Thursday 17th July 2025
Blog Page 590

Mid-table mentality and the perennial notion of ‘Kicking On’

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Wolves won the league title last year in impressive style, taking the crown from Burnley who, in turn, took it from its more regular holders Everton. Of course, this is not the title, but this alternative league will be all too familiar for Premier League fans who follow teams outside the ‘Big Six’ who are traditionally so dominant. The last to break the hegemony of these clubs was Leicester in 2016, and it would be something of an understatement to describe that season as anomalous. Even with such an achievement in recent memory, it is impossible to conceive of the feat of winning the top division of English football immediately after promotion, last completed by Nottingham Forest in 1978.

So what must these other fourteen teams strive for? After Leicester’s goalless draw with Chelsea on the final day of 2018-19, manager Brendan Rodgers expressed the familiar sentiment that “hopefully we can go on and finish higher up the table next season”. This perennial concept of ‘kicking on’ is a staple of post-match interviews at the end of the season. Its foundation is the strong feeling that the season just finished was particularly unlucky for injuries and refereeing decisions, far more so than competitors, and that real progress can be made if a team can ‘start where they left off’ when August comes around again.

But this is an elusive ideal. Eight of the eleven teams who finished from 7th to 17th in 2019 also finished somewhere within these positions the previous two seasons and only West Ham, Watford and newly-promoted Wolves significantly improved on their positions from 2018. Momentum that is built up towards the end of a season seems to regularly come to nothing in August, while teams that are tailing off in April are just as likely to start the new season strongly.

For most clubs, other than Everton, whose supporters perhaps possess a stubborn superiority complex, there is that nervous section of fans who fear relegation as each season begins. Acutely aware that the lottery of each Premier League season can throw up surprising results, they are the antidote to those who seek to ‘kick on’. In 2016, for example, West Brom and Stoke finished secure in 10th and 13th. A year later, they were relegated in 19th and 20th with just thirteen wins between them.

One solution to this concern would be increased investment, but this is a hit and miss strategy at best. In the summer of 2018, Leicester and Everton spent a combined £193 million but were both unmoved in the table a year later, finding the mini-league impossible to break out of; whereas Watford spent just £24 million but rose three places to 11th and reached only the second FA Cup final in their history.

There is hope for smaller teams. In the summer of 2017, Burnley barely reinvested the money made from the sales of Michael Keane and Andre Gray, arguably their two best players, but finished nine places higher in May 2018 than a year earlier, gaining that coveted Europa League place. However, their success came from a series of narrow victories, with eleven out of their fourteen wins coming from a margin of one goal. It would still seem, therefore, that their success was unpredictable, and, apparently, unreliable, with the side only managing 15th place in the 2018-19 season.

The Sisyphean trials and tribulations of the Premier League’s mid-table sides, so often finding the climb into the top six an unassailable mountain, are a disheartening experience for supporters. These teams may be less eye-catching, but they are far more unpredictable, all wavering between the success of a Europa League place, and the chance of relegation. No-one has yet found the key to realising the aim of ‘kicking on’ and thus, for now, it must remain a mythical post-match soundbite.

Time to tilt the lens- part 2: which inclusive approaches make sense in fashion?

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With Sinead Burke being the first little person to ever attend the Met Gala and Selma Blair walking the red carpet of this year’s Oscars with a walking stick made of black ebony and bedazzled with a pink diamond, 2019 has certainly had its moments of glamorous disability representation. But when it comes to incorporating disability in the world of fashion there is more than visibility to address: accessibility of shopping spaces or the actual products available are equally important.

Runways are just one of many spaces in which disabled people are not represented. Have you ever seen a mannequin with a disability? Or a disabled model in a mail-order catalogue, a fashion editorial or a product shoots? Samanta Bullock is determined to change this lack of representation and has not only ensured that the products of her own collection are showcased on a variety of wheelchair users. She is also promoting a prop in the shape of a wheelchair: By being put on this stylised wheelchair seat every store mannequin turns into a wheelchair user. This so called “mannequal” was invented by Sophie Morgan. Disabled women from all over the world have also taken matters into their own hands. They show off their outfits under #babeswithmobilityaids on their social media profiles creating the visibility themselves that the fashion world has denied them so far.

Yet representation is not necessarily the biggest concern for every woman. Don’t get me wrong: representation is important! But when you can’t even enter the store because your wheelchair gets tangled up in T-shirts and dresses, the fact, that your body type is represented somewhere in there, seems less of an achievement.

Overall it appears that there is a discrepancy between the wishes and needs of everyday women and the women who are currently representing people with disabilities in the fashion industry. The first just want to get dressed in a way that works for them and then focus their attention on the things that really matter to them like their jobs, hobbies or families while the second are die-hard fashionistas unrelated to their disability. Sinead Burke’s work with luxury designer brands like Gucci is an exciting step towards social justice in fashion. Samanta Bullock’s vision of wheelchair models on every runway of every fashion show is awe-inspiring. Yet one can’t help but wonder if that is the approach that will give a wide range of disabled women the access to the fashion industry that would create the most equality for the most people. Samanta has compared the visibility of disability to that of black models who starting from a few luxury brands have now become part of mainstream fashion campaigns at all different price points. However, there are a few crucial differences between marginalised parts of the population like black people and ignored groups like women (and for that matter men) with disabilities. While people living with physical disabilities are not a minority per se, the great number of different abilities and needs means that they do not constitute a coherent group from the perspective of clothing.

It is easy to understand Sinead’s desire to be able to own and wear a beautiful beaming yellow silk designer gown. However, if you are not working for Vogue and hanging out at the Met Gala the events in your life that ask for a silk gown are probably few and rare. In addition to the sheer lack of occasions comes the corporeal factor. Anne pointed out how the structured, even stiff materials of high fashion looks are not just restricting but actively uncomfortable against a body that might have had several operations or suffers from chronic pain. After living with a wheelchair every day for the great majority (or all) of their lives, it is difficult to imagine how one’s personal clothing style might be different without the disability. Jo contemplated about her personal style for a while and concluded that she doesn’t know whether her choices of stretchy cotton shirts and skirts is due to her disability or simply because she loves it.

While disabled women like Anne or Jo have a clear understanding of the connections between affordable prices and the need of companies to keep their overhead costs low and therefor do not expect that all brands will ever cater to their specific disability, they also see the advantages of ‘cheap fashion’. Its materials often work very well for customers living with disabilities. The stretchy and soft cotton jersey of an H&M dress is a great fabric choice. It makes the garment easy to pull on and off without any assistance, it feels soft against the skin and can accommodate a great variety of movements without being restrictive. It is also inexpensive. The disability pay gap is a very real issue and it means that luxury fashion is not a real concern for most people with disabilities. Disability rights UK estimates a disability pay gap of 15 percent for the year 2018. In numbers that means that the average disabled worker earns £2,730 less per year than the average non-disabled worker. Just think how many dresses that could buy!

One thing that crystallised itself very quickly was the complete lack of interest in so-called ‘disability brands’. The comments on them were critical and ranged from mentioning their ugly designs to the lack of connections they have to the lives of the disabled women who might buy from them. As Anne puts it, there are only so many wheelchair friendly raincoats one might need, or want. Samanta also emphasised over and over again that she did not create a brand for wheelchair users but designs clothing that is comfortable to wear in a seated position.

More information about the products already on the market would make shopping more accessible. One issue for example is the length of skirts and trousers. What is looking like a chic work-appropriate pencil skirt on the model that is standing, slips up when you wear it while sitting and shows more leg than you ever planned or wanted. One easy solution would be companies providing measurements of skirts and trousers from waist to hem in the descriptions of products on their websites. If the models sit down for one picture when presenting the garment, customers in wheelchair would already get a much better idea of how said skirt would look on them. And I’m sure, after a long day of photo shooting the model would appreciate a chance to put their feet up as well!

Music on the Big Screen

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Music in film is worth more than we realise. The sound of Yann Tiersen’s minimalist piano piece ‘Comptine d’un autre été, l’après-midi’, for instance, is just another reason why we count romantic comedy Amélie as a smash hit. The lulling chord progression sparks us to also appreciate the cinematographic bliss of Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s France – the colourful train station, the retro lustre of the Café des Deux Moulins, and the striking rouge of Amélie’s bedroom. When we laze around on an off day clutching a cushion and watching Bridget Jones tipsily dance alone in her flat to Jamie O’Neal’s cover of ‘All by Myself’, we realise that without a memorable score, there wouldn’t be iconic moments that merit an obsessive desire to replay (especially the moment where she furiously kicks the air during the key change for the final chorus – fun fact: Renée Zellweger actually ad-libbed that entire wallow-dance scene, and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since). Yet, the reasons as to why many people, myself included, fascinatedly leaf through the soundtracks of films (some of which the listening precedes the watching itself) in our spare time extend beyond the visual-aural link.

A good soundtrack not only brings emotion to life, but also fantastic writing and acting. I’d quite like to hold a magnifying glass to the soundtrack of Gone Girl(2014) put together by Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross. The pulsating synth bass and ominous Wurlitzer melody of ‘Technically, Missing’ mingles so well with Rosamund Pike’s raspy, a-bitch-boutta-get-hit narration of Gillian Flynn’s ‘Cool Girl’ concept; so much so that without it, the ‘Cool Girl’monologue would not be such a thematic climax to the film for me. The confrontational heartbeat of the music that gains instrumental layers as the song progresses resembles Amy Dunne’s peaking journey, slathering the cross-cut sequence in suspense. Besides this, Reznor also explains to Rolling Stone that scoring Gone Girlwas a test of emotion and skill. He described creating the soundtrack as an attempt to ‘try and get into his [David Fincher, director] head and translate what he’s saying or feeling into an approach’. Therefore, the music must be in parallel with the overall mise-en-scène of the film; it is a team effort between the director and the musical directors to understand each other and create something unanimously agreed upon. 

Another film score to shed light on is the score of Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet (1996) which brilliantly converts the Elizabethan Verona into the present day. The climactic choir of ‘O Verona’ by Craig Armstrong accompanies the spectacular opening montage of the film before being followed by ‘The Montague Boys’, a cocky, cruising instrumental piece with rattling drums and rapped lyrics from Justin Warfield of One Inch Punch. A particular shortcoming of this piece of score is that this leitmotif is, simply, just a leitmotif; with various critics professing disappointment of not being able to enjoy ‘The Montague Boys’ as a full song. Despite this, however, the juxtaposition of this laid-back piece with the seriousness of ‘O Verona’ does a fantastic job in hinting at the evil in the playful streets of Verona and makes death and the eventual dual suicide the central theme of the movie.

Thinking about it all, a soundtrack, like the piece of artwork it is, has to be mesmerising on all levels. It has to be recognisable – something you can go back to and listen to over and over again even after the film has ended. For me, cinematic music is the most magical genre of music, as it is designed to reflect and coincide with visuals and provoke emotion calculated by authors and directors – and it doesn’t even have to follow the basic pop model of verse-chorus-verse-chorus for people of our time to be hooked onto it.

“Lil Thot”: How female empowerment and music intersect

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One of the first lessons we are taught as children is that to gain respect, we must first earn it. Yet for women in music, the question of how to earn respect in an industry that is still overwhelmingly dominated by men still lingers. It is undeniable that icons such as Beyoncé and Ariana Grande have conquered the charts with game changing girl-power anthems. Yet studies such as the USC’s Annenberg Inclusion Initiative show that between 2012-2018, only 21.7% of Billboard’s year-end Hot 100 chart songs were created by women artists, with even fewer women taking up producer roles. These findings, combined with the release of controversial hits such as Robin Thicke’s ‘Blurred Lines,’ suggest that women are still being represented in music through a primarily male lens: a focalisation that often isn’t concerned with being respectful.

In 2016, Kanye released the now-infamous ‘Famous,’ which gained notoriety for containing his boasts “I feel like me and Taylor might still have sex // Why? I made that bitch famous.” The fallout feud between the Kardashians and Taylor Swift may have left fans divided, however perhaps the most interesting takeaway from the drama was the impact it had on Swift’s own branding. Her entire ‘Reputation’ era – from the album and music videos to the concert staging and costumes – built itself around the image of the ‘snake,’ an insult which Kardashian had branded Swift in what she referred to as an “online hate campaign.” By referencing the snake in the room (so to speak), Swift not only reclaimed the insult, but transformed it into a massively profitable brand for her music. Sure enough, ‘Reputation’ became the US’s best-selling album in 2017.

Reclamation as a form of empowerment isn’t a new concept, but it does have deeply significant implications for women within the music industry. One such example is Cardi B, who rocketed from stripping to becoming one of the most acclaimed rappers in the business (and indeed dethroning Swift’s place on the Billboard chart). Her mastery of a genre that has been repeatedly critiqued for its misogyny and objectification of women rests in part on her reclamation of the same misogynistic labels used against her, particularly in relation to her stripping past. From the outset, songs such as ‘Trick’ and ‘Lil Thot’ on her debut 2016 mixtape established dominance not only over her past clientele, but on the ‘thot’ label hurled against her, setting the trend for her music and proving herself to be just as valid a competitor as her overwhelmingly male peers. In challenging male lyrics that, as she has said herself, “let us know that they use us,” Cardi B rises to their level by returning fire on their violence and objectification.

But there is a debate to be had about the effectiveness of engaging with such misogyny. Whilst it is undeniable that Cardi B has succeeded in levelling her genre’s playing field, at what point does the reclamation of sexist and violent slurs cease to be empowering, and instead normalise the use of derogatory language? To be respected as both a rapper and a woman, she must prove herself to be capable of beating her male rivals at their own game by using their own lyrical style against them. Yet surely this denies her the ability to simply rap within her own right, independent of her past and her competitors. To what lengths must one artist go to empower themselves before this goal defines their entire career? Whilst reclamation certainly has been a crucial part of her personal success and empowerment, the extent to which it can be branded a success for the feminist movement as a whole is far more ambiguous. The ‘feminist’ label is one that Cardi B has hesitated in assigning herself in past interviews, a narrative that social media has exacerbated further in exposing her past posts online evidencing transphobia. Whilst reclamation can be powerful, it also can also create a gateway to a far more slippery slope of normalisation, which in turn certain groups can use as justification for using such language maliciously. When listening to music, it can become very easy to simply blindly sing along to lyrics without truly considering what they mean and what they stand for: where one person may find them empowering, another may find them incredibly offensive.

But regardless of your personal views on the implications of reclamation or an individual artist’s controversies, the impact of a woman conquering a male dominated field, topping charts, and continuing to do so even throughout a pregnancy is undeniably liberating. What the likes of Beyoncé, Ariana Grande, Taylor Swift and even controversial stars such as Cardi B stand for is the simple fact that women should not have to earn respect within the music industry because of their gender, but that they should earn it on their merits as an artist. And that is pretty empowering.

Cybersecurity risk posed to incoming students

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A recent report by cybersecurity firm Proofpoint has revealed that the vast majority of the UK’s universities, including Oxford, have failed to take recommended precautionary steps to protect students from crime online, and this particularly threatens new students around results day. 

Only one in twenty of the universities surveyed was using the recommended level of DMARC (Domain-based Message Authentication, Reporting and Conformance) protection, with 30% using some form of the tool below the recommended level and the rest using no DMARC protection at all. 

The increased threat posed by hackers has led the government to act in recent years, most notably forming the National Cyber Security Centre in 2016. 

However, Proofpoint’s report suggests that the same could not be said of many universities.

Kevin Epstein, vice-president of threat operations, said: ”By not implementing simple, yet effective email authentication best practices, Universities may be unknowingly exposing themselves and their students to cybercriminals on the hunt for personal data.

“Proofpoint researchers found that the education sector saw the largest year-over-year increase in email fraud attacks of any industry in 2018, soaring 192 percent to 40 attacks per organisation on average.

“Institutions and organisations in all sectors should look to deploy authentication protocols, such as DMARC to shore up their email fraud defences. 

“Cybercriminals are always going to leverage key events to drive targeted attacks using social engineering techniques such as impersonation and universities are no exception to this. 

“Ahead of A-Level results day, student applicants must be vigilant in checking the validity of all emails, especially on a day when guards are down, and attentions are focused on their future.”

A response from the National Cyber Security Centre emphasised how closely it was working with universities and other public bodies. A spokesperson for the Centre said, “NCSC experts work closely with the academic sector to improve their security practices and help protect education establishments from cyber threats”.

Plan to save Lawrence of Arabia’s Oxford home

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BBC world affairs editor John Simpson and Rory Stewart, Secretary of State for International Development, have put forward a plan to save the childhood home of TE Lawrence.

Remembered as an army officer, archaeologist, and war hero, Lawrence’s life was immortalised in the Academy-award winning film Lawrence of Arabia.

Yet, aside from the blue plaque on the wall, 2 Polstead Road blends into the many red brick houses in north Oxford.

Falling into disrepair, the house was put on the market last year for £2.9 million but remains unsold.

Recently, the TE Lawrence Society appealed against the governmental decision not to give the house listed status, emphasising the urgent need for its protection.

Simpson and Stewart, who has made a two-part documentary for the BBC on Lawrence and his legacy, have suggested the creation of a centre for Lawrence studies.

A permanent memorial to Lawrence, they propose that the house should be bought and returned to its original condition. They believe the best buyer to be one of the three Oxford colleges Lawrence belonged to: Jesus, All Souls, and Magdalen.

Simpson and Stewart wrote: “We feel the house should be opened to the public and hope that some of the interesting and remarkable objects and documents held by a number of institutions could be put on display.”

“We think that a Lawrence Fellow should be appointed to act as custodian and organise lectures and exhibitions,” they added.

TE Lawrence, famed for his role during the Sinai and Palestine Campaign and the Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Empire, lived in the house from 1896.

First attending the City of Oxford High School in George Street, now the university’s history faculty, Lawrence went on to read history at Jesus College.

Before the war, Lawrence embarked on a three-month walking tour of crusader castles in Ottoman Syria, before learning Arabic in Byblos.

On his return from his archaeological adventures in 1914, the family agreed to convert the outhouse in the garden into a timber bungalow designed by Lawrence himself, that survives to this day.

Simpson and Stewart wrote: “This outhouse, like the main house, is still much as Lawrence left it, although the sheeting has long gone. The building bears his stamp; he was keen on the Arts and Crafts movement, and it shows.”

“We feel that the property as a whole is far too important to be left to fall apart, or to be taken over by a developer and lose its character for ever.”

“We invite anyone who is interested in TE Lawrence, and in the house that made him what he was, to join us in our big to turn it into a museum and study centre that will do justice to one of Britain’s most fascinating and influential heroes.”

Leonardo da Vinci: a Mind in Motion

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There’s not a Mona Lisa in sight. In fact, there’s a grand total of one painting in the whole exhibition…err, are you sure you’ve got the right da Vinci?

Welcome to the British Library’s new exhibition, which will certainly put your mind in motion, as its title suggests, thanks to its atypical depiction of the genius we think we know.

To celebrate the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, as macabre as that sounds, the British Library has collated a stunning selection from three of da Vinci’s notebooks – on display together for the very first time. In addition to the Codex Arundel from the library itself and the Codex Forster from the Victoria and Albert Museum, visitors can see pages from the Codex Leicester – on loan from Bill Gates who bought it for over $30m in 1994. 

         The focus of this exhibition is not on da Vinci the artist, but the scientist. This side of the polymath is rarely so fully explored as here, with the notebooks revealing his ideas, experiments and discoveries in areas such as mechanics, geometry, astronomy, architecture and hydraulics. The black, grey and turquoise theme of the exhibition space is a change from the ubiquitous white gallery walls da Vinci’s work normally adorn. Seeing the contrast between the pale cream of the pages from the artist’s notebooks and this dark background gives the collection an eerie sense of mystery, which is compounded by any attempts to decipher the artist’s famous back to front, or ‘mirror’, writing.

           Though relatively small, the exhibition room allows visitors a close view of each carefully chosen page: amongst the rows of painstakingly neat sentences, diagrams spiral out of corners and disturb the discipline of the body of text. These are no hasty scribbles but rather, da Vinci’s masterpieces in miniature: from representations of an underwater breathing apparatus to the flow of the Arno River in Italy. Da Vinci’s notebooks are works of art in themselves, a testimony in this digital age to the power of writing and drawing by hand. At times, though, you do have to roll your eyes in exasperation at the feeling that there was seemingly nothing, not even doodling, that da Vinci, like a universal teacher’s pet, did not excel at.

         The interactive features of the exhibition provide us with access to digitalised copies of da Vinci’s notebooks, as well as transcriptions and translations of his works, which serve to demystify da Vinci’s illegible script. Thanks to the succinct explanatory panels, even the most clueless of visitors – myself very much included – can gain an understanding of why da Vinci’s works were, and still are, important to the scientific community. For instance, the exhibition highlights da Vinci’s disputation of established Aristotelian ideas about the difference between the ‘celestial’ and ‘terrestrial’ parts of the universe and observations about how the Moon, rather than emitting its own light, reflects that of the Sun. 

         Nevertheless, this exhibition does hold something for those accustomed to da Vinci’s traditional oeuvre by emphasising how he applied his scientific ideas to his artworks and linked motion in the natural world to his pioneering depictions of the human body in motion. The final item in the exhibition is a copy of the first version of the Virgin of the Rocks, known by art critics for the unified composition of its religious figures and its innovative abandonment of halos. However, after showing visitors da Vinci’s sketches on the motion of water, the exhibition encourages us to adopt da Vinci’s multidisciplinary viewpoint and compare his sketches of flowing waves to the flowing locks of the Madonna’s hair.

Whether you come to this exhibition from the arts or the sciences, it is hard not to admire da Vinci’s crossover of these two, supposedly diametrically opposed disciplines. Whatever answers the exhibition provides to questions about his contributions to science and engineering, we are inevitably left with a sense of the incomprehensible genius of da Vinci.

Leonardo da Vinci: A Mind in Motion is on at British Library until September 8th.

Review: Madlib and Freddie Gibbs – Bandana

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Madlib is perhaps hip-hop’s greatest enigma. In a career spanning almost three decades he has studied a variety of genres, masterfully integrating them into his now well-formed, idiosyncratic sound. From Brazilian funk to classical jazz and everything in between, there seems to be very little that he cannot master. Even without a mobile phone to communicate on, he has been the mastermind of several ground-breaking collaborative hip-hop albums. Of course, the project Madvillainy– with the equally mysterious MF DOOM – immediately comes to mind, an album steeped in stunning obscurity and unmatched innovation. One thinks too of the Jaylib project, the result of Madlib’s rapport with the intuitively adroit J Dilla. Nonetheless, even for an artist lauded for his relentless refusal to be pigeonholed, the news that Madlib was working with Freddie Gibbs came as a surprise to everyone within hip-hop.

You see, Freddie Gibbs is, superficially speaking, no MF DOOM. Whereas the latter intricately weaves syllables and rhymes in and around the clouded bliss produced by Madlib’s sampler, one might expect Gibbs to simply charge through that very haze, incongruously lacerating it with every bar. For Gibbs is a rapper for whom the beat is mostly a platform, not a dancing partner. It is a pillar on which he can victoriously stand, breathlessly diffusing knowledge on the minutiae of street life. He is often compared to the incomparable Tupac Shakur, yet, without the glamour of the west coast, Gibbs is actually a different animal altogether. Harking from Gary, Indiana, a place in which it is estimated nearly 1/3rdof all houses are either unoccupied or abandoned, his work is gritter, darker and more brooding than almost any other rapper, dead or alive. Therefore, when Gibbs and Madlib’s first album, Piñata, was released in 2014, it would be unfair to say that expectations were low. In reality, there were no expectations at all. Who could have predicted how this bastion of the nihilistic world of crime would mesh with such a leviathan of underground music, albeit an incognito one? If there was scepticism, however, the two quickly dispelled it. With each artist taking a meditated step into each other’s worlds, Piñataproved to be a revelation. Supplemented by a terrific host of guest features, from the drawly Earl Sweatshirt to the bombastic Meechy Darko, the perfect blaxploitation picture was painted, sirens and all. With the bling era of rap all but over, and the trap epoch beginning to boom, Gibbs and Madlib proved that cocaine-infused bars need not be trivialised nor expressed over thumping 808s. It was a project that carved a new path in the ever-forking road of hip-hop.

With such success, it seemed likely that in the years that followed Piñata, both artists’ careers would follow an exponential trajectory. Indeed, talks of a second album, Bandana, had even begun by the time Piñatahad been released. Yet, come 2019, it was clear that neither had achieved such an explosion of fame, and it appeared that Bandanahad been shelved forever. For Madlib, the reason for his lingering status in the more niche spheres of hip-hop is clear enough: he does not desire the celebrity status. With classics under his belt, he feels no need to pursue the zeitgeist, instead allowing music that he finds intriguing to approach him. Gibbs is different. Like many other rappers who have escaped the hardships of desolating poverty, he has no qualms in expressing his pursuit of success. He is, by no means, a sell-out, but he is certainly more commercially visible than other underground rappers. Press runs, shows, and even the occasional trap beat, Gibbs is unabashedly aiming for the elusive crown. So why has he not reached this peak? Well, in June 2016, Gibbs was arrested on a European arrest warrant for a rape alleged to have taken place in Austria in 2015. Confined in a European jail for some time, he was later released after a judge determined there was not sufficient evidence. It is now believed that the accuser’s statement derived from a dream that she had had. The political and legal aspects aside, the incident had a deleterious effect not only on Gibbs’s psychological condition, but also on his career. As he told Ebro Darden last year, “when I came out of that situation, you know, I had to build my name back up, […] I feel like I just had to explain myself. ‘Cause it’s a lot of cats that get into those situations and they don’t speak on it; they don’t meet it head on because they’re actually guilty and they feel like they got something to hide.” 

In a number of striking albums, including You Only Live 2wice and Freddie, Gibbs addressed the situation directly, often revealing vulnerability, insecurity and trepidation even over the murkiest of trap beats. Despite these albums being continued exhibitions of lyrical prowess, they hardly furthered Gibbs’s bid as a member of hip-hop royalty. For that to happen, it became obvious that he would have to turn to his old partner, the Beat Konducta himself, Madlib. This time around, however, things have been radically changed.

If Madvillainyis both a musical and lyrical attempt to challenge the listener to keep up with the boundless rhymes and complex production, Bandanafeels like Madlib not only testing his audience, but his rapper too. He offers Gibbs some of his most impenetrable, multifarious and eclectic beats yet, rammed with beat switches, vocal samples and often murderous 808s. To think he made all these beats on his iPad. Happily, Gibbs passes with flying colours.

The same triumphant boasting is there, alongside the usually witty cultural references. Just think of his self-identification with Johnny Sacrimoni from The Sopranosin ‘Palmolive’, or Sugar Ray Robinson and John Wick in ‘Half Manne Half Cocaine’. But if you think this is all vapid showboating, rest assured, Gibbs’s lyrics have also developed a cutting, political edge. He announced in ‘Crushed Glass’ back in 2017 that “Donald Trump gon’ chain us up and turn back to slaves”, and his criticism of the president continues on Bandana. Gibbs’s ultimate preoccupation is with figures of black power, from Allen Iverson to Melvin Williams to Tupac himself. This is further enhanced by the revered selection of guests on this album. As spectacular as it is to hear Black Thought and Yasiin Bey on a Madlib beat, it is  in fact Pusha T that steals the show. Who else could rap “It was snowfall and Reagan gave me the visual, Obama opened his doors knowing I was a criminal” with such conviction, such assuredness and vigour. 

However, we all know that true classics need an element of emotional variation, a certain nuance that confirms them to be true depictions of the complex human psyche. Every ‘Ready to Die’ needs a ‘Suicidal Thoughts’, every ‘Illmatic’ needs a ‘Life’s a Bitch’, every ‘My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy’ needs a ‘Who Gon Survive In America’. Gibbs’s time in prison has hardened his determinations but softened his soul, stopping this album from becoming topically stale. No song typifies this struggle, this mental war, more than ‘Practice’, a song that, instrumentally speaking, lulls, ebbs and swoons and sets the stage for an expected tirade of misogyny. Subverting this expectation, however, Gibbs grants authority and knowledge to a woman he confesses to have cheated on, who tells him “you need to come home with your daughter, nothing more important than your baby”. He, in the next line, concedes that “drugs got me crazy”. The fact that Gibbs can depict his internal angst with the same lucid vividness with which he sketches his external battles with the law is a good sign. It shows that he is becoming more well-rounded, more precise and more transparent. If he continues in this vain, he may very soon find himself at the uppermost echelon of hip-hop. 

The perils of the high street: Zara’s polka dot dress.

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I saw a viral tweet a couple of weeks ago that referred to how difficult it was to find anything worth buying in Zara. I found myself internally coming to the defence of, probably, my favourite high street shop. At least, it’s the only one I like looking in and the only one that I struggle to leave without having ‘accidentally’ acquired yet another item of clothing I simply do not need. Clothes shopping has a grip, unrivalled in its tightness, over me, as I’m sure it does over many others. The catch-all remedy to an endless list of ailments- and simultaneously the perfect means of celebrating a plethora of momentous occasions. But this pleasure is guilty; a naughty treat whose pick-me-up capacity is trumped by the self-hatred duly induced with every purchase. A further burden on the bank balance, on the planet and its depreciating resources, on a wardrobe creaking at the hinges. All so far from sparking joy. I need an urgent clear-out…did someone say summer sale?

The “new clothes=new me” belief is what keeps us running back to the fitting rooms for more; we buy again so as to be able to transform ourselves into a yet-unseen variant of the “me” of which we’re all too bored. Like a tattoo, minus penetration of the epidermis, plus the removability, clothes allow us a valuable outlet for characters and personalities often penned in by work and social norms. However, a problem I have always had with the high street big dogs is their emphasis on smaller bodies being better bodies and therefore more worth dressing. Also, that you’re setting yourself up, in shopping at Zara, Topshop, Urban Outfitters, for bumping into someone dressed identically to you. This phenomenon is the antithesis of dressing to express one’s individuality. By definition we are all unique, a fact undermined when a superficial clone of yourself appears at the neighbouring library desk. An obvious solution to this is to dress head-to-toe in charity shop wares. But the magnetism of the brand-new will continue to draw us towards the bigger, brighter and better advertised stores. It’s the relative thrill of custom-bought versus hand-me-downs which anyone with older siblings, cousins, friends will have experienced young. If it’s new for you, you’re special and will profit from greater caché on the climbing frame at primary school. It’s all about status and proving one’s wealth.

Yet when we’re all turning to the same select names for affordable, but not too affordable, trendy clothes, we’re bound to have intersecting taste. The Zara polka dot dress is today’s case in point. Instagram account Hot4theSpot is dedicated to exhibiting sightings of this sartorial sensation, securing its position as “the dress that conquered Britain”. Having escaped the sheltered confines of the provinces for a few days, I was able to test this claim among the inhabitants of our capital city. I counted up to ten sightings per day while I was there. Not a lot, but enough to confirm it as the most frequently occurring outfit on the London streets. Perhaps women everywhere have pounced on this polka dot piece because unlike a lot of Zara items, it is available in up to the equivalent of a UK size 18. I was frustrated to find while jean shopping in said shop last week that few styles exceed a size 14. Why, when the UK average is a 16? Obviously, then, curvier women will have embraced the opportunity to buy an item of clothing that legitimises their body shape. But why should they have to subscribe to looking like hundreds of other women in doing so? If the greater range of sizes in the polka dot dress is responsible for its take-over of epidemic proportions, then we need to see more items that dare to be bigger. The more choice there is for shoppers, with their unique requirements and styles, the more we’ll be able to savour our one-of-a-kind identities.

But in the mean time, maybe charity shops really are the safer option when it comes to protecting our personality as conveyed through clothing, not to mention the planet and our purses.

Review: Hustlers – ‘a refreshingly raw play’

“This was not a choice, this was a tragic accident.”

This is a refreshingly raw play to grace the theatres of Oxford. Set in the intimate BT studio, everything from the set to the dynamic cast of Hustlers conveyed the chaotic, destructive lifestyle of its eponymous main characters.

The play, set in the US during the 80s drug and AIDS crisis, depicts the lives of three prostitutes and their pimp, viscerally portraying the internalized disgust of the lives of those involved at all stages of the sex industry who live in a continuous cycle of drugs and poverty. Harlow, played by writer and director Lou Lou Curry, and James, played by Megan Ruppel, live under the toxic control of their pimp Tony, nicknamed ‘Trouble’, played by the talented Nichita Matei. The exploitative relationship between the pimp and the two female prostitutes is brought to light through the introduction of a new prostitute to the streets: a woman aptly named ‘Clarity’.

The character of Clarity reveals the danger of streets without ‘protection’, a suitable double entendre for the AIDS crisis of the 80s, and hints at the simultaneously abusive and co-dependent relationships of pimps and prostitutes. In particular, the physical theatre employed in the opening scenes between the two main characters Harlow and James was especially compelling, capturing a frenetic cycle of prostitution and drug-taking.

A standout performance of the show was that of Megan Ruppel, who played the transgender prostitute James. She managed to convey the fragility of prostitution and drug addiction without falling into clichés; certainly no mean feat given the complexity of the subject matter. Her monologues provided her with material that she took and ran with, providing the audience with a truly immersive performance. Her character’s portrayal of the nuances of being a transgender prostitute, changing himself for the businessmen and the average guy on the street, provided a unique insight into the depersonalisation of prostitutes.

The set itself was cleverly designed; the floor scattered with condoms (that have definitely resulted in the loss of one JCR’s welfare supply), heroin needles and cigarettes, the audience was provided with an immersive experience which captured the poverty of the characters well. Despite a few cliché lines, such as that the only things that humans fear are “death and taxes”, and a feeling that the lighting could be improved upon in part, the first performance of this new original play was a breath of fresh air for the Oxford theatre scene.