Friday, May 2, 2025
Blog Page 2180

Brolin’s Bush Stone’s Throw From Truth

0

W is pronounced ‘Dubya’. We know this, not least, because Oliver Stone opens his film with a discourse on nicknames. George ‘W’ Bush is shown, first in a White House meeting dolling out crude monikers: turd blossom (Rove), balloon foot (Powell), guru (Rice), and rummy (Rumsfeld).

We are then shown a teenage W’s fraternity pledge during which he is able to remember the entire fraternity by their nicknames (the ironic result is that the young W avoids having more whisky poured down his throat).

Stone’s counter-intuitive commentary does not stretch to his central thesis. He claims that W’s decision to invade Iraq arose from his relationship with his father. After depicting the many disappointments W causes his father (W can’t play baseball or hold down a job, and leaves his girlfriend pregnant) the Freudian tension culminates when father and son have a real tussle, and later when W dreams about fighting him in the Oval Office.

W’s own doubts about his ability to play baseball (and to win his father’s love) are played out in stadium dream sequences, in the last of which (the closing scene of the film) he drops a catch he had earlier made.

The run-up to the invasion of Iraq monopolises the depiction of W’s presidency but does not ring true and will be cringe worthy for those who enjoy the work of Aaron Sorkin. This is in part because of the intense exposition in these scenes, but also because of clunky (but not necessarily inaccurate) scripting and the caricaturing of Condoleezza Rice (as a simpering yes-woman) and Karl Rove.

An incident in which Cheney points at a cartoon-like map representing threats in the Middle East was so reminiscent of Trey Parker and Matt Stone’s puppet movie Team America that one half-expected one of the principals to cry out ‘my god, that would be 9/11 times a thousand.’ In using phrases like ‘I’m the decider’ (W tells Cheney not to challenge him when others are in the room) and ‘fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, won’t get fooled again’, meanwhile, Oliver Stone tries to provide more realism by transposing public utterances into private White House conversations.

Earlier scenes in W’s life are interwoven with the contemporary in the style Stone perfected in Nixon. These earlier scenes are an attempt to provide the Freudian thesis with its backing. They are well paced, and give some genuine insight into the character of the 43rd president.

The first meeting with Laura (in which W continuously talks with his mouth full of barbeque food), is endearing, although Laura (Elizabeth Banks) never seems to age through the rest of the film. Most significant is a scene in which W, after debating an opponent in his first and unsuccessful congressional race, drives his car into the garage door in frustration.

The resulting promise W makes is to ‘out-Christian and out-Texas Texas’. However, from that moment on the viewer is led unquestioningly through scenes in which W professes his religion and claims to have been called by God to run for the presidency.

The same straight bat treatment is given to W’s drying out following his 40th birthday. Stone suggests W himself decided to give up drinking after nothing more than a dizzy spell during a run and under no duress from his family. In scenes showing W’s shrewd work on his father’s campaign in 1988 and his courting of religious conservatives, Stone is on safer ground, and is making important biographical points which again push against common prejudices about W.

In the sanctification of W’s father (James Cromwell) Stone fares less well. Cromwell dominates the screen both through the lines given and his acting. In scenes including the depiction of the first Gulf War the viewer is given to believe Bush 41’s only failing is his inability to relate to his son.

If this is the reason why W invades Iraq, as Stone is suggesting, he is led on by his friends. Cheney is painted in a familiar and sinister light (circumventing CIA director George Tenet to legitimise evidence that Iraq had attempted to acquire yellowcake from Niger).

Stone portrays W as innocent and unsophisticated, never asking enough questions (displayed at the climax of the film in W’s anger that no weapons of mass destruction are discovered following the invasion), but as having been in the room when the case was made (by Cheney and his map) in terms of both oil and regional power.

The film makes scant reference to 9/11 and the effect this had on W, leaving the case for war horribly out of context. What Stone delivers is interesting and entertaining, but not much more than fictional psychobabble.

Picture Politics

0

Today once again brings the master of controversial political filmmaking back onto the silver screen as the three time Academy Award winning director and screenwriter Oliver Stone releases his new biopic on the life, thus far, of one of the least popular Presidents in American history, simply entitled W. (pronounced, of course, “dub-ya”).

Stone is not a man who shies from political cinema: his past works have split opinion at every juncture. Take for instance his semi-autobiographical masterpiece, Platoon, documenting life in the Vietnam War.

This film’s overt criticism of the nature of this war and the actions of the American troops in Vietnam, written and filmed in response to John Wayne’s patriotic disaster, The Green Berets, courted great criticism and also great admiration for its realistic portrayal of life in war.

Stone did not stop there. His conspiracy-packed thriller JFK (presumably the beginning of his obsession with Presidential initials) presented a widely attacked view on the events surrounding Kennedy’s death in 1963.

From here to Nixon, where Stone, aided by a mesmerising and chameleon-like turn from the great Anthony Hopkins, arguably gave Nixon a more human face than he has often been afforded in popular culture before or since. Stone is not a man to toe the line and once again his foray into murky political waters with his biopic, surely the first of its kind, that of an incumbent President, makes us question whether this brand of highly political film-making has its place in cinema.

Political filmmaking has undoubtedly been at the forefront of cinema since its creation, and some of its greatest and most powerful works have undoubtedly come with serious political points to make. Some of our most political writers have indeed graced the screen with their scripts.

Take for instance Arthur Miller, a man who famously refused to give evidence to the House of Un-American Activities who sought to blacklist “communists” in the world of entertainment. It was he, after all, who scripted Elia Kazan’s On The Waterfront, a film not just famous for the brooding looks of a young (not yet clinically obese and socially reclusive) Marlon Brando, but also a film that showed the power of one man against the oppression of authority power. Can we possibly see the hint of a political allegory there?

In more recent years the filmmaking world has continued to be swayed by the political situation and represent this in its output. Take the intense political distrust and cynicism that overflowed from the Watergate crisis, creating a set of political thrillers in the mid-1970s portraying a society who had lost faith in the establishment, high amongst these two classic political thrillers All the President’s Men and Three Days of the Condor.

Both films attacked a society where the immorality of highly placed individuals had seen the abuse of power and lost the respect of those whom they had been entrusted to represent. So too in the present day burning political issues make their way into cinema, from Michael Moore to Team America, and now to Oliver Stone’s new biopic which puts the Bush administration in the line of fire.

Cinema is one of our most accessible art forms and beyond its purpose to entertain lies a chance to make a point. In a world caught in the grips of political intrigue over an American election, it is only right that film should have its say about that which influences its viewers so much.

Cinema is not escapism, it is a means of expression such as any other art form. Politics is truly alive in film, not least in Stone’s new project.

Easy Virtue

0

The only reason I’m not giving this film five stars, asides from a slight bias against mainstream cinema, is Jessica Biel. I’ve never found her particularly versatile as an actress; my notes inform me that she told the director she’d need help, since she “doesn’t have a sense of bitterness or cynicism in her”.

It’s called acting dear… And she just lacks the imperative classic 20s style.
Now for the facts. Easy Virtue can only be described as a fucking fabulous film. It is sensational, sensual, classic, decadent, deliciously funny underpinned by a sense of darkness. Noel Cowardian humour drips from every line, as the dialogue begins with chilling British reserve versus joyous wry sarcasm and descends into a veritable war-zone of sharp-tongued shrapnel, dead lap dogs have never been so funny. The soundtrack is crucial, and there is an almost orgasmic moment when a dirty, gritty, 20s jazz sounding version of Sex Bomb overwhelms the senses. You just have to love a movie that climaxes on a tempestuous tango!

The story follows two newly-weds, young Englishman John Whittaker and his spur of the moment American bride Larita when they arrive at John’s country manor home, reminiscent of a Samuel Beckett space in its deadly stuffed-animal stillness. Sparks fly between Larita and John’s family as their equally shady pasts and stubborn presents collide. The characters are delicious in their quirks and symmetry, from the drunk butler to the clinging mother. Ben Barnes does a brilliant job at depicting the young John, who dissolves from a sensuous young man into a bewildered little boy; Kristin Scott Thomas is her usual exquisite self, acting the “villain” of the piece. But Colin Firth is the true star of the show. There is the distinct feeling that he has finally been given a role to really get his teeth into; he’s beautiful, wonderfully funny and desperately dark.

The film ends just the way you secretly hoped it would, without cliché or predictability, and you find yourself starry eyed, hands clasped, laughing in sheer pleasure as the credits kick in. Go see it; trust me, you haven’t had this much fun in far too long!

4 Stars

 

 

Perfect Vision

0

Like printing, it’s hard to believe that it took so long for someone to think of telescopes-how was it possible that people used spectacles for three hundred years before someone tried using two lenses and a bit of tubing to bring far objects close and create an advantage over an enemy any general would drool over? But despite a few shadowy claims, the earliest certain reference to them is a patent application from 1608, and it’s the four hundredth anniversary of this the exhibition celebrates, even though the earliest telescopes it has are from around the 1670s (no major loss).

The information on the walls (there’s no guidebook) is limited but to-the-point, and gives a good sense of a time when science was a respectable hobby for gentlemen, even if supplying their optical demands was a cut-throat business with trade secrets and patent lawsuits: many telescopes are decorated with fishskin, painted designs and elaborately turned baroque endpieces, though functionality moves in towards the end of the exhibition (rather wisely: telescope tubes in Newton’s time were made of cardboard). It’s amazing to think of the meticulousness of the astronomers of the time, grinding mirrors so meticulously one had his sister on hand to feed him so he could work without pause, with no more self-interested a purpose than cataloguing the stars.

It’s also fascinating to look at the technological dead ends, like telescopes where the end you hold is the bigger one (easier to hold, before new technology allowed telescopes to shrink). The same feeling of looking at different ways the present could have gone goes throughout the museum, an amazing toyshop of technology, some strangely unlike modern equivalents (T.E. Lawrence’s camera, for example, with detachable lenses clearly based on microscope design) and some strangely familiar (a Zeiss microscope from about 1910 with white lettering and black enamel looking, if not utterly modern, at least like it could have rolled out of Jena in the ‘seventies). This is in no way a must-see exhibition, but it’s still interesting, and if you haven’t been to the museum already it makes now a good time to see what you’ve been walking past.

Three stars

 

All Stiles, no substance

0

As an Art Historian I’ve always felt that whenever people say ‘that’s rubbish, a monkey could do better’, it’s just a cop-out. Generally speaking I quite like contemporary art, not because I’d like to hang it on my walls or I necessarily think its ‘good’, but because it tends to make me think.

Last Sunday, however, I experienced something that has never happened to me before – I came out of an exhibition feeling totally depressed. It wasn’t because Kieran Stiles had highlighted the plight of starving children, commercial greed or terminal diseases, nothing of the sort; he’d just left me feeling totally flat. I felt genuinely miserable because I could hardly find anything to applaud in his exhibition.

It’s not just that my siblings’ nursery school paintings were better – one could probably say the same of Tracy Emin’s work, although I really hope my little sister never takes photos of herself shoving money into her crotch – but Stiles’ work was just unavoidably bland.

His paintings are splattered and daubed in uncomplicated representations of countryside scenes of the kind that seem to be popular in upper-middle class kitchens. They’re harmless enough but there seems to be so little to them.
I’m normally on the fence as to whether titles help a picture. If there’s something particular to be conveyed then they make sense, but Stiles’ titles remove what little interest there is in his works. ‘Beach’ adds absolutely nothing to a pastel coloured set of streaks and even removes any hint or suggestion of depth or ambiguity.

There’s no hidden meaning here. Much worse; there seems to be no meaning at all. Stiles’ works are extremely simple, and their composition is so uninspired that the only thing I can find to say in their defence is that the colours are quite nice. Shoot me now.

Perhaps I’m being unfair to Stiles. This is, after all, a commercial gallery designed to sell local artists at reasonable prices. But I certainly wouldn’t waste £600-£800 on one of these.

One star

Poetry in Motion

0

I am a sucker for Sylvia Plath. Something about blonde Anglo-American manic depressives just does it for me. So when I spotted her name in Andrew Motion’s Ways of Life, the book very quickly found its way onto my shelf.

It almost found its way off again, though. Ways of Life is a collection of Motion’s essays and reviews, subtitled ‘On Places, Painters and Poets’, and the Plath piece is scandalously short. Despite that unforgivable failing, though, I decided to give the other pieces a try. Since Motion’s a multi-prizewinning Poet Laureate and all, I figured it couldn’t hurt.

And, in fact, the book starts brilliantly. Motion’s essays on places are carefully arranged in a symphony of plangent melancholy. A deep sense of vulnerability pervades them; the very first essay is haunted by his mother’s death, a memory that casts its long shadow throughout the book.

His landscapes are as troubled as his emotions, often becoming so strongly personified as to threaten him; the air ‘hurtles and charges’, while thorns ‘fling’ their arms up ‘in horror’. This strong sense of movement extends to the narrator too, who seems unable to rest in the places of his past but is instead constantly journeying, constantly in – wait for it – motion.

Where, besides bad puns, does this journey lead? As references to, and parallels with other writers appear, you can feel Motion self-consciously claiming his identity as a writer, sheltering in words where he couldn’t with places.
Yet this emerging sense of identity swiftly disappears again in the essays on painters and poets, which constitute the bulk of the book. Absorbed in his discourse on others rather than himself, he trades Andrew Motion the writer for Andrew Motion the reviewer, faultlessly erudite and faultlessly unemotional.

Not that it’s a bad thing. As a critic Motion valuably highlights lesser-known poets like John Clare, and lesser-known works like Donne’s Devotions Upon Emergent Occasion, all in a highly accessible and informative style even for the casual reader.

But it does mean that the book has a highly specific and limited appeal. Orhan Pamuk’s essay collection Other Colours, for example, is a fusion of memories, meditations, political commentary, as well as literary opinions appealing to the general reader; Ways of Life on the other hand, notwithstanding the fine few essays on places, is much more impersonal and dominated by reviews.

So if you love Motion’s writing, or want to find out more about the people in whom he’s interested, then by all means pick this book up. Otherwise, you’ll probably have more fun reading stuff by blonde Anglo-American manic depressives.

Three stars

Your guide to Election Night

0

So here we go. In 36 hours the United States will have a new President and if the polls are to be believed arise sir Barack Obama.

Below is your print-out-and-keep hour by hour guide to tomorrow night for those of you planning to watch the returns on tv. If you’re going to be by a computer join me for one final liveblog which will be coming via my phone from the Union’s election night party.

Oh, and a quick plug. Last week I joined a panel to discuss the election for Second Look. Click here for audio joy. Finally, a word on this blog. From later this week I’ll be starting a series of posts looking back at the campaign season and the key issues/changes it raised. I’ll also be widening my focus to American culture at large and, if you’re really lucky, there might even be a bit of English politics as well.

=============================

All times are for the UK.

11pm – Majority of polls in Indiana shut. McCain is still the slight favourite to win this state but if the networks can’t call the polls straight away things are looking good for Obama. If Obama wins early here get ready for a landslide.

Senate-wise Kentucky (which also shuts its polls at this point) is one of 3 key races where the Democrats will be looking for an upset if they are to reach 60 seats. The other two, Georgia (12pm) and Mississippi (1am) will start to report later. A footnote here – there is a rule in Georgia whereby if one candidate doesn’t reach 50% a run-off is held).

12pm – Polls shut in Virginia and Florida. Both are key toss-up states but since the financial crisis and bailout Obama has enjoyed a healthy lead in Virginia paritcuarly. A win here for the Democrats gives McCain a very narrow route to 270 votes and probably indicates an Obama win. If Florida goes too it’s a done deal.

On the other hand, if Florida goes for McCain and Virginia is slow to be called we could be in for a nail-biter.

12.30am – Polls close in Ohio and North Carolina. A chance to assess the impact of the ground game. North Carolina has been very very close in recent polling so results from the state will give an opportunity to see how much Obama’s much-touted advantage in the get out the vote operation will be worth.

In 2004 the election came down to Ohio. No Republican President has ever reached the White House without turning the Buckeye state red and so Ohio’s 21 electoral college votes are crucial for John McCain. Obama has other routes to 270 (a combination of Virginia or Colorado with Iowa and Niew Mexico is a likely one) but an early call for the GOP on Ohio will mean the election will be heading late into the night.

1am – Polls shut in New Hampshire and Pennsylvania. Whilst McCain likes to think these are both toss-ups in reality they should be quick calls for Obama. This could well be the point where the networks project that Obama will reach 270 votes (states like California with 55 votes ahead are locked up for the Democrats) and declare him the winner. Polls also close in Missouri at this point, but don’t expect the state to be called any time soon, the state should be in for a close finish.

2am – Lots of results coming in from the right-hand two-thirds of the country. If it’s not done by now the focus will be turning to New Mexico, Colorado (in both these states polls shut now) and Nevada. One to watch at this point will also be Arizona. There’s a very real possibility that in the event of a landslide McCain could even lose his home state – he was forced to play defence there just two days ago.

Also of interest here is the closely fought Minnesota senate race between comedian Al Franken and Norm Coleman. Franken is currently slightly favoured and will be a cruical pickup for the Dems if they are to have any chance of reaching that magic veto-proof majority of 60-40.Minnesota would likely represent the 59th seat for the Democrats (including independents Sanders and Lieberman).

3am – The last of these three results will come in from Nevada. Polls also shut in Iowa. The latter should be safe for Obama but if it’s still in the air at this stage something has gone badly wrong with the polling and Iowa’s 7 electoral college votes will be very valuable for John McCain.

4am – California, Washington and Oregon start reporting results. All three are safely blue at the presidential level but there is a close governor race in Washington for hardcore politicos to look out for.

5am – Alaskan results will start coming in. By now the presidential race will be over one way or another but there’s a senate seat up for grabs in Palin’s home state and following the conviction of Republican incumbent Senator Ted Stevens it should be there for the taking for the Democrats.

A word on these timings: given the expectations of record turnout and in spite of the quantity of early voting it is likely that counting will take longer than normal, and that poll opening hours may even be extended. As a result the fact that states won’t be called straight away does not mean they have suddenly become very close necessarily, it could just be slow counting. Following some embarrassments in the primaries (New Hampshire anyone?) the networks are increasingly suspicious of exit polling as a predictor of the actual result.

And finally, my prediction:

Obama: Kerry states + NM, CO, NV, VA, OH, NC, FL, IA, MO

Giving a final score of Obama 364 vs. McCain 174.

Cherwell Star: Oliver Wright

0

This summer, Olly Wright found himself sitting in a 1989 VW Polo in Hyde Park, waiting for the starting horn to begin his expedition across two thirds of the world’s circumference in the Mongol Rally. The first year St Edmund’s Hall medic spent the next twenty three days driving across Europe through Bulgaria, Romania, Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Russia before embarking upon a treacherous six day crossing of Mongolia to the finish line in Ulan Batur.

Wright and two friends raised £1,500 for Mercy Corps Mongolia and Hope and Homes for Children before their departure to qualify their entry on the rally. Using the true skills of a resourceful student Wright procured £200 sponsorship from ‘Tractorland’ in exchange for allowing a model of Tractor Ted to accompany him on his expedition, promising to photograph him throughout. Wright also got given the beige 1989 VW Polo (affectionately named Gordon) by Jection Garage, and was so ready for the Mongol Rally.

“Out of all the countries we visited, Iran was the place I’d like to back to above all,” Wright said. “It was nothing like we’d expected. We were invited in to strangers’ houses for supper-everybody there was so friendly” he added.

Beside the overwhelming kindness from so many people though, the trip did not go without hitches. “We were let in to Turkmenistan, but then were locked in ‘no-man’s-land’ for twenty four hours” Wright said. “My friend also got his guitar confiscated at the border crossing in Azerbaijan, which was pretty upsetting, but we got it back eventually.”

Equally the car itself did not quite manage the trip without problems. “It was crossing Mongolia that Gordon really began to suffer,” Wright reminisces with a distinct glint in his eye. “The exhaust fell off, and we drove over a rock that punctured our fuel tank, though it’s amazing what you can do with duct tape and a bar of soap” he says.

Having made it to Ulan Batur, Wright caught the Trans Siberian back home. “It wasn’t until we got back to England that it really sunk in that we’d actually made it,” he says. “When I arrived in Ulan Batur itself, there was no massive rush of relief-I just don’t think that we could really believe it.”

Having survived all the drama of the summer, Wright said that the overwhelming greatness of the trip was how it brought friends together. “We’ve all already joined climbing clubs, and have set our sights on Everest in three year’s time. Otherwise we’re thinking about cycling across America, or maybe China.” It seems that having survived the Mongol Rally, the world is Wright’s oyster.

 

Restaurant Review: Edamame

0

It’s Thursday, and outside the effervescent limits of the Oxford bubble that would usually mean only one day until the weekend. Yet, stuck as we are in this antiquated limbo-land, there is no weekend. No god-sent two day break but only a perpetual tedium of days without dates stretching out before us. But fear not, there is one way to punctuate your work/drinking/sleeping routine.

I’m not talking about college drink-fests or evenings of Oxford Union hackery, which I’m sure already fill your week. I’m talking about the simple pleasures of good food with friends. That’s why Thursdays should be penciled into to your Blackwells calendar, as Sushi night at Edamame. When life in Ox-land gets you down you can momentarily escape along your tastebuds to a pseudo-Japan, minus the geishas and sliding paper doors I’m afraid.

So why are Thursdays the selected instance for such a transportation? You may ask – the truth is, in keeping with the rest of Edamame’s bizarre opening hours, there is no logical or even vaguely plausible explanation. Like all the other eccentricities of Oxford, it’s best just to go along with it because if you happen to want sushi on any other day of the week YO! is your only option. And sushi at Edamame is definitely better than the shards of plastic rice at Yo!

It’s generally fresh and well prepared, they have a great nigri set for seven squid, which although unadventurous is pretty satisfying when doused in wasabi and soy sauce. Only don’t be fooled into thinking that demand indicates quality – only limited supply unfortunately; I await a far-east Asian culinary revolution in Oxford! Because I am an avid supporter of the principle of raw food – why cook something when its tastes better if you don’t? (bacteria is rarely fatal nowadays) and because I love sushi, I can’t help but be happy stepping into Edamame’s tiny teeming dining area with a group of rowdy friends and being crammed onto a rickety Ikea table. No advice needed on what to order; sushi is as variable as it is invariable, so just close your eyes and point at the menu and order a large bottle of sake, because Edamame is about the experience (and not necessarily the food.)

If you are left standing out in the chilly mist of one Thursday too many then you could always go to Edamame for lunch, its really good value and has a varied and exciting menu. The salads are a step above the usual English conception of a plate of lettuce drowned in heavy dressing. They are refreshing and have interesting flavour combinations that zing on the tongue, I especially felt oddly rejuvenated by the wasabi pickled cucumber, which electrified my nasal passage. The fish is definitely a highlight of the menu. Theterriaki salmon that I sunk my teeth into was oozing moisture, aka it wasn’t overcooked, and was the right side of sweet, unlike many a version that I’ve had in my lifetime. Other dishes such as the ginger pork were extremely edible and a welcome change from the kind of grey rubber that they serve in hall at some of the colleges, which is enough to give, me at least, pork-infested nightmares. And all these crafted dishes are complimented by the best sticky rice in the bubble; composed of gooey grains rather than unloved pellets. In short Edamame is the best alternative to the processed mechanized hell of Yo! And as I have yet to visit Japan and therefore don’t know any better it definitely sates my hungering for oblongs of Asian flavors… every week.

Travelling in Turkey

0

Since I began visiting Turkey frequently as a child, I’ve always thought that it must be one of the strangest countries on Earth. It borders Iran and Greece, but it’s not European and not exactly Middle Eastern. It has elections and a heavy military intrusion into politics, but it’s not really a democracy nor a military regime. It’s home to enormous wealth, in the mansions on the Bosphorous with their multitude of Bentleys, and great poverty. It’s taken so much from the West and yet remains so idiosyncratically Turkish. It’s confused and confusing, and one of the most interesting destinations in the world.

My visits to Turkey have always begun with a stay with my extended family in Ankara, the city created to house the new Republican government. For a country with such a distinctive history and culture, Ankara’s capacity for mind-numbing monotony is quite remarkable. Only the bureaucratic at heart can enjoy Ankara’s attractions (the most interesting being a mausoleum): others would do well to avoid the manufactured metropolis.

Its polar opposite lies a mere 5-hour bus journey away, in one of the most beautiful and fascinating places on Earth, the former capital of Istanbul. It may be a cliché to say so, but Istanbul is the one of the only cities I have visited where I expect to see something genuinely surprising every day; an old Armenian woman, weighed down by her stunning, antique jewelry in a crowded minibus in Sariyer, a hip hop record store blasting some classic NaS in Beyoglu, a gaggle of peroxide blond, Istanbul socialites picking up Balenciaga bags in Nisantasi…

And then there are the aspects of Istanbul which, despite its uniqueness, make it so stereotypically Turkish; men playing backgammon in tea gardens overlooking the Bosphorous, the smell of freshly baked baklava, the markets full of Kurdish traders with their fresh produce, the poverty of those newly arrived from the rural South-East… All this activity, that which is unique to Istanbul and the normal bustle of a crowded Turkish city, takes place against an instantly recognizable skyline: centuries-old Byzantine and Ottoman palaces, mosques and homes, the modern architecture of a newly industrialised country and, of course, that vast, sparkling, deep blue body of water that cuts the city in half, the Bosphorous.

Despite the impression that Istanbul gives to Westerners, it is important to remember that Turkey is a country which has remained distant from European intellectual and cultural traditions. Visitors would do well to leave their Western conceptions of liberty, individualism and rationalism at home; the Enlightenment never reached the remote villages of central Anatolia nor the nomadic tribes of the East.

Turkish society remains authoritarian and hierarchical, with a strong deference to elders, authority (legitimate or otherwise) and the past. In Turkey, you are not viewed as an individual with a capacity for independent action. Your family history, your regional origin, your ethnicity and your religion determine who your friends are, which newspapers you read, which music you like, the area you live in and so on.

Aggravating this sense of fatalism is the deeply superstitious nature of Turks, with belief in the power of dreams and fortune-tellers widespread. Indeed, many Turks quite easily take what can only be fantasy as fact.

One particular event in my family history comes to mind: a man, who had fallen in love with my great-grandmother when they were teenagers, waited 50 years for my great-grandmother’s husband to die, only to be refused by his former flame and die himself the next day of a broken heart. “Events” like this often seem more likely to have their origin in the works of Gabriel Garcia Marquez than my family history.

Factual stories of centuries-long family feuds and blood vendettas are also commonplace. Visits to my father’s tiny, almost pre-historic village in the heavily Kurdish east, with its very own sacred pear tree, have confirmed this aspect of Turkish culture.

Unsurprisingly, this is not a nation in which liberal democracy has had much success, experiencing three military coups in three decades. The military remains the most powerful institution in Turkey, a fact which becomes obvious to foreign visitors thanks to the pervasive army presence.

Tourists will also grow quickly accustomed to the image of Ataturk, a military commander who established the Turkish Republic and governed it under a single-party system. In front of every government building, in every store and café, in houses, hospitals and schools, Ataturk’s stern blue eyes are watching over the Turkish public. Despite the fact that I’ve spent a considerable amount of time in Turkey, I still find this hero worship of its founder more than a little disquieting.

Equally disquieting is the fact that, every time I visit Turkey, it seems the country has made few advances towards the nominally democratic ideals upon which it was founded. During my last visit, in September 2008, the government banned YouTube for broadcasting anti-Ataturk propaganda and was jailing journalists almost every week.

In 1951, the Turkish language’s greatest poet, Nazim Hikmet, was exiled to Russia and more than half a century on, it’s greatest novelist, the noble-prize winning Orhan Pamuk, has suffered a similar fate. Essentially, the Western media’s portrayal of Turkey as a beacon of hope in the political disaster zone of the Middle East could not be further from the truth.

This article may present a confusing portrait of Turkey. While this could reflect my own love-hate relationship with the country, it might also be the natural result of Turkey itself being a confused nation. Like the children of the large Turkish diaspora, it stands with one foot in modern, liberal Europe and the other in its Oriental past… desperately trying to keep its balance, and take a step forward.