Tuesday, April 29, 2025
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Cherwell’s Declassified Oxford Clubbing Fashion Guide

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A knitted turtleneck and mum jeans. 

This is an outfit for running errands; these are items of clothing you grab from your floor on a crisp winter’s morning before running to a lecture; however, this is not acceptable club attire.

I will never quite forget my first night of Freshers Week. We were all kindred spirits in these moments: nervously getting ready in your new dorm, agonising over the perfect balance of ‘smart casual’, wondering whether there is an absolute Truth and Beauty to be found in the perfect ‘nice top and jeans’ combination. PT’s was the motive and expectations were already set low; but everything changed when we first arrived and I saw a girl wearing a knitted turtleneck and mum jeans, attempting to mosh to ABBA before 11pm. 

Oxford, this is not okay. Some of the brightest and best minds of our generation may be enrolled here, but you are not exempt from the all-seeing and scrutinising gaze of the fashion world. Anna Wintour rests comfortably atop the western cultural hierarchy like a chic Doctor T. J. Eckleburg in vintage Chanel sunglasses.

On the other hand, who can blame you? Perhaps you aren’t even aware of the faux pas you are committing. So, to lend a helping hand, I have drawn up this handy-dandy guide to what you should and shouldn’t be wearing to each of Oxford’s favourite clubs:

Park End

So, you’ve come to Park End. You are either fresh from a crew date or you unashamedly love cheese, chart music and VKs; your fashion reflects this. Lads are in their finest soiled white shirts (sport-specific paraphernalia optional) or North Face tees, the fabric clings to your bodies in anticipation of the sweat and drink stains that await. Girls, you’ve thrown on your favourite Topshop Joni Jeans because they’re comfortable and reliable and you’ve worn them for the last six years straight, so why would you stop now? Literally any vest/halter/racerback crop top or Fruit of the Loom t-shirt will prove to be a winning combo. 

Plush

As the only designated LGBTQ+ club in Oxford, Plush is a breeding ground for all kinds of mayhem, fashion included. Not one person will be suitably dressed for any event: mesh tops and bra-lets worn under parkas and blazers, glitter and face paint with button down shirts. 

There is no set uniform for Plush, simply due to the plurality of persons that climb (or gracefully descend) its treacherous stairs and haunt its sweat-filled coves; however, most outfits will be an iteration of each’s ‘pulling outfit’ with a touch of conservatism. Bonus points are given to those untamable bacchanalians that turn up to the club in the same outfit they’ve worn all day, but chuck on a choker or anything with mesh; y’all are truly wild.

Bridge

Bridge is the domain of Oxford’s fashion elite (when there are no events on at the Bully or O2). Students throng to its hallowed queue in their biggest baggy trousers, layers upon layers of chains and oversized t-shirts on top of oversized t-shirts. To fit into the crowd your trainers should be near death, the only acceptable jacket style is puffer – North Face preferable – and your hair should be centre parted: this is a rule strictly enforced on the door for all, so beware those with cow licks and non-standard partings/styles: you have been warned. 

Fever

Anything. You could be wearing literally anything. You’ve just had a bop, a formal, you’ve just left the library. Fever is the domain of the bottom of the laundry basket: that top that you brought with you ‘just in case’, that t-shirt with the small stain you hope no one notices. Everything and nothing can fly in the velvet-covered walls of this place. The best style advice possible is wear a face-shielding hat.. and no Superdry. 

Mansfield principal calls for 90% state-educated intake

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The principal of Mansfield College, Helen Mountfield QC, called for Oxford University to take up to 90% of its students from state schools, in an interview with The Sunday Times last weekend.

Mountfield, who was educated at a comprehensive school, said: “I would like to see [the proportion of students] to be broadly representative of the society from which people come. That would be about 90%”

Denying that the policy of taking more state school applicants amounted to social engineering, Mountfield said: “What you’re trying to do is recognise some of the patterns of advantage of society and … find potential by trying to set those aside.”

She recalled a previous conversation with a judge, regarding positive discrimination for female lawyers wanting to join the bench, during her time as a QC.

“He said ‘You know, I think it would be dreadful for women. They would feel they were only there because they were women.’ And I said to him, ‘Does it undermine your self-confidence that you’re a white man? Do you ever think, maybe I’m only a judge because I’m a white man and if I was a woman I wouldn’t be here?’”

Mansfield leads the way in Oxford colleges in terms of state school admissions at 90% for this year. A quarter of students accepted are the first in their family to go to university.

Mountfield said the number of Mansfield students achieving first-class and 2:1 degrees increased after more state school educated students were admitted. Previous to this, Mansfield had been “at the bottom” of the Norrington Table.

“We have consistently gone up and this year we are fifth. It shows that we are … not saying let’s let in some poor kids as a charity case … but identifying cleverer people because we are looking more broadly at who might benefit from being here.”

Mountfield went on to say that admissions tutors take whether a teenager is from a poor area and if they are the first in their family to go to university into consideration during the application process.

“It might be the person with sparky ideas [of whom] you think ‘I can teach you to write like a dream. But what I can’t teach you is ideas.’ So we’re just trying to find the people who might be slightly fumbling for it, who haven’t been taken to the theatre all through childhood, or seen people reading broadsheet newspapers.”

Mountfield’s expression of support follows the announcement that the University made more than 69% of its undergraduate offers this year to students attending state schools, an increase of 4.6% on the previous year and a record high.

Dr Samina Khan, Director of Undergraduate Admissions and Outreach at Oxford, said at the time: “We know that students from some backgrounds are not as well-represented at Oxford as they should be, and we are determined that this should change.

“Having taught in state schools during my career, I know the wealth of talent that lies there. We wish the students every success in their studies, and hope they flourish at Oxford.”

Mountfield’s statement comes in the face of criticism from some University figures.

A source high up in University admissions told The Sunday Telegraph last month: “The instructions we received were that we had to interview them as long as they met very basic standards – and some even failed those.

“My experience is that those candidates just don’t do very well. We call them to interview because we have to. They just do really badly and we reject them and it’s a waste of everyone’s time. But if this target of 25% is going to be met, we will have to start admitting some of these people.”

The 2020 Oscars: Fashion with a Voice

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The 2020 Oscars was a night in which history was made, with Parasite being the first foreign-language film to win Best Picture, and the animated short Hair Love proving that a celebration of natural hair can be worthy of critical acclaim. Janelle Monáe shouted out to artists of colour in her opening song; Joaquin Phoenix advocated the need for compassion in a moving acceptance speech; Billie Eilish gave a haunting rendition of The Beatles’ ‘Yesterday’ for the ‘In Memoriam’ segment. It was a night of firsts, the usual dose of political statements, and a new conception of what kind of film can win Best Picture.

On the fashion front, however, it wasn’t quite so revolutionary. Many of those in attendance seemed to be playing it safe, wearing looks that in no way reflected the best of recent haute couture collections or indeed said anything significant at all. Other awards shows this season saw celebrities taking risks with their looks, such as Lily-Rose Depp’s entirely-lace catsuit layered with a sheer camisole dress at the BAFTAs, or Zendaya’s Tom Ford breastplate in hot pink at the Critics’ Choice Awards, two interesting, innovative takes on red-carpet fashion. Being the most high-profile award show of the season, it wouldn’t be amiss to expect the pinnacle of glamour and wow-factor from the Oscars red carpet, but the looks this year largely failed to impress. Even those who did try to make a statement with their clothes, such as Natalie Portman and her cape with the names of female directors snubbed for awards embroidered in the side, didn’t achieve the desired effect – Portman’s look was labelled ‘deeply offensive’ by prominent activist Rose McGowan, something that has certainly problematized the look whether or not the criticisms are fair.

Fashion’s ability to speak is not something we should think of as surprising or in any way “new”. Clothes have been used to denote power, express individuality, and influence societal values since the dawn of time. For celebrities, fashion is another way to communicate with the public and give us a little something of themselves that we might not otherwise get from their creative work. Ariana Grande’s Giambattista Valli grey tulle dress at the Grammys last month, for example, demonstrated an ability to engage with haute couture fashion and play with recent trends, and the amount of media coverage it received was telling of its resonance with the public. Stars such as Gwendoline Christie and Billy Porter, who are known to be experimental on the red carpet and take their looks seriously, gain positive coverage for it and give us something memorable to associate them with. And while that may not be the main objective of awards shows in general, it can’t be said that it’s of no importance.

So this year, the stars who really stood out on that front were those who did something a bit different, or showed themselves to be using fashion to make the public think. One of the ways this was achieved was by “upcycling” clothes – re-wearing old outfits instead of contributing to environmental waste and debuting an entirely new design. Jane Fonda, who was arrested five times last year for protesting against climate change as part of her “fire-drill Fridays”, re-wore her dress from the 2014 Cannes red carpet. Elizabeth Banks dug back even further into her wardrobe, wearing a dress she’d first worn at the Vanity Fair Oscars after-party in 2004. In an Instagram post, she wrote: ‘it’s gorgeous and it fits … so why not wear it again!?’

While from a fashion perspective the looks as a whole may have been slightly disappointing, seeing celebrities advocate causes they’re passionate about in the form of their clothes is undoubtedly interesting and meaningful. Stars such as Kaitlyn Dever and Léa Seydoux wore dresses by Louis Vuitton in collaboration with the Red Carpet Green Dress organization, whose mission it is to get designers to create 100% sustainable looks. Saoirse Ronan’s Gucci dress was an innovative take on “upcycling”, with her black satin bodice being made of excess fabric from her gown at the BAFTAs earlier this month. Margot Robbie’s navy Chanel dress was entirely vintage, having come from the brand’s 1994 haute couture collection. And Olivia Colman, winner of last year’s Best Actress award, wore a dress crafted from a sustainable velvet by famously eco-friendly brand Stella McCartney.

The fashion industry may have a lot more work to do in facing up to its contribution towards environmental pollution, but stars using their platform to raise awareness of the issue is a great step in the right direction, and more of them should be doing it. The overall trends we can spot at high-profile events like the Oscars tell us a lot about the directions we’re moving in as a society, and the more in-tune celebrities are with what the world needs, the better.

The Pitfalls of Sale Season Shopping

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The end of a season is always a slightly odd time. A season in terms of the annual fashion cycle, that is. Spring might seem an awfully long way off for us at the moment, but the fashion world did Spring 2020 long ago. It’s a distant memory. Right now, the Autumn/Winter 2020 fashion weeks are well underway and we’ve already had a glimpse into the looks which will be unavoidable in nine months’ time. Yet at the same time retailers are desperately trying to flog the last of their stock from this season past, which we in turn first saw over a year ago. The seasonal collection system can risk making clothes feel remarkably old absurdly quickly, but then that’s also a marker of its success, at least from a commercial point of view.

So how, then, do the Net-a-Porter’s and Liberty’s of the world go about getting rid of these clothes that everyone already decided they didn’t want over a year ago? With SALES of course! Ever since Boxing Day we’ve been in the throes of the gradually escalating biannual sale frenzy, and it’s only just reaching its climax now. Things start off moderately: a 25% off here, a third off there. Not enough to convince someone who wasn’t already interested in an item, though. The beginnings of the sale period are for those who’ve been lusting after items that they can’t quite justify to themselves, but which were never truly out of the question. There’s no harm in that. To pay for 75% of the retail price of a garment is to recognise and appreciate its full value but to be unable to actually stump up the funds for it. And indeed, in many cases that retail price will have been so ludicrously expensive as to alienate all but a very select few buyers. For the majority of those who follow fashion, buying at any time other than in the sales is simply out of the question.

But it’s at this point in the season, when the winter coats on sale will probably see no more than a month’s wear (if we’re being optimistic about the weather) before being stowed away until October, that the discounts can get a bit silly. Lots of high-end retailers now have sales reaching up to 80% off. Eighty percent! Reductions like that can’t help but alter the attitude of the consumer. To pay for 20% of what a garment is supposedly worth is to view it in an entirely different light to the person who pays full price, or even 75%. No one who has spotted a piece they really desire will sit in wait for it to drop in price by that much before buying; if they would, then they were probably never interested in actually acquiring it in the first place.

Sure, luck might have it that an item you liked the look of but could never even consider buying might happen to be reduced by so much that it then became a feasible purchase, but that would be a chance event, a fluke resulting from your liking an item few others did. The overwhelming majority of people who buy something at 20% or 25% of its original price did not originally intend to buy it.

Enormous discounts risk devaluing a garment. They obscure the hours of work and preparation that went into it and the originality of its design, reducing the decision to purchase it to one based on momentary impulse. Of course, some clothes are simply not worth what they are retailed for, and their price does not accurately reflect the process of their manufacturing. These will inevitably go on sale, and in such cases the changes in the market will reflect their real value. But for many of the clothes sitting at 75% off the reason for that will be that not enough people liked them in the first place. The people who are tempted to buy by the magnitude of a discount do so more often than not because they view it as ‘taking a punt’. Huge reductions encourage the consumer to think ‘why not?’, to buy because they might as well or because they feel like they’re getting a good deal rather than because they really value whatever it is that they’re buying. Buying something you didn’t intend to because it’s on sale is not you getting a good deal, it’s you spending money on something you’re not actually sure you want.

It’s a damaging mindset: for the consumers themselves, who end up paying for things they might not actually want; for the designers and manufacturers, whose creations are devalued and whose efforts and artistry are cheapened along with the price; and for the planet, which suffers from every step of the process that goes into the making and the transportation of clothes which people don’t particularly want and certainly don’t need.

Of course, it’s impossible for designers and professional buyers to predict exactly which pieces will sell and which won’t. There will always be a surplus of items which can’t be shifted at full price or even with moderate discounts. In fact, a total aversion to allowing things to go on sale can be just as problematic an attitude; it’s just that outlook which meant that Burberry preferred to burn £28.6m worth of unsold clothes in 2017 rather than to allow them to sit on the rack for a reduced price and damage their brand image in doing so.

High-end sales are a good thing in that they make luxury fashion more accessible and more democratic. A preoccupation with exclusivity and with maintaining resource scarcity only alienates people. But this accessibility should manifest itself in people getting the chance to have things they really value but couldn’t otherwise afford, not in their buying on a whim, which does nothing but reinforce our already prevalent perception of clothes as largely disposable and of retail consumption as frivolous. Sales are and always will be an essential part of retail, but discount purchases are only justifiable if they’re for the right reasons. They should be an opportunity to buy things you already wanted but couldn’t before, yet they are all too often the playground of impulse.

This is why sales at the lower end of the fashion spectrum are the most troublesome of all. The fact is that almost any full-price item in a high-street shop or online fast fashion retailer is affordable, if not immediately then after a small period of saving. And anyway, we should have to save for our clothes or at least think hard before buying them if we are to truly value them in any sense. Paying £5 for a shirt that has a retail value of £20 is most likely not a result of its suddenly having become a feasible purchase, but of it having gone from a price you’d have to think twice about to one that can be viewed as risk-free. It’s wanton consumerism, and in the fast fashion model the collections are weekly, not biannual. The sales are constant, not something to look forward to. The clothes are disposable, not treasured. They’re so cheap that you’re tricked into feeling like you’d be losing money not buying them. The seasons might move fast in the world of runway fashion, but at least there are seasons.

If music be the food of love, prey on

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There are two types of Korean faces that generally appear in the Western media. One is thin, chiselled, and attached to a K-pop star; the other is chubby, hostile, and spilling over the top of a DPRK uniform.

  And then there is Bong Joon Ho. Parasite’s sensational run at the Oscars saturated news and social media alike, thanks in part to Bong’s exceptionally meme-able decision to make his newly acquired statuettes kiss. The unbridled wholesomeness of the director- goggling up at Quentin Tarantino with wire rims a-gleam and phone camera in hand— belies the tone of his work. In the words of The Guardian, Parasite satirises the forces of “status envy, aspiration, materialism, and the patriarchal family unit”. These forces, portrayed so cynically in Bong’s film, are equally present in another Korean mass cultural export: K-pop. 

The so-called ‘Korean wave’, or hallyu, saw South Korean culture explode across the globe in the 21st century; a 2014 article in The Economist dubbed Korean pop culture “Asia’s foremost trendsetter”, partly due to its use as a government soft-power tool. Like many of the country’s post-war creations, however, K-pop reflects the highly corporate nature of South Korean society. In 2011, music mogul Lee Soo-man gave a speech at the Stanford Graduate School of Business, explaining the ‘cultural technology’ concept with which he changed Korea forever. Some 20 years previously, Lee had created a K-pop export manual, specifying everything from chords and eye shadow colours suited to particular countries, to the camera angles for music videos (a 360° opening shot followed by a montage of closeups). Lee’s company, SM Entertainment, also developed the ‘Four Core Stages’ model, which continues to dominate the industry- and which may be viewed as an expression of the same forces satirised in Parasite. 

The Four Stages- casting, training, producing, and managing- are designed to maximise the efficiency and profit of the K-pop product. While this model brought Korean culture to international prominence, it also drew criticism for its heavy human cost. Aspiring idols as young as 12 or 13 are vulnerable to ‘slave contracts’- a form of indentured servitude with the agency that trains them, a process which can take up to a decade. Many groups take years to pay off their ‘trainee debt’, which covers the cost of singing and dance lessons, PR, plastic surgery, and more; despite the apparently luxurious celebrity lifestyle, performers may not actually receive royalties until they have repaid these expenses. Even after debuting, idols often continue to live in dormitories, where agencies control their diets, wardrobes, and social lives. The ‘Big 3’ companies, including SM Entertainment, are a notable exception, paying trainees as soon as they debut, but even their stars are not safe from the immense pressure of the industry. 

In late 2019, a few months after Parasite’s Cannes debut, South Korea received international media attention for the suicide of two beloved female K-pop stars in as many months. Choi Jin-Ri, a former member of girl group f(x), and Goo Hara, formerly of Kara, died within six weeks of each other after complaining of misogynistic cyberbullying. Idols are expected to walk the line between sexuality and schoolgirl innocence, embodying a highly manufactured, unimpeachable perfection which requires extreme dieting and cosmetic surgery. While idols’ public love lives must be squeaky clean, the industry has also been rocked by sexual coercion scandals.

The extreme commodification of K-pop can also take a toll on performers’ feelings of authenticity. The creative process is usually outsourced to the same Scandinavian songwriters responsible for Taylor Swift and Katy Perry hits; one Korean girl band’s EP was entirely produced by Skrillex. This vision of ‘Korean culture’ is largely a reflection of Western appetites, with the additional selling point of exoticism. In this sense, K-pop offers a fantasy vision of Korean culture, and especially Korean womanhood, engineered for maximum profit and efficiency. This representation- which invokes age-old orientalist tropes of sensuality and submissiveness- finds a counterpart to its inauthenticity in the opposing North Korean stereotype, depicted as recently as 2014’s The Interview.

Recalling his surprise at Parasite’s international success, Bong commented: “The film was just full of Korean details and Korean nuances. But (the responses were the same across the world). I think maybe there is no borderline between countries now because we all live in the same country- it’s called capitalism.” Parasite was both authentically Korean and universally relatable in its criticism of consumerism, class discrimination, and human greed. Rather than seeking to appeal to these forces, perhaps the K-pop industry could draw some inspiration from Bong’s success- using its platform to support more authentically Korean creativity in response to breakneck social change, within the country and across the world. 

Literary Blackface

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When the largest book retailer in the United States, Barnes & Noble, launched their so-called Diverse Editions initiative in honour of Black History Month, they probably didn’t guess that backlash to the move would be so widespread and immediate they would end up shelving the campaign a day later. The initiative essentially professed to champion diversity by relaunching several classic novels with covers depicting characters of colour as the protagonists and was lambasted by prominent African American writers such as Roxane Gay and Angie Thomas. And ultimately, it isn’t hard to see why. 

The process of churning out an array of several novels, all in the public domain and almost all entirely by white authors with new covers slapped on seems laughably lacking in effort, given that classics are routinely reprinted and repackaged anyway. Whilst Barnes & Noble clarified that all the illustrators hired to design the new covers were themselves people of colour and from diverse backgrounds, the overall effect was at best shallow and at worst perhaps even more blatantly offensive than the absence of a character of colour altogether. It was, in particular, hard to see what exactly the depiction of Frankenstein’s monster as black was supposed to contribute towards the empowerment and representation of black people. The updated cover of The Wizard of Oz, of which several versions were printed showing Dorothy as black, Asian, and Indigenous respectively, swapped out the ruby slippers for a pair of red trainers in a move so facetious and clearly informed by two-dimensional stereotypes it was almost comical. 

However, perhaps the most egregious fault of the campaign lay not in the covers themselves but in the accompanying statement by Barnes & Noble, who preened that “for the first time ever, all parents will be able to pick up a book and see themselves in a story.” The classics that had been reprinted in question have all received their “classic” status from the dominance of a Western canon that has been defined by whiteness for as long as it has existed. In pretending that slapping a new set of covers on them is enough to override the context and content of these novels, and is enough to offer any substantive representation without in any way changing the stories themselves, Barnes & Noble proved their staggering lack of knowledge on representation, diversity, and the history of the erasure and marginalisation of black people and other people of colour in general. One of the classics reprinted is Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The Secret Garden, whose protagonist is the daughter of British colonists in India. To pretend that a single illustration can suddenly allow people of colour, many of whom are from backgrounds and families that are directly affected by colonialism, to suddenly feel seen by these kinds of stories is patronising and frankly offensive. 

The fact is that, whilst their misstep was a particularly public one, Barnes & Noble is only one representative facet of a publishing industry that is largely still tragically far behind where it needs to be in addressing longstanding lack of diversity and representation. The Diverse Editions fiasco comes after all hot on the heels of the publication of Jeanine Cummins’ controversial novel American Dirt, in which Cummins, a white American, writes the story of an undocumented Mexican immigrant. It should come as no surprise that Latino critics have commented that the novel strikes as stereotypical and woefully out of touch with its subjects, to say nothing of Cummins’ flaunting of barbed wire-themed centrepieces and manicures as she promoted the novel. It is all part of an overarching trend of performative diversity, a readiness to treat Black History Month and genuine political issues as little more than glorified marketing campaigns that can be capitalised upon to make a quick profit. After all, none of these efforts does anything to actually elevate or promote the voices of black writers and creatives of colour. Author Frederick Joseph slammed the Diverse Editions as “literary blackface”. The origins of Blackface stem from Jim Crow-era minstrel shows, in which white performers would don black makeup and perform racist caricatures for the entertainment of other white people; there is an insidious echo of this history, therefore, underpinning modern publishing and its tendency to pedal diversity by elevating only the same white voices that have always been given a platform, allowing them to misrepresent and capitalise upon the minorities whose stories they steal and puppeteer them for their own gain.

It’s not that reframing British and American classics to tell stories explicitly about people of colour can’t be done — but it is a process that requires recontextualising the content of the novel itself, not just its cover, and it is a process that can only be carried out effectively by people of colour. Ibi Zoboi’s excellent 2018 Young Adult novel Pride retells the story of Pride and Prejudice in a contemporary Afro-Latino neighbourhood in New York City, exploring themes of gentrification, colourism, and classism from the point of view of its Haitian-Dominican protagonist and Elizabeth Bennet reincarnation, Zuri Benitez. An Orchestra of Minorities, the 2019 novel by Nigerian author Chigozie Obioma, spins Homer’s Odyssey into a modern love story about a Nigerian couple. Both novels are unique in their ability to draw out aspects of their source material that are uniquely resonant to communities of colour and infuse them with culturally relevant commentary and characters. They are testimonies to the kinds of stories that can be produced when black authors are allowed to tell their own stories for themselves, and it is these kinds of stories that ought to be promoted and supported if one is serious about the promotion of diversity in any real sense. 

Each of the classics that Barnes & Noble was so eager to reprint, confident in its popularity, has maintained a place in cultural esteem because beyond simple intrinsic quality, it has been granted exposure and promotion for years and years, hailed as important, put in classrooms and children’s bookshelves and on “must-read lists”. None of these things are luxuries that have ever been extended to black writers or indeed any writers of colour with anything like the same strength and consistency. Even now, schools are much more likely to tout To Kill a Mockingbird by the white author Harper Lee as the definitive work of fiction dealing with racism than they are to promote Ralph Ellison’s Invisible Man or Toni Morrison’s Beloved with the same conviction. 

Beyond classics and in the realms of genre fiction, it is even harder to garner recognition – if the African-American writer of speculative fiction Octavia E. Butler is still astonishingly underexposed next to the likes of Isaac Asimov or Michael Crichton, it only serves to show how much harder it is for new diverse voices to break out and be heard. In order for the publishing industry to address diversity seriously and with more effort than the kind put into flippant tokenism, it is precisely these kinds of voices it must actively work to seek out, encourage, and uplift. Fostering diversity is about engendering a genuine systemic and cultural shift, not a performative checklist to be touted around one month a year. Publishers and retailers alike have to make a concerted effort to seriously diversify the pool of creators they are promoting, not just how their creators are being promoted. Let this shift happen, and maybe then we can talk about covers.

Review: ‘The Slow Rush’, Tame Impala

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At last, after a five-year wait, we’ve finally got a new album from Tame Impala. The Australian one-man band have just released their fourth album, The Slow Rush, and much like their three prior albums, it’s a powerful mix of dreamy synthpop and existential lyricism. Each individual track provides what we’ve come to expect from Tame Impala: echoing vocals, warped guitar riffs, groovy bass lines, and psychedelic disco beats. But taken as a whole, The Slow Rush packs an emotional punch unlike any prior Tame Impala album. Building within each track is a pervasive feeling that we’re running out of time. One quick look at the track titles makes Kevin Parker’s headspace for the album abundantly clear, with an opening track titled ‘One More Year,’ and a concluding track titled ‘One More Hour.’ The Slow Rush takes listeners on a journey through Parker’s own processing of the temporary nature of our lives as he works through regret, hope, and nostalgia. This emotional voyage is wrapped up in a tightly polished — and, surprisingly enough, often upbeat — album.

Kicking off The Slow Rush is ‘One More Year,’ which draws listeners in with melting vocals and pulsing beats. In the chorus, as a vast synth soundscape swells beneath him, Parker sings, “I never wanted any other way to spend our lives/I know we promised we’d be doing this ’til we die.” Then the foundation drops out from under him, the beat hollows out, and Parker states the thought which threads together the whole album: “And now I fear we might.” His tone is not lamenting, not overly-indulgent; Parker expertly places this frightening thought (that we might, one day, die) in a sea of calm. He continues, “But it’s okay/I think there’s a way,” and his voice momentarily shifts into a breathy, reassuring tone. A bongo and an almost-cliché disco piano sequence enter as Parker attempts to rationalize and stay positive despite his realization.

After accepting the inevitability of time running out, Parker reacts as any of us might: “I’m about to do something crazy, no more delayin’/No destiny is too far.” ‘Instant Destiny’ is the album’s care-free anthem, its laid back groove and brassy accompaniment apt for cruising down the highway in summer, escaping reality by living in the moment (no matter how reckless that might be): “We can get a home in Miami, go and get married/Tattoo your name on my arm.”

Next is ‘Borderline’ (released as a single in April 2019), which serves as a natural next step in the narrative progression of The Slow Rush. After the live-fast-die-young mentality of ‘Instant Destiny,’ the third track, with its harpsichord-like synth, makes us feel as if Parker is confessing the sins committed in his last tune: “Gone a little far this time with something/How could I have known?” The song seethes with regret as he questions who he is and what he has done. In an interview with Pitchfork, Parker described this song as an acknowledgement of the ways he got caught up in the LA lifestyle, how it “really messed (him) up.” As he questions “Will I be known and loved?/Is there one that I trust?” the bass becomes louder, grittier, the weight of Parker’s dread piling on throughout the chorus.

While the story of Parker’s battle with his existential thoughts barrels on, a mid-album standout is ‘On Track.’ After grappling with tracks filled with regret and nostalgia, ‘On Track’ comes as a moment of consolation; of acceptance that we are doing the best we can. It starts off ballad-like, mellow, with a relatively unaffected piano accompaniment (plus the inevitable synth) as Parker sings, “I close my front door and turn on the light/I let out a breath and hold in a sigh.” And suddenly, as he reaches the chorus lyric, “But strictly speaking, I’m still on track,” he shifts gears into the epic, the inspirational, with an impactful bass drum hit right on the downbeat and highly amplified, drawn out bass. Light, Billy Joel-esque piano riffs play overhead. The whole track is a sigh of relief: we are going to be okay.

The album comes full circle with its concluding seven-minute track, ‘One More Hour.’ The final track finds power in its sudden shifts from full, almost-chaotic texture — with blaring bass, grungy guitar, psychedelic synth solos, pounding drums — to bare, two-note piano. It leaves you breathless. Paired with lyrics that center around Parker’s reevaluation of his priorities: “I did it for fun…/I did it for fame…/Not for her/Not for my future children/Until now”, the track effectively fulfills Parker’s description that the song is about “the feeling that your life is about to turn a chapter…like there’s no turning back.”

As this monumental track comes to a close, and the album ends with it, Parker chooses to fade out while repeating variations on the lyric, “Just a minute, batter up before you go out there/All your voices said you wouldn’t last a minute there.” This feels like a callback to Tame Impala’s earlier repetitive mantra-based tunes (“Gotta Be Above It” comes to mind), and comforts listeners with what feels like a highly personal reassurance from Parker: even though voices said he wouldn’t make it, he’s still here.

OUCD look to Showcase event following national success

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Oxford University Contemporary Dance is one of Oxford’s newest sports societies, establishing itself in the last three years as a popular group for those with a background in dance. The main events of the year are a showcase managed by students, and the Varsity Match: the two are on consecutive weekends in Hilary. Cambridge have prevailed in every encounter so far, but their team is better established and funded. Current President Tia Wright hopes that the group will expand in the coming years, with the main priority at the moment being to secure more funding from the University Sports Federation.

The sport is not a blue or half-blue, as the current format of these awards doesn’t suit a sport where almost every aspect is fundamentally collaborative: the group even create all their own choreography. OUCD, however, is extremely popular, with around 50 students auditioning this year. Many of the members have been dancing since a young age, and see OUCD as an alternative to conventional university sports. The main categories of dance are ballet, hiphop, tap, jazz and contemporary, with many students taking part in multiple routines. Every member is present at the Varsity match and also has the opportunity to choreograph routines, regardless of how long they have been in the group. It is perhaps one of Oxford’s sports which demands the most specialised skills, but this does not stop many members from putting their stamina and high levels of fitness (some routines are up to four minutes long) to use in more conventional college sports. The balance between contemporary dance as a sport and as a performing art is central, with the creative process of choreography linked to what is physically possible in many movements. 

The current period is when the commitment is at its highest, with multiple two-hour rehearsals every week in order to prepare for a national competition, the showcase and the varsity match. The showcase is generally seen as the biggest event in the calendar. It features some of the university’s top dancers and encompasses OUCD’s vision of challenging artistic boundaries, and promoting dance across Oxford. This year’s event will take place at Headington School on Friday 21st and Saturday 22nd February, with tickets available on Fixr for £7, and has been organised by Grace Allen and Amy Charles. The wildcard routine will be burlesque.

The following weekend sees the annual Varsity match at the Keble O’Reilly theatre, with tickets just £3 on Fixr. The format includes a range of routines, with a winner identified by the judges in each category of dance and the overall result determined by the team with the most victories.

Sophia MacKay and Lucy Bland wrote the following report from this weekend’s competition at DMU:

“On Saturday, OUCD competed at De Montfort University’s dance competition against 8 different University teams in over 10 categories. The judging panel was comprised of three former and current dancers, each majoring in the categories of ballet, jazz and hip hop. All the dances were choreographed by a member of the team and we have been working towards this in preparation for our upcoming shows on the 21st and 22nd of February, as well as our annual Varsity competition against Cambridge on the 29th February, which will include all of these dances and more!

Once the 5am alarms, car battery issues and multiple weather warnings were overcome, we arrived in Leicester with plenty of time and lots of excitement! First up was ballet: although we were nervous for our first appearance on the Leicester stage, the combination of pointe work and a jazzy style impressed the judges and we came away with third place. This was followed by contemporary, where unlike the previous dances which were received with cheers, the audience fell completely silent, evidently a good sign as we were awarded second place for our efforts. Tap was up next with a smooth execution and feel-good attitude, coming third in the section. Our Britney Spears-inspired jazz ‘Toxic’ was very strong, also taking third place. This was followed by hip-hop, choreographed by our president, which was sassy, sharp and really fun to watch, with the audience’s enjoyment made clear by loud cheers. We also came away with second place in this category. 

After a quick lunch break came the lyrical and wildcard sections. Lyrical came third with its moving storytelling and teamwork. The wildcard category includes any dance that does not fit into the others, with Oxford entering a Burlesque dance, as well as a Mamma Mia mashup, which features in our show trailer. This meant some of our dancers had a very quick change as they were performing in two dances in the same category! Due to the massive variety of dances entered into this category, it is always difficult to judge, so we were very happy to come away with a third place trophy for our Burlesque number. The final category of the day was duets/trios, in which we entered two pieces. Gabrielle and Amy R performed a beautiful contemporary duet whilst Amy C, Grace and Gabrielle stunned the audience with their jazz trio – both pieces that will be featured in our upcoming show.”


Review: BOYS

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Boys, by Ella Hickson, centres on a group of men at the crisis point between university and the real world. As both Benny and Mack conclude their lives as students and as Cam prepares for a career-defining music recital, Timp drowns out the drudgery of his aimless job with drugs, booze and sex. Together, they approach a watershed in life as they are faced with the ending of the lease on their flat and a harsh confrontation with their own futures. We watch, captivated, as their internal chaos escapes into actuality.

The real strength of this production was in the fullness of its characters; they were all crafted to be far beyond the sum of their plot points. The audience was presented with six developed and diverse people rather than meagre shadows of personality. There was also no dominance of any one character, even though that may have been expected to be the case with the animated, and unpredictable, Timp, funding much of the comic relief. Rather, larger-than-life Timp (Charlie Wade), enhanced the somber and ruminative character of Mack (Josh Shepherd-Smith). Just as the obsessive and somewhat timid Benny (Alasdair Linn) opposes the more easy-going yet internally disorientated Cam (Joe Woodman). The girls, Sophie and Laura, played by Georgie Dettmer and Tara Kelly were not reduced to romantic interests of the ‘boys’ but were distinct with their own morals, feeling and depth. The group created was dynamic and acutely realistic.

The complementarity of the cast, their best acting by far was in scenes where they were all together, allowed them to bounce off each other, at once existing as incredibly tired of each other’s company and at the same time hopelessly and fondly codependent. These scenes were vibrant and excruciatingly real. There was constant movement, no static characters waiting for a repetitive tedium of call-and-response, but actors bouncing off one another, at once interrupting and talking over each other but still perfectly clear and understandable in what they were saying. The juxtaposition between pop and classical music embodied the flow of the erratic nature of the play as the characters hopped from situation to situation, clinging to anything that distracted them from the realities they were trying to avoid. 

Under the amber glow of a plastic bag over the light, both a comforting warm presence and an unsettling haze, the set design was a perfect realization of the emotions of the play. The tumultuous and claustrophobic flat was littered with rubbish bags, empty and partly full bottles and drugs. This mess grew over the duration. As Timp walked on the tables, kicking bottles and spilling drinks, the characters were able to truly exist and interact with a set making it more real than the oft preserved and untouched set designs which are usually seen in performances. The intricacy of the set is testament to the design team: from ‘boobs’ arranged in letters on the fridge, to the notes about ‘loud sex’ on the pin board, they presented a set which was acutely authentic and perfectly symbolic.

Directors Charlie Barlow and Millie Tupper created a perfect expression of a mental bedlam, as the turbulence of life comes to the forefront with its uncontrollable and untamable nature. This whirl of fast-paced plot truly makes it feel as life is slipping away and the increasing disarray encapsulates the suffocating existential fever gripping the play.

University plans to announce its commitment to Oxford Living Wage

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Oxford University plans to announce its commitment to pay the Oxford Living Wage to its staff from August 2020.

The Living Wage in Oxford is £10.21 per hour as of November 2019, when the council increased it from £10.02.

To become an accredited Living Wage Employer, all directly employed staff need to be paid a Living Wage, with a plan to extend it to regular sub-contracted staff.

The Oxford Living Wage Campaign, a student organisation that has pressured the University into adopting the living wage, says: “These workers, who are employed in cleaning, catering, events, maintenance, and other necessary jobs, are an integral part of our university community. Excluding them from this protection is shameful.

“In the long term, the new policy is dangerous for workers—even those who will benefit initially from the Living Wage today.

“By leaving a loophole that excludes outsourced workers from the Oxford Living Wage rate, the policy generates a perverse incentive for the University to hire more subcontracted workers at a lower rate of pay, rather than creating good, sustainable living wage jobs. We call upon the University to commit to paying all workers, including subcontracted workers, the Oxford Living Wage. We call upon constituent Colleges to adopt the Living Wage standard for all staff, regardless of contract.

“There is no longer any excuse for low pay in the Colleges, while the University acknowledges its obligation to workers. We understand that the new policy deepens the precarity of non-academic work at the university; this move complements the university’s complicity in the worsening casualization of academic jobs. We join in solidarity with non- academic and academic workers, organized through the UCU, in the fight against casualization and insufficient pay across the UK higher education sector.”

The City Council sets the Oxford Living Wage as 95% of the London Living Wage, which is £10.75. The national minimum wage for adults is currently £8.72. The £10.21 Oxford Living Wage means, if an employee works a 37 hour week, they will receive a minimum annual pay of £19 644. This is calculated by using the Minimum Income Standard, which finds what people need to be able to afford the basic level of goods.

Oxford City Council says: “The Oxford Living Wage has been created to promote liveable earnings for workers. It reflects the fact that Oxford is one of the most expensive cities to live in the UK, and helps accredited employers demonstrate they value their workforce.

“With expensive housing in the city, many workers have to choose between spending more money to live in the city, or more on travel to get to work. The Oxford Living Wage has been created to promote liveable earnings for workers. It reflects the fact that Oxford is one of the most expensive cities to live in the UK, and helps accredited employers demonstrate they value their workforce.”

A spokesperson for Oxford University said: “The University of Oxford can confirm it has agreed to sign up to pay the Oxford Living Wage (OLW), making it the largest employer in the city to do so. More details will be announced shortly. As part of our commitment to the OLW, we have also agreed to include all sub-contracted employees as soon as practicable.

“Colleges are independent employers and will make their own decisions on the Oxford Living Wage, but they are collectively considering the details of the scheme.

“The OLW is 95% of the London Living Wage, in recognition of the high cost of living in Oxford, and was set in November 2019 at £10.21 per hour. “