Monday, May 19, 2025
Blog Page 154

Making Out in Mesopotamia: kissing older than previously thought

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Kissing may be a thousand years older than was believed, a new study conducted by the universities of Oxford and Copenhagen suggests. 

The study dates ‘human lip kissing’ as being an established feature of life in early Mesopotamiam societies by roughly 3500 BCE. Before Doctors Troels Pank Arbøll and Sophie Lund Rasmussen’s research, studies had suggested South Asia was the cradle of kissing civilizations supposedly establishing the practice by around 2500 BCE.

“In ancient Mesopotamia, which is the name for the early human cultures that existed between the Euphrates and Tigris rivers in present-day Iraq and Syria, people wrote in cuneiform script on clay tablets”, said Dr Arbøll speaking with the Oxford Mail.

He continued, “many thousands of these clay tablets have survived to this day and they contain clear examples that kissing was considered a part of romantic intimacy in ancient times, just as kissing could be part of friendships and family members’ relations.” 

Among the tablets uncovered was a Babylonian clay model depicting what has been confidently called an ‘intimate scene’ dated roughly 1800 BCE. 

Dr Rasmussen added: “research into bonobos and chimpanzees, the closest living relatives to humans, has shown that both species engage in kissing, which may suggest that the practice of kissing is a fundamental behaviour in humans, explaining why it can be found across cultures.”

Perhaps unsurprisingly, evidence from Mesopotamian tablet records suggest that the institution of human lip kissing may have contributed to the transmission of cold sores. The sores are the hallmark symptom of a person infected with the herpes simplex virus 1 (HSV-1), which Arbøll and Rasmussen tentatively identify with the “bu’shanu disease” referenced in a body of ancient Mesopotamian medical texts. Arbøll qualified the hypothesis: “the symptoms [of bu’shanu are] reminiscent of the herpes simplex virus”.

However, Arbøll and Rasmussen stress that cuneiform descriptions are not to be taken at face value. “It’s important to note that these ancient medical texts can be influenced by cultural and religious beliefs”, said Arbøll. 

Rasmussen offered a less conservative analysis: “if the practice of kissing was widespread and well-established in a range of ancient societies, the effects of kissing in terms of pathogen transmission must likely have been more or less constant.”

Neither Atik nor Bridge responded to requests for comment.

Hertford closes its library until 2025 for £16m renovations

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Hertford college library plans to close in July 2023, with the fully renovated library to reopen in Michaelmas 2025. The renovations are estimated to cost Hertford £16 million.

Hertford claims that “our current library is not fit for purpose”. Last updated in the 1960s, they say that “staff and reader facilities are inadequate and cramped, and we do not have enough capacity for our modern or our historic collections.” The library currently houses an antiquarian collection of around 5,000 rare books which they say is currently ‘below national standard’.

The design of the new building hopes to resemble a “living space.” It will have areas for silent, solo study, study carels, and communal tables for group working. For improved accessibility, there will be a lift to allow step-free access to all floors. Additionally, they plan to create temperature-controlled rooms that have the space and capacity to store their archives.  

The main reading room will be underground with windows designed to maximise light. The front quad will remain almost without alteration. The plans also include the construction of a room terrace which will look over the Radcliffe Square.

The projects for expansion will increase the floor plan from 273 sqm to 607 sqm, doubling the amount of study seats available. It will also provide five new meeting rooms.

These works form part of the college’s desire to reach carbon net zero and biodiversity net gain by 2030. The design includes increased thermal performance as well as upgraded green spaces. 

The renovation is part of the ‘Hertford 2030’ project which “preserves the best of our past and enables the future of learning.” The college aspires to have half of the renovation funded by philanthropic donations. They are offering alumni opportunities to name a chair in the new library for £1,000, add their names to an online benefactors’ book, or fund a particular area of the library. 

From Michaelmas 2023 Hertford college is planning to offer students study space provisions and access to resources from other locations across college sites.  

Interview: ‘The Mandrake of Machiavelli’ at Exeter College

Most people probably haven’t heard of The Mandrake. Could you briefly explain what it’s about?

Kian: It’s set in Renaissance Florence, where the young Callimaco has fallen in love with Lucrezia. It’s a classic situation: Lucrezia is married, so Callimaco has a problem. His solution involves tricking Lucrezia’s husband (Nicia) into allowing his own wife to be unfaithful. Callimaco gets the help of a shady fixer called Ligurio and a corrupt Friar. That at least is what happens in the play: the question of what it’s ‘about’ is slightly more complicated.

Yes, fair enough, and I think you’ve shot yourself in the foot here, but could you have a go at answering what it’s about as well?

Kian: For what it’s worth, I think The Mandrake is about the wonder of effortful human achievement. Callimaco fixes his mind on a goal. It seems at first difficult or impossible, but he comes up with a clever and inventive plan, he tries hard in the execution of it, and it succeeds.

Aymen (Friar): I think it’s probably worth pointing out that that’s a quite unusual reading. For me, it seems much more obvious that it’s about how society, or men in particular, will go through the most ridiculous schemes in the pursuit of sex.

Kian: Sex is a part of it, and Callimaco does go through a lot of nonsense to obtain that goal, but it’s also true that this telos is entirely unoriginal and repetitive in the context of Renaissance comedy. What is interesting about The Mandrake isn’t the goal itself, but the way they achieve that goal. Hopefully that also goes some way to explaining why I’m interested in this play and decided to do it.

Why did you choose to do it in the Exeter gardens?

Matilda: First of all, it’s only half in the gardens. Then there’ll be an interval, and people can enjoy their drinks before moving to the chapel for the second half.

Kian: Yeah, and I think all of these locations make good sense for The Mandrake. In Florence, Brunelleschi’s dome is one of the most prominent landmarks, and maybe this is a bit facile, but where in Oxford is better to suggest that than somewhere with a view of the Radcliffe Camera? Much of the second half naturally belongs in a chapel too, as the Friar becomes more and more prominent.

Ethan (Callimaco): And you missed the deadlines for the BT and Pilch.

Kian: There’s that as well.

Are you bringing anything new to your production of The Mandrake?

Ben (Ligurio): homosexuality.

Kian: That’s true, but it’s not the only novelty we have in store. That said, I don’t think we’d be doing any crime by staging a play as obscure as this without much novel spin.

What do you think each of your characters contributes to the play?

Matilda: My character is very elusive and rarely appears onstage.

Kian: She appears onstage much more than many of the other characters…

Ben (Ligurio): I’d say there are two elements to this play, the funny part, and the actual plot, and Ligurio drives the actual plot.

Clem (Nicia): I’m basically there so people can make fun of my character.

Aymen (Friar): I’m there for that reason, and also to make fun of the Church.

Thura (Siro): I’m there to wash Ethan’s feet.

It’s starting fall apart a bit here. Let’s all try to sum up the play in three words.

Aymen (Friar): Money, sex, power.

Matilda: Comedy and commentary.

Kian: Buy tickets now.

Ben (Ligurio): Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday.

Ethan (Callimaco): And also Friday.

Clem (Nicia): This week only.

Aymen (Friar): See you there.

Kian: Ok, I think we’ve made that point to death now.

Tickets: https://www.ticketsource.co.uk/green-carnations-productions

Ever Gunner get a better chance?

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Arsenal’s 1-0 loss to Nottingham Forest officially crowned Manchester City as Premier League champions for the fifth time in six years. But how did Arsenal let their biggest rivals win so comfortably with three games still to play? On January 18th, the Gunners held a sizeable eight-point lead over City, and they have spent 248 days at the top of the Premier League table this season, the most any side has ever done to then not win the league. The accusations of ‘bottling’ from rival fans are natural, but the reasons for such a late-season falter are of course more complex.

The first thing to note is Arsenal were not expected by anyone to challenge for the title this season. Having finished 5th last season, most expected them to challenge for the top 4 again, but really even the aspirations of their own fans did not extend much beyond that for their domestic campaign. Arteta recruited well in the summer, though, bringing in the City duo of Oleksandr Zinchenko at left-back and Gabriel Jesus as striker, as well as utilising the perennially loaned-out William Saliba at centre-back, who has particularly excelled, although was injured recently. 

His injury is a notable example of one of the crucial issues afflicting Arsenal in the late stages of the campaign: an unfortunate injury record and the lack of quality squad depth to make sufficient amends. Rob Holding has had to step in for Saliba at times, and he has clearly been exposed. The crushing 4-1 loss at the Etihad last month was particularly damming for Holding, unable to compete with the immense physicality and pace of Erling Haaland.

And while it is a myth to say that Man City possess a much larger squad than the rest of the league to deal with injuries and differing fitness levels of players, as City have actually only used 23 players across the course of the season, 3 less than Arsenal and the least in the entire division, it is fair to say that the quality of their replacements is superior to Arsenal’s. When Guardiola wishes to rest Bernardo Silva, he has the quality of Mahrez to step in, and he even at times has the licence to leave De Bruyne out in favour of World Cup-winning Julian Alvarez. 

The relentlessness of Manchester City cannot be underestimated one bit. This is a side that has won their last twelve Premier League matches – a side that has amassed more than 90 points on multiple occasions, even hitting 100 in 2018, and has now added arguably the best striker in the world in Erling Haaland to the team. It is hard to argue against them being the best Premier League side of all time, so is it really fair to see Arsenal as having ‘bottled it’?

There are perhaps some foundations in the argument of Arsenal showing a certain mental fragility in recent months. In April, they threw away 2 goal leads in consecutive games, the first away to Liverpool and the second to West Ham. Some have pointed to such results to suggest that the side lacked sufficient experience in decisive moments to hold their nerve and ensure the win, as true champions would. Arsenal has the youngest average squad age in the league, at 24.4 years, and aside from the aforementioned Zinchenko and Jesus, don’t have the luxury of players who consistently know how to handle the pressures associated with a title challenge, as City do. Having said this, they have equally shown moments of character in recent weeks, too, such as rescuing a 3-3 draw in the last minute against Southampton, having trailed 3-1. While such lack of experience may have proved a factor, therefore, it is not enough in and of itself to explain the drop-off. In fact, their youth can be said to have been a factor in their free-flowing, fearless football at the start of the campaign which fared them so well. 

Arsenal has had an unexpectedly impressive season, and although their performances in the past few months have been disappointing, to say the least, their inability to maintain their position at the top of the league should not be too excessively critiqued, given the fact quality of opposition they have been up against. The fear is, however, that this is a missed opportunity and one which may not present itself again in the near future. Manchester United are likely to improve further under Erik Ten Hag, as will Newcastle with more investment and both Liverpool and Chelsea have experienced off seasons this year, particularly the latter. Even though the criticism targeted at Arsenal in recent weeks should be considered more thoughtfully and put in proper context, it is slightly concerning for supporters of the Gunners that they may never get such a palpable opportunity to win the league again in the coming years.

Image Credit: U.S. Embassy London//CC BY-ND 2.0 via Flickr

Oxford Lancers thrash Cambridge to retake Blues Bowl title  

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Saturday 13th May saw Cambridge Pythons visit Oxford’s brand-new pitch at University Parks to face off against the Lancers in the 16th annual varsity bowl. 

Although a strong team, the Lancers have faced a mixed season in their first year in Division 1. The Lancers suffered 5 losses but narrowly avoided relegation with 2 late season wins. This, paired with their unfortunate Varsity loss last year in a hard-fought contest against the Pythons, meant that the Lancers had it all to do this year. 

It was a cloudy day as crowds trickled into the stands of the Lancer’s new pitch, their logo firmly placed in the centre. The ambience was very relaxed, a mood that was in stark contrast to the determined Blues. On home turf and with a strong team, they indeed had the advantage, but weren’t going to rely on it.  

The game started out with good back-and-forth progress from both sides but neither team was able to establish themselves as the dominant offense. Soon however, the Lancers found an opportunity, capitalizing on a botched Pythons punt return and recovering the ball at the 15 yard-line. A couple of plays later, Quarterback Joel Chesters ran the ball wide to the right, avoiding tackles to score the first touchdown of the game – after a successful kick the score was 7-0 Lancers.  

Joel Chesters continued to torment the tabs the whole second quarter, starting with an impressive pass over multiple defenders which landed in the hands of receiver #19, Kevin Kim for the touchdown. Another converted kick by #8 Greg Rashid took the score up to 14-0. But Chesters was not done yet and near the end of the second quarter, he once again unleashed a stunning ball which was taken to the house by #14 Aari Shah with a beautiful catch and incredible speed for a 70-yard touchdown. After a slow start, Oxford had broken the back line of Cambridge finishing the first half with a score of 21-0. The Lancers’ defence, led by #15 Tom Ricketts was staunch and stopped any Cambridge offensive progress. Any momentum that the Cambridge team could bring into the next half of the game was gone, as it looked like it was Oxford’s before the half-time whistle was blown.  

The halftime show starred the impressive Sirens, who showed off flips and tricks to cheer on the team, and the mood in the stands and in the team was exciting and enjoyable. The players were cheered onto the field again for the second half of the game. 

The Oxford Lancers running game, led by running back #2 David Ojeabulu defined the start of the second half. The Pythons were facing threats from Chesters on the outside and Objeablu up the middle throughout the game. The Lancers running duo proved too much for Cambridge as the tabs were caught out between clogging the middle and covering the outsides. Chesters quickly scored his fourth touchdown, this time running it again wide to the left. Another converted kick took  the score to 28-0 

Eventually, the fourth quarter rolled around and after a touchdown from #2 Ojeabulu, a worthy reward for his 90+ yard effort in this game, the 35-0 score changed in Cambridge’s favour and a small bit of hope brewed for the clearly defeated Pythons. After a quick timeout, a well-deserved touchdown for the Pythons came behind a great drive from runningback #1 Mackintosh. The converted kick took the score to 35-7. With just a minute left to go, however, Oxford was keen to leave the biggest gap possible and collected another touchdown with just over a minute to play. Joel Chesters, the clear MVP of the match found his touchdown trifecta, a Lancer’s trick play had runningback Ojeabulu throw the ball to Chesters who ran it in for the touchdown; his reception made the score 41-7 and marked the end of the Blues Bowl.  

Ultimately the Lancers outplayed the Pythons this year, righting the wrongs of last by playing a faultless game. The Pythons will be disappointed with the performance but should be proud of the fighting spirit that they had until the end.  

Credit has to be given to all the event organisers, prominently Stewart Humble (#52 and Center for the Lancers) who in partnership with RC Milsap established the Lancers’ brand new grounds and organized this years Varsity Bowl. Credit is also due to the Sirens for their incredible performance midway. We look now to next year when Cambridge will seek to enact revenge. 

Image Credit:Gary Chesters

“The world around us is evolving at a much faster pace than the reading lists”: Are women underrepresented in the curriculum? 

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The fact that women seemed sidelined by the curriculum in school always seemed an accepted fact. In GCSE English, we encountered depictions of Curley’s unnamed wife; in History, it was almost inevitable that women were not featured in broad discussions of 20th-century warfare. When it came to STEM subjects, I was far too preoccupied trying to pass maths to notice whether or not credit was being given where it was due. 

Dinah, a first-year Chemist, did notice. While completing GCSE and A-Level sciences she observed the persistent absence of female scientists in the school curriculum.  With a group of friends, Dinah wrote a letter to the Department of Education bringing up this concern. The reassuring response that arrived soon after stated that teachers could ‘teach about female scientists if they want to’. Taking into consideration just how little time there is to fit the curriculum into the school year and that teaching tends to be centred around the demands of exams, it is no surprise that the extracurricular inclusion of women scientists is unlikely to be undertaken. 

You can’t invent women scientists to be included in the curriculum where they don’t exist, but we don’t need to do any such inventing. As Dinah says, they do exist, but they aren’t included in textbooks: ‘the reason why people don’t think they exist is because they don’t know their names. It doesn’t take much research to find the work of female scientists, whose work is so linked to what we’re learning.’ Since female scientists and mathematicians are occasionally included in lectures, it’s better than the school curriculums where they were absent entirely, but even so, there are times when  their work remains unrecognised. Dinah recalls, when learning about DNA, that the scientists Watson and Crick might be mentioned, but no one mentions their colleague, Rosalind Franklin. ‘I’m waiting for them to say her name and they haven’t, and that’s someone who’s relatively well known’. It must be noted that in Oxford, knowing scientists’ names is not required, instead it’s seen to be an ‘inspirational, extra thing’. This approach seems fair, students already have enough content to remember. Nonetheless, this attitude echoes those of the Department of Education, leaving the inclusion of scientists, particularly women scientists, to the educator’s discretion. 

How does Oxford fare in comparison to GCSE and A Levels? 

I spoke to Sharon, the president of Oxford University Feminist Society, who is also a Human Sciences finalist. She emphasised the importance of including a more intersectional view; not only are women underrepresented, but this is especially the case for BIPOC women: ‘Women are underrepresented – especially BIPOC women. If there are women’s perspectives included, it’s usually white, upper-middle class women’. This brings up ideas about who gets to be included on reading lists. Of course, a meritocratic process sounds like the best way to go, but it’s also important to consider the obstacles which prevent this process from being put in place. Meritocracy is supposed to reward the talented and hardworking and create legitimate hierarchies within academia. However, as Sharon made clear, there are many obstacles which (even unwittingly) prevent women, particularly BIPOC women, from being included in a ‘fair’ way. Studies in social psychology relate this phenomenon with ‘implicit bias’: the attachment of stereotypes to particular social categories such as race or gender, which are so ingrained that one may not know they hold them. It seems that the meritocratic system may unwittingly uphold implicit biases which most of the time propagate unjust stereotypes. For example, one study found that when it came to publication, if refereeing was not anonymous, women’s work was more likely to be evaluated more negatively than men’s – solely due to the name attached to the work. Awareness of this bias is perhaps the first way meritocratic systems can be followed according to their aims.

Representation can also have negative effects on the viewer, in this case, women. The impact of ‘seeing yourself’ represented in a certain field or discipline will inevitably have differing effects depending on the individual. As Sharon put it, “In the media it’s so important to see yourself, but in academia it’s so important to read yourself”. The representations which surround us invariably shape the stereotypes and perceptions we hold, with real consequences. As mentioned, implicit biases can be reinforced through underrepresentation, but it also reinforces another phenomenon called ‘stereotype threat’, which occurs when people are reminded of the negative stereotypes associated with themselves, and end up performing worse as a result. An interesting example of this was a 2004 study that found that women who checked the gender box before taking their AP calculus exam did worse than students who checked the box after. It seems that this problem may also be prevalent in Oxford; as Dinah told me, “I feel like even now doing my degree, everyday I’m bombarded with images of what a scientist looks like: a white man with grey hair”. Inevitably, this may lead to some difficulties in relatability and feelings of belonging within the scientific community – which is in contemporary times a very diverse field. Sharon emphasised that often the reading lists given to undergraduates do not reflect the discipline itself. In fact, Sharon continued that “The world around us is evolving at a much faster pace than the reading lists”. Both Dinah and Sharon agreed that the images and ideas presented in classes, and the reading lists which follow, may be lagging behind the developments outside of the classroom.

So what’s the solution? 

I brought up the idea of quotas, which seemed to be put forward by the Philosophy Department in 2018. The suggestion was to ‘feminise’ the curriculum by ensuring 40% of the authors on reading lists were women. Understandably, this created some debate – a quota seems to undermine the academic, meritocratic process to which higher institutions like Oxford should adhere. A quota could potentially fill the gaps of an implicitly exclusionary reading list, essentially forcing people to grapple with new perspectives that they otherwise would have never considered; as Sharon put it, “If it gets people to interact with literature they would never have looked for themselves … I think that can only do good… It widens people’s points of view whether they like it or not”. At the same time, numerical quotas seem quite arbitrary, and there doesn’t seem to be a one-size-fits-all approach that could be applied across different subjects. The divisive nature of a quota – leading to outrage about the preservation of meritocracy, also seems to be a drawback. Perhaps the most important thing is to emphasise the reason why a quota could exist, and as Sharon said, “Interrogate your assumptions to understand why it might be happening’, rather than seeing it as an ‘attack on the integrity of academia”. A quota is a double-edged sword: encountering new perspectives is crucial to a better understanding of the world, but the presentation of it as a method of shoehorning in new perspectives, rather than them being included for their academic excellence, would be performative. As Sharon commented, “The fact that they could exist is sad in and of itself. You aren’t just going to increase representation of women because you should, because they offer a perspective, but because you are forced to”. This conversation also brings us back to Dinah and her group’s call to better include women in the GCSE and A-Level curriculums. It doesn’t seem like a taxing demand – it seems more so about giving credit where credit is due. How can this be denied? 

Implementing institutional change in Oxford seems difficult; the university is so fragmented in its organisation, and institutes source their tutors individually. Sharon believes this system is used as an ‘excuse’ to prevent a change – ‘because the system works this way there’s nothing we can do to change it’. Considering whose responsibility it is to push for change is also interesting. Sharon talked about how after the BLM protests in 2020, an announcement was made before a lecture which asked students to submit any suggestions they had to the Race Equality Task Force. Sharon continued,‘They were particularly looking at me and the only other black person in the room. It was great but it was also very uncomfortable being singled out’. Sharon also emphasised the wider trend of placing the responsibility to enact change on students, particularly by Diversity and Equality officers. Change of the curriculum is only a symptom of wider social conditions, but even so, it’s important to try and recognise the need for change, because, as Dinah said it best, ‘as students, we are also the next generation of teachers’.

To find out more about Dinah’s campaign, email: [email protected]

Find more information about Oxford Fem Soc: @oxfemsoc

Mambo Italiano — Carlotta comes to Marylebone

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Carlotta is number five in the Paris-based group Big Mamma’s London outposts. This time, Italian American is the theme and yet again, the delivery is almost impeccable from start to finish. Glorious interiors, attentive service, and generally stunning food make Carlotta yet another delightful place to spend an indulgent Italian afternoon or evening.

The environment is one of the things that makes Big Mamma so special and Carlotta is no different. Upon entering, you are greeted by a golden stand-alone bar before going through into the light and airy main dining room. That Italian American theme is unescapable with the walls plastered by everything from photos of 20thCentury New York and Sicily to boxing belts — think considered and well-chosen tat (if you believe in such a thing). The skylight lends a light airiness to the main dining room akin to a courtyard. Downstairs is a whole different equation. The dark suede lounge is surrounded by mirrors and home to the open kitchen with disco classics playing. The vibe is sensational and I can easily imagine long evenings spent down here with eyes shifting from the chefs to food and then back to friends. The viral toilets that helped make these restaurants famous are here and will leave you subconsciously dancing (just don’t bother trying to check your make-up!)

Before anything else, cocktails have got to be the order of the day. The viral glasses are back with a vengeance and each and every cocktail and mocktail seems to be thoughtfully crafted. Across here and the four other sites, I reckon that I’ve tried almost all of them now and this time the Just Peachy Bellini and Cherry Bomb Spritz were on the menu. The peach was sweet and perhaps dangerously absent of any noticeable alcohol taste but the spritz was much better balanced. The wine list is, as ever, brilliantly well thought out with options on offer at each and every price point. There is everything here from a great value Montepulciano at just £8 a glass to £329 bottles of 2018 Barbaresco. Those varied price points are something that continues across the food menus and is one of the defining features of all of Big Mamma’s restaurants. Importantly, indulgent dining really is accessible to everyone: you can just as easily come in for a pasta and a glass of wine as splash out on four courses and £48 lobster dishes.

Peachy Bellin and Cherry Bomb Spritz

Antipasti comes first and the Piattino Aperitivo is a large selection of all three types of olives, grissini, artichoke, and mozzarella. Even better? The bresaola grissini. Don’t get me wrong, this is an incredibly simple dish that you’ll find in every restaurant in Italy but Carlotta’s twist of coating the inside of the meat with labneh before wrapping the grissini and adding a tiny grating of lime elevates that simplicity more than you could possibly imagine. At £11, it is great value too when you consider that it will easily serve three or four.

Seafood is the defining speciality at this Big Mamma location and the Shrimp Cocktail was our first taste of it. Again, this is a classic dish but enhanced by simple and straightforward touches. The marie rose uses less mayonnaise than others to create a much lighter flavour and the accompanying crudites include fennel which is a brilliantly nice touch. The tempura shrimp are dusted incredibly lightly to make sure that the flavour is nowhere near lost and tails are removed too (it’s the small things that make you feel special somewhere like this!).

It must be said that arancini were a small let-down. This might be a sign of a Carlotta twist gone wrong with the balls served atop pesto and coated in a pistachio crumb. This much sounds enticing but the mozzarella and provola interior is so creamy and cheesy that any structure is lost and the delicate nutty flavours are drowned out.

Ave Mario and Circolo Poplare shot to fame with viral videos of pasta served out of cheese wheels and make no mistake, that is still an option here — I fear there would be a revolt if it wasn’t. Our pasta dish was a new one though, Spaghetti con Gamberi Rossi. The sauce here is a rich bisque of the prawns themselves and incredibly heavy. It is absolutely delicious but this is a dish to share between two or three and almost certainly not one to tackle alone. The prawns themselves are Sicilian, grilled, and typically giant to add a meatiness to the pasta alongside the juices from the heads.

If you take a look at the menu one dish and one dish only stands out. There are a million different reinventions of Italian classics but only one secondi has a giant red box around it. The Lobster Carlotta is for two, costs £48 per person and comes alongside a salad and layered potatoes. This is steep at first glance but given the huge size and how much fresh lobster tends to cost you in central London, you could do far far worse. The 1kg beast is dressed tableside in a beurre blanc that manages to add flavour whilst not overpowering the fresh shellfish like these sauces so often do. If you are paying close to £100 for a dish then you likely aren’t interested in a creamy butter sauce but you are more than free to add extra as you see fit. What is more, the sides really aren’t done justice by their descriptions. The ‘crispy layered potatoes’ consist of five slices of potato, each sandwiched with Parmigiano Reggiano before being lightly fried to achieve a thick consistency reminiscent of polenta. They need a dip and this is where that beurre blanc can really come into its own. The salad is a lot simpler than that but the dressing brings an enhanced freshness where so often leaves are ruined by being drowned to kingdom come. Quite simply, if you come to Carlotta, then this is the dish.

And desserts, oh desserts. Since going to my first Big Mamma restaurant, Circolo Poplare, I have entered each and every one looking forward to the final course. That’s dangerous when meals here can last a good few hours but that wait is almost always worth it. I never cease to be amazed by how I make it to this stage barely able to move from eating and yet find room for more. I always used to explain this to my mum by the presence of a ‘dessert tummy’. Whether or not that is a biologically sound explanation, I’d encourage you to do your very best to find one.

Somewhat tragically, Jacuzzi’s pistachio profiterole isn’t present but Carlotta’s Wedding Cake, the restaurant’s namesake, very much is. I’m really not a cake person and sponge is usually far too dry for me. Admittedly, there’s no danger of that with this one with each slice of genoise layered with vanilla cream and whole raspberries (there’s no messing about with jams). Atop is a creamy meringue sauce, raspberry coulis, and meringue chunks that collapse over the whole thing in a tableside show when the plastic coating is removed. Go on, get out the camera — it’s a total cliché but it’s why you’re here after all.

The best deal on the sweet front is the Dolci e Caffettino. For just £11 you get an espresso and a mini version of tiramisu, fresh berries with cream, and the signature chocolate tart. All three are distinct and rich in their own ways and you certainly don’t need a full portion of any of them. That, combined with the delightful boar crockery, makes this a great order.

Carlotta is special, but then again each and every time this group opens a new site that same fact remains the case. I will never cease to be amazed by that consistently remarkable ability to reinvent and remix tried and tested recipes into new and individual eateries. From the outside, it looks comic book-esque and is easy to scoff at. Step inside though, and you are instantly transported into an enthralling world of delightful Italian atmospheres, service, and food. There’s no surer bet in London or around Europe for a pleasant and special long meal than a Big Mamma restaurant and Carlotta lives up to that reputation.

Charles III: King or Emperor?

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When stripped down to its most skeletal form, the Coronation of King Charles III entailed a simple ferrying of objects from altar to throne. The Crown, of course—expertly installed upon the monarch’s greyed pate by the Archbishop; but also the Orb and Sceptre, staples of coronation portraiture from Charles II to Elizabeth II. And then, there were the more obscure objects: the oft-overlooked Glove and Ring, the lexically unfamiliar Stole Royal and Armills—all brought across to St. Edward’s Chair and then variously attached to the King’s person.  

This historic ritual of Investiture, at its heart a straightforward handing-over, is a theatre only elevated to significance by the symbolic value of players and props: the Crown as kingship and authority; the Sceptres as power temporal and spiritual; the Sovereign’s Orb as global Christendom. The mise en scène is completed by the towering nave of the Abbey itself, a frame which concentrates the history of all monarchs crowned before into a symbolically dense atmosphere. For the plain English of the liturgy, we have our reforming forebears to thank—but this language of signs speaks in plainer terms still: a language of power and empowerment, of authority and authorisation. It constitutes—to use the language of sociologist Anthony D. Smith—our national ‘myth-symbol’ complex: our means of communication that is not verbal but visual, and which stretches into the deep past.

Charles’ Investiture took place, however, with a royal twist. To stage the King’s commitment to diversity, each piece of regalia was brought to the monarch by a representative of a different minority group. The Lord Kamall, a Muslim, with the Armills; Baroness Merron, a Jew, with the Robe; the Archbishop of Armagh, an Irishman, with the Orb; and so on. In one fell swoop, the Anglican Church’s authority as sole conferrer of kingly power seemed to be quite intentionally fractured. More stunning still was the sleight of hand that seamlessly incorporated various religious and cultural traditions into the inflexible strictures of coronation tradition. 

Here was performed for us a new vision of kingship. Not a monarch pledging to serve his people, singular, but instead one taking pains to recognise the various discrete people-groups within his lands. In part this may reflect the King’s heartfelt commitment to the many customs of the Commonwealth. But the crucial equation of Britain’s religious and national traditions in the Investiture—the role of the Muslim peer identical to that of the Armagh Bishop—integrated religious and cultural groups both into a coequal authorising relationship with the King. 

This is a symbolic endorsement not of national monarchy, but of multinational Empire. It casts Charles’ role not only as ‘defender of the faiths’, but also ‘defender of the nations’. Ironically, this innovation was surely the most anachronistic feature of all the arcane ceremony, the rearing head of a pre-national age. Antagonism of emperor and ‘nation’ was at one time the norm. But it has long been thought the compelling power of the latter had choked all possibility of imperial resurgence. If Charles’ reign is to be more enduring than the truncated tenures of rulers swept away in the unifications, the cessations and the revolutions of the nineteenth century, the King must learn the lessons of the past.

The Habsburg Emperor served in the nineteenth century an identical role to the one which Charles III casts himself in now. Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s (r. 1848-1916) traditional role as defender of the Roman Catholic Church was compounded by visits to Jewish, Greek Catholic, and Eastern Orthodox sites; and later in his reign,m he took on the unlikely role of protector of the Muslim faith in Bosnia-Herzegovina. This cosmopolitan ethic did not limit itself to religious diversity: in Lviv, the Emperor laid the cornerstone of the Ruthene national institute, much to the thrill of local Ukrainians, and the chagrin of Poles. The parallels with the modern British monarchy are striking—indeed, David Lammy’s argument for constitutional monarchy made in the New York Times specifically lauds the King’s promotion of Guyanese, and more broadly, Caribbean identities. It is fundamental to recognise, then, that these are not leaders operating in non-national terms. Rather, accepting the logic of national and religious affiliation, they seek to win the loyalty of the various communities or ‘nations’ inside their polity. Lammy calls this a ‘civic version of British identity’, which is only true in a limited sense—in fact, religious-cultural identification lives on with vigour, such that the ‘civic’ institutions of the state must adopt symbolic signifiers of their recognition and support. Thus, when visiting Buda in 1857, the Austrian Empress Elisabeth wore red, white and green—the national colours of Hungary. The ‘myth-symbol’ complex of state ritual does not—or perhaps more correctly, cannot—become ‘civic’, because cultural and religious identity is still strongly felt. 

Of course, the critic might protest that I have hardly provided a neutral historical analogue. There is a narrative of the Habsburg Empire as a unwieldy hulk of disputatious national factions, whose collapse was written on the wooden walls of 1848s barricades. But this is simply nationalist teleology, which fails to see the cases in which fealty to the emperor was incredibly effective at neutralising dissent. One such case was in Galicia in 1846, when a Polish nationalist revolt was crushed and its agitators massacred not by the Imperial army, but instead by the very peasants who the revolutionaries had identified as their co-nationals. The power of the Imperial figurehead, then, could be thicker than blood. But this was especially the case for those groups which had not yet developed a matured national consciousness, and who could therefore be appealed to directly, unmediated through a national representative.

The risk of Charles III’s multicultural Investiture is that it comes to symbolically harden identity categories and as such deepen community division. In the Habsburg Empire, the insistence that all people belonged to national communities was in part the work of nationalists; but historian Pieter Judson argues it was also “a product of the ways agents of the empire categorised its diverse peoples.” Similarly, by staging the transfer of power between representatives of Britain’s religious-cultural communities, the coronation risked encoding difference: it assumed these identity categories had a preordained existence, rather than an existence constructed precisely by the kind of ceremony as this. 

All was not divisive, of course. Insofar as religious-cultural representatives partook in the ancient rituals of the monarchy at all, they became part of a common symbolic production, and thus a common identity. This is why the syncretic model of the Investiture was far more effective than the wholly unassimilated gospel choir, at least in terms of building national solidarity. Integration is when the threads of new traditions are drawn into the vast brocade of the old. 

But the question stands as to whether such representational devices are working. Among Britons 18-24 years old—a crucial ‘test’ category for these new methods of kingship—just 32% say that the monarchy is good for Britain, and this drops to 19% for ethnic minorities in the same age group. We should not conclude, however, that symbolic efforts are doomed to failure. The fact that, for the same categories, 24% and 37% respectively understand the monarchy to be “neither good nor bad for Britain” shows a significant proportion of the young population is apathetic rather than antagonistic towards royal ritual. The monarchy is not yet in dire straits. It will only founder if nationalist argumentation takes hold: either among right-wing English groups who envision a more historically-rooted monarchic culture, or among British religious or ethnic minorities for whom Anglican services with multicultural flourishes are not culturally satisfactory.

And yet precisely this fate beckons. Not because the siren song of ethno-cultural nationalisms have any great grip on the country’s psyche. But rather because Britain is crippled by a deep reluctance to pursue a policy of robust civic nationalism, which entails the education of the next generation into a common “myth-symbol” complex. Smith conceives of these as deeply rooted in specific cultural units, but this does not mean they cannot—given enough effort—be generalised within a diverse population by education. To institute such a policy would mean accepting a far higher level of monarchic ritual in the day-to-day life of the people—the kind of American ceremony that it is fashionable to sneer at. But the alternative is to leave a void which will necessarily be filled by identity affiliations more threatening to the state.

“Symbols are reality,” Lammy concludes his defence of the monarchy. If true, we saw one possible reality in the King’s Investiture—a symbolic working-together of various different religious and cultural representatives. It is a reality in which the King is the anchor in a heterogenous polity, staving off centrifugal forces that nationalist imaginings threaten. And it has a significant historical precedent. Otto von Bismarck, credited almost single-handedly with the unification of the various German states into an Empire, argued in his memoir that the identity formation of the masses was “conditioned by their attachment to the dynasty after which they call themselves.” The Carolean ethic has potential to make the monarchy even more structurally indispensable to British identity than it is now. 

But His Majesty—and the rest of us—must account for the risks. The institutions and ceremonies of royalty are drenched in a millennium of British tradition, a reality which even the joyful song of a gospel choir can only conceal for a few minutes. The fact, therefore, that multiculturalism has come to occupy the attention of the Palace is not just royal goodwill—it’s an existential issue: How to assimilate the symbolic language of one tradition with thousands of others, and avoid a collapse into meaningless oversignification? To Balkanize court ceremonial into a jostling series of discrete ethno-religious traditions would be wholly antithetical to the inclusive myth Charles aims to perpetuate. Only a far higher level of state intervention, particularly in education, to promote the monarchy and its unifying power, has the potential to solve the Emperor’s new woes. Because if Charles wants to remain King or Emperor, it isn’t enough for his subjects to identify with their respective community representatives. They need to identify with the man himself.

New portrait of former Ghanaian President unveiled at Exeter College

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A ceremony was held at Exeter College on the 9th May 2023 to celebrate the unveiling of two portraits of His Excellency John Kufuor, a former President of Ghana and Honorary Fellow of Exeter College, Oxford.

Exeter College hosted a large, day-long ceremony to mark the occasion, at which over eighty guests were in attendance. Alongside artist Naima Aouni, and Kufuor himself, chief guests included His Majesty the King of Ashanti Otumfuo Nana Osei Tutu II, Ghana High Commissioner to the UK His Excellency Papa Owusu-Ankomah, and former UK Cabinet Minister Lord Paul Boateng.

John Kufuor served as the President of Ghana between 2001 and 2009, serving two terms as the country’s head of state. His ascension to the role notably marked the first peaceful and democratic transfer of power in Ghana’s history as an independent nation. His Presidency saw the inception of Ghana’s National Health Insurance Scheme and a foreign policy of ‘economic diplomacy’, which saw Ghana become a broker of peace in regional disputes.

The Rector of the College, Rick Trainor, spoke at the unveiling, highlighting Kufuor’s long career as a statesman and legacy as a democratically-elected leader. He added that the oil portrait of Kufuor in Exeter’s hall will complement the photograph in Cohen Quad in “inspir[ing] high achievement in public service by Exeter’s diverse student population, present and future.”

Aside from his tenure as Ghanaian President, Kufuor had a long career in Ghanaian politics, having first been elected as a Member of Parliament in 1969. He was elected to lead National People’s Party in 1996, a centre-right party which was, at the time, in opposition. Kufuor subsequently led the party to victory in the 2000 Ghanaian elections.

Kufuor was elected as Chairperson of the African Union between 2008 and 2009. He has also received numerous awards, including the Chatham House Prize in 2008 and the World Food Prize in 2011.

Kufuor studied at Lincoln’s Inn, London from 1959, being called to the bar in 1961. Following this, Kufuor matriculated at Oxford as a member of Exeter College in the same year, graduating with a degree in Politics, Philosophy, and Economics in 1964.

The first portrait, a photograph taken in 2016, was formally inaugurated following the delay of the scheduled inauguration ceremony during the pandemic. The photographic piece has been displayed prominently at the College’s Cohen Quad since the site was constructed in 2017.

The second portrait is an oil on canvas, painted by the Belgian-born artist Naima Aouni. Born in 1987, Aouni is a self-taught artist, and was commissioned by a group of Exeter fellows to paint this portrait of Kufuor.

The portrait is due to be installed in the 17th Century dining hall of Exeter College. Following its installation, the painting will hang alongside portraits of past rectors of the College, including Marilyn Butler and Frances Cairncross, during whose tenure Kufuor was selected as an Honorary Fellow of the College in 2002.

Other alumni of the College whose portraits feature in its collection include Honorary Fellow Reeta Chakrabarti, a prominent journalist, and College Fellow Prof Catherine Green, who played a leading role in the creation of the Oxford-AstraZeneca vaccine.

Burnout BBQ — Brisket, wings and hot rods

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There’s something uniquely indulgent for me about American BBQ. It is one of those things that seems almost impossible for restaurants to execute away from the United States. It might be that the ribs are too tough, the wings not tasting quite right, or that the brisket just isn’t smoked the same. If not the food, then the atmosphere is almost impossible to capture with everywhere seeming either tacky or sterile. Burnout BBQ in Summertown, though, is one of the only places I have been in the UK that finds solutions to all those problems. The décor is typically ridiculous, the dishes are meticulously authentic, and the atmosphere is buzzing. This isn’t haute cuisine, it’s over-the-top indulgence and it’s a bloody fun place to spend an evening.

Chatting to the co-founders and owners, Thomas and Malcolm, the key philosophy here is to offer everything American that you could ever dream of in an atmosphere to fit. Things started off during the COVID-19 pandemic as a street food business. The pair took the crazy decision to saw a hot rod in half and serve brisket burgers and other BBQ dishes out of the back. The result was more successful than they ever could have expected and when a chance to buy a permanent site came up, they didn’t hesitate for a second.

The result is an interior that at first glance you might want to discard as tacky and classless. Look closer though, and every last detail is thought out. That car that makes up the bar? 100% real with the seats serving as chairs at one of the booths to prove it. This place is perfectly set up to create a fun and relaxed atmosphere.

That fun and relaxed atmosphere fits the food on offer perfectly. Although the menu is extensive with offerings of everything from burgers to hot dogs and loaded fries, the full experience is only got from the barbecue trays. Available after 5 PM, the sharing tray is £45 for two people and comes with everything you could possibly want.

Sharing tray

The brisket is smoked in-house for nine hours and you can really tell the difference from what you normally get in the UK. Pulled pork is maple smoked and melts in the mouth just as you would want and ribs are appropriately sticky.

Brisket

Burnt ends are there too and soaked to kingdom come in barbecue sauce. Corn, slaw, and beans bring an attempt at healthiness with the strong taste and greasiness that is only really acceptable somewhere like this. Normally, I’d tear it apart along with the onion rings that are far more batter than onion. Really though, you don’t come to Burnout for light dishes and calorie counting.

Wings are the next highlight and there are three different varieties. The honey seasoning was probably the best and there is a good variety in spice across the board. More than enough sauces are on hand at all times too to change things to your liking.

Chilli Cheese fries are quite the dish and were our choice of the loaded options. The house chilli itself is good and the fresh jalapenos balance the creaminess of the melted cheese well. For me though, these were let down by the counterintuitive inevitability of loaded fries in general: they were just too soggy. I passionately believe that the best bit about a fry is just how thin and crispy it is and when doused in meat, cheese, and sauces, that is inevitably lost.

House Salad

Desserts are just as ridiculous as the rest of the menu. The brownie sundae is loaded with brownie pieces, ice cream, cream, Oreos, and all manner of sauces. I don’t ever want to know how many calories are in this but as a sharer, you can’t go far wrong.

Brownie sundae and Biscoff Milkshake

There are big plans going forward for Burnout — listen to the podcast for talk of a new, larger site. Already here, with no more than 30 covers, this is destination dining for people across Oxfordshire and beyond. Going forward though, Thomas and Malcom are thinking bigger. For now, this is undoubtedly the place to go in Oxford for an authentically fun evening of American food. Just be sure not to park too far away — you might not make it back to the car!