Wednesday, May 7, 2025
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Mertonian U-Turn: college changes its policy on trans intersectionality

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Merton college has made a substantial U-Turn on its policy surrounding an upcoming discussion of “Perspectives on trans intersectionality”.

On Wednesday, the College withdrew a publicly available Code of Conduct for their “Equality Conversation 2020 Seminar”, which asked all attendees to “[be] respectful of all gender identities; avoid deliberately misgendering the speakers or other attendees (although it’s okay to make a mistake, apologise and move on); refrain from using language or putting forward views intended to undermine the validity of trans and gender diverse identities”, specifying that “By booking a ticket for the Equality Conversation you are agreeing to act in accordance with this code of conduct. ”

It was replaced with a statement outlining the college’s stance on academic freedoms and discrimination: “The University and College prioritise the protection both of academic freedom and of their members from unlawful discrimination.

“We seek to foster a culture of robust expression of opinion and debate that does not tolerate any form of harassment or victimisation.

“We and the University are committed to fostering an inclusive, diverse environment and to ensuring that all our staff and students, including LGBTQ members of the community, are able to thrive and realise their potential.”

The statement went on to say that the College wants to foster an “inclusive culture and a workplace” as well as a learning environment that “prizes academic freedom while being free from discrimination, harassment or victimisation”.

According to Merton College, the seminar “exists to enhance understanding of equality and diversity through constructive discussion”. Speakers at the seminar include Freddy McConnel, a transgender man, famous for his attempt to make his child the first with no legal father. Also speaking are Clara Barker (chair of the LGBT+ advisory group to Oxford University), and Sabah Choudrey (co-founder of Trans Pride Brighton).

Various academics had commented on the original Code of Conduct, with Oxford Professor Selina Todd describing it as a “dangerous precedent” that had left her “stunned”. She went on to say “I’m delighted that Merton College has upheld freedom of speech and the right to debate in accordance with College and University policy.”

Similarly, Professor Kathleen Stocker, a philosopher from Sussex University and self-described “gender critical” academic, responded to Merton’s decision, telling press “I’m really glad Oxford has responded so quickly to make sure the value of academic freedom is upheld, and legal duty complied with.

“If I give a talk criticising the idea of an inner feeling of gender identity, I expect the audience to be able to disagree – the same should apply to academic events supportive of the idea of gender identity.”

On the 21st January, Stock tweeted the following about the Code of Conduct “another day, another draconian attempt to suppress gendercritical thought at a British Uni – this time @UniofOxford no less. This is “Perspectives on Trans Intersectionality” at University of Oxford. Note in particular last two lines, as conditions of attendance / participation.”

Previous to this incident, the Sussex professor was part of a dispute with Oxford University Press, as she claimed in a separate tweet in December:

“Just been told that Oxford University Press (USA) dropped entire book of interviews with women in philosophy, after Holly Lawford-Smith & I were proposed as included in it. Our inclusion was judged “problematic”. This after Kate Manne withdrew for same reason. More when I know it”.

The book, Philosophy at 3:AM, was to be the latest in a series written by Richard Marshall, a freelance education consultant.

In response to dropping the book Oxford University Press stated, “Our editors consider a wide range of factors when reviewing the many hundreds of proposals we receive each year, to help us to decide whether or not we publish something. In this specific case, the submission was a collection of interviews—a format that we have found increasingly challenging to publish successfully in recent years. We also felt this contribution didn’t align to the other contributions for this publication, and so suggested other publishers where it could be a better fit.”

In contrast to Stock’s tweet, however, OUP does say “Scholarly integrity lies at the heart of OUP’s mission. We do not shy away from publishing works that could generate controversy or result in negative publicity.”

Further to this the company emphasises that “It’s worth noting that the book had not been accepted and was still at the proposal stage so was not dropped or abandoned while under contract in the publication process.”

Resignations at Academy following Ofsted inspection

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The headteacher and governors of the Oxford Academy have resigned following the publication of an Ofsted Report which rated the School ‘inadequate.’

An Interim Advisory Board (IAB) has been put in place to replace recently departed staff. Andy Hardy, the now former headteacher of the Academy who had been in position since September 2018, left the school on December 31 due to ‘personal circumstances.’

Members of the governing board resigned explicitly over the Ofsted rating and the School being placed on special measures.

The Report, highlighting safety concerns for pupils at the School, stated: “Pupils do not get a good deal at this school. The behaviour of a growing minority of pupils has become unruly, unkind and unsafe. Bullying is not dealt with well enough. Many pupils rightly told us that they feel very worried about coming to the school. There is not enough support for pupils’ personal development and well-being. Serious safeguarding concerns have not been acted on promptly enough.

“Frequent behaviour incidents, in class and out, disrupt daily life. Many pupils are scared to use communal areas. Incidents of violence and abuse, including fights between pupils, are increasing. Many pupils use homophobic language. Leaders have failed to deal with the situation. The behaviour policy is not effective, and staff do not implement it consistently. Sometimes, low-level behaviour escalates to become much more serious. Several staff told us that they feel unsafe. They are frustrated and disheartened, because leaders do not support them effectively.”

The issues at the Academy have primarily been blamed on poor direction from the School’s upper hierarchy, explaining the departure of both the former head and the governors.

Ofsted inspectors explained: “Leaders are hugely overstretched. Many are inexperienced in their roles. Not enough priority has been given to the leadership of safeguarding and pupils’ well-being. Leaders lack a precise understanding of the serious scale and nature of behaviour incidents. Important signs that pupils need help have been missed, because of a lack of communication.”

The Report rated the Academy ‘inadequate’ in the areas of quality of education, behaviour and attitude, personal development, as well as leadership and management. Sixth-form provision was the only area that was rated above ‘inadequate,’ though it was still labelled under ‘requires improvement.’

These rating represent a marked departure from Ofsted’s previous inspection in September 2016, which rated the School ‘good’ for the first time in its 12-year history.

The new IAB that now controls the School comprises four members, David Terry, the interim head, Paul James, the chief executive of the River Learning Trust, Tony Wilson, Director of Education for the Oxford Diocesan Board of Education, and Adam White, a lecturer at Oxford Brookes University.

In a statement, the IAB said: “The IAB brings a wealth of experience in creating outstanding schools and steering schools through difficult periods. During the last six weeks the IAB has taken decisive action to make rapid and sustainable improvements at the school.

“Also, River Learning Trust (RLT) has agreed in principle to welcome The Oxford Academy into its family of secondary and primary schools. The trust is working closely with the Department for Education with the aim that The Oxford Academy can join later this academic year. However, in practice, the school is now receiving the levels of expert support from RLT that it can expect when it formally becomes part of the trust.”

The RLT is a multi-academy trust responsible for the administration of a number of academies in the area, and holding them to government standards.

Since taking over, the IAB has enacted a review of safeguarding in response to Ofsted’s concerns, taking action to improve safety issues. A new pupil behaviour management strategy is now in place, while leadership team responsibilities have been reviewed. Another senior leader has joined the Academy to focus on improving attendance and the provision for vulnerable pupils.

Mr Wilson, who also serves as the Chair of the Interim Academy Board, said “At the start of January we appointed an experienced interim headteacher, Mr David Terry, with a track record of school improvement, as well as an interim deputy head with expertise in behaviour, personal development and safeguarding”.

Tony Wilson, Director of Education for the Oxford Diocesan Board of Education and Chair of the Interim Academy Board, said: “We are delighted with the impact he has already made in a short space of time. Immediate action was taken last year in response to the concerns identified by Ofsted, and we have already carried out a thorough review of safeguarding. Improving attendance of our vulnerable pupils, and our provision for them, has also been a key focus.

“Additional teaching and support staff have been hired to fill vacancies in maths, English, PE, languages and technology, which means we have been able to reduce the number of supply teachers used. New staff and existing staff are being given extra training with a focus on safeguarding, behaviour and the quality of teaching. Some of the staffing issues we have had to resolve have stemmed from poor governance and past decisions relating to a financial deficit at the academy in excess of £1m. This deficit is reducing and we are working with the Department for Education to resolve the issue and ensure a positive sustainable future for the academy.”

Mr Terry, who has experience in schools on special measures, told the Oxford Mail: “To some extent the report reflects the school as it was, and we have definitely moved on [since inspection]. It’s a much calmer environment on site. We are focusing on behaviour and a better clarity of expected behaviours. We have just had to say ‘no’ and be assertive, but to say it with love and care.”

The IAB is only temporary, with the Academy looking to appoint a permanent headteacher by end of March.

As an academy, the School is directly under the supervision and funding of the government in Westminster, rather than local authorities as other schools are.

Writing to Nick Gibb, the Minister of State for School Standards, Anneliese Dodds, the Labour and Co-Operative MP for Oxford East, has criticised the government’s role in the development of the academy system and the failings at the Oxford Academy.

“I do believe that the departure of the previous leaders and governors will signal a change at the school, and it was right for them to leave and take some responsibility after a series of failings. I am sure that teachers who remain at the school are working hard to ensure that it is a safe environment for their pupils.

“However, I am incredibly concerned that this situation ever arose in the first place. I am concerned not only for the students at this school, but for what this signifies about the wider academy system which enabled such an enormous failure.”

Concerns over children’s safety at the School only became public after Oxfordshire County Council notified Ofsted of the issues in November.

A spokesman for the Council said: “We acted immediately by sending staff with safeguarding expertise to support the school. The safety and welfare of children and young people are of paramount importance to the county council.

“The county council has no direct responsibility for school performance. We believe the former school leaders and governors of the school are accountable for the findings in the Ofsted report.”

Wes Beckett on the Coronavirus

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Hilary Term 2020, Issue 2

University ignore tribunal ruling on “discriminatory” retirement policy

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Oxford University has this week announced that it intends to continue enforcing a retirement policy which was ruled “highly discriminatory” by an employment tribunal last month.

The policy, titled the Employer Justified Retirement Age (EJRA), allows the University to force senior academics to retire once they reach the age of 68. Exceptions can be made to the policy in certain circumstances as determined by the University.

Oxford says that the EJRA is intended to “safeguard the high standards of the university,” and “promote equality and diversity.” The policy was highly controversial following its introduction in 2011, and last month an employment tribunal ruled that Paul Ewart, an academic at the Clarendon Laboratory who had been dismissed under the policy, had been unfairly discriminated against based on his age.

The University is now beginning the process of appealing this decision.

The ruling made by the tribunal was highly critical of Oxford University’s policy, saying: “There can hardly be a greater discriminatory effect in the employment field than being dismissed simply because you hold a particular protected characteristic.”

Over the course of the hearing the University, represented by Mr S. Jones QC, acknowledged that the EJRA did amount to direct age discrimination, but argued that such discrimination was justified and proportionate in the pursuit of legitimate aims. These include promoting access to employment for younger people, and sharing out employment opportunities fairly between generations. However, it was noted by the tribunal that measures to achieve these aims must be both necessary and appropriate. Mr Ewart made the case that while the aims of the policy, to enable the employment of younger staff and to improve diversity across the University, were legitimate, the EJRA was an ineffective means of achieving these goals.

In an article published in the Oxford University Magazine, Mr Ewart argued that the EJRA in its current form could only have a minimal effect on the University’s ability to create new posts for younger academics.

The article summarises that: “[The EJRA] forces retirement on a relatively small number of active academics whilst making no significant progress towards achieving the aim.”

Paul Ewart told Cherwell: “The university’s decision to appeal is disappointing and a missed opportunity to revisit the controversial EJRA policy. The Tribunal decision follows two rulings, by very senior judges, in the university’s own Appeal Court that also found the policy to be unjustified and unlawful. The Tribunal in my case had the benefit of statistical argument and data to quantify the extent to which the policy could achieve its aims by creating vacancies. The university sought to have this evidence excluded from the Tribunal but the judge found it to be a crucial argument. It shows that the ‘heavily discriminatory’ policy could have only a ‘trivial’ effect on creating vacancies and therefore can never be proportionate. If it cannot be proportionate it cannot be lawful. The university succeeded in having this crucial evidence excluded from the case of Professor Pitcher. The university has adopted an inconsistent position. It accepted the Tracey report on the working of the EJRA in 2017 that told Congregation, without any supporting evidence, that the policy was making a ‘substantial contribution’ to achieving the aims. It then told both Employment Tribunals that it was too soon to tell if it was having any effect! This, in my opinion, is deeply dishonest. The university is insisting on carrying on with the policy for a full ten-year trial period to find some justification for it. The Tribunal, however, ruled that there is no provision in the Equality Act for operating a policy on an ‘experimental or trial basis’, it must be justified ‘right from the start’ – and the university has failed to do that. It is defying the law. It has so far spent in the region of one million pounds defending the EJRA both internally and externally. It is intent on spending more money by appealing. It will have to spend more as some other academics are currently in the process of making similar Employment Tribunal claims. One has to ask if this is a proper use of a Charity’s funds. The waste of money is one thing but the policy also wastes the valuable resource of active, world leading, academics who are dismissed when they could continue to contribute for the benefit of young and old.”

A spokesperson for Oxford University said: “The University has now reviewed in detail the Employment Tribunal decision regarding Professor Paul Ewart and Oxford’s EJRA policy. This decision followed an earlier Employment Tribunal, on a separate case but of equal legal weighting, which ruled in favour of the Oxford EJRA. The University has decided it does not accept the most recent tribunal’s ruling and will be appealing against it. The EJRA policy remains in place and will continue to be applied as normal.”

The result of Mr Ewart’s employment tribunal seemed to contradict the ruling made in a similar case brought by Professor John Pitcher, formerly an academic at St John’s College. The case, which was brought by Mr Pitcher in August 2019, was dismissed in an employment tribunal, as judges found that the enforcement of the EJRA was a proportionate means of the University increasing diversity in their workforce.

Only Cambridge University and St Andrew’s University operate similar EJRA policies in the UK, both forcing senior academics to retire before the age of 68. Cambridge’s policy applies to all University Officers, but makes an exception for the Chancellor, the High Steward, the Deputy High Steward, and the Commissary.

Dons throw toys from pram

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Senior figures in Oxford admissions have criticised the University’s attempts to broaden access, alleging their efforts represent discrimination against candidates from more affluent backgrounds by making them less likely to receive an offer.

Criticism has centred on the University’s aim to increase their intake of disadvantaged students from the current 15% to 25% by 2023, as well as tutors being asked to interview more state school applicants.

A source high up in University admissions told The Sunday Telegraph: “The instructions we received were that we had to interview them as long as they met very basic standards – and some even failed those.

“My experience is that those candidates just don’t do very well. We call them to interview because we have to.

“They just do really badly and we reject them and it’s a waste of everyone’s time. But if this target of 25% is going to be met, we will have to start admitting some of these people.”

The source suggested that admitting students from disadvantaged backgrounds would mean students from upper- and middleclass background will be “unjustly discriminated against on the basis of their social class.

“This almost certainly will mean they will be let in at the expense of middle class students, who will have to make way for candidates who are not as academically talented as they are.”

The source said most colleagues “see no problem” with the University’s access drive, stating “almost everyone is willing to go along with it quite enthusiastically.”

Increasing criticism of the University’s admissions policy comes after last week’s announcement that Oxford made more than 69% of its undergraduate offers this year to students attending state schools, an increase of 4.6% on the previous year and a record high.

A spokesman for Oxford University rejected the criticism, saying: “Our admissions process is designed to identify academic potential and passion for a subject.

A highly academically talented student with enthusiasm for their chosen subject has every chance of getting into oxford, regardless of background, and will continue to do so.”

As part of future access initiatives, the University will start a new scheme in 2023 which will enable 250 state school students (including refugees and young carers) to receive free tuition and accommodation at Oxford during the summer.

Of these, 50 students will be eligible receive offers “made on the basis of lower contextual A-level grades, rather than the university’s standard offers.”

A second source in University admissions further emphasised that giving more offers to pupils from disadvantaged backgrounds would result in more middle-class candidates failing to gain a place, as the most affluent would still receive the same approximate number of places, an argument that the University rejects.

The source said: “The Vice Chancellor is on the hook now, she is really out on one with this pledge. It is pretty stark.

The dial has got to move quite a long way. We are not like Bristol and Exeter who can hit their numbers [of disadvantaged students] simply by expanding by about 500 places a year and worrying about beds later. “That’s not going to happen at Oxbridge, our system doesn’t work like that with the constraints on college size. It’s got to be done at the expense of the middle class kids.”

Independent school heads, allegedly, “can see the writing on the wall” are becoming increasingly worried over the University’s direction on access and admissions. “My biggest fear is we will end up polarised. We will still take them in heaps from the Etons and Westminsters. And what gets squeezed out in the middle, the heads who used to send us two or three a year get squeezed out.”

The University has remained steadfast against criticism, maintaining its push to broaden access for the foreseeable future. Strategies such as UNIQ, a programme targeted at lower income groups, will continue to expand, after 250 participants were offered places at Oxford this year.

For those who took part in last year’s programme, the offer rate stood at 33.6%, compared to 21.5% for applicants who had not participated. The University expanded participation in UNIQ by 50% last year, taking in 1,350 pupils.

Dr Samina Khan, Director of Undegraduate Admissions and Outreach at Oxford, said, following the University’s announcement on offers last week: “We know that students from some backgrounds are not as wellrepresented at Oxford as they should be, and we are determined that this should change.

“Having taught in state schools during my career, I know the wealth of talent that lies there. We wish the students every success in their studies, and hope they flourish at Oxford.”

Review: Don Giovanni

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Premiered in 1787 in Prague and in the Habsburg court in Vienna, Mozart’s Don Giovanni offered a biting social comedy. Breathing new life into a tired folktale of the legendary lecher, the comic opera is a whirlwind snapshot of the crumbling feudal order,and a satiric take on the foibles and violations of the feudal aristocracy. With an eye to a “reinvigorated” modern retelling, the Oxford Alternative Orchestra, headed by the ever-formidable Hannah Schneider, offersan accessible and thoroughly enjoyable performance.

We open at the scene of Don Giovanni’s attempted break-in and rape of Donna Anna, who murders her father. What follows is the attempted continuation of this ‘master lecher’s’ adventures, a series of attempted botched ‘seductions’ and run-ins with an abandoned former ‘conquest’. Narrowly avoiding former lovers and the odd lynching attempt, his luck runs out as he invites the shade of his victim the Commendatore to dinner. Unrepentant and unwilling to reform himself, he is torn to shreds and dragged into hell.

Dominating the Opera are the performances of Donna Anna (Holly Brown) and Donna Elvira (Beatrice Acland). The two female leads balance one another and complement the dual roles of the abandoned and psychologically tortured lover and the furious coloratura. Acland delivers a compelling portrait of the abandoned lover and tragic figure of Elvira. Heropening aria vowing vengeance to track down her lovercontrasts her performance shortly before the Don’s timely end. Over the course of the Opera her character is worn down and ruined with the pressures of honour, the cruel torments of the Don;she ends on her knees before him, pleading for both his love and reform. Brown is the picture of retribution and wrath;far from being the Don’s victim, she pursues him relentlessly throughout marshalling her lover and the whole village to bring him to justice.

The two–together with Zerlina and the interaction with their lovers following their run-ins with the don–reflect the insidiousness around sexual assault. Relationships threaten to be torn apart;the women are branded as mistaken, liars and whores, especially when challenged “by the word of a Gentleman”. Though the love arias of Ottavio (Dalla sua Pace/ on her own peace depends my own), charmingly sung by Alex Gebhard, the gaping distance between the two and the caveat “I must either disabuse her or avenge her” make apparent the limits of female agency and the relationship between Ottavio and Anna,especially her dependency on his believing her to secure her revenge.

As for the Don and his hapless servant, Charles Styles and Chris Murphy are an engaging and rakish duo. On the surface is the ‘charm’ of a Lothario,with the comic asides and improbable lines“I can smell woman”, “Such is my generous love, I have space for all women in my heart”. Styles is a commanding presence playing the burnt-out cad, defiant to the end. My personal favourite, though, isLeporello, with his endearing commentary on the state of affairs and his master. He is quite the sad figure, although claiming to be there for the money and occasionally pleading with his master to reform himself, he is in the end as much a victim and watered-own copy of his master.

I am quite fond of the traditional heavy bass of the Commendatore, and while the woollyand smooth baritone of Peter Steer did confuse me at first, it is a pleasing alternative.  Backed by the thundering trombones and minor chords of the final dialogue, he finishes the job splendidly while commanding a posse of demons to drag Don Giovanni to his grisly end.

It could be argued that the wartime set chafed with the opera somewhat, the modern element not being wholly emphasised, yet symbolically the set assists with the overall arc of this contemporary retelling. Where the Don Giovanni myth as said by Adorno depicts “the summit of a pass between two eras”, the triumph of bourgeoise morality works in contrast to hollow noble licentiousness. Instead this may be said to reflect the unchanged and corrupt state of moral affairs. Mozart set out to satirise and subvert, showing a changed order- nobles being brought to heel for their crimes and the ideal of equal love between mankind.

For a mainly student-based production, this is a talented and intelligent take on what is sometimes a stale staple of the repertoire.

A Tale of Two Department Stores

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It is both the best and worst of times for the complex relationship between retail, ethical/sustainable clothing production, and technology. A staggering number of stores that were everyday go-tos have either shuttered their doors or massively scaled back their operations due to the convenience of online alternatives and an inability to keep pace with the ever-accelerating rate of change within the fashion world. Simultaneously, the intersection of technology and fashion allows bloggers, influencers, and online style updates to democratize the industry with their own editorials and introduce unique perspectives. While e-commerce requires fleets of gas-guzzling trucks to deliver packages wrapped in cardboard, fortified in bubble wrap, and sealed in plastic, there are a number of designers who combat this aspect of online retail through sustainable manufacturing. They actively work to minimize their environmental footprint and to better serve their community, often making ethical production a component of their platform. Nowhere is the crossover between eco-conscious operations and technology in fashion better exemplified than the divergent trends of Barneys New York and Neighborhood Goods. Although the two department stores might have been merely forty blocks away from one another, they operate(d) with very different agendas. 

In August, Barneys New York filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy with over $100 million in debt. Among Barneys’ main financial woes were significant rent increases and a decline in sales. If Manhattan could be encapsulated in a store, then Barneys was the place: dazzling ensembles assembled with the speed of a Wall Street trade; the store’s unapologetic luxury and trendsetting style served as a sartorial symbol for the city itself. Once a department store that led the vanguard for fashion in the United States (introducing Americans to the likes of Armani, Azzedine Alaia, Christian Louboutin, and Commes des Garçons), in recent years, Barneys lagged in terms of innovation and in response to evolving consumers tastes. With the fall of one of Manhattan’s most cherished brick and mortar retailers, technology claimed another fashion victim. Barneys was not alone. In 2019, Forever 21 declared bankruptcy, Karen Millen closed all of its stores (Boohoo Group acquired the online business rights to the label and its designs can be found exclusively on the web), Debenhams closed 22 stores, Topshop closed all of its US stores, and L.K. Bennett closed 15 stores. The jobs lost due to these closures are just one significant impact of the tech-fashion relationship.

Online luxury providers Net-A-Porter and Moda Operandi afford consumers access to sustainably and ethically produced merchandise and constant fashion updates through newsletters (Net-A-Porter features Porter and Moda Operandi provides The Edit). In addition, their content is available to consumers in one de-centralized forum for fashion, allowing for price comparison and increase in optionality. Although Barneys, too, was a one-stop-shop for fashion’s biggest names, the department store could not showcase an entire outfit assembled on one model as did its online competitors nor did it meet the demand for ecology-conscious fashion. Net-A-Porter is entirely fur-free while Barneys had a fur salon; The RealReal enables customers to uncover consignment items with the same designer appeal as Barneys’ merchandise but for less. Furthermore, unlike the de-centralized shopping atmosphere of the internet, Barneys was situated in affluent neighborhoods, which precluded any possibility of an egalitarian realm for browsing and potential purchasing. These same retail locations that took such a grave toll on its earnings (in January of 2019, the rent of Barneys’ Madison Avenue flagship jumped from $16 million to $30 million) hindered the retailer’s ability to stock the latest season’s merchandise and return profit to its vendors, underserving the elite to whom they expressly catered and the fashion community of which they considered themselves apart. Even when Barneys set up shop in Downtown New York City in 2016 to update their image, the store was still unable to shake the stigma of elitism that influencers and online retailers alike – whether luxury, streetwear, or a combination of the two – have defied. 

If 2019, claimed more high-profile victims in traditional retail, the sustainability crisis in mass-market online retail also came to the fore. The rise of Instagram influencers demands fast and frequent turnover of fashion lines so that a social media personality’s content is most up to date with trends. No brand is more recognized for rapid merchandise output than Fashion Nova, whose garments are stitched together by a workforce paid “illegally low wages” according to The New York Times. The new normal for fast-fashion brands of producing anywhere from 12-24 lines a year not only means that more artisan retailers scramble to keep pace with the ever-changing trends but that working conditions are sub-par, countless items are shipped using planes, trains, and automobiles every day, cheaper materials that leave a severe carbon footprint (like polyester) are employed, and vast amounts of surplus clothing are landfilled. In fact, Business Insider reports that “the equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second.” Yet, as options for the all-in-one shopping experience that the High Street and department stores provide dwindle, consumers are driven to fast fashion brands that cater to social media demands but exploit workers and pollute the environment.

International demand for ethical and sustainable manufacturing has begun to give rise to corporate accountability. Until recently, one might have included Zara in the list of retail titans without an environmental conscience. While Vox reports that the company has undeniably damaged its surrounding biomes and paid its workers sub-poverty wages, Zara’s parent company, Inditex, announced in July that they would employ 100% sustainable cotton and 100% recycled polyester and have 80% renewable energy in all of their facilities before 2025. Although this in no way compensates for the past havoc the brand has wreaked upon the environment, it does pressure other fast-fashion brands to improve upon their environmental footprint – if for no other reason than customers will look elsewhere if companies do not conduct themselves along the lines of a more ecologically conscious code. 

Better still, certain smaller brands instill conscious production into their culture from inception. Unable to find quality outerwear that was both well insulated and animal friendly, James Yurichuk, founder of Wuxly and Canada native, designed his parkas that use “military-grade PrimaLoft Gold Insulation that outperform traditional down-filled outerwear.” The brand is Peta-certified, produced locally in Canada, and made of long-lasting and entirely recyclable materials. A more well-known eco-friendly label is Reformation. Although, the brand provides style at a slightly higher price point than most fast fashion outlets, ethical and sustainable production has been a cornerstone of the brand’s platform since its founding and remains inextricably linked to its popularity. For example, 100% of the workers in their LA factory earn “living wage,” shoppers are provided with a Refscale that breaks down the environmental impact of each item, and the label’s packaging is comprised of 100% consumer waste materials. Understanding that environmental awareness is a priority for their clientele, Reformation also sends an email to customers at the close of the year with the amount of water, carbon dioxide, and waste shoppers have saved with their purchased items.

Enter Neighborhood Goods. A new department store with a new mission. Neighborhood Goods has two locations: a flagship in Plano, Texas outside Dallas (a state and city synonymous with oil and gas) and a store in Chelsea Market, New York (a neighborhood market that houses food stands with a global view, small artisan shops, and vintage spots). On their web page, the store has a section called “Stories,” in which they spotlight sustainably and ethically conscious brands. One of these is Emory Bee that sources sustainable and vegan fabrics to fabricate classically tailored and youthful silhouettes. The store even fosters its own social network of sorts by investing in communities, featuring its own employees’ style preferences and goals for 2020 on their website (as Goop has done), and creating a forum for joint experience through their boutiques. It hosts events that range from cooking classes to yoga lessons to trunk shows and works to make its spaces inviting: in the New York store, there is a healthy-minded café, Tiny Feast, and an aesthetically tantalizing lifestyle section in which there is an entire corner dedicated to Taschen gems. Neighborhood Goods writes: “We’re reshaping the notion of department stores and physical retail to foster a new culture around shopping and the experiences therein. We’re building beautiful, social spaces, featuring amazing food, drinks, events, live speakers, and more.”

While the era of traditional luxury in-store shopping represented by Barneys New York may be coming to close, a new department store experience that can both meet the ever-shifting landscape of social media fashion and take on ethical and sustainable goals takes its place. Neighborhood Goods places its finger to the wind and shape-shifts its approach to style based on the consumer and not the other way around. Whether in Plano, Texas or in Chelsea Market, one enters an atmosphere of inclusivity with the understanding that store items have been carefully curated. They are displayed on the floor because they look fantastic and, better yet, are fantastic for the environment.

Modi’s India: Division Over Democracy

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“If we all get together, there won’t be a detention centre big enough for us. Maybe there will be a day when this government will be in a detention centre, and all of us azad (free). We won’t back down,” shouts Arundhati Roy, Booker prize-winning author, outside of Delhi’s Jamia Milia Islamia University.

For months, protests have erupted across India over a new citizenship law: the Citizenship Amendment Act (CAA). The act, which allows the expedited citizenship of migrants who have fled from neighbouring countries, has brought scores of people to the streets to challenge its prejudice against Muslims. Protestors reciting the preambles of the Indian constitution across the country contend the CAA works to demote Muslims to second class citizens, contrary to India’s promise of justice, equality and fraternity. Demonstrations have been met with harsh police crackdowns and resulted in international outcry; it appears to all that the sanctity of human rights has been cast aside in the world’s largest democracy.

On the eve of India’s May Election, the Oxford Union held a No Confidence debate on the Indian Government. The overwhelming ruling was that Narendra Modi’s Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) inspires little confidence for the fate for civil liberties in India. I was asked to speak in defense of Modi – a young, Pakistani student (though the Internet insists I am a 29 year old British-Pakistani diplomat) finding a new perspective from which to defend Pakistan’s number one enemy.

The response to my debate was inconceivable: Sound-bites of my speech reached Indian media channels , omitting any criticism of this political pariah’s human rights record. I still receive messages today from young BJP supporters who thank me for telling the world that Modi is not an evil-Muslim hating villain, but instead a Hindu hero. The most uncomfortable element from these floods messages, above personal comments on my appearance and mannerisms, was undoubtedly the sheer commitment and belief that Modi was ‘doing the right thing’.

As the months have rolled by, it seems the Indian nation has been glaringly confronted with the realties of Narendra Modi – behind populist rhetoric remains a real challenge to the secular, democratic nation India has always aimed to be.

So who is the the man behind this transformation? Narendra Modi’s BJP was re-elected with a landslide victory in May. However, entering their second term in office, Modi’s Hindutva (Hindu nationalism) policies continue to sow the seeds of division within Indian politics. Antithetical to Nehru and Gandhi’s wish for secularism in the state of India, the BJP asserts the importance of a superior, Hindu identity.

Grown out of the ranks of the right-wing, nationalist, paramilitary organisation of the RSS, Modi gained notoriety as the Chief Minister of Gujarat in 2002. During his tenure, Modi presided over a mass communal bloodletting that left two-thousand people dead and the demography of the province irrevocably changed. Reports saw mobs of Hindus yelling ‘Take revenge and slaughter the muslims!’, as eyewitness accounts testify to mass-rape, the dismemberment of pregnant Muslim women, and one elderly member of the opposition party – the Indian Congress – paraded naked and set on fire. Many of the surviving Muslims were corralled into slums and remain in ghettoes, such as the Ahmedabad dump, today. As Chief Minister, Modi was accused of turning a blind eye to the religiously-motivated riots, resulting in a nearly decade long ban on travel to the US and UK.

Yet, apologies from Modi were far and few between, as he expanded his Hindu nationalist base whilst simultaneously taking on more palatable policies for the West and the average Indian. Modi’s bravery in confronting previously un-confronted policies such as public defection and male responsibility for gang-rape allowed his party to soar to the top – winning his first national election in 2014. Elected on a platform of economic stability (as his term in Gujarat was under relative prosperity) and sectarianism, Modi has actively worked to change the secular ethos of India. The controversial CAA and its equally worrying relative, the National Register of Citizens (NRC) are the latest of many policies to do so. 

The NRC is a register maintained by the Indian government containing the identification of citizens residing in the state of Assam. Beginning as a project to identify illegal immigrants within the state, the NRC requires residents to procure land deeds, birth certificates, and other documents to prove their lineage within the country. India’s Home Minister, and Modi’s righthand man, Amit Shah, declared in November that the NRC will be implemented across the country. In Assam, around 2 million individuals failed these citizenship tests – many of them Muslim.

Documents of this sort prove hard to supply, particularly in rural, impoverished areas. For women, the task is made even more difficult. In the region of Goroimari, none of the twelve required documents were available to large numbers of local women. Birth by midwives in rural areas complicates the prospects of having a viable birth certificate. Likewise, marriage registration is infrequent due to large numbers of underage marriages, and women often do not possess property under their own name. As one woman told The Wire in November, “My father’s name is in the 1951 NRC. My brother used the same legacy data of my father and is in the final NRC but I am out…My name was also not in the final draft. When I was called for re-verification, I gave my paternal family’s ration card where I am mentioned as my father’s daughter. Yet, I am out of the NRC.”

The fate of those deemed stateless is dire. Reports say there are destined to be sent to detention camps such as one in Karnataka. Though government officials stress the construction of these detention centres is unrelated to the NRC, anxiety over Assam’s citizenship tests has driven many, including a Muslim veteran of the Indian army, to suicide.

Hindus were not excluded from the NRC, a large number of immigrant Bengali Hindus (a large BJP voter faction) were deemed illegal as well. This was almost a strong defensive to Modi’s assertion that his policies are entirely above-the-line, yet, for those originally unlucky Hindus, fate has taken a different course with the passing of the CAA. The CAA and the NRC taken in tandem highlight the calculated and systemic destruction of Muslim rights. At face value, the CAA seems to take on humanitarian form: it allows for migrants who fled religious persecution in neighbouring states a fast-track to citizenship in the haven that could be India. In reality, underneath the noble façade lies a corruption of the very ideal: all religions are welcome, ‘all’ except followers of Islam.

The Modi government’s defence is simple: the neighbouring countries (Pakistan, Afghanistan, Bangladesh etc.) are Muslim majority countries, so those fleeing from persecution will enviably be non-Muslim. However, Modi’s government conveniently casts aside the existence of Uighurs fleeing China, Rohyingas trekking across Bangladesh, and Ahmadis leaving Pakistan. All are Muslims sects that are continuously being persecuted and in need of asylum abroad, all are denied sympathy in the CAA. The CAA seen intertwined with the NRC paints an even more insidious picture: those excluded from the citizenship registry can seek recourse to stay in India through the CAA – unless they are Muslim.

At the face of criticism and the eruption of protests, Modi tweeted: “We in India are deeply motivated by Gandhi Ji’s emphasis on duties in addition to rights.” Through this, he attempts to take the focus away from the blatant destruction of civil liberties. He stressed to the protestors that duty to the state is more important, but he fails to realise that the protestors are demonstrating precisely out of this duty. Recitations of the constitution, chants of the national anthem and millions of raised Indian flags signal that this is a question of patriotism for the Indian people. But the question remains, will Modi be able to enforce his ‘duty’ over the Indian nation’s rights?

Students at Indian universities appear to be the standard bearers against the BJP’s Hindutva policies. Nightmarish clashes in the Jawaharlal Nehru University (JNU), the Jamia Millia Islamia (JMI), and the Aligarh Muslim University (AMU), have turned these bastions for the protection of civil liberties into battlefields.

Peaceful protests have been met with harsh counter-measures, many of which, including police brutality are entirely extraconstitutional. At an encounter at JMI, five brave women were recorded on a widely disseminated video defending an unarmed male student against police officers beating him with wooden sticks. A history professor at the institute writes: “in the middle of December, Delhi police tried to shut down protests against the religiously discriminatory Citizenship Amendment Act by canning Muslim students into submission.”

In January, an attack on JNU saw the failure of the Delhi police, not through action, but inaction. Masked men carrying sticks, rods and glass bottles entered the building in the early evening injuring 18 students and a professor. The students believe these men belonged to the ABVP, a right-wing student organisation linked to the aforementioned Hindunationalist RSS. Aishe Ghosh, JNU’s student union leader, suffered serious injuries to her head, while the police remained absent. India Today reported that Ghosh alerted the police of the masked men at 3.00 p.m. but they did not send reinforcement until 7.45 p.m.

Cross currents of information, insults slung across the aisle, and denial of the victim’s trauma by the BJP has marked the event in the Subcontinent’s psyche. To make matters worse, following the events, the police identified a multitude of suspects: one of which is Ghosh, whom ABVP members claim organised the entire occasion. Ghosh, who still sustains injuries from the attack, refutes the charges and states that the Delhi police should make public whatever proof they claim to have.

Students across the world stand in solidarity with those in India fighting for their freedoms. Protests spanning the world from Los Angeles to Karachi show that the South Asian diaspora and beyond are committed to make the world see the atrocities occurring in Modi’s India. Right here in Oxford, on the 26th of January students will convene to celebrate India’s Republic Day with a demonstration against the CAA, NRC and its extension. When asked what drove the organisation of the protest, Gurmehar Kaur answered: “Imagine if the police were to walk in our campus here at Oxford and start manhandling students, throwing teargas shells in the libraries, breaking down windows and physically assaulting students – how abnormal would that be? We organised the protest to register our dissent so this kind of assault by the state on its university students is not normalised back in our countries. As students here, most of us have previously been students in the same spaces in India that are now under threat by the Modi government, we have a responsibility to stand in solidarity with our student fraternity.” Evidently, there are strong forces fighting for safety of civil liberties in India across the globe.

With that said, violent encounters in Assam have taken on a different, more brutal expression. The Northeast provinces presents a bleak reality of true division underneath those fighting for unity. In Assam, the issue of illegal immigrants fuelled protests for years in the early 1980s, partially dirven by citizens realised a swing in voting was in direct accordance with the large numbers of Bangladesh immigrants, who fled from oppression in East Pakistan. 

Much of Assam welcomed the NRC, and saw it as a chance to rid the state of illegal immigrants who had come in within that period. The CAA, on the other hand, is seen as a betrayal of the governments commitment to shed the burden of the ‘illegals’: they worry it, instead, opens the floodgates to hundreds of thousands of Bangladeshi immigrants burdening the resources and threatening Assamese language, culture and recourses. Assam appears to care less about the exclusion of Muslims: they simply want no one else to enter, be it Hindus, Muslims or otherwise. Nativist sentiments ride high in the loudest protests against the CAA – a worrying dimension of the patriotic backlash against the BJP.

In this vein, human rights seem to be in an expedited decay. Protests are still met with police brutality, internet shutdowns (India is the world’s leader in number of internet shutdowns last year) and the enforcement of colonial-era Section 144 of the Criminal Procedure Code. The antiquated Section 144 makes it illegal for more than four people to gather in one place, and has been instated by Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath, to crush dissent.

India is torn in between true democracy and exclusionary rhetoric. Communalist weeds, alongside a heightened drawbridge approach to immigration, continue to spawn and challenge the secular, liberal framework Nehru-era Indians aspired to.

Not all hope is lost: Modi has attempted to suggest that the protestors are aggravated seditionist Muslims, but there are many beaming examples of inter-religious solidarity. Protests at the heart of Delhi in Shahida Bagh illustrate a multi-faith consensus, where ”Sikhs did their kirtan, Muslims offered namaz and Hindus performed a havan, all at the same time, to say that the protest against the CAA and the impending National Register of Citizens is not a religious one at all”, as The Wire reports.

The Indian Supreme Court is set to rule on the legitimacy of the CAA later in January, but as it stands, some lower courts reflect the sentiment of a secular, democratic India. In the bail hearing for one protest organiser, Bhim Army Chief Chandrashekhar Azad, this sentiment shone through. At the face of the prosecutor denying the permission of the defendant to protest, the Tis Hazari Sessions Judge Kamini La stated:“What permission? The Supreme Court has said repeated use of Section 144 is abuse. I have seen many people, many such cases, where protests happened even outside Parliament. Some of those people are now senior politicians, chief ministers.”

Moreover, some evidence shows the BJP appears to be losing its hold over the Indian public, as trouble over the CAA and a sinking economy shows a supposed reversal in the popularity that won them the landslide in May. The loss over state elections in Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Chhattisgarh, Maharashtra and Jharkhand signal a challenge for the BJP and their sectarian policies.

The constitution-chanting protestors, many of them young, working class, some female, show an India that is slowing pulling together the canyons created by the BJP and their divisive politics. Glimmers of hope underneath the overwhelming sense of despair at the state of India’s democracy do shine through, but the fact remains that this may not be enough. Every second day, another message from an Indian man fascinated by the Oxford Union’s politics forces me to doubt that India is close to the reckoning required. As we wait for the Supreme Court’s ruling on the CAA, Modi and the BJP reside over a humanitarian crisis. India – one of the most populous nations and the largest democracy in the world – is set to enter the later half of the century as a superpower. Yet, as it moves from developing to developed, the necessities of true democracy cannot be ignored. All of the Indian people must commit to patriotism and love for their country in a unifying, not divisive, manner. 

150 years of rugby at Oxford

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Oxford rugby dates back to the sports infancy. As many will know, the Oxford University RFC is one of the most renowned amateur clubs in the world. It was founded in November 1869, over a year before the start of the Rugby Football Union’s creation, the governing body for rugby in England. This highlights the tradition of the sport at Oxford, demonstrating the key role that the university has had in its popularity. 

OURFC has witnessed the various changes that have been made to the game in the last 125 years. William Web Ellis, a student at Brasenose College in 1825, is thought to be the inventor of the sport. This view comes down to his disregard for the rules of football as a student at Rugby school in 1823. According to legend, he lifted the football up and ran with it, thereby constituting the characteristic movement of the sport. This is why the international committee named the rugby world cup the “William Webb Ellis Trophy”. The notoriety of the sport travelled quickly from Rugby to Oxford and Cambridge. The first university match was played in 1872. From there, graduates took the sport to other British schools which eventually allowed it to grow to an international level. 

Since 1869, there have been over 300 Oxford rugby players who have gained representative international honours. Among them are many famous players coming from the university: Phil de Glanville (former English rugby union player), Joe Roff (Australian rugby union footballer), Anton Oliver (former New Zealand rugby union player), Simon Halliday (former English rugby union international), Gareth Baber (former Welsh Rugby footballer), David Kirk (former New Zealand rugby union player; won the Rugby World Cup) and Rob Egerton (Australian international rugby union player; he won 9 caps for the Wallabies in the space of 13 weeks) to name a few. These examples testify to the tradition and power of rugby at Oxford. 

It would be wrong to neglect mentioning the genesis of women’s rugby at Oxford, which began in 1988. Since then, annual matches have been held against Cambridge University WRUFC. The 20 Varsity victories in comparison to the 13 from the opposition speak to the strength and capacity of the women’s team. In 2015, the OUWRFC joined up with the OURFC to become the ‘Oxford University Rugby Club’. Sue Day (former England captain; has won 59 England caps) and Heather Lawrence (founder of women’s rugby at Oxford) are just two examples of notable players coming from the women’s side.

To sum up, Oxford University is a breeding ground for Rugby talent. 150 years not only marks a triumph for the university, but also for the sport, attesting to the interconnected relationship that they share. Here’s to many more years of rugby at Oxford, with the hope that sporting legends will continue to be fostered in the place where the sport truly took off. 

Review: Dustin Lynch’s Tullahoma

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After an initial scan through the track-list for Tennessee-born country artist Dustin Lynch’s Tullahoma, you could be forgiven for presuming this is going to be a fairly standard, perhaps even predictable, country album. With names like ‘Momma’s House’, ‘Dirt Road’, and ‘Little Town Livin’’, the songs set the scene for this interpretation pretty well.

Or so you think. It’s clear from the very moment that the first chorus hits that the album isn’t going to be all back-porch sunsets and whiskey-shooting Friday nights. The album opener, ‘Momma’s House’ is a stormy cry of anguish, with Lynch blinking back the tears as he confesses he would burn his hometown down just to erase the memories made with his ex-lover, if it wasn’t for his ‘Momma’s House’. It could easily sound spiteful and bitter, but instead Lynch delivers it with a sense of complete emotional accountability, and as listeners we cannot help but be drawn in.

‘Little Town Livin’’ and ‘Dirt Road’ tread a more typical country path, following the blueprint that gave Lynch his first number ones with songs like ‘Cowboys and Angels’ and ‘She Cranks My Tractor’. The whole album is a tribute to Lynch’s hometown Tullahoma, and it happily meanders like the Mississippi river through small-town tales of falling in love under the stars, driving an old truck down quiet backroads, and cracking open a cold one with your friends. This wistful imagery, coupled with our storyteller’s raw emotion and charismatic drawl, forms the charming and picturesque backbone to the album.

However, underneath the familiar scenery and ear-worm hooks characteristic of Country music, there’s a certain depth and sincerity that makes Tullahoma especially endearing. He reaches back to tales from his past and present with a sense of vulnerability and honesty that’s hard to come by nowadays. This is especially evident in the way that he displays the movie-moment he had when reconnecting with an old flame on ‘Thinkin’ Bout You’:“Don’t be sorry for calling me up right out of the blue/I was just thinking bout you.” a song on which American Idol runner-up Lauren Alaina adds a striking second verse. He tips his stetson to the greats that influenced him on ‘Old Country Song’: “I’m gonna love you like George Jones loved to drink/Like Johnny loved some June”

Despite not being one of the lead singles, ‘The World Ain’t Yours and Mine’ is a standout. It’s a classic ode to an undying love, with Lynch finding himself planning to keep the relationship in question going until the end of time – until “The world ain’t yours and mine/Like it is tonight”. Part of the allure of country music is the way that it is able to tell a story that evolves into a beautiful, lucid picture over the course of three or four minutes, and Lynch has an eye for detail that adds great colour to his songs. He sings the touching motif, “The paint on the Pontiac’s faded/Got me thinking baby maybe we’ll make it”

The other key ingredient that should go into a good country album is, I believe, to have a happy ending. On his vivid and rich road-trip through through Tullahoma Lynch certainly provides, completing it on a high note. ‘Country Star’ is a joyful tribute to his girlfriend, model Kelli Seymour, before he closes the album with the loved-up and heartfelt ‘Good Girl’ “Still can’t believe I found you/Can’t imagine life without you”.

Lynch is a maestro at lulling his listeners into a false sense of security: taking them down the country lanes that they are used to before infusing what he knows best with refreshing R&B tinges and subtle experimentation. There is an overwhelming theme of nostalgia, but the mood is generally uplifting and heartwarming, carried by his lyrics that are saturated with emotion. The fact that this project opens with the angst of ‘Momma’s House’ only serves to intensify the sense of jubilance as we see Lynch move on from bitter heartbreak to ending the album content and in love.

The setting for Lynch’s new record is his beloved hometown of Tullahoma, but the emotional palette the country hitmaker draws upon is so eclectic and kaleidoscopic that you don’t have to be from Tennessee, the US, or even the countryside to find something in this album that really resonates. The language that Lynch speaks is a universal one, and leaves his listeners with a feeling of much-appreciated optimism.