Saturday, April 26, 2025
Blog Page 337

Be

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Peel away my shame like burnt skin,

Chip the crystals of hurt out of my heart,

Put a faded hat on my head, and make sure it fits.

Chew on a piece of lavender, wink at a pretty girl.

Stretch and break out of the shackles that are

Holding me to the earth; so long, resentment,

Farewell, bitterness. And finally I draw the arrow

Out from my heel – I pack up my baggage,

Douse it in fuel and light a match. 

Walk away with burning behind my back.

Vault off the ground and onto a horse,

Tap its sides lightly with my spurs, click

My tongue. Throat on fire from whiskey,

Guitar slung over my back. Rodeo flares

Wrapped around my legs and a check

Shirt around my chest. Travelling into

The sunset, a new cowboy ready to ride,

Chewing on a piece of lavender,

Working it round a smile.

Artwork by Rachel Jung.

The Felling of Yggdrasil

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Worlds branch off like capillaries

From an oaken aorta.

Rustle of emeralds

Wreathed in drifting clouds.

I think of Tolkien’s son’s bedroom,

Dreams swimming through the window pane.

How many nights I might have spent opposite,

Chatting on street corners,

Watching lamplight blur in puddles,

Lost gems in overflowing storm drains.

All those pathways closed off:

Axe straight to the trunk,

Leaves twinkling out.

How many nights have been washed away?

Image Credit: Katie Kirkpatrick.

Ten Days Troilus Waits for Cressida

Behind the heat-devils that dance on Trojan sands, 

A silver crescent wavers. 

It looks out of place on the placid blue 

Like a lone fish scale, flicked and floating 

On saltwater – suspended for a moment – 

Before it sinks,  

Swallowed by sea, 

And blurs to nothing in its depths.  

 

From these high white walls I hear 

The shriek of an owl. The violence

Of its call astounds:

A night-born banshee’s wail  

That shatters still air into slivers 

Cutting at the belly of the night.  

Above me, the Milky wheel turns round and round, 

Spinning Fortune’s golden thread  

Into Fate’s mouth. 

Her iron teeth are ready to bite  

When Fury commands,  

And between the stars,  

Venus descends in silent harmony 

While Mars blots the sky with red. 

As Phoebus wakes, 

Spreading rays low and long  

From the lazy lanterns of his chariot, 

Each pillar of the temple is bathed 

In rosy light. It weaves 

A net of rainbows from the dewdrops 

Of their night-sweat.  

That cold, Palladian marble  

Is fire-dyed, its rivulets 

Awash with a toil  

Of gleam and shadow.  

But the acanthine curves  

Are overwrought.  

The colonnades shift with figures  

Too lost to be seen. 

Their limbs are stone, 

Their bodies ice.  

The sunrise freezes at their touch. 

 

In the midst of it all, 

Pallas Athena waits; 

She is waiting for the arms  

That must drag her out of Troy.

And all the statues are weeping,

For in the garden beneath the wall, 

A swallow sings of

The blood that swells in its breast.

 

And all the statues are weeping, 

For in the garden, under the ivy,  

A nightingale chants 

That it will always remain 

Misunderstood. 

Artwork by Rachel Jung.

‘Because I shall write the history’: The National Trust’s uphill battle to acknowledge colonialism

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CW: violence, colonialism, racism.

By the time that Winston Churchill was gloating at the 1943 Tehran Conference that “history will judge us kindly…because I shall write the history,” Bengali children were eating grass, begging for the starchy water in which rice had been boiled, or being thrown into wells by their desperate parents to avoid them dying of starvation. This was the stark reality of the 1943 famine in Bengal, which killed up to 3 million people; many historians have pointed to the decisions of Churchill’s wartime cabinet as exacerbating the disaster, as they failed to heed multiple warnings that extensive exports from India could result in famine. Churchill himself was quoted as blaming the famine on the fact Indians were “breeding like rabbits”, and that “the starvation of anyhow underfed Bengalis is less serious than that of sturdy Greeks.” This narrative blamed the starved people for their own starvation, and denied any responsibility of his own government in perpetuating this atrocity. Yet Churchill’s statement at Tehran is true; the influence of his version of history retains its hold today, as critics rail against the National Trust’s recent attempts to investigate the links of various properties with colonialism. These endeavours have been accused of ‘attacking Englishness’, of ‘smearing’ historical figures, and of ‘indoctrinating children’. 

September 2020 saw the start of the row, with the publication of the Trust’s Connections between Colonialism and Properties now in the Care of the National Trust, Including Links With Historic Slavery report, which head curator Dr Sally-Anne Huxtable says was compiled to acknowledge the origins of many of the Trust’s properties in slavery and colonialism, as “only by honestly and openly acknowledging and sharing those stories can we do justice to the true complexity of past, present and future, and the sometimes-uncomfortable role that Britain, and Britons, have played in global history since the sixteenth century or even earlier.” The report revealed that Powis Castle in Wales, for example, is imbricated in Robert Clive’s colonising and looting activities in India. Today the property still holds around 1,000 items from the amalgamated collections of Robert and his son Edward, including statues of Hindu gods, weapons and ceremonial armour from India and East Asia, as well as a gold tiger’s head finial taken from the throne of Tipu Sultan, who had been murdered while defending his fort of Seringapatam – every Briton that took part in that siege was awarded a medal by the Governor-General of India, the design showing “the British Lion subduing the Tiger, the emblem of Tippoo Sultan’s Government.”

Controversy arose when, as part of the Trust’s attempt to “challenge the familiar, received histories, which both exclude the vital role that people of colour have played in our national story and overlook the central role that the oppression and violence of the slave trade and the legacies of colonialism have played in the making of modern Britain”, Winston Churchill’s former home, Chartwell, was included on the list of investigated properties. Rudyard Kipling – the creator of many wholesome family favourites, such as ‘The Man Who Would Be King’ where white British men become gods and kings of Kafiristan – had his family home ‘Bateman’s’ also included. This prompted a furious response, as many rose to ‘defend’ the former prime minister and author. The Daily Mail described the list as a “BLM-inspired list of shame” and Robert Clive as a man who merely “played a key role in Britain’s colonial dominance in India and … amassed a vast collection of Indian artefacts”. Anne Widdecombe announced she would be cancelling her membership because she was “tired of these sorts of woke games being played”, and historian Andrew Roberts wrote that “These ahistorical and highly prejudiced attacks on Churchill seem to be part of an attempt to strip Britain of a heroic narrative rooted in the most glorious moments of her past.” Current Culture Secretary Oliver Dowden similarly stated that the National Trust should focus on ‘preserving and protecting’, as its depiction of Churchill would “surprise and disappoint people.”

Yet it is essential to consider what the report itself actually said. It only mentions Churchill twice: once to say “Churchill…served as Secretary of State for the Colonies from 1921 to 1922. He was Prime Minister during the devastating Bengal Famine of 1943, the British response to which has been heavily criticised. Churchill opposed the Government of India Act in 1935, which granted India a degree of self governance.” and again to mention his family home, writing “Chartwell was the family home of Sir Winston Churchill…Leading historians, such as Robert Rhodes James, comment that Churchill lived an ‘exceptionally long, complex, and controversial life’. He… helped to draft the Anglo-Irish Treaty at the time of the creation of the Irish Free State.” All of these statements are factually accurate – those criticising the report as ‘smearing’ ought to take it up with Churchill. Despite Tarnya Cooper, the Trust’s curatorial and collections director, stating that “We are not doing anything more than present the historical facts and data,” the National Trust’s attempt to simply avoid censorship is perceived as a threat by those who are more interested in following the traditional heroic narrative of British imperialism, obscuring a reality of millions of deaths.

Such criticisms are arguably grounded in warped perspectives of British imperialism itself, epitomised by Andrew Roberts’ description of the British Empire as “overall a noble endeavour that for the vast majority of time brought great benefits for most of its native inhabitants” and points to “Britain’s mutually beneficial relationship with her colonies”. The facts somewhat challenge this ‘mutually beneficial’ picture: Britain obtained £8 billion in cash and materials from India, whilst during the period of British occupation, India’s share of the world economy dropped from 23% to just over 3%; Britain demanded around £18 million in taxation per year from 1765-1815, while India got land taxes averaging 80-90% of the rental; British civil servants got their highest paid source of employment in India, which India had to fund. The sinister myth of mutual equal benefit is one long debunked – railways, a common example of a ‘benefit’ brought to India by the British, were designed to transport  Indian exports predominantly to Britain (like the 70,000 tonnes of rice exported from India between January and July 1943, even as famine set in and victims subsisted on 400 calories a day from government-run relief centres). Railways in India were designed and built for British use and profit. The myth of the British Empire as a benevolent force is a dangerous, but persistent, falsehood  – YouGov in 2019 reported that 32% of the British public thought that the empire was something to be proud of, rather than ashamed of; 33% thought it left colonies better off and 27% said they would like it if Britain still had an empire. 

The debate was ignited again in December and into January over Colonial Countryside: National Trust Houses Reinterpreted’, another National Trust project, this time working with primary school children to teach them about various sites linked to colonial and slave trade history. The children at Colmore Primary in Birmingham, for example, wrote poems about their findings at Charlecote Park in Warwickshire. One child wrote about a sword stolen during the first war of Indian independence – “The sword is jewelled, the sword is stolen, but from who? The answer is: the Indians. This strong sword was used to fight for freedom, the freedom sword, the freedom sword.”

This educational focus of new National Trust projects, despite suggestions to the contrary, is one that is desired by the public: a recent poll by Policy Exchange found that 76% of people thought the National Trust should be doing more to educate visitors on histories of slavery and colonialism, and in 2020 a petition that the government should ‘Teach Britain’s colonial past as part of the UK’s compulsory curriculum’ gathered 268,772 signatures. Many have welcomed the Trust’s recent efforts, but argue that they have not gone far enough in addressing historical realities; Catherine Bennett has suggested that “you could see this as a long-overdue and welcome rebalancing,” which “might perhaps have benefited from some more detail,”. Yet as long as these projects remain flashpoints in Britain’s escalated ‘culture war’, more extensive research will be hard-won. Nesrine Malik points to how rightwing politics benefit from such controversy “by fostering a sense of threat, a fantasy that something profoundly pure and British is constantly at risk of extinction.” The issue of the National Trust’s desire to educate remains embroiled in political conflicts over ‘British identity’, despite the evidence which shows that there is demand for the National Trust not only to continue its educational projects, but to engage in even more thorough investigation. 

The major question that arises from recent criticisms of The National Trust, aside from ‘did anyone actually read the report?’ or ‘does anyone know what the word ‘smear’ means?’ is this: how does a falsehood of glory, based on the suffering of millions, match with our current aspirations for education, understanding and diversity? It doesn’t, and shouldn’t. As long as British identity rests on the censorship of our own history to uphold a false narrative built on subjugation, we are no better than those who chant ‘Make America Great Again’. British people can be proud of the sacrifices they made in World War 2 to defeat fascism (which they achieved alongside 2.5 million Indian soldiers, the largest volunteer army in history) without turning a blind eye to Churchill’s role in imperialism, and the vicious consequences that this inflicted. The National Trust is not ‘rewriting’ history, but rectifying a false narrative based on notions of white, British superiority. The Trust itself has a long way to go in its research, and uncovering the histories of its properties. But these projects mark an important first step toward a telling of British history in which Churchill is an impactful figure, but not its most privileged author.  

Artwork by Rachel Jung.

University updates guidance for Easter vacation travel

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Oxford University has provided further guidance to students, after new government legislation provided a travel exemption for students “for the purposes of vacation”.

Previously, students who returned to Oxford for Hilary term were advised they would need to remain in University accommodation over the Easter vacation unless they had a legal exemption from travel restrictions. The new legislation allows students to travel “back and forth between their university accommodation and their home address” once.

In an email sent to students, the University said that the decision to leave their term time address is one for “students to take based on their individual circumstances”. However, the Government still advises that students remain in their term time accommodation “where possible”.

International students will be able to travel home and return for the beginning for Trinity term. However, because the UK Government is advising against travel to countries outside the UK, the University is advising international students to not to leave the country for the vacation.

Students are advised to follow the Government’s “safer travel guidance” if they do decide to travel home. They are also advised to take a lateral-flow test, which will be provided by colleges, on the day before or the day they depart. If the test comes back positive, students will need to take a confirmatory PCR test and self isolate until they receive their results. Students who test positive for COVID-19 from a PCR test will have to isolate in Oxford for ten days.

The Student Union responded to the University’s update, saying: “We are pleased to see the University has provided an update on Easter Vacation plans. We encourage you to read the update carefully and to make use of the LFD testing available. We would like to thank the collegiate University for their prompt response on this issue following the updated government guidance on Monday (8/3/21). We remain committed to working with University staff and student leaders to secure the best possible experience for students.

“We welcome the government’s exemption which has added for students during the Easter vacation following national lobbying from students and student unions across the country. However, it is disappointing that yet again students remain an afterthought for this government and we stand in solidarity with you at what continues to be a challenging time.”

The Sabbatical Officers also encouraged students to contact them for further advice, and to apply for financial assistance if needed.

Further information on the University’s COVID-19 guidance can be found here.

Image: Darya Tayfana via unsplash.com.

“Not just a headache” – what migraines feel like and their impact

According to the NHS, a migraine is usually identified by a moderate or severe throbbing pain on one side of the head. It is a complex condition with a wide variety of symptoms, including sensitivities to light or sound. It is a common health condition, with 1 in 5 women and 1 in 15 men affected in the UK. 

It is also a very disabling one: globally, migraine is ranked as the seventh most disabling of all diseases, being responsible for 2.9% of all years of life lost to disability. The WHO classifies severe continuous migraine as among the most disabling illnesses, in the same level of disability as dementia, quadriplegia and active psychosis – rated higher even than blindness. The financial burden of migraine on the UK economy is conservatively estimated at £3.42 billion per year. Yet research into migraines is the least publicly funded of all neurological illnesses relative to the economic impact. 

To better understand the condition and what it feels like, we interviewed four Oxford students to hear about their migraine experiences. Their answers show just how diverse each experience of migraine is, although they are of course not representative of the disease as a whole.

Phases of a migraine attack 

Migraine attacks are often split into four phases, classified as prodrome, aura, headache, and postrome. However, there is not one “normal” migraine attack. Some people experience only one or a few of the phases, or experience overlap.

The prodrome, also known as the “pre-headache” is the first phase of the attack. It can begin up to 48 hours before the others and often acts as a warning sign that an attack is coming. The symptoms can be quite unusual – the most common ones are changes in energy levels (both hyperactivity or fatigue), changes in mood, sensitivity to either light or sound, neck pain and stomach issues such as constipation or diarrhea. Around 80 percent of migraine sufferers experience this phase.

The second phase is the aura, which manifests itself through a change in senses. It commonly lasts an hour and can overlap with the prodrome and the headache phase. Sight changes are the most common symptom; one of the students interviewed reports seeing “weird, fuzzy things” and losing sight in one eye. Seeing stars or blurred vision are also common. Other senses can be affected as well, with another student reporting numbness in their feet, as well as vertigo so bad they fell over. Others also experience changes in hearing such as tinnitus.  Around a quarter of migraine sufferers experience this phase. Some only experience the aura without the other phases, which is called a “silent headache”.

Phases of a Migraine. Image Credit: Migraine Buddy

The third phase is the most well-known: the migraine headache. It can last from 4 to 72 hours, and is generally characterised through a pulsing or throbbing pain in one side of the head. Although the level of pain varies, it can be severe, unbearable and completely debilitating, with over-the-counter medication like ibuprofen or paracetamol usually not being enough. “I remember thinking I was done for” was Rowan’s response, telling us that she had been unable to get a glass of water and had received codeine in the hospital at 12 years old. Frequently, this is coupled with nausea and vomiting, as well as vertigo. 

The final phase is the postdrome – aptly called a “migraine hangover” by the tracking app Migraine Buddy – in which many people feel drained and exhausted, although some report euphoric moods. “Being in that much pain is just exhausting”, Megan told us, while another student mentioned that she was in bed for two days after the headache. 

Treatment and triggers

Migraines are thought to be the result of abnormal brain activity. The causes of this activity remain unclear, but in many cases there is a genetic connection. Rowan told us that both her grandmothers as well as her mother suffered from migraines.

There is no cure for migraines, yet there are a number of symptom-relieving medications. Common medication includes over-the counter painkillers, such as aspirin or ibuprofen. A migraine specific class of drugs called triptans works by using Serotonin to constrict dilated blood vessels. However, triptans have strong instant side effects, and can lead to dizziness and drowsiness. Preventative treatments may help the frequency of migraines. They include medications such as antidepressants, beta-blockers and new specialized CGRP pathway monoclonal antibodies.

Many migraine sufferers also try to avoid “triggers” – factors which increase the likelihood of a migraine attack. Emotional and physical triggers are common. Rowan described tiredness and stress increasing the likelihood of an attack, and noted getting more attacks “when in Oxford”. Medication, eating habits and environmental surroundings can also be a trigger. Trudy reported not having been allowed on the combined contraceptive pill due to her migraine condition, while Michael suspected his eating and sleeping habits may increase his migraine frequency. Alcohol, cheese (casein) and coffee (caffeine) are some of the most common triggers. Megan reported “noise and light sensitivity” as well as “probably [getting] triggered” when in “crowded spaces”. 

Impact on personal and academic life

The impact of migraines on people’s lives are as diverse as the palette of symptoms. Trudy told us she doesn’t take golden hour selfies to avoid specific light sensitivity triggers. Megan shared the impact of migraines on her work routine, saying that while “last year, [she] could pull all-nighters for an essay” she now finds that more than six hours of work lead her to “crash the following day”. Rowan described the uncomfortable condition of never knowing when one will have an attack. Academically, it is “hard to take two days out … without notice” and personally, she stated that “the anxiety is notable”.

COVID-19 restrictions have had a net negative impact on those suffering from migraines, finds a study published in The Journal of Headache and Pain, due to difficulty in getting access to medications and doctors as well as increases in stress. A study conducted by migraine buddy over 14 500 of its users found over 70% to have secondary health conditions, with 82% reporting depression, and 50% reporting anxiety. Isolation, higher stress levels and uncertainty caused by the pandemic can all negatively impact these conditions.

For the students we talked to, the impact has been varied. “The amount of screen-time is really bad” Megan told us, “But there’s no way I can cut it out”. Michael has only had migraines since the start of the pandemic, and wondered if “maybe it’s got something to do with it?” But restrictions also have a psychological impact. One student shared how isolation can make physical symptoms feel worse.

We asked the students what they would like others to know about migraines. All of them responded saying that migraines are not just headaches. Quite aptly, Michael said “a headache is just one symptom of it”. Megan wished there was more awareness for the severity of migraines. She shared “friends often just think “pop a few paracetamol, it will be alright’” when in fact, “[they] utterly wipe you out”. On days with an attack, she told us, it’s best not to assume how one can help, but simply to ask. For anyone seeking to help sufferers, communication is key – and as Megan notes it is often enough “to be there and be supportive”.

Writing a Life: Overseeing the Evolution of Biography

Dame Hermione is a British biographer, academic and literary critic, formerly President of Wolfson College, Oxford, and Goldsmiths’ Professor of English Literature at the University. A fellow of the British Academy and Royal Society of Literature, Lee has written numerous acclaimed biographies—most notably her major 1996 biography of Virginia Woolf, some nine-hundred pages to which Lee dedicated five years of her career. But is the biography dying? Lee thinks not—it has always been a ‘mongrel genre’, undergoing numerous adolescent shifts before finding its shape, and accepted as a respectable form only in the past few decades—with the help of Lee herself, who first included biographies on Oxford’s English syllabus, to some hesitance. 

It’s dusk when I log in to Zoom and wait for the notification: Hermione Lee has now entered the waiting room. It’s depressingly virtually familiar by this point. I’m sat near a radiator and get up to open the window so that I’m not charring medium-rare as we talk life-writing. With that usual ten-second delay between audio and video we’re all accustomed to by now, Lee appears; is she sat in a kitchen? I see a white wall and big glass doors—perhaps I expected her to be sitting in front of a bookshelf—hers would be from floor to ceiling and all the spines broken (as if to say, these books are not for show!) I was hoping to be nosy. ‘We’ve all done that thing as I’m doing now,’ she says, ‘of looking at the pictures behind the person you’re talking to and wondering, oh, I wonder what that says about their character…’

Biography owes much to Lee, who worked to credit the genre when she first began life-writing in the late 80s. Her career having developed alongside the fluctuating genre since its relative infancy, I begin by asking what the role of biography is in a time where individual identity is uniquely sociopolitical: ‘Different kinds of people are being biographised now than they might have been before […] We are all becoming acutely aware of groups of people who haven’t been sufficiently written about in the past.’ She pulls up a book from off-screen and holds it to the camera: this ‘extraordinary’ book which Lee recently read is a memoir by writer Ta-Nehisi Coates about the symbolism and realities of being Black in the US, called Between The World and Me. Lee says it was the recent Black Lives Matter protests which alerted her to the work. The increasing advocacy for representation has extended to the literary sphere, she tells me: more than they had done before, biographies require a sympathetic rendering of a person’s life story, hence demand a writer who can understand their subject and the lived experience which defined them. ‘Supposing I set out to write a biography of Coates—it would be out of the question. Out of the question, and for good reason […] I think the matching of writer and subject is having to be done more and more carefully.’  

It goes without saying that the significance of identity is fundamental to biography. Yet this is perhaps one thing in the analogue times past—but in an age of unique self-representation, the role of social media as a tool of pretence and unchecked self-aggrandisement casts a shadow on the biographies of coming years. Unacademic as it feels to ask an Oxford don, could an individual’s Instagram posts or YouTube vlogs make for respectable study of a person’s life? ‘The crucial question for biography in the future is going to be how it is going to relate to the existence of social media, not least simply in the technical side—the way in which people communicate is much more by email, or on Facebook or WhatsApp now than it has been.’ Richard Ovenden, the Bodley’s Librarian, recently published a book which discusses how our digital selves are becoming part of archives—how they’re edited and processed. Preserved for posterity on floppy disks or hard drives… ‘techniques are evolving to deal with that, although there is, of course, the terrible problem of the huge amount of material for any biographer that this is going to raise.’ Speaking of her latest subject, the revered playwright Tom Stoppard, Lee knows very well that ‘there are a million texts to his friends and colleagues that I will not have seen. And in a way, one wouldn’t almost want to see them, because there would be just so much of that material.’ A text organising coffee or email about the new kitchen installation doesn’t make for the most interesting study. Perhaps that which is written down retains the most biographical protein.  

Picking up another book—this one written by her step-daughter, Josie Barnard, a professor at De Montfort University—she reads a line: ‘It is necessary on social media to perform a version of the self, or even several versions of the self, all of which should ideally be authentic […] decide what kind of radical self you might like to present.’ The evident paradox of social media—namely Instagram—is the necessary tension between a sincerity of the self and the desire to impress, or to be “liked” (Lee mimes air quotes). She assures me that she herself does not use social media. ‘A biographer’s job is always to work out the relationship between performance and some authentic inner self. I think what’s happening with social media is that it’s getting much, much harder to tell the difference.’ There is something to be said of that feeling of permanence, preserving a party or newly-curated outfit made from vintage shop treasures on your colour-coded profile. ‘It seems to me that any lived life—yours or mine—is partly private and interior. But it’s also partly a performance.’ Perhaps that Kim Kardashian book of selfies represents the capitalisation of visual culture and commodification of the synthetic self in a new digital age which she heralded… Or maybe it’s just another coffee table book (those things for people who like pictures, not words). 

Confined to our houses and apartments and Tuscan villas (for the lucky few), we have all been thinking more about the relationship between interior and exterior—of the world, of ourselves… Lee perceives a parallel between our collective response to the virus and the essence of life-writing: ‘When Covid began back in March and April, you heard a lot of people saying, finally, the whole world is in the same boat. For a while, one of the characteristics of this crisis seemed to be that we were all in it together. And as it continued, that became less and less true […] Biography is always poised between asking what it’s like to feel like other people are asking what it’s like to be special and different.’ Suddenly without the distraction of the social interaction we have always relied on, an inwardness is inevitable: yet the embodiment of catastrophe—2020—kept us simultaneously transfixed to the global calamity on our screens, the wide world feeling distant behind the glaze of our bedroom windows. Coincidentally, Lee released a collaborative book on the significance of artists and writers’ houses, the launch held a week or so before that first March lockdown (before we knew it would be called the first): ‘People started to read the book, and of course by then they were stuck in their homes.’ An immersive reading experience. ‘We feel that you can write about someone’s house and the things in someone’s house and as a way of writing biography.’ She recalls a poignant moment when Virginia Woolf returned to one of the houses of her childhood just after the family had moved out, seeing the marks on the wall where all the pictures had hung. 

Lee insists that she could only ever write literary biography. I ask if she could ever adventure with an artist or  performer—‘I’m very interested in them but I don’t think I have the equipment to write about them.’ Arriving at life-writing after a career of scholarship and literary criticism, it was her interest in the interplay between a life and a person’s work which first set her on a biographical course. ‘What I want to do is work out how the life turned into this work. That’s really all I do. So, I would be no good writing about a mountaineer, or a mathematician, because I don’t understand—I wouldn’t have the first clue as to how everyday life gets turned into a product.’ Writing the life of Edith Wharton (Subject No. 5), Lee became very interested in Italian villas and garden design; with Tom Stoppard (Subject No. 7), she entered the theatrical realm (which was new to her), enjoying ‘the nuts and bolts of productions and rehearsals’. It sounds a little like meeting guests at a supper party and choosing to focus on the interesting bits about each one. 

But I wonder if the task ever feels like mystery work? She insists that it’s grounded in the ‘source material’, which sounds a little less exciting than the scandalous whisperings I might have been imagining. Though she tells me there are always findings which change her sense of the narrative: ‘When you start working on someone, I feel a kind of a sort of forcefield builds up so that things kind of come at you that you wouldn’t otherwise have found. I remember very vividly finding a description of Edith Wharton on her deathbed in the few hours after she died […] which I found in the Bernard Berenson archive in Florence, in a sort of ramshackle collection of letters where I would never have expected to find something like it.’ There seems to be a lot of going round and speaking with family and friends and associates—many cups of tea. During the writing of her most recent biography, Stoppard suddenly gave Lee—a few years into the process—a collection of his letters written weekly to his mother between the 1940s and her death in 1996. Moreover, in the six years it took her to write the book, Stoppard inevitably continued writing—new plays, new productions… His writing of Leopoldstadt, the remarkable (autobiographical) story of a Jewish exile from Nazi-occupied Czechoslovakia to Singapore and then India, required a whole new chapter to be added. Lee describes this as an ‘extraordinary living circle’, the existence of her subject swirling about as she studied them. Though I can see that it takes a particularly devoted academic mind for this sort of thing—I can’t imagine almost finishing a tutorial essay, only for the books to come to life and reveal whole new scenes or characters—shooting holes in my (already dubious) conclusions.  

‘I’m not the kind of person who puts myself into to the narrative, because I don’t enjoy doing that. Although I do tend to make a sort of Hitchcockian appearance on the last page… to just admit that I was there the whole time.’ Spending years living with her subjects, I question whether it’s hard to distance oneself after coming to feel as though you know the person. Lee insists that there can never be such a thing as an absolutely objective biography: ‘From your race, your class, your age, your gender, your education, your political inclinations, you know—you may keep them out of the story, but they’re there all the time you’re writing.’ Lee always remains conscious that it’s not a marriage but a job—a sort of mixture of being a detective and a house builder and a psychoanalyst.’

In a serendipitous return to our initial discussion, I ask how Lee anticipates biography’s development in years to come. She describes the increasingly outlandish approaches and ‘adventurous shapes’ taken, from a life of Shakespeare written as just one year of his life, or turning a life around and starting at the end, or even taking just one day in a person’s life. When Virginia Woolf endeavoured to write her life of Roger Fry, she thought of writing it may be with specific scenes rather than the whole thing or having different people write a group biography about him. ‘In the 1930s, that would have seemed very daring, though would apparently be fairly acceptably nowadays’. I get to thinking that, if anyone should have to write my life, I’d want them to take the sensible beginning-to-end approach—though remind myself that this is something I’ll never have to worry about.

Image Credit: John Cairns

Self-Care: A Capitalist Conspiracy?

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In these turbulent times, self-care is more important than ever. But when the simple act of caring for oneself becomes intertwined with capitalist enterprise, spending time on the self also means spending money. We are inundated with adverts for self-care products on our social media feeds, and consumer culture has cultivated an association of self-care with beauty, wealth and commodities. Self-care is no longer simple, or completely about the self. 

The term ‘self-care’ dates back to antiquity, with legendary Greek philosopher Socrates credited as founding the movement; the notion of self-care underwent a major revival in the 1980s, but never before has the industry been worth so much both to the self and to companies’ pockets. Lockdown has established self-care as a cultural phenomenon – according to IRI Worldwide, in 2020 the industry’s worth boomed to $450 billion, increasing from $10 billion in 2014. Research from The Body Shop found that in the UK, £3 billion a month is spent on our self-care, an average of £49.20 per person. 

A capitalist society works in opposition with self-care. We are encouraged to work hard, often to the point of burnout, and spend more time working than relaxing, both of which make indulging in ‘calming’ products all the more necessary and desirable. Self-care has become synonymous with the trope “treat yourself,” “you” being the wealthy consumer who can afford to spend £50 on a sandalwood candle. What originated as the simple deed of looking after ourselves emotionally and physically has been reduced to a commercialised act. An American survey conducted in 2019 by the Samueli Foundation underscored the importance of self-care, with 85% of physicians agreeing that practicing self-care is “very important” –  but the research also found that 44% believed that self-care is only possible for those with enough time, whilst 35% believed it is only possible for those with enough money.

A google search of “self-care products” churns out over 3 billion results, with many products labelled as “essential” – these range from salted caramel chocolate to sauna blankets and £250 Egyptian cotton sheets. Self-care is often misconstrued as something which must be Instagram-worthy: extravagant at-home spa evenings or multi-coloured bubble baths. But really, inner peace can be achieved without spending a penny – the only real cost of self-care is time. Setting aside solid chunks of time for gardening, yoga, reading, meditation, or a bath is easier said than done, but air is cheap and allowing yourself to breath and your mind to focus is no harm. Either way, if it doesn’t work, at least you won’t be out of pocket!

To dismantle our skewed perception of self-care, we must reimagine what it means to care for ourselves. It’s something we can do for ourselves, by ourselves, without designer candles and high thread count sheets. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t splurge on a pillow spray or a face mask- you just shouldn’t feel you have to. It’s a common misconception that self-care is all about being selfish. It’s not. Even the OED tells us that self-care as defined as “self-interested behaviour” is “now rare” – and in an essay entitled Technologies of the Self, French philosopher Michel Foucault argued that looking after oneself is a kind of “vigilance”, and not a form of narcissism. But who’s to say that we shouldn’t be selfish now and then? If we don’t carve out time for ourselves, no one else will. 

My idea of self-care (introduced to me by Elizabeth Gilbert in her novel Eat Pray Love) is inspired by the beautiful Italian phrase “dolce far niente”, which means ‘the sweetness of doing nothing’. This seems a strange concept for many of us in this world of hectic productivity, but a blissful ideal, if we could only achieve it. It’s actually the opposite of doing nothing- it’s the state of just being. There’s nothing more caring we could do for ourselves than to just be, free from stress and demands, and from the guilt of doing nothing at all. Investing in ourselves doesn’t have to be a financial transaction; but if the temptation of self-care consumerism becomes too much, do as the Italians do – nothing. 

Artwork by Rachel Jung

Where Winx went wrong

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There’s nothing like a remake to get fans of the original riled up. The upcoming Netflix series Fate: The Winx Saga, a live-action reimagining of kids’ cartoon Winx Club has been no exception. 

For those who did not have the pleasure of watching Winx Club growing up, let me explain. Winx Club was the story of an ensemble of six fairies (Bloom, Stella, Flora, Techna, Musa, and Aisha), following their trials and tribulations learning magic at their school for fairies and fighting enemies. 

Fashion was central to Winx Club. The first sentence of the Nickelodeon synopsis I found references ‘six fashion-forward best friends’. Each new series came with an outfit redesign, earned by the fairies as they became more powerful. Videos of the transformations of the fairies from their ‘normal’ outfits into their Winx regalia have millions of views on YouTube. It was the section you wanted to see, the culmination of every season’s hard work; their big transformation just in time to face the villain. Fans had strong opinions on these outfits: have a look at the comment section of any YouTube clip and you’ll see comments comparing their outfits to previous iterations and debating their favourites.

With this in mind, it’s not hard to see why fans of the original were not satisfied by the Netflix remake. Not only is it divergent from the original series both in tone (now darkly lit and serious) and character (suddenly everyone is an awful lot snarkier), but it has also paid no attention to the Winx’s outfits. No one appears to transform or gain outfits of any kind. To quote the main character in the remake, “I’m just kinda bummed I didn’t see a single pair of wings.” Me too, Bloom, me too. We are eventually treated to a single pair of CGI fire wings, but it reads more Balrog than Tinkerbell.

The characters’ iconic colour schemes have also been changed. Bloom is inexplicably dressed in red now instead of her typical light blue. The casting also leaves something to be desired, to say nothing of the very valid accusations of white washing. The actor playing Stella is the only one to have captured the look and spirit of her original, although even she hasn’t escaped the snarky virus entirely. 

Given that the show aired primarily in the mid to late 2000s and this is presumably the audience that the Netflix remake is trying to appeal to, who are now grown up with slightly more adult tastes, you can understand the desire to go darker and grittier. However, in doing so they have lost the magic of their source material. 

This may seem like a fuss over nothing. Winx Club may appear just like any other standard cartoon about magic, owing a large creative debt to Harry Potter among others. But in fact Winx Club was something different. It was so unashamedly feminine, with a crew of six active female protagonists forming the ‘club’– how many other shows at the time could boast that? It was also hugely successful, rating top of its channel in viewership almost everywhere it was syndicated. 38.5 million people across nine countries watched the series in the just first quarter of 2012. And it wasn’t just watched by girls, despite being targeted at them. The gender mix of Winx Club’s audience was nearly equal across the first three seasons.

Fashion was integral to this. Each character had a signature colour and style which matched her personality. It was also not only about vanity. The characters gained their fairy outfits as a reward for self-sacrifice and loyalty. The show itself was largely themed around friendship and kindness. 

Enjoying shows so bright, colourful, and most importantly unashamedly feminine are rare, successful ones even rarer. In removing those features of their remake, Netflix has arguably done a disservice to the important message that women can both be girly and strong, that being either does not require a rejection of the other like we so often see in ‘girl boss’ Hollywood characters.

I’m sure that Winx Fate: The Winx Saga is probably a perfectly acceptable generic action series. But in ignoring the fashion of Winx Club, the creators did not even attempt to understand what fans loved and what made it special. And if the creators did not intend to capture some of the spirit of Winx Club, then why even call it Winx? 

Art by Emma Hewlett

Depop photo-op: #y2k edition

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Photographer: Laetitia Dewavrin

Models: Rebeka Shipkolye and Jess Curry