Last year it was Valentino’s collection which was inspired by “wild Africa”, now Marc Jacob’s use of dreadlocks. Wikipedia defines cultural appropriation as “the adoption or use of elements of one culture by members of another.” Some call this cultural appropriation; I would just call it culture. The adaptation of new and different ideas is precisely what drives culture forward.

Tchaikovsky’s immortal Nutcracker, in which the Russian composer included stereotypically Chinese and Arab sounding motifs, Isaac Mizrahi’s Native American inspired Fall 1991 collection and at least half of Mozart’s operas including The Magic Flute could qualify as culturally appropriative. Everything, if you trace it back far enough, has crossed cultural borders at one time or another. The best artists of all kinds draw on a variety of cultures and ideas—that is what makes their art powerful. No one “owns” any story or music or hairstyle. From whom, precisely, are artists supposed to ask permission before being inspired by a culture to which they do not belong? Later this month, there will be a discussion at Barnard College in New York about whether or not Yoga and Zumba are permissible under the new strictures of cultural appropriation.

By the same logic I suspect that the Greek Society at Barnard will soon lodge a protest against the school allowing non-Greek students to participate in track & field athletic events as, after all, this constitutes cultural appropriation from the originally Greek Olympic Games.

Students at Oberlin have actually protested the presence of sushi in the dining hall, as it is prepared by white chefs and is hence insensitive. Imagine not being able to eat any food but that traditionally prepared by your own ethnic group. Imagine not being able to write anything from a perspective other than your own. Imagine not being able to exercise in whatever manner you please.

Imagine a world without Shakespeare, Picasso, Mozart, Mark Twain, or James Baldwin. This is the type of world denigrators of cultural appropriation are driving us to. It is not one I ever wish to enter.

Kate Asquith:

When you think of corsets, you picture Disney princesses and Victorian ball gowns, not sweaty Kardashian sisters doing lunges in a waist trainer. However, just because the style in which wearing a corset has changed, it does not mean that the reason behind it is in any way less concerned with conforming to an aesthetic silhouette than it was when made of whale bones and cording. Medical corsets are perhaps the only exception to this rule—and “rule” is not actually an inaccurate word to use when describing the trend for corsetting. In the most literal sense, the corset emerged during the 1550s when Catherine de Medici banned thick waists in the court of her husband, King Henry II of France. The idea of suffering for beauty is epitomised by a garment that dominated centuries’ worth of fashion, and damaged centuries’ worth of bodies.

The idea of “waist training” has only recently propelled it into the public consciousness through minor celebrity endorsement, but the health issues are horrifyingly similar to those experienced by women over a century ago. The tightness often means that a woman can only breathe from the top of her lungs, causing the bottom of them to fill with mucus, or forcing the wearer to take shallow breaths which results in lack of oxygen and possible loss of consciousness. The pressure on the stomach also causes indigestion and constipation, with the internal organs squished together so they are unable to function properly. This, according to Dr. Majid Ali, if severe and untreated, can be fatal. The psychological effects are just as profound, “waist training can serve as a constant reminder of your present shape” says Dr Galyna Selezneva, highlighting the difference in appearance with and without the corset, which ultimately aids mental health problems like depression, anxiety and eating disorders to develop.

While I believe a person should be free to wear what they wish, those who claim that corsets are feminist often confuse personal freedom with social standardisation. Essentially, wear them because they make you feel good, not because a narrow waist is the result of narrow-mindedness. Other-wise, you are disregarding consistent and historical oppression. You are supporting the sexism of a garment that, if worn by a woman is considered “sexy”, but if worn by a man is seen as “kinky”. This is a garment that was actively used to perpetuate classism since only the richest women could afford the servants to help tie up the heavily-laced bodices. A garment that is just as destructive as skull-shaping or foot-binding but because it evolved in Western society is not considered barbaric. Ironically, every time a corset was seen on the fall catwalks, it was worn by someone whose waist was already 24 inches, and so was already non-representative of the average woman.

Catrin Haberfield:

Sweaty Kardashians have as much right to wear a corset as Disney princesses. You can’t deny the impact the media has had on attitudes towards body image. You could say that this conditions girls from a young age to aspire to these goals—but that doesn’t mean that corsetry in itself is damaging. If anything, wearing a corset could be seen as a feminist statement. Far from making someone feel insecure and hyper-aware of their figure, they can instead off er a dose of confidence, whether for everyday life or special occasions.

By suggesting that there’s something inherently sexist about someone wearing a corset, you’re taking away the fact that it’s a woman’s choice to wear what she wants. Think of the “Slut Walks” that have appeared over recent years; it’s never someone else’s place to judge what you wear, or to say you were “asking for it”. In any case, corsets occupy a liminal space as a simultaneous representation of restriction and sexuality, meaning that no matter who you ask, everyone’s opinion will be different. But if any form of shapewear makes you feel great, then go for it. Besides, being a fan of corsets doesn’t mean that you have to prove it by going out in public wearing nothing but lingerie!

Different aspects of corsetry have made their way into fashion over the years—from bustiers to the current trend for lace-up tops. Whether it’s underneath a dress for formals or balls, or integrated into a cosplay outfit, as long as you’re comfortable and doing it for yourself, I don’t see anything wrong with wearing corsets.

However, there are limits. Chaise loungues were known as “fainting couches” in the 1800’s for a reason, and like anything there’s a balance to find. Surprisingly though, corsets do come with a variety of physical benefits. For those with a larger chest overbust corsets provide support from beneath rather than hanging three kilograms from your neck and shoulders. They’ve been proven to alleviate back pain and migraines, as well as improve posture. Ultimately, I think we both agree that when it comes to corsetry in particular, personal motives are infinitely more important than anyone else’s opinion.