Saturday 11th April 2026
Blog Page 953

The fabric of fashion shapes the fabric of our society

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Models wearing hijabs is a topic that has recently been subject to a lot of media attention, especially after rapper and designer, Kanye West, cast hijab-wearing fashion model Halima Aden to walk the runway for his Yeezy Season Five show. While New York Fashion Week is known for continually breaking the boundaries of the fashion world, it is particularly important that we take this instance as an opportunity to explore the rigid constructs of this fabulous yet fierce industry.

But what is meant by the term in its sartorial use? The word ‘model’ in its simplest form can be defined as an accurate representation of a person or thing. A ‘model’ of a house shows us what the final building would look like, and a ‘model’ of a car at a dealership shows us the features of the car. Then is a ‘model’ at a fashion show not supposed to be a representation of the designer’s vision of, if not the exact the customer, but how a garment will look on one? Some may argue that these are two different definitions of the word ‘model’. But, even if we just take ‘models’ to be people employed to display clothes, I would still argue that  models on the runway should not be used to collectively represent one ideal.

We should instead celebrate the individual as opposed to a type. In today’s world, where the demographic of high-end fashion retailers is as diverse as the society we live in, we should question why their marketing hasn’t kept up. Some argue that the stern, bold, and emotionless face that is painted upon each model from runway to runway is an attempt to let the clothes talk for themselves. However, I would argue that designers like Kanye are bringing their clothes to life by showcasing and exhibiting the individual character of the models, rather than allowing their personalities to fade away behind the clothes. By casting models from diverse ethnic and racial backgrounds, we begin to see an accurate depiction of the society we live in, and therefore arguably a more realistic representation of the simple definition of ‘a model’. This message is especially important today in the light of Trump’s America and post-Brexit Britain—paying homage to the diversity of the world can be seen as an act of rebellion against the troubling cultural shift towards exclusion and denial of immigrant and minority rights.

It is true that allowing the presence of religious symbols, be they hijabs, turbans, or crosses, is only a small step towards shattering the rigid image of fashion and breaking down stereotypes. However, we need to ardently support these moments of progress in order to normalise representations of faith and diversity within the industry as a whole. As someone who wears a turban almost every day, religion and faith obviously play a large role in my life. However I would say this goes hand in hand with my interests in fashion, because my turban is clearly visible and very important to me. While the presence of turbans at male fashion shows, or lack thereof, doesn’t put me off the fashion scene, it does create a thin, but unnecessary barrier between our two worlds.

Fashion has an often unseen (or more accurately unobserved), but incredibly potent power to influence. As a result the rise in culturally diverse models, be they representing different races, cultures, or faiths, is an easily underappreciated, but extremely important and positive step forwards. It not only allows people like Halima Aden, to pursue a career of their choice, while simultaneously remaining comfortable and true to their culture, but it also spreads messages of equality and acceptance from different but equally important angles, across a world that needs these messages of tolerance and inclusion more than ever.

“An aspirational first performance”

Blavatsky’s Tower is an aspirational first performance for Tightrope Productions, a production company recently started by Philippa Lawford and Kiya Evans of Regent’s Park College. A cast of five, a set of only a few chairs, and a limited stage space would be a challenge for even the best actors. But Tightrope Productions pulls it off.

What impresses the audience most is the strong portrayal of the bipolar son Roland (played by Marcus Knight-Adams). He aptly balances hilarious one liners with a powerful presentation of manic depression and isolation. The tone of the entire narrative is established by his early monologue, which creates a sequence of questions that aren’t answered until the very end. Similarly, John Livesey (The Doctor) brought what the audience thought was a sane voice, and his ability to counterpart Madeleine Pollard’s (Audrey) eccentric helicopter parenting had the audience constantly reassessing what they thought they knew.

What made the performance particularly powerful was the fantastic costume design and make up. Alex Rugman (Hector) successfully pulled off playing an old man armed only with excellent facial expressions and a face full of professional standard make up to give the appearance of ageing.  But for me, the real star of the show was Louisa Iselin (Ingrid) who manages to play the least interesting of the characters in a way that makes the audience almost overlook her until it’s too late. Without going into plot details, Louisa plays the shy and quiet sister who  is described as having “no real thoughts of her own”. Louisa is able to act the simple child whilst masking the fact that she is the most powerful of the cast. The ability of both the actress and the director to underplay a character that becomes the protagonist is highly commendable and certainly unexpected.

Blavatsky’s Tower certainly has my recommendation. It touches on dark issues often neglected by stage dramas, while keeping a distinctive humour present throughout.

“A little-known gem”

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“The fault, dear Brutus, is not in our stars/But in ourselves, that we are underlings.”

Long before this quotation from Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar inspired the novel The Fault in Our Stars and the subsequent sniffle-making film, J.M. Barrie took inspiration for Dear Brutus.

The set-up for this rarely performed 1917 play bears a striking resemblance to Agatha Christie’s And Then There Were None, which it predates by twenty years: a group of seemingly disparate yet well-off strangers arrive at the house of a mysterious friend they scarcely know. The difference here is that (spoiler alert) this play doesn’t finish with most of the cast dead.

Piece by piece we learn that what all the characters want most of all is a second chance: from the unhappily married couple to the lazy old cad, the philandering husband to the aspirational butler. Sure enough that’s exactly what they get—the chance to see how different their lives could have been.

This opportunity arrives in a fantastical style which undeniably came from the same pen as Peter Pan and Neverland, as they are presented with their alternative lives in a magical wood on Midsummer’s Eve.

A nice enough idea, if a little quaint, and so I was hardly brimming with excitement as the play began. The opening is somewhat tedious, with the characters introduced slowly and one-by-one, but give it a chance and this little-known gem will start to grow on you.

The characters span the complete spectrum of upper class Edwardian stereotypes, and this was played to its full advantage with a pleasing amount of humour: at times it verges on farcical and there’s a decent amount of camp. Perhaps that’s not your cup of tea, but the audience certainly loved it and I did too.

But this is far from plain comedy—there is a real melancholy at the heart of this play. Each of the characters must confront their personal alternate reality, and this is hardly easy. The ‘parallel universe’ idea could seem hackneyed to a modern audience, but I can imagine that when first performed it must have been quite exciting.

This production managed to strike the balance perfectly between comedy and poignancy—it was never cloying but always genuine and heartfelt. This is a credit to the fantastic ensemble cast. There were no weak links and some cracking standout performances. I was very impressed with all the actors’ versatility for comedy and tragedy, which is not always seen in student productions.

There are some real belly laughs to be had, but the best moments in this play are surprisingly touching. Without giving away anything, trust me when I say that I have never seen mime used so devastatingly (and that’s a sentence I didn’t think I’d be writing this week).

The production isn’t perfect—the story demands more dramatic changes in scenery than a student production allows. This could have been combatted with careful use of lighting and sound, but this aspect of the play seemed a little under-rehearsed, which was a shame. However, I’d be quite happy to put this down to first night jitters, and the simple staging only served to accentuate the fantastic performances.

The chance to find a new classic is rare: in the age of the internet it’s perhaps even rarer. Dear Brutus doesn’t even have a Wikipedia page, and so it’s a joy to go and discover this fantastic play live. The best times at the theatre are those unexpected moments when you realise you’ve discovered a new favourite—Dear Brutus has certainly become one of mine.

Former Varsity boxer Tony Abbott challenged to political boxing match

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Reports have emerged that Tony Abbott, the former Prime Minister of Australia, has been challenged to a charity boxing match by Queensland Labor Senator Anthony Chisholm in Brisbane this July.

Abbott dismissed rumours of the match as “fake news”, having apparently quickly rejected Chisholm’s offer to face him.

But it may have been a lucky escape for Chisholm. Abbott’s boxing skills have been tested before—in Oxford.

In 1982, Abbott filled in for the Oxford Varsity boxing team against Cambridge during his studies, despite never having competed before.

Abbott remained undefeated in his Oxford matches.

Oxford Merchandise continues to expand in India

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Oxford Ltd., the University’s global brand licencing arm which runs Oxford Shops, is planning to expand its range of merchandise sold in India six years after it was launched in the country.

The company is likely to add five new brand licence partners this year to sell University of Oxford branded products in India, which the University earns a royalty from.

In India, Oxford’s brand licencing is managed by Bradford License India, a joint venture between USbased Bradford Licensing LLC and Franchise India Group. Currently, brand Oxford is marketed in India by three companies.

After meeting potential partners in India, Managing Director of Oxford Ltd, Chris Evans, told Live Mint: “To date, brand Oxford was restricted to apparel, school stationery and school bags.

“We are now planning to get into home furnishing, textile, hard furniture and educational toys. Considering the rapid growth of retail in India, we are looking at two new brand licences for educational products and stationery, and three to four for home furnishing.”

As well as these items, Oxford University also sells products like tea, chocolates and cookies under the brand name.

Mr. Evans added: “These products are also sold in India. But the division is managed from UK directly. “India is one of the key territories for brand Oxford. The opportunity is huge. At present, it is among the top six countries. There’s no reason why it should not be among the top two.”

However, most of the Oxford products that are sold in India are made in China. Evans excused this by pointing out that while the Oxford Ltd. controls the quality and authenticity of products, it does not control sourcing.

Evans did admit that China was on the company’s radar, though, commenting: “We are working on opening a few dozens of Oxford stationery stores in China over the next few months. We’ll look at India later.”

As well as this, Evans said Oxford stands for education and imparting knowledge and would like to emphasise these characteristics in his work: “Everything that we do has relevance to the University.”

Aditya Badaya, Core Team Member for Project Access India, welcomed the news: “Oxford is one of the most revered international universities in India, and I think this is a great move by the University to branch out!

“The number of Indians coming to Oxford has been increasing every year, and such outreach programs further cement the place of the university in attracting the growing pool of Indians seeking education abroad.”

The first-year PPE student added: “I think it allows for Oxford to compete in popularity and brand recognition with top tier American universities, which have had a surge in popularity as favoured destinations for Indians over the past few years.”

The Oxford brand is licenced for merchandising across 80 nations.

Oxford study fears for “fake news” during French election

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A study conducted by the Oxford Internet Institute (OII) has revealed that junk or ‘fake news’ is playing a significant role in the run-up to French and German elections.

The Oxford Internet Institute is a multidisciplinary research and teaching department of the University of Oxford, dedicated to the social science of the Internet.

On its website, it states that they hope to tackle the “big questions” of society, as well as to “shape the development of our digital world for the public good”.

Their investigation of URLs shared on Twitter in the weeks leading up to the French election in particular also raised concerns about Russian involvement.

Although in France almost half of the links pointed to professional news content, 15 per cent of content circulated came from professional political content produced by the government and political parties and 20 per cent to other sources of political news and information.

Of this 20 percent, twelve percent of the links have been identified as known Russian sources, including Russia Today (RT). Around a quarter have been labeled as junk news, which does not come from Russian sources but from “other extremist, sensationalist sources including French extreme right wing websites”.

The OII found that the bulk of France’s junk traffic targeted Emmanuel Macron, but that “highly automated accounts” also circulated large amounts of traffic about Francois Fillon, a pro-Russian candidate, and occasionally about Socialist candidate Benoit Hamon.

It said that the run-up to German presidential elections in February “found Germans sharing four professionally produced news stories for every one piece of junk”. However, in both cases the OII concluded that French and German voters were sharing better quality news than US voters in the build-up to their election in November last year.

Clementine Desigaud, an MSc student at the OII who was involved in the study, told Cherwell: “I worked more particularly on the French memo. We found a modest amount of junk news shared on Twitter this week, and the amount coming from known Russian sources was even more modest.”

“However, the key takeaway is that French voters were sharing better quality news on Twitter than the US voters. For instance, in Michigan, in the days leading up to the US election, we found as much fake news as professional news shared on Twitter.

“German voters were also sharing better quality news on Twitter than the US voters. In Germany, the amount of URL pointing to known Russian sources is similar to France.

“So overall, it suggests that the German and French elections were less poisoned by fake news than the US election, and with a small amount of Russian content.”

Jake Smales, a third year French and Spanish student currently working in Rouen, said: “The amount of junk news that circulates and the impact that can have on the outcome of an election really does worry me.

“I’d like to think that most people can tell if an article or a Twitter account looks less credible, but I guess it is not so easy nowadays.

“What is reassuring, however, is that this French election hasn’t been tarnished by junk news and meddling from outside parties to the same extent as the US election, or so it seems.

“The French people I know have not been so concerned about this, although I cannot speak on behalf of everyone.”

In order to conduct the study, the OII collected one week of data from Twitter, in February for Germany and in March for France, using a list of hash tags referring to each presidential election.

University under fire for “Orwellian” guidance report

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Oxford University has faced criticism for a Trinity term newsletter published by the Equality and Diversity Unit, which warned against racist micro-aggressions.

According to the report, this “subtle, everyday racism can appear trivial. But repeated micro-aggressions can be tiring and alienating”.

The piece, entitled ‘Everyday Racism’, went on to say that racial micro-aggressions may include not making eye contact or speaking directly to people, as well as “not believing someone is British” by making jokes or drawing attention to their accent.

Dr. Joanna Williams, a lecturer in higher education at the University of Kent, said the guidance was “completely ridiculous”.

Speaking to The Telegraph, Dr. Williams said: “Essentially people are being accused of a thought crime. They are being accused of thinking incorrect thoughts based on an assumption of where they may or may not be looking.”

The Daily Mail gave the story a provocative headline: “Avoiding making eye contact or asking where someone is from are signs of RACISM says Oxford University in new snowflake row”.

The article included comments from Professor Frank Furedi, who said the advice was “Orwellian” and urged Oxford to “wake up to reality”.

He added: “To go from simply stating someone is racist based on what they say to assume they are unconsciously racist is a very Orwellian turn. Micro-aggressions empower the accuser to say that it doesn’t matter what you intend by that look, I just know by the look of your eyes you are racist.”

Femi Nylander, a campaigner with Rhodes Must Fall, reacted to the coverage from the newspapers: “We have become used to seeing reactionary articles from these publications, which decry the genuine grievances of minority students as simply the cries of a snowflake generation.”

Nylander’s criticism comes after Balliol College’s University Challenge team decided to “ethically boycott” the Daily Mail.

An Oxford University spokesman told Cherwell: “The Equality and Diversity Unit works with University bodies to ensure that the University’s pursuit of excellence goes hand in hand with freedom from discrimination and equality of opportunity and the newsletter is one way of advising and supporting staff towards achieving these aims.

However, the University have recently apologised for the newsletter.

In a series of tweets, the University replied to criticism: “We made a mistake. Our newsletter was too brief to deal adequately and sensibly with the issue.

“We are sorry that we took no account of other reasons for difference in eye contact and social interaction, including disability.

“Oxford deeply values and works hard to support students and staff with disabilities, including those with autism or social anxiety disorder.”

OUSU launch campaign to break class barriers

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OUSU is to create a campaign committed to tackling prejudice against working class students. A motion passed at the weekly meeting of OUSU Council on Wednesday mandated the creation a Student Union ‘Class Act’ Campaign.

The motion, submitted by Jaycie Carter and Eden Bailey, passed by an overwhelming majority, promising to set up a committee “open to all OUSU’s student members who self-identify as working class, low income, state comprehensive school educated, or a first-generation student.”

Jaycie Carter told Cherwell: “Currently, the needs of students represented by the Class Act campaign—working class, low income, state comprehensive school educated and first generation students—are neither adequately discussed nor addressed by the University or by our colleges.

“Once the access work finishes and we arrive at Oxford, the support too often ends. Our campaign aims to bring about much-needed change by representing these students, campaigning on their issues and providing them with support networks and community.”

The campaign’s directives include campaigning exclusively for the issues of those who “not only face barriers to reaching Oxford, but also face specific issues once they are here, which are… largely unaddressed.”

The motion mentioned the recent Educating All report, a survey of students from top Russell Group universities, in which “over 70 per cent of students who identified as working class agreed with the statement ‘your class was a barrier when integrating at university’.”

Eden Bailey, the OUSU VP for Academic Affairs who seconded the motion, said she was “thrilled” at the move.

She told Cherwell: “There is important work to be done across UK universities, particularly those in the Russell Group, in ensuring that all students feel truly welcome and are fully supported at university, regardless of their background.

“We will be providing representation that Class Act students currently don’t have to campaign on issues affecting them, creating networks that previously haven’t existed for students and alumni to meet and support each other, and provide relevant resources to support some of the specific welfare and academic needs of these students.”

The establishment of the campaign comes in light of St. Hilda’s appointing its first Class Liberation officer last November

Council votes to open up council and University buildings to the homeless

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Following the eviction of the Iffley Open House (IOH) group from their third squat, the city council passed a motion on Monday to make vacant buildings in Oxford available for use as temporary homeless shelters.

Liberal Democrat, Green and Labour councillors all showed support for the motion, which was passed by 30 votes to eleven.

Proposed by Green councillor David Thomas, the motion recognises the growing number of individuals sleeping rough in Oxford, as well as an increased awareness of homelessness in the city.

Councillors are also seeking to encourage landowners of vacant properties, including the University, in Oxford to make their buildings available for the homeless. There will also be a report commissioned in September, looking at how empty buildings could be used as temporary homeless shelters.

At the meeting, Councillor Rowley said: “The holy grail would be premises there for a reasonably long period of time, [for homeless people] to sleep, store possessions, and gain access to help.”

Former Lord Mayor and IOH volunteer Elise Benjamin told Cherwell:

“The motion is an encouraging step in the right direction.

“The success of Iffley Open House has shown that it is possible to provide temporary accommodation in empty buildings and that this will give the short-term support many homeless people need to get their lives back on track.”

However, she continued: “It’s sad that the petition to re-open Lucy Faithfull House (a homeless shelter) was met with a ‘do-nothing’ response from Council leaders and shocking to the homeless people who were at the Council.”

Turl Street Homeless Action volunteer and student Sam Fletcher also expressed disappointment at this decision of councillors to vote against reopening the shelter.

“No-one who simply walked around central Oxford could fail to see the absolute necessity for better provision and support for our city’s homeless,” he said.

Lucy Faithfull House was a homeless hostel with 61 beds, and provided homeless support for 30 years. It closed in January 2016, after the council withdrew its £500,000 funding.

More than 2,398 people have signed the petition calling for its re-opening.

Speaking at the meeting, Neo, a homeless man and member of Iffley Open House group said: “Reopening it would solve a massive issue and get a lot of people off the streets.

“There are a lot of people out there who want help, the people who you see on Cornmarket are just a tiny proportion of the homeless people out there.”

A housing solicitor at the meeting said that there had been a 300 per cent increase in the number of rough sleepers in Oxford, and described the motion to re-open Lucy Faithfull House as “one of construction and compassion”.

In response, councillors said that all of the beds that were available at Lucy Faithfull House have been replaced, with new, more suitable accommodation being provided.

O’Neill returns to Oxford

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Sean O’Neill returned to Oxford from NUS conference on Wednesday this week, missing the last day of the event amid controversy about historic comments on Twitter.

O’Neill was running for the Block of 15, a group of individually-elected members of the NUS’ National Executive Committee.

But on Wednesday, Oxford University Students Union (OUSU) released a statement on their website, stating that O’Neill would “no longer be participating in NUS National Conference.”

The statement read: “An investigation is currently being held by the NUS which will have the full cooperation of OUSU.

“As an institution, we remain committed to upholding the rights and wellbeing of all our students and will continually offer support to our members.”

It remains unclear whether the suspension of O’Neill’s participation was his decision or that of OUSU or the NUS. It follows a series of historic tweets containing anti-Semitic insults used by O’Neill were published in an article on Monday by the Independent.

O’Neill has apologised for the tweets, and said that they were intended as a “distateful joke”. Writing on Facebook, O’Neill said the comments “have been quoted out of their wider context.”

He said: “I was absolutely horrified to see this tweet. It flies in the face of my commitment to anti-fascism and anti-sexism.”

“It was five years ago, and I have no recollection of writing it. I can only assume it was an incredibly distasteful inside joke, or a reference to something someone else said the night before.

“I wholly, unreservedly apologise for having ever associated myself with these truly vile hashtags. I am ashamed, and reach out to all groups affected to say sorry.”

The emergence of the tweets provoked criticism from the Oxford University Jewish Society (JSoc), who described them as “shocking and grotesque” in a statement, and called for O’Neill’s resignation.

The JSoc statement said: “It is unacceptable that after a year of revelations of anti-semitism in student politics, some students still think this sort of behaviour is consistent with acting as an elected student representative.”

The controversy follows a string of anti-Semitism accusations which have surrounded the outgoing NUS president, Malia Bouattia.

She was previously accused of “outright racism” by the House of Commons Home Affairs Select Committee, after having described Birmingham University as a “zionist outpost” before the beginning of her presidency.

O’Neill had been running for election to the Block of 15, along with Aliya Yule, another Oxford NUS Delegate. Both supported Bouattia’s re-election as president.

Yule and O’Neill stood on a platform promising “to keep pushing NUS in the direction of free education, welfare, and liberation.”

They had both been elected as NUS delegates in the OUSU elections in Feb-
ruary, on the slate Count on Us.

Sean O’Neill did not respond to Cherwell’s request for comment on his suspension.