Friday 27th June 2025
Blog Page 409

The making of Bong Joon-Ho: Memories of Murder

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Perhaps the last, if not only good thing to happen this year was the ascension of Korean director Bong Joon-Ho from cult film legend to global cultural icon. As a film fan, it’s always satisfying to see one of world cinema’s leading auteurs make a break into the mainstream, especially when it’s for a work as urgent and accomplished as last year’s Parasite. Of course, a meteoric rise to fame like this yields countless new fans desperate to find out what else the director has to offer, and to answer that very question Curzon Artificial Eye had released into cinemas nationwide – before the second lockdown’s untimely interruption – Bong’s breakout (and, I’d argue, best) film: 2003’s Memories of Murder.

On a level of pure formal control, Bong is undoubtedly one of the true masters of his generation – his gift for painterly compositions and narratively forceful staging is akin to that of Kurosawa, whilst his brutally efficient cutting, intricate plotting and sense for cinematic rhythm calls to mind Hitchcock – but Bong consistently backs up this technical precision with an attention to thematic and emotional detail that, combined with his now infamously anarchic approach to genre convention, renders him a singular force in the landscape of modern cinema.

The director’s most commercially successful releases tend to be those where he’s at his boldest and most bluntly allegorical, from The Host’s monster-as-product-of-American-Neo-Imperialism to Snowpiercer’s train-as-capitalist-class-structure and Parasite’s more refined, vertical reinvention of the same central metaphor. But Bong has also proven himself capable of comparatively more grounded, low-key works (‘comparatively’ being the key word here – this is still the man who made Chris Evans slip on a fish), such as 2009’s Mother, a taut, oedipally charged thriller about a mother trying to clear her son’s name after he’s accused of murder and, of course, Memories of Murder.

Memories gives a loosely fictionalised account of the investigation into the Hwaseong serial murders, a series of rapes and killings that occurred between 1986 and 1991 – particularly notable for two reasons, one being that they were the first serial killings South Korea had known, the other being that, until a year ago, they had never been solved, with the mystery remaining in the public consciousness for decades.

The film concerns itself mainly with Park Doo-Man (played with typical bravura by regular Bong collaborator Song Kang-Ho), a local detective claiming to have ‘shaman’s eyes’ who stumbles upon the first of the murdered girls and finds himself, alongside his partner, woefully out of his depth, as it becomes apparent that the tried and tested small-town cop method of ‘catching criminals with your feet’, forging evidence, and beating confessions out of any suspect you can find doesn’t quite hold up to scrutiny when dealing with a meticulous and methodical serial killer. Enter Seo Tae-Yoon (played by Kim Hyang-Sung), a big-city cop sent to help from Seoul whose methods differ drastically from Park’s, with his derision of the former’s reliance on folk wisdom, his assertion that ‘documents never lie’ and his nagging insistence on paying close attention to the evidence at hand.

In typical Bong fashion, this ideological conflict is exploited for maximum comic effect – Detective Park tries everything from going to public baths to look at men’s pubic hair to consulting a mystic for help with the case – but Bong is the master of the tonal tightrope walk, and accordingly, this humour is rooted in a tangible sense of frustration and despair that eventually comes to consume the whole film as its main characters sink further and further into obsessive desperation, making sure that the horrific nature of the violence at the heart of its story never leaves our minds.

Adding to this is the attention Bong gives to the political situation at the periphery of the narrative – the South Korean military dictatorship of the 1980s. Though the violence of the police in the film is initially presented as slapstick, it’s indicative of the widespread, state-sanctioned violence that plagued the country in the aftermath of 1980’s Gwangju massacre.

In one short sequence relatively early on, we bear witness to our detectives in one of the many brutal confrontations that took place between police and student protesters across the nation throughout this period. Later, the detectives find themselves unable to call upon a garrison to help catch the killer due to them being busy suppressing yet another demonstration. And in one of the film’s most upsetting moments, we watch as the killer takes one of his victims in the midst of a routine air raid drill. Here Bong’s camera remains cold and still, firmly focusing on the girl’s terrified face as the sirens in the background make his point to us clear: this could have been prevented. For Bong, the blood of these women is as much on the hands of the militaristic government as it is those of the elusive serial killer.

Memories starts as ostensibly a subversive and irreverent story about detectives solving a murder case. But it reveals itself to be instead an exploration into the irrevocable psychological agony of desperation and defeat, an indictment of a fascistic regime that, through its own authoritarianism and institutional incompetence, allowed this murderer to commit his crimes, and perhaps above all, a sort of exorcising of a collective trauma still present in the Korean national psyche at the time of its release. Bong bookends his film with images of children, a deeply resonant, if not especially subtle, symbol of innocence – an innocence that is, in a way, shared by Detective Park at the film’s start, and one that he no longer knows by its end.

Now the film is being presented in a new 4K restoration, allowing Bong and cinematographer Kim Hyung-Ku’s rich, carefully crafted imagery to be seen in the optimal digital format, as clear and crisp as it’s ever been. Its look is a persistently tactile one, and this new restoration only deepens its sense of visual texture, from the golden wheat fields of its opening, to its grim and grimy police station basements and the rain-drenched train tracks of its sombre climax. Combined with the elegiac piano score from Japanese composer Taro Iwashiro, an atmosphere of melancholy is established from the first shot, one that’s sustained and even expanded upon right up until its spine-chilling final frame. Memories of Murder is one of the great masterpieces of not just Korean cinema, but 21st century cinema as a whole.

Image via Wikimedia Commons / Dick Thomas Johnson

Oxford project to research origins of coinage

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A new project investigating the origins of money has been announced by the Faculty of Classics at Oxford University.

The project is set to last five years and will look into the origins and concept of coinage. Termed the ‘CHANGE Project’, the investigation will be led by Professor Andrew Meadows, a Fellow and Tutor in Ancient History at New College. 

A sum of €2 million has been awarded to the project in the form of a Consolidator Grant by the European Research Council to help fund the project for its anticipated duration.

Project leader Professor Meadows said: “We hope to generate a new account of the beginning of coinage and its rise as a monetary medium.” 

To achieve this, the project aims to gather evidence that will illuminate the history surrounding the development of the economy involving money. 

As a result, it is centred around the geographical region of Anatolia (Asia Minor), where money is said to have been invented. The time period covered will range from 7th Century BC to roughly 30 BC, after which point Anatolia was absorbed into the Roman Empire.

As part of the investigation, a database of around 50,000 coins will be assembled in multiple public collection to create a complete overview of the period. In addition, it will bring together a checklist of inscriptions as sources that recorded monetary exchanges. Professor Meadows added: “This data will permit a detailed mapping of movement of coinage over time and place, and allow the exploration of monetary behaviour across political and geographical space.”

In order to gather the data and research materials needed, a group of museums and collections are involved, including the Münzkabinett, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, and the British Museum. Professor Meadows had previously worked as the ‘Curator of Greek Coins’ at the British Museum.   

The importance of the project also extends beyond the scope of its subject matter. ‘CHANGE’ as a project will be conducted using both traditional and modern research methods, Digital Humanities tools. The project will be shared with Linked Open Data, which acts as an open platform where data can be accessed across the internet for free. 

Image credit: Linnaea Mallette / Needpix

Oxford announces LGBTQ+ lecture series

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Oxford University is to launch a new twice-yearly lecture series, The Michael Dillon LGBTQ+ Lectures, at St Anne’s college, to facilitate discussions around LGBTQ+ issues and inspire the university body.

The series is named in honour of alumnus Michael Dillon, who was the first person in the country to undergo hormone treatment and gender reassignment surgery. He studied at St Anne’s college (then known as the Society of Home Students) during the 1930s, where he read Classics, before training as a physician at Trinity College, Dublin and becoming a transgender rights pioneer. 

Following his transition, the University Registrar agreed to alter his records to state that he had graduated from Brasenose, which was then all male. Following the unwanted press attention he fled to India to study Buddhism before passing away aged 47 in 1962.

The series is being presented in collaboration with the charitable organisation Frontline AIDS, who in 2019 provided 2.6 million marginalised and vulnerable people with HIV tests. They also work alongside the Elton John AIDS Foundation to provide grants to marginalised LGBTQ+ people, sex workers and drug users who struggle to access support for HIV via their Rapid Response Fund which operates in 47 countries.

An online event to launch the series will be held on Wednesday 18th November and is entitled ‘LGBT Rights in a Time of Pandemic’. Guests for the launch event include Lord Smith of Finsbury, the first openly gay MP and cabinet minister and Juno Roche, the writer and trans rights campaigner .The names of the guest lecturers are due to be announced shortly, and the organisers hope to hold the lectures in person once it is permitted.

One of the series’ organisers, Dr Robert Stagg, said: “We wanted to invite lecturers from fields other than academia, who can bring their expertise and experience to the students and staff of the University and the general public.

“I hope that the lecture series will highlight the range of LGBT+ achievement to all students, but particularly to students who fall within that broad coalition of identities, and that lectures will yield conversation about LGBT+ subjects that manages to be at once passionate and considered.

“It is heartening to find strong institutional support for the lecture series, which will be one of Oxford’s flagship events in the years to come. It is particularly important that the University is naming a major lecture series after one of its trans alumni, and that it is committed to giving voice to trans speakers and audience members.”

Image credit: Pxhere

Oxford records its wettest October in 145 years

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Oxford recorded its wettest October in 145 years last month, according to data collected at the Radcliffe Observatory. 185.3mm of rain was recorded, making October the wettest month since 1875, and the fourth wettest month on record since 1767.

Data on Oxford’s rain is collected by a rain gauge next to the observatory in the gardens of Green Templeton College. The gauge is read by eye every morning and is the longest, continuous, single-site precipitation data-set in the UK.

Currently, Keble College doctoral student David Crowhurst is responsible for taking readings from the gauge. In a comment to the BBC he said: “We had an intense start to the month which was driven by Storm Alex, which saw 60mm falling on one day, the 3rd. That was quite something…but we also had 27 rainy days in the month. A rainy day is when rainfall is equal to or greater than 0.2mm per day, and those 27 rainy days are a record for an October.”

With the measurements for rain so high, the levels of sunshine recorded in Oxford were well below average. Last month the Radcliffe station recorded only 70.7 hours of sunshine, which is over 30 hours below the monthly average for this time of year.  

Food habits must change to meet Paris Climate Agreement, Oxford-led study finds

According to an Oxford-led study published in the journal Science, even if the world significantly reduces its reliance on fossil fuels, it will still be unable to meet the Paris Climate Agreement goals if the global food system is not transformed as well.

What we eat, how much we eat, how much is wasted, and how food is produced need to change drastically by 2050, if we want to limit the increase in global temperatures to 1.5°C or 2°C above pre-industrial levels. 

“The good news is, there are many achievable ways rapidly to reduce food emissions if they are acted on quickly. These include both raising crop yields and reducing food loss and waste, but the most important is for individuals to shift towards predominantly plant-based diets,” said Dr Michael Clark of The Oxford Martin School and Nuffield Department of Population Health, who is the lead author on the paper.

Reducing the carbon emissions and biodiversity impact of the University’s food system is one of the nine priority areas of the University’s Environmental Sustainability Strategy. The Strategy has the ultimate goal of achieving net zero carbon by 2035 and addressing the global challenges of climate change and biodiversity loss. 

The Oxford Student Union, which has played a key role in shaping this Strategy, is also part of the Sustainability Working Group of the Conference of Colleges. They call on colleges to ensure that their practices are as sustainable as possible, while supporting Environment and Ethics reps in pushing for sustainability in food systems in their colleges through ongoing training and the sharing of best practices.

Some colleges have been taking the lead in offering plant-based food options. Based on votes from over 250 students, staff and faculty within the University, Mansfield College was voted the best college for vegetarian and vegan food. As a result, it ranked first in the 2019 Veggie Norrington Table, published by the Oxford University Animal Ethics Society. Notably, Mansfield had also come out on top in the 2016 ranking. 

According to the Bursar of Mansfield College, whose remarks are published on the Veggie Norrington Table website, “The head chef is fully trained in vegetarian cooking, having been on several specialist courses. All other chefs have then been trained to prepare vegetarian meals using the experience of the head chef.”

Students can also get involved directly in tackling the climate crisis. As part of Oxford SU’s Planet Pledge 2020, students can pledge to do one thing that contributes towards sustainable living. Ben Farmer, VP Charities and Community of Oxford SU, said: “Plant-based diets form just one part of sustainable living, and as part of Planet Pledge, students have got a fun chance to have a go at making a sustainable change that they feel comfortable with.”

Students can find more information and sign up for the Oxford SU Planet Pledge here. Staff and students can visit this website to provide feedback on the University’s draft Environmental Sustainability Strategy.

Oxford students raise over £40,000 for Movember

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Over 400 students at Oxford University have so far donated over £40,000 to the Movember campaign for men’s health. The total means that Oxford is currently the 5th highest fundraising university for the campaign and 15th overall in the UK for fundraising networks. 

Fourteen colleges have raised over £1000 and six have raised over £2,000. Lincoln College is head and shoulders above their competition having raised nearly £6000, Balliol and Brasenose are a distant second and third with £3,900 and £2,500 respectively. Then follow Wadham College and St Hilda’s with totals around the £2500 mark. The highest ranking non-college organisation is the Oxford University Rugby Football Club (OURFC) who have raised just over £2000.

Balliol’s Movember Campaign, Balliol does Movember, have created the instagram account @balliolbeards to coordinate their campaign. Fundraising milestones have been set up to motivate donors and document their mustache growth. At the £2000 milestone, which has now been surpassed, one college member promised to wax his legs. At £2,500, another said he would get frosted tips. Followers of the account have also been invited to vote for their favourite historical bearded figures, pitting Karl Marx against the Monopoly man. 

Movember is a charity initiative that takes place annually in November. Its focus is on raising money and awareness for men’s health issues from testicular cancer to suicide. People are encouraged to grow their facial hair, do challenges, or do exercise for the duration of the month in order to raise awareness and donations. 

Men’s mental health has be the subject of increasing attention in recent years. Although suicide and injury or poisoning of undetermined intent was the leading cause of death for both men and women in the UK aged between 20 and 34 last year, males had over three times the number of deaths compared to women in that age group, according to the Office for National Statistics. Prince William has championed men’s mental health causes for the past five years through campaigns such as Heads Together, aimed at challenging the stigma surrounding mental health. 

Oscar Lemmens, one of two Oxford University Movember ambassadors, is the highest individual donor at the university, having raised over £1200. He told Cherwell: “Movember this year has gone incredibly well so far! Oxford has almost 400 students participating and has raised over £25k in just a week. This is the best start to Movember that Oxford has ever had. It’s been more difficult to spread awareness because all the moustaches are in lockdown. So we’ve had to get much more creative when it comes to fundraising – buzzcuts, armpit waxing, eyebrow shaving, you name it!

“Anyone can get involved, regardless of gender or facial hair growth! We’ve seen people participate in any way they can, whether that’s getting a mullet or drawing on a moustache! At the end of the day, it’s meant to be a fun way of tackling serious issues by fundraising and spreading awareness!”

Jacob Marchbank, the other ambassador, stated: “I first got involved with Movember in 2018 when my friends organised a quiz in my college bar and I thought it was a fantastic excuse to slack off work.  After which, I successfully applied to become a Movember representative for the university. 

“Personally, I believe Movember occupies a unique and important space as not only a fundraiser for men’s health but also a vector to raise awareness and provide exposure for testicular cancer, prostate cancer and men’s mental health.”

You can donate to the university’s Movember campaign here.

Image credit: Movember Foundation / Wikimedia Commons

Boa Constrictor snakeskin found in Oxford

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A boa constrictor may be on the loose in Oxford after a snakeskin measuring over a metre and a half in length was found next to the Eastern bypass. 

The discovery was made by seven-year-old Amelia Drewett and her grandfather Alan while they were out walking. A subsequent Facebook appeal by Alan’s wife Debra has failed to identify the owner of the animal. 

She said: “I couldn’t believe my eyes when they brought it home. They thought it was just plastic in the brambles under the bridge, but they took a closer look and it was this huge snakeskin.  Nobody’s come up with a reasonable explanation for how it got there”.  

The family subsequently contacted the RSPCA and Evolution Reptiles in Kidlington, who confirmed that the skin was from a boa constrictor. Nicole Head, who works at the shop, believes the snake was deliberately abandoned.  

She said: “I can imagine someone’s let it go, as a large snake it’s pretty hard to lose. If it’s scared it’s going to be worried, but we can’t imagine it’ll cause harm”. 

As boa constrictors are non-venomous they do not require a dangerous wild animal permit, making it more difficult to identify the owner. 

This is not the first time such an incident has occurred. In 2011 another boa constrictor was found in Magdalen Woods after being abandoned. It failed to respond to treatment and later had to be put to sleep. 

Boa constrictors generally grow to between two and three metres long. They famously kill their prey by squeezing them in order to cut off their blood supply and usually eat small mammals such as rats and mice. Given that their natural habitat is Central and Southern America, experts are warning that the snake has a low likelihood of survival unless found soon.

Oxford residents took to social media to outline their own theories on the discovery. Some suggested that the skin might have been discarded as a practical joke, while others thought the idea of a loose snake might encourage greater compliance with lockdown measures.  

The snakeskin is now on display in Alan and Debra’s house about 100 metres from where it was discovered.  

Colin Stevenson, head of education at Crocodiles of the World in West Oxfordshire reiterated that the snake posed a limited threat to the community. He said: “It’s not going to eat your cat. You wouldn’t want it to bite you, but it would only give you a nasty wound”.

Image Credit: Debra Drewett.

Extinction Rebellion accuses HSBC of “climate colonialism” in spoof advertisements

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Extinction Rebellion have put up billboards in bus stops, spoofing HSBC ads, alleging the bank is conducting “climate colonialism”.

The organisation accuses HSBC of “bankrolling significant human rights abuses through their fossil fuel investments”. The group says that this is part of a UK-wide week of action, with activists in over 10 UK cities taking similar actions (including Sheffield, Leeds, Birmingham and Glasgow).

One spoof ad says, with an HSBC logo on fire behind: “We are climate crisis. Drilling oil, fracking gas, mining coal. We’re still funding the lot.”

The activists claim HSBC is investing in a Liquid National Gas project in Mozambique. At the 2020 HSBC AGM, local NGO, “JA!/ Friends of the Earth Mozambique” told the board, “The development of HSBC-funded LNG gas project has caused mass human rights violations in Mozambique, forced removals of hundreds of families from their homes, and the loss of livelihood for farmers and fishermen who have been deprived of their land and access to the sea.”

In October, HSBC announced an “ambitious plan to prioritise financing and investment that supports the transition to a net zero global economy”, pledging to cut to net zero financed emissions from their portfolio of customers by 2050 at the latest.

Group Chief Executive Noel Quinn said, “Our net zero ambition represents a material step up in our support for customers as we collectively work towards building a thriving low-carbon economy.”

April Jones, from Extinction Rebellion Oxford, said, “It’s important that people understand that HSBC may call itself the world’s local bank, but its actions are actually endangering the world, especially people in some of the poorest parts of it.”  

The group worked alongside “Brandalism” activists. Tona Merriman from Brandalism, said: “HSBC likes to position itself as a friendly high street bank through its marketing, but these artworks tell a much darker tale of human rights abuse facilitated by the bank’s activities.”

Extinction Rebellion is an environmental campaign group, which calls itself a “non-violent civil disobedience activist movement”.

In January this year, Extinction Rebellion activists protested outside Oxford’s Examination Schools against the Oxford Farming Conference

Cherwell have contacted HSBC’s Oxford branch for comment.

In Conversation with Grace Beverley

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Grace Beverley is possibly one of the busiest people I’ve ever met. The day of our interview, she posted a photo of the day’s schedule, and I was wedged in amongst almost non-stop meetings. It’s not hard to see why her schedule is so packed. Currently, she holds the CEO and Founder role of two companies: TALA, a sustainable fitness-wear brand, and Shreddy, a fitness app and equipment brand. This means that her main day-to-day job is making executive, top-level decisions. 

“It’s quite a traditional CEO role while having the untraditional, unorthodox version of being CEO of two companies.” She sees her main role, however, as being an entrepreneur; “That is what I spend 90% of my time doing.” Both companies have seen enormous success, and a report in Forbes earlier this year suggested that TALA has already generated a turnover of over £5.2 million (and counting). Only a year after graduating, she’d already made it onto the Forbes 30 under 30 list for Retail and Ecommerce. 

Given that she started her two businesses while still studying for her degree at Oxford, she’s clearly no stranger to time-management, which features heavily in her new book, scheduled to come out next year: “The book is aiming to provide a productivity blueprint for the next generation.” 

Still, it aims to go beyond just self-help. Burnout has become a debated topic of conversation over the last few years, and last year, Anne Petersen’s essay for Buzzfeed, “How Millennials Became the Burnout Generation” went viral. In it, Petersen describes the experience of internalizing “the idea that I should be working all the time,” an experience that she categorises as a distinctly generational one. 

While Beverley falls just on the edge of being a Millenial, her new book takes on some of the ideas that Petersen mentions in her essay. “The book was inspired by two different ideas of our generation as both the snowflake generation and the burn-out generation. So from one side we’re seen as, we like to cut corners, we don’t want to be in a corporation for 40 years before we live the life that we desire. But then on the other side, we’re this burn-out generation because we monetise everything we do, and every free hour is kind of a side hustle; we’re always working.”

“How we can be seen as two different things, and how we can identify with two different things at the same time when the idea of success is not necessarily changing that much with the times, even if we think it is, and it’s leaving us feeling lost.” Throughout her new book, Beverley wants to tackle these contradictions.

If anyone’s qualified to talk about this, I think Grace Beverley might be. Writing a book alongside holding a CEO role in two fairly new companies is certainly no easy feat. When I asked her how she managed it, she gave me quite a simple answer: “I plan to the minute, is life at the moment.” “I find that planning is one of the biggest benefits of even just stress relieving, and being able to even see yourself being able to complete what you want to complete.”

She also credits the support of her teams, who appear like a close-knit family in the occasional Instagram posts they feature in. Scaling up has been essential to managing the load, and while the businesses’ teams are still small, they’re growing at a fast rate. 

Although her achievements so far are monumental, that doesn’t mean that Beverley hasn’t struggled with self-doubt. “I think that one of the most important things is knocking down your own self-doubt first and working out if that’s bleeding through into what you think other people’s perceptions of you are.”

“What I realised after a while […] was that actually the most overarching kind of challenge, and obstacle for that [being taken seriously] was actually with myself. And I was very much creating this feeling for myself because I was so preoccupied with that.” 

“I find that the best way to combat these things is just to do. You can doubt yourself, or think that people think something of you all you want, or you can just get on with the work, and kind of let the success of it speak for itself.” 

One focus that has been key to Beverley has been hiring women, and creating safe spaces for them to develop professionally. She highlighted funding as a key issue for women in entrepreneurship: a study by Beauhurst suggested that in 2018, only 16% of equity deals went to female-founded companies, and the Alison Rose Review of Female Entrepreneurship noted that only 13% of senior people in investment teams are women. Despite this, she also thinks that entrepreneurship creates opportunities for women in business that traditional roles may not, such as the ability to forge your own path.  

In spite of the difficulties that face many female founders, Beverley remains insistently positive. I was curious to learn more about the challenges that having a significant online presence alongside her businesses may have posed, but for Beverley, this is a source of opportunity more than anything else. 

“I think if I were to say it’s made my current job harder, I would be very much looking at the negatives, considering I’ve also been able to lead on a huge amount of pre-existing audience spaces with potential customers.” She also pointed out that despite the challenges of being a female founder, “I’m also an Oxford-educated white woman, so I’m going to have huge privileges elsewhere.”

While her businesses may have sprung from her previous status as an influencer, Beverley has taken a notable step back from her social channels and Youtube over the last year, moving to the occasional Instagram post, with a heavier focus on entrepreneurship than previously.

“I realised that actually I didn’t have any place in my life that I wanted to be highly publicised. And I kind of just wanted to focus on growing the companies, and that being my job, and that is my job.”

“I think what’s interesting is that in any other job you’d be able to change your job, and there’s very little ‘oh, you owe it to this to stay,’ whereas with social media that can be slightly imposed based on how much people supported you.” 

To Beverley, stepping back from social media is nothing more than a career change. “We are not even necessarily used to influencer culture yet, and so of course we are going to perceive it differently when it comes to people reinventing themselves in any way.” 

She also credits stepping back from social media to other positive changes, including being more sustainable in her personal life. “There’s this idea that this militant sustainability is the way forward, which actually creates a huge barrier for entry and gatekeeping for people who want to be a bit more sustainable. So I think for everyone, it should very much just be about making sustainable choices, especially in areas that you can maintain.” 

Being offline, she says, has taken the focus away from living up to these standards, and instead she’s able to focus on her own decision-making: “How can I make the best decision here? If there’s a trade-off, how do I make that work?”

Sustainability is also at the heart of Beverley’s businesses. Most of the products produced by TALA focus on up-cycling fabrics that would otherwise go to waste, their Zinnia leggings, for example, are produced with 92% up-cycled Polyamide, and purport to “save over 40 litres of water and 2kg of CO2 compared to non up-cycled Polyamide.” The brand is admirably transparent, and in a video released last year, Beverley even took her followers into one of the factories that they use. 

She emphasised, however, the complexity of this sustainable approach. “Sustainability isn’t just about, for example, recycled clothing; it’s about everything, from how you dye fabrics, to how you ship things over, there are so many different aspects of it. And I think that it is really, really important for the consumer to be aware of that.” Some fabrics, such as elastane, can only be recycled a certain number of times, so each decision that Beverley and her team make involves weighing up the balance between sustainability and maintaining the quality of the garment. 

On the other hand, an online product such as the Shreddy app doesn’t have any direct sustainability implications. Launched in 2019, Beverley told me that both of her businesses have seen steady growth through the pandemic, which she partially credits to their online-only, direct-to-consumer model. 

This model has seen enormous growth over the last year, with one study suggesting that sales for D2C businesses in the US has seen a 24.3% increase from 2019 to 2020, likely in part due to the closure of physical shops, as well as the ease of online shopping.

This doesn’t mean that the pandemic hasn’t impacted Beverley’s two businesses. The sampling process for new products had to be pushed back for several months, as it requires high levels of international collaboration, which means that many of the TALA collections coming out over the next few months have been delayed from earlier in the year. 

Now, one of Beverley’s biggest priorities is working on crisis management to prepare for the future. “It’s quite interesting going into what might be seen as a second wave to look at how we change, how we act [in comparison to] the first time.” 

“Whether you’re making more money or not, crisis management is always going to take up a huge amount more time. So I feel particularly kind of heartbroken for the companies that are probably working above their heads.”

Still, it seems that Beverley’s companies are continuing to evolve, despite all the challenges they face. In the weeks after our interview, it was announced that she was merging two of her companies, rebranding her fitness equipment company B_ND to fall under the umbrella of Shreddy. In an Instagram post, she told her followers that “rebranding the rest of the business & reframing towards a tech-forward business model made sense.” It doesn’t seem like much is capable of stopping Grace Beverley from continuing to push forwards.

Slight drop in University COVID-19 cases to 126

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Oxford University’s testing service has confirmed 126 cases of COVID-19 among students and staff for the week 7th-13th November, with a positivity rate of 30%. This marks a slight drop in the number of new cases compared to last week’s 146, as well as in the test positivity rate compared to last week’s 34%.

Following a three-week period in which case numbers increased almost linearly (with about 200 new cases among students and staff per week), last week marked the first drop in the number of new cases reported. The numbers this week closely mirrored last week, indicating a substantial drop in the number of new cases per week. However, the number of tests conducted per week has fallen by about 50% since the week starting on October 17th and the high positivity rate of tests could be evidence for a significant number of unreported cases.

Current University guidance is that students and staff should not get tested unless they have been asked to or they display symptoms of COVID-19. The University’s white paper states that “one of the challenges the University faces is staff and students with no COVID-19 symptoms asking for tests unnecessarily”. The University of Cambridge, whose collegiate system mirrors that of Oxford, have set up a testing pod in the city for symptomatic cases, but have recently announced they will test all asymptomatic students in colleges.

The University’s Status and Response website also states that the figures released do not include positive test results received outside of the University testing service. It notes further that “due to the time interval between a test being done and the result becoming available, it is expected that there will be a mismatch between actual results and those confirmed to us on any given day”.

Image credit: Oxford University Status and Response website (https://www.ox.ac.uk/coronavirus/status)

This week, the University released a detailed breakdown of the past eight weeks for the first time. Daily numbers of positive tests are given and the data is split into results for students and University staff. The positive cases among students for the vast majority of positive tests, with a total of only 35 staff members having tested positive so far. The total number of positive cases within the University as of November 13th is 980.

The University has implemented a four-stage emergency response, depending on how wide the spread of Covid-19 is. The current status is Stage 2, which allows the University to operate “in line with social distancing restrictions with as full a student cohort as possible on site”, with teaching and assessment taking place “with the optimum combination of in-person teaching and online learning”. A Stage 3 response would imply “no public access to the University or College buildings” and “gatherings for staff and students only permitted where essential for teaching and assessment to take place”.