing like Orpheus; behold! the sorrow of this world once amiss hath bereaved me of all.”

The body of women continues to mean more politically than the body of men, and thus so does the way they dress. The fashion industries for women thrive on the ability to both dictate trends which undermine a woman’s position in society, thereby adhering to the status quo, and also mass market products that change the political atmosphere. What women wear has had a deeper significance through the ages than it would appear. Clothing represents appearance, guise: the politics of each decade have represented liberties and restraints on women through dress. The liberation of the 60s was both freedom and oppression. The freedom to wear short skirts and the oppression of mass marketing through the media, telling women to buy cosmetics and become image obsessed. Though women had the ability to take control of their own bodies by wearing clothes that were perceived as more provocative, this also adhered to their sexualisation and objectification, something that has recurred in this modern age.

Is it possible to retain individuality in a society in which media, advertising and mass marketing skew our perception of what is fashionable, and therefore what we should or should not wear to express ourselves? What’s fashionable is what everyone else is wearing, but what does that say politically? Clothes are in fact commercialising women: taking away their individuality – clothes cease to be tools of expression but become tools of subjection, reducing their worth, and making them interchangeable. With the high speed at which companies must keep up with new demands, most new clothes end up discarded within a short period of their purchase, and therefore literally become trash. Many of the newer products from online retailers are made from cheap materials in order to maintain this constant cycle. So when women are wearing cheap clothes, society, whose opinion is based on men, thus dains them cheap. The disposability of clothes becomes the disposability of the women that wear them, if women are “labelled” as extensions of self-presentation, they can be put on and taken off at will, by the men that dictate what is or isn’t fashionable. To be fashionable is to be new, and to be out of fashion is to be discarded. That we wear different clothes every day necessitates their continuous availability. To what extent are we wearing the clothes or the clothes wearing us? If one is what one wears, the “trashy” trends are in fact a desire to manipulate women into conforming to the over sexualised stereotypes of the woman as a temptress – almost harkening all the way back to Eve and Adam. The indoctrination of adverts, intrinsic to a consumer society, may in fact also be maintaining a women’s supposedly inferior position. Clothes are sold as objects to buy or sell to meet demands as women buy and sell these objects to meet the demands of society, ironically leading to their own objectification. Are we using the fashion industry to buy clothes or is the fashion industry using us to sell them? To what extent does choice in fashion exist?

On the other hand, reinventing the meaning of the word “trash” is the same as appropriating seemingly “trashy” clothes to make them something else: turning trash into treasure. If mass markets dictate that short skirts are fashionable then by wearing them a woman doesn’t have to conform to the notion of them as provocative. If a woman’s body was no longer politicised a short skirt would mean no more than a man wearing a t-shirt. The notion of trashiness is one that rests on presumptions that the clothes one wears define one’s personality, but we ourselves define what we are, and what the clothes we wear represent. The politicisation of the female body is intrinsic to an understanding of why the way women dress has been described as “trashy” and therefore, by implication, undesirable – to whom? And why? To paraphrase the saying that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure (because who cares what men think) – trash IS treasure! To say otherwise is to fall into societal stereotypes that have aimed to reduce the worth of women throughout time. What is or isn’t useful or of value is not based on the item itself but on the viewer’s perception of that item.

H&M x Giambattista Valli is a fast fashion renaissance

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On November 7, shoppers rushed to H&M flagships worldwide and feverishly refreshed their browsers in anticipation of the Giambattista Valli x H&M main collection drop. Following the line’s successful debut at the amfAR gala in Cannes this past May and the rave reviews emerging from its October 24 fashion show, the virtual and physical stampedes practically wrote themselves into the stars. Within an hour, the collaboration’s intricate and showstopping designs sold out on the high street retailer’s website and hordes vacated the high street stores.

In an interview with Vogue last month, the Italian-born, Paris-based designer perfectly summarized his aesthetic approach to the collaboration: “I like the idea of H&M in front of a Caravaggio.” And he did exactly that. At the collaboration’s show two weeks ago, Kendall Jenner modeled Valli’s signature ruffles with the Caravaggio oils of Rome’s Palazzo Doria Paphilj as her backdrop. The baroque painter seems well suited to the H&M collaboration: just as he sought to render his paintings more relatable by depicting real people in modern dress as models for divine subjects, Valli makes his artform more accessible by trading in plissé tulle for polyester. Caravaggio’s bold reds imbued his canvases with intensity juxtaposed against dark tenebrism just as the dramatic red ruffles in which Kendall Jenner walked shone like a bastion of ultrafeminine power and grace amidst what we might call a bleak present. Nicknamed “Project Love,” the collaboration was conceived with the intention of bringing happiness to consumers internationally, and in this, it succeeds. As its hem suggests, the “Long Tulle Dress” (retailing at £299.99) has high-low appeal, conceivably the reason it has been the centerpiece of the collaboration. The tulle dress’s dynamic length, tapered waste, and plunging V-neck all evidence Valli’s dazzling red-carpet style via the high street. Other standout pieces include the “Ball Dress,” a black gown with enchanting floral embroidery (£249.99) and the “Chiffon Dress,” a white frock with cascading pleats and a dreamy print (£139.99). Valli also designed t-shirts (£24.99) and even a two-pack pair of socks (£12.99) in keeping with H&M’s wide range of offerings.

In a recent interview with the Telegraph, Valli said of the line, “My idea was for you to look at a dress and think it is just as good, it just has different ingredients. Very good pizza is not worse than very good caviar, you know?” While Mr. Valli’s final comparison can place the fashion industry into the murky waters of taking street style staples like sneakers or jeans and attaching their label to justify the addition of several zeros to the sum, the notion of appreciating good style resonates with high street and haute couture customers alike. Deft needlework and sumptuous fabrics may be synonymous with quality fashion pieces; yet, Giambattista Valli x H&M perhaps gets at fashion’s very essence: clothes without the mannequin. In other words, Valli’s designs are so compelling that they win admiration from all shoppers on account of their sheer artistry, even if they lack the traditional trappings of a high fashion designation.

Remember, Remember Your Duty to Remember

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Comfort is not what we expect from theatre. If it were, we wouldn’t be paying for tickets just to sit in a cramped seat in a crowded room for 1-3 hours, when we could be relaxing in our own, pillow-padded rooms with Netflix and the ability to go to the loo whenever we wanted. If it were, Shakespeare’s Globe would be the worst theatre in existence, and King Learthe most disagreeable play. But no—we go to the theatre, at the expenses of our bladders, bottoms, and sometimes pockets, to be motivated, stimulated, and affected. To be induced to think and feel. Such impact is one of the most charming aspects of theatre. 

But the impact itself is not always charming; sometimes it disturbs us and makes us uncomfortable. And sometimes it prompts us to look into the face of things, important things, that we try to forget and leave behind, or even are pained by. Like a wake-up call, an alarm we didn’t know we needed until it starts ringing. 

When I visited London in the summer of 2018, I did think of getting a ticket to the National’s production ofTranslations, but for some reason I can’t remember decided not to. Then I forgot about it. Same year, in December: I was back in England for my interview at Oxford. Just a few days before my memorable—but I will not digress—interview week, I saw The Height of the Storm, written by Florian Zeller and starring Jonathan Pryce and Eileen Atkins, at the Wyndham’s Theatre. I had already spoilt myself by reading the play beforehand, so knew what to expect. But the parts of me that it touched were completely unexpected—and where they touched me, they left a strong, burning mark. 

The Height of the Stormdeals with many things, but its most captivating aspect is its wretchedly teasing ambiguity on either Andre or Madeleine’s widowhood. Until its very last moment, the play provides no definite answer to the question: who is the widow/widower, Andre or Madeline? Or are they both alive, despite the play’s persistent hinting at a loss in the family? In either case, the stage of The Height of the Stormis constantly haunted by the past and the dead, at the same time blurring the line between past/present and dead/alive. The past lives with and within us, coexists with us, affects us. Andre says, “You think people are dead, but that’s not always the case.” 

After the show, I waited outside for Jonathan Pryce. While I was getting his autograph (he was so nice about it, hats off), I told him how much his performance had reminded me of my grandfather. A once authoritative man now debilitated by Alzheimer’s and haunted by the absence of his wife and his daughter (my mother). It is my job every holiday to visit him and tell him how his daughter is doing. I don’t know if he really believes me, yet nonetheless we keep maintaining an ecosystem of absent people and past memories that we both inhabit. 

Of course, this is something I used to refuse to admit, or even bring to mind; writing about it, as I am doing now, would have been unthinkable. It pained me and threatened to bring back all the grief I’d managed to suppress; at best it seemed melodramatic and pathetic.The Height of the Stormdramatized it, physicalized it, vocalized it, and presented it to me on the stage, to which my whole attention was drawn. And more—in Jonathan Pryce’s Andre, I glimpsed not just my grandfather, but myself as well. I realized how much I was, even in my constant attempt to pretend nothing ever happened, affected by and living with the past. How much of my identity and thought process was even now under its influence: I was still my mother’s daughter, seeing the world as she taught me to, hoping she would approve of me, perhaps even be proud of me. The play provided the push that drew all this out of my subconscious. It gave me the means and encouragement to live with and face the past—face who I am. 

Jump to October, 2019. Apparently, the interviews had went well, because I was back in England as a first-year student. I survived freshers’ week, survived matriculation, and took a train to London to see the revival of the National’s Translations, written by Brian Friel—I’d almost forgotten about it, but it had reasserted itself into my memory. 

And that is what the play does: it reasserts the past back into the public consciousness. It is about the anglicization of Irish place names, but everyone, including the characters, know that it’s more than just place names: it’s a clash between cultures which develops into a convergence of cultures, strongly hinting at cultural imperialism. The schoolmaster Hugh, monumentally played by Ciarán Hinds, remarks, “it is not the literal past, the ‘facts’ of history, that shape us, but images of the past (…) we must never cease renewing those images; because once we do, we fossilize.” 

We must renew our images of the past—there is a reason the National Theatre (emphasis on “national”) staged this play twice. Translationsis a much-needed reminder of the necessity of knowing and discussing and renewing the images of the past. By bringing back to the public mind the cultural and political clashes between Ireland and Britain, it provides a context in which we can deal with today’s issues of even greater cultural conflict and convergence that globalization brought upon us. It has acted as a cautionary check on globalism’s side effects, such as the coexistence of different languages and norms, reminding us to acknowledge and act in accordance with our cultural and historical context: our past. 

Review: The Mine Hatch

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Dora Hosie’s The Mine Hatch is a psychological domestic drama charting the twisted relations of a family that revolves around its chaotic heart – the matriarch Gentle Man (Dora Hosie). Predominantly set in a family home that is literally and metaphorically crumbling around its warring inhabitants, the play follows the disruptions that ensue when Gentle Man’s lover, Major (Rhys Appleyard), returns after two years as simultaneously Gentle Man’s daughter Kate (Sabby Pinto) prepares to leave home. The toxic relationship between between these two women is intensified by the presence of Major, as tensions escalate throughout the play. 

We first meet Hosie’s Gentle Man alone on the stage, a mesmerising figure whose nervous energy charges the play. Performativity is central to the play, with its reflections on the meta nature of theatre and the tales and stories that we tell both ourselves and those around us. Nowhere is this performativity more clearly exemplified than in the character of Gentle Man, whose enclosed existence in the decaying house is stimulated by her fantastical telling and retelling of stories. These stories exasperate Kate but hold Gentle Man’s other daughter, a tragically compelling Maya Wall, trapped. In a play reflecting on the act of telling and narration, it is these stories that seem to keep Gentle Man alive, and give her a fierce grip on the other characters; Major says ‘you have to believe her’. Rhys Appleyard’s Major is a convincingly muted and manipulated presence amongst the mercurial passions of the three women. The relationship between these women is at heart of the play, with the contrast between the wonderfully satirical portrayal of Kate and the sinewy paranoia of Gentle Man. The toxicity of this relationship pervades each scene, but despite its dark material the play is lightened by frequent moments of comedy, brought about by the pitch perfect comic timing of Hosie and Pinto and the humorously expressed sexual desires of both women.

Praise should also be given to the simple but effective set, with the sparse stage littered with empty alcohol bottles, another by-product of the chaos of Gentle Man’s existence. A particularly effective moment in the play was the dramatic power cut, which allowed Gentle Man’s voice to cut through the darkness, providing a sense of the inescapability of those bound to her. The fragmented and disparate dialogue suited the psychologically investigative nature of the play, but at times the whirlwind of words left a slight feeling of emptiness, and the play could have perhaps done with a little more impetus of plot. Nonetheless,The Mine Hatch is an intensely compelling investigation of psychological breakdown, both of the unit and of the individual, and each actor gave convincing and dynamic performances that held the audience’s attention throughout.

Preview: Martlets

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Worcester is currently commemorating 40 years since it became co-educational, and Simone Norowzian’s original play, Martlets was a charmingly playful way of celebrating it. Sunday night’s previews were ‘staged’ in Worcester Memorial Room, a temporary location. Upon our arrival, we were faced with a gaggle of chairs and props dotted around the admittedly imperfect performance space, and a small yet animated audience. Though we sat down tentatively on seats we hoped were not going to be used during the play, I didn’t feel as if our intrusion onto the performance space would have mattered. The marketing material for the play ‘cordially invite[s]’ us to a ‘Freshers’ event in Worcester college circa 1979’, and the more informal, intimate setting of the dress run enhanced audience presence and participation (every cloud!). Before the play even began, I was offered a drink, and given a (sadly empty) red solo cup, while William Ridd Foxton’s bumbling Richard interacted with his small yet appreciative audience. 

The play opens in earnest in media res. The men sit before us, discussing the elusive female species about to enter their college, amusingly accompanied by Norowzian’s own character, a moustached-chauvinist. The arrival of the women is alien territory for all but Carlo QC’s pseudo-suave Jude, whose amusing misjudgements and faux-pas end up driving a plot that seems fairly thin otherwise. No doubt due to the fact that I was watching a dress rehearsal, the play rattled through conversation and events at rapid speeds. The length turned out to be shorter than the original, at only an hour, and some elements of the play were lost for it. Nevertheless, this odyssey through paradigms of these students’ Oxford experiences, including unfortunate sconces and missed OUCA meetings, had its amusing merits and promising moments. Well-scripted jokes were pulled off successfully by a group of competent actors, who each played convincing caricatures with palpable enthusiasm. Throughout the performance, selected members of the audience were taken to an alternative room where, I am told, a different scene continued; though somewhat hindered by the setting, this interactive style of comedy was an interesting way of creating a bespoke audience experience: something I certainly was not expecting. 

Martlets demonstrates a great deal of potential, but was not done justice, I felt, by rapid line delivery and subject change. I had written in my notes during the performance: ‘there is so much going on!’, capitalised, and the play paradoxically seems to cover too much and too little at once. The conversation jolts suddenly from cocktails, to Ancient Greek Homosexuality, to parental expectation, and in a play so heavily focused on dialogue, I would like to have seen a more sustained focus on the clear wit in Norowizan’s writing. 

In the context of 40 years of women at Worcester, I felt that the play could have benefited from greater commentary on this necessary step towards equality. Passing remarks are made about the novelty of female presence, but in some cases the caricature-ish presentation of the women, one of whom claims unconvincingly to be interested in ‘Shakespeare, current affairs and… the Sex Pistols’, seems to trivialise rather than celebrate. Nevertheless, the play was a perfect representation of the funny eccentricities of being a fresher, and its cheerful energy was infectious. Martlets is a play full of joy and sharp writing, all it needs is a bit of polishing.